*A MUST HAVE TOOL FOR THIS JOB* Rear Axle Bearing Puller Tool : amzn.to/3s3EoYq For Toyota Hilux pickups 1975-1995 For Toyota 4 Runners 1984-2016 For Toyota Tacoma 1995-2018 For Toyota T-100's 1993-1998 For Toyota Sequoia 2001-2017 For Toyota FJ 2007-2014 For Toyota Lexus GX 460 2010-2017 For Toyota Lexus GX470 2003-2009 For Toyota Pre-Runner 2005-2014 For Toyota Tundra 2000-2018 For Toyota Land Cruiser 1998-2008
I got a tool from "Donald-the-Bonald" on ebay. that covers from 84-2020 Yoda rear axle including sequoia. not really cheap, but Sequoias are the worst to deal (Stupid tone ring is so close) with and you can get the kit that covers those as well.
Agreed this tool is an absolute must. I’m a diy guy and ended up building my own to use with a porta power or in a press, and it’s been a lifesaver. Good vid.
Did a ton of these when I was at the dealer, oh boy are they fun with the rust and the heat cycling. They deffinately madr you work for your money whenever you had a really seized one!
Another SMA video!!!! No matter what the subject is, keep them coming. Always learn something new that either I can use myself or make sure if someone does work on my vehicles, it's done right.
I just come to watch other people suffer. I get out of the shop and always wonder if other guys have it just as bad and the I see an SMA video and it warms my hart knowing I'm not alone in the suck.
Some rough and dirty work here, a treat for the viewers who don't like big fancy scan tools. Pounding those studs out with a framing hammer is raw caveman.
@@samcooke2742 I was thinking the same thing. Take a nut you don’t care about and put it on until the top of the nut is just peaking out like you can catch your fingernail in it, that protects the stud 😃
I just replaced the front wheel bearing assemblies on my 2nd gen 4x4 tacoma, wasn’t too bad, Its a 2011 so I figure I should probably do the rear as well, after watching this video I think I’ll take it in to the shop instead. Thanks for the video
I have a lot more respect for you rust belt mechanics than I used to. I work on cars in the Southwest and everything you mentioned one might need when doing this job would be 100% ok on a car in our climate. A bottle of acetylene lasts me years here.
LOL at least we don't have to put up with that blistering hot weather that you guys have to. Or the dry rotting that must be a problem you encounter maybe. The older I get I find the more acetylene I use :-)
There are very few repairs I'd never do (again) at home and after watching this it's one more I've added to the list! Great repair and thanks for putting it together.
Yo Mr O. Tip when opening up brake lines. Put a piece of cling film / saran wrap over the fluid reservoir and put the cap on over it. Stops air getting in at the reservoir and stops fluid coming out at the bottom. Makes bleeding a lot easier. Particularly good when you have an ABS/DSC module which you generally need to use software to bleed.
Brings back memories of working in a Fiat main dealers back in the 80's no press , grind off the lock ring , chisel the bearing off , knock the new bearing on , then heat the shrink fit new collar till glowing , drop it on the shaft and cool with water , refit to the car , job done , great video Eric, boy you've got the tools to do the job there 👍👍👍
Where were you two months ago? When I replaced the seal and rear bearing in my 2009 FJ Cruiser. The press tool is a must. I just used bearing spreader to remove the Race. Mine took a lot of force and the press mushroomed the splines on the axle enough that I had to clean up with a file to get back in. The brake shoe reinstall was a pain but with patience it all worked out. Runs good now. Thanks for the video.
Depending on the year, and exactly how many of your parts are messed up, Dorman sells a whole axle/bearing/backing plate, already pressed and ready to slide in. Not cheap, but turns the job into something fairly easy to diy.
Man the salt really does a number on vehicles in your region. Here down south you can pull a truck out of a pasture that has been sitting for 30 years and it will look better than the newer vehicles you work on. I like seeing all of your little tips and tricks to break things loose.
I was the diy he was talking about and I built my own 20 ton press and did my 2012 Tacoma. It’s not bad with the right tools. I have the bearing pullers to. Oh yeah I’m 70 years old to.
Just did the front right wheel bearing on my 04 Toyota RAV4 all-wheel drive in my driveway last week. It is also pressed in but a different setup than a Tacoma of course. It was a bit of a pain in the butt with all the corrosion in the steering knuckle. Lots of fighting it and a bunch of non-family-friendly eff word combinations and it came out. I don't have a press so I had to muscle it out with a manual bearing removal/press kit I bought at Harbor Freight. I hate pressed in bearings with a passion.
front passenger bearing on a 05 crv is just as bad. the 4 full seasons conspire to really kick the crap out of the metals. replaced the rear sub frame after the suspension collapsed due to corrosion...I'd almost rather do that again than the front wheel bearing.
I'm a firm believer in doing things in pairs. I know it adds expense, but if one side goes, the other one can't be far behind. And I believe it saves me the expense of having it towed in and downtime. 🤷♂️
I do the same. I spend a good bit of time getting all the tools out that I need, then cleaning and putting them away afterward. If I have everything out to do one side, I'm just knocking out the other side at the same time and getting it over with.
