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Broken Brake Lights & Bodgery
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Розмір відео:
- Опубліковано 4 сер 2023
- I have a look at some of the faults on my Morris Minor 1000, plus a few words on field repairs to get you home.
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Nothing more satisfying than fixing a problem using ones initiative.
I did the old washer bottle dodge once. The bottle was mounted on the bulkhead with a manual squirter (to use the technical term) under the dash. I just connected the outlet from the bottle to the carb and relied on gravity feed. It seemed to work quite well. Thank goodness for petrol tank drain plugs.
I always enjoy your videos, and am not averse to a bit of bodgery myself! Keep it up, and I think your channel will become very successful.😀
You're so easy to listen to, dry wit and everything. Very entertaining, Love bodge-related things too. Picturesque country lanes. Wins everywhere!
Thanks for watching, and for the feed back, its much appreciated.
Great video keep up the good work...
Make do and mend, a sterling attribute once the norm nowaday sadly lacking.
If you have any spare house MCBs (circuit breakers) you can use them as switches. My car overheated because the relay for the electric radiator fan failed. I rigged up some thick wire and a 40 amp MCB and have that in the glove box to switch the fan manually.
The oddest bit of 'get you home' bodgery must have some colleagues of mine in the Middle East back in the early 80s who took their semi-derelict old Land Rover out into the rocky desert for a weekend camping trip. HT leads burnt out in the middle of nowhere. A local managed to fix it temporarily with some kind of bendy salty green branches from a desert shrub that they had found conducted electricity - which worked well enough to get them to a garage.
That's incredibly inventive bodgery!😂
Now that is a good one! Thanks for sharing.
I've just replaced the brake light stop switch and didn't need to bleed the brakes as placed a thin polythene bag over the master cylinder cap and put it back on causing a vacuum. Swopped over switch but just be careful and hold the Tee box connection with pliers so it doesn't twist whilst undoing the switch. It maybe a 9/16th socket (22mil on new replacement). I pulled off the heater hose and got access with 2 bar extentions onto the old switch to get it loose and had the new one to hand and quickly put the new one in without any fluid loss. Tightened up, attached electric wires. Polythene bag removed from master cylinder, level checked and job done. 👍
I've always got a collection of these jobs. Normally a last minute rush come MOT time. Always feels nice getting them sorted though. Currently have a grumbling thrust-bearing and a heavy clutch oh and the handbrake warning light stuck on. Oh, well :)
The current crop of brake light switches are awful quality and don’t last long with the power demand of two bulbs - so what I have done is used the new switch as a switched side of a relay and feed the lights directly from a live feed from the started solenoid via the relay - did the same with the head lights and dipped beams and horns - put them on a small plate on the elephants trunk. One I sorted out the terrible earths the light have been permanently bright and reliable for five years - oh I made sure the relays were fused as lets be fair the morris fuses are not good enough!
Iv also head this before, I will probably replace it as is for now, but if it doesn’t last look at other options!
In that location you should be able to swap in the new pressure switch without risk of admitting air in to the brake line. Do it swiftly as fluid is emanating due to gravity from the master cyl above. It won't gush out nor can air get it as fluid emerges.
The thought had crossed my mind! The master cylinder is actually lower than this point (in the chassis rail) so it won’t flow out, may just swap quick and test!
@@badgerlodgegarage OK bottom hung pedals. Sorry I had overlooked that arrangement . However given the m/cyl position it may be an idea to first raise the rear of the car to a level where the fluid reservoir is at least slightly higher than the offending pressure switch before swapping in the new one. BTW I do enjoy your videos particulary of the Relaint as I have had various of its small sucessors and currently have two early Rialtos in my eclectic classic fleet as well as an 1938 Austin Seven sports with the Reliant 850 red top engine and box. Vids are on my channel. The alloy Reliant engines are a thing of joy when well looked after. That was a truly dreadful one you took apart. Oddly despite having had scores of classics including several of the earlier Morris 10 series Ms I have never owned a Morris Minor hence my ignorance about the m/cyl location.
@@chriswybrew1740 thanks very much for watching and your suggestions, may well give it a go! Sounds like you have some interesting vehicles, I shall go and have a look at your channel. The reliant engine is truly a wonderful unit.
And Thanks again your your brake switch suggestion, it’s always appreciated if it makes life easier!
Good video! It would be very interesting if you done a video fixing the brake light switch and all that's involved. Sounds alot more to it than the one I had on my Triumph vitesse, that was a doddle to do.
I will definitely be filming it!
I used to carry bits of wire and the odd switches and tape with me and i also had my morris minor brake light switch pack up when i was a long way from home.. i used a switch that i had used for a horn when my horn button broke,2 longish lengths of wire connected to the brake light switch and taped the switch to my door handle so whenever i had to brake i just operated the switch and got home ok.
Nice one, thanks for sharing!
The new brake light switches are awful and don’t last more than a few months - they can’t take the current from the two bulbs. What I did was make a plate and mount a few fused relays fed from a spare tag of the starter solenoid live - I also set up relays for the horns, and headlamps and to be fair they are a massive improvement been using them for five years without problems. I just reused the standard feeds and as the switching circuit - one I sorted out decent brass earths all is good and bright. I do not trust the standard Morris fuses!
So I guess the bodge to get home with a broken brake light switch is to turn the sidelights on every time you brake?
That would have been a sensible thing to mention!
I have nothing against the use of cable ties and duct tape, I always carry both in my 12 year old Fiat and they do come in handy occasionaly, such as when the window regulator failed, tape the window shut in a supermarket car park!!