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Just wanted to let you know that I'm buying a Migro from you because of your continued commitment to grow research man, never felt better to buy a light!
This is an awesome test! First time I've seen this done! Very awesome and informative.. of course, one of the other can be used without any issues.. but this is very informative to someone who really wants to maximize photons to plant canopy! Very awesome! And quick to the point. You are awesome, Shane!
I've seen some tests on this before. When I did my grow closet, it was off-white primer, and quite dirty. After the first grow cycle and cleaning, I rolled on 2 coats of satin white, Immediately noticed the difference as I was painting with a small work light. When in doubt, or on a budget, roll on some white paint, if all else fails, the place will at least look cleaner.
Very interesting with the white reflecting in all directions rather than the mylar being able to keep photons going toward the plant.. not elsewhere.. very awesome
Diamond pattern helps with that. Not all mylar is as effective. Which is why he stated it. I think the drop of is up to 10% in comparison to other mylar types. 10 being an higher estimation to the reality... I was glad to see this as I'm about to get a 8x4 from northerscrogger. Which is partially where my question of heat levels comes from. Though he thinks that the white is more efficient. He swears by the heat being less of a thing with the white walls. And a 1% loss I'd happily deal with the outcomes I think?
@@B.White70 Actually I think the diamond pattern makes the mylar have less directive reflections (closer to white surface). But regardless of that increased scattering, it's better to have that diamond texture to avoid lensing/hot-spots.
Yeah, good test and both surfaces work well. But did you know that there is one YT channel with videos showing that white is superior surface. They base that statement on their test showing that with white surfaces there's more light *above* the light fixture...🤦🏻♂️. What do you need the light there for 😂? But of course the test is correct and shows the white surface scattering the light more (also to where you don't want it).
@@tkermi agree to disagree.... I have a few different types. Which is why I'm willing to try the white tents. Only difference for me now is stronger lights in a smaller tent. Smh...lol. Though you're spot on about the hot spots aspect of it all
Initially that was my take away too. But then he said something about HIDs getting a 15% improvement with Mylar. I think what he’s saying is that distance and intensity have a cumulative affect depending on the light source. I use the free app for my phone and it really helped me dial in my lights better than before. Photone, and you make a light diffuser with a plain piece of copy paper. 💚💚💚✌️🥳🍀
I use the bladders from wine casks as reflectors. They seem to multiply in my house 😆, so I recycle them & put them to good use. Haven't done PAR tests but they cost nothing & seem to work well.
hi Shane, have you done any testing og homebox solution of reflective walls called par + vs diamond mylar vs stucco etc on led growlights with fullspec + monochrome smds and or is it any difference using par + than regular white gardner plastic reflective material like they state about leds especially ould benefit from par + ? ive owned 1 but did never finish any flowerings in my 80 x 80 x 180 par + ambient tent as i had a larger silverline tent i transferred my grows to from the par + tent
Good point to bring up about side wall reflections also being used better with a lower hanging height due to better LED spread. The crossover spread your Migro lights put out defy physics compared to my regular panels spaced out. Not to mention the extra vertical space you can use with those.
I actually just got done with 4 coats of flat white in my prop cabinet. Super bright. For the coast of one gallon of white primer sealer, Compared to the cost of the Mylar, It’s a no brainer
Held my breath throughout… happy with the results as I use white walls… much nicer environment for humans than the silver… better for spotting insects too 🦠🪱💚👊✌️🙏
Orca reflective sheeting is Without doubt the best. Second to that I found Tyvek house wrap to be almost as uniform. They both feel like the same material. Also Titanium contents in flat white paint differ in strength's so cheap white paint not as good as expensive. Would love to see a Orca v Tyvek comparison JKP.
Flat white paint has proven to be better than mylar or white black panda sheeting. Both produce hot spots. PS, I'm convinced Orca reflective sheeting is really made from Tyvek. Cant beat Orca reflective sheeting and Miro reflector. Expensive.
