Just bought a 87 crew cab dually, for the purpose of moving all my toys down south, and going over it to make it reliable. This is a great video to help with road fixes. My question, in a pinch, can you hotwire that test lead to get the pump working, til the next auto parts store?
Chilton manual says I should have a red, orange, black, gray, and green wire coming out of relay...... of course I have red, orange, black, PINK and green on my 90 2500 series Silverado and I can't find that test connection. Manual says drivers side firewall. Glad you said one wire will have constant power (which I found out) because the manual says a test light will glow when you turn the key. I get the 2 second glow from the green wire.
Thank you very much . too much knowledge for tbi in nice short video thank you and god bliss you i have r2500 3/4 ton GMC 1987 tbi 454 th400 and less information and tips in the youtube for this model 😅 And I appreciate to see some body take about something similar I appreciate . from qatar 🇶🇦
See I have this problem, mine sat for a year while I was in away Montana, now I've replaced the fuel pump, it'll fire when I poor fuel in the TBI, dies and when I stop cranking the fuel pump kicks on fir a second, but I get no fuel pump prime when I first turn on my ignition, so it won't start on its own power. It is verrry frustrating to find out
i have a 87 gmc 4x4 short bed that my son and i built, it has been parkered for 2 years. this is a great help for me after he moved out. i dont have anyone to help me. but if the relay licks.. is it bad? ill tay ur bypass and see if it pump trob.
Im having long starting issues but will start . I can't hear the pump with the ignition so im suspecting it is the relay. Did your truck ever randomly shut off after driving 20 minutes or so but will restart
Recently i changed my fuel pump and i tried starting it but didnt start so i check underneath the dash where all the chips were and changed out the idle and it started and i manage to drive it for a while id say a month and a couple weeks but suddenly one day it didnt wanna start it just cranks and idk what it could be i thought it was the chips under the dash but i checked and they were good but that didnt help still does the same thing and i dont think its the fuel pump because its new and changed it im wonder if its the fuel relay but then thing is i dont know much about mechanics is it located in the same place in a 1987 r10 or do i have to look somewhere else?
So I had my negative battery cable on the fuel pump junction block on one of the ground screw mounted on the firewall, and when I go to connect the battery I kept getting spark and repeatedly did it, and I finally moved the negative battery terminal from there and regrounded it, when i turn key to on position, now my fuel pump not turning on do you think I shorted the relay? The sending unit still works fine
It's possible, but from the way you explain it unlikely. Maybe the relay was bad from the start. Does your relay harness have a 'test or jumper wire' ?? if so apply power to test the circuit. If it works, then try a relay.
I'm having the issue where the ecmb10 fuse keeps blowing put in a new oil pressure switch and it was ok for a moment. Blew the fuse again. I'll follow the steps in this video
can I bypass computer with the test lead and run my pump off of that I done a tbi to carb swap nobody tells everything needed in the wiring, my thought was a low oil pressure switch 3 pole hot to normally open and one to normally closed normally closed would be for keyed with a monetary prime button then once it starts the open circut closes once oil pressure builds and opens the keyed circut if I understand the low pressure saftey switch! any advice
@@AxlesGarage thanks. I didn’t think there was one but somebody told me there was one because I wasn’t Getting fuel but I found a split ground wire under the truck which was the issue. Thanks for the reply
@@markneri2955my 75 Chevy isn’t getting fuel and fuel pump I have is pretty new so I don’t think it’s that. Where should I look for the wire u talked about?
Well done, thanks
Thanks for watching
That is pretty nice “step side”..
Great video, thank you sir.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much help tips god bliss too much knowledge in this short video
You are most welcome
Very helpful video, don't know if this is my problem but good information.
Best of luck
My truck has 2 relay but 1 tank why
Thanks for the tip. I'm an old county employee from Conway now up in the mountains working on my 89 Suburban.
Very cool!
Just bought a 87 crew cab dually, for the purpose of moving all my toys down south, and going over it to make it reliable. This is a great video to help with road fixes. My question, in a pinch, can you hotwire that test lead to get the pump working, til the next auto parts store?
Yes, I believe you can do that.
87 2500 TBI 350/400 GMC and just want to say thanks! Mine has 93k original stock survivor and can use all the help I can get.
