Valvoline Restore and Protect for the win. I am usually skeptical of products that make big claims, but I'm a big believer in the Valvoline oil after using it myself and seeing the results.
After that first flush, that engine was purring like a kitten. Diesel fuel will not harm a motor as everything including the gaskets and rubber o-rings is designed to be in contact with petroleum products. I'd have no problem using this method. That engine was neglected, it is about time someone showed it some love.
I suppose the fact that he only idles the engine makes it okay. Driving under heavy load with diesel might be a different story. It is bold to be putting diesel into a customer's engine, but this man knows what he is doing.
Good job and great video. So many “ keyboard mechanics” aren’t keeping in mind that this was a DONE motor. Your efforts are helping to give this thing a fighting chance.
I have brought motors back from the dead with multiple flushes. I have fixed stuck lifters and stuck rings. The engine has gone from being caked with deposits to being able to see the metal with just a thin film of brown. For the oil flush naysayers, I have seen dramatic results on multiple high mileage and very neglected cars. When it gets to a certain point, I remove the pan and valve covers to physically clean whatever I can access. Running a little bit of ATF or diesel in the crankcase oil keeps cleaning as you drive the car.
this dude needs to learn how to properly maintain his car. its only the most important thing you can have in your life if you live anywhere, providing you dont live next to a grocery store, your job, a hospital or a strip club in the same block.
Valvoline restore & protect is supposed to be the only oil that also cleans sludge, in the add says it needs 4 oil changes to clean it 100% so 4 oil services. Some people reported it worked so well that it clogged the oil filter so if u put this oil u will need to change the oil filter more often.
@@tardeliesmagic valvoline restore&protect it's engine oil that happens to have some extra cleaning properties, so u should change it as if it were regular oil, 12 months or 10k miles whichever comes first, this is most common guideline but some people will tweak it, bottom line change it using same guidelines u were using with previous oil services.
@@MarianA-vu8tb Thanks for the reply. There's none for sale in England on amazon but ebay yes....but £30 postage as it comes from the US at a price of around £42.
I have the same car with the same engine and my wife uses it, so she forgot to remind me of the oil change for about 20k km the recommended oil is 20W-50 so sludge were everywhere, the car started smoking like a chimney. I did an oil change with seafoam two times and changed the valve covers as it have channels inside it where the sludge accumulates and change the pcv with all the hoses related to the valve cover, the engine was restored successfully as brand new after few oil changes with short intervals
I have flushed my engines. Only bought used cars and the first thing is a flush with diesel only. 15 minutes and then new filter and oil. The old sailors did this all around the world back in the days. And then used it as fuel.
Hey man, F the haters. I've been doing the same flushing technique for years. You're not revving the engine. You're not driving the car. It's fine. Do these folks not realize that things like "motor medic" is just kerosene? Lastly, Diesel is MUCH less aggressive than something like B12 Chemtool in the crankcase. (I am a fan of B12 though). Love the content. Keep it up.
The engine internals are getting cleaner and cleaner, would be cool to continue this series until it’s all metallic inside. Would be interesting to see if SeaFoam would work too? And test other brands 🤔
@IntegraDIY would be interesting to continue. Maybe one day I'll get an actual donor vehicle I can drive and easily remove the valve cover. Something will come up in the future though, I'll think of something. Also, seafoam doesn't work well with flushing. I'll find some way of testing in the future. Depending on how this video performs, I'll do an update video with an additional flush in the future, maybe just try a seafoam flush before diesel. I'll talk to the owner about this. Thing is, you'll have folks saying the seafoam was the foundation for diesel success when the diesel work!
I know from engine rebuilding that nothing is gonna get that off but hand work and elbow grease. Once that sludge has thickness the outer layer just protects the under layers. The bearings will be eat plum out of that motor before you ever get all the way through that pudding
That guy doesn't deserve a car. He still came back late, once again ignoring the purpose of maintaining the vehicle. Must be nice having money to waste dealing with costly repairs that could have easily been avoided. You need to leave that guy alone. Doesn't even know how to fill his oil to the capacity when needed. Let him take it the stealership.
Right before you change the oil again, try some Berryman's B12 Chemtool as a flush? It's an aggressive solvent like acentone, and I've had great luck with it. It stopped a lifter tick in a 280K 2004 Yukon 5.3 V8, and after I flush my 2006 4.2 I6 Atlas/Vortec Trailblazer the oil stays clean for 3,000 miles. Even the oil in my 2.9 Deere Powertech diesel remains clean for 10-12 hours of hard use at full throttle. Basically, start the engine cold, and slowly pour in a $5 pint of Chemtool and let it idle for 30 minutes without driving it or putting it under any load. Immediately drain the oil, it'll stink and be full of carbon and varnish. The crankcase will be perfectly clean.
Try using the Valvoline Restore & Protect which will clean the rings as well as the rest of the engine. This oil can be used as daily oil not just flushing. You will probably see a bigger difference over time than just using the diesel.