I did that for a while but I’ve gone the opposite way. I’m on my third front left wheel bearing on my Tacoma, passenger side is still original. No point replacing things that aren’t broken.
@@damianryan5 Same here. Used to be you could spend a little more and buy quality parts but these days it seems to be a crap shoot. Have good intentions and replace an older but still functional part with a new replacement part, and it might fail sooner than the older original part left in place.
I must admit I binged on your early stuff so much I kinda drifed away, have been off injured lately and have been catching up. Great stuff as always man.
Nice, now that's garage repair work !!! It usually involves some lubing, some banging, some wiping, and jamming stuff in to get it working !!! The good ole days !!! Bring on part II !!!
Joe DIY Lunchbox: "Changing a rear axle bearing. How hard can it be? Maybe I'll do it myself." Eric O shows this video Joe DIY Lunchbox: "Uh, I'd like to make an appointment..."
Great video Eric! I always love it when you pull out the specialty tools! That inner race, obviously you didn't have any issues as you had the tool but I've always found a quick diagonal score with the cut-off wheel and a sharp smack with a cold chisel will crack the race without damaging the bearing surface and let you pull it off by hand, also saves the awkward dance with the snips! Looking forward to part 2!
Crank a bearing splitter tight on the race itself, press it just enough to move it and get under for the remaining push. I don't have the tool, I do have a very large press and a big bearing splitter.
Yep you’re right Eric not a job for the amateur and yet you still make it look as if I could do it, the sign of a true master, hopefully part two will follow soon
Glad I don’t live in a “ rusty” area (NE Oklahoma.) Just replaced third member on my 2010 4wd Tacoma. Pulled both axles easily. Took to NAPA machine shop, had them replace bearings, due to possible metal contamination. Used koyo bearings too. Cost me $25 for pressing both sides. 3rd member spider gear shredded. Replaced member with new from Toyota. East peasy. Just lucky, I think.
If it were my Taco, and I had the bucks at the time, I'd ask you to do both as well. A good investment. I have a 97 sitting in my yard with over 300K miles on it and the closest thing I can find on the market, to the little 4 x 4 with a 2.7. is a Land Cruiser that has a price tag of almost 100K. I personally think those old style Tacos are like gold.
Yep, much more so if you live in a dry climate area, or a snow free area, where salt isn’t tossed on roads. I have a 1999 Ford Ranger too. She has also been very good to me throughout the years.
I love these videos where stuff gets bashed and pressed off. I have done some of this kind of work myself, and found it uniquely satisfying when some stuck on part finally lets loose.
Stuff under the press, and a first scary bang "....... when I go silent, then you worry, and maybe start lookin' for another job,..." 5 min into the job,... Yep, Eric still very alive! Bless you and the family Mr. O.
As a DIY type, i always relied on the Big A or NAPA etc to press off and on bearings or gears, which the other parts stores did not have equipment to do. They might charge a bit more, but the relationship paid off.
I have done this twice on my older Taco every 140k mi due to axle seals failing. The first time my local Napper screwed up the repress distances for ABS twice, because he didn't want to look at my shop manual so I had to help him do it right the third time. The second time, I made that tool. Well worth the investment to know it is done right the first time v. the third time. If I had an Eric O in SoCal, sans rust, I would just go to him because it would be done right the first time every time.
So glad when I had a Tacoma in my shop for this I referred it to the dealer. I'm flat rate so you gotta chose your battles wisely. Great job though. You make a difficult repair look easy.
I do about 95% of my own stuff, but I elected to take these out and have the pro’s do it. The guys did show me a good trick at finding the bad one in lifting it vertical by the shaft and spinning it and the bad one was quite obvious.
The comment you made at 9:37 explains why the owner wants both sides done ;) some folks go really out their way to own a manual Tacoma, and it's often for life
Great video. Glad you did this. I have pulled many toyota rear ends to give them a lincoln locker but have never done a wheel bearing on them, never gave it much thought. Looks like a PITA, glad you showed the fancy once a year use tool to actually make it possible before I look like an idiot when I tell someone "yea no problem its just a wheel bearing".
I have a question about fuel line going into fuel rack on a 4.7 liter 2003 tundra I'm about to replace line from there back too filter I'm curios how to remove the line it's not a quick disconnect thanks
Usually hear these go bad on the 96-2002 4Runners because of the rear wheel seals blowing out since the rear diff breather gets clogged up and causes excess pressure, I figure this is the same rear end.
I just got a new truck this summer and it's a 2003 Tacoma. I found out while I was fixing the seized parking brake(it's an automatic) that the axle seal was leaking but just barely. I was able to change the seal and blow out and regrease the bearing that had grease thinned out with gear oil inside of it before it developed any play. After watching this video, I'm sure glad I went through all that effort before the bearing be failed.
@@bigfootandbananaman4746 That's why I'm glad the previous owner installed a diff breather extension all the way up beside the gas cap so it isn't exposed at the bottom and rusts itself shut. Haven't had any issues with the seals/bearings in my 97 4Runner thankfully.
@@bigfootandbananaman4746 if there is gear oil in those bearings it's has already failed. Removing and repacking the grease does nothing but cost you effort.
