I am OBVIOUSLY not an electrician. But I am an old (79) guy with lots of digital logic experience. I knew I could find the answer here, but I thought I should try to work it out for myself, a job I expected to take between 5 and 15 minutes. 40 minutes later, I still hadn't gotten my head around it. I even resorted to fooling around with "truth tables" and considering the various possible switch combinations and outcomes. I probably could have worked it out this way although maybe I would only have formalized the problem still without figuring out how to wire the darn switches. It couldn't be that complicated, and it's not. In fact, it is the sort of simple solution that we call "elegant." But it is hard to get your head around it. Thanks, Paul, for turning on the light for me!
I'm 61 years old and have electrical work since 1978 and have never seen so many ways to use 3 way switch's (USA). Goes to show the old saying "Never to old to learn" holds true... Had to come back and buy you a cup of coffee...Thanks
words cannot express how much I appreciate you repeating the safety instructions for adding the brown sleeves so many times, it makes remembering it and how important it is so much easier, and youre not compromising on the top priority of safety in favor of making a more sleek and shorter video while also not unnecessarily going into detail about it
As an electrical apprentice this channel has helped me out alot , my instructors are great but having the diagram helps alot , I ain't the smartest , keep the videos coming !
I was an apprentice 40 years ago. You sound like you have Inititiative Bud…………..Ask lots of questions, break it down into portions that you feel comfortable with, and be on your toes. You’ll be Fine young fella. Good Luck 🇦🇺👍
Thank You for your simple explanation. L1 to L2 and the common to common did the trick for me. I had wires in the walls and you helped me more than any other video. Well done my-man. after this I won't need to watch another video again. have many times over the years. You are an incredible teacher
Same, I was like "If you make both switches connect to the light, you'd need one of activate one of them for the light to turn on but if both are turned on, the light will still be on. If you connect the switches together, you'll need to activate both of them. How does this work?!"
@Gigastar :) Yeah... but then again I first saw this in a building from 1968 in a communist country... I first thought of some diodes but there was no flickering :D
Hi Paul I installed downlights in my hallway, with a two way switch one at either end, after all plastering and paintwork completed I had to break open ceiling and walls which was heartbreaking, but this had to be done. I've used the option 1 from your vid, and works a treat, looks really well, I wouldn't have been able to do this without your very informative video with easy follow diagrams, thank you so very much for all in this case part of your knowledge. Keep up the brilliant work, now I've to go fill holes, thanks again.
Very intriguing. I definitely learned new ways to wire these switches. However, in America we're taught that the common terminal is always either for the hot wire or the wire going to the light. One mehod taught to us to wire these switches is exactly how you showed in the first demo; the hot wire in one swicth and the light wire in the other swicth. The other method taught is similar to your methods; both hot wire and light wire going to one swicth. In this method, we still connect either the hot or light wire to the first swicth common, and "L1 and L2" (we call these wires travellers) of the first swicth to the traveller terminals of the second swicth ("L1 and L2"), at this point only two conductors are ran between the two switches, with the hot or light wire connected to the common on the first. We still need a third conductor between the swicthes, however, the third wire goes to the common of the second switch and gets spliced in the box of the first swicth with which ever wire is not on the common on the first (hot or light). In other words, if one box has both hot and light wires in it then either wire is "extended" to go to the common of the second switch. Hope I explained it well enough.
@@rob5944 Red-green being the most common colour blindness, making that a bad combination. Mostly though, it's all about USA running their own standards, rest of the world is generally on the same page.
Someone working on (potentially) live wires are already dead to murphys law. Before working on electrics you should ALWAYS switch off the power, even if you are a cool dude that can work under some pressure, it is required by law (at least in eu) to do so.
It's not needed, first because you must assume all the wires are at live potential (220v), even neutral or ground could be at fault condition, and then black and gray are the colors that in a three phase supply are assigned to each phase, so you assume that they are live. In my country you are allowed to use any color you like for wires, except are not allowed to use for phase yellow/green (obviously), blue and also white (because it's typically used for low voltage cables like TV coax, alarm, network and telephone, and thus can be confused). That is useful especially because we use to have wires put inside pipes in the wall, and if you don't use different colors and you have 4 brown wires that enter a pipe, it's a bit of a problem to distinguish them on the other side. Also you can immediately identify the purpose of the wire if the electrician used color consistently in the whole house, for example in my home black wires are lights phase, brown plug phase, then other different colors for example orange, red and pink for switch wires, gray for thermostats, and so on.
This helped me enormously, I did it twice ! Before I discovered that lamp supplier had delivered 24 V lamps not 240 V lamps. Your wiring works perfectly ! Thankyou
i had electricity course in sweden but i never understood this not untill today i landed on this video.thanks man.i failed my job interview because of this connection but you have solved my worries again.keep it uo brother.
Hey Paul, you’re awesome! Could you do a video explaining how dimmer switches work; in 1950 when they used resistors and then how they now work using semiconductors? I’m struggling to visualize these concepts, thanks for all you’ve done for my understanding of electrical engineering!
@@Helladamnleet i think he didn't mean it resistor but variable resistor which is rheostats, trimmer, potentiometer and alike... in semiconductor, there is still potentiometer but that will be feed to the one of the input of operational amplifier ic, non inverting ic particularly, and the other input is fixed, then the output is somewhat amplified to form analog output that is being amplified...you can check some of the DIY circuit online...mostly they used op-amp or amplifier circuit itself...
this vieo was a life saver. i have swapped out light switches and sockets before. i had switch break, went to B&Q to get one that looks the same, took the old one off, and put the new one on, but got no get the 2 way to work. looked at other videos and the wieing colour was not the same, as the house was built 30+ years ago, i ended up with 3 red wire, a blue and a yellow/green wire. after wtaching this video and using a trster screw driver, worked out which was live wire and which was the return to the ligtht and then had to work out what the blue and green/yellow was equal to and turned out one way to two v1 was how it was wired up.
