Incredible Sloper Strength with the Heavy Roller | Lattice Training
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Sloper and wrist strength is essential for climbing and injury prevention. However it can be hard to really target this form of training and get the intensity high enough to build high levels of recruitment. This problem is solved with the Heavy Roller! Coming from the world of professional arm-lifting sports this form of training is tried and tested and targets the muscles involved with hard slopers when climbing. It allows us to train them specifically off the wall and work on the strength and conditioning of the wrist. In this video Harley, the designer of this new product, talks us through how to use the mechanics of sloper and wrist strength and how to train effectively.
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Hi Lattice,
Could you guys create a workout with the heavy roller in the crimpd app?
I made my own wrist wrench. It’s awesome
I feel that your Heavy Roller is what I really need. When I climb, pinching / hanging on tiny holds was always easier for me than using big slab holders, like you showed here. I believe my fingers are better than muscles used with that and Heavy Roller position.
Asymmetric training with that second device is important too, just recently I got some mild trauma by doing it on a hard to use hold in our gym.
I’m super excited to see all of the dimensions of wrist training moving into the climbing realm. Why did you decide to go for a wrist wrench style device over the kidney bean shaped wrist wrench that Dan Varian described on the July 8 Lattice Training Podcast?
An extruded bean shape would allow you to use more of your finger flexors, but we wanted to focus on the wrist flexors for this device so decided to stick with the traditional symmetrical design.
I'm not convinced about the exercise for the pinch grip I think the roller needs to be wider. The sloper exercise seems good though
If you have an injury to your TFCC be careful with how much you lift with a roller. Too much weight and you can re-injure the TFCC area.
Do you have any other info about this @gball8466? Can @LatticeTraining comment on this? I have a TFCC injury but would love to train for slopers without making it worse.
Sounds like some usefull info, I got TFCC rupture, around 1,5h years ago, it healed around 10months ago (at least, mosty healed, not sure), also I feel like I have preety fragile wrists so I used to hate slopers but around 1,5 months ago I started really enjoying climbing on slopy holds and so, I'm looking for a way to improve my wrist strength. Would anyone know if training like in this video in which they are holding a position world be riskier or less risky compared to training like wrist curls/extensions?
What was shown for supination was pronation, you inverted them.
Actually, I think both showed a grip position that would work on pronation. Just one with the palm faced upwards, the other with the palm faced downwards.
With the 'pronation', they showed the right hand palm down with the weight on the right side. Which means the pronation muscles are working to counteract the weight wanting to push the wrist towards a supination movement.
With the supination, they also showed the right hand palm up, with the weight in the right. Which also means the pronating muscles are working to prevent the weight from forcing a supination movement in the wrist.
At least that is how I underatand it. But I might be wrong.
In both ways the wrist is working to 'turn' in a clockwise direction (from 1st person view) and counteracting the weight that wants to move in a anti-clockwise direction... is another way to put it.
When in doubt.. just put a weight in your hand and see for yourself :).
The hand positions shown towards the end of the video are correctly mentioned if they just meant to name the hand positions and not the muscles that are worked in that position.
So just to be clear, you're recommending 5 sets for each exercise?
Hi Lattice! Great video and content as always and really enjoying the wrist training. A quick question on the wrist training using the pin….in the pronation and supination positions you hold the pin pointing outwards to the right which would both rotate the wrist in an clockwise direction. Would we want to point the pin in the opposite direction to create anti clockwise rotation? Or is the intention not to train in the anticlockwise direction? Many thanks.
What was shown in pronation is actually training supination and supination training pronation but with it palms down will use more of your extensors as assistance. To isolate it you can use also use it palms up and the weight pointing towards pinky side causing it to turn counter clockwise and train supination. But both ways work great for training it. I use a 8lbs sledgehammer to train all wrist angles and gradually move down the handle if I want to make it more difficult
If you don't have a set of weights at home, how well could the Heavy Roller be used if hung from a pullup bar instead?
I wonder if Janya Garnbret does this exercise in her training?
Great video 👍
wow it's super interesting your continous research and development in climbing training methods! And particularly this instrumento for sloper is interesting becausa it's not an hang-board, so i think it's possible to training more safely and with more focus into details (for example to train with a lower weight a type of sloper that with a hang-board system could be impossible to hang!)
I've only a question, could this training be too stressfull into the wrist? which could be an anti-inflammation schedule of training?
thanks a lot!
