I worked for a pipeline company as a driver...way wrong...it has to be in the middle of trailer..an belly wrapped...yes take measures to protect the factory coating on it
Never strap something to a side of a trailer. Center it and wrap a strap around the pipe so that it will never move from side to side. The minute you leave the yard, that pipe will roll and immediately loosen the strap. I will V- block any pipe I haul and screw the V-blocks to the wood on each side of the pipe. You have a long way to go, the items on your trailer are tied wrong, but at least you know the law when your picking your items off the road or out of the ditch after they come off the trailer. Go to a truck stop and observe all of the flat bed loads and how they do it. Some might be like you as well, not a seasoned hauler. Common sense is the biggest part of it. never think it is good enough, ALWAYS throw another strap on it for safety.
Your blocking under your spools isnt even hitting the spools. I could tell you how to do it, but with all the people on here praising you for your monkey tie down job, Common sense evades this video an so does the majority of people commenting on it, they know as little as you do, otherwise they wouldnt be praising you for it.
According to FMCSA, only one form of securement is needed if load is under 5’ and 1100lbs “Minimum Number of Tiedowns The cargo securement system used to restrain articles against movement must meet requirements concerning the minimum number of tiedowns. This requirement is in addition to complying with rules concerning the minimum working load limit. When an article of cargo is not blocked or positioned to prevent movement in the forward direction, the number of tiedowns needed depends on the length and weight of the articles. There must be - one tiedown for articles 5 ft or less in length, and 1,100 lbs or less in weight; two tiedowns if the article is - 5 ft or less in length and more than 1,100 lbs in weight; or greater than 5 ft but less than 10 ft, regardless of weight. In the following example, one tiedown is required because the article of cargo is 5 ft in length and does not exceed 1,100 lbs. If the article of cargo were greater than 5 ft in length but less than 10 ft, two tiedowns would be needed regardless of the weight. When an article of cargo is not blocked or positioned to prevent movement in the forward direction, and the item is longer than 10 ft in length, then it must be secured by two tiedowns for the first 10 ft of length, and one additional tiedown for every 10 ft of length, or fraction thereof, beyond the first 10 ft. An example of this is provided below. If an article is blocked, braced or immobilized to prevent movement in the forward direction by a headerboard, bulkhead, other articles that are adequately secured, or other appropriate means, it must be secured by at least one tiedown for every 10 ft of article length, or fraction thereof.” Follow this link- www.fmcsa.dot.gov/sites/fmcsa.dot.gov/files/docs/Drivers_Handbook_Cargo_Securement.pdf
From the FMCSA web site: Proper Use of Tiedowns The new regulations require each tiedown to be attached and secured in a manner that prevents it from becoming loose, unfastening, opening or releasing while the vehicle is in transit. All tiedowns and other components of a cargo securement system used to secure loads on a trailer equipped with rub rails must be located inboard of the rub rails whenever practicable. Also, edge protection must be used whenever a tiedown would be subject to abrasion or cutting at the point where it touches an article of cargo. The edge protection must resist abrasion, cutting and crushing. And elsewhere FMCSA states, that "when practical" was referring to wide loads that protrude out beyond the rub rail.
