Hey Guys! Great job - please pass our feedback to MUSA!! I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet 充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe they can read that hear
Hello Henry! Good for you! I didn't even enquire with Stirlingkit about the lateness as I understood they were Getting it Right, Well worth the wait for us Hit & Miss lovers
Yes there are chapters on this vid in case you just want to see it running. But if you want to follow thru the tips in the build that might be helpful...anyway, I love this engine and I think its a serious achievement for MUSA. I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet 充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe they can read that here. Comments, questions?
While I remember...details matter! the MUSA pulse igniter electronics are encapsulated in resin "like a proper engine", the first I have seen on a Chinese desktop engine. Love the detail of a glass-ended horizontal brass fuel tank. Function drip oiler...use of steel in high wear places...chamfering and colouring of the wooden base... :))
Hey Dave! While I am happy with any engine that I can tweak up there is no doubt that this has been intelligently and painstakingly designed and with respecting the traditions of hit & miss engines. The engineering and construction materials and tolerances... I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet 充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe MUSA can read that here
Mine finally arrived after a bit of a wait due to end of the year!! I am stoked with this! I had no problems assembling this and everything fitted together so well. It fired right up no problem. The quality of the kit is really very good. I am wondering though how you keep the rod big end bearing well lubricated? I am adding some engine oil to both sides of the rod bearing by applying the oil between it and the crank lobes whenever the engine is stopped. There does not seem to be any better way of doing this? Other than that, the engine has no issue receiving oil and it runs really nice.
Yep that's exactly what I do re lubing big end. Seems fine to do that way on all these models, though the run time can be 2 hours with the right tweaks so I'd do every half hour. I'm so glad to hear your experience has been positive all though. Well done! a KEEPER :)
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks for confirming that. Glad to hear that works fine. Yes it has been a great experience so far. I have mounted everything properly - ignition box, battery and added a toggle on the back of the battery box. Wired everything under the engine in a similar way you did and it looks very clean. Now I will play with the governor spring and look at changing the push rod spring to make it run a lot slower.
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES I shortened the spring a little from the factory one for a faster return and it was trial and error from there on the fuel settings. I've been tinkering with the L6-210 trying to get the ignition situated. It runs OK, but the timing perimeters are a little off. I think I have the MUSA HM-01 tweaked where I like it for now. I may try the tweak you did with the cam follower.
Thats a very nice made engine. Where do you order it from? Pictures i see has different oil cap on the piston place. But maybe its from different places ??
I have added the ordering page in the description. Both Stirlingkit .com and Enginediy .com sell this and will support and help you. Look for their discounts
Great video!....Please keep us posted if you find a way to slow it down even more? Can you convince Steam 212 to have a go at working his magic on HM-01?
I'm in two minds about slowing it down more, I'll have a look for a weaker spring. It needed to run in before I tried that anyway...Mr 212's videos have become a little less common lately...yeah I'd love to see what Matt would come up with too. He's pretty amazing
Some of the guys on tiny engine forum noticed above average "gear whine" from the HM-01 on the factory first fire up....yours seems sugnificantly more quiet as far as gear whine. Ideas guys have had to slow it down: -polish gear teeth with toothpaste, its an old slot-car trick, most toothpaste contains Very Fine abrasive, you put the toothpaste on dry gears and it stays on like grease, your run the engine for an hour or 2 and rinse away the toothpaste with warm water, then aply your favorite gear lube, this method is hard to "over-do" as the abrasive in toothpaste is so fine. -someone said a slightly softer intake valve spring may help engine coast longer? - I have successfully made a softer governor spring with a Very Weak rubber band, most are to strong or wrong size...i got the weakest i could find and cut it to make a single strand! I tied a loop at each end like this O-----------O Then try different lengths to see how slow you can get, when you find the slowest it will run, feel the strength of that rubber band and try to match it with a hand wound guitar string spring. Just some idea's, maybe one will spark your own experiments?
In my experience getting the valve lift within detent coast is the trick to longer coast. Then, yes, a weaker spring. He he, we all have different ideas...I used old teflon grease on the cogs. They whine because they're meshing really well. It would be a major hassle toothbrushing those gear teeth right? Messy....even if you don't use a brush just toothpaste & run it. Those gears are brass they will quiet down@@benjaminkroes9785
The other engines needed tightening up the con rod ends, changing springs, the original silver M90 needed bronze bushing and the useless needle bearings cast back into the hell from whence they came. So that's a few runs. M90 I ran every day for a month!@@benjaminkroes9785
Hi Thomas :) Great video! And thanks!! I just got my engine. I didn't have to drill out the guide for the valve rod, but I did have to de-burr it. I have my engine assembled ready to go but before I do, can you tell me what kind of oil your using in the cylinder oiler to lubricate the cylinder? I used sewing machine oil during it's assembly as many of my other models require, but from what I'm seeing here, that might be too light for running it. With sewing machine oil, I do get some blow back past the piston just turning it over, and the intake valve seems to barely open. Thank-you. :)
Stirling engines need low friction but have low operating pressures. I use WD40. But for IC engines I used to use synthetic car oil or I now think 30SAE Small Engine Oil is probably perfect as I hear. The tolerances are not great so thicker oil works.
