Recently got error code P0126 on my 2006 Mazda 3. Made this video of my thermostat replacement to help other owners as this is a common problem for Mazda.
Hey Jordan, I really appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video. I have a 2006 Mazda3 just like yours except mine's a 5-door. I've had it since it was new (10yrs last month) and as much as I love it, a lot of maintenance and repairs are a major pain in the ass compared to other cars! Changing the PCV valve and even the cabin air filter each take a few hours when I could do it in 30 minutes on any of my Hondas. I had no idea that I needed a new thermostat until I took it in for emissions testing earlier this week. It only has 98k miles on it and has new plugs and fluids but it failed the emissions test. The printout showed that Code P0126 was the reason. The Check Engine Light didn't come on and I wouldn't have had a clue until the light came on if I hadn't caught it in the test. Anyway, I'm planning to change mine on Saturday. If you hadn't posted such a detailed video, I probably would have spent $150-$200 to have my local mechanic do it....YOU ROCK!
Awesome instructional video. and it made me lol too. "aaand if we don't remove the old gasket, you'll have two gaskets which equals no gaskets" hahah. Thanks!
I found a good way to keep the coolant from gushing out when you take out the radiator plug is to not unscrew the reservoir cap until after you remove the radiator plug. Then you can control the outflow of coolant by slowly unscrewing the reservoir cap while you watch from above as the coolant streams out. It's easier to avoid a mess this way.
I found it's much easier to combine this method with my method of taking a 1ft piece of old watering hose, slide it over the drain hole and then unscrew the reservoir cap, directed the coolant straight into my drain pan no splashing gushing or mess.
Ignore my previous comments! Thank you for posting this! I know almost nothing about cars and I used this video alone to change my thermostat, and it worked! Everything turned out perfectly! Thanks again!
Absolutely great video. Your step by step instructions walked me right through the replacement of my thermostat on my 2006. Thanks so much and a job well done sir!
Super clear video, and the tip about getting the bottom thermostat bolt from the bottom of the car was a lifesaver. Still really tough to access, but way easier than from the top. And you zip tie hack was brilliant - brilliant! Thanks Jordan
Jordan your video was very useful, i did it step by step with my 2.3l Mazda 3 hatch back and it works!!! the car runs better than a month ago Thanks a lot!!!
Great video, if you are going to do this job, you need to watch this video twice. I fought a little with the screws holding the plastic cover on the bottom of the engine, but other than that it went exactly as shown and the tips saved me a pile of time.
Thank you so much for the how to! You saved me hundreds at the dealership. Very clear instructions and tips that made the job fast and efficient. Might need to change the music up a bit or skip it totally
Perfect video. Just did mine and everything went exactly how you laid it out and your tips were totally necessary for this DIYer to do the job without getting super frustrated. Thank you thank you
Thanks Jordan! This vid explained everything perfectly and I was able to complete the job in a very short time. Because I was doing the job in my driveway and didn't have the car jacked up, I elected to get the bottom thermostat bolt from above. It's not too hard but you have to guess where the bolt head is to find it.
Some points to consider re my 2006 Mazda 3 2.3L: I remove the bottom skid plate every time I change engine oil so it is not hard to remove. Use anti seize paste on the 7 bolts and it will be easier to remove. I noticed that the alternator/power steering belt had brown marks on the top. According to Mazda this is a sign that the belt tensioner pulley bearing is on its way out so I would suggest replacing the pulley as you have it out already. I would replace all the coolant hoses when replacing the thermostat if they haven't been replaced in a long time. This is my summer project next year (2019) to replace all hoses, coolant and thermostat. Regarding comments from others on a means to lift the front end, I made a wooden ramp with 2 x 8 timber. You will end up with a ramp 30 inches long by 7 inches high overall. Use shorter pieces that will end up looking like steps going up to overall 7 inches high. Don't forget to install a shorter piece at the very top to stop the car from rolling off the end! Normal steel ramps will not work as the front spoiler will hit the ramp before the front wheels are off the ground. Dec 17, 2018
i noticed you didn't disconnect the battery like a lot of people have told me to do regarding this DIY thermostat replacement. i found your video very helpful.
Thanks for the video! I did the repair yesterday, took me four hours but I'm a novice. My advice to anyone doing it is to pay very close attention when taking off the skid plate underneath. There's two interlocking sections of it which also kind of interlock into the bumper. Kind of a puzzle putting it back together. Easy to remove but reinstalling it especially without a lift was a bitch. Took about an hour but should have been easy. Also to anyone attempting this without a lift, it can definitely be done but for the 3rd (lower) bolt on the thermostat you'll definitely need a socket with a long extension (as shown in vid). It's not that hard if you have that.
