Bro your suffering is almost too much witness ! You know any one of us (your beloved subscribers) could have politely nagged you to pull the motor right from the beginning but we didn't. Phat lot of good WE are eh? 😆The good news is you didn't swallow too much transmission fluid. I swear cruiser people are a lot like fathers that stand there quietly as Jr. sticks his finger in the light socket. But seriously, I am personally learning a ton from this that I didn't learn during my own build because I bypassed so much of the part by part evaluation. Great videos and great work teaching your son the ropes along the way.
Just a few drops of trans fluid 😜 it was terrible, went down the breathing side and had me coughing for a while. This is the first time I have pulled this much of a 1FZ apart without having the motor out. Next time I do this the motor will definitely be coming out. I'm hoping the crankshaft looks good so I can throw some new rod bearings on. If not, then the short block is coming out, too. Speaking of light sockets, best way to test if the power is still on is to lick your finger and touch the hot wire, right? :-)
Glad its you and not me (I have a 1HZ diesel). I'd have thought you'd have gone for a full engine conversion rather than turbocharging the 1FZ. Be interested to see how it all comes together. :)
It should definitely be interesting. If I did an engine conversion I would have done a turbo'd LS. But the 1FZ handles boost well and should be an interesting build.
Ahh yes the 1FZ… are you planning on rebuilding the whole bottom end with rods, pistons..etc? btw can’t wait to see it fully finished and building BOOST!!!!
The factory pistons and rods on these are fairly strong. If I was looking to make over 1000hp I definitely would do forged pistons and rods. But my power goals are well below that. I will be inspecting the rod bearings and may replace those, but if everything else is in good shape I will be leaving the factory rods and pistons.
I just did this last week. I was going to pull the block and decided it was 6 of 1 half a dozen of the other. Piece of cake couldn't have gone easier 1. Unbolt the two bolts on the transmission cradle two insulator 2. Unbolt the bottom of each engine mount 3. Very carefully Jack the transmission housing up just enough to fit two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood under the engine mounts 4. Piece of cake the oil pan slides in and out like nobody's business you'll easily be able to clean everything up apply new fipg toss it under there and throw it back on no problem
@@NKPGarage I had the same problem just a few days ago I realized the oil pan would not come out easily but then I recalled my 3rz 1998 Tacoma build and I shimmed the motor. After that it was a piece of cake, I swiped a tiny bit of sealer off the back of the oil pan sliding it in on the flange face of the transmission. I was trying to get those two dedicated holes on the bottom of the timing chain cover. Hindsight being 20/20 slide it in and put the back flange of the oil pan up against the transmission housing first then slide it straight up. I also pulled my transmission wire harness I've got a post on mud about it under BillyGoatMTB I figured if I was putting a new engine wiring harness in I might as well clean up the transmission harness and I'm glad I did the casing was literally falling apart. I did the same as you plan to I inspected all bearings everything was fine for me but I replaced everything I could get my hands on, timing chain, timing chain gears, oil pump oil pump pressure sensor, too much to list anyway if I could replace it I did. Make sure you're gentle about shimming the motor the transmission tunnel doesn't have a lot of space and if you have the cold weather package you could pinch your water lines
Oh... I also pulled out the front drive shaft and sway bar, that gave me a lot of extra room to work. I have a new white line front sway bar to match my rear heavy duty sway bar as well as having the front drive shaft made getting the wiring harness out of the transmission much much easier. Today I ordered a new master cylinder and brake booster I'm going to go ahead and swap those out while I have the space and I'll be dropping the transmission oil pan and cleaning all that up before I put everything back together
@@NKPGarage at the request of some mud folks I posted a video on UA-cam, I'm also being asked to make a video about the shimming of the motorized I might try to do that this weekend.
Love the progress so far! My timing cover is leaking and I’m wondering if I should attempt pulling it off with the head on the engine still. Any words of wisdom?
You can pull the timing cover with the head still on, you will need to pull the upper and lower oil pans first to get the timing cover off. The AC compressor will also need to come off to get to a few of the bolts for the timing cover.
Oh ya. Upper pan came out over a year ago but I stopped working on the truck for a long time. We just got back to work on it and started posting some new videos again a few days ago
As I write this, I am right in the middle of trying to pull that upper pan in a 93 80 series to change rings and bearings. To the point of droping the pan. Thanks for your video. Any advice on how to stop cussing toyota for this design
It was such a pain in the butt. When I finally got it the pan out it was nice to see how to get it out next time if ever needed. But I ended up pulling this motor out anyway so all I did was cause my own pain :-) Good luck on yours!!
Remove the steering linkage. It will drop down out out to the rear. Getting it out is easy, compared to putting it back in without messing up the silicone....2 sets of hands, one front and one rear aids in getting it in. At least thats how I accomplished it. Good Luck!!
Wow, you made a LOT of work for yourself mate, should have just pulled the engine out in the first place. Not to mention all the crumbs dropping into the cylinders and timing gears, I'd consider this a tutorial on how to not srip down an engine.
Bro your suffering is almost too much witness ! You know any one of us (your beloved subscribers) could have politely nagged you to pull the motor right from the beginning but we didn't. Phat lot of good WE are eh? 😆The good news is you didn't swallow too much transmission fluid. I swear cruiser people are a lot like fathers that stand there quietly as Jr. sticks his finger in the light socket. But seriously, I am personally learning a ton from this that I didn't learn during my own build because I bypassed so much of the part by part evaluation. Great videos and great work teaching your son the ropes along the way.