My great uncle, Everett Danforth Winters, invented the two-way light switch when he was an employee of Western Electric near Chicago, IL, likely in the 1930s. My mother always referred to him as an "electrical wizard." His basement in Berwyn IL had a narrow pathway thru a myriad of electrical equipment. He was always "tinkering". Of course, Western Electric claimed the patent. My uncle also invented another electrical device you use every day: The turn-signal return device inside your car's steering column. Western Electric also claimed that patent.
Michael Landis, the quick action switch was invented in 1864. If your claim is true then it took 66 years for human to add another contact point to the switch. Your uncle was truly a great inventor.
I had to clean out my back box and messed up the wiring on the two way. After using multiple images on Google, I found this video and fixed the issue in 5 mins. I owe you a Sunday 😂
I'm pretty sure I'll never have to install one of these, but once I started wondering how they worked it was bugging me not being able to figure it out, so thanks for letting me scratch that itch with such a clear explanation !
i live in Germany and i had this mysterious 2 way light switch in my apartment's hall and never figured it out till watched your video... it was really driving me crazy.... Thank you.
My house in Germany used a relay at the light and multiple low voltage momentary switches to toggle the relay. The whole house was wired this way. All switches were low voltage. The stepdown (low voltage) transformer powering the relay's electromagnet can be located next to each relay or centralized for the entire house. Some relays are integrated with their transformer. There are "many ways to remove the skin from a catfish."
i have been doing electrical (as a hobby) for 30 years...i used to break out books to do some stuff....your video was WAY BETTER then any book....i really appreciate your videos Paul
You're a good explainer. I like the way you showed how to, step by step, connect each wireoh, and how each wire reacts depending on how the switch flipped. Thanks so much. You did such a good job that even I could understand what you were saying and showing.
Only works in a trunking/conduit system. Household wiring uses 3 core cable. Regardless of how you do it (junction box, loop in lamps, loop in switches) it requires 3 core cable between the switches. So it's all the same, just the preference of the installer/ limitations of the installation. Side note there is such an invention as pear shape cable which could make it possible in a house but that's very very very rare and I don't know if you could even buy it now and long story short it wouldn't be cheaper.
Great video, helped me out lots. I now know what the red sleeves were on my light switch wires when I looked inside the switch to try and install a smart switch. They were intermittently live but with red bands instead of brown. Thank you!
I love your channel and you guys are way smarter than me. Having said that, I am an electrician and the switches in this video are known to me as 3 way switches. I am sure the content is solid and maybe they are called 2 way switches in other countries. If so , I humbly apologize. I enjoy your content and wish I could explain it all so well.
"Intermittently Live," that's a good band name 😉 Thanks so much for this, I always wondered how these worked - I can't believe how relatively simple is!
Just used my upstairs hallway light which has two switches. Wondered how it worked and couldn't figure it out, within 20 minutes found myself here. It one of those things which is easy to understand once you know how it works but is otherwise hard to figure out. Knew it would be something simple. Great video, especially how you showed the direction of the current
Wow, this has kept me up. The mystery is over. Now I would like to know how those lamps are wired with the center light and the three around it and how the switch turns on one light then two lights then third light with the grand finally of all of them including the one in the center. Good luck. 🥳
Very helpful - a big thank-you. The only thing I don't understand is why you'd use the 4 more complex versions of the connection in place of the "basic" version. EDIT: I answered my own question: it depends on the position of the live and the load - in the basic case the live comes into one switch while the load is connected to ther other switch. In other cases, the live and load might both come into one switch, hence the variations.
It's satisfying to get an idea of how the wiring works (I didn't even know there were several different ways of installing the circuit) but I think I'll still leave it to an electrician, thanks all the same. Here in the UK any electrical work now needs to be carried out by a qualified person anyway. Additionally it's important to have this paperwork when selling your house as you it may be required.
Just starting out as an electrician and your videos are very very helpful. I'm not sure I understand the difference between the 1 way switch with 3 terminals and a 3 way switch. If it has 3 terminals, why would it be considered a 1 way? And why can't you wire it the same as a 3 way?
A 1-way looks very similar to a 2-way (3-way in US) because they are manufactured the same, only the L2 terminal is missing. You can use a 2-way as a 1-way by just using the common and L1.
I’m an electrician…and this video was awesome! I am aware of how it works, but I have a feeling I will from now on recall this video whenever I install threeways…
I was able to practice all the versions successfully and I must say all of them makes supply available to them switches in case you need to loop a feed or live for fan
T H A N K Y O U, sooo much, I did light switching before lockdown so I was really confused if I should bridge my common and you just showed me the are many ways to kill a cat. I’m constructing a conduit circuit and yes I’m permitted since am a student at an engineering center, please make more . Goodluck
@@andraszabi The first example is where you are installing the switches both at the same time so you plan to have the wiring going supply->switch1->switch2->bulb all in order. The other examples are for when you start with just one switch in the circuit: supply->switch1->bulb and want to add another switch without changing which switch the bulb is wired into.
@@peepiepo ohh u r right I wasn't thinking to that.. But anyway u have to do the wiring BTW the switches.. so it's easyer to disconnect the wire from sw1, and send it to the sw2 commune, and add the 2communications wire also..
@@andraszabi I suppose he's making the point that in two of the examples, the switches are both in equality, and in the other two examples they are not in equality. Which way you choose would depend on which you were most comfortable using, and maybe one of the four ways might be best for an unusual situation?
On the four variants, V1 through V4, you named it "convert one-way switches to two-way switches,"-but the switches used are functionally equivalent to the ones used in the first configuration (2:15). You say at 2:55 to check if they have three terminals. If you can use them in a functionally equivalent manner to a two-way switch (3 terminals, Com, L1, L2, switch alternates between connecting Com-L1 and Com-L2), how are they any different than a two-way switch? And why could one not just simply arrange their 3-terminal one-way switch in the same configuration of the first example (2:15), which is simpler? (Instead of using V1, . . ., V4.)
