Mike this looks like it goes into the rear diff what I need are thoses same seals that goes into the drive shaft ends I dont believe I can remove the center piece in the prop shafts at either end of the drive shaft...would a picture be better
Mike I didn't have to loosen the nut to seperate the shaft once is slipped the boot back it came right apart. Once you got the bearing off does it go on easily you dont need a press to put it back on.
Hi - from memory, I think the engineering place (H Chard) pressed the bearing back on for me. I don't imagine it would be that difficult to tap the new bearing on...maybe using a piece of wood with a large hole drilled in it? Let me know how you get on. How did you universal joint feel - notchy? Mike
Mike the U joint looks good. After they pressed it on did they then put on the rubber housing on the bearing. Or did you put it on once you got the shaft back.
Mike I have a question I have a rubber boot covering the spline was your destroyed Also why do you have to loosen the big nut I think my shaft will just seperate without loosen the large nut before I seperate want to make sure I can mark it.
Hi - yes my boot was toast and I bought another one from Mercedes for ££3.52 part 2024110497. These are MUCH more expensive from other sources. The shaft shouldn't separate without loosening that big nut. From memory, the hollow shaft into which the other bit slides had 2 slots cut into it. These slots allow the metal to grip the shaft as you tighten the nut.....The only movement should come from the universal joint.....otherwise your spline would eventually wear out. Mike
I remember watching a video for you when you replaced the centering bushings for the driveshaft (part # 1154100032 for your reference).. if you can please send the link for it.
Hi - do you mean this video?: ua-cam.com/video/dbJZYI-RHr8/v-deo.html It is in the following playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLONqXqFnLGrgtcTrM81301wb_7SPVQ7iL.html Mike
Mike interesting I saw an older comment to you saying the same thing I experienced separating the drive shaft where they didn't have to listen the large nut to seperate the shaft I just loosen the boot and they just separated his was a US 380 and mine is a US 450. Not sure if it is just a coincidence? The nut is tight it is not loose?
The torque spec on that sleeve nut is 30-40nm (although quite difficult to get a torque wrench in there in practice. It is important that the sleeve nut is loose when you reinstall because....once the drive shaft (prop shaft) is installed, you need to drop the car down, sit in it (eg depress the suspension) , roll it back and forwards a few times in order to position the drive shaft and intermediate bearing....then you tighten the sleeve nut and then the bolts holding the intermediate bearing to the chassis. My theory is that sometimes people forget to tighten the sleeve nut after dropping the car down.....and sometimes they cant be bothered to lose the required skin off their knuckles when it comes to torquing this up. Mike
Hi - do you mean part no. 1154100032 If so. I got mine from the SL shop....although I notice they have since doubled in price!! parts.theslshop.com/mercedes-benz-sl-r107-propeller-shaft-coupling-centering-bush-1154100032/ They are actually made by Uro and cost just £8.96 from RockAuto.com. It is well worth taking a moment to look at the Uro parts catalogue as they make a HUGE number of SL parts... apaindustries.com/catalog?make=63&model=802&y1=1973&y2=1973 Mike
Hi Mike, I'm just about to loosen the front section of my prop-shaft and its not clear which way to turn the large 46mm nut to loosen it. Should it be screwed towards the front or back of the car to loosen? I'm trying to do it with my middle box in place and access is extremely tight so I can only turn the nut a fraction at a time and I'm not sure if I'm tightening or loosening it. Engine should come out tomorrow, I'll video that.
Hi - working on the better late than never principal. The section of the propshaft that doesn't have the Universal joint is the section with the nut and this is generally closest to the gearbox. If you were under the car looking towards the engine, you would tighten this nut clockwise and loosen it anticlockwise. On the 280SL's it is generally possible to get the whole propshaft off without ever loosening that nut by jack the gear box up. Engine out - exciting stuff!. Let me know how it goes. Mike
What's strange, on my US spec 84 380sl, I literally pulled the front part of the drive shaft with my hand to get it off, don't know if that's gonna be a issue
Mike this looks like it goes into the rear diff what I need are thoses same seals that goes into the drive shaft ends I dont believe I can remove the center piece in the prop shafts at either end of the drive shaft...would a picture be better
Thank you for these videos.
Thanks for your comment - you are welcome. Mike
Mike I didn't have to loosen the nut to seperate the shaft once is slipped the boot back it came right apart. Once you got the bearing off does it go on easily you dont need a press to put it back on.