Most old school mechanics use red transmission fluid to clean the oils, transmission fluid is mostly cleaners but still have some friction mobilizer to keep a film on the running parts
@@bigdaddymak1439 What??? ATF is packed full of detergents. The diesel & ATF mixture used on part 1 is very good at cleaning. Diesel is used by many mechanics to wash and degrease parts.
Oh good. Or bad… I was wondering if cleaning actually made things worse. How could sludge hero seal things… So now what? It sounds like it needs rings.
@victorcenac1247 "it sounds like it need rings" yes, if it's consuming oil that's typically what resolves oil consumption. Could be a pcv valve, I'll have to check next time I service this. Changing the viscosity also could've resolved the oil usage. I don't know till I get it back. The purpose of the video is explained in the video
I would use valvaline restore oil before desiel fuel. That is what it's designed for too restore stuck rings just change the filter after some miles and look inside
Sad the engine was so neglected. Great job doing best you can managing a bad situation. Like you said, the damage has been done. Seems with sludge particles coming off with diesel and trans fluid, that filter media would clog quickly and remaining fluid bypasses filter after that? Maybe should just change oil every 500 miles until engine is clean?
If the rings are stuck, why not pull spark plugs and soak cylinders with diesel or atf? Or even soak with marvel mystery oil? Assuming cost or time was not an issue.
Do you want your engine to have eternal life of the top cylinder? add one ounce of quality two stroke oil for each 5 gallons of gasoline in the tank. This will reduce friction in the top cylinder as well as seal the valves better and protect your tank and fuel lines and injectors.
Try some Berrymans B12 down the cylinders to try and free up the rings. It is also one helluvan engine flush. So after it has leaked down, run it up to temp and see all the crap come out.
Some of my old youtube lives I've talked bodybuilding, but I don't like to overly complicate things to the best of my ability. Bodybuilding wasn't/isnt that complicated for the most part. Just alot of overtraining, eating and waiting lol.
u just evaporating the diesel with engine heat which in turn makes the fumes go trough the crank vent and into the engine intake, thats why its fuming and trimming, better not let it get so hot next time.
Great video! Amazon (and probably others) sells a "flexible funnel" that is sheet of plastic with some metal molded into it. The idea being you can bend it to fit places a regular funnel won't work. I use it to direct oil. Works much better yhan cardboard. I think the 3.5 engine in the Maxima we had is similar to the Infinity here. I used to always make a mess when changing the filter. That flexi funnel works great.
I recommend using Marvel Mystery Oil for engine flushes, transmission flushes, and even fuel system cleaners. Add to every oil change for you do the oil change and then supplement what is suggested on the bottle to the crankcase. 💯👍
sir, I suggest to soak it with acetone to the top of engine oil filler cap for 10 minutes and drain out. and let see what sludge come out from oil pan drainages
I'd sure be interested to see some motor oil lab analysis of the sludge, followed by the flush, followed by the first oil change, etc., to see if there is any damage being done during the flush process or as a result of it, and whether that damage is worse than the damage being done by the sludgy old oil. That might quiet down some of the guys claiming you are harming the engine, risking destroying bearings, etc. And, to those guys I would also ask, "okay, how would you address this problem if a customer showed up with a car that had been neglected like that?" My instinct would be to come up with a short waiver for customers to sign if they want me to try flushing their engines to try to deal with their neglect.
I have 0 experience whatsoever flushing engines, especially with diesel but to the extend I would have to do it, I would not run the engine. I would fill up the engine with diesel, let it sit for a day or two, drain it all out. Take the oil pan off, and run diesel over and over again letting it all fall out etc. then id run it wit with some 0w-20 oil a couple of time, put the oil pan back on and run with 0w-20 for a bit, flush, put correct oil. I don't know if that would do anything, running with diesel even though it can act as a lubricant would fear me to screw the engine up more than it is already is, but if your experience with it is normal then this is an interesting video.
If we were a wise society, a guy could make a good living selling subscriptions for mobile oil service every six months, on a schedule. Show up, change it with top quality full synthetic and a top quality filter, for $100 or so each time. People's cars would last so much longer and have fewer major issues with the engine. But instead of paying $200 each year for that, people pay $2000 every other year to deal with the damage old dirty oil did to their timing chains, valve train, VVT systems, etc. Not to mention that every month you can drive a car after paying it off is like getting a raise equal to your car payment. Heck, even the insurance is cheaper for an old car.
Smartest thing that customer could do at this point is to sell or trade off that car and buy one with good service history. No way that engine will last all that much longer.
1. I suspect lots of these fancy engine flush liquids, you can buy, mainly contains diesel or kerosene. 2. Curse on those low friction rings! To lower fuel consumption one or two percent, they ruin the engine. 3. Maybe give the owner a canister of oil, and instruct him or her to check and refill, at every gas stop?