@@metalsurgeon9196 the bearing is still completely tight now. I did clean it out really well with carb cleaner and let it dry before adding new grease.
You the man Dr. O I need to do this on my Tundra and now I’m thinking of just buying the entire axle from Dorman it comes with everything just pull the old one and put the new axle in!! Because after seeing the amount of labor it takes and the special TOOLS!! They are $400 each so I think that’s the way to go. What do you think???? Being DORMAN???? Think they will last at least few years????
I'm a retired truck driver heavy truck and equipment mechanic of 37 yrs. I did my daughter's car wheel bearing. 2017 Elantra took me about 1 1/2 hours. Was fairly easy was hard taking the old bearing out since it fell apart when I took it wheel assembly apart. A DIY can rent out a bearing press tool hardest part would be getting racer off of the hub and not damaging it
I did this DIY. Took the axle shafts to a shop that pressed the old bearings off and the new ones on. They were actually able to put the original wheel speed sensor back on so I was able to return those to Toyota.
This is a great video Eric, and thanks for the link for the bearing puller!! It's better to have the tool on hand even if you use it only once a year than need it and not have it!!! Your videos should be required watching for up and coming techs and for us that are or use to be techs who still work on cars on the side!!!!
The press tool is easy to make. I used to be a toyota trained mechanic. You cant press the bearing off by pressing on the backing plate as it will bend it and make a big headache when you put it back together. So this is what the Special Service Tool is. A piece of heavy wall pipe 5 inches shorter than the distance from the inner end of the axle to the bearing mount on the back of the backing plate. 3 inches in dia. One end had a flat piece of 3/8 plate with a hole in it for the axle to fit through the other end has a piece of plate that's a duplicate of the end of the axle housing with the 4 bolt holes for the bolts and a bigger centre hole for the collar on the axle to fit into. One end bolts up to the bearing mount on the backing plate. You fit it into your press with the outer end of the axle facing the floor The inner end rests on the 2 blocks of steel on your press and you press on the inner end of the axle. The collar by the bearing is a press fit.
Had to do this work for my 07 prerunner taco. I Didn't have the tools for this job so had to take it to a shop to have this done for me. I went ahead and bought every single piece new since it was going to be a complete tear down so also included a new aftermarket OEM brand brake cylinder and complete brake job as well so that I didn't have to worry about it later.
Thank you Eric, I've no doubt I will ever do one of these but it's great to watch an excellent mechanic show you the process and you can always guarantee a tip ot two on removing rusted components, hope you have a great xmas
I just did my 2008 Tundra... at home as an advanced DIYer, I even built the special tool for the pressing, had to buy a 20 ton press which I resold after for the same price I bought it for
I have the same Continental 60,000# shop press. Bought it off the truck of a traveling salesman probably 35 years ago. Been a good press for me, even thought I have occasionally abused it. Did bend the plate above the jack a tad though trying to press a couple of gears off the countershaft of a 13 speed Fuller truck transmission. Those babies were on the TIGHT! Evena had to use a fair amount of heat on them too.
We have the same parts washer at our work. Works ok if someone doesnt unplug it (looking at you apprentices) and it gets serviced regularly. Best one Ive ever used is a turbo wash. Has a spinning drum and sprays hot solution. Cleans engine blocks nice
Had to replace a rear wheel bearing of my car recently (20 year old car) and I didn’t even think about doing it myself because I’ve seen enough videos to see how impossible that is without professional tools. Brought it into a shop and was happily paying for it,
It's a semi DIY job if you know how. I always pulled the axles then take them to a shop to get the bearings pressed. They make some easy money and I save a lot on labor doing most of the job. Whatever I do to one side I always do to the other. They have the same miles and abuse. I had a rough time with the passenger side on my Rodeo. Spent HOURS getting that shaft out, drivers side popped right out.
This is what I was talking about the other day. My 03 kia sorento lx needs a tool just like that to do the rear wheel bearings and it costs around 800 dollars.
I have the same press tool now, but I have done those with a torch---you can cut enough of the inner and outer race of the inboard ball bearing such that the balls will fall out and the axlw comes out of the backing plate/hub assembly. Still have to cut the outboard inner race out with cutoff wheel and/or torch.
I’ve come across people before that just want to change both of anything because they will simply sleep better at night, you can explain it’s a waste but ultimately they will just be happier with it done and I’m ok with that as long as they have the whole picture. If they are happy, I’m happy.
Time saver for your consideration-Remove the cap on the master cylinder, plug the brake line with a rubber cap immediately after removal, and when going back together just make sure the master is full and crack the bleeder while cleaning and putting away your tools. Won't have to mess with bleeding it that way since gravity will take care of what small amount you let in. I call that preemptive brake bleeding and it saves a lot of time on many of the stubborn to bleed vehicles. And if the pedal is still a tad squishy, which it most likely won't be, go find a dirt/gravel lot or road and make 3 or 4 ABS activated panic stops and she'll firm right up.
When the cost of the repair is described by a professional like Dr. O as "not for the faint of heart", I don't know about the rest of you, but it scares me. A lot :)
He's not referring to the cost, he's referring to the actual procedure. Which in this case is actually pretty straightforward, but there are a lot of steps, you really need some specialised tools to do it properly, and you also need to be prepared for things like those snap-prone bolts holding the parking brake cable on.