Super video tutorial !! Concise n easy to follow !! Keep up what ur doing to help others. Be blessed !! Wish you added a link where you bought the thermostat is added info. Thnx !!
thank u so much my car was over heating watch ur video now I'm all good u save me a lot money if I was to take it to a shop they would of charged me more then 30 bucks
Thanks for the awesome video! Super appreciative of your knowledge. Noticed that the coolant I drained was green and the coolant the manual recommends is FL22 which is a blue coolant. Since I am not doing a flush should I stick with the green that's already in there? Also, I am paranoid about air being in the system. Is that something that will bleed itself through the circulation while refilling the coolant with the car running?
I know this was a year ago that you left this comment, but when you start the car with the reservoir cap off, the system will burp all the air out. If you notice your air doesn't blow hot or the car overheats, try jacking the front end up, take off the reservoir cap and give the car some gas. The force will push the excess air out.
I just took my drain plug out to change my antifreeze and for some reason I can not get my drain plug to screw back in. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts as to why this is not working for me? I have a 2006 Mazda 3 and the drain plug looks just like what you took out. I have tried removing the washer to see if I could get it to screw in because at first I thought maybe I could not compress the washer enough to get to the threads and get it started but it is almost like there are no threads for my drain plug to screw in to. I am confused and frustrated.
How did you bleed the air out of the system? Lots of videos on here show the mechanical end of everything but i filled the system up, no leaks and no hot air at an idle..lol 😮
+Bulat Iskhakov I would try leaving the radiator cap / filler cap open while the car is idling for a few minutes. There might be air trapped in the system and it needs to "burp" to get it out.
thanks for this i'm about to change mine out soon. my only question is about the coolant. how can i be sure that the coolant that i bought is the same as the one in my car already? i'm afraid mixing two different ones isn't healthy for the car
ghavin manzo If you look in your car Manual there's a section on fluids (oil, Coolant etc..) and it will tell you what type. I belive it's FL22. You can also try looking on the rad cap/overflow cap in your engine bay.
Hey Jordan, thank you for your video. I'll be performing this step by step this weekend but I was wondering if this require me to bleed my cooling system and if I do have to bleed how its done? Thank you.
+Javimeleshe Cruz Just bleed it how it's shown. Open the Drain cap at the bottom and let it all run out. This is done so that no coolant leaks out as you're removing the hoses or thermostat itself.
+Javimeleshe Cruz There shouldn't be too much air. By leaving the filler cap open as the car idles it will circulate the coolant and allow any air that cycled through to be released. Just keep an eye on the level and top up as needed.
great video man! I just did this replacement last night but misplaced my radiator drain plug. I looked for hours, can't find it. Do you know the dimensions of it? I've looked all around the local shops for a replacement, nothing. I'm thinking about just heading over to Ace Hardware to get a similar bolt but I don't know what the specs are on just the plug. Any help?
+chridavida Maybe Something along the lines of here? www.zoomzoomnationparts.com/a/Mazda_2006_320L--Automatici/_53892_6000893/RADIATOR--COMPONENTS/5417120.html Really depends where you're located. Call a dealer and ask. If it is a similar price, might be easier and faster to order there.
+Jordan Koch . Thanks again. I just went to ACE and bought a couple different sized/length screws. Ended up with the 10Mx25mm screw. Looks just like this one: www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-32-x-1-in-Internal-Hex-Socket-Cap-Head-Cap-Screws-2-Pack-804628/204604808. And a rubber washer to seal it. Works so far.
will this ECU thermostat code turn on if lets say.. the radiator or radiator fan is broken and not cooling the engine??... i don't want to buy this thermostat if the therm is fine and its actually the radiator thats busted.. i can tell by looking at it, that its dented in, and the fan behind it is hard to turn by hand and takes a lot of force to turn.
Lewis Morra P0126 error Is caused by Low engine coolant level Faulty thermostat Faulty coolant temperature sensor (CTS) CTS electrical wiring or connector problem - open, short, or poor connection If your fan is broken you should be noticing higher than optimal engine temperatures which could cause a number of different codes to appear. I'd recommend fixing your fan first.