Hey Shane I had an interesting question... Or maybe it's quite boring haha. How much of an impact do you think air circulation from fans have when they blow and rustle mylar on the inside of the walls? Sometimes I notice it can move pretty frantically haha
Hello Shane, hope all is good with you! I was wondering if you could answer one question I have about my Aray Pro. I was wondering what material or compound is used between the LED PCB and aluminium heatsink? I would like to know if this can be replaced for different thermal compound with the hope of decreasing the temperature within the LEDs and equalising the temperature even further. I would love to hear what you think on this idea. Thanks and take care!
Hi, it is a large surface area so a high performance paste is not needed. We use a non-drying thermally conductive paste. It contains no silicone, and is based on a synthetic base-stock. It does not deteriorate and would not really benefit from an upgrade for performance.
I sure would like one of them Spot on sensors. Amazon dosen't sell them, so I downloaded the photon app. Question... why was it you placed a paper filter on your last comparison test? You forgot to mention that. Thanks for all you do 🌱☘
Hi Shane. Have you ever thought about a test in relation to daisy chained systems? For example I know the maxibright daylight 660w can be interlocked and it would be helpful to know what the optimal distance would be for both distance between light and distance from the canopy. Cheers.
Hello Shane. Thank you for the top quality content. I would really like if you could make a vid recommending UVB lights for small spaces (60cm x 60cm). The Migro UVB 310 seems great but would be overkill in such a small space. Thx.
Late reply: Long read: For IR/UV you can use CFL bulbs (with splitters for extra bulbs, if desired). Standard bayonet or E27 fixtures (normal household lamp) usually handle 40w - buts that’s incandescent wattage, meanwhile smaller lamp sizes (e14 etc) use smaller wattage. I think 20w is maximum CFL for e14, and 23-28w is the max CFL for e27 lamps. The e39/40 fixture take higher wattage, but they’re not common lamps in households. 40 incandescent watts is about 9 CFL watts. So you can use up to 4 bulb/splitters to equal an avg 40w. I’m using 4 x 23w. CFL cool white for veg, warm white for flower. Because warm white has a higher ratio of IR/UV (far red). CFLs cost up to 80% cheaper than dedicated IR/UV bulbs and can be run continuous as supplement side lighting throughout the whole grow. Whereas IR/UV bulbs can only be run for a few hours a day… and again, cost almost 100x more.
Migro delivers them prof. results again! The refraction of the two is Very interesting,I'm curious about how comparison of bar style,quantum,and even far red and UV differ under varying heights OR the reflectivity of each. Great video Migro! U keep an ADHD man leaning forward with interest,bravo👏🤙👍
I would really like to see someone test the gloss-vs-matte hypothesis. While "matt[e] is better than gloss" is certainly the accepted wisdom in this arena, in others it is the opposite, and in all cases the mechanistic explanations are lacking, or thin and unconvincing. I might have to do it myself, since I do have a PAR meter and some lights.
But did you test the heat levels between the two as well? Heard that there's around a five degree difference from white to mylar. Can you prove or disprove that side of the debate? Ty in advance if you address my question.
Nice. As always, a pristine presentation. And I agree the diamond Mylar is best. But better to have something than letting the light just bounce away and dissipate into the room. And for a super cheap alternative, a scrunched up Mylar survival blanket can be applied to 2-3 large foam project boards and hinged with duct tape to easily make a sweet set of folding reflectors. Spray adhesive will do the trick to make it stick. Then you can conform it tightly to your growing area, and move them out of the way for maintenance, watering, etc. 💚💚💚✌️🥳
Hi, Shane. Excellent comparison. is Migro also preparing pure blue light (6500k) for cuttings and vegetative phases? otherwise absolutely great Migro lights. I use them in all boxes. thanks for the reply. David
There is another way to get more than both the white or the "shiny" mylar, but you couldn't line a tent with it. It's hard to explain. I compared using sunlight and the reflection increased almost 300 micromoles. If I remember, it went from 2100 to 2400 micromoles. Aluminum alloy.