They’re not bad. Did mine on my 2001 2500HD 6.0. Just need to torque it down correctly to seat the seal then back it off to the correct to bet the correct preload torque so it doesn’t leak (ask me how I know 😒). 14bolt, 10.5” ring gear, full floater.
@@chadvalliere8697 Same here with my 04 HD.... It was tough to find any specs... Everything was a "go by feel", or torque to 50lbs, then back off to 0.... I had 1 seal leak, but re-torqued it and all is good... I had a hard time finding that damn 6 point spindle nut, as well... Oh yeah, and that outer bearing c-clip was a challenge - 10" angled needle nose and a bunch of cussing....
@@gonesideways6621 it was so bad I had to change my rear brake pads. No matter how much I soaked then with brake clean that’s all I could smell is hot burning gear oil.
@@steveo6631 in the end I realized I had access to All Data at work (I’m a collision tech at a ford dealer). I couldn’t find actual procedures but I was able to find a torture spec and found out that you had to rotate the hub while you are torquing down that nut. 52lb.ft., then backed it off just enough to get the key way in that reinstall that orange snap ring thing.
COME ON LIL FELLA SAY IT GREETING VIEWERS AND WELCOME BACK TO THE SOUTH MAIN AUTO CHANNEL!! Thanks for the videos! you dont have to say it but its been a staple for years and weird not hearing it.
Love these nuts and bolts videos.... But, my favorites have always been the logical diagnosis of electrical problems... They have helped me so much... Thanks, and keep 'em coming Dr. O....
always enjoy your vids! as a shade tree mechanic i figure i can always learn something and gain some confidence in tackling various repairs. You my friend are entertaining and very talented!
I tried pulling a rear wheel bearing off an Holden Rodeo in the 90's. the axle was large like the Tacoma. The Holden Rodeo was an Australian spec Isuzu back in the day. I couldn't press it outa at home, so I took it to work and used the fitters press - still no joy. I ended up grinding it then bashing it with a cold chisel to spread it a bit. Putting the new one on was easier, at work we had a bearing heater, so after heating it, it fell on like butter. I think it was called the Isuzu Rodeo. Mine was a 4wd Twin Cab ute. The same axles were in the Isuzu Trooper, In Australia it was called the Holden Jackaroo (the 4wd station wagon)
*A MUST HAVE TOOL FOR THIS JOB*
Rear Axle Bearing Puller Tool : amzn.to/3s3EoYq
For Toyota Hilux pickups 1975-1995
For Toyota 4 Runners 1984-2016
For Toyota Tacoma 1995-2018
For Toyota T-100's 1993-1998
For Toyota Sequoia 2001-2017
For Toyota FJ 2007-2014
For Toyota Lexus GX 460 2010-2017
For Toyota Lexus GX470 2003-2009
For Toyota Pre-Runner 2005-2014
For Toyota Tundra 2000-2018
For Toyota Land Cruiser 1998-2008
Currently unavailable baby!
I got a tool from "Donald-the-Bonald" on ebay. that covers from 84-2020 Yoda rear axle including sequoia. not really cheap, but Sequoias are the worst to deal (Stupid tone ring is so close) with and you can get the kit that covers those as well.
Agreed this tool is an absolute must. I’m a diy guy and ended up building my own to use with a porta power or in a press, and it’s been a lifesaver. Good vid.
Is this the same process for 2008 and up Tundra? I am doing my Dad's rear wheel bearing soon and wonder if this tool is the same for that?
@@SSMedic it is the same tool yes
Up until now, I've only heard what a difficult job this is. I really appreciate you taking the time to show us amateurs what it takes to get it done.
I've seen those tools for removing the bearings. But I've never seen one in use until now! Thank you I can't wait for part two...
Did a ton of these when I was at the dealer, oh boy are they fun with the rust and the heat cycling. They deffinately madr you work for your money whenever you had a really seized one!
Another vehicle I won’t be buying anytime soon
I have a 2002 Tacoma with 285k on the clock. And with a new timing belt and all that goes with it I want to get another 200k out of it.
@@stevanrose7439 yo! Can we get a one year update?
11:57 haha the sound for the Bra-kleen was a great touch 😂
Another SMA video!!!! No matter what the subject is, keep them coming. Always learn something new that either I can use myself or make sure if someone does work on my vehicles, it's done right.
I just come to watch other people suffer. I get out of the shop and always wonder if other guys have it just as bad and the I see an SMA video and it warms my hart knowing I'm not alone in the suck.
This man is a Master Mechanic. He does the job right the first time. Far above your average yahoo kid that works on cars out there. Bravo!
You've been killing it with the videos lately! I'm loving it!
Love it all too much
Loving the tsunami of videos recently Eric. Thanks for the early Christmas present!
No idea why we're getting so many uploads recently but I love it! Merry Christmas everyone!
Some rough and dirty work here, a treat for the viewers who don't like big fancy scan tools. Pounding those studs out with a framing hammer is raw caveman.