Thanks, I see. So I guess it means more _convert your installation_ than _convert your switch_ (as I was thinking). As in _"convert your lamp installation from single-switch to long-corridor double-switch mode. (And you may already have a three-terminal switch in your single-switch installation, so you can reuse that.)"_ However, regarding V1 . . . V4 being extensions: As they are wired, V1 . . . V4 won't work as a one-way switch by _only_ removing the second switch. That happens because both pertinent wires are connected to L1 and L2, and the switch cannot be made to connect L1-L2. True, with a trivial modification (disconnecting one of the wires from L1/L2 and connecting it to Com) you can make it work as a single one-way switch installation should. However, it is worth noting that in the case of the first configuration (2:15), you may _also_ remove any one of the two switches, and with a trivial modification (permanently joining formerly Com-L1 wires of the removed switch) you can make the installation single switch again. Which of course is also true if do it in reverse (that is, adding the second switch, instead of removing it), and therefore variant 2:15 can be added "as an extension" just as much as V1 . . . V4. Regarding the first point, it is also worth noting that, not only 2:15, but also all configurations in V1 . . . V4 must have current going through _both_ switches when turned on-which is evident in the fact that in all four configurations V1 . . . V4, the current must go from L1 to L2 in the first switch for the circuit to be closed, and the switch cannot connect L1-L2: all the arriving paths on L2 come ultimately from the second switch. Thus, given that, in order to add a second switch in configurations V1 . . . V4 you need to do a terminal reassignment, and that the same applies to the first configuration, none of the five variants is really any _more_ of an "extension" option than the others-all can be applied to an existing installation, even the first one, 2:15. (Although it is true that V1 . . . V4 surely do _look_ like something someone would come up with, if they were trying to modify an existing installation, and the simpler 2:15 looks more as something to be come up with when designing from scratch.)
fsmoura while you are at it; another thing to point out, if we differentiate L1 and L2 (wich in reality does not matter because they are the same) but not wires by Color (Color does not change the cable properties) then v3 and v4 are the fucking same (except brown and black cable colours switched!) However if we now say L1 and L2 are the same thing then It all collapses and v1 thru 4 are all the same And yes that defeats the sense of staying close to reality where there is different labeling l1 and l2 (Further notice, please be consistent (bullet no. 11 ;-) ) and use the brown sleeves and the word intermittently correct, because in v1 and v4 the wire directly connected to live is NOT intermittently rather PERMANENT live therefore should be brown as in v2&v3)
V1-V4 appear to be all identical. Question remains, why use the "convert" configuration? I thought maybe it was to save a wire nut that would otherwise required on a conversion, but that still seems to be required because you can't put two wires under one screw. That is to say, once you've run 3 wires between the two switches you have effectively put both switches in the same box so you can actually wire them in anyway you like.
none of those configurations are ever used. They also stopped making switches with 2 contacts, it's all with 3 now. He also forgot to name the advanced hotel switching system where you can also install sockets without running a cable with 6 wires.
It all depends on the situation you have. If it is easier to run the switch leg to one switch, and you already have power at that switch, then running a 3-wire between the two switches would make sense. Some of the situations you find yourself in in some houses can be very challenging, especially when 20 foot ceilings are involved and large openings where support beams are required can make running electrical hard.
I'm with you on that, you'd only need a twin and earth and use the live and neutral, why our friend is going on to say you need a 3-wire is beyond me and I'm lost however I'm a chippy and no sparky 🤔🤷♂️
@@adamprice9214 B/c if your switch leg going to the light and your power is in the same switch box and you do not have either in the other switch box, you have to use the 3rd wire to return the switched leg back. A 3 way switch requires 3 wires. You also cannot mix neutrals between different circuits with the newer arc-fault breakers. So to do it your way would require either the switch leg and power in each box, or the same circuit in each switch box.
Well put together. I have a construction business in cambodia and trying to explain UK electrical to them was a nitemare this makes it very easy for them to understand thx you
As a kid, you tend to believe everything adults tell you :( Asked my dad how is this switching possible? He told me he hired some guy to stand by the switch at the other room. I Ran and went to the other room, and I went "No one here dad" He goes" he's over here now, if you run really fast, you just might catch him!" Got back to the other my dad went " Oh, damn, you just missed him" 😡 😠 To my Dad: (may he R.I.P.) I hate you now 😀 😁 😂hahaha.. Love u Dad! ❤️ Tell Mom I said hi❤️
In my country, people say "He who doesn't have it in his head, has it in his legs" (If you're not thinking, if you're forgetting, you're absent-minded, ignorant or just not that smart, you tend to go back and forth more often where you could have done it in one run or no run at all). 😉
Thanks. Figured out why my lights weren't working properly. Prior owners had a 3-way switch on one end and a 2-way switch on the other. Your video made it easy for me to figure out what was wrong. I went out and bought 2 new 3-way switches and it is working fine now.
Nice explanation. Those type of circuits probably won't play much of a role in the future, though. You could use wireless systems with only one switch, possibly included in the device (like a smart lamp) that cuts the electrical circuit when a wireless signal is received. That allows to add many light switches without any cables what so ever or even turn on the light with over devices like smartphones, voice control.
@@MeMolson I don't think this is meant to teach anybody how to wire a staircase switch. But just to inform curious people who'd like to know how this works.
The first way is great if you are using single core cables; in England this would usually be in conduit, seldom now used in houses. The other ways, which are virtually all the same, can be done with two core and earth cables and three core and earth cables; this is how it's usually done in houses here as it's simple to install and easily adaptable to the house layout.
The 1st one was built from the beginning to be a two way switch, so it was very simple to create. The others are conversions, and conversions are never as good as the real thing. Either you accept that it is not as good as the 1st, or you rip it all out and start from scratch.
The UK has 1 and 2 way and intermediate switches. But we can have like 1 gang, 2 gang, 3 gang etc. which is basically stating the amount of actually ‘switches’ the switch has
@@enzoperruccio no problem. if you look at how he illustrates the entire wiring, you can imagine a ceiling at the top and a wall parallel and in the same plane as your monitor screen (and 90 degrees to the ceiling), and he's doing his best to not only explain in theory the wiring but also as literal a visual diagram as he can
At about 3 minutes 15 seconds you start to explain how to convert one way to two way (version 1). The explanation starts with the light wired up to live and neutral but without any switch at all. So the explanation is actually how to convert no way (an unusual scenario) to two way. It would be a better explanation if you started from a diagram showing it wired through a switch (one way) and then how that is modified by wiring in a second switch (two way). I do find this stuff confusing!