Yeah as long as you're not under any kind of load that diesel will not hurt that engine at all. I thought that was a good idea putting ATF in it. As far as the oil consumption you might try that Valvoline restore and protect. Valvoline restore and protect 5W30 has slowed my oil consumption down on my 14 GMC 6.2L. Thanks for the great video.
@jglassman1122 oil gets introduced during rotation of the engine through the piston rings. The rings aren't seated properly due to a couple of reasons. One is worn or stuck piston oil rings, which is supposed to keep oil from bypassing and being introduced into the combustion process, but it do. Two, the cylinder walls are worn, glazed and loss it's cross hatches preventing poison rings to seat properly. Others can be valve seals or not in my case, pcv or excessive blowby. There can be a partial combination of all of the above, with the rings being mostly the culprit. But typically, the pistons and rings are the issue most of all cases I've dealt with. I do have a video with an engine with excessive blowby, causing oil consumption accompanied with a misfire, I'll post link below, in this case the car would've thrown misfire code but in video above, the consumption is gradual, so much so it doesn't interfere or threaten the proper combustion process
Direct injection injectors are almost as noisy as common rail diesel injectors. 😅 I have a diesel and the first thing you hear with the hood open and the covers off is the injectors ticking away. Going from factory spec 0w20 to 5w30 is a good idea on an engine that's already been hurt and that is starting to burn oil. Most people adhere to factory viscosity like their life depended on it but oil viscosity is a spectrum and you have to make an educated guess on what is really the best for the specific engine in front of you. Ofc dumping 10w40 truck diesel oil in a 0w20 engine is counterproductive but I think 5w30 given the history and condition of this engine is better then 0w20.
Every 3-4 oil changes, I put in a half quart of tranny fluid in before the change. A good 15-20 miles 'tune up' and change oil/filter. Dipstick on 2008 highlander 3.3L is so clean I can hardly read it. Putting diesel fuel in a crankcase? Never.
I did leave a comment on your first video and I did see a response after seeing this one with the oil consumption strongly suggest changing valve covers it works the one I had did was done 28,000 miles ago been changing the oil every 4,000 miles it no longer has any oil consumption issues I believe I got them from 1A Auto for around $125 bucks well worth it they come with a new PCV valve already in it the PCV valve on the old one was not clogged it was working fine it was just sucking oil through because of the baffles as I said earlier
@tooththrhr by your logic diesel injector seals, crank seal or any oil seals on diesel should fail all day everyday, due to contamination from diesel. This doesn't happen. Diesel doesn't damage valve seals which are made of same materials of engine seals in general. To add... what you think the diesel filter seal is made of? Rubber... those don't degraded rapidly as you'd imagine now do it?
@partsshooter I was not aware of the compatibility between diesel and rubber. I wish I knew about it before I used a commercially available engine flush and ruined my top end
if it's a diesel engine, i wouldn't risk putting diesel in the engine. i'd be affraid the engine would run away and blow itself up. but i this case, a gas engine , and just idling seems just fine.
its almost like you want to run the diesel through the engine without running the engine, and youre going to give yourself carpal tunnel with that oil filter. i think theres wear and tear running cam lobes on a heavy solvent or detergent. want to soak everything, steam clean the walls, and pump the oil at high speed.
had a guy ask me to look at his motorcycle that had engine noises, I check the oil and it was pure slug. I asked when was the last time you changed oil? He told me a story of how for years he didn't change the oil in his truck then one day did and the motor let go shortly after, said he'll never change oil in anything again... these are types people do exist. The thinking that says don't flush your motor with diesel is the same primitive thinking just the other side of the coin. Sad thing was he just bought a 5.4 triton think it will last as long as his 5.3 ls motor that he didn't change the oil on for 5 years
Any flush does remove a certain amount of residual… the deeper in layers the oil sludge goes.. the more caked it is due to heat so it will be hard to restore back to factory 😂😂😂😂😂
@@partsshooter Well... did this to a GM 3.8L... it developed a lower end knock a week later and then it died.... was told I hydro locked the engine....and bent something.
@darickymeister hydrolock isn't dedicated to overfilling oil by 1 gallon, takes more in larger displacement engines before this consider occurring. Hydrolock can occur from blown head gasket, ingesting water through intake or victim of circumstance. Too many variables to dedicate your case to what MAY happen in mine. Our abilities, vehicles and situations are totally situations. Never ever same. I like your story though
If the engine is, as you say, terminally close to being scrap and you have the owners agreement to try this, I'm failing to see what problems the "knockers" in the comments have. If I was doing something like this with the owners full knowledge and agreement as in try anything to see if you can do something to remedy the engine, well, off you go and best of luck.
