Driveshaft in A6 C6 4F goes out without touching the suspension in front! You only have to turn the wheels and put the driveshaft up in gearbox direction :)
Thank you for that info, hopefully it will help someone! I have just followed the instructions in ELSA. But if there is a next time I will follow your advise👍
Do not use the torque wrench to do the 90 degree turning after you achieve the proper torque. It will permanently damage the wrench. Using a normal wrench instead.
Never ever remove the bolt for the top arms unless you have to, you can avoid this by tipping the driveshaft up, working round it which is a pain or by dropping the rear bottom arm off and moving the joint out of the way, it doesn't always pay to follow any workshop manuals on older cars, they don't come apart like new cars
vrbanana Hey! Can you please explain tipping the driveshaft up? Or perhaps as I already need to remove my subframe to install new mounts/bushes anyway, would it be simpler to just drop the lower rear arm off at the same time for this bearing/hub? Thanks 👍
Also might I add that when doing the driveshaft bolt never do it while the car is on the ground as this can ruin the wheel baring you have to do the 200nm while the car is off the ground then do the half turn while it is on the ground so anyone that will do it his way dont as it will most definitely cause premature failure but over all decent vid dude
Hi Johan, looks like you had a good time! You managed well, but you did A-lot of extra work! At first, I thought you were going to remove the entire spindle. There is no need to do much of anything with the drive shaft, but you will need a extended length triple square to get at the back side of those bearing flange bolts. As others have pointed out, you don't want to take out that pinch bolt above unless .....A) its loose and will slide out (like never, they are usually fused), and B) you absolutely have to! With a few extra tools, you won't need to disassemble so much for access. (watch some other youtube vids for ideas) and you can try your new techniques out on the other Three!! Thank you again for your Vid.
Steel bearing in cast aluminium leg = different expansion rates. Heat it up and the greater expansion of the aluminium loosens it. (Careful not to melt the ali though). Put the 4 bolts in half way and hit them progressively with a heavy lump hammer to drive the bearing out. Done loads of them. Also simple way to press the drive flange out of the old bearing is to put it in a vice and screw the 4 hub bearing housing bolts in with packing so that they push the back of the drive flange evenly as you tighten them, and push the flange out. Saves needing a press. Replace new bearing on flange by squeezing in a vice or tap it on using a suitable tube.
....very but very complicated and a lot of work is necessary I do not know why the good colleague disassembles the whole front suspension. Here you only need to remove the caliper and the brake disc. Of course, the front bolt of the drive thing must be removed. Then you can exchange the wheel bearing effortlessly.
Was going to state that you didn't need to remove a fiew things in order to accomplish this but looks like everyone that watched the video already said this
cool video. thought you hadn't heard of wd40 until you finally used it on removal of upper control arm bolt. the only two "special" tools are the welded hex bolt/extension for removal of the hub bolt, and the welded c-clamp for pressing/holding the upper control arm in place, right?
@@johanjacobsson9710 Thanks for the reply. 5 years have passed (sounds like a novel) - and the right front bearing on my 2008 A6 3,0 TDI Quattro has finally given up the ghost (or rather I've finally gotten around to change it at almost exactly 222 222 km). I'm now at the moment where the axle is removed, four bolts are taken out of the bearing assembly - but was unsure how to get the bearing assembly out of the spindle/hub - watched a chap from UK using a special slide hammer - which kinda sunk my mood as I don't have it - but watching this video once again just now gave the "go ahead" to continue - as a simple hammer and some persistence should do the trick just as well. Btw, I opted not to disconnect the two upper suspension links - not that it would be complicated (have so far replaced them all four, ie, on both sides) - just doesn't seem to be necessary. Thanks once again - and greetings from Latvia.
+Hagblecket behöver inte ta drivaxeln inne på lådan. ge fan i att släppa allt däruppe som han gjorde. släppte spindelleden nere ist. när du ska slå ut lagert, skruva ut bultarna max och slå på dom, om du fick nya med lagert. släpper enkelt då.
Driveshaft in A6 C6 4F goes out without touching the suspension in front! You only have to turn the wheels and put the driveshaft up in gearbox direction :)
Thank you for that info, hopefully it will help someone! I have just followed the instructions in ELSA. But if there is a next time I will follow your advise👍
Tried to find a video showing this. Any tips ? Thanks!
Do not use the torque wrench to do the 90 degree turning after you achieve the proper torque. It will permanently damage the wrench. Using a normal wrench instead.