Ok, the original ruling was set in 2002. And then reversed in 2006. But there is still controversy over the safety of using the rub rail. Here is another take on it. This comes from JJ Keller. As the name implies, a trailer’s rub rails are designed to “rub” against other objects (walls, highway barricades, etc.), absorb the impact, and protect the trailer from damage. Perhaps more importantly, they’re also designed to protect the chains, straps, and ropes commonly used to secure cargo on the trailer. By routing such tiedowns between the rub rail and the deck of the trailer, the driver can protect the tiedowns from impacts to the side of the trailer.Recognizing the important role that rub rails can play in keeping cargo secure, the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) adopted a rule in 2002 requiring drivers to route tiedowns inboard of the rub rails “whenever practicable.” The rule was also adopted in Canada as part of the North American Cargo Securement Standard.Enforcement problems with the new rule became apparent soon after the agency started enforcing it. Many carriers were faced with a difficult choice: route tiedowns inboard of the rails and attach them directly to the underside of the trailer, potentially risking improper securement, or attach them using standard industry practices and risk being issued a fine or being placed out of service by enforcement personnel who have a different interpretation of “practicable.”Noting that tiedown failure caused by trailers rubbing against fixed objects is “extremely rare,” the FMCSA decided in 2005 that removing the rub-rail rule would not detract from highway safety and would make enforcement more consistent. Despite objections from Canadian officials, the FMCSA issued a final rule in June 2006, rescinding the prohibition on routing tiedowns outside the rub rails.Thus, drivers and carriers are no longer prohibited from routing their tiedowns on the outside of the rub rails. But should your company allow it?The decision is yours to make, but there are good reasons NOT to route tiedowns on the outside of the rub rails or attach them to the rub rails:If your chains or straps are located outside the rub rails and you rub the trailer against a wall, barricade, or other object, your tiedowns - and not the rub rails - could take the brunt of the impact. And it goes without saying that damaged tiedowns are dangerous, potentially leading to an out-of-service vehicle, damaged cargo, and/or a serious accident.Rub rails are normally designed to protect tiedowns, not support them. In fact, most rub rails are not rated by the manufacturer for cargo securement purposes. Given the abuse many rub rails are subject to, they may not be strong enough to serve as anchor points, especially when constructed of aluminum which can bend and crack easily. Stake pockets are a better choice for securing tiedowns.Of course, there are times when you have no other choice but to route tiedowns outside the rub rails or attach them directly to the rub rails. Drivers must use their best judgment when determining how best to route and attach tiedowns. But they should always keep the risks in mind: tiedowns routed outside the rails could become damaged, and rub rails to which tiedowns are attached could fail.Finally, when considering a vehicle purchase, consider trailers that allow for cargo securement without use of the rub rails. Stake pockets, low-profile sliding winches, tracks designed to accept tiedown plates, and other features allow rub rails to be reserved for their intended purpose - protecting the trailer and tiedowns.
Dot likes all ratchets on driver side due to easier view from mirror “not passenger where things are closer” view. And most ratchets have a 2 side strap to insert and then tighten any excess strap that most people miss...
I like putting two bungees on my ratchet handle and then hook that down to the rail just so that way my ratchet wont spin backwards and loosen up... just a thought.. I don't put bungees on the handles if the ratchet binder handle is low and the handle I'd against my deck
Just a FYI. When you have coated pipe you don't want your ratchet strap binders touching the pipe could cause damage to the coating. I either put a extra loop around the rub rail to position ratchet back or add a piece of carpet so ratchet won't touch coated pipe. And always take pictures! Keep up the great work
When I was training at TMC they told us to make sure we use 3 points of contact on the stake pocket with a chain, wrapping it around and hooking once doesn’t count for securement. Thought I’d pass that along and twisting the straps keeps keeps them from flapping in the wind. Great video you guys keep it safe out there!
Life On the Road HOTSHOT TRUCKING EDITION It might have been TMC standards one of their requirements. Email me the info if you find it, that’s why we’re here is to help each other out!
And idea---for pushing your straps/chains through the rolls, etc, try using a piece of PVC pipe, 8 ft with a notch cut in the end. 8 foot is long enough to reach across most loads and will lay in the bed of your truck for transport. Also, PVC is light weight.
I heard you say you used something 15 ft long to do it. 8 ft would be easier to handle. What made me think of it was my neighbor drives semi with flatbed hauling drywall. He has to tarp every load and uses a piece of PVC with a T on the end that has a slot in it, so he can set the edge protectors on the top of the stack of drywall under the strap.
I'd go over rail, up behind back of rail and over the top, and then hook it to the bottom. That way the strap going over the load will be over the hook, and it will make sure it can't bounce out unless the strap loosens enroute. Just a suggestion.
Nice job securing with the straps. At least you know about the abrasive damage to the straps and the deduction for damages. One suggestion is that you might want to have a couple of the 4" straps to go over the entire racks (red and green ). Just a suggestion. You did a real fine job on everything else. The one other thing is that I would be sure to use Grade 70 transportation chains and hooks,either 5/16 or 3/8 . Heads up when buying a chain set, BE SURE THAT THEY HAVE THE CORRECT HOOKS. I have noticed that if you buy a setup, sometimes whomever is putting the the sets together used the wrong hooks on the correct chains just to have DOT disqualified the new chains because of the hooks. Keep up the nice work,be safe and keep trucking
Hey guys I see you haul Freight and cars do you think it's possible to do both either or with a 40-foot flatbed or should I just go with a car hauler or only a flatbed but I wanted to do both seeing that it's hard to to get good loads when your just starting out
@@lifeontheroad_ thanks for the advice you guys keep it safe out there on the road...... o and ps one last question do you have to have a special kind of insurance for both of you guys to ride in the truck like a rider policy? and is it more expensive ?