Sorry, forgot to ask if you got the new thermostat from a Mazda dealer or just from a parts store? Any brand you recommend? I read on Mazda3Forums.com that the OEM Mazda part tends to last longer than aftermarket/generic ones. What do you think?
+Jason Reece I personally bought an OEM Thermostat and it seemed to fit my needs, The auto part world is vast, and doing a little research can go a long way. In my opinion, I would use OEM parts.
Thanks Jordan. I ordered a new one from the Mazda dealer that I buy discounted OEM parts from. It should be here tomorrow. BTW, how many miles do you have on your '06?
My 2007 seems to be overheating getting code po117 intermittently, replaced t stat, and fan, fan never comes on ran temp to 232F still no fan, fuse is good, any ideas?
modelfreak125 Check to see if you have power and ground at the fan. If you do, your fan is bad, if you don’t, you’re gonna have to get a wiring diagram and figure out where it gets it’s power from and go from there
when you drain the coolant, and u talk about the plastic thing on the screw... when you grab it with the pliers, do u grab the screw itself? Or the plastic around it?
MayJay202 You grab the screw itself. It has a bushing that holds it from springing free when loose. once you've back it off and it feels like it's just spinning in place (Kind of like a stripped screw would feel) you can use pliers to pull it out.
Jordan Koch okay, I got that out, drained all the fluid! Thanks for that! Noow... I got the belt off and up out of the way. But I can't get the bolts off the tensioner. The three bolts? I can't get any of them off. One of my sockets actually broke, like one of the sides cracked out. Do u know how I could solve this problem?
The belt removed in the video is a serpentine belt, and it runs the alternator, Ac compressor etc... Mazda 3's of this year have a timing chain so noting to worry about! Hope this helps.
This bud deserves a Gold Medal, thank you so much !
Hey Jordan, I really appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video. I have a 2006 Mazda3 just like yours except mine's a 5-door. I've had it since it was new (10yrs last month) and as much as I love it, a lot of maintenance and repairs are a major pain in the ass compared to other cars! Changing the PCV valve and even the cabin air filter each take a few hours when I could do it in 30 minutes on any of my Hondas.
I had no idea that I needed a new thermostat until I took it in for emissions testing earlier this week. It only has 98k miles on it and has new plugs and fluids but it failed the emissions test. The printout showed that Code P0126 was the reason. The Check Engine Light didn't come on and I wouldn't have had a clue until the light came on if I hadn't caught it in the test. Anyway, I'm planning to change mine on Saturday. If you hadn't posted such a detailed video, I probably would have spent $150-$200 to have my local mechanic do it....YOU ROCK!
Awesome instructional video. and it made me lol too. "aaand if we don't remove the old gasket, you'll have two gaskets which equals no gaskets" hahah. Thanks!
One of the best tutorials on youtube! Very easy to follow and you even corrected yourself when you called a bolt a nut.. kudos sir!
I found a good way to keep the coolant from gushing out when you take out the radiator plug is to not unscrew the reservoir cap until after you remove the radiator plug. Then you can control the outflow of coolant by slowly unscrewing the reservoir cap while you watch from above as the coolant streams out. It's easier to avoid a mess this way.
aredesuyo thanks for the tip
I found it's much easier to combine this method with my method of taking a 1ft piece of old watering hose, slide it over the drain hole and then unscrew the reservoir cap, directed the coolant straight into my drain pan no splashing gushing or mess.
Ignore my previous comments! Thank you for posting this! I know almost nothing about cars and I used this video alone to change my thermostat, and it worked! Everything turned out perfectly! Thanks again!
Absolutely great video. Your step by step instructions walked me right through the replacement of my thermostat on my 2006. Thanks so much and a job well done sir!
Super clear video, and the tip about getting the bottom thermostat bolt from the bottom of the car was a lifesaver. Still really tough to access, but way easier than from the top. And you zip tie hack was brilliant - brilliant! Thanks Jordan
Jordan your video was very useful, i did it step by step with my 2.3l Mazda 3 hatch back
and it works!!!
the car runs better than a month ago
Thanks a lot!!!
Great video, if you are going to do this job, you need to watch this video twice. I fought a little with the screws holding the plastic cover on the bottom of the engine, but other than that it went exactly as shown and the tips saved me a pile of time.
Thank you so much for the how to! You saved me hundreds at the dealership. Very clear instructions and tips that made the job fast and efficient. Might need to change the music up a bit or skip it totally
Perfect video. Just did mine and everything went exactly how you laid it out and your tips were totally necessary for this DIYer to do the job without getting super frustrated. Thank you thank you
Clear and concise. Best Mazda instructional video Ive ever seen!