Thanks again for answering my previous question, and for all the tips you posted in your videos featuring this engine. I did the mods you suggested and ran it for the first time today...and WOW!!!! She ran perfectly right away no further mods needed!!! Thank-you again! I took some quick videos and will post them on my channel in a day or so. @PCGuruENGINES
Thomas, Hope this finds you a happy man. With all these great videos, how could you being anything else. Thomas, I have a very specific question please. Is there a video or written explanation on finding TDC on these engines?
Hi again Jerry, What a sweet sentiment. Yeah, with a smart successful wife, two great kids, three cats, two chickens, and one dead goldfish, I am a happy man. TDC is easy because the crank is level all the way in, but you're asking how to get the ignition as close to TDC as possible or just after, which is what you want to do. That's not easy. You have two brass leaf contacts 4:38 that press together just as the valve rod goes right, into the cam, all the way, (also releasing and therefore closing the exhaust valve all the way) allowing ignition. The left leaf conact is covered in black plastic heatshirk sheathing except for the contact point halfway down. You need this conact point moved a bit. My result is here ua-cam.com/video/qYpkNPi3itc/v-deo.htmlsi=yO18J9mk2P8HqIkH&t=354 I should tidy the top plastic where the pliers greipped it...notice slight bend? Clean the contacts if they're oily. Take out the spark plug and tape it to the engine metal so it sparks when you rotate the engine. Note the piston is all the way in and conrod level at tdc by eye, or you can feel it with a toothpick in the sparkplug hole. Turn on ignition. Rotate slowly, where's that spark? For best running at slow speed it needs to be delayed to or after tdc. The leftmost ignition leaf contact touches the right one in the middle. So, solution is to bend it so that the middle strikes the right one slightly later, altough the top is being pushed by the valve rod at the same place. So, instead of going up straight, the left leaf contact needs to bend very slightly to the left (delaying contact), then back to the right as it reaches to top where it's pushed by the rod. Turn off ignition. Get your pliers and bend the left contact leaf leftwards away from the right one 5-10 degrees at the bottom. Then firmly grab the leaf with end of your pliers halfway down the leaf, push the nose of the pliers left while angling the top of the leaf rightward, a twist. You're trying to put a bend in it. You want the top where it was and the middle a millimeter or two left of where it was. Turn on ignition and check your progress. If you get no spark you've put too much bend in the leaf and they're not contacting. Rinse and repeat It's a fiddly task but a must-do one
Hello Thomas, hope you are well sir, Quick question please. Would you happen to know if there is actually a new hit and miss coming out. It is supposedly by Retol, VM 01, vertical model, Thank you, Jerry
Hello Thomas, I have ordered and recieved the HM-01 engine. I bought the RTR version form Amazon it was missing the wooden frame and ignition set with spark plug. My question is are those items ordered separately or did they come with your RTR package? Thanks very much, Jon.
They are extras, John. I expect you are disappointed in the marketing of what you bought...I got mine from Enginediy dot com, the base frame, ignition set and box, and particularly fuel tank are outstanding and worth buying
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES thanks Thomas. I got mine running using zippo lighter fluid with just a few drops of marvel mystery oil. I'm still waiting on my wood base and fuel tank. I absolutely love the engine so far. I've got mine running nice and slow. Have a great day!!
Hello Thomas, Hope you doing well. I have enjoyed your UA-cam videos so much. Please keep up the super work sir. I ordered my Retro HM 01 today. Can you advise me on oils, grease, etc and where to utilize them? Thank you, Jerry
Oil is standard 30 SAE small engine oil from hardware store. Oil everything that moves. Grease is optional for the gears if you want less whine, but that will reduce in a few runs. For the valve stems, particularly the atmospheric intake valve, I use a drop of sewing machine oil as SAE30 can stiffen so it sticks this valve next time you run it. I use spray carburettor cleaner to wash oil drios from the ignition points under the latch parts, when the ignition gets oily
Hi. I'm in the UK and thinking of getting one. Could you please tell me what other parts are needed and if possible a link? Wooden frame and ignition module. Seems they are not included in the listing. Thanks!