Thanks for watching and good luck with your project
Thanks I was wondering what that loose terminal was for
Glad I could help
Chilton manual says I should have a red, orange, black, gray, and green wire coming out of relay...... of course I have red, orange, black, PINK and green on my 90 2500 series Silverado and I can't find that test connection. Manual says drivers side firewall. Glad you said one wire will have constant power (which I found out) because the manual says a test light will glow when you turn the key. I get the 2 second glow from the green wire.
The 2 sec glow, is the prime circuit
a great to the point video
Thanks for watching
I learned something thanks
Glad I could help
So if I have dual tanks there should be two relays side by side I assume?
Thank you very much . too much knowledge for tbi in nice short video thank you and god bliss you
i have r2500 3/4 ton GMC 1987 tbi 454 th400 and less information and tips in the youtube for this model 😅
And I appreciate to see some body take about something similar I appreciate .
from qatar 🇶🇦
Glad it helped
See I have this problem, mine sat for a year while I was in away Montana, now I've replaced the fuel pump, it'll fire when I poor fuel in the TBI, dies and when I stop cranking the fuel pump kicks on fir a second, but I get no fuel pump prime when I first turn on my ignition, so it won't start on its own power. It is verrry frustrating to find out
Mines doing the same thing what was wrong with it?
i have a 87 gmc 4x4 short bed that my son and i built, it has been parkered for 2 years. this is a great help for me after he moved out. i dont have anyone to help me. but if the relay licks.. is it bad? ill tay ur bypass and see if it pump trob.
Click does not always mean it is good. You have to test it. Good luck with the project
Im having long starting issues but will start . I can't hear the pump with the ignition so im suspecting it is the relay. Did your truck ever randomly shut off after driving 20 minutes or so but will restart
You said you use a fused jumper to test the pump. What size fuse is best so it doesn’t ruin the pump?
15-20 amps is fine, If there is a dead short it'll blow no matter what the size
Recently i changed my fuel pump and i tried starting it but didnt start so i check underneath the dash where all the chips were and changed out the idle and it started and i manage to drive it for a while id say a month and a couple weeks but suddenly one day it didnt wanna start it just cranks and idk what it could be i thought it was the chips under the dash but i checked and they were good but that didnt help still does the same thing and i dont think its the fuel pump because its new and changed it im wonder if its the fuel relay but then thing is i dont know much about mechanics is it located in the same place in a 1987 r10 or do i have to look somewhere else?
So I had my negative battery cable on the fuel pump junction block on one of the ground screw mounted on the firewall, and when I go to connect the battery I kept getting spark and repeatedly did it, and I finally moved the negative battery terminal from there and regrounded it, when i turn key to on position, now my fuel pump not turning on do you think I shorted the relay? The sending unit still works fine
It's possible, but from the way you explain it unlikely. Maybe the relay was bad from the start. Does your relay harness have a 'test or jumper wire' ?? if so apply power to test the circuit. If it works, then try a relay.
I'm having the issue where the ecmb10 fuse keeps blowing put in a new oil pressure switch and it was ok for a moment. Blew the fuse again. I'll follow the steps in this video
You still had power and a working pump, but the relay was bad?
can I bypass computer with the test lead and run my pump off of that I done a tbi to carb swap nobody tells everything needed in the wiring, my thought was a low oil pressure switch 3 pole hot to normally open and one to normally closed normally closed would be for keyed with a monetary prime button then once it starts the open circut closes once oil pressure builds and opens the keyed circut if I understand the low pressure saftey switch! any advice
What color is the bypass wire?
Red
where is the fuel pump relay located on a 1978 chevy K10
There isn't one. You have a mechanical pump located on the passenger side front of engine.
@@AxlesGarage thanks. I didn’t think there was one but somebody told me there was one because I wasn’t Getting fuel but I found a split ground wire under the truck which was the issue. Thanks for the reply
@@markneri2955my 75 Chevy isn’t getting fuel and fuel pump I have is pretty new so I don’t think it’s that. Where should I look for the wire u talked about?
Watch the video again ...
👍
Love these trucks
1994 Chevy pickup fuel pump relay switch
Test realy
I just looked and they are $24.95 now...
Standard RY109 $15.28 here: amzn.to/3Lev7TV
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Glad to help