Shit you know how many rattling pathfinders My old boss got from the auction and had me do a flush with diesel and refill and drive for a couple weeks change the oil again and put out for sale purring like a kitten never had one let go or come back either the earlier v6 pathfinders would clog the chain tensioner oil galley and rattle to beat hell and eventually throw the chain do this once a year and the rest of the damn truck would rust away from the still running drivetrain
shouldn't flush engines with diesel. Results in knocking in a lot of cases. Also causes a lot of damage to clutches. Reason I know is in the ate mudding community people do it to flush water out of engines. Can send you some pictures if you want. Huge L that you did this to a customers car. If they knew better they'd be pissed.
@willoblenes2002 how about you do your own video of the results disproving mine. Again, until then yall have no substance, that jeep community isn't the brightest
@willoblenes2002 in not giving you my contact, yall folks on the internet weird, take it how you want. I offered to watch what content you make. Do your own video and I'll watch. Until then, pictures don't prove anything over the 2 videos I provided. Out evidence me... that's what you can do.
Engine flushes like this should only be done as an absolute last resort. In terms of atvs. Many develop a bottom end knock shortly after doing this. When we pull clutches we find corrosion and destroyed clutches. If I was your customer you'd be pulling my motor splitting and rebuilding it. You clearly don't know the effect of what doing this does. Someone just told you same way you learned it and now because it's your way it's the right way. ✅️ anyone with 5 brain cells can figure out its a bad idea to put fuel where engine oil goes. Engines with wet clutches will be even worse.
@willoblenes2002 I have 5 brain cells and you're ranting to me, me .. who have 5 brain cells. Why are you trying to prove yourself to me? Right now, you're basically complaining to a pickle jar right now. I'm just gonna make your day by responding to you. You're welcome, sir/ma'am. All this talk about pickles has now made me hungry. I'll read more of your comments if you leave them, hit the dislike/like button before you leave. I'm going to go get pickles now...
IVE BEEN DOIN DIESEL FOR YEARS KIST LIKE YOU ARE DOIN. Zero issue with multiple trucks and cars. Na sayers don’t have any clue what thier talkin about….
Valvoline Restore and Protect for the win. I am usually skeptical of products that make big claims, but I'm a big believer in the Valvoline oil after using it myself and seeing the results.
If I was him, I would try what you are saying, that would be the best to see if it really works. He went through a lot of bore scoping too.
Worked on my used lexus rx330.i would use liquid moly to flush with. Car runs like new.
After that first flush, that engine was purring like a kitten. Diesel fuel will not harm a motor as everything including the gaskets and rubber o-rings is designed to be in contact with petroleum products. I'd have no problem using this method. That engine was neglected, it is about time someone showed it some love.
I suppose the fact that he only idles the engine makes it okay. Driving under heavy load with diesel might be a different story. It is bold to be putting diesel into a customer's engine, but this man knows what he is doing.
A piston soak with B12 Chemtool might free the rings up, at least reduce the consumption to something more reasonable.
Good job and great video. So many “ keyboard mechanics” aren’t keeping in mind that this was a DONE motor. Your efforts are helping to give this thing a fighting chance.
@@sat_sonic exactly
I have brought motors back from the dead with multiple flushes. I have fixed stuck lifters and stuck rings. The engine has gone from being caked with deposits to being able to see the metal with just a thin film of brown. For the oil flush naysayers, I have seen dramatic results on multiple high mileage and very neglected cars. When it gets to a certain point, I remove the pan and valve covers to physically clean whatever I can access. Running a little bit of ATF or diesel in the crankcase oil keeps cleaning as you drive the car.
Try using the Valvoline Restore and Protect oil, worked for me. the first 2 oil changes, go 1000 miles then change the filter.
How many miles would you then change the oil after using this Valvoline? I'm from the UK & we have it here but rarely available on ebay/amazon.
this dude needs to learn how to properly maintain his car. its only the most important thing you can have in your life if you live anywhere, providing you dont live next to a grocery store, your job, a hospital or a strip club in the same block.
Valvoline restore & protect is supposed to be the only oil that also cleans sludge, in the add says it needs 4 oil changes to clean it 100% so 4 oil services.
Some people reported it worked so well that it clogged the oil filter so if u put this oil u will need to change the oil filter more often.
How many miles would you then change the oil after using this Valvoline? I'm from the UK & we have it here but rarely available on ebay/amazon.
@@tardeliesmagic valvoline restore&protect it's engine oil that happens to have some extra cleaning properties, so u should change it as if it were regular oil, 12 months or 10k miles whichever comes first, this is most common guideline but some people will tweak it, bottom line change it using same guidelines u were using with previous oil services.
@@MarianA-vu8tb Thanks for the reply. There's none for sale in England on amazon but ebay yes....but £30 postage as it comes from the US at a price of around £42.
Valvoline Restore and Protect was especially formulated to remove "carbon" buildup. Of course, it also removes sludge like all modern oils.