Because someone decided that this would be less confusing for the end user. Remember that on a single switch light, the standard is flipping the toggle up is ON and flipping the toggle down is OFF. So by cross wiring a double switch it makes it most similar to a single switch. If you wired it your way, L1 to L1 and L2 to L2, then the light would be ON if both toggle switches were ON or both toggle switches are OFF. If you cross the wiring, L1 to L2 and L2 to L1, then the light will be ON if one of the switches is ON and the other is OFF. If both switches are ON or both switches are OFF then the light will be OFF. Like I said, someone thought that the cross wired way will be less confusing and made it the standard.
When I was in college, we were taught L1 to L1, L2 to L2. For the Ln & Lo you could connected in the C’s or alternatively Ln to L1 & Lo to L2. Depending on your wiring configuration. Seams simpler to me but that’s what I’m used to 🤷♂️
Easy to do with the 1st version. But then you would need a 4 terminal switch called a cross switch. Cut the wires between L1 and L2. You now have 4 wires. And (hurray) a cross switch has 4 terminals.. Ypu can extend this a million times if you like.
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why use gray or black wires when you can directly use brown wires where there's live voltages?
And logic
Both should be on to turn on the light
Or logic is more reliable
Only one switch from two can turn on the light
So we need to connect parallel to each other .
The Engineering Mindset .
I am OBVIOUSLY not an electrician. But I am an old (79) guy with lots of digital logic experience. I knew I could find the answer here, but I thought I should try to work it out for myself, a job I expected to take between 5 and 15 minutes. 40 minutes later, I still hadn't gotten my head around it. I even resorted to fooling around with "truth tables" and considering the various possible switch combinations and outcomes. I probably could have worked it out this way although maybe I would only have formalized the problem still without figuring out how to wire the darn switches. It couldn't be that complicated, and it's not. In fact, it is the sort of simple solution that we call "elegant." But it is hard to get your head around it.
Thanks, Paul, for turning on the light for me!
I'm 61 years old and have electrical work since 1978 and have never seen so many ways to use 3 way switch's (USA). Goes to show the old saying "Never to old to learn" holds true... Had to come back and buy you a cup of coffee...Thanks
Thank you for support, really much appreciated. We also have some dedicated US versions you'd likely enjoy, check out our other videos or website.
same they only teach the most simplest one
Not TOO old TO learn there are TWO o’s in TOO, too 🤭
@@pancakefingers2889 🤣 In don't smell the best...😜
words cannot express how much I appreciate you repeating the safety instructions for adding the brown sleeves so many times, it makes remembering it and how important it is so much easier, and youre not compromising on the top priority of safety in favor of making a more sleek and shorter video while also not unnecessarily going into detail about it
I have always wondered how this worked - thanks Paul!
Hey wait a minute....
@@itsmecaldo why not for hours or may be for years--
@@curiash my bad, "Hey wait a millenia"
@@itsmecaldo I
@@curiash e
As an electrical apprentice this channel has helped me out alot , my instructors are great but having the diagram helps alot , I ain't the smartest , keep the videos coming !
I was an apprentice 40 years ago. You sound like you have Inititiative Bud…………..Ask lots of questions, break it down into portions that you feel comfortable with, and be on your toes. You’ll be Fine young fella. Good Luck 🇦🇺👍
Hey, any update? Did you get qualified?
*USA Viewers* 3 Way switch video here: 👉 ua-cam.com/video/_u5ORnhqn8g/v-deo.html
If you’re qualified, you wouldn’t be watching this video😂. Good video, it jogged my memory👍👍
Thank You for your simple explanation. L1 to L2 and the common to common did the trick for me. I had wires in the walls and you helped me more than any other video. Well done my-man. after this I won't need to watch another video again. have many times over the years. You are an incredible teacher
Man this video just solved my childhood mystery
@Gigastar I thought of XOR gate as well..
Same, I was like "If you make both switches connect to the light, you'd need one of activate one of them for the light to turn on but if both are turned on, the light will still be on. If you connect the switches together, you'll need to activate both of them. How does this work?!"
same!
@Gigastar :) Yeah... but then again I first saw this in a building from 1968 in a communist country... I first thought of some diodes but there was no flickering :D
Sergi Sancho Mukhachev same
Hi Paul I installed downlights in my hallway, with a two way switch one at either end, after all plastering and paintwork completed I had to break open ceiling and walls which was heartbreaking, but this had to be done. I've used the option 1 from your vid, and works a treat, looks really well, I wouldn't have been able to do this without your very informative video with easy follow diagrams, thank you so very much for all in this case part of your knowledge. Keep up the brilliant work, now I've to go fill holes, thanks again.
Thank the lord someone showed an actual diagram showing how these switches work.
Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank You
THANK YOU!!!
Very intriguing. I definitely learned new ways to wire these switches. However, in America we're taught that the common terminal is always either for the hot wire or the wire going to the light. One mehod taught to us to wire these switches is exactly how you showed in the first demo; the hot wire in one swicth and the light wire in the other swicth. The other method taught is similar to your methods; both hot wire and light wire going to one swicth. In this method, we still connect either the hot or light wire to the first swicth common, and "L1 and L2" (we call these wires travellers) of the first swicth to the traveller terminals of the second swicth ("L1 and L2"), at this point only two conductors are ran between the two switches, with the hot or light wire connected to the common on the first. We still need a third conductor between the swicthes, however, the third wire goes to the common of the second switch and gets spliced in the box of the first swicth with which ever wire is not on the common on the first (hot or light).
In other words, if one box has both hot and light wires in it then either wire is "extended" to go to the common of the second switch.
Hope I explained it well enough.
I don't know why everyone doesn't use the same colour wires world-wide. Surely red, green and perhaps black or blue would make most sense?