Hi - from memory, I think the engineering place (H Chard) pressed the bearing back on for me. I don't imagine it would be that difficult to tap the new bearing on...maybe using a piece of wood with a large hole drilled in it? Let me know how you get on. How did you universal joint feel - notchy? Mike
Mike I you saying that at both ends of the drive shaft the center bushing just pulls out it doesn't look from the picture it uncrews
drop me an email m_scott65@hotmail.com and I'll give you my number. Not sure I'll be able to help...but I'll give it a red hot go.
Mike the U joint looks good. After they pressed it on did they then put on the rubber housing on the bearing. Or did you put it on once you got the shaft back.
From memory - I put the rubber housing on. Mike
Mike I have a question I have a rubber boot covering the spline was your destroyed Also why do you have to loosen the big nut I think my shaft will just seperate without loosen the large nut before I seperate want to make sure I can mark it.
Hi - yes my boot was toast and I bought another one from Mercedes for ££3.52 part 2024110497. These are MUCH more expensive from other sources.
The shaft shouldn't separate without loosening that big nut. From memory, the hollow shaft into which the other bit slides had 2 slots cut into it. These slots allow the metal to grip the shaft as you tighten the nut.....The only movement should come from the universal joint.....otherwise your spline would eventually wear out.
Mike
I remember watching a video for you when you replaced the centering bushings for the driveshaft (part # 1154100032 for your reference).. if you can please send the link for it.
Hi - do you mean this video?:
ua-cam.com/video/dbJZYI-RHr8/v-deo.html
It is in the following playlist:
ua-cam.com/play/PLONqXqFnLGrgtcTrM81301wb_7SPVQ7iL.html
Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars yes, thank you.. I really appreciate your cooperation and support.
Any thoughts
Mike interesting I saw an older comment to you saying the same thing I experienced separating the drive shaft where they didn't have to listen the large nut to seperate the shaft I just loosen the boot and they just separated his was a US 380 and mine is a US 450. Not sure if it is just a coincidence? The nut is tight it is not loose?
The torque spec on that sleeve nut is 30-40nm (although quite difficult to get a torque wrench in there in practice. It is important that the sleeve nut is loose when you reinstall because....once the drive shaft (prop shaft) is installed, you need to drop the car down, sit in it (eg depress the suspension) , roll it back and forwards a few times in order to position the drive shaft and intermediate bearing....then you tighten the sleeve nut and then the bolts holding the intermediate bearing to the chassis. My theory is that sometimes people forget to tighten the sleeve nut after dropping the car down.....and sometimes they cant be bothered to lose the required skin off their knuckles when it comes to torquing this up.
Mike
Mike do you know where I can get the seals that are at each end of the drive shaft looks like an inch in diameter it is rubber with a spring inside
Hi - do you mean part no. 1154100032
If so. I got mine from the SL shop....although I notice they have since doubled in price!!
parts.theslshop.com/mercedes-benz-sl-r107-propeller-shaft-coupling-centering-bush-1154100032/
They are actually made by Uro and cost just £8.96 from RockAuto.com.
It is well worth taking a moment to look at the Uro parts catalogue as they make a HUGE number of SL parts...
apaindustries.com/catalog?make=63&model=802&y1=1973&y2=1973
Mike
Hi Mike, I'm just about to loosen the front section of my prop-shaft and its not clear which way to turn the large 46mm nut to loosen it. Should it be screwed towards the front or back of the car to loosen? I'm trying to do it with my middle box in place and access is extremely tight so I can only turn the nut a fraction at a time and I'm not sure if I'm tightening or loosening it. Engine should come out tomorrow, I'll video that.
Hi - working on the better late than never principal. The section of the propshaft that doesn't have the Universal joint is the section with the nut and this is generally closest to the gearbox. If you were under the car looking towards the engine, you would tighten this nut clockwise and loosen it anticlockwise. On the 280SL's it is generally possible to get the whole propshaft off without ever loosening that nut by jack the gear box up. Engine out - exciting stuff!. Let me know how it goes. Mike
What's strange, on my US spec 84 380sl, I literally pulled the front part of the drive shaft with my hand to get it off, don't know if that's gonna be a issue
Thanks for your comment. That is strange - let me know how it goes putting it back together. Mike
I have an 84 380SL too and i think i need to do this fix, what symptoms did you have out of curiosity? thank you!
Mike I sent you the picture email of the drive shaft
Got it - see my reply. Mike