If This fix doesnt work and you need a reliable and certified Safe technician, check www.savta.org/ and do a search there. Here is a link to a commenter that appears to be a trustworthy safe professional, If you re in Illinois, he is worth calling, www.hkssystems.com/ He also has a great youtube channel ua-cam.com/channels/MI4ciEEB5pBidM--SEndtg.html
Jose, you are a life saver and a safe saver. I had looked on UA-cam shortly after the keypad on my Winchester safe quit working about two years ago. I didn't find anything that would help. Just recently, I looked again and found your video. On your recommendation, I went directly to eBay and purchased one of the 5715SC keypads. It arrived today, June 18, 2024 and I was beside myself trying to get it installed. In a word, Perfect. Thank you, Jose!!
I learned an easy way to open my Winchester gun safe without a combination of drilling. I then noticed this same design flaw is on way too many safes. I hate to post it and inspire someone to rob a safes contents. I'd recommend if your safe has the code reset button on the inside of the door (the side of the door facing the hinges) to spend 10 mins and move it to a spot inside the safe.
Joe, I recently viewed your video on how you fixed the safe that you display in this video. For the last few years I had been having problems opening my Cannon Safe and I had been playing with the idea of contacting a lock smith to come fix my safe. I viewed your video several times and then I went ahead and took off the key pad on my safe and checked the internal wiring, and found that it looked just as the one in your old key pad. I went ahead an ordered a new key pad, the LaGard 5715SC through Ebay, the Kingman Security Group in Upland, Ca., and it arrived within two days. I installed the new key pad as you instructed and it works like a charm. Thank you for taking the time to make this video, you saved me some big bucks, Thanks Again!!
You're the man! I had a safe that was locked and wouldn't open, and decided to purchase a new keypad before calling a locksmith and getting it drilled out. Pulling the ribbon from the keypad that was inserted on the external circuit board, and plugging the new keypad ribbon into the same circuit board did the trick! You're a life saver!
I am stunned your electronic lock actually lasted 20 years. I can't even keep count of the horror stories I have read about as well as first hand accounts of failed electronic safe locks. Good video.
I think the key to that was his safe was 20 years old and everything is worse and worst quality As It Gets newer and newer. Stuff manufactured now probably won't last two years.
@@DConstructiveCritic I read about these things failing so often, and when they do it's usually with a great deal of grief including having the damn door drilled, I just can't seem to fathom why these electronic locks are so popular.
Just want to say THANK YOU! Saved me the cost of a locksmith. Purchased a $90. Kaba replacement lock which is LaGarda compliant. Took about 1p minutes to install. Works like a charm! There is also a manual combination lock setup that you can change out the electronic lock if you so wish. I'm still on the fence about the manual combo? About the same $. Anyway, I don't make many comments bit truly wanted you to know my appreciation anf respect for researching and posting this absolute perfect fix! God bless!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Fit a mechanical combo lock, the basic design hasn't changed in over 150 years. Many original locks are still working - proven design. Will always let you know if there is a problem, unlike digital locks, one second they are working, then nothing.
Absolutely worked. Locksmith said 500-600 to open. They “could” also replace the lock. It’s such a difficult job. I wrote him back saying it’s disgusting what he would charge. Thanks for saving me 500.00.
When working on your safe, LOCK YOUR DOOR OPEN that way if you pull your cable out or pinch it you don't have to call a lock smith. I cringed when you shut it then pulled the keypad.
I put a c-clamp on the body oriented so the door cannot be closed so I am able to retract the bolts while working on the safe without danger of accidentally closing the door.
Surprised you got Cannon to answer the phone. I have a worthless lifetime warranty on my Cannon Safe, but they didn't answer the phone nor gave me any help when my safe broke. I had the same problem about 5 years ago and fixed it the same way you did.
I have the same safe. The keypad went out about 10 years ago. Cannon overnighted me a new one at no cost to me. I did exactly what Joe did to get the safe open, but, I ordered a Sargent & Greenleaf dial lock and swapped it out. Those electronic locks just don't last.
Once the door is open it's best to replace the lock as that is often a point of failure. Once the door is open NEVER close it again with thoroughly testing the lock with the door upon. Replacing the lock itself is pretty straightforward. Life saving tip: Photograph everything before taking it apart. You may need to refer to the photo.
My safe has this feature that forces you to close it so I am locked out good now. While the door is open the pins will not retract. I closed it and even tho I followed the directions on setting up the code it won't take my code. My pass port is in there :(
I’ve got basically the same keypad. I’m wondering if I should just buy one to have on hand. I really wanted a good old dial combination but they didn’t have any when I bought my safe. I would have gladly paid extra for one. I’ve seen some really old combination safes that work perfectly. Just don’t forget the combo. 😱
Great video! You also answered my question where exactly the combo numbers are stored. I am also changing my Securam digital lock over to a mechanical Sargent & Greenleaf in the case of an EMP or other type of electrical surge that could fry the electronics in the keypad. I've had my safe for over 6 years and I'm probably over-concerned about being able to get inside but with the current state of the world right now you just never know. Thanks again!
I could've done that! for(899.95$) + mileage,lunch,something cold to drink,.......+++++) I am a locksmith,& I would have done close to exactly the same things you did.Very good job!
How about an electronic panel that requires the cable different from the one you had? Mine is about the same we use on the back of the PC Router. Thanks.
Awesome that worked. I had that concern when I bought my safe. On mine, the keypad twists off and reveals a large hole for a key. Never had to use the key, but good to know I can.
Great video... one of my biggest concerns in buying a new safe. dial vs digital. Now that I see this I will have more questions to the locksmith where I'm buying our safe.
I have a Cannon also. Bought it years ago at Tractor Supply. It's keypad is a SG. It still works. But thinking of getting a spare keypad to put aside. I don't know the quality of the SG brand. Would the LA be compatible?
U got lucky. FYI Electronic locks can often be opened with a large rare earth magnet in about 15 seconds. I never buy a safe that doesnt use a S&G type 2 or better manual dial lock. To each his own. But I am glad u got urs open. Goes to show you don't always believe what so called experts tell you. I would have done exactly what you did. Research and give it a try. Good job.