Absolutely, this engine is made well enough to run. I've seen the Microcosm M90 run tracked rc vehicles and fans, generators and waterpumps, and that engine's construction is much softer.
Mmmmm...even the brass-built engines of these engines will last the expected lifetime of use of just a few hours. The original hit and miss, the microcosm M90 wore the badly fitting main roller bearings in 1-2 runs, then the big and small end bearings. But all those can be fixed, and I have run mine every day for two months and it no longer appears to wear. This engine is made from steel castings with fitting bearings and much better machining tolerances. Cylinder sleeve is stainless and won't rust from water. From what I've seen the only wear will be the detent lever pin riding in the mainshaft slot, and only then in unlubed or running for long period with the "CONTINUOUS" lever interrupting the detent process, because this means the slots pushes hard on the pin due to speed. So...I think this engine can last "forever". Theoretically the piston ring can wear out but in these engines, they run cool. I've never worn one out. First part to fail maybe ignition but again, this engine's ignition is properly encased in resin which healps oil & heat management and longevity. If original hit & miss engines can last 110 abusive years with their crap old metals tech, this can last forever
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks so much for such a wonderfully detailed reply to my question about engine longevity. This engine is going on my Christmas wish list since it is built to last.
Hello Thomas, hope you are doing well sir. I am getting a Retrol Steam Engine, the one that has a cylinder that I believe needs a drop or so of a specific type of oil. Can you help with what I should use? It’s the steam engine with the beam and cylinder and piston. Thanks. Jerry
Hey Jerry, welcome to the comments man! that engine will happily run with any oil but 30sae "small engine oil" may be the closest you can get to proper steam oil. Steam engine oil is very thick and goopy and needs heat to reach the right viscosity. Smells mighty fine too There are hobbyists supplying real steam oil, or visit your local full-size steam preservation joint with a pill bottle and beg. Seeing as they have it by the 44 gallon drum they'll probably be sympathetic, tell 'em I sent ya
Hello Thomas, hope you are doing well sir. I am getting a Retrol Steam Engine, the one that has a cylinder that I believe needs a drop or so of a specific type of oil. Can you help with what I should use? Model number is the Retrol HM 1
Hey Jerry, welcome to the comments man! that engine will happily run with any oil but 30sae "small engine oil" may be the closest you can get to proper steam oil. Steam engine oil is very thick and goopy and needs heat to reach the right viscosity. Smells mighty fine too There are hobbyists supplying real steam oil, or visit your local full-size steam preservation joint with a pill bottle and beg. Seeing as they have it by the 44 gallon drum they'll probably be sympathetic, tell 'em I sent ya
Rather pissed off that you get yours with the trolley while I'm still waiting for mine tbh. I found the oiler let's the oil through too quickly despite being at full adjustment. So need to find a way of modifying that
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Yes the trolley etc was part of the preorder and it included the electronic ignition . Everything except the trolley base fuel tank etc arrived in my shipment. Mine was disassembled so I assembled the engine. Had to shim the main cap bearings otherwise upon tightening it would lock up the crank. You might be interested to know the crank has proper conrod shells like a car engine etc. Those fitted ok. We're slightly stuff to begin with but freed up not long after
I am using 3 1.5v AA batteries. couldn't quite fit 4xAA but I just realized 4xAAA would be perfect and fit. 3x1.5v is too little really, others report 6v is great
Absolutely, particularly with the original governor spring. It's a healthy 6-7cc engine, although slow compared to nitro or two stroke. There are suitable dynamos available incl scale types
Hey man, let me know a bit more. Does it spark? Does the spark happen at or near TDC? Is compression good? If all those are good, is it getting fuel? The carb needle set at 1/2 turn out and begin trying, 3/4 turn etc. Prime first by holding your finder over the air intake of the carb to suck a good charge in.
Try ebay...but unusual to see used. Try a letter to Santa? ;) But seriously these are the premium Chinese hit & miss. Try a Microcosm on ebay after Christmas...MAY be 1/2 price? my 1.6cc M17 was $150 new. Before Xmas is NOT the time to look for a bargain
Nope...hit and miss engines were never made in China originally. Hit and Miss engines were a kind of primitive motor speed control that let it hit (fire) or miss (not firing if it was over speed) fascinating old tech
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES The 2mm bolts that hold on the standpipe do not fit. They slide in the holes without threading as normal. The holes in the cylinder head were drilled and tapped for a larger size. The problem is that I cannot find any socket head or any other kind of screw that fits. You would think a 2,5 would fit, but it does not and certainly a 3mm is way too large. I even tried USS and SAE in the 2 size, but they won't fit either. I have been to two hobby shops, one specialty bolt and nut shop and even Marshall's that has every bolt that was ever made and nothing fits. I have tried to tell the customer service person, Mona, what the problem is, but I cannot make her understand. She wants to send me more 2mm socket head screws that the plan calls for, but I already have some and they DON'T fit, they are too small. She should not be in customer service. What I Need is a different head that has been drilled and tapped for the 2mm socket head screw. I have been a machinist for 65 years and I think I know screw sizes and what fits and what does not. Now I have a half finished model on my kitchen table, a mad wife and I am so frustrated I cannot see straight. Talking to Mona is like talking to a rock. The only thing I can think of right now is to put the head in the mill and drill and tap it for a 3mm and be done with it. I should not have to do that with a $500 model. I cannot understand the tool that they used for the holes. Certainly they would drill and tap it for an existing screw, but the plans call for a 2mm. Mona does not understand that and I cannot explain it to her even on the most simple of terms.