4 OR more. It's overrated
I have the same car with the same engine and my wife uses it, so she forgot to remind me of the oil change for about 20k km the recommended oil is 20W-50 so sludge were everywhere, the car started smoking like a chimney. I did an oil change with seafoam two times and changed the valve covers as it have channels inside it where the sludge accumulates and change the pcv with all the hoses related to the valve cover, the engine was restored successfully as brand new after few oil changes with short intervals
Would be nice to see you try EPR treatment and see how it compares.
Thank you very much for a first class very detailed video. It must have taken an awful lot of your time to take and edit from start to finish.
@colinhall8998 wasn't bad... 2hrs of hands on and talking.
I have flushed my engines. Only bought used cars and the first thing is a flush with diesel only. 15 minutes and then new filter and oil. The old sailors did this all around the world back in the days. And then used it as fuel.
This has been done forever. Kerosene/heating oil too.
Got a suggestion...use diesel rated motor oil. Its got much much much more detergency in
Hey man, F the haters.
I've been doing the same flushing technique for years. You're not revving the engine. You're not driving the car. It's fine.
Do these folks not realize that things like "motor medic" is just kerosene?
Lastly, Diesel is MUCH less aggressive than something like B12 Chemtool in the crankcase. (I am a fan of B12 though).
Love the content. Keep it up.
You should have them put that new valveoline oil in there i think it would add to what you've already done
The engine internals are getting cleaner and cleaner, would be cool to continue this series until it’s all metallic inside. Would be interesting to see if SeaFoam would work too? And test other brands 🤔
@IntegraDIY would be interesting to continue. Maybe one day I'll get an actual donor vehicle I can drive and easily remove the valve cover. Something will come up in the future though, I'll think of something.
Also, seafoam doesn't work well with flushing. I'll find some way of testing in the future.
Depending on how this video performs, I'll do an update video with an additional flush in the future, maybe just try a seafoam flush before diesel. I'll talk to the owner about this.
Thing is, you'll have folks saying the seafoam was the foundation for diesel success when the diesel work!
Berryman B12 works better than Seafoam
I know from engine rebuilding that nothing is gonna get that off but hand work and elbow grease. Once that sludge has thickness the outer layer just protects the under layers. The bearings will be eat plum out of that motor before you ever get all the way through that pudding
That guy doesn't deserve a car. He still came back late, once again ignoring the purpose of maintaining the vehicle. Must be nice having money to waste dealing with costly repairs that could have easily been avoided. You need to leave that guy alone. Doesn't even know how to fill his oil to the capacity when needed. Let him take it the stealership.
dude probably spent it on w33d , jordanz, and a glock
Right before you change the oil again, try some Berryman's B12 Chemtool as a flush? It's an aggressive solvent like acentone, and I've had great luck with it. It stopped a lifter tick in a 280K 2004 Yukon 5.3 V8, and after I flush my 2006 4.2 I6 Atlas/Vortec Trailblazer the oil stays clean for 3,000 miles. Even the oil in my 2.9 Deere Powertech diesel remains clean for 10-12 hours of hard use at full throttle. Basically, start the engine cold, and slowly pour in a $5 pint of Chemtool and let it idle for 30 minutes without driving it or putting it under any load. Immediately drain the oil, it'll stink and be full of carbon and varnish. The crankcase will be perfectly clean.
Try using the Valvoline Restore & Protect which will clean the rings as well as the rest of the engine. This oil can be used as daily oil not just flushing. You will probably see a bigger difference over time than just using the diesel.
Most old school mechanics use red transmission fluid to clean the oils, transmission fluid is mostly cleaners but still have some friction mobilizer to keep a film on the running parts
Specifically Honda ATF☝🏽
ATF has very little detergents. Old school guys used it to break free rings because fluid doesn't compress.
It has friction "modifiers".
@@bigdaddymak1439 What??? ATF is packed full of detergents. The diesel & ATF mixture used on part 1 is very good at cleaning. Diesel is used by many mechanics to wash and degrease parts.
I agree... Valvoline Restore and Protect ! change oil every 2500 miles at least 3 times!
I know transmission oil isn't cheap these days , but the old boys used to swear by it as an engine flush .
Been nice to see base line oil pressures
did it develop the sever oil consumption after the diesel treatment?
@@victorcenac1247 no
Oh good. Or bad… I was wondering if cleaning actually made things worse. How could sludge hero seal things…
So now what? It sounds like it needs rings.
@victorcenac1247 "it sounds like it need rings" yes, if it's consuming oil that's typically what resolves oil consumption. Could be a pcv valve, I'll have to check next time I service this.
Changing the viscosity also could've resolved the oil usage. I don't know till I get it back.
The purpose of the video is explained in the video
I would use valvaline restore oil before desiel fuel. That is what it's designed for too restore stuck rings just change the filter after some miles and look inside
Great video man. Thanks for sharing with us!
F the haters in the comments.