I personally don't see the point of requiring tie-down straps to be placed inside the rubrail, but it is stated as such in the FMCSA Driver's Handbook on Cargo Securement. Go to Section 2 and scroll down to Tiedown use. www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/cargo-securement/drivers-handbook-cargo-securement-chapter-2-general-cargo-securement
@@lifeontheroad_ that's not what AZ CDL manual states. I use 1 strap for "item" such as tarp but if its cargo I use 2 straps. which is why your required to have 2 straps within first 10 ft.
Hi, guys love to watch your videos. I thought if you get a chance to check out Super Truckerdan VIDEO #101 ON LOADING REELS. He said you should never cross your chains inside the reels. He has some great videos on flat bedding. Keep the videos coming and have a great weekend.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I worked for a pipeline company as a driver...way wrong...it has to be in the middle of trailer..an belly wrapped...yes take measures to protect the factory coating on it
Never strap something to a side of a trailer. Center it and wrap a strap around the pipe so that it will never move from side to side. The minute you leave the yard, that pipe will roll and immediately loosen the strap. I will V- block any pipe I haul and screw the V-blocks to the wood on each side of the pipe. You have a long way to go, the items on your trailer are tied wrong, but at least you know the law when your picking your items off the road or out of the ditch after they come off the trailer. Go to a truck stop and observe all of the flat bed loads and how they do it. Some might be like you as well, not a seasoned hauler. Common sense is the biggest part of it. never think it is good enough, ALWAYS throw another strap on it for safety.
Your tight strap means nothing after your pipe rolls from the side and loosens your so-called, "tight strap".
Your blocking under your spools isnt even hitting the spools. I could tell you how to do it, but with all the people on here praising you for your monkey tie down job, Common sense evades this video an so does the majority of people commenting on it, they know as little as you do, otherwise they wouldnt be praising you for it.
I thought you have to have a minimum of 2 Straps no matter how small??
According to FMCSA, only one form of securement is needed if load is under 5’ and 1100lbs
“Minimum Number of Tiedowns
The cargo securement system used to restrain articles against movement must meet requirements concerning the minimum number of tiedowns. This requirement is in addition to complying with rules concerning the minimum working load limit. When an article of cargo is not blocked or positioned to prevent movement in the forward direction, the number of tiedowns needed depends on the length and weight of the articles. There must be - one tiedown for articles 5 ft or less in length, and 1,100 lbs or less in weight; two tiedowns if the article is -
5 ft or less in length and more than 1,100 lbs in weight; or
greater than 5 ft but less than 10 ft, regardless of weight.
In the following example, one tiedown is required because the article of cargo is 5 ft in length and does not exceed 1,100 lbs. If the article of cargo were greater than 5 ft in length but less than 10 ft, two tiedowns would be needed regardless of the weight. When an article of cargo is not blocked or positioned to prevent movement in the forward direction, and the item is longer than 10 ft in length, then it must be secured by two tiedowns for the first 10 ft of length, and one additional tiedown for every 10 ft of length, or fraction thereof, beyond the first 10 ft. An example of this is provided below. If an article is blocked, braced or immobilized to prevent movement in the forward direction by a headerboard, bulkhead, other articles that are adequately secured, or other appropriate means, it must be secured by at least one tiedown for every 10 ft of article length, or fraction thereof.”
Follow this link-
www.fmcsa.dot.gov/sites/fmcsa.dot.gov/files/docs/Drivers_Handbook_Cargo_Securement.pdf
From the FMCSA web site:
Proper Use of Tiedowns
The new regulations require each tiedown to be attached and secured in a manner that prevents it from becoming loose, unfastening, opening or releasing while the vehicle is in transit. All tiedowns and other components of a cargo securement system used to secure loads on a trailer equipped with rub rails must be located inboard of the rub rails whenever practicable. Also, edge protection must be used whenever a tiedown would be subject to abrasion or cutting at the point where it touches an article of cargo. The edge protection must resist abrasion, cutting and crushing.