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES The 2mm screws that hold on the standpipe to the head do not fit. They are too small and just pull out. I have tried 2.5 and 3mm, but they don't fit either. I have been to two hobby shops and one specialty shop that deals in nothing but bolts and nuts and they don't have a clue. I have been working with Mona at Sterling, but it is like talking to a rock. She wants to send me more 2mm screws and I have tried to explain to her that I already have some and they don't fit. I don't know what size the hole in the head were drilled and tapped for as NOTHING fits. I cannot make Mona understand that. I need a new head that has been machined for the correct size. I have been a machinist for 65 years and I think I understand screw sizes. I might just have to put the head in the mill and drill and tap the holes for 3mm, but I shoul not have to do that. Mona should not be in customer service. All I need is a new head that has been machined correctly.
Thanks for your reply and for letting me know your credentials, which helps. I m unable to give you any advice because you sound much more experienced than me in engineering. If this was your first experience with Stirlingkit it certainly sounds abnormal; also the experience with the engine. But to get this clear, your "standpipe" you mean the exhaust? Chimney? I have not heard "standpipe" before and if I haven't, Mona will have no chance. So, you can't attach your exhaust chimney? These engines always use standard metric M2, M2.5 etc and if the supplied screws don't fit, they may have had a tapping failure in your head. Re-tap. Good luck. Forgive Mona, she's doing her best
PART TWO simple tweaks, speed, INSTRUCTIONS ua-cam.com/video/qYpkNPi3itc/v-deo.html
THANKYOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!Your praise is the greatest affirmation of our work
Hey Guys! Great job - please pass our feedback to MUSA!! I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet
充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe they can read that hear
My HM-01 Kit arrived yesterday and I can't wait to open it and put it together. Yours looks great and I think they were worth the wait!
Hello Henry! Good for you! I didn't even enquire with Stirlingkit about the lateness as I understood they were Getting it Right, Well worth the wait for us Hit & Miss lovers
Yes there are chapters on this vid in case you just want to see it running. But if you want to follow thru the tips in the build that might be helpful...anyway, I love this engine and I think its a serious achievement for MUSA. I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet
充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe they can read that here.
Comments, questions?
While I remember...details matter! the MUSA pulse igniter electronics are encapsulated in resin "like a proper engine", the first I have seen on a Chinese desktop engine. Love the detail of a glass-ended horizontal brass fuel tank. Function drip oiler...use of steel in high wear places...chamfering and colouring of the wooden base... :))
yes. thank you. this time we make many details on the engines. hope the people who receive can feel the improvement we have made
I'm busy making instructions. Sorry, I'll send you one later.
Kind of you! Well done for your support!
Great video, great engine. I've never heard you so happy about an engine.
Hey Dave! While I am happy with any engine that I can tweak up there is no doubt that this has been intelligently and painstakingly designed and with respecting the traditions of hit & miss engines. The engineering and construction materials and tolerances... I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet
充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe MUSA can read that here
I just ordered one of these with all the accessories. Great video
Amazing machine. Greetings from the Netherlands.😊
Hallo! Hoe gaat het?
Bedankt voor je begroeting in het opmerkingengedeelte!
Mine finally arrived after a bit of a wait due to end of the year!! I am stoked with this! I had no problems assembling this and everything fitted together so well. It fired right up no problem. The quality of the kit is really very good. I am wondering though how you keep the rod big end bearing well lubricated? I am adding some engine oil to both sides of the rod bearing by applying the oil between it and the crank lobes whenever the engine is stopped. There does not seem to be any better way of doing this? Other than that, the engine has no issue receiving oil and it runs really nice.
Yep that's exactly what I do re lubing big end. Seems fine to do that way on all these models, though the run time can be 2 hours with the right tweaks so I'd do every half hour.