Very good explaining it. I was taught calling the last of your example a dead end 3way
@@rob5944 it was way worse not too long ago, now L1 is brown, N is blue usually everywhere... and the black indicates a switched wire.
@@whoknows8225 🥴
@@rob5944 Red-green being the most common colour blindness, making that a bad combination.
Mostly though, it's all about USA running their own standards, rest of the world is generally on the same page.
Legend, and thanks for saying "put brown sleeve to show it's intermittently live" it really could save lives
Someone working on (potentially) live wires are already dead to murphys law. Before working on electrics you should ALWAYS switch off the power, even if you are a cool dude that can work under some pressure, it is required by law (at least in eu) to do so.
@@viggoavatar yeah that is true, should make sure all circuits are isolated and have no way of becoming live whilst you are working on them..
Well, this varies from country to country. Here in Sweden we have other colors for connecting to lamps and wire between switches.
It's not needed, first because you must assume all the wires are at live potential (220v), even neutral or ground could be at fault condition, and then black and gray are the colors that in a three phase supply are assigned to each phase, so you assume that they are live.
In my country you are allowed to use any color you like for wires, except are not allowed to use for phase yellow/green (obviously), blue and also white (because it's typically used for low voltage cables like TV coax, alarm, network and telephone, and thus can be confused).
That is useful especially because we use to have wires put inside pipes in the wall, and if you don't use different colors and you have 4 brown wires that enter a pipe, it's a bit of a problem to distinguish them on the other side. Also you can immediately identify the purpose of the wire if the electrician used color consistently in the whole house, for example in my home black wires are lights phase, brown plug phase, then other different colors for example orange, red and pink for switch wires, gray for thermostats, and so on.
@@alerighi i agree with you . British regs arr the same brown/ black/ grey are live .the sleeve is usedif brown /blue twin & esrth cable is used
This helped me enormously, I did it twice ! Before I discovered that lamp supplier had delivered 24 V lamps not 240 V lamps. Your wiring works perfectly ! Thankyou
One of the best presentations of this nature I've seen. Simple and to the point
i had electricity course in sweden but i never understood this not untill today i landed on this video.thanks man.i failed my job interview because of this connection but you have solved my worries again.keep it uo brother.
Hey Paul, you’re awesome! Could you do a video explaining how dimmer switches work; in 1950 when they used resistors and then how they now work using semiconductors? I’m struggling to visualize these concepts, thanks for all you’ve done for my understanding of electrical engineering!
Good idea
I don't know the working either, however, i think that one(each) of the leads have corresponding resistors.
They uses reostats, not resistors
@@Helladamnleet i think he didn't mean it resistor but variable resistor which is rheostats, trimmer, potentiometer and alike...
in semiconductor, there is still potentiometer but that will be feed to the one of the input of operational amplifier ic, non inverting ic particularly, and the other input is fixed, then the output is somewhat amplified to form analog output that is being amplified...you can check some of the DIY circuit online...mostly they used op-amp or amplifier circuit itself...
What is the advantage of convering one way to two way?
this vieo was a life saver.
i have swapped out light switches and sockets before.
i had switch break, went to B&Q to get one that looks the same, took the old one off, and put the new one on, but got no get the 2 way to work.
looked at other videos and the wieing colour was not the same, as the house was built 30+ years ago, i ended up with 3 red wire, a blue and a yellow/green wire.
after wtaching this video and using a trster screw driver, worked out which was live wire and which was the return to the ligtht and then had to work out what the blue and green/yellow was equal to and turned out one way to two v1 was how it was wired up.
My great uncle, Everett Danforth Winters, invented the two-way light switch when he was an employee of Western Electric near Chicago, IL, likely in the 1930s. My mother always referred to him as an "electrical wizard." His basement in Berwyn IL had a narrow pathway thru a myriad of electrical equipment. He was always "tinkering". Of course, Western Electric claimed the patent. My uncle also invented another electrical device you use every day: The turn-signal return device inside your car's steering column. Western Electric also claimed that patent.
Michael Landis, the quick action switch was invented in 1864. If your claim is true then it took 66 years for human to add another contact point to the switch. Your uncle was truly a great inventor.
I had to clean out my back box and messed up the wiring on the two way. After using multiple images on Google, I found this video and fixed the issue in 5 mins. I owe you a Sunday 😂
🎉💪🏻
This has been one of the biggest question in my life, finally at 19 years old I know how this works
Dude ... yer only 19... you haven't even started out in life yet 🙄😂
only 19 amazing
I'm pretty sure I'll never have to install one of these, but once I started wondering how they worked it was bugging me not being able to figure it out, so thanks for letting me scratch that itch with such a clear explanation !
Most of my DIY wiring I’ve done at home is probably “intermittently live” 😜
_Probably?_
That is need to know information!
I had changed my carrier to becoming engineer. Your channel help me a lots. Thank you so much Paul.
Nice video
Thanks for the explanation. I remember me and my roomie trying to switch the light at once on both switches to see what would happen. Lol
i live in Germany and i had this mysterious 2 way light switch in my apartment's hall and never figured it out till watched your video... it was really driving me crazy.... Thank you.
My house in Germany used a relay at the light and multiple low voltage momentary switches to toggle the relay. The whole house was wired this way. All switches were low voltage. The stepdown (low voltage) transformer powering the relay's electromagnet can be located next to each relay or centralized for the entire house. Some relays are integrated with their transformer. There are "many ways to remove the skin from a catfish."
What is flower part
These are the simple things that my tired brain struggles with.
Thank you Paul, just your down my ceiling today and bought two switches and 3 core cable. Will do it tomorrow.
In the U.S. this circuit is called a three way switch because of the three terminals, the common and the two travelers.
in my country is called - head staircase/stairway circuit because it is used at the opposite sides of a stairway.
@@orange11squares how about on a long corridor then ? Switched at both ends .
it's called the same no matter how you choose to use it..... if you place another switch called head cross you can control the light from 3 areas.
In my country we call this light switch.