And elsewhere FMCSA states, that "when practical" was referring to wide loads that protrude out beyond the rub rail.
Ok, the original ruling was set in 2002. And then reversed in 2006. But there is still controversy over the safety of using the rub rail. Here is another take on it. This comes from JJ Keller.
As the name implies, a trailer’s rub rails are designed to “rub” against other objects (walls, highway barricades, etc.), absorb the impact, and protect the trailer from damage. Perhaps more importantly, they’re also designed to protect the chains, straps, and ropes commonly used to secure cargo on the trailer. By routing such tiedowns between the rub rail and the deck of the trailer, the driver can protect the tiedowns from impacts to the side of the trailer.Recognizing the important role that rub rails can play in keeping cargo secure, the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) adopted a rule in 2002 requiring drivers to route tiedowns inboard of the rub rails “whenever practicable.” The rule was also adopted in Canada as part of the North American Cargo Securement Standard.Enforcement problems with the new rule became apparent soon after the agency started enforcing it. Many carriers were faced with a difficult choice: route tiedowns inboard of the rails and attach them directly to the underside of the trailer, potentially risking improper securement, or attach them using standard industry practices and risk being issued a fine or being placed out of service by enforcement personnel who have a different interpretation of “practicable.”Noting that tiedown failure caused by trailers rubbing against fixed objects is “extremely rare,” the FMCSA decided in 2005 that removing the rub-rail rule would not detract from highway safety and would make enforcement more consistent. Despite objections from Canadian officials, the FMCSA issued a final rule in June 2006, rescinding the prohibition on routing tiedowns outside the rub rails.Thus, drivers and carriers are no longer prohibited from routing their tiedowns on the outside of the rub rails. But should your company allow it?The decision is yours to make, but there are good reasons NOT to route tiedowns on the outside of the rub rails or attach them to the rub rails:If your chains or straps are located outside the rub rails and you rub the trailer against a wall, barricade, or other object, your tiedowns - and not the rub rails - could take the brunt of the impact. And it goes without saying that damaged tiedowns are dangerous, potentially leading to an out-of-service vehicle, damaged cargo, and/or a serious accident.Rub rails are normally designed to protect tiedowns, not support them. In fact, most rub rails are not rated by the manufacturer for cargo securement purposes. Given the abuse many rub rails are subject to, they may not be strong enough to serve as anchor points, especially when constructed of aluminum which can bend and crack easily. Stake pockets are a better choice for securing tiedowns.Of course, there are times when you have no other choice but to route tiedowns outside the rub rails or attach them directly to the rub rails. Drivers must use their best judgment when determining how best to route and attach tiedowns. But they should always keep the risks in mind: tiedowns routed outside the rails could become damaged, and rub rails to which tiedowns are attached could fail.Finally, when considering a vehicle purchase, consider trailers that allow for cargo securement without use of the rub rails. Stake pockets, low-profile sliding winches, tracks designed to accept tiedown plates, and other features allow rub rails to be reserved for their intended purpose - protecting the trailer and tiedowns.
Darn, I missed it. I wanted to see Buck Owens and Roy Clark.
Dot likes all ratchets on driver side due to easier view from mirror “not passenger where things are closer” view. And most ratchets have a 2 side strap to insert and then tighten any excess strap that most people miss...
@@lifeontheroad_ safe side?
I like putting two bungees on my ratchet handle and then hook that down to the rail just so that way my ratchet wont spin backwards and loosen up... just a thought.. I don't put bungees on the handles if the ratchet binder handle is low and the handle I'd against my deck
Justin i have an idea for you, its something i would like to do, but I don’t really have time but i think you may like the idea.
What do you got for me?
Just a FYI. When you have coated pipe you don't want your ratchet strap binders touching the pipe could cause damage to the coating. I either put a extra loop around the rub rail to position ratchet back or add a piece of carpet so ratchet won't touch coated pipe. And always take pictures! Keep up the great work
Love this video!! Thank you!!
Tire chocks strapped to bed, and holding coil from rolling!