I'm so glad to hear your experience has been positive all though. Well done! a KEEPER :)
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks for confirming that. Glad to hear that works fine. Yes it has been a great experience so far. I have mounted everything properly - ignition box, battery and added a toggle on the back of the battery box.
Wired everything under the engine in a similar way you did and it looks very clean. Now I will play with the governor spring and look at changing the push rod spring to make it run a lot slower.
The thing holding the flywheel on is called a "Taper lock" and is a very common part even today.
Glad you know what I was referring to. I should have been an engineer instead of a PCGuru! Thanks for the info!
Outstanding little engine, run's beautifully, Great Job
Thanks for stopping by and commenting Daniel! Are you considering getting one?
Good Day Sir no I will have to make due with my enjimor, I have her running beautifully , Take Care@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES
I purchased the kit version MUSA HM-01 #23190. It runs great.
iI bet you enjoyed wrangling it together. Any mods or tips?
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES I shortened the spring a little from the factory one for a faster return and it was trial and error from there on the fuel settings. I've been tinkering with the L6-210 trying to get the ignition situated. It runs OK, but the timing perimeters are a little off. I think I have the MUSA HM-01 tweaked where I like it for now. I may try the tweak you did with the cam follower.
The ignition is fiddly. That leaf spring needs to be bent just right for as close to TDC firing as possible...my opinion!
Thats a very nice made engine. Where do you order it from? Pictures i see has different oil cap on the piston place. But maybe its from different places ??
I have added the ordering page in the description. Both Stirlingkit .com and Enginediy .com sell this and will support and help you. Look for their discounts
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES thanks for reply. Just ordered it. Looking forward to it. Good videos you make.
No problem. Best wishes and all success to you!!@@morten1975dk
Great Video. Thank you
Thx for the feedback and glad you enjoyed it!
Great video!....Please keep us posted if you find a way to slow it down even more?
Can you convince Steam 212 to have a go at working his magic on HM-01?
I'm in two minds about slowing it down more, I'll have a look for a weaker spring. It needed to run in before I tried that anyway...Mr 212's videos have become a little less common lately...yeah I'd love to see what Matt would come up with too. He's pretty amazing
How long did you run in your other china made engines before you felt they where properly run in?
Some of the guys on tiny engine forum noticed above average "gear whine" from the HM-01 on the factory first fire up....yours seems sugnificantly more quiet as far as gear whine.
Ideas guys have had to slow it down:
-polish gear teeth with toothpaste, its an old slot-car trick, most toothpaste contains Very Fine abrasive, you put the toothpaste on dry gears and it stays on like grease, your run the engine for an hour or 2 and rinse away the toothpaste with warm water, then aply your favorite gear lube, this method is hard to "over-do" as the abrasive in toothpaste is so fine.
-someone said a slightly softer intake valve spring may help engine coast longer?
- I have successfully made a softer governor spring with a Very Weak rubber band, most are to strong or wrong size...i got the weakest i could find and cut it to make a single strand! I tied a loop at each end like this O-----------O
Then try different lengths to see how slow you can get, when you find the slowest it will run, feel the strength of that rubber band and try to match it with a hand wound guitar string spring.
Just some idea's, maybe one will spark your own experiments?
In my experience getting the valve lift within detent coast is the trick to longer coast. Then, yes, a weaker spring.
He he, we all have different ideas...I used old teflon grease on the cogs. They whine because they're meshing really well. It would be a major hassle toothbrushing those gear teeth right? Messy....even if you don't use a brush just toothpaste & run it.
Those gears are brass they will quiet down@@benjaminkroes9785
The other engines needed tightening up the con rod ends, changing springs, the original silver M90 needed bronze bushing and the useless needle bearings cast back into the hell from whence they came. So that's a few runs. M90 I ran every day for a month!@@benjaminkroes9785
质量 well done MUSA
😄 thx
Wow. Beautiful engine. Nice job
👍
Hi Thomas :)
Great video! And thanks!! I just got my engine. I didn't have to drill out the guide for the valve rod, but I did have to de-burr it. I have my engine assembled ready to go but before I do, can you tell me what kind of oil your using in the cylinder oiler to lubricate the cylinder? I used sewing machine oil during it's assembly as many of my other models require, but from what I'm seeing here, that might be too light for running it. With sewing machine oil, I do get some blow back past the piston just turning it over, and the intake valve seems to barely open. Thank-you. :)
Stirling engines need low friction but have low operating pressures. I use WD40. But for IC engines I used to use synthetic car oil or I now think 30SAE Small Engine Oil is probably perfect as I hear. The tolerances are not great so thicker oil works.
Than-you so much :) That's what I'll use.
Upon deeper inspection. I found most of the loss of compression was at the spark plug. @@ThomasPCGuruENGINES
Thanks again for answering my previous question, and for all the tips you posted in your videos featuring this engine.