@@orange11squares "Comutator cap scara"-ROMANIA :)
Thanks!
i have been doing electrical (as a hobby) for 30 years...i used to break out books to do some stuff....your video was WAY BETTER then any book....i really appreciate your videos Paul
Glad to hear, Corey. Thanks
You're a good explainer. I like the way you showed how to, step by step, connect each wireoh, and how each wire reacts depending on how the switch flipped. Thanks so much. You did such a good job that even I could understand what you were saying and showing.
The first demo is the simplest and cheaper 👍👍👍
Only works in a trunking/conduit system. Household wiring uses 3 core cable. Regardless of how you do it (junction box, loop in lamps, loop in switches) it requires 3 core cable between the switches. So it's all the same, just the preference of the installer/ limitations of the installation.
Side note there is such an invention as pear shape cable which could make it possible in a house but that's very very very rare and I don't know if you could even buy it now and long story short it wouldn't be cheaper.
Great video, helped me out lots. I now know what the red sleeves were on my light switch wires when I looked inside the switch to try and install a smart switch. They were intermittently live but with red bands instead of brown. Thank you!
I love your channel and you guys are way smarter than me. Having said that, I am an electrician and the switches in this video are known to me as 3 way switches. I am sure the content is solid and maybe they are called 2 way switches in other countries. If so , I humbly apologize. I enjoy your content and wish I could explain it all so well.
Please watch our video in "3 way switches" for North American terminology.
"Intermittently Live," that's a good band name 😉
Thanks so much for this, I always wondered how these worked - I can't believe how relatively simple is!
Thank you and God bless you. You resolved my long standing issue.
"We need to place a brown sleeve at each end of this comment to warn that this is intermittently live."
Just used my upstairs hallway light which has two switches. Wondered how it worked and couldn't figure it out, within 20 minutes found myself here. It one of those things which is easy to understand once you know how it works but is otherwise hard to figure out. Knew it would be something simple. Great video, especially how you showed the direction of the current
Wow, this has kept me up. The mystery is over. Now I would like to know how those lamps are wired with the center light and the three around it and how the switch turns on one light then two lights then third light with the grand finally of all of them including the one in the center. Good luck. 🥳
Now you got the answer sir
Thanks - fool proof - managed to mend a 2-way circuit thanks to your video.
Are you an electrical engineering?
Very helpful - a big thank-you. The only thing I don't understand is why you'd use the 4 more complex versions of the connection in place of the "basic" version.
EDIT: I answered my own question: it depends on the position of the live and the load - in the basic case the live comes into one switch while the load is connected to ther other switch. In other cases, the live and load might both come into one switch, hence the variations.
I love your videos, I have some basic understanding of electrics but your videos give total clarity
Thank you, this one solved my IoT DIY project to turn off my bedroom lamp without removing the conventional switch.
It's satisfying to get an idea of how the wiring works (I didn't even know there were several different ways of installing the circuit) but I think I'll still leave it to an electrician, thanks all the same. Here in the UK any electrical work now needs to be carried out by a qualified person anyway. Additionally it's important to have this paperwork when selling your house as you it may be required.
Just starting out as an electrician and your videos are very very helpful. I'm not sure I understand the difference between the 1 way switch with 3 terminals and a 3 way switch. If it has 3 terminals, why would it be considered a 1 way? And why can't you wire it the same as a 3 way?
A 1-way looks very similar to a 2-way (3-way in US) because they are manufactured the same, only the L2 terminal is missing. You can use a 2-way as a 1-way by just using the common and L1.
Your videos are just incredible! One of life’s mysteries solved. Thank you!
I N T E R M I T T E N L Y L I V E
Intermittently dead. Glass half empty. LOL
I am only alive sometimes
BroWn sLeEve
i was wondering abt that...what does that mean?
@@rgudduu it's to avoid someone thinking that the neutral cable is permanently neutral when in fact there are times it could logically act as the live
I’m an electrician…and this video was awesome! I am aware of how it works, but I have a feeling I will from now on recall this video whenever I install threeways…
I've always wondered how this works, thank you.
I was able to practice all the versions successfully and I must say all of them makes supply available to them switches in case you need to loop a feed or live for fan
T H A N K Y O U, sooo much, I did light switching before lockdown so I was really confused if I should bridge my common and you just showed me the are many ways to kill a cat.
I’m constructing a conduit circuit and yes I’m permitted since am a student at an engineering center, please make more .
Goodluck
Thanks for the video. Very clear. From Cyprus
I had this question for years!
Yare yare daze
This video is accurate as an electrician myself I can indeed verify this.❤
Firs version is the easiest one all the others are over complicating something simple... UK way of course lol
Yeah I don't see the logic also of the rest versions, why would complicate anybody and use even more wires.. The first one is the right one..
@@andraszabi The first example is where you are installing the switches both at the same time so you plan to have the wiring going supply->switch1->switch2->bulb all in order.
The other examples are for when you start with just one switch in the circuit: supply->switch1->bulb and want to add another switch without changing which switch the bulb is wired into.
@@peepiepo ohh u r right I wasn't thinking to that.. But anyway u have to do the wiring BTW the switches.. so it's easyer to disconnect the wire from sw1, and send it to the sw2 commune, and add the 2communications wire also..
@@peepiepo it still doesn't make sense, if you start with one normal switch , It should be a normal switch, not a three-way switch, isn't it?
@@andraszabi I suppose he's making the point that in two of the examples, the switches are both in equality, and in the other two examples they are not in equality. Which way you choose would depend on which you were most comfortable using, and maybe one of the four ways might be best for an unusual situation?
Thank you for this! Just installed a 3-way switch in my basement using V3 and it works like a charm!
On the four variants, V1 through V4, you named it "convert one-way switches to two-way switches,"-but the switches used are functionally equivalent to the ones used in the first configuration (2:15).
You say at 2:55 to check if they have three terminals. If you can use them in a functionally equivalent manner to a two-way switch (3 terminals, Com, L1, L2, switch alternates between connecting Com-L1 and Com-L2), how are they any different than a two-way switch? And why could one not just simply arrange their 3-terminal one-way switch in the same configuration of the first example (2:15), which is simpler? (Instead of using V1, . . ., V4.)