@two6520 thanks man... it's cool I love all the comments. I actually enjoy reading
Sad the engine was so neglected. Great job doing best you can managing a bad situation. Like you said, the damage has been done. Seems with sludge particles coming off with diesel and trans fluid, that filter media would clog quickly and remaining fluid bypasses filter after that? Maybe should just change oil every 500 miles until engine is clean?
If the rings are stuck, why not pull spark plugs and soak cylinders with diesel or atf? Or even soak with marvel mystery oil? Assuming cost or time was not an issue.
Do you want your engine to have eternal life of the top cylinder?
add one ounce of quality two stroke oil for each 5 gallons of gasoline in the tank. This will reduce friction in the top cylinder as well as seal the valves better and protect your tank and fuel lines and injectors.
Man people would rather you put the diesel in a bottle add a little coloring and say it's engine flush 😂😂😂
@@jonathanhughes7759 basically! Marketing work wonders on the mind
Try some Berrymans B12 down the cylinders to try and free up the rings. It is also one helluvan engine flush. So after it has leaked down, run it up to temp and see all the crap come out.
Great video you are a good man for saving this engine
The flush filter should be dirtier because the sludge broke loose from the engine parts.. That is what you want!
Hey man thanks for the content. Very helpful. Dude ur a body builder would u do content on training as well
Some of my old youtube lives I've talked bodybuilding, but I don't like to overly complicate things to the best of my ability. Bodybuilding wasn't/isnt that complicated for the most part. Just alot of overtraining, eating and waiting lol.
@partsshooter ahhh true. Dude awesome content on the automotive side awesome
u just evaporating the diesel with engine heat which in turn makes the fumes go trough the crank vent and into the engine intake, thats why its fuming and trimming, better not let it get so hot next time.
I did this but only ran it for like 30secs and changed everything, it was just to liquify the sludge
I would propose to use one quart of Valvoline Restore and Protect. Top up with the cheap O’Reilly’s oil. Change the filter often.
@@PCMenten does that valvoline clean faster than diesel in within one hour?
Good efforts trying to resurrect a vehicle that’s been severely neglected by its owner. Points for persistence.
Great video!
Amazon (and probably others) sells a "flexible funnel" that is sheet of plastic with some metal molded into it. The idea being you can bend it to fit places a regular funnel won't work. I use it to direct oil. Works much better yhan cardboard. I think the 3.5 engine in the Maxima we had is similar to the Infinity here. I used to always make a mess when changing the filter. That flexi funnel works great.
Next time boro the spark plug hole to see if there is heavy carbon buildup
@lyfethusfar275 will do next video.
Couldn't you use something like 0w-16 instead ?
@7.3_Powerstroke the minium viscosity is 0w20. No...
I'm curious, why should I go down in weight? What's your logic?
@partsshooter they make 0w-16 now and the point would just be for a flush, not to actually run it as a daily driver.
I recommend using Marvel Mystery Oil for engine flushes, transmission flushes, and even fuel system cleaners. Add to every oil change for you do the oil change and then supplement what is suggested on the bottle to the crankcase. 💯👍
sir, I suggest to soak it with acetone to the top of engine oil filler cap for 10 minutes and drain out. and let see what sludge come out from oil pan drainages
I'd sure be interested to see some motor oil lab analysis of the sludge, followed by the flush, followed by the first oil change, etc., to see if there is any damage being done during the flush process or as a result of it, and whether that damage is worse than the damage being done by the sludgy old oil. That might quiet down some of the guys claiming you are harming the engine, risking destroying bearings, etc. And, to those guys I would also ask, "okay, how would you address this problem if a customer showed up with a car that had been neglected like that?" My instinct would be to come up with a short waiver for customers to sign if they want me to try flushing their engines to try to deal with their neglect.
I have 0 experience whatsoever flushing engines, especially with diesel but to the extend I would have to do it, I would not run the engine. I would fill up the engine with diesel, let it sit for a day or two, drain it all out. Take the oil pan off, and run diesel over and over again letting it all fall out etc. then id run it wit with some 0w-20 oil a couple of time, put the oil pan back on and run with 0w-20 for a bit, flush, put correct oil. I don't know if that would do anything, running with diesel even though it can act as a lubricant would fear me to screw the engine up more than it is already is, but if your experience with it is normal then this is an interesting video.
Should be using 0w-30
If we were a wise society, a guy could make a good living selling subscriptions for mobile oil service every six months, on a schedule. Show up, change it with top quality full synthetic and a top quality filter, for $100 or so each time. People's cars would last so much longer and have fewer major issues with the engine. But instead of paying $200 each year for that, people pay $2000 every other year to deal with the damage old dirty oil did to their timing chains, valve train, VVT systems, etc. Not to mention that every month you can drive a car after paying it off is like getting a raise equal to your car payment. Heck, even the insurance is cheaper for an old car.
It's called a maintenance plan
Smartest thing that customer could do at this point is to sell or trade off that car and buy one with good service history. No way that engine will last all that much longer.