Before you just plug in the cable, make sure that the wire colors are the same on the new/old cable. Companies very rarely change what colors they use for different signals on wires, but the guy who designed the new circuit board might have swapped signal positions to the connector. There's a really high likelihood they included the cable that goes through the door specifically because they haven't always maintained the same pinout on the keypad side. If they swapped power and ground, you guarantee the need to drill if you hook it up without checking 'cuz you'll let the magic smoke out _inside_ the safe. A four-wire serial connection like that is either Power (Red), Ground (Black), Data In, Data Out or Power (Red), Ground (Black), Data, Clock. If power/ground were not swapped but the data lines were, it has very low likelihood of doing damage, but it just won't open. As a serious technophile, I can't bring myself to trust an electronic lock on my gun safe. As you said, you waited five weeks before you went to eBay. Since I learned locksport, I'll never trust a keyed lock. The round locks might _look_ more secure, but trust me, they're not! Old-fashioned rotary combination is the only lock I trust on my safe. Yes, they can fail too, but the only time I've heard of it actually happening is because of gross abuse or neglect.
I have the same cannon. In 2017 my pad failed as well. Unfortunately my search only revealed a lock company that charged me 335.00 for a replacement pad. But it did save drilling it. My safe was the same safe except a little bigger. It worked. The sad part is that the original key pad lock only had a poorly soldiered connection.
questions: What is the approximate weight of a safe like that? Second question is: If you had option for non-electric mechanical dial tumbler safe instead of electronic which would you prefer.
One would assume so. The person I spoke to at Cannon was a customer service person, not tech support. they got the serial number, told me the locks were on back order and that it should ship out within a week. They also told me that the safe needed to be drilled and gave me the information to give the locksmith so they could call cannon and get the information on exactly where to drill. I'm not making this up. One other thing to consider is that they don't manufacture the lock sets themselves. They use LaGard locks. Still you make a good point. When I called the second time to ask if the lock set had been shipped, I explained exactly what I planned to do. The customer service rep wasn't receptive to the idea that it would work but was apologetic about the delay in shipping. Maybe I should call back and talk to the technical support folks and ask why customer service is advising customers to drill.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Sounds like a bit more communication between customer service and tech support would do them some favours. Great video as always. Thanks Jose.
My dial lock only lasted 6 years and they gave me that back order crap and i told them it was a liability issue and i would be tearing them a new ass if i was robbed
I recently replaced a LaGard basic electronic lock on a safe with a S&G 6730 dial lock. The LaGard never failed (and still works) but I figured I was pushing my luck after 27 years with no failures. The replacement was easy, and the new mechanical lock works great.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy How long would you let an electronic lock that had never given you any problems stay in service before proactively replacing it? You are a braver man than I, locking the safe before the replacement was installed and tested. It would have been really really cool to see you demonstrate opening with a Phoenix.
Great video!! I have a dial safe because I was concerned about this issue. You have changed my mind on the digital keypad safes. When it first unlocked, I said out loud “ha ha!” then you said the same thing in the same way. Lol.
I didn't need to know all of what he was doing but brilliantly it eventually showed me how to change the batteries to a American Heritage Safe from Costco. It has the exact same lock. Since there is no visible mounting screws on the lock housing.. I did not want to damage the housing trying to get off to change the battery. This video showed me how to access the battery.
I have been through the same thing when my keypad died. It would have been easier if I could have watched this video beforehand. I was able to open my safe and turned the locking bars open to prevent total failure. Cannon was helpful with the replacement, but I had to take the inside panel off to get to the mechanism. Good to know an easier way now. I also had to replace another dial lock failure on my late father's safe and the previous experience helped, as the company (Liberty) sent a keypad to replace the dial.
Good info only if you have a faulty keypad. New keypad upgrades only work with the specific lock . And if a safe drill is needed a locksmith should & could put another style so the drill hole does not compromise the safe security integrity. But yes your basic keypad are interchangeable. Good job Diagnosing
Get a dial lock, if you're keeping your home defense gins in it you already screwed up so whats wrong with a safe that may take a little longer to gain entry but is far more reliable than one with an electric lock.
I have an 07' Cannon with the S&G electronic lock. Do you have experience with the S&G? No problems so far, but after finding your video it makes me wonder if I should buy pre-emtively? I don't want to fix what isn't broken. Thanks for your thoughts.
Here's a link to Amazon (affiliate link), I have a bunch of them. Keep one plugged in to the wall and swap them out periodically. I'll ad this to the comments as well
Great video,......just bought one,.....had mine off as soon as I got it? The code would not work? Then when it it does work you have a millisecond to open it?
@@xrp777 A "lock body" refers to a key lock and is the cylinder or the part that turns to open or lock a device. MBAUSA refers to the inside component on the safe as a swingbolt or deadbolt lock depending on the application.
Add no no one said cylinder get it straight . It's a safe lock body functionality as far as swingboat deadbolt Doesn't matter and if it did you should have called it that from the 1st place
What kind of dehumidifier did you say that was? Very educational I also have a Canon so I had a little bit of trouble out of it but nothing like yours but they took care of me very quickly course it was before all the virus deal ?
I've been a locksmith for 20 years, key pads go bad ALL THE TIME! I highly recomend an S&G DIAL. or if you HAVE to have a keypad, go with S&G. (Sargent and Greenleaf) LaGuard dials and pads are POO!
How do you find out what’s compatible with your safe, as in compared to the 5715 LaGard. My original LaGard key pad is at least 20 yrs old and made of solid heavy duty copper and much heavier battery wires. They sure went to hades! Cant find anything that’s not cheep plastic!!
You should replace the inside unit as well. It was a 60/40 chance that the outer unit failed first. These electronic locks last five to ten years and the closer you are to ten the closer you are to being locked out. This is not a secret in the industry. You made the right bet though and it is somewhat surprising how many pro safesmiths are not aware of your fix and others don't want to tie up money with different keypads sitting around. You can get a new complete electronic lock for less than $100 and that is usually an easy self install. Some folks will even order two so they will have a second keypad that is a guaranteed fit if they need it someday. Sometimes a mechanical one will be a direct screw in replacement as well. If the mechanical lock is not a direct fit it requires some machinists knowledge and tools to make it fit. Not for the average do it yourselfer. Mechanical locks can fail too but it is rare and they are usually decades old. In my experience I will replace 20 electronic locks before I have to do 1 mechanical.