Thanks, I see. So I guess it means more _convert your installation_ than _convert your switch_ (as I was thinking). As in _"convert your lamp installation from single-switch to long-corridor double-switch mode. (And you may already have a three-terminal switch in your single-switch installation, so you can reuse that.)"_
However, regarding V1 . . . V4 being extensions: As they are wired, V1 . . . V4 won't work as a one-way switch by _only_ removing the second switch. That happens because both pertinent wires are connected to L1 and L2, and the switch cannot be made to connect L1-L2. True, with a trivial modification (disconnecting one of the wires from L1/L2 and connecting it to Com) you can make it work as a single one-way switch installation should. However, it is worth noting that in the case of the first configuration (2:15), you may _also_ remove any one of the two switches, and with a trivial modification (permanently joining formerly Com-L1 wires of the removed switch) you can make the installation single switch again. Which of course is also true if do it in reverse (that is, adding the second switch, instead of removing it), and therefore variant 2:15 can be added "as an extension" just as much as V1 . . . V4.
Regarding the first point, it is also worth noting that, not only 2:15, but also all configurations in V1 . . . V4 must have current going through _both_ switches when turned on-which is evident in the fact that in all four configurations V1 . . . V4, the current must go from L1 to L2 in the first switch for the circuit to be closed, and the switch cannot connect L1-L2: all the arriving paths on L2 come ultimately from the second switch.
Thus, given that, in order to add a second switch in configurations V1 . . . V4 you need to do a terminal reassignment, and that the same applies to the first configuration, none of the five variants is really any _more_ of an "extension" option than the others-all can be applied to an existing installation, even the first one, 2:15. (Although it is true that V1 . . . V4 surely do _look_ like something someone would come up with, if they were trying to modify an existing installation, and the simpler 2:15 looks more as something to be come up with when designing from scratch.)
fsmoura while you are at it;
another thing to point out, if we differentiate L1 and L2 (wich in reality does not matter because they are the same) but not wires by Color (Color does not change the cable properties)
then v3 and v4 are the fucking same (except brown and black cable colours switched!)
However if we now say L1 and L2 are the same thing then
It all collapses and v1 thru 4 are all the same
And yes that defeats the sense of staying close to reality where there is different labeling l1 and l2
(Further notice, please be consistent (bullet no. 11 ;-) )
and use the brown sleeves and the word intermittently correct,
because in v1 and v4 the wire directly connected to live is NOT intermittently rather PERMANENT live therefore should be brown as in v2&v3)
V1-V4 appear to be all identical. Question remains, why use the "convert" configuration? I thought maybe it was to save a wire nut that would otherwise required on a conversion, but that still seems to be required because you can't put two wires under one screw. That is to say, once you've run 3 wires between the two switches you have effectively put both switches in the same box so you can actually wire them in anyway you like.
none of those configurations are ever used. They also stopped making switches with 2 contacts, it's all with 3 now. He also forgot to name the advanced hotel switching system where you can also install sockets without running a cable with 6 wires.
Yes thank you! It was making me wonder if I was crazy, seeing all these “hey thanks for the perfect video bro” comments.
How to control a light *with 3 or more switches* ➡️ ua-cam.com/video/jYFVsUqY6zc/v-deo.html
I like version 3 and 4. Easier to remember the wiring.
This is one of the most helpful information videos ive ever seen. Thankyou very much
Are there any benefits for 2nd 3rd and 4 th versions of wiring over 1st one.
No
Excellent. Concise. Perfect. What’s up from the Sates🤙🏽
Seems the first version is the most practical, since it would only need two wires between the two switches, and uses the least conductors.
It all depends on the situation you have. If it is easier to run the switch leg to one switch, and you already have power at that switch, then running a 3-wire between the two switches would make sense. Some of the situations you find yourself in in some houses can be very challenging, especially when 20 foot ceilings are involved and large openings where support beams are required can make running electrical hard.
I'm with you on that, you'd only need a twin and earth and use the live and neutral, why our friend is going on to say you need a 3-wire is beyond me and I'm lost however I'm a chippy and no sparky 🤔🤷♂️
@@adamprice9214 B/c if your switch leg going to the light and your power is in the same switch box and you do not have either in the other switch box, you have to use the 3rd wire to return the switched leg back. A 3 way switch requires 3 wires.
You also cannot mix neutrals between different circuits with the newer arc-fault breakers.
So to do it your way would require either the switch leg and power in each box, or the same circuit in each switch box.
Seen our new incredibly detailed MCB video? link: ua-cam.com/video/gqEu9t8HwW0/v-deo.html
This video deserves million likes
This is cool. Keep doing your great work!!!
Well put together. I have a construction business in cambodia and trying to explain UK electrical to them was a nitemare this makes it very easy for them to understand thx you
Thanks, I can finally die in peace
RIP
Old is gold. I'm back watching it again
If your life already complicated enough, just stop at 2:53
MotivAsik Creative Line what are you confused about I will try and break it down
As a kid, you tend to believe everything adults tell you :( Asked my dad how is this switching possible? He told me he hired some guy to stand by the switch at the other room. I Ran and went to the other room, and I went "No one here dad" He goes" he's over here now, if you run really fast, you just might catch him!" Got back to the other my dad went " Oh, damn, you just missed him" 😡 😠
To my Dad: (may he R.I.P.) I hate you now 😀 😁 😂hahaha.. Love u Dad! ❤️ Tell Mom I said hi❤️
In my country, people say "He who doesn't have it in his head, has it in his legs" (If you're not thinking, if you're forgetting, you're absent-minded, ignorant or just not that smart, you tend to go back and forth more often where you could have done it in one run or no run at all). 😉
Lol you weren’t the brightest of kids huh
Thanks. Figured out why my lights weren't working properly. Prior owners had a 3-way switch on one end and a 2-way switch on the other. Your video made it easy for me to figure out what was wrong. I went out and bought 2 new 3-way switches and it is working fine now.
Nice explanation.
Those type of circuits probably won't play much of a role in the future, though.