Any thoughts/test on the new SANLIGHT EVO series? Seems pretty good: 1x1m: 2x Sanlight Evo3-100: 389 W average 967µmol/m²/s minimum: 855µmol/m²/s maximum:1.102µmol/m²/s homogeneity: 88% USABLE: --> 2,49µmol/J +Ip65+secondary optics+extremely good build quality
Thanks for the info and good test! Both surfaces work well. But did you know that there is one YT channel with videos showing that white is superior surface... They base that statement on their test showing that with white surfaces there's more light *above* the light fixture...🤦🏻♂️. What do you need the light there for 😂? But of course the test is correct and shows the white surface scattering the light more (also to where you don't want it).
This is with open top.If u close the light in a box u get different results...mylar almost the same,with white u get better results if u do the test properly.
Part of me says, "good enough", and use whatever you have. Part of me says, "thank you", and don't leave money on the table not getting all the light you paid to use. Nice job!
dont know if you noticed but center values were higher with white walls. ill bet high gloss white paint would work better. i was shocked at the results of this test. awesome test/ i myself always believed the white walls work best.
I agree I use bear. Flat white with the 1st coat killz and a fungicide. The price point for Mylar vrs flat white is a no brainer and negligible anyway.
Sorry you need to redo you used plain white you should be using ultra white much better then mylar 80% brighter then mylar....try ultra white not plain white
@@hoodpatrolstrains1010 mirrors reflect infrared light and reflects a ton of heat around the grow room. Sounds like a logical choice but it’s not. You’ll wind up with many focused hot spots. And boost your temps higher than what’s optimal. But hey it’s your money your grow . Get you some killz some fungicide and baer flat white paint and you’re good to go while still having a fat stack of cash in your pocket.
@@timpage5021 i have mirrors in my veg And been growwing since 94.. If you have a high par setting and paint the room mirror then yeah but my room is not crazy.... and ill be placing them below the canopy
A difference of this magnitude really doesn't seem significant. I suspect it to be well within the margin of error, resulting from slight differences in exact placement of the measuring-device between tests, maybe slightly different angles in the walls between tests, and soon. I think your reasoning why diffusively reflecting materials perform worse is flawed. Here is why: (I just posted the following comment under your previous videos comparing different sheeting-materials, before I saw that you uploaded this video here just a week ago...) I think you should test the orca-sheeting again, but with an updated methodology to better simulate a real-life setup for growing. The setup in which you tested the orca-sheeting in your prior videos seems severely biased against the orca-sheeting for several reasons. I'm currently trying to figure out what kind of sheeting I should get, and it seems like the Lighthouse sheeting would be a good idea, but I'm not yet convinced that it beats the orca sheeting. This is my reasoning: 1.) The orca-sheeting doesn't cover the entirety of the walls, neither vertically nor horizontally. 1.a) The gaps at the corners are bound to swallow a significant amount of photons. 1.b) The missing orca-film above the lighting fixture is bound to result in upward-reflected photons (reflected from the orca sheeting) being bounced almost exclusively towards the top. If there was a diffuse sheeting / diffuse scattering above the lighting fixture, many of the photons which initially get scattered upwards by the orca would subsequently be scattered back down again. 1.c) The open wall on one side (to take measurements) might also impact the results of the orca-sheeting more than non-diffuse materials. I don't know whether this is the case, but I don't think one should discount the possibility. It would also be possible to close the fourth wall for testing-purposes simply by using an elevated floor with holes at the locations of measurement. A fair and thorough comparison of different sheeting-materials would require covering all of the walls and the ceiling equally, and without gaps (apart from tent-poles and the usual stuff inside a tent like vent-openings). IMO even the floor should in part be covered with the material in question, to most closely simulate a life-like environment, i.e. filled with plants but not overcrowded. I really think you should take this into consideration in your comparisons. You try to be very thorough in your analyses, and I highly appreciate your content. But your reasoning why non-diffuse materials should be better seems severely flawed when considering a real-life environment, i.e. inside a space completely covered with the same reflective sheeting on at least 4 sides, most likely 5 or 6 (ceiling and floor).