From my research I have determined the mechanical locks do last longer but I went with a electronic pad for the ease of access, I have another video of replacing the internal mechanism as well. Thanks for the helpful insight!
Im not surprised these locksmiths do not know i have ran into this same thing time and time again that the people who sell it really do not know the product that well.
I have 2 safes of different brands but the keypad connectors are the same. I had issues with one so I swapped them and voila it worked then I saw your video 😝. There was no way I was going to have a stranger come into the house and play with it and see what I have. Worse case I was going to cut it myself. Once someone sees what’s inside then your entire house is compromised.
My brother in law bought a house with a locked safe built in, the previous owner had tenants in who changed the combination, then disappeared later. Is there any way to open that safe without destroying it? If not, where is the best position to cut to open?
@@ExtremeDIYGuy i had read a short writing by a gentleman who did basically just that. he had inherited a Cannon safe with out a code. His description was a bit vague, but in short he had said he removed the electronic key pad to access the wiring. given that all the magic of a stored combination is there at the number pad, he was able to use a jumper wire to bypass the actual code entry and activate the solenoid manually. I now am faced with the same situation. My father has passed away and now the safe is mine, but with him, he took the combination as dementia had started to settle in and his trust with anybody was no longer an option from his point of view. i would be very curious, how to go about that. Given the vault weighs close to 1100 lbs empty by his estimation, it would be very nice to be able to empty the safe of its contents before moving, or attempting to move it. perhaps someone else had read or heard of this? maybe there is someone just a bit more savvy than I who would like to offer advice in this matter? i can understand not wanting to discuss that in great detail in an open forum, so if there is anyone out there that has or believe they have to right advice, please feel free to DM me.
Thanks for the video as I was wondering if the code was stored on the keypad or some software inside the safe. Otherwise a person could open it, by simply replacing the keypad…. Duh. Thanks again. :)
So when you say original keypad failed do you mean it had no power or it did have power but the code doesn't work. ? . Because I'm having a similar issue on a Cannon Safe the keypad lights up and works but it does will not open it
If you drill it you drive in a hardened steel pin and weld it. That thing would be more secure than new. You wouldn't have to weld a tapered pin (you can use a roller from a tapered roller bearing) except the surface steel on these is so thin if you don't it will only be solidly inserted in the lock mounting plate allowing the possibility of hole sawing the outer layer and pulling it out. Of course you can also weld it on the backside of the mounting plate inside the safe.
As a locksmith with 25+ years of experience I have some points to make on this video 1) always try replacing the battery first (this is about 3/4 of my service calls when the safe "is dead") 2) inspect the cable to make sure it is not pinched causing a short 3) after these 2 are addressed, try the keypad replacement but if you have made it to here, that only works about 15% of the time (it's usually the internal chip in the lock body that has failed) 4) after you penetrate a container door, it take a lot more than just a screwdriver in the hole to open it. 5) electronic locks and mechanical locks have different drill points, and if you have to penetrate an electronic lock, it will need to be replaced so even the new one would have to be destroyed in order to open it through that hole. 6) any safe technician worth their salt will plug any penetration points put into the container, and generally it is harder to penetrate that same location again if any attention to drill resistance was accounted for in the repair process.
Great video. You should have kept the safe door open when you unplugged the front control unit to mount it. Then a final mounted rest. You are lucky it worked after the final install. Again, GREAT video. Thanks for sharing.
I have the same but I wanted to hardwired mine drilled a hole in the bottom using an AC adapter plugged it into the wall taped the cable along the inside corners then up into the door no more batteries
That's sounds like a solution. I actually ran AC power into mine through the back. Haven't thought about permanently replacing the battery with a power supply though.
My buddy has one of these. He inherited the safe without a combo. Cannon said it did not have a one time code available. I am a software engineer, with a new skill set of robotics engineer, at least an ametuer one. I set up a progamical logic circuit on the 4 pin cable going to the lock mechanism, and after running this for 2 months i learn of this pound key. Is the combination a 6 digit pin, and must the pound key also be pressed? Can u share with me any pin specifities like do they need to be different numbers? Cannon was very unhelpful, in fact even providing a death crrtificate was not going to be helpful as per the customer support rep.
If the lock is an Lagard (it probably is) it requires a 6 digit combo, keys can be repeated and no # is required. I do not have any specifics on the pins. You will probably have to build in a timer to your code as three consecutive failures locks the safe out of any combo for a period of time (5 minutes I think) You can also check with LaGard, they might be able to help you. Hope this helps/
Fantastic video; really well done. I have to thank you, since I had tried other videos on UA-cam, many of which were very well-made, as well. However, your's did the trick, and saved me a ton of dough in the process. I'm truly grateful to you for having taken the time to post this. BTW--- Love the accent... Brooklyn???
@@ExtremeDIYGuy LOL! I'm in Texas, but am originally from East Flatbush, Brooklyn. It's tough to tell people here that I'm a native Texan with a thick Brooklyn accent. Thanks again.
It might be a good idea to have a spare keypad before the one on the safe fails luckily mine has a back up key also but I still might grab a keypad and the lock on the inside before they come Obsolete
I have a Cannon safe. The combination is 6 characters. Recently it starts beeping on the fifth character and goes to lockout mode. Im going to change the battery and see if that works, if it doesn't Im going to try this. I feel like it may be the key pad. Thanks for the great video !!!!
Nice job saving money. The thing people don't understand about safes are that they're 90% junk! Most home safes bought can just be ' Bounced open' not going to explain the way to do it but believe me it works
I store mine in my shed. In the winter it gets really cold. Keypad works, combination works but tumblers won’t open. New battery installed, tumblers still don’t open. In warm weather, it works fine.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy it’s been there for the past five years. Every winter I have this issue. Way too big to fit inside the house. It is a widebody 48 rifle safe. Also, it is heavier than hell so I’m not moving that thing inside.
The solenoid in mine failed. Locksmith drilled it for 300 bucks. I drove in a bearing to make it a challenge to drill again. And I switched to an EMP proof dial lock!