1. I suspect lots of these fancy engine flush liquids, you can buy, mainly contains diesel or kerosene.
2. Curse on those low friction rings! To lower fuel consumption one or two percent, they ruin the engine.
3. Maybe give the owner a canister of oil, and instruct him or her to check and refill, at every gas stop?
Yeah as long as you're not under any kind of load that diesel will not hurt that engine at all. I thought that was a good idea putting ATF in it. As far as the oil consumption you might try that Valvoline restore and protect. Valvoline restore and protect 5W30 has slowed my oil consumption down on my 14 GMC 6.2L. Thanks for the great video.
not under any load ??? ... every time the cylinder fires , there is around 300 tons of presssure on the bearings !!! ... so no load then !
@@mikeford5106 The engine is under a light load idling. After your response i wish i would have said nothing at all.
Use 10w-30
I know some mechanics use kersone (sorry for wrong spelling) to clean sludge
You're fine... I can grasp your context outside the spelling
@partsshooter thank you
Where do you think the oil is going? I would think if it was burning the oil it would throw codes
@jglassman1122 oil gets introduced during rotation of the engine through the piston rings. The rings aren't seated properly due to a couple of reasons. One is worn or stuck piston oil rings, which is supposed to keep oil from bypassing and being introduced into the combustion process, but it do.
Two, the cylinder walls are worn, glazed and loss it's cross hatches preventing poison rings to seat properly.
Others can be valve seals or not in my case, pcv or excessive blowby. There can be a partial combination of all of the above, with the rings being mostly the culprit.
But typically, the pistons and rings are the issue most of all cases I've dealt with. I do have a video with an engine with excessive blowby, causing oil consumption accompanied with a misfire, I'll post link below, in this case the car would've thrown misfire code but in video above, the consumption is gradual, so much so it doesn't interfere or threaten the proper combustion process
@@jglassman1122
ua-cam.com/video/aEI8EGvu32E/v-deo.html
Direct injection injectors are almost as noisy as common rail diesel injectors. 😅
I have a diesel and the first thing you hear with the hood open and the covers off is the injectors ticking away.
Going from factory spec 0w20 to 5w30 is a good idea on an engine that's already been hurt and that is starting to burn oil.
Most people adhere to factory viscosity like their life depended on it but oil viscosity is a spectrum and you have to make an educated guess on what is really the best for the specific engine in front of you.
Ofc dumping 10w40 truck diesel oil in a 0w20 engine is counterproductive but I think 5w30 given the history and condition of this engine is better then 0w20.
@@alouisschafer7212 we are definitely on the same page here
Every 3-4 oil changes, I put in a half quart of tranny fluid in before the change. A good 15-20 miles 'tune up' and change oil/filter. Dipstick on 2008 highlander 3.3L is so clean I can hardly read it. Putting diesel fuel in a crankcase? Never.
I did leave a comment on your first video and I did see a response after seeing this one with the oil consumption strongly suggest changing valve covers it works the one I had did was done 28,000 miles ago been changing the oil every 4,000 miles it no longer has any oil consumption issues I believe I got them from 1A Auto for around $125 bucks well worth it they come with a new PCV valve already in it the PCV valve on the old one was not clogged it was working fine it was just sucking oil through because of the baffles as I said earlier
Consider using Valvoline Restore and Protect.
Id be worried about the valve seals because , I did a flush once and it hardened the valve seals so bad. I was consuming oil at 1qt 300 miles
@tooththrhr by your logic diesel injector seals, crank seal or any oil seals on diesel should fail all day everyday, due to contamination from diesel. This doesn't happen. Diesel doesn't damage valve seals which are made of same materials of engine seals in general. To add... what you think the diesel filter seal is made of? Rubber... those don't degraded rapidly as you'd imagine now do it?
@partsshooter I was not aware of the compatibility between diesel and rubber. I wish I knew about it before I used a commercially available engine flush and ruined my top end
Try some Marvel mystery oil?
Let that bad boy soak for a few days and report back
@@brett639 good idea...
if it's a diesel engine, i wouldn't risk putting diesel in the engine. i'd be affraid the engine would run away and blow itself up. but i this case, a gas engine , and just idling seems just fine.
Well, I guess this is why you do your oil changes
Good job
Think you would be better off taking the pan off and cleaning tgat gunk off from below as it won't clean it self of,the top of the engine look good.
@@I2383R I explain this in video
The dirt left after flush is carbon
It won't come of with petroleum products
It's pr9bly beneficial
It's the ticking that is annoying not the sound from the fuel pump
With that much sludge , it's probably an intake valve leaking oil.
You must, I say it🤣 loudly, drop the oil pan🤷🏿♂️ otherwise it’s going to take a lot of coming back.