I did the mods you suggested and ran it for the first time today...and WOW!!!! She ran perfectly right away no further mods needed!!! Thank-you again! I took some quick videos and will post them on my channel in a day or so. @PCGuruENGINES
Superb. I look forward to watching
This one has some actual quality attached to it. Load test it let's see what it can do.
I'm really surrprised under reasonable load the hit and miss tightens up and it pulls hard. However I will not be optimising it for continuous running
Thomas, Hope this finds you a happy man. With all these great videos, how could you being anything else. Thomas, I have a very specific question please. Is there a video or written explanation on finding TDC on these engines?
Hi again Jerry, What a sweet sentiment. Yeah, with a smart successful wife, two great kids, three cats, two chickens, and one dead goldfish, I am a happy man.
TDC is easy because the crank is level all the way in, but you're asking how to get the ignition as close to TDC as possible or just after, which is what you want to do. That's not easy. You have two brass leaf contacts 4:38 that press together just as the valve rod goes right, into the cam, all the way, (also releasing and therefore closing the exhaust valve all the way) allowing ignition. The left leaf conact is covered in black plastic heatshirk sheathing except for the contact point halfway down. You need this conact point moved a bit. My result is here ua-cam.com/video/qYpkNPi3itc/v-deo.htmlsi=yO18J9mk2P8HqIkH&t=354 I should tidy the top plastic where the pliers greipped it...notice slight bend?
Clean the contacts if they're oily.
Take out the spark plug and tape it to the engine metal so it sparks when you rotate the engine. Note the piston is all the way in and conrod level at tdc by eye, or you can feel it with a toothpick in the sparkplug hole. Turn on ignition.
Rotate slowly, where's that spark? For best running at slow speed it needs to be delayed to or after tdc. The leftmost ignition leaf contact touches the right one in the middle. So, solution is to bend it so that the middle strikes the right one slightly later, altough the top is being pushed by the valve rod at the same place.
So, instead of going up straight, the left leaf contact needs to bend very slightly to the left (delaying contact), then back to the right as it reaches to top where it's pushed by the rod. Turn off ignition.
Get your pliers and bend the left contact leaf leftwards away from the right one 5-10 degrees at the bottom. Then firmly grab the leaf with end of your pliers halfway down the leaf, push the nose of the pliers left while angling the top of the leaf rightward, a twist. You're trying to put a bend in it.
You want the top where it was and the middle a millimeter or two left of where it was.
Turn on ignition and check your progress. If you get no spark you've put too much bend in the leaf and they're not contacting. Rinse and repeat
It's a fiddly task but a must-do one
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Hi Thomas, I could not remember if I thanked you the detail on TDC you sent. MUCH appreciated. Thank you so much!!!!!
Happy to give my opinion!
Hello Thomas, hope you are well sir,
Quick question please. Would you happen to know if there is actually a new hit and miss coming out. It is supposedly by Retol, VM 01, vertical model,
Thank you,
Jerry
"Soon" they tell me at Stirlingkit. I'll get it
Hello Thomas, I have ordered and recieved the HM-01 engine. I bought the RTR version form Amazon it was missing the wooden frame and ignition set with spark plug. My question is are those items ordered separately or did they come with your RTR package? Thanks very much, Jon.
They are extras, John. I expect you are disappointed in the marketing of what you bought...I got mine from Enginediy dot com, the base frame, ignition set and box, and particularly fuel tank are outstanding and worth buying
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks, yep the RTR part was quite misleading. Nice engine though.
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Hello Thomas, I was curious what fuel you are using and the oil used and the mix ratio. Thanks so much, Jon
Just saw this Jon. The engine is not fussy. This could use low oil ratio but I run about 1to 25 to 1 to 40
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES thanks Thomas. I got mine running using zippo lighter fluid with just a few drops of marvel mystery oil. I'm still waiting on my wood base and fuel tank. I absolutely love the engine so far. I've got mine running nice and slow. Have a great day!!
Good!!!!!Very nice!!
Thanks for popping by and commenting!
Hello Thomas, Hope you doing well. I have enjoyed your UA-cam videos so much. Please keep up the super work sir. I ordered my Retro HM 01 today. Can you advise me on oils, grease, etc and where to utilize them? Thank you, Jerry
Oil is standard 30 SAE small engine oil from hardware store. Oil everything that moves. Grease is optional for the gears if you want less whine, but that will reduce in a few runs. For the valve stems, particularly the atmospheric intake valve, I use a drop of sewing machine oil as SAE30 can stiffen so it sticks this valve next time you run it. I use spray carburettor cleaner to wash oil drios from the ignition points under the latch parts, when the ignition gets oily
Hi. I'm in the UK and thinking of getting one. Could you please tell me what other parts are needed and if possible a link? Wooden frame and ignition module. Seems they are not included in the listing. Thanks!