@@samcooke2742 I was thinking the same thing. Take a nut you don’t care about and put it on until the top of the nut is just peaking out like you can catch your fingernail in it, that protects the stud 😃
I just replaced the front wheel bearing assemblies on my 2nd gen 4x4 tacoma, wasn’t too bad, Its a 2011 so I figure I should probably do the rear as well, after watching this video I think I’ll take it in to the shop instead. Thanks for the video
what mileage was on your rig when those needed replaced?
I have a lot more respect for you rust belt mechanics than I used to. I work on cars in the Southwest and everything you mentioned one might need when doing this job would be 100% ok on a car in our climate. A bottle of acetylene lasts me years here.
LOL at least we don't have to put up with that blistering hot weather that you guys have to. Or the dry rotting that must be a problem you encounter maybe. The older I get I find the more acetylene I use :-)
There are very few repairs I'd never do (again) at home and after watching this it's one more I've added to the list! Great repair and thanks for putting it together.
It's a lot easier on a real truck that has a full floating rear. Pull the hub and knock the races out on the ground with a brass drift.
Yo Mr O. Tip when opening up brake lines. Put a piece of cling film / saran wrap over the fluid reservoir and put the cap on over it. Stops air getting in at the reservoir and stops fluid coming out at the bottom. Makes bleeding a lot easier. Particularly good when you have an ABS/DSC module which you generally need to use software to bleed.
When driving seals into a blind hole I’ll usually pack the spring area with grease to keep it in place. Works for me
I would never, EVER attempt this job. I'll leave it to guys like this who obviously know what they're doing. Well done, sir.
Brings back memories of working in a Fiat main dealers back in the 80's no press , grind off the lock ring , chisel the bearing off , knock the new bearing on , then heat the shrink fit new collar till glowing , drop it on the shaft and cool with water , refit to the car , job done , great video Eric, boy you've got the tools to do the job there 👍👍👍
SMA is on a uploading roll lately !
Where were you two months ago? When I replaced the seal and rear bearing in my 2009 FJ Cruiser. The press tool is a must. I just used bearing spreader to remove the Race. Mine took a lot of force and the press mushroomed the splines on the axle enough that I had to clean up with a file to get back in. The brake shoe reinstall was a pain but with patience it all worked out. Runs good now. Thanks for the video.
I love watching you work on these vehicles ..I quit working on cars when the Backyard mechanic no longer could do it
Did I just witness Mr O removing nuts without the use of an air tool?😱😂
Amish style!
She actually clicked that socket onto the extension like a pro. She's a keeper.
@@SouthMainAuto Didn't realize buggy wheels had pressed on bearings.
Nothing better than an SMA video, a fresh cup of coffee and a stroopwaffle
Depending on the year, and exactly how many of your parts are messed up, Dorman sells a whole axle/bearing/backing plate, already pressed and ready to slide in. Not cheap, but turns the job into something fairly easy to diy.
18:00 - reminds me of the one rule, “if it doesn’t fit, force it. If it breaks, you probably needed a new one anyway”.
Or as we said in tool & die business you need a bigger hammer !
Eric some days it wasn't fun to be a pharmacist but we live through it.
Great start to a headache. :-)
I believe you can make watching paint dry entertaining...you got a gift buddy. Keep doing you.
Man the salt really does a number on vehicles in your region. Here down south you can pull a truck out of a pasture that has been sitting for 30 years and it will look better than the newer vehicles you work on. I like seeing all of your little tips and tricks to break things loose.
I was the diy he was talking about and I built my own 20 ton press and did my 2012 Tacoma. It’s not bad with the right tools. I have the bearing pullers to. Oh yeah I’m 70 years old to.
Just did the front right wheel bearing on my 04 Toyota RAV4 all-wheel drive in my driveway last week. It is also pressed in but a different setup than a Tacoma of course. It was a bit of a pain in the butt with all the corrosion in the steering knuckle. Lots of fighting it and a bunch of non-family-friendly eff word combinations and it came out. I don't have a press so I had to muscle it out with a manual bearing removal/press kit I bought at Harbor Freight. I hate pressed in bearings with a passion.
front passenger bearing on a 05 crv is just as bad. the 4 full seasons conspire to really kick the crap out of the metals. replaced the rear sub frame after the suspension collapsed due to corrosion...I'd almost rather do that again than the front wheel bearing.
It must be Christmas. Eric O is knocking out videos like every day.
I'm a firm believer in doing things in pairs. I know it adds expense, but if one side goes, the other one can't be far behind. And I believe it saves me the expense of having it towed in and downtime. 🤷♂️
A bearing should give you many miles of progressively louder reminding you it's going bad, should not be a tow truck call
I do the same. I spend a good bit of time getting all the tools out that I need, then cleaning and putting them away afterward. If I have everything out to do one side, I'm just knocking out the other side at the same time and getting it over with.
I did that for a while but I’ve gone the opposite way. I’m on my third front left wheel bearing on my Tacoma, passenger side is still original. No point replacing things that aren’t broken.
@@damianryan5 Same here. Used to be you could spend a little more and buy quality parts but these days it seems to be a crap shoot. Have good intentions and replace an older but still functional part with a new replacement part, and it might fail sooner than the older original part left in place.