Hi, Shane here. Thanks for watching, Please hit the like button and subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@MIGROLIGHT?sub_confirmation=1
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Just wanted to let you know that I'm buying a Migro from you because of your continued commitment to grow research man, never felt better to buy a light!
same here, just organizing some final (financial) details.
How about vs. panda film
This is an awesome test! First time I've seen this done! Very awesome and informative.. of course, one of the other can be used without any issues.. but this is very informative to someone who really wants to maximize photons to plant canopy! Very awesome! And quick to the point. You are awesome, Shane!
I've seen some tests on this before. When I did my grow closet, it was off-white primer, and quite dirty. After the first grow cycle and cleaning, I rolled on 2 coats of satin white, Immediately noticed the difference as I was painting with a small work light. When in doubt, or on a budget, roll on some white paint, if all else fails, the place will at least look cleaner.
I just went back to your channel to find a similar video you did like 3 years ago! So glad to see this today- keep up the great work my man!!
Very interesting with the white reflecting in all directions rather than the mylar being able to keep photons going toward the plant.. not elsewhere.. very awesome
Diamond pattern helps with that. Not all mylar is as effective. Which is why he stated it. I think the drop of is up to 10% in comparison to other mylar types. 10 being an higher estimation to the reality...
I was glad to see this as I'm about to get a 8x4 from northerscrogger.
Which is partially where my question of heat levels comes from. Though he thinks that the white is more efficient. He swears by the heat being less of a thing with the white walls.
And a 1% loss I'd happily deal with the outcomes I think?
@@B.White70 Actually I think the diamond pattern makes the mylar have less directive reflections (closer to white surface). But regardless of that increased scattering, it's better to have that diamond texture to avoid lensing/hot-spots.
Yeah, good test and both surfaces work well. But did you know that there is one YT channel with videos showing that white is superior surface. They base that statement on their test showing that with white surfaces there's more light *above* the light fixture...🤦🏻♂️.
What do you need the light there for 😂? But of course the test is correct and shows the white surface scattering the light more (also to where you don't want it).
@@tkermi agree to disagree....
I have a few different types. Which is why I'm willing to try the white tents. Only difference for me now is stronger lights in a smaller tent. Smh...lol.
Though you're spot on about the hot spots aspect of it all
Great video! I've wondered this myself. Was planning on adding silver mylar but now I see the improvement isn't that much over matte white.
Initially that was my take away too. But then he said something about HIDs getting a 15% improvement with Mylar. I think what he’s saying is that distance and intensity have a cumulative affect depending on the light source. I use the free app for my phone and it really helped me dial in my lights better than before. Photone, and you make a light diffuser with a plain piece of copy paper. 💚💚💚✌️🥳🍀
Less risk of mould too. I always used to use antifungal paint as well. Available from any agricultural outlet
@@petergill4744 neat! I didn't even know that was a thing.
Thanks for the great work, I'm early but Merry Christmas and Happy New Year !
Looking forward to new Migro Tech in 2022.
Peace
There's a new special super white paint that has been made that will be a game changer for many industries...wonder how that would compare
Guess it's still sort of in the research phase but it absorbs 5-10x less light than normal white paints, reflects 98%+ of light
I've seen articles saying that there's a possibility to eliminate up to 80% of AC cooling requirements if the paint was used on roofs
Versatility in all areas of lumens association.Very interesting!Thankyou!
My reporpused closet is coverd with a thin layer of white styropor I had left over from renewing the floor, seems to reflect pretty good.
Thank you for everything you do bud
Great video as always Shane
I remember reading a ask Ed book and dude saying clean styrofoam was 99% reflective.
I use the bladders from wine casks as reflectors. They seem to multiply in my house 😆, so I recycle them & put them to good use. Haven't done PAR tests but they cost nothing & seem to work well.
You should try the new ultra white paint that the university just made up with barium sulfate. Could be a game-changer for grow rooms
hi Shane, have you done any testing og homebox solution of reflective walls called par + vs diamond mylar vs stucco etc on led growlights with fullspec + monochrome smds and or is it any difference using par + than regular white gardner plastic reflective material like they state about leds especially ould benefit from par + ? ive owned 1 but did never finish any flowerings in my 80 x 80 x 180 par + ambient tent as i had a larger silverline tent i transferred my grows to from the par + tent
Great experiment Shane! Could you please do one with matte white vs gloss white?