Any risk of a chock ending up in traffic is 100% a no no for obvious reasons.
When I was training at TMC they told us to make sure we use 3 points of contact on the stake pocket with a chain, wrapping it around and hooking once doesn’t count for securement. Thought I’d pass that along and twisting the straps keeps keeps them from flapping in the wind. Great video you guys keep it safe out there!
Life On the Road HOTSHOT TRUCKING EDITION It might have been TMC standards one of their requirements. Email me the info if you find it, that’s why we’re here is to help each other out!
Are you running Cdl or non Cdl?
Good video. Thanks
Great job very informative keep them videos coming !!!
They are considered coils
And idea---for pushing your straps/chains through the rolls, etc, try using a piece of PVC pipe, 8 ft with a notch cut in the end. 8 foot is long enough to reach across most loads and will lay in the bed of your truck for transport. Also, PVC is light weight.
I heard you say you used something 15 ft long to do it. 8 ft would be easier to handle. What made me think of it was my neighbor drives semi with flatbed hauling drywall. He has to tarp every load and uses a piece of PVC with a T on the end that has a slot in it, so he can set the edge protectors on the top of the stack of drywall under the strap.
Thanks for sharing...👍🏻
Y did u not rap some of your straps
I see u did good job
I'd go over rail, up behind back of rail and over the top, and then hook it to the bottom. That way the strap going over the load will be over the hook, and it will make sure it can't bounce out unless the strap loosens enroute. Just a suggestion.
Good stuff thanks. Be safe and God Bless
True story on those suicide clamp on the chains unloading a coil off my truck under so much force threw my bar over the flatbed
Nice job securing with the straps. At least you know about the abrasive damage to the straps and the deduction for damages. One suggestion is that you might want to have a couple of the 4" straps to go over the entire racks (red and green ). Just a suggestion. You did a real fine job on everything else. The one other thing is that I would be sure to use Grade 70 transportation chains and hooks,either 5/16 or 3/8 . Heads up when buying a chain set, BE SURE THAT THEY HAVE THE CORRECT HOOKS. I have noticed that if you buy a setup, sometimes whomever is putting the the sets together used the wrong hooks on the correct chains just to have DOT disqualified the new chains because of the hooks. Keep up the nice work,be safe and keep trucking
Great video lots of Info. Nice job brother. Be safe and God bless
I'm 45 mins away from Toledo Tarps Detroit, Mi
Yessssssss! The most important video on UA-cam! Thanks guys! #notificationsquad #GoBlue LoL
Good video. Be safe out there Buckeyes
Hey guys I see you haul Freight and cars do you think it's possible to do both either or with a 40-foot flatbed or should I just go with a car hauler or only a flatbed but I wanted to do both seeing that it's hard to to get good loads when your just starting out
@@lifeontheroad_ thanks for the advice you guys keep it safe out there on the road......
o and ps one last question do you have to have a special kind of insurance for both of you guys to ride in the truck like a rider policy? and is it more expensive ?
That's funny I took one of those boom lifts from the same place in OH to VT.
I personally don't see the point of requiring tie-down straps to be placed inside the rubrail, but it is stated as such in the FMCSA Driver's Handbook on Cargo Securement. Go to Section 2 and scroll down to Tiedown use.
www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/cargo-securement/drivers-handbook-cargo-securement-chapter-2-general-cargo-securement
Negative, you ALWAYS have to have a minimum of 2 straps no matter the length or weight Plus 2 straps within the 1st 10 ft then 1 strap every 10 ft
@@lifeontheroad_ that's not what AZ CDL manual states. I use 1 strap for "item" such as tarp but if its cargo I use 2 straps. which is why your required to have 2 straps within first 10 ft.
I'll go with what my state says, I can never be cited for it if I do. Go with what your state says
Hi, guys love to watch your videos. I thought if you get a chance to check out Super Truckerdan VIDEO #101 ON LOADING REELS. He said you should never cross your chains inside the reels. He has some great videos on flat bedding. Keep the videos coming and have a great weekend.
Are you running CDL or non CDL?
THANK YOU didn’t know a belly rap DID NOT count as a tie down strap
👍
1st, I win nothing...lol
@@lifeontheroad_ Yeah....