I must admit I binged on your early stuff so much I kinda drifed away, have been off injured lately and have been catching up. Great stuff as always man.
Nice, now that's garage repair work !!! It usually involves some lubing, some banging, some wiping, and jamming stuff in to get it working !!! The good ole days !!! Bring on part II !!!
Joe DIY Lunchbox: "Changing a rear axle bearing. How hard can it be? Maybe I'll do it myself."
Eric O shows this video
Joe DIY Lunchbox: "Uh, I'd like to make an appointment..."
Great video Eric! I always love it when you pull out the specialty tools! That inner race, obviously you didn't have any issues as you had the tool but I've always found a quick diagonal score with the cut-off wheel and a sharp smack with a cold chisel will crack the race without damaging the bearing surface and let you pull it off by hand, also saves the awkward dance with the snips!
Looking forward to part 2!
Crank a bearing splitter tight on the race itself, press it just enough to move it and get under for the remaining push. I don't have the tool, I do have a very large press and a big bearing splitter.
Yep you’re right Eric not a job for the amateur and yet you still make it look as if I could do it, the sign of a true master, hopefully part two will follow soon
Glad I don’t live in a “ rusty” area (NE Oklahoma.) Just replaced third member on my 2010 4wd Tacoma. Pulled both axles easily. Took to NAPA machine shop, had them replace bearings, due to possible metal contamination. Used koyo bearings too. Cost me $25 for pressing both sides. 3rd member spider gear shredded. Replaced member with new from Toyota. East peasy. Just lucky, I think.
S.M.A. video release = day made .
Always enjoy the educational videos
If it were my Taco, and I had the bucks at the time, I'd ask you to do both as well. A good investment. I have a 97 sitting in my yard with over 300K miles on it and the closest thing I can find on the market, to the little 4 x 4 with a 2.7. is a Land Cruiser that has a price tag of almost 100K. I personally think those old style Tacos are like gold.
Yep, much more so if you live in a dry climate area, or a snow free area, where salt isn’t tossed on roads.
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger too. She has also been very good to me throughout the years.
I love these videos where stuff gets bashed and pressed off. I have done some of this kind of work myself, and found it uniquely satisfying when some stuck on part finally lets loose.
A bearing failure on a Toyota? Scotty's going to have a stroke!
Stuff under the press, and a first scary bang "....... when I go silent, then you worry, and maybe start lookin' for another job,..." 5 min into the job,... Yep, Eric still very alive! Bless you and the family Mr. O.
I love the clearing of the bench part it’s goes from one tool to pile of tools when doing a job
SMA Monday! It was worth getting out of bed today! Thanks Mr. O for another great video.
Talk about timing , finished an episode of " bleepin jeep " , and here comes Eric O , south main auto
This is what a machine shop is for. On to part 2.
As a DIY type, i always relied on the Big A or NAPA etc to press off and on bearings or gears, which the other parts stores did not have equipment to do. They might charge a bit more, but the relationship paid off.
I have done this twice on my older Taco every 140k mi due to axle seals failing. The first time my local Napper screwed up the repress distances for ABS twice, because he didn't want to look at my shop manual so I had to help him do it right the third time. The second time, I made that tool. Well worth the investment to know it is done right the first time v. the third time. If I had an Eric O in SoCal, sans rust, I would just go to him because it would be done right the first time every time.
So glad when I had a Tacoma in my shop for this I referred it to the dealer. I'm flat rate so you gotta chose your battles wisely. Great job though. You make a difficult repair look easy.
I do about 95% of my own stuff, but I elected to take these out and have the pro’s do it. The guys did show me a good trick at finding the bad one in lifting it vertical by the shaft and spinning it and the bad one was quite obvious.
@A. Melbs holding the shaft with the hub slightly off the ground
This is amazing I got a tundra in now to replace rear wheel bearing and the master has a video got to be my lucky day
The comment you made at 9:37 explains why the owner wants both sides done ;) some folks go really out their way to own a manual Tacoma, and it's often for life
Great video. Glad you did this. I have pulled many toyota rear ends to give them a lincoln locker but have never done a wheel bearing on them, never gave it much thought. Looks like a PITA, glad you showed the fancy once a year use tool to actually make it possible before I look like an idiot when I tell someone "yea no problem its just a wheel bearing".
I have a question about fuel line going into fuel rack on a 4.7 liter 2003 tundra I'm about to replace line from there back too filter I'm curios how to remove the line it's not a quick disconnect thanks
I have the Utmost Respect for any Mechanic in the Rust Belt, simple jobs often turn into hard jobs dealing with Corrosion....
Usually hear these go bad on the 96-2002 4Runners because of the rear wheel seals blowing out since the rear diff breather gets clogged up and causes excess pressure, I figure this is the same rear end.
The diff breather is a service point I was made to learn, just reach up and give it a jiggle or spin!
I just got a new truck this summer and it's a 2003 Tacoma. I found out while I was fixing the seized parking brake(it's an automatic) that the axle seal was leaking but just barely. I was able to change the seal and blow out and regrease the bearing that had grease thinned out with gear oil inside of it before it developed any play. After watching this video, I'm sure glad I went through all that effort before the bearing be failed.