In x Ray all we want is primary beam waste and scatter is useless just like waste. On the spot on par sensor definitely like the video Thankyou
Good point to bring up about side wall reflections also being used better with a lower hanging height due to better LED spread. The crossover spread your Migro lights put out defy physics compared to my regular panels spaced out. Not to mention the extra vertical space you can use with those.
I actually just got done with 4 coats of flat white in my prop cabinet.
Super bright.
For the coast of one gallon of white primer sealer,
Compared to the cost of the Mylar,
It’s a no brainer
Thank you for reassuring myself it was a good choice
can you do mylar against white pvc or pvu sheeting. black on one side and white on the other side???
Held my breath throughout… happy with the results as I use white walls… much nicer environment for humans than the silver… better for spotting insects too 🦠🪱💚👊✌️🙏
I didn't think about spotting pests
Orca reflective sheeting is Without doubt the best. Second to that I found Tyvek house wrap to be almost as uniform. They both feel like the same material. Also Titanium contents in flat white paint differ in strength's so cheap white paint not as good as expensive.
Would love to see a Orca v Tyvek comparison
JKP.
Flat white paint has proven to be better than mylar or white black panda sheeting. Both produce hot spots.
PS, I'm convinced Orca reflective sheeting is really made from Tyvek.
Cant beat Orca reflective sheeting and Miro reflector.
Expensive.
Hey Shane I had an interesting question... Or maybe it's quite boring haha. How much of an impact do you think air circulation from fans have when they blow and rustle mylar on the inside of the walls? Sometimes I notice it can move pretty frantically haha
Thank you, I have wondered what the results of this comparison test would be.
Any chance that you will review the szhlux sz-pt4000
Hello Shane, hope all is good with you!
I was wondering if you could answer one question I have about my Aray Pro.
I was wondering what material or compound is used between the LED PCB and aluminium heatsink? I would like to know if this can be replaced for different thermal compound with the hope of decreasing the temperature within the LEDs and equalising the temperature even further. I would love to hear what you think on this idea. Thanks and take care!
Hi, it is a large surface area so a high performance paste is not needed. We use a non-drying thermally conductive paste. It contains no silicone, and is based on a synthetic base-stock. It does not deteriorate and would not really benefit from an upgrade for performance.
@@MIGROLIGHT Thanks.
I sure would like one of them Spot on sensors. Amazon dosen't sell them, so I downloaded the photon app.
Question... why was it you placed a paper filter on your last comparison test? You forgot to mention that. Thanks for all you do 🌱☘
Another great video Shane we appreciate it.
I would love a white emulsion with a typica spacle..
Hi Shane.
Have you ever thought about a test in relation to daisy chained systems? For example I know the maxibright daylight 660w can be interlocked and it would be helpful to know what the optimal distance would be for both distance between light and distance from the canopy.
Cheers.
Hello Shane. Thank you for the top quality content. I would really like if you could make a vid recommending UVB lights for small spaces (60cm x 60cm). The Migro UVB 310 seems great but would be overkill in such a small space. Thx.
Late reply: Long read:
For IR/UV you can use CFL bulbs (with splitters for extra bulbs, if desired).
Standard bayonet or E27 fixtures (normal household lamp) usually handle 40w - buts that’s incandescent wattage, meanwhile smaller lamp sizes (e14 etc) use smaller wattage. I think 20w is maximum CFL for e14, and 23-28w is the max CFL for e27 lamps. The e39/40 fixture take higher wattage, but they’re not common lamps in households.
40 incandescent watts is about 9 CFL watts. So you can use up to 4 bulb/splitters to equal an avg 40w. I’m using 4 x 23w. CFL cool white for veg, warm white for flower. Because warm white has a higher ratio of IR/UV (far red). CFLs cost up to 80% cheaper than dedicated IR/UV bulbs and can be run continuous as supplement side lighting throughout the whole grow. Whereas IR/UV bulbs can only be run for a few hours a day… and again, cost almost 100x more.