You could use wireless systems with only one switch, possibly included in the device (like a smart lamp) that cuts the electrical circuit when a wireless signal is received.
That allows to add many light switches without any cables what so ever or even turn on the light with over devices like smartphones, voice control.
You could, but it is far less reliant, especially since cyber security isn't anywhere near the top of the list for "smart" lamps.
This video just saved weeks of confusion in our kitchen renovation! Thank you!!!!
Just yesterday was figuring out, how to connect it and bump, today got this video...wish my money problems were solved quickly like this)
Does this work in Minecraft? lmao
Yes 😂
Yes
2 levers feeding into observers feeding into a t-flipflop, or just 2 buttons to a t-flipflop
Don’t actually know what this means?
@@andydunn5673 a t-flipflop is a circuit that switches between on and off whenever it receives a pulse
I avoided this my whole life lmao just made it seem so simple thank u
This must be telepathy.....; I was pondering this just yesterday and then it pops up in my recommended.
Unless UA-cam can read my mind....!
BEST EXPLANATION I'VE SEEN
I like the one where alexa does it for me.
If only they had videos like this in school! THANK YOU!
Just for the record: unless there's a complete circuit, NO current can flow anywhere!
yep that visualisation is annoying me too
He just meant untill where the wire is live.
Just a reminder, if you can't visualize where the current is coming from the diagram, don't even try of doing this. For your own safety.
@@MeMolson I don't think this is meant to teach anybody how to wire a staircase switch. But just to inform curious people who'd like to know how this works.
@@camper1749 I would have ended that with "If you can't figure out how UA-cam works, don't bother commenting." :D
when i put new light switches in my hall and landing this was a great help
The 1st way is the simplest, and uses the least amount of wire. After all, what is gained from the extra complicity?
some one please answer this
1st way is the simplest for the case of 2 switches per lamp. For 3 or more switches it doesn't work.
The first way is great if you are using single core cables; in England this would usually be in conduit, seldom now used in houses. The other ways, which are virtually all the same, can be done with two core and earth cables and three core and earth cables; this is how it's usually done in houses here as it's simple to install and easily adaptable to the house layout.
The 1st one was built from the beginning to be a two way switch, so it was very simple to create.
The others are conversions, and conversions are never as good as the real thing. Either you accept that it is not as good as the 1st, or you rip it all out and start from scratch.
koneth21 right, just add 4 ways in between for ever how many switches you may need
you take care our lives,Really thank you.
Hi. Thank you for this! Is there a difference between 2-way and 3-way switch? I always get confused.
No, just called a three way in the US, you know the US likes to be different.
The UK has 1 and 2 way and intermediate switches. But we can have like 1 gang, 2 gang, 3 gang etc. which is basically stating the amount of actually ‘switches’ the switch has
No, there is not
Am gonna watch its everyday how it works in practical way. Thanks.
You know what? I think I’ve got another idea on what to do with that BROWN SLEEVE! Lol
thank you.from marrakech morocco
5:12 here you've made perpetum mobile.
The best explained video I have ever seen on UA-cam. Perfect, keep up the good work. Thanks.
Explained concisely. Great video.👍👍😊
1:57 why are you drawing them like that? Why not just draw it straight from one terminal to the other?
it represents going back into the wall and out again
@@elena6516 I guess so. Thank you
@@enzoperruccio no problem. if you look at how he illustrates the entire wiring, you can imagine a ceiling at the top and a wall parallel and in the same plane as your monitor screen (and 90 degrees to the ceiling), and he's doing his best to not only explain in theory the wiring but also as literal a visual diagram as he can
Yoooooo I just figured this out on my own. I'm so smart.
At about 3 minutes 15 seconds you start to explain how to convert one way to two way (version 1). The explanation starts with the light wired up to live and neutral but without any switch at all. So the explanation is actually how to convert no way (an unusual scenario) to two way. It would be a better explanation if you started from a diagram showing it wired through a switch (one way) and then how that is modified by wiring in a second switch (two way). I do find this stuff confusing!
…and here I was thinking I was the only one to notice that. :) After the line to the bulb was cut he showed a fresh install rather than a conversion.
Thank you. I need to dumb down a 2 way switch to a single switch and I now can see what I need to do to accomplish this.
Why not just link L1 to L1 & L2 to L2?
Because someone decided that this would be less confusing for the end user.
Remember that on a single switch light, the standard is flipping the toggle up is ON and flipping the toggle down is OFF. So by cross wiring a double switch it makes it most similar to a single switch.
If you wired it your way, L1 to L1 and L2 to L2, then the light would be ON if both toggle switches were ON or both toggle switches are OFF.
If you cross the wiring, L1 to L2 and L2 to L1, then the light will be ON if one of the switches is ON and the other is OFF. If both switches are ON or both switches are OFF then the light will be OFF.
Like I said, someone thought that the cross wired way will be less confusing and made it the standard.
@@diabolusfornacis8234 that's because it's much less confusing that way
Makes no difference at all, can be wired either way
Putting 4 wires on a 3 wire switch is not less confusing. Line in to C, L1 to L1, L2 to L2, other C to load. That's simple.
When I was in college, we were taught L1 to L1, L2 to L2. For the Ln & Lo you could connected in the C’s or alternatively Ln to L1 & Lo to L2. Depending on your wiring configuration. Seams simpler to me but that’s what I’m used to 🤷♂️
Brilliant......, the alternate ways you can have 2 bulbs on both ends..... perfect for my application, thanks a bunch.
Now make a 10 way switch
Easy to do with the 1st version. But then you would need a 4 terminal switch called a cross switch. Cut the wires between L1 and L2. You now have 4 wires. And (hurray) a cross switch has 4 terminals.. Ypu can extend this a million times if you like.
Or just attach a dual edge monostable to every switch, OR all the outputs together and run that into a T flipflop
1024 And attach that to a relay. And add an ESP32 for IoT.
@@GRBtutorials yep and then add some RGB and maybe hook that up to a 10-way switch... wait
To make a ten way you have to do the 1st and the last a three way and the rest a four way switches as simple as that