Thanks Jordan! This vid explained everything perfectly and I was able to complete the job in a very short time. Because I was doing the job in my driveway and didn't have the car jacked up, I elected to get the bottom thermostat bolt from above. It's not too hard but you have to guess where the bolt head is to find it.
First auto tutorial I’ve ever watched that was actually helpful. Thank you very much for making this video!
Some points to consider re my 2006 Mazda 3 2.3L: I remove the bottom skid plate every time I change engine oil so it is not hard to remove. Use anti seize paste on the 7 bolts and it will be easier to remove. I noticed that the alternator/power steering belt had brown marks on the top. According to Mazda this is a sign that the belt tensioner pulley bearing is on its way out so I would suggest replacing the pulley as you have it out already. I would replace all the coolant hoses when replacing the thermostat if they haven't been replaced in a long time. This is my summer project next year (2019) to replace all hoses, coolant and thermostat. Regarding comments from others on a means to lift the front end, I made a wooden ramp with 2 x 8 timber. You will end up with a ramp 30 inches long by 7 inches high overall. Use shorter pieces that will end up looking like steps going up to overall 7 inches high. Don't forget to install a shorter piece at the very top to stop the car from rolling off the end! Normal steel ramps will not work as the front spoiler will hit the ramp before the front wheels are off the ground. Dec 17, 2018
Jordan, this video is going to save me hundreds of dollars. Thank you very much for posting it.
Did it without a lift, followed the video, everything went well. Drive onto a curb if you don’t have a lift. Awesome video.
Dang Bro.. you made my job easy. i follow your steps by steps and it works.. YOU ROCK !!!
thanks again
Finally! I've been looking for a video this helpful! I needed for my 2007 Mazda6 as they share the same engine.
i noticed you didn't disconnect the battery like a lot of people have told me to do regarding this DIY thermostat replacement. i found your video very helpful.
One of the best tutorial. Very clear and also some useful tricks. Good job
Tie wrap on the channel locks is a good tip...
Thanks for the video! I did the repair yesterday, took me four hours but
I'm a novice. My advice to anyone doing it is to pay very close
attention when taking off the skid plate underneath. There's two
interlocking sections of it which also kind of interlock into the
bumper. Kind of a puzzle putting it back together. Easy to remove but
reinstalling it especially without a lift was a bitch. Took about an
hour but should have been easy. Also to anyone attempting this without a
lift, it can definitely be done but for the 3rd (lower) bolt on the
thermostat you'll definitely need a socket with a long extension (as
shown in vid). It's not that hard if you have that.
Thanks for the help! Newbie, so took me a couple hours but your video helped me figure it out!
Great video! Followed your instructions and had a quick and successful repair. Thanks!
Thanks a lot man for taking the time to make the video! Really appreciate it
Super video tutorial !! Concise n easy to follow !! Keep up what ur doing to help others. Be blessed !! Wish you added a link where you bought the thermostat is added info. Thnx !!
I would say this is a perfect demonstration video. Like your garage
thanks! your video covers all the details and with some practical tips,very helpful
Thanks Jordan, this was great help!
Video well done, clear and helpful 👍🏼👍🏼
Amazing video man. Helped me do my first DIY job. Thank you so much!
+Samee Motiwala Glad I could help!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make this video and for the good tips! 💪🏻
Great descriptions on the hassle steps. Thanks a lot
thank u so much my car was over heating watch ur video now I'm all good u save me a lot money if I was to take it to a shop they would of charged me more then 30 bucks
Thanks for the video, you made this job easy!
Great video was very helpful!
Just curious, I know you didnt mention it in the video. But, do you have to purge the system after adding the coolant?
Great video, very nicely done.
Thank you. Very good video. Very helpful!
Thank you for the DIY, Mazda 3 2007 is now fixed. Code P0126 is gone. Also I have to replace the ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature. Helps a lot!
excellent video thanks for making it
Good video and easy instructions
Thanks man, helpful video
Awesome video, thank you!
Good video thank you! It was very helpful!!👍
awsome great video.just did mine .went just like video.wiretie trick was great.
So your thermostat came with an integrated gasket?
Great video , nicely done...