Migro delivers them prof. results again! The refraction of the two is Very interesting,I'm curious about how comparison of bar style,quantum,and even far red and UV differ under varying heights OR the reflectivity of each. Great video Migro! U keep an ADHD man leaning forward with interest,bravo👏🤙👍
I always assumed Matt emulsion was light absorbent and vinyl silk light reflective.
I wonder how the white would fare if you used gloss white against the Mylar film ? I realy like theese kinds of vidieos
That’s one good looking light in the test!
I would really like to see someone test the gloss-vs-matte hypothesis. While "matt[e] is better than gloss" is certainly the accepted wisdom in this arena, in others it is the opposite, and in all cases the mechanistic explanations are lacking, or thin and unconvincing. I might have to do it myself, since I do have a PAR meter and some lights.
Hi,
We done a test video on it a couple of years ago now I think, search the videos on our channel and you will find it.
Thanks.
But did you test the heat levels between the two as well?
Heard that there's around a five degree difference from white to mylar. Can you prove or disprove that side of the debate?
Ty in advance if you address my question.
Whats the light in the test? Looks gorgeous
I wonder about those white grow tents if they are better than regular mylar.
What about black walls for reference?
Nice. As always, a pristine presentation. And I agree the diamond Mylar is best. But better to have something than letting the light just bounce away and dissipate into the room. And for a super cheap alternative, a scrunched up Mylar survival blanket can be applied to 2-3 large foam project boards and hinged with duct tape to easily make a sweet set of folding reflectors. Spray adhesive will do the trick to make it stick. Then you can conform it tightly to your growing area, and move them out of the way for maintenance, watering, etc. 💚💚💚✌️🥳
I agree, any mylar type materials will do👍
Hi, Shane. Excellent comparison. is Migro also preparing pure blue light (6500k) for cuttings and vegetative phases? otherwise absolutely great Migro lights. I use them in all boxes. thanks for the reply. David
There is another way to get more than both the white or the "shiny" mylar,
but you couldn't line a tent with it. It's hard to explain. I compared using sunlight and the reflection increased almost 300 micromoles.
If I remember, it went from 2100 to 2400 micromoles. Aluminum alloy.
white costs £20 more than the silver version in grow tents, BudBox at least.
I've grown with both 100% white tent
Why not use mirrors?
always wondered this thx you so much migro
Any thoughts/test on the new SANLIGHT EVO series?
Seems pretty good:
1x1m:
2x Sanlight Evo3-100:
389 W
average 967µmol/m²/s
minimum: 855µmol/m²/s
maximum:1.102µmol/m²/s
homogeneity: 88%
USABLE: --> 2,49µmol/J
+Ip65+secondary optics+extremely good build quality
Migro do you read your comments? I have been asking for your opinion on a certain brand light for months and you haven't even Acknowledged me
Always great work, thanks.
Good to know thanks for your time
He said higher hanging Myler is better but white walls are just as good in lower hangin area rooms also
What would be your recommended wait time to allow the paint to dry before placing any green life inside of the painted area???
Just a few hours, emulsion does not emit dangerous fumes
Panda paper vs anything.. I built my grows room with orca.
hi shane, whats your thoughts on survival blanket,they are a cheep camping sheet,or for a tramper
They are made of mylar so they should work perfectly👍
great insight.. thanks Shane
What's up great test
Thanks for the info and good test! Both surfaces work well. But did you know that there is one YT channel with videos showing that white is superior surface... They base that statement on their test showing that with white surfaces there's more light *above* the light fixture...🤦🏻♂️.
What do you need the light there for 😂? But of course the test is correct and shows the white surface scattering the light more (also to where you don't want it).
@WhatsApp+①③⓪⑦②⑥④②④⑧⑧ Well, isn't that wonderful... 🤖🤡
This is with open top.If u close the light in a box u get different results...mylar almost the same,with white u get better results if u do the test properly.