Just a few drops of trans fluid 😜 it was terrible, went down the breathing side and had me coughing for a while. This is the first time I have pulled this much of a 1FZ apart without having the motor out. Next time I do this the motor will definitely be coming out. I'm hoping the crankshaft looks good so I can throw some new rod bearings on. If not, then the short block is coming out, too. Speaking of light sockets, best way to test if the power is still on is to lick your finger and touch the hot wire, right? :-)
Glad its you and not me (I have a 1HZ diesel).
I'd have thought you'd have gone for a full engine conversion rather than turbocharging the 1FZ. Be interested to see how it all comes together. :)
It should definitely be interesting. If I did an engine conversion I would have done a turbo'd LS. But the 1FZ handles boost well and should be an interesting build.
Very informative video. Thank you for posting.
You got it! Glad you found it helpful 😀
Ahh yes the 1FZ… are you planning on rebuilding the whole bottom end with rods, pistons..etc? btw can’t wait to see it fully finished and building BOOST!!!!
The factory pistons and rods on these are fairly strong. If I was looking to make over 1000hp I definitely would do forged pistons and rods. But my power goals are well below that. I will be inspecting the rod bearings and may replace those, but if everything else is in good shape I will be leaving the factory rods and pistons.
I just did this last week. I was going to pull the block and decided it was 6 of 1 half a dozen of the other.
Piece of cake couldn't have gone easier
1. Unbolt the two bolts on the transmission cradle two insulator
2. Unbolt the bottom of each engine mount
3. Very carefully Jack the transmission housing up just enough to fit two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood under the engine mounts
4. Piece of cake the oil pan slides in and out like nobody's business you'll easily be able to clean everything up apply new fipg toss it under there and throw it back on no problem
That's a great way to do it! Didn't even think of going that route. Maybe I'll do that once it is ready to go back together! Thanks for the tip!
@@NKPGarage I had the same problem just a few days ago I realized the oil pan would not come out easily but then I recalled my 3rz 1998 Tacoma build and I shimmed the motor.
After that it was a piece of cake, I swiped a tiny bit of sealer off the back of the oil pan sliding it in on the flange face of the transmission. I was trying to get those two dedicated holes on the bottom of the timing chain cover. Hindsight being 20/20 slide it in and put the back flange of the oil pan up against the transmission housing first then slide it straight up.
I also pulled my transmission wire harness I've got a post on mud about it under BillyGoatMTB I figured if I was putting a new engine wiring harness in I might as well clean up the transmission harness and I'm glad I did the casing was literally falling apart.
I did the same as you plan to I inspected all bearings everything was fine for me but I replaced everything I could get my hands on, timing chain, timing chain gears, oil pump oil pump pressure sensor, too much to list anyway if I could replace it I did.
Make sure you're gentle about shimming the motor the transmission tunnel doesn't have a lot of space and if you have the cold weather package you could pinch your water lines
Oh... I also pulled out the front drive shaft and sway bar, that gave me a lot of extra room to work.
I have a new white line front sway bar to match my rear heavy duty sway bar as well as having the front drive shaft made getting the wiring harness out of the transmission much much easier.
Today I ordered a new master cylinder and brake booster I'm going to go ahead and swap those out while I have the space and I'll be dropping the transmission oil pan and cleaning all that up before I put everything back together
@@NKPGarage at the request of some mud folks I posted a video on UA-cam, I'm also being asked to make a video about the shimming of the motorized I might try to do that this weekend.
@@BillyGoatsAdventures Great idea on the video. That would be very useful for the Land Cruiser community!
Love the progress so far!
My timing cover is leaking and I’m wondering if I should attempt pulling it off with the head on the engine still. Any words of wisdom?
You can pull the timing cover with the head still on, you will need to pull the upper and lower oil pans first to get the timing cover off. The AC compressor will also need to come off to get to a few of the bolts for the timing cover.
Your videos skipped, so did you get the upper pan out?
Oh ya. Upper pan came out over a year ago but I stopped working on the truck for a long time. We just got back to work on it and started posting some new videos again a few days ago
As I write this, I am right in the middle of trying to pull that upper pan in a 93 80 series to change rings and bearings. To the point of droping the pan. Thanks for your video. Any advice on how to stop cussing toyota for this design
It was such a pain in the butt. When I finally got it the pan out it was nice to see how to get it out next time if ever needed. But I ended up pulling this motor out anyway so all I did was cause my own pain :-) Good luck on yours!!
Remove the steering linkage. It will drop down out out to the rear. Getting it out is easy, compared to putting it back in without messing up the silicone....2 sets of hands, one front and one rear aids in getting it in. At least thats how I accomplished it. Good Luck!!
That's a great tip! You're right on the re-installation. That's the part that you have to be careful with and also gets messy sometimes.
Wow, you made a LOT of work for yourself mate, should have just pulled the engine out in the first place.
Not to mention all the crumbs dropping into the cylinders and timing gears, I'd consider this a tutorial on how to not srip down an engine.
You’re totally right. The project slowly spiraled out of control. Haha. If I had to start over I would just have pulled the motor from the start
From now on, remove whole engine to do head gasket !
Yup!! For me that will be the route to go. Definitely doable with the motor still in the truck but so much easier with it out