Very good video, thans you
Never ever remove the bolt for the top arms unless you have to, you can avoid this by tipping the driveshaft up, working round it which is a pain or by dropping the rear bottom arm off and moving the joint out of the way, it doesn't always pay to follow any workshop manuals on older cars, they don't come apart like new cars
vrbanana
Hey! Can you please explain tipping the driveshaft up? Or perhaps as I already need to remove my subframe to install new mounts/bushes anyway, would it be simpler to just drop the lower rear arm off at the same time for this bearing/hub? Thanks 👍
Also might I add that when doing the driveshaft bolt never do it while the car is on the ground as this can ruin the wheel baring you have to do the 200nm while the car is off the ground then do the half turn while it is on the ground so anyone that will do it his way dont as it will most definitely cause premature failure but over all decent vid dude
Hi Johan, looks like you had a good time! You managed well, but you did A-lot of extra work! At first, I thought you were going to remove the entire spindle. There is no need to do much of anything with the drive shaft, but you will need a extended length triple square to get at the back side of those bearing flange bolts. As others have pointed out, you don't want to take out that pinch bolt above unless .....A) its loose and will slide out (like never, they are usually fused), and B) you absolutely have to! With a few extra tools, you won't need to disassemble so much for access. (watch some other youtube vids for ideas) and you can try your new techniques out on the other Three!! Thank you again for your Vid.
well done! nice tools. Thanks
You are welcome!
Do u need to get an alignment after pulling off the control arms?
Lots of work done here that didn't need to be.
why do you remove half of a car because of a damn bearing ?
As I wrote earlier I was just following ELSA. There are probably a lot of short cuts out there.
Great awesome video!!
Thank you!
Bra visning. Men det jag saknar är hur du får in hjulnaven in i hjullager.
Bra video, men bruk ikke momentnøkkelen til å dra 90/180 grader, den er ikke laget for det. :)
Bra! Tusen tack för det tipset!
Great vid but any idea how to get the bearing out when it is stuck in there please ????
Thank you! No as you can see I used a lot of force with a hammer to get the bearing out. If that does not work I am out of ideas.
I used a pneumaric chissel. Managed to get it in from the rear and gave the bolts (half way unscrewed) some work from behind. Came loose like nothing.
Steel bearing in cast aluminium leg = different expansion rates. Heat it up and the greater expansion of the aluminium loosens it. (Careful not to melt the ali though). Put the 4 bolts in half way and hit them progressively with a heavy lump hammer to drive the bearing out. Done loads of them. Also simple way to press the drive flange out of the old bearing is to put it in a vice and screw the 4 hub bearing housing bolts in with packing so that they push the back of the drive flange evenly as you tighten them, and push the flange out. Saves needing a press. Replace new bearing on flange by squeezing in a vice or tap it on using a suitable tube.
....very but very complicated and a lot of work is necessary I do not know why the good colleague disassembles the whole front suspension. Here you only need to remove the caliper and the brake disc. Of course, the front bolt of the drive thing must be removed. Then you can exchange the wheel bearing effortlessly.
Not true, you cannot reach the bearings bolts without removing cv axel and control arm
Was going to state that you didn't need to remove a fiew things in order to accomplish this but looks like everyone that watched the video already said this
cool video. thought you hadn't heard of wd40 until you finally used it on removal of upper control arm bolt. the only two "special" tools are the welded hex bolt/extension for removal of the hub bolt, and the welded c-clamp for pressing/holding the upper control arm in place, right?
Thank you! Yes you are right about the tools!
what size was the hex bolt for the hub bolt
@@tez8754 17mm unbraco/allen key
@@johanjacobsson9710 Thanks for the reply. 5 years have passed (sounds like a novel) - and the right front bearing on my 2008 A6 3,0 TDI Quattro has finally given up the ghost (or rather I've finally gotten around to change it at almost exactly 222 222 km). I'm now at the moment where the axle is removed, four bolts are taken out of the bearing assembly - but was unsure how to get the bearing assembly out of the spindle/hub - watched a chap from UK using a special slide hammer - which kinda sunk my mood as I don't have it - but watching this video once again just now gave the "go ahead" to continue - as a simple hammer and some persistence should do the trick just as well. Btw, I opted not to disconnect the two upper suspension links - not that it would be complicated (have so far replaced them all four, ie, on both sides) - just doesn't seem to be necessary. Thanks once again - and greetings from Latvia.
@@JurisKankalis I am so glad to hear that this video helped you. Good luck with the remaining work. Greetings from Sweden!
this was rather more work then u had to do. ...
+Simon Åkesson Tjena, är på g att byta vä fram på min A6. Vilken/Vilka delar i videon kan man skippa?
+Simon Åkesson ..
+Hagblecket behöver inte ta drivaxeln inne på lådan. ge fan i att släppa allt däruppe som han gjorde. släppte spindelleden nere ist. när du ska slå ut lagert, skruva ut bultarna max och slå på dom, om du fick nya med lagert. släpper enkelt då.
music?
The music is made by Danilo Catalan who is a close friend.
noneya biz where can I find it?
@@johanjacobsson9710 where can I find it?
m.soundcloud.com/d_cay/deadmau5-some-chords-dillon-francis-remix-dcay-cover
A lot of unnecessary work, the drive shaft does not need to be removed completely
Way too many unnecessary steps.