Thanks for the awesome video! Super appreciative of your knowledge. Noticed that the coolant I drained was green and the coolant the manual recommends is FL22 which is a blue coolant. Since I am not doing a flush should I stick with the green that's already in there? Also, I am paranoid about air being in the system. Is that something that will bleed itself through the circulation while refilling the coolant with the car running?
I know this was a year ago that you left this comment, but when you start the car with the reservoir cap off, the system will burp all the air out. If you notice your air doesn't blow hot or the car overheats, try jacking the front end up, take off the reservoir cap and give the car some gas. The force will push the excess air out.
Made the job easy, thanks
Great video. Thank you.
Awesome video! I plan to do this soon. I wish I had a lift :( hahaha.
I just took my drain plug out to change my antifreeze and for some reason I can not get my drain plug to screw back in. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts as to why this is not working for me? I have a 2006 Mazda 3 and the drain plug looks just like what you took out. I have tried removing the washer to see if I could get it to screw in because at first I thought maybe I could not compress the washer enough to get to the threads and get it started but it is almost like there are no threads for my drain plug to screw in to. I am confused and frustrated.
How do I get one of these cool lifts? It would make everything so much easier.
Thank you very much Jordan! :D
Great video!
Thanks Jordan If your ever in cape cod Ma area I'm hookin you up with a cold Sam Adams Boston lager , awesome video Cheers!🍺
Excellent Information Sir!
What song is that in your intro Man?!? It touched my soul!
Im doing ny alternator also can i reach it all from the bottom?
Nice video thank you So much !!
How did you bleed the air out of the system?
Lots of videos on here show the mechanical end of everything but i filled the system up, no leaks and no hot air at an idle..lol 😮
mazda made this a real fun chore....
perfect thanks for the video
Thanks for posting this my Canadian friend. The Haynes manual is utterly wrong and useless for this procedure.
very well detailed video step by step..A++. Doyou mind making a waterpump replacement as well same make and model?
Nice video. Thanks!
Thank you very mach for a wonderful video. Just replaced mine. Could you please tell how long the gurgling sound should last after the replacement?
+Bulat Iskhakov
I would try leaving the radiator cap / filler cap open while the car is idling for a few minutes. There might be air trapped in the system and it needs to "burp" to get it out.
excelente video amigo.
Anyone know why when I take the radiator plug off it doesn't drain? And has what looks like white stuff stopping the coolant from coming out.
Anyone know where the thermostat is located on a 1998 Mazda 626 lx
thanks for this i'm about to change mine out soon. my only question is about the coolant. how can i be sure that the coolant that i bought is the same as the one in my car already? i'm afraid mixing two different ones isn't healthy for the car
ghavin manzo If you look in your car Manual there's a section on fluids (oil, Coolant etc..) and it will tell you what type. I belive it's FL22.
You can also try looking on the rad cap/overflow cap in your engine bay.
Is there a chance someone stripped or replaced mine to a 13mm fir the tensioner because my 14 slips
helped so much
bro the video help me alot did you know how bleed the coolant
If you squeeze the spring clamp open enough it should lock open if it isn't worn too bad FYI
Can u use just water instead of coolent
Good video!
Thank you Jordan for the excellent video. Is the engine a 4 or 6 cylinder?
Mine was a 4 cylinder 2.0 litre
What’s the name of the first hose you took off at 7:30 ?
Hi Guy. My mazda 3 not turn on the fan. Can you help me please? What can I do to solve?
does this work for a 2011 Mazda 3
Hey Jordan, thank you for your video. I'll be performing this step by step this weekend but I was wondering if this require me to bleed my cooling system and if I do have to bleed how its done? Thank you.
+Javimeleshe Cruz
Just bleed it how it's shown. Open the Drain cap at the bottom and let it all run out.
This is done so that no coolant leaks out as you're removing the hoses or thermostat itself.
I mean bleed the AIR out of the system.
+Javimeleshe Cruz
There shouldn't be too much air. By leaving the filler cap open as the car idles it will circulate the coolant and allow any air that cycled through to be released. Just keep an eye on the level and top up as needed.
+Jordan Koch Thank you, I did it this morning.It took me almost 3 hours but I did it. My car is back to normal operating temperature!!
+Javimeleshe Cruz
Glad to Hear!
What is the intro music, I love it :) ! Band or song name ? and thx for the tutorial !
great video man! I just did this replacement last night but misplaced my radiator drain plug. I looked for hours, can't find it. Do you know the dimensions of it? I've looked all around the local shops for a replacement, nothing. I'm thinking about just heading over to Ace Hardware to get a similar bolt but I don't know what the specs are on just the plug. Any help?