Part of me says, "good enough", and use whatever you have. Part of me says, "thank you", and don't leave money on the table not getting all the light you paid to use. Nice job!
I'm hanginging your light at 6 inches.... I thought that was minimum hanginging
Great test.. thanks
Test the photo bio Mx it kills mate
dont know if you noticed but center values were higher with white walls. ill bet high gloss white paint would work better. i was shocked at the results of this test. awesome test/ i myself always believed the white walls work best.
Thank you
No way mylar will beat my ultra white matte flat white by Valspar paint.. Just wayyy too bright 😆
I agree
I use bear. Flat white with the 1st coat killz and a fungicide. The price point for Mylar vrs flat white is a no brainer and negligible anyway.
Great vid as awlays
Sorry you need to redo you used plain white you should be using ultra white much better then mylar 80% brighter then mylar....try ultra white not plain white
Im gonna run mirror around my room 😉
Not a good idea.
@@timpage5021 body style mirrors not like a funhouse... IT WORKS BETTER you can watch it go down.... 😉
@@hoodpatrolstrains1010 mirrors reflect infrared light and reflects a ton of heat around the grow room. Sounds like a logical choice but it’s not. You’ll wind up with many focused hot spots. And boost your temps higher than what’s optimal. But hey it’s your money your grow . Get you some killz some fungicide and baer flat white paint and you’re good to go while still having a fat stack of cash in your pocket.
@@timpage5021 i have mirrors in my veg
And been growwing since 94.. If you have a high par setting and paint the room mirror then yeah but my room is not crazy.... and ill be placing them below the canopy
Thank you for your continuing effort and dedication to the "cause". Compliments from Portugal
A difference of this magnitude really doesn't seem significant. I suspect it to be well within the margin of error, resulting from slight differences in exact placement of the measuring-device between tests, maybe slightly different angles in the walls between tests, and soon.
I think your reasoning why diffusively reflecting materials perform worse is flawed.
Here is why: (I just posted the following comment under your previous videos comparing different sheeting-materials, before I saw that you uploaded this video here just a week ago...)
I think you should test the orca-sheeting again, but with an updated methodology to better simulate a real-life setup for growing.
The setup in which you tested the orca-sheeting in your prior videos seems severely biased against the orca-sheeting for several reasons.
I'm currently trying to figure out what kind of sheeting I should get, and it seems like the Lighthouse sheeting would be a good idea, but I'm not yet convinced that it beats the orca sheeting.
This is my reasoning:
1.) The orca-sheeting doesn't cover the entirety of the walls, neither vertically nor horizontally.
1.a) The gaps at the corners are bound to swallow a significant amount of photons.
1.b) The missing orca-film above the lighting fixture is bound to result in upward-reflected photons (reflected from the orca sheeting) being bounced almost exclusively towards the top. If there was a diffuse sheeting / diffuse scattering above the lighting fixture, many of the photons which initially get scattered upwards by the orca would subsequently be scattered back down again.
1.c) The open wall on one side (to take measurements) might also impact the results of the orca-sheeting more than non-diffuse materials. I don't know whether this is the case, but I don't think one should discount the possibility. It would also be possible to close the fourth wall for testing-purposes simply by using an elevated floor with holes at the locations of measurement.
A fair and thorough comparison of different sheeting-materials would require covering all of the walls and the ceiling equally, and without gaps (apart from tent-poles and the usual stuff inside a tent like vent-openings). IMO even the floor should in part be covered with the material in question, to most closely simulate a life-like environment, i.e. filled with plants but not overcrowded.
I really think you should take this into consideration in your comparisons. You try to be very thorough in your analyses, and I highly appreciate your content. But your reasoning why non-diffuse materials should be better seems severely flawed when considering a real-life environment, i.e. inside a space completely covered with the same reflective sheeting on at least 4 sides, most likely 5 or 6 (ceiling and floor).
Mylar 1680D ¿
Send someone a array to do a review of your invention in a cannabis grow. Surely you can afford one small donation in the name of science
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My Bhoy🍀🇮🇪☘✊🏻💡💡💡
First!