What I Wish I Knew 1 Year Ago About My Cargo Trailer Conversion E633
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2024
- I really like my Renown Cargo Trailer. In this video I explain how it is doing after one year and what I would do differently in ordering it from Renow if I would have known what I know now.
Music Credits:
Ikson - Midnight
/ ikson-midnight
Music by: / ikson
Seven Grey is a nomadic minimalist who is wandering the world (traveling internationally part of the year and North American in his step van the other part)
Electric Equipment:
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Video edited with Final Cut Pro on MacBook Pro 13 (2015)
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personal blog: www.sevenwanderstheworld.com
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I've bought 5 enclosed trailers since 1989. I saw the issues that you were having when you 1st got it. That trailer was sloppily slapped together. I always bought 20 foot long trailers with 7 foot tall sidewalls. A 13 foot tall trailer would turn over much easier and push a LOT of wind going down the road. Dealers always had an upcharged for a one piece roof, or didn't offer the roof with a seam every 4 feet because they corroded at the seams and leak. The 12 inch on center frame is a heavy waste. I bought one with a walk-on roof. They just put 3/4 inch plywood to over the 16 0n center roof trusses and then rolled the one piece roof on it.
Also...for people that think that a camping trailer is better. Campers have MUCH less structural Integrity. They ALL leak and 90% have the cheapest components known to man.
so your saying all 5 of your enclosed trailers leaked?
@@seanmalone7920 Read it again...None of my trailers leaked. Seven's trailer was very sloppily built. HE could see outside through spaces between the frame & skin on the trailer when he was inside the trailer. I believe that he tried to caulk the gaps which, i believe, just stretched the gaps wider.
You are correct. I wouldn’t want any taller than what he’s got, maybe less. And I think it’s too long. He has a habit of overthinking and overdoing almost everything which is why I originally unsubscribed.
I know this post is a year or so old , so I hope you reply, but I was wondering if you ever heard of Weeroll cargo trailers in Ocala Florida, and if so what are your thoughts on them as far as build quality.
A simple fix for the interior seams is a roll of tartape, a hard roller, and a heatgun to speed up adherence in cool weather. Maybe a strip of sikaflex on the seam under the tape. We do this on heavy truck dry van trailers. You could pull insulation off, apply it, then install insulation on top. Love the videos, thanks.
Caulk for gaps, no need to weld for windows, screw tight, with decent metal frames, roof fan just do a non conventional blower, just bolt in jacks, cheepy, 7 tall 16 long interior, optimal, 13' tall is too tall, wind will rock your world,
Your a little long, however easy fix on all issues... MarkMannM2
Pull the screws out of your siding sheet metal one seam at a time and place a strip of double-sided 3M VHB tape between the layers, then reinstall the screws. It will make the seams air and water tight, AND be extremely strong. You can also use 3M VHB double-sided tape on your roof panel to secure the roof sheeting to you ceiling crossmembers