@@bigfootandbananaman4746 That's why I'm glad the previous owner installed a diff breather extension all the way up beside the gas cap so it isn't exposed at the bottom and rusts itself shut. Haven't had any issues with the seals/bearings in my 97 4Runner thankfully.
@@bigfootandbananaman4746 if there is gear oil in those bearings it's has already failed. Removing and repacking the grease does nothing but cost you effort.
@@metalsurgeon9196 the bearing is still completely tight now. I did clean it out really well with carb cleaner and let it dry before adding new grease.
You the man Dr. O I need to do this on my Tundra and now I’m thinking of just buying the entire axle from Dorman it comes with everything just pull the old one and put the new axle in!! Because after seeing the amount of labor it takes and the special TOOLS!! They are $400 each so I think that’s the way to go. What do you think???? Being DORMAN???? Think they will last at least few years????
I'm a retired truck driver heavy truck and equipment mechanic of 37 yrs. I did my daughter's car wheel bearing. 2017 Elantra took me about 1 1/2 hours. Was fairly easy was hard taking the old bearing out since it fell apart when I took it wheel assembly apart. A DIY can rent out a bearing press tool hardest part would be getting racer off of the hub and not damaging it
I did this DIY. Took the axle shafts to a shop that pressed the old bearings off and the new ones on. They were actually able to put the original wheel speed sensor back on so I was able to return those to Toyota.
This is a great video Eric, and thanks
for the link for the bearing puller!!
It's better to have the tool on hand
even if you use it only once a year
than need it and not have it!!!
Your videos should be required
watching for up and coming techs
and for us that are or use to be
techs who still work on cars on the
side!!!!
I checked on that tool and it’s not in stock and they don’t know if it will be back. A lot of guys have just built one.
The press tool is easy to make. I used to be a toyota trained mechanic. You cant press the bearing off by pressing on the backing plate as it will bend it and make a big headache when you put it back together. So this is what the Special Service Tool is. A piece of heavy wall pipe 5 inches shorter than the distance from the inner end of the axle to the bearing mount on the back of the backing plate. 3 inches in dia. One end had a flat piece of 3/8 plate with a hole in it for the axle to fit through the other end has a piece of plate that's a duplicate of the end of the axle housing with the 4 bolt holes for the bolts and a bigger centre hole for the collar on the axle to fit into. One end bolts up to the bearing mount on the backing plate. You fit it into your press with the outer end of the axle facing the floor The inner end rests on the 2 blocks of steel on your press and you press on the inner end of the axle. The collar by the bearing is a press fit.
Want to get or keep in shape. Just get a Toyota! Looking forward to Part II. Thanks for Sharing!
Ooooo Man!!! This jazz was indeed entertaining Dr. O. Thank you for this. 👍🏻
Had to do this work for my 07 prerunner taco. I Didn't have the tools for this job so had to take it to a shop to have this done for me. I went ahead and bought every single piece new since it was going to be a complete tear down so also included a new aftermarket OEM brand brake cylinder and complete brake job as well so that I didn't have to worry about it later.
Love it! My old man taught me the same also drain plugs either in or out!!! Has served me well in my career
Thank you Eric, I've no doubt I will ever do one of these but it's great to watch an excellent mechanic show you the process and you can always guarantee a tip ot two on removing rusted components, hope you have a great xmas
Love from the UK! Love everything you stand for and your honest positive mindset!!👍🏻👍🏻
I just did my 2008 Tundra... at home as an advanced DIYer, I even built the special tool for the pressing, had to buy a 20 ton press which I resold after for the same price I bought it for
I have the same Continental 60,000# shop press. Bought it off the truck of a traveling salesman probably 35 years ago. Been a good press for me, even thought I have occasionally abused it. Did bend the plate above the jack a tad though trying to press a couple of gears off the countershaft of a 13 speed Fuller truck transmission. Those babies were on the TIGHT! Evena had to use a fair amount of heat on them too.
Just found another tool to add to my arsenal. Thanks for the video Mr. O. Looking forward to the next episode
Ooooh! A Taco Ma! I don't have time to watch it this evening, but I'll catch it tomorrow!
We have the same parts washer at our work. Works ok if someone doesnt unplug it
(looking at you apprentices) and it gets serviced regularly. Best one Ive ever used is a turbo wash. Has a spinning drum and sprays hot solution. Cleans engine blocks nice
Another great video Mr.O and another new tool for my tool box.Can't wait to see Part 2.
Did this on my last 2003 Grand Cherokee. Wasn't too bad a job, but glad I caught it, I had very little fluid left in the pumpkin from a bad seal.
As a bearing aficionado, I love the bearing videos!
Had to replace a rear wheel bearing of my car recently (20 year old car) and I didn’t even think about doing it myself because I’ve seen enough videos to see how impossible that is without professional tools. Brought it into a shop and was happily paying for it,
I think Naper has a hydraulic press that DYI'rs can pay for them to use. Maybe it's not all stores but pretty sure the one near me does.
Not a sponsor
It's a semi DIY job if you know how. I always pulled the axles then take them to a shop to get the bearings pressed. They make some easy money and I save a lot on labor doing most of the job. Whatever I do to one side I always do to the other. They have the same miles and abuse.