Good question. With any forms of training, it can get too stressful if you ramp up the training load to quickly. With the Heavy Roller it is no different. The way we use it it is going to place a lot of stress on the wrist. However, you can start with as little as 1kg and work up at a rate that feels sensible to you. This form of training is big in the arm-lifting community so some very impressive weights have been lifted. From anecdotal evidence it does not have any greater risk than many other forms of grip training.
@@LatticeTraining thanks!
Great video. Is there any reason you prefer isometrics for the deviation/pronation/supination over eccentics/concentrics?
I wouldn't say we 'prefer' one over the other, its simply a good place to start but there are benefits for both. Some people might find the isotonic movements uncomfortable particularly if they have a TFCC injury.
Yves gravelle approved
Will you be selling fractional weights and the grip pin? Or can you recommend where to get them? thanks
The fractional weight plates will be available in 2 weeks time 😁
@@LatticeTraining Awesome
0:50 - This needs revision. He says "we're in the same position we were on the sloper", but that's not true at all. His wrist and fingers are curled to the point where they're pointing 180 degrees back up his arm. That's not at all the case on slopers.
This is not to say that I'm generally negative here. Lattice has great products, and a roller has forever been a staple of the overall grip training community. I'm just not sold on the idea that it benefits sloper grip. At least not based on what's said here.
Armwrestlers do "cupping" exercises with "rolling thunder". Isometric holds would probably mimic holding a sloper.
It does. Alot. It's literally just cupping which is what you are doing the entire time you are on a sloper.
You are correct about the finger being in what my be seen as a 'non climbing specific' position. In this way it's more of a crushing grip for the finger flexors. However the wrist flexors have to work really hard also to maintain the palm in a cupped position. This is where we see the biggest transfer to slopers, particularly big slopers where you are placing the whole palm on the rock. e.g. sandstone or gritstone blocs.
Is it normal that I am much stronger in supination than pronation?
Yes. The bicep is a supinator and typically overpowers the relatively small pronator muscles.
What's the Diameter on this one?`
60mm
Hi there, would it be equally as effective to train for slopers with the Lattice pinch block?
No is the short answer. This is going to focus heavily on the wrist flexors whereas the pinch block more so on the thumb and finger flexors.
the P I N C H block for S L O P E R S? of course......
In fairness, I make pinch blocks which are meant be used in such a fashion, and almost any pinch device could be but only by putting the canal and tunnel in a stressful position and muscles in a mechanically disadvantaged position. Would far rather someone use a device intended for this.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the short and sweet answer!
@@Sepp2009 T H A N K S
What about just hanging on two sloper holds?
This. Or just spending time on a sloper climb.
Because they are a company. They need to find more senseless ways for climbers to keep spending their money.
That'd be much harder to measure progress on / progress at all + would work different muscles depending on sloper positioning no?
I own a wrist wrench and it does work the forearm flexors more than the Beastmaker Slopers, I feel like they work the four finger drag more.
To me the wrench is better for those really big Slopers where it is all about wrist Flexion while the Beastmaker helps with the slopers which are more fingertip oriented if you get what I mean
A few good points here and I think @LJP summarised it nicely. We don't believe its another senseless way for climbers to spend money and its unfortunate some people think this is what might drive us as a company. We genuinely believe the Heavy Roller/Wrist Wrench solves a issue for climbers looking to train wrist flexion in isolation, in a way that is not fully covered by just hanging on slopers.
Im not sold on this. Seems like a product meant for selling when you could tran the wristflexors in easier ways. The wrist is in a very odd angel wich should put a lot of strain on it. I think it would be better to train these mucles on a hangboard with a big grip. Much more like the activity you are training for... //Occupational therapist and Climber😉
I think the suggestion it is at an odd angle is correct. But so to does climbing place the wrist at odd angles. In recent years we've seen the full crimp position go from taboo to normal in a training context. The suggestion 'was' the angle of the fingers put too much strain on the pulleys and it should be avoided. Now most coaches and climbers understand that if we want to full crimp when climbing we must expose this position in training. We believe the same is true for more acute angles of the wrist. If you want to go on a trip to Fontainebleau, for example, and do hard sloper moves and mantels you are better strengthening the wrist and gradually exposing it to these types of forces. Progressive overload and sensible programming and we don't believe this tool represents any more risk than other common forms of training.
While I agree with you Sanna, finding wrist wrenches and such are far more stressful due to the position the wrist is placed in when weighed against how much we can target and overload our wrist flexor and extensor muscles, simply hanging passively on a board won’t be targeting this well (and frankly tends to restrict the carpal tunnel and guyons canal).