I cant link from comments. Sorry late reply...enginediy website and stirlingkit. Yes get the kits, no extra parts needed
Great review - so you think you could run anything off of it?
Absolutely, this engine is made well enough to run. I've seen the Microcosm M90 run tracked rc vehicles and fans, generators and waterpumps, and that engine's construction is much softer.
How did you tighten the spark plug. The space around mine was too small for a socket. Thanks in advance.
Try a smaller socket set, I mean, a set, of...smaller sockets. Also ask enginediy or stirlingkit they sell 'em
How would you rate the longevity of this engine? And, not including batteries, what would likely be the first part to fail? Thank you.
Mmmmm...even the brass-built engines of these engines will last the expected lifetime of use of just a few hours.
The original hit and miss, the microcosm M90 wore the badly fitting main roller bearings in 1-2 runs, then the big and small end bearings. But all those can be fixed, and I have run mine every day for two months and it no longer appears to wear. This engine is made from steel castings with fitting bearings and much better machining tolerances. Cylinder sleeve is stainless and won't rust from water.
From what I've seen the only wear will be the detent lever pin riding in the mainshaft slot, and only then in unlubed or running for long period with the "CONTINUOUS" lever interrupting the detent process, because this means the slots pushes hard on the pin due to speed.
So...I think this engine can last "forever". Theoretically the piston ring can wear out but in these engines, they run cool. I've never worn one out.
First part to fail maybe ignition but again, this engine's ignition is properly encased in resin which healps oil & heat management and longevity. If original hit & miss engines can last 110 abusive years with their crap old metals tech, this can last forever
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks so much for such a wonderfully detailed reply to my question about engine longevity. This engine is going on my Christmas wish list since it is built to last.
My pleasure
Hello Thomas, hope you are doing well sir. I am getting a Retrol Steam Engine, the one that has a cylinder that I believe needs a drop or so of a specific type of oil. Can you help with what I should use?
It’s the steam engine with the beam and cylinder and piston. Thanks. Jerry
Hey Jerry, welcome to the comments man! that engine will happily run with any oil but 30sae "small engine oil" may be the closest you can get to proper steam oil. Steam engine oil is very thick and goopy and needs heat to reach the right viscosity. Smells mighty fine too
There are hobbyists supplying real steam oil, or visit your local full-size steam preservation joint with a pill bottle and beg. Seeing as they have it by the 44 gallon drum they'll probably be sympathetic, tell 'em I sent ya
Hello Thomas, hope you are doing well sir. I am getting a Retrol Steam Engine, the one that has a cylinder that I believe needs a drop or so of a specific type of oil. Can you help with what I should use?
Model number is the Retrol HM 1
Hey Jerry, welcome to the comments man! that engine will happily run with any oil but 30sae "small engine oil" may be the closest you can get to proper steam oil. Steam engine oil is very thick and goopy and needs heat to reach the right viscosity. Smells mighty fine too
There are hobbyists supplying real steam oil, or visit your local full-size steam preservation joint with a pill bottle and beg. Seeing as they have it by the 44 gallon drum they'll probably be sympathetic, tell 'em I sent ya
Rather pissed off that you get yours with the trolley while I'm still waiting for mine tbh. I found the oiler let's the oil through too quickly despite being at full adjustment. So need to find a way of modifying that
Mine did that at first but not now. You didn't get your trolley/base? You did buy it right?
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Yes the trolley etc was part of the preorder and it included the electronic ignition . Everything except the trolley base fuel tank etc arrived in my shipment. Mine was disassembled so I assembled the engine. Had to shim the main cap bearings otherwise upon tightening it would lock up the crank. You might be interested to know the crank has proper conrod shells like a car engine etc. Those fitted ok. We're slightly stuff to begin with but freed up not long after
The counter weight
on my new HM-01
looks different. Not
as heavy ?
I've heard this but haven't seen. May affect balance / shake I guess
Ive just recieved my kit and noticed that the cranks are completely round with parallel machined parts on them, different to yours.
Oh, like the Enjomor ones?
ua-cam.com/video/4MCVjw6Wyt4/v-deo.htmlsi=jHjEzJciuLKhJVe1&t=347
Hello, I was wondering what size battery you are using in that small box? Thank you.
I am using 3 1.5v AA batteries. couldn't quite fit 4xAA but I just realized 4xAAA would be perfect and fit. 3x1.5v is too little really, others report 6v is great
do they emit the power to drive a belt on an alternator of sorts?