I had a rough time with the passenger side on my Rodeo. Spent HOURS getting that shaft out, drivers side popped right out.
This is what I was talking about the other day. My 03 kia sorento lx needs a tool just like that to do the rear wheel bearings and it costs around 800 dollars.
I have the same press tool now, but I have done those with a torch---you can cut enough of the inner and outer race of the inboard ball bearing such that the balls will fall out and the axlw comes out of the backing plate/hub assembly. Still have to cut the outboard inner race out with cutoff wheel and/or torch.
I’ve come across people before that just want to change both of anything because they will simply sleep better at night, you can explain it’s a waste but ultimately they will just be happier with it done and I’m ok with that as long as they have the whole picture. If they are happy, I’m happy.
Lotsa bangin, torchin, and a whole lotta other brutal stuff makes for a video that's more fun to watch than to make.
Time saver for your consideration-Remove the cap on the master cylinder, plug the brake line with a rubber cap immediately after removal, and when going back together just make sure the master is full and crack the bleeder while cleaning and putting away your tools. Won't have to mess with bleeding it that way since gravity will take care of what small amount you let in. I call that preemptive brake bleeding and it saves a lot of time on many of the stubborn to bleed vehicles. And if the pedal is still a tad squishy, which it most likely won't be, go find a dirt/gravel lot or road and make 3 or 4 ABS activated panic stops and she'll firm right up.
I'm supposed to be moving furniture in preparation for flooring guys tomorrow. But I can stop watching this!!! Better than Sopranos!!!
I love he multi part episodes!!!! Keeps us alllll coming back for more!!! 👍🏼👍🏼
When the cost of the repair is described by a professional like Dr. O as "not for the faint of heart", I don't know about the rest of you, but it scares me. A lot :)
He's not referring to the cost, he's referring to the actual procedure. Which in this case is actually pretty straightforward, but there are a lot of steps, you really need some specialised tools to do it properly, and you also need to be prepared for things like those snap-prone bolts holding the parking brake cable on.
Gosh golly gee wizz, gotta love that parts washer lol
Can't wait for part two!
I would like to see you do a full floating axle on a 2500HD someday... Kinda like the old school wheel bearing type job....
They’re not bad. Did mine on my 2001 2500HD 6.0. Just need to torque it down correctly to seat the seal then back it off to the correct to bet the correct preload torque so it doesn’t leak (ask me how I know 😒). 14bolt, 10.5” ring gear, full floater.
@@chadvalliere8697 Same here with my 04 HD.... It was tough to find any specs... Everything was a "go by feel", or torque to 50lbs, then back off to 0.... I had 1 seal leak, but re-torqued it and all is good... I had a hard time finding that damn 6 point spindle nut, as well... Oh yeah, and that outer bearing c-clip was a challenge - 10" angled needle nose and a bunch of cussing....
@@chadvalliere8697 I feel your pain I had to do my 2003, 2500HD Duramax GMC twice seal leaked first time second time was charm!
@@gonesideways6621 it was so bad I had to change my rear brake pads. No matter how much I soaked then with brake clean that’s all I could smell is hot burning gear oil.
@@steveo6631 in the end I realized I had access to All Data at work (I’m a collision tech at a ford dealer). I couldn’t find actual procedures but I was able to find a torture spec and found out that you had to rotate the hub while you are torquing down that nut. 52lb.ft., then backed it off just enough to get the key way in that reinstall that orange snap ring thing.
mrs o needs a raise
COME ON LIL FELLA SAY IT GREETING VIEWERS AND WELCOME BACK TO THE SOUTH MAIN AUTO CHANNEL!!
Thanks for the videos! you dont have to say it but its been a staple for years and weird not hearing it.
Tks 4 the trip down memory lane w/drum brakes, its been a couple decades 4 me
Eric O rocking the SK X-frames, very nice.
Your ability to not swear during these videos is very impressive
You’re an automotive lord. That’s all I can say.
It was memaw!, some days it's not fun being a mechanic but you got to do what you got to do!
There is nothing like having the right tools for the job and more important how to use them 👏👍😀🙌
Love these nuts and bolts videos.... But, my favorites have always been the logical diagnosis of electrical problems... They have helped me so much... Thanks, and keep 'em coming Dr. O....
always enjoy your vids! as a shade tree mechanic i figure i can always learn something and gain some confidence in tackling various repairs. You my friend are entertaining and very talented!
I agree w/ doing both at the same time, same for headlights.
I tried pulling a rear wheel bearing off an Holden Rodeo in the 90's. the axle was large like the Tacoma. The Holden Rodeo was an Australian spec Isuzu back in the day. I couldn't press it outa at home, so I took it to work and used the fitters press - still no joy. I ended up grinding it then bashing it with a cold chisel to spread it a bit. Putting the new one on was easier, at work we had a bearing heater, so after heating it, it fell on like butter. I think it was called the Isuzu Rodeo. Mine was a 4wd Twin Cab ute. The same axles were in the Isuzu Trooper, In Australia it was called the Holden Jackaroo (the 4wd station wagon)
You are on Fire! Thanks for all the content. Much appreciated.