Mercedes 107 SL rear hub, subframe mounts and control arm bush removal
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- This is a detailed video showing how to remove the hub from the rear control arm on a 1983 Mercedes 280 SL 107 sharp and also how to remove the bearings and races. The video also shows how to remove the rear control arm bushes and the rear subframe mounts. At the end of this video are the two different Febi part numbers and prices for the wheel bearing kits.
What a difficult job. Really does take some special tools and techniques to get the job done properly. Hats off to you for taking it on! 👍
Thanks for you comment really appreciated - definitely not a 5 minute job but if I can do it, anyone can. Half the challenge is having the confidence start the job in the knowledge that you might mess something up. Maybe these videos might just inspire some people to have a go and help them avoid some of the mistakes I made. Mike
Thank you
Great job
I always delete those sheilds I call them the brake overheat sheilds
On the front I attach tube that draw air in and point them towards the rotors ,it works so well one time a tube had come off and upon hard braking in the hills the car began to pull towards the cooled side the brakes performed better on the cooled side the non cooled the heat buildup they were fading badly without the tube.
I make a habit to avoid big puddles if my brakes are hot.
Yep - those dust covers are an expensive pain. Mike
I have a 1975 280SL that I am trying to get road worthy and I appreciate yours channel. I have benefited so much. Thank you. I am trying to reinstall my rear hub but when I do, it is still loose no matter how tight I trighten the inboard nut. No response required but I am anxiously awaiting to see how you press the rear inboard bearings in.
Thanks for your comments. I'll be doing a video on the rear bearings shortly. Did you replace the bearings and the races and if so where did you get them from and what brand are they? Do you think your problem is to do with with the races which tap into the hollow hub on the control arm or the tapered bearings which slide over the stub axle? From memory, the races sit flush against a ridge in the hub and I'm assuming you have replaced these races and used the old ones to tap the new ones in? I havn't actually removed the old bearings off the stub axle yet as I am awaiting a special tool to pull these off. I imagine it is just a tapered fit, but will make measurements before removal to ensure they are slid on far enough. Not sure if these require a hydraulic press or can be tapped on...we'll soon find out. Mike
I bought Timken bearings and races and seals on RockAuto. It was less expensive than buying kits. I tapped the bearings onto the spindle using a pvc "T" joint that happened to be the right size. I used the old races as tools to tap the new races into place. I used a c-clamp to try to press the inboard bearings on. This is where I have an issue. I am curious what you will use to press them in. I am thinking about having my wife hold the wheel while I tap them with a hammer on the axle side. I think you will be using a more legit method.
@@rome288 Hi = OK so if I understand you right, the tapered roller bearing went on no problem. I am assuming the ring with the bulge in the middle which follows the tapered roller bearing also went on no problem. There are at least two reasons I can think of why the races would go all the way in. IF when you were bashing them out, you nicked the rim on which they sit, this would mean they didn't sit flush. You will see a few nicks on my control arm after they were heavy handedly bashed out. The other reason that the races dont sometimes sit flush is if you lubricated them with grease as opposed to oil. The grease can get trapped under the race and prevent it from sitting flush. We'll soon find out how easy mine go in. Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars
Mike, Thank you for you insight. I appreciate advice from a youtube star.😀
I am wondering if the ring with the bulge in it is too big to allow me to seat the inboard bearings. My dad owned this car before me and I have seen lots of poor maintenance done on this car by prior mechanics. After I see you successfully do yours, I will do mine. Rome.
@@rome288 Hi - I could be wrong but usually those rings are one time use rings and the bulge gets bigger as it is squeezed together by virtue of you tightening the hub nut. I will bear ijn mind your ussie when I do mine and hopefully the fottage will help resolve the issue. Mike
Is it possible to change the rear subframe mounts with the subframe still on the car?
Also the bolts seem to be seized - any recommendations. Thank you so much - great content
Hello - I believe it is possible to change the mounts without complete removal. Have you tried using an electric impact wrench on those bolts. Sometimes the knocking action of the driver breaks the rust seal. I use the DeWalt battery wrench…..and it changed my life…..Mike
Hi Mike, I’m a new owner of a 1976 450sl. I am in need of rear subframe mounts and am really hoping to replace this with the subframe still in the car. From your experience would I be able to replace the “donuts” as you mention in another video while this is still in the car?
Hello - the answer is 'maybe'. First you need to jack one side of the car up high and put it on blocks. Then put a jack under the shock absorber of the rear control arm to support it as you undo the mount bolts. Then undo the two small bolts which hold on the subframe mount bracket FIRST. Next undo the large bolt. As you lower the jack, the subframe will come away from the car and you may have enough clearance to swap out the doughnuts. In my experience, the doughnuts are usually OK - its the actual mounts that are perished.These can be really awkward to get out and I think if I was trying to do it in situ, I would get the special 'puller' that slots in the mount grooves.Give it a go - if you cant get enough clearance, you can always just jack the control up and put the mount bolts back in. Mike