Absolutely, particularly with the original governor spring. It's a healthy 6-7cc engine, although slow compared to nitro or two stroke. There are suitable dynamos available incl scale types
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES thank you so much for replying. I appreciate that.
My HM-01 has arrived just wondering if you ever use AAA bats for power as we don't seem to run any of the engines for long, less space required.
AAA will be fine as there is a good long time between sparks on this model!
Can't get my HM-01
started since new. 2
months HELP
Hey man, let me know a bit more. Does it spark? Does the spark happen at or near TDC? Is compression good? If all those are good, is it getting fuel? The carb needle set at 1/2 turn out and begin trying, 3/4 turn etc. Prime first by holding your finder over the air intake of the carb to suck a good charge in.
Are they still taking orders on these? And does anyone know the latest wait time?
Sure I think wait time zero as they have stock. stirlingkit or enginediy
Where can I buy a used one I can’t afford a new one
Try ebay...but unusual to see used. Try a letter to Santa? ;) But seriously these are the premium Chinese hit & miss. Try a Microcosm on ebay after Christmas...MAY be 1/2 price? my 1.6cc M17 was $150 new. Before Xmas is NOT the time to look for a bargain
Correct engineering term is "cam follower", just saying.
Thanks. Always ready to learn here!!
Can I have it?
"We'll see" is what my parents always used to say when I was young...
Is it just me thought they were called 'hit and miss' engines cos ya never knew if you were gonna get a goodun coming from China? 🤔😂
Nope...hit and miss engines were never made in China originally. Hit and Miss engines were a kind of primitive motor speed control that let it hit (fire) or miss (not firing if it was over speed) fascinating old tech
is that a kiwi accent i hear?
Mate! It sure is.
been thinking of buying a few of these in different types and styles, in just an hour south of the biggest south island city
If you have the money, you might find them fun.
DO NOT get this kit from Sterling Kits, their customer service is very bad. I mean really sucks.
Hey John. What was the problem with the engine??
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES The 2mm bolts that hold on the standpipe do not fit. They slide in the holes without threading as normal. The holes in the cylinder head were drilled and tapped for a larger size. The problem is that I cannot find any socket head or any other kind of screw that fits. You would think a 2,5 would fit, but it does not and certainly a 3mm is way too large. I even tried USS and SAE in the 2 size, but they won't fit either. I have been to two hobby shops, one specialty bolt and nut shop and even Marshall's that has every bolt that was ever made and nothing fits. I have tried to tell the customer service person, Mona, what the problem is, but I cannot make her understand. She wants to send me more 2mm socket head screws that the plan calls for, but I already have some and they DON'T fit, they are too small. She should not be in customer service. What I Need is a different head that has been drilled and tapped for the 2mm socket head screw. I have been a machinist for 65 years and I think I know screw sizes and what fits and what does not. Now I have a half finished model on my kitchen table, a mad wife and I am so frustrated I cannot see straight. Talking to Mona is like talking to a rock. The only thing I can think of right now is to put the head in the mill and drill and tap it for a 3mm and be done with it. I should not have to do that with a $500 model. I cannot understand the tool that they used for the holes. Certainly they would drill and tap it for an existing screw, but the plans call for a 2mm. Mona does not understand that and I cannot explain it to her even on the most simple of terms.
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES The 2mm screws that hold on the standpipe to the head do not fit. They are too small and just pull out. I have tried 2.5 and 3mm, but they don't fit either. I have been to two hobby shops and one specialty shop that deals in nothing but bolts and nuts and they don't have a clue. I have been working with Mona at Sterling, but it is like talking to a rock. She wants to send me more 2mm screws and I have tried to explain to her that I already have some and they don't fit. I don't know what size the hole in the head were drilled and tapped for as NOTHING fits. I cannot make Mona understand that. I need a new head that has been machined for the correct size. I have been a machinist for 65 years and I think I understand screw sizes. I might just have to put the head in the mill and drill and tap the holes for 3mm, but I shoul not have to do that. Mona should not be in customer service. All I need is a new head that has been machined correctly.
Thanks for your reply and for letting me know your credentials, which helps. I m unable to give you any advice because you sound much more experienced than me in engineering. If this was your first experience with Stirlingkit it certainly sounds abnormal; also the experience with the engine.
But to get this clear, your "standpipe" you mean the exhaust? Chimney? I have not heard "standpipe" before and if I haven't, Mona will have no chance. So, you can't attach your exhaust chimney? These engines always use standard metric M2, M2.5 etc and if the supplied screws don't fit, they may have had a tapping failure in your head. Re-tap. Good luck. Forgive Mona, she's doing her best
Strange how some have noisey gears, and others totally silent.