We voted on it...The oil pan stays sir🤠🤠😤😤😤
Ok but remnants of the entire deal will just sit at the bottom of the pan🤷🏿♂️ and be sucked up by clean oil.
its almost like you want to run the diesel through the engine without running the engine, and youre going to give yourself carpal tunnel with that oil filter.
i think theres wear and tear running cam lobes on a heavy solvent or detergent. want to soak everything, steam clean the walls, and pump the oil at high speed.
@dangerdavefreestyle sir.... I train my wrist everyday at preferred times, no way I'm heading that direction getting carpal tunnel 🤣🤣🤣
Sup Shooter! Good sir!!
I missed round 2 😂😂😂😂😂
had a guy ask me to look at his motorcycle that had engine noises, I check the oil and it was pure slug. I asked when was the last time you changed oil? He told me a story of how for years he didn't change the oil in his truck then one day did and the motor let go shortly after, said he'll never change oil in anything again... these are types people do exist. The thinking that says don't flush your motor with diesel is the same primitive thinking just the other side of the coin. Sad thing was he just bought a 5.4 triton think it will last as long as his 5.3 ls motor that he didn't change the oil on for 5 years
Any flush does remove a certain amount of residual… the deeper in layers the oil sludge goes.. the more caked it is due to heat so it will be hard to restore back to factory 😂😂😂😂😂
Has this engine died an expensive death yet?
@darickymeister if it haven't died from the 1st video, why now?
@@partsshooter Well... did this to a GM 3.8L... it developed a lower end knock a week later and then it died.... was told I hydro locked the engine....and bent something.
@darickymeister hydrolock isn't dedicated to overfilling oil by 1 gallon, takes more in larger displacement engines before this consider occurring.
Hydrolock can occur from blown head gasket, ingesting water through intake or victim of circumstance. Too many variables to dedicate your case to what MAY happen in mine. Our abilities, vehicles and situations are totally situations. Never ever same.
I like your story though
@@partsshooter I can only go by what I was told what would happen... and it happened...that's it...
I would use a heavier oil imho or Lucas
HEY MISTAH DONT CALL IT LUCAS!!CALL IT MUCUS CAUSE IT GUMS UP EVERYTHING AND MAKES IT WORSE!!
This is SOOOO back yard.
Do NOT listen to this channel.
We should fire that guy!
If the engine is, as you say, terminally close to being scrap and you have the owners agreement to try this, I'm failing to see what problems the "knockers" in the comments have. If I was doing something like this with the owners full knowledge and agreement as in try anything to see if you can do something to remedy the engine, well, off you go and best of luck.
Nothing wrong with this "back yard" ... In Balkans we do the same and it works. Carry on 💪
Nun wrong wit dat
Shit you know how many rattling pathfinders My old boss got from the auction and had me do a flush with diesel and refill and drive for a couple weeks change the oil again and put out for sale purring like a kitten never had one let go or come back either the earlier v6 pathfinders would clog the chain tensioner oil galley and rattle to beat hell and eventually throw the chain do this once a year and the rest of the damn truck would rust away from the still running drivetrain
shouldn't flush engines with diesel. Results in knocking in a lot of cases. Also causes a lot of damage to clutches. Reason I know is in the ate mudding community people do it to flush water out of engines. Can send you some pictures if you want. Huge L that you did this to a customers car.
If they knew better they'd be pissed.
@willoblenes2002 how about you do your own video of the results disproving mine. Again, until then yall have no substance, that jeep community isn't the brightest
@@partsshooter I offered to show you pictures disproving it. Now you are coming at me sideways. What a terrible attitude.
@willoblenes2002 in not giving you my contact, yall folks on the internet weird, take it how you want. I offered to watch what content you make. Do your own video and I'll watch. Until then, pictures don't prove anything over the 2 videos I provided.
Out evidence me... that's what you can do.
Engine flushes like this should only be done as an absolute last resort. In terms of atvs. Many develop a bottom end knock shortly after doing this. When we pull clutches we find corrosion and destroyed clutches. If I was your customer you'd be pulling my motor splitting and rebuilding it. You clearly don't know the effect of what doing this does. Someone just told you same way you learned it and now because it's your way it's the right way. ✅️ anyone with 5 brain cells can figure out its a bad idea to put fuel where engine oil goes. Engines with wet clutches will be even worse.
@willoblenes2002 I have 5 brain cells and you're ranting to me, me
.. who have 5 brain cells. Why are you trying to prove yourself to me?
Right now, you're basically complaining to a pickle jar right now.
I'm just gonna make your day by responding to you. You're welcome, sir/ma'am.
All this talk about pickles has now made me hungry. I'll read more of your comments if you leave them, hit the dislike/like button before you leave. I'm going to go get pickles now...
IVE BEEN DOIN DIESEL FOR YEARS KIST LIKE YOU ARE DOIN. Zero issue with multiple trucks and cars. Na sayers don’t have any clue what thier talkin about….
Before the first flush, it's best to remove the oil pan and clean the pan and pickup tube screen. Will make the flush easier and less risky.