+chridavida Maybe Something along the lines of here?
www.zoomzoomnationparts.com/a/Mazda_2006_320L--Automatici/_53892_6000893/RADIATOR--COMPONENTS/5417120.html
Really depends where you're located.
Call a dealer and ask. If it is a similar price, might be easier and faster to order there.
+Jordan Koch .
Thanks again. I just went to ACE and bought a couple different sized/length screws. Ended up with the 10Mx25mm screw. Looks just like this one: www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-32-x-1-in-Internal-Hex-Socket-Cap-Head-Cap-Screws-2-Pack-804628/204604808. And a rubber washer to seal it. Works so far.
Tks bro
Thanks buddy, was able to fix my girlfriend's car
That top-right bolt was a borderline nightmare. I had to work it back on with a 8mm box wrench, 1/8th of a turn at a time.
My problem exactly right now, I’m definitely going to feel it tomorrow..
@@JP-zz5rm Hah! Not having to remove the manifold is a win win though. Your motor and your freezing hands will be thankful. 😉
I noticed you replaced the entire thermostat, black plastic housing as well. is there a downside to only replacing the thermostat itself?
I wouldn't imagine so, as ,long as the gasket is still in good condition. Where I ordered the part from, it came as the whole unit. Hope that helps!
will this ECU thermostat code turn on if lets say.. the radiator or radiator fan is broken and not cooling the engine??... i don't want to buy this thermostat if the therm is fine and its actually the radiator thats busted.. i can tell by looking at it, that its dented in, and the fan behind it is hard to turn by hand and takes a lot of force to turn.
Lewis Morra P0126 error Is caused by Low engine coolant level Faulty thermostat Faulty coolant temperature sensor (CTS) CTS electrical wiring or connector problem - open, short, or poor connection
If your fan is broken you should be noticing higher than optimal engine temperatures which could cause a number of different codes to appear.
I'd recommend fixing your fan first.
Sorry, forgot to ask if you got the new thermostat from a Mazda dealer or just from a parts store? Any brand you recommend? I read on Mazda3Forums.com that the OEM Mazda part tends to last longer than aftermarket/generic ones. What do you think?
+Jason Reece
I personally bought an OEM Thermostat and it seemed to fit my needs, The auto part world is vast, and doing a little research can go a long way.
In my opinion, I would use OEM parts.
Thanks Jordan. I ordered a new one from the Mazda dealer that I buy discounted OEM parts from. It should be here tomorrow. BTW, how many miles do you have on your '06?
+Jason Reece I'm from Canada but the conversion tells me it's just over 100k miles.
My 2007 seems to be overheating getting code po117 intermittently, replaced t stat, and fan, fan never comes on ran temp to 232F still no fan, fuse is good, any ideas?
modelfreak125 Check to see if you have power and ground at the fan. If you do, your fan is bad, if you don’t, you’re gonna have to get a wiring diagram and figure out where it gets it’s power from and go from there
when you drain the coolant, and u talk about the plastic thing on the screw... when you grab it with the pliers, do u grab the screw itself? Or the plastic around it?
MayJay202 You grab the screw itself. It has a bushing that holds it from springing free when loose. once you've back it off and it feels like it's just spinning in place (Kind of like a stripped screw would feel) you can use pliers to pull it out.
Jordan Koch okay, I got that out, drained all the fluid! Thanks for that! Noow... I got the belt off and up out of the way. But I can't get the bolts off the tensioner. The three bolts? I can't get any of them off. One of my sockets actually broke, like one of the sides cracked out. Do u know how I could solve this problem?
Damn bottom bolt busted in half 😩how to get out?
the belt diagram surpentine aint one on it or in it over it underr it in out over under over in over
Any reason I couldn't do this without putting my car on jack stands? Trying to avoid buying them.
You could do it on the ground with a jack (or two), assuming you fit under the car for the few times needed.
What's the torque specs ?
This took me forever because the previous owner of 11 years did tons of damage to the skid plate. It took forever to get it off.
If I take the timing belt off does it take it off timing? I'm not sure if you could understand my question but if I do that does the timing go off?
The belt removed in the video is a serpentine belt, and it runs the alternator, Ac compressor etc... Mazda 3's of this year have a timing chain so noting to worry about! Hope this helps.
Jordan Koch thank you man!