This video helped tremendously thank you! However my 20 year old cannon the inner lock where the code is stored is what’s bad so I’m going to cut the back and then get into it that way 😒
Wow, that sucks! I was afraid that would be the problem with mine. I'm still a little leery of it. I plan on replacing the inside mechanism when Cannon send me the replacement unit just to play it safe.
@@masonjones8712 I will, it would totally suck if I managed to get in with a new keypad and then the inside blows out. I'll do it as soon as I get the replacement from cannon, they say it is still on back order. If I have to wait to long I'll probably just buy one then put the cannon replacement on ebay.
As others have said when replacing a lock always try and do with the door open. Throw the detent so it locks open. When removing the old lock watch out for relockers. Always put it back the same way or you will wind up drilling it. Newer lock models like securam have the lock and face mated. So you can’t just walk around with a face and open safes.
Most safe locks are backwards compatible. Just a tip, if you are working on a dead keypad on a Secure Ram style lock the board on the keypad is paired with the lock. If you have this same issue with nonresponsive buttons you can order a new lock, take both keypads apart, take the new button portion, move the circuit board over to the new key pad and plug in your lock. Put your battery in, if you get link ok just hit your code and open. Consider it a free tip from a safe guy.
If This fix doesnt work and you need a reliable and certified Safe technician, check www.savta.org/ and do a search there. Here is a link to a commenter that appears to be a trustworthy safe professional, If you re in Illinois, he is worth calling, www.hkssystems.com/ He also has a great youtube channel ua-cam.com/channels/MI4ciEEB5pBidM--SEndtg.html
How do u fix a safe handle that can’t be open?
Btw it is a sentry safe
@@teresazhu6576 Sorry I don't think I can help you with that. You might have to call a safe technician.
@@teresazhu6576 Why don't you spell YOU instead of U?
@@CooperLee-1 time saving hack bro
Jose, you are a life saver and a safe saver. I had looked on UA-cam shortly after the keypad on my Winchester safe quit working about two years ago. I didn't find anything that would help. Just recently, I looked again and found your video. On your recommendation, I went directly to eBay and purchased one of the 5715SC keypads. It arrived today, June 18, 2024 and I was beside myself trying to get it installed. In a word, Perfect. Thank you, Jose!!
You are welcome!
I learned an easy way to open my Winchester gun safe without a combination of drilling. I then noticed this same design flaw is on way too many safes. I hate to post it and inspire someone to rob a safes contents.
I'd recommend if your safe has the code reset button on the inside of the door (the side of the door facing the hinges) to spend 10 mins and move it to a spot inside the safe.
Joe, I recently viewed your video on how you fixed the safe that you display in this video. For the last few years I had been having problems opening my Cannon Safe and I had been playing with the idea of contacting a lock smith to come fix my safe. I viewed your video several times and then I went ahead and took off the key pad on my safe and checked the internal wiring, and found that it looked just as the one in your old key pad. I went ahead an ordered a new key pad, the LaGard 5715SC through Ebay, the Kingman Security Group in Upland, Ca., and it arrived within two days. I installed the new key pad as you instructed and it works like a charm. Thank you for taking the time to make this video, you saved me some big bucks, Thanks Again!!
I am glad i could help you in your endeavors!! Thanks for watching!
Canon sent me a new one , I was still able to get in mine if I tried long enough , I think my first junk one was S&G
@@robertboyd3863is it a dial s&g. I have one and it works good why is it junk
like I said mine is a dial
Your satisfaction "haha" upon opening it is one of my go tos when I beat any system. Love it when the little guys beats the big guys!
Couldn't agree more!
You're the man! I had a safe that was locked and wouldn't open, and decided to purchase a new keypad before calling a locksmith and getting it drilled out. Pulling the ribbon from the keypad that was inserted on the external circuit board, and plugging the new keypad ribbon into the same circuit board did the trick! You're a life saver!
Great to hear!
Awesome that it worked out. Always nice when you can save money. Kudos to Cannon also for standing behind their product 20 years later.
I am stunned your electronic lock actually lasted 20 years. I can't even keep count of the horror stories I have read about as well as first hand accounts of failed electronic safe locks. Good video.
Thanks! I'm starting to think that locks on safes should probably be changed every 10 years or so!
Mine is at 21. No failure, no fault - 4 new batteries (now on number 5) are all it ever needed.
I think the key to that was his safe was 20 years old and everything is worse and worst quality As It Gets newer and newer.
Stuff manufactured now probably won't last two years.
My Cannon safe lock failed 1 year and 7 months after purchase. NEVER will buy a junk safe with a digital lock ever again. Digital locks are trash.
@@DConstructiveCritic I read about these things failing so often, and when they do it's usually with a great deal of grief including having the damn door drilled, I just can't seem to fathom why these electronic locks are so popular.
Just want to say THANK YOU! Saved me the cost of a locksmith. Purchased a $90. Kaba replacement lock which is LaGarda compliant. Took about 1p minutes to install. Works like a charm! There is also a manual combination lock setup that you can change out the electronic lock if you so wish. I'm still on the fence about the manual combo? About the same $. Anyway, I don't make many comments bit truly wanted you to know my appreciation anf respect for researching and posting this absolute perfect fix!
God bless!
Your welcome and Thanks! I'm glad you were able to get back into the safe!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Fit a mechanical combo lock, the basic design hasn't changed in over 150 years. Many original locks are still working - proven design. Will always let you know if there is a problem, unlike digital locks, one second they are working, then nothing.
Could you supply a link or mor3 information on the manual lock option.
Absolutely worked. Locksmith said 500-600 to open. They “could” also replace the lock. It’s such a difficult job. I wrote him back saying it’s disgusting what he would charge. Thanks for saving me 500.00.
Glad i could help!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Does that mean a thief could just buy a few new keypads and type in the default code and get into any safe ?.
🤫@@silverpro8356
It's so satisfying, when you can work "around" a professional and the factory that made them and come out victorious and on top!
There's definitely a sense of accomplishment and Victory!
When working on your safe, LOCK YOUR DOOR OPEN that way if you pull your cable out or pinch it you don't have to call a lock smith. I cringed when you shut it then pulled the keypad.
Id have to agree with you on that! My son told me the same thing he was also cringing lol.
Exactly!
I put a c-clamp on the body oriented so the door cannot be closed so I am able to retract the bolts while working on the safe without danger of accidentally closing the door.
I think you are really awesome with explaining the process while replacing the new keypad
Thank you.
Happy to help!
Haha.....great! Showed them! I'm thrilled ya got it fixed yourself!
Me too! Thanks!
Surprised you got Cannon to answer the phone. I have a worthless lifetime warranty on my Cannon Safe, but they didn't answer the phone nor gave me any help when my safe broke. I had the same problem about 5 years ago and fixed it the same way you did.
They were easy to get a hold of. Getting the replacement parts took a few months though.
I have the same safe. The keypad went out about 10 years ago. Cannon overnighted me a new one at no cost to me. I did exactly what Joe did to get the safe open, but, I ordered a Sargent & Greenleaf dial lock and swapped it out. Those electronic locks just don't last.
@@stevekennedy2201 It took them months to get me my replacement! IT was backordered and they sent a different brand.
Once the door is open it's best to replace the lock as that is often a point of failure. Once the door is open NEVER close it again with thoroughly testing the lock with the door upon. Replacing the lock itself is pretty straightforward. Life saving tip: Photograph everything before taking it apart. You may need to refer to the photo.
It may not appear so but I did thoroughly test the replacements before closing the safe
My safe has this feature that forces you to close it so I am locked out good now. While the door is open the pins will not retract. I closed it and even tho I followed the directions on setting up the code it won't take my code. My pass port is in there :(
It is not hard to get a replacement passport. @@SanitysVoid
I’ve got basically the same keypad. I’m wondering if I should just buy one to have on hand. I really wanted a good old dial combination but they didn’t have any when I bought my safe. I would have gladly paid extra for one. I’ve seen some really old combination safes that work perfectly. Just don’t forget the combo. 😱
I hear you, digital is quick but a dial is more reliable.
Great video! You also answered my question where exactly the combo numbers are stored. I am also changing my Securam digital lock over to a mechanical Sargent & Greenleaf in the case of an EMP or other type of electrical surge that could fry the electronics in the keypad. I've had my safe for over 6 years and I'm probably over-concerned about being able to get inside but with the current state of the world right now you just never know. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful!
I could've done that! for(899.95$) + mileage,lunch,something cold to drink,.......+++++) I am a locksmith,& I would have done close to exactly the same things you did.Very good job!
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
I got a Browning 6 months ago, And for the life of me why would you put an Amazon Basic battery back in after going thru all that work
Dont forget to post the link to the replacement in the description. Great video !!!!
I added it to the description, thanks for reminding me!
How about an electronic panel that requires the cable different from the one you had? Mine is about the same we use on the back of the PC Router. Thanks.
I don't think that will work. TO gain access you will probably have to use a front panel from the same manufacturer as the original.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I thought so, I will try to get one of the same. Thank you.
@@1945temo Your welcome!
Awesome that worked. I had that concern when I bought my safe. On mine, the keypad twists off and reveals a large hole for a key. Never had to use the key, but good to know I can.
Is that hole for the key or the cable? Mine is for the cable.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy its for a key that came with the safe as backup. A large, long key
ah ok, got it.
Thanks for the video. Ran into the same issue with the relocker. Was happy to hear I wasn't crazy.
Glad it helped!
Great video... one of my biggest concerns in buying a new safe. dial vs digital. Now that I see this I will have more questions to the locksmith where I'm buying our safe.
I have a Cannon also. Bought it years ago at Tractor Supply. It's keypad is a SG. It still works. But thinking of getting a spare keypad to put aside. I don't know the quality of the SG brand. Would the LA be compatible?
Probably not, I would stick with SG. But you could give these folks a call. They are very helpful and could give you more insight mbausa.com/
The keypad on mine was junk from the start
U got lucky. FYI Electronic locks can often be opened with a large rare earth magnet in about 15 seconds. I never buy a safe that doesnt use a S&G type 2 or better manual dial lock. To each his own. But I am glad u got urs open. Goes to show you don't always believe what so called experts tell you. I would have done exactly what you did. Research and give it a try. Good job.
Thanks!
I have two canon, safe, this is a great video case I ever have problems. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Who else cringed when he locked it back up right after opening it for the first time?
Even I cringed, but to be honest. I was fairly confident it would work, and I had a cutoff wheel on standby lol
Me
Before you just plug in the cable, make sure that the wire colors are the same on the new/old cable. Companies very rarely change what colors they use for different signals on wires, but the guy who designed the new circuit board might have swapped signal positions to the connector. There's a really high likelihood they included the cable that goes through the door specifically because they haven't always maintained the same pinout on the keypad side. If they swapped power and ground, you guarantee the need to drill if you hook it up without checking 'cuz you'll let the magic smoke out _inside_ the safe. A four-wire serial connection like that is either Power (Red), Ground (Black), Data In, Data Out or Power (Red), Ground (Black), Data, Clock. If power/ground were not swapped but the data lines were, it has very low likelihood of doing damage, but it just won't open.
As a serious technophile, I can't bring myself to trust an electronic lock on my gun safe. As you said, you waited five weeks before you went to eBay. Since I learned locksport, I'll never trust a keyed lock. The round locks might _look_ more secure, but trust me, they're not! Old-fashioned rotary combination is the only lock I trust on my safe. Yes, they can fail too, but the only time I've heard of it actually happening is because of gross abuse or neglect.
Good video man. Hope you have saved me a bunch of hassle. Was about to cut my safe open from the back and then reweld it if I could fix it.
Glad I could help
When you ask how easy it is to get anything fixed, you will ALWAYS be told it's not worth it.
Screwing is the name of the game.
It appears that cannon didn't want people to know that this safe was so unsecure! now it's time to buy a good safe.
well done
Rich
I would agree, my next safe won't be a Cannon
How’s it unsafe, you still have to know the combination
@@toolman18ky about 10 seconds with a quality metal drill bit, then insert screwdriver into hole and turn.
@@dwarden3 You have no idea how to open a safe. It’s just not that easy.
Thanks man, going to try this. My key pad died about 5 years ago and I have all my important stuff in it.
No problem thanks for watching!
I have the same cannon. In 2017 my pad failed as well. Unfortunately my search only revealed a lock company that charged me 335.00 for a replacement pad. But it did save drilling it. My safe was the same safe except a little bigger. It worked. The sad part is that the original key pad lock only had a poorly soldiered connection.
It sounds like you got off lightly at $335. At least you did not have to have it drilled.
I ended up drilling a manual tumbler and now use it for ammo . bought a bigger electronic lock and now see how to change the battery. Thanks.
Your Welcome !
Well done! I repair safes for a living and I'm impressed.
Thanks 👍 that's good to hear!
questions: What is the approximate weight of a safe like that? Second question is: If you had option for non-electric mechanical dial tumbler safe instead of electronic which would you prefer.
If I remember right it's about 900 pounds for this safe. I hate to admit it but I prefer the electronic locks
I can understand the local safe company telling you to drill it, but surely Cannon themselves would know your way works!
One would assume so. The person I spoke to at Cannon was a customer service person, not tech support. they got the serial number, told me the locks were on back order and that it should ship out within a week. They also told me that the safe needed to be drilled and gave me the information to give the locksmith so they could call cannon and get the information on exactly where to drill. I'm not making this up.
One other thing to consider is that they don't manufacture the lock sets themselves. They use LaGard locks. Still you make a good point.
When I called the second time to ask if the lock set had been shipped, I explained exactly what I planned to do. The customer service rep wasn't receptive to the idea that it would work but was apologetic about the delay in shipping. Maybe I should call back and talk to the technical support folks and ask why customer service is advising customers to drill.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Sounds like a bit more communication between customer service and tech support would do them some favours.
Great video as always. Thanks Jose.
@@masterblast4069You are absolutely correct! Thanks!
My dial lock only lasted 6 years and they gave me that back order crap and i told them it was a liability issue and i would be tearing them a new ass if i was robbed
@@dccajc1 Which is why I went ahead and bought one as an interim!
Which one is easier to break into Electronic combo or Mechanical...
Congrats! You saved everyone who looks at this video 100s of dollars.
Glad I could help!
I recently replaced a LaGard basic electronic lock on a safe with a S&G 6730 dial lock. The LaGard never failed (and still works) but I figured I was pushing my luck after 27 years with no failures. The replacement was easy, and the new mechanical lock works great.
Glad to hear you got the job done, but I still like the electronic ones because they're quicker to open in an emergency!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy How long would you let an electronic lock that had never given you any problems stay in service before proactively replacing it?
You are a braver man than I, locking the safe before the replacement was installed and tested. It would have been really really cool to see you demonstrate opening with a Phoenix.
Great video!! I have a dial safe because I was concerned about this issue. You have changed my mind on the digital keypad safes. When it first unlocked, I said out loud “ha ha!” then you said the same thing in the same way. Lol.
Thanks! That moment when you know it worked correctly lol!
I didn't need to know all of what he was doing but brilliantly it eventually showed me how to change the batteries to a American Heritage Safe from Costco. It has the exact same lock. Since there is no visible mounting screws on the lock housing.. I did not want to damage the housing trying to get off to change the battery. This video showed me how to access the battery.
Glad the video could be of some use to you!
I have been through the same thing when my keypad died. It would have been easier if I could have watched this video beforehand. I was able to open my safe and turned the locking bars open to prevent total failure. Cannon was helpful with the replacement, but I had to take the inside panel off to get to the mechanism. Good to know an easier way now. I also had to replace another dial lock failure on my late father's safe and the previous experience helped, as the company (Liberty) sent a keypad to replace the dial.
That feeling when you try to open the safe and get nothing is terrible! How did you get the safe open?
If my cannon safe keypad says NL what brand of keypad should I be looking for?
I Would stick with NL, which is the actual brand of the lock and keypad
Good info only if you have a faulty keypad. New keypad upgrades only work with the specific lock . And if a safe drill is needed a locksmith should & could put another style so the drill hole does not compromise the safe security integrity. But yes your basic keypad are interchangeable. Good job Diagnosing
Thanks, I've had the fact that a competent safe tech can drill and patch to the point where it is better than before! I appreciate the feedback!
Good video
Had same issue.
Replaced my keypad with a KABA.
Zero issues
I'll keep that one in mind for the future!
Thanks, I too have a big Cannon safe, was dreading the day it wouldn’t open. You gave me hope :))
Your welcome, glad to hear!
Get a dial lock, if you're keeping your home defense gins in it you already screwed up so whats wrong with a safe that may take a little longer to gain entry but is far more reliable than one with an electric lock.
I had to use an air hammer against a block of wood against the safe by the lock for it to finally open with the combo. Second lock to fail on me.
Wow, That sounds brutal! Did the safe survive lol?
Hopefully the locking mechanism inside the safe is good. There is a little Grove in the white connector make sure it matches up to the key pad.
Its been working flawlessly.
I have an 07' Cannon with the S&G electronic lock. Do you have experience with the S&G? No problems so far, but after finding your video it makes me wonder if I should buy pre-emtively? I don't want to fix what isn't broken. Thanks for your thoughts.
Great. Thanks for the info. The plastic lock key pad on my new Cannon is a bit flimsy feeling. You get what you pay for.
Yes, quality on the keypads seems to have gone downhill
Joe, what was the name of the dehumidifier you have, I couldn't catch the name........very humid where I live!
Here's a link to Amazon (affiliate link), I have a bunch of them. Keep one plugged in to the wall and swap them out periodically. I'll ad this to the comments as well
Great video,......just bought one,.....had mine off as soon as I got it?
The code would not work?
Then when it it does work you have a millisecond to open it?
That sounds like it's defective. Try putting a fresh battery in and see if that helps. If not, I would call the manufacturer.
So I need to know the code that was original to the safe, not the last known good combo, correct?
You need to use the last known combo. That is stored in the lock mechanism inside the safe.
Please it's called a Lock Body
@@xrp777 A "lock body" refers to a key lock and is the cylinder or the part that turns to open or lock a device. MBAUSA refers to the inside component on the safe as a swingbolt or deadbolt lock depending on the application.
Just don't call it a mechanism
Add no no one said cylinder get it straight . It's a safe lock body functionality as far as swingboat deadbolt Doesn't matter and if it did you should have called it that from the 1st place
What a great feeling saving some money. Nicely done filming. Seemed logical.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
What kind of dehumidifier did you say that was? Very educational I also have a Canon so I had a little bit of trouble out of it but nothing like yours but they took care of me very quickly course it was before all the virus deal ?
It's a desiccant dehumidifier. You can plug it in to the wall to recharge it. Great stuff! I'll put a link to it in the description.
Very good video! Very informative! 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I have been wondering about this issue. I may buy a backup keypad soon. And you're right, why hire a pro when a new safe cost less. Thanks
Your welcome
Awesome !, always nice to save a few bucks and the good feeling of doing it yourself ! , god bless ! 😊
You got that right!
I've been a locksmith for 20 years, key pads go bad ALL THE TIME! I highly recomend an S&G DIAL. or if you HAVE to have a keypad, go with S&G. (Sargent and Greenleaf) LaGuard dials and pads are POO!
I like your description of the LG locks lol. Definitely agree with S&G for dial locks. They've been around forever!
How do you find out what’s compatible with your safe, as in compared to the 5715 LaGard. My original LaGard key pad is at least 20 yrs old and made of solid heavy duty copper and much heavier battery wires. They sure went to hades! Cant find anything that’s not cheep plastic!!
I have a 2009 safe with a S&G keypad. Are there any options to be proactive? I would hate to have a failure at a critical time.
Good video, simple and to the point! I have the same type lock so I'll probably have to face this someday.
You can use this video as a reference for when you do!
I'll stick with my dial combination safe,
one old,over 100yrs,one newer 25yrs,never a problem period.
Thanks for the input.
Wonderful no BS information! Fantastic to know!
Glad you got it to open without destroying your safe!
My thoughts exactly!
You should replace the inside unit as well. It was a 60/40 chance that the outer unit failed first. These electronic locks last five to ten years and the closer you are to ten the closer you are to being locked out. This is not a secret in the industry. You made the right bet though and it is somewhat surprising how many pro safesmiths are not aware of your fix and others don't want to tie up money with different keypads sitting around. You can get a new complete electronic lock for less than $100 and that is usually an easy self install. Some folks will even order two so they will have a second keypad that is a guaranteed fit if they need it someday.
Sometimes a mechanical one will be a direct screw in replacement as well. If the mechanical lock is not a direct fit it requires some machinists knowledge and tools to make it fit. Not for the average do it yourselfer. Mechanical locks can fail too but it is rare and they are usually decades old. In my experience I will replace 20 electronic locks before I have to do 1 mechanical.
From my research I have determined the mechanical locks do last longer but I went with a electronic pad for the ease of access, I have another video of replacing the internal mechanism as well. Thanks for the helpful insight!
Im not surprised these locksmiths do not know i have ran into this same thing time and time again that the people who sell it really do not know the product that well.
I have 2 safes of different brands but the keypad connectors are the same. I had issues with one so I swapped them and voila it worked then I saw your video 😝. There was no way I was going to have a stranger come into the house and play with it and see what I have. Worse case I was going to cut it myself. Once someone sees what’s inside then your entire house is compromised.
I understand your concern, that's why I made this video, to avoid calling a locksmith and risking your privacy!
My brother in law bought a house with a locked safe built in, the previous owner had tenants in who changed the combination, then disappeared later. Is there any way to open that safe without destroying it? If not, where is the best position to cut to open?
How's anyone going to be able to answer that when you gave absolutely no useful details? Call a local locksmith....dumbfuk.
Your best bet would be to get a locksmith to open it for you
Couldn’t you put a voltage on that cable to activate the solenoid?
That will not work.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy i had read a short writing by a gentleman who did basically just that. he had inherited a Cannon safe with out a code. His description was a bit vague, but in short he had said he removed the electronic key pad to access the wiring. given that all the magic of a stored combination is there at the number pad, he was able to use a jumper wire to bypass the actual code entry and activate the solenoid manually. I now am faced with the same situation. My father has passed away and now the safe is mine, but with him, he took the combination as dementia had started to settle in and his trust with anybody was no longer an option from his point of view. i would be very curious, how to go about that. Given the vault weighs close to 1100 lbs empty by his estimation, it would be very nice to be able to empty the safe of its contents before moving, or attempting to move it. perhaps someone else had read or heard of this? maybe there is someone just a bit more savvy than I who would like to offer advice in this matter? i can understand not wanting to discuss that in great detail in an open forum, so if there is anyone out there that has or believe they have to right advice, please feel free to DM me.
What’s the link to purchase the replacement?
Link is in the description.
YOU ARE AMAZING THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH!!! You just saved me so much money because it works!!!!❤️❤️🥰🥰
Wow, that is one of the best compliments I've gotten yet!😍
Thanks for the video as I was wondering if the code was stored on the keypad or some software inside the safe. Otherwise a person could open it, by simply replacing the keypad…. Duh. Thanks again. :)
Thank you for watching!
So when you say original keypad failed do you mean it had no power or it did have power but the code doesn't work. ? . Because I'm having a similar issue on a Cannon Safe the keypad lights up and works but it does will not open it
Mine was completely dead. If I were you I would start with a fresh batter to see if that helps then try a new keypad.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thanks first thing I did was replace the battery still nothing
Super useful video! Thank you, Jose!
You're welcome!
If you drill it you drive in a hardened steel pin and weld it. That thing would be more secure than new. You wouldn't have to weld a tapered pin (you can use a roller from a tapered roller bearing) except the surface steel on these is so thin if you don't it will only be solidly inserted in the lock mounting plate allowing the possibility of hole sawing the outer layer and pulling it out. Of course you can also weld it on the backside of the mounting plate inside the safe.
As a locksmith with 25+ years of experience I have some points to make on this video
1) always try replacing the battery first (this is about 3/4 of my service calls when the safe "is dead")
2) inspect the cable to make sure it is not pinched causing a short
3) after these 2 are addressed, try the keypad replacement but if you have made it to here, that only works about 15% of the time (it's usually the internal chip in the lock body that has failed)
4) after you penetrate a container door, it take a lot more than just a screwdriver in the hole to open it.
5) electronic locks and mechanical locks have different drill points, and if you have to penetrate an electronic lock, it will need to be replaced so even the new one would have to be destroyed in order to open it through that hole.
6) any safe technician worth their salt will plug any penetration points put into the container, and generally it is harder to penetrate that same location again if any attention to drill resistance was accounted for in the repair process.
With any new safe purchase, make sure the model has a secondary key backup. Most new ones do.
Great video. You should have kept the safe door open when you unplugged the front control unit to mount it. Then a final mounted rest. You are lucky it worked after the final install. Again, GREAT video. Thanks for sharing.
I realize that now, thank you for the input.
Nice. Fastest and easiest safe breaking.
If you know the combo. Which is generally not considered "safe breaking"
To paraphrase what I said in the video, this is not to show you how to break in to a safe, it's for those of you that own the safe and know the combo"
Thanks!
I have the same but I wanted to hardwired mine drilled a hole in the bottom using an AC adapter plugged it into the wall taped the cable along the inside corners then up into the door no more batteries
That's sounds like a solution. I actually ran AC power into mine through the back. Haven't thought about permanently replacing the battery with a power supply though.
How much did the new pad cost?
$65.00
Outstanding video! Thanks for taking the time to make that, you just saved me a ton : )
You're welcome!
My buddy has one of these. He inherited the safe without a combo. Cannon said it did not have a one time code available. I am a software engineer, with a new skill set of robotics engineer, at least an ametuer one. I set up a progamical logic circuit on the 4 pin cable going to the lock mechanism, and after running this for 2 months i learn of this pound key. Is the combination a 6 digit pin, and must the pound key also be pressed? Can u share with me any pin specifities like do they need to be different numbers? Cannon was very unhelpful, in fact even providing a death crrtificate was not going to be helpful as per the customer support rep.
If the lock is an Lagard (it probably is) it requires a 6 digit combo, keys can be repeated and no # is required. I do not have any specifics on the pins. You will probably have to build in a timer to your code as three consecutive failures locks the safe out of any combo for a period of time (5 minutes I think) You can also check with LaGard, they might be able to help you. Hope this helps/
Which model did you get from Amazon
There's a link in the description to the model I used.
Fantastic video; really well done. I have to thank you, since I had tried other videos on UA-cam, many of which were very well-made, as well. However, your's did the trick, and saved me a ton of dough in the process. I'm truly grateful to you for having taken the time to post this.
BTW--- Love the accent... Brooklyn???
I'm glad it helped! THe accent is Queens NY. Been in NC for 25 years and cant seem to get rid of it lol.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy LOL! I'm in Texas, but am originally from East Flatbush, Brooklyn. It's tough to tell people here that I'm a native Texan with a thick Brooklyn accent. Thanks again.
@@BlindTriker I hear ya! I try my best to have a neutral accent, but fail at that haha.
It might be a good idea to have a spare keypad before the one on the safe fails luckily mine has a back up key also but I still might grab a keypad and the lock on the inside before they come Obsolete
I have a spare
Great video!
Thanks!
I have a Cannon safe. The combination is 6 characters. Recently it starts beeping on the fifth character and goes to lockout mode. Im going to change the battery and see if that works, if it doesn't Im going to try this. I feel like it may be the key pad. Thanks for the great video !!!!
Your welcome and good luck!
Great Video. I wash we had You Tube 60 years ago. It sure would have saved a lot of people trying to fix things 🙂
It would have saved some people a lot of trouble, but then again, we wouldn't have all those great stories!
Did you set a new code?
Yes of course.
Nice job saving money. The thing people don't understand about safes are that they're 90% junk! Most home safes bought can just be ' Bounced open' not going to explain the way to do it but believe me it works
Interesting 🤔
I store mine in my shed. In the winter it gets really cold. Keypad works, combination works but tumblers won’t open. New battery installed, tumblers still don’t open. In warm weather, it works fine.
Shed might not be the best place for it
@@ExtremeDIYGuy it’s been there for the past five years. Every winter I have this issue. Way too big to fit inside the house. It is a widebody 48 rifle safe. Also, it is heavier than hell so I’m not moving that thing inside.
The solenoid in mine failed. Locksmith drilled it for 300 bucks. I drove in a bearing to make it a challenge to drill again. And I switched to an EMP proof dial lock!
Good deal and you had the luck of dealing with an honest safe tech
This video helped tremendously thank you! However my 20 year old cannon the inner lock where the code is stored is what’s bad so I’m going to cut the back and then get into it that way 😒
Wow, that sucks! I was afraid that would be the problem with mine. I'm still a little leery of it. I plan on replacing the inside mechanism when Cannon send me the replacement unit just to play it safe.
Jose's Extreme DIY yes I would replace it while you can! Because I’m completely locked out of mine
@@masonjones8712 I will, it would totally suck if I managed to get in with a new keypad and then the inside blows out. I'll do it as soon as I get the replacement from cannon, they say it is still on back order. If I have to wait to long I'll probably just buy one then put the cannon replacement on ebay.
Call Cannon they will send you the master code for the safe
@@erniewillis9380 That probably wouldn't work for Mason Jones, it sounds as if the lockset on the inside gave up the ghost.
My safe has a back up key, it's really nice if the battery dies or any other issue arises, I can still easily access my safe.
I would probably lose the key lol
Very nice. I am sure you are happy! Saved some bucks.
Very!
Locksmiths say to drill it to maintain the illusion of security. They do the same for bank boxes if you lose your key however the locks are cheap
As others have said when replacing a lock always try and do with the door open. Throw the detent so it locks open. When removing the old lock watch out for relockers. Always put it back the same way or you will wind up drilling it. Newer lock models like securam have the lock and face mated. So you can’t just walk around with a face and open safes.
The relocker on the replacement mechanism was a PIA for this safe. But at least I got it to work correctly.
Great to know this as I have a Cannon safe. Great video!
Thanks!
Most safe locks are backwards compatible. Just a tip, if you are working on a dead keypad on a Secure Ram style lock the board on the keypad is paired with the lock. If you have this same issue with nonresponsive buttons you can order a new lock, take both keypads apart, take the new button portion, move the circuit board over to the new key pad and plug in your lock. Put your battery in, if you get link ok just hit your code and open.
Consider it a free tip from a safe guy.
Thanks for the advice, hopefully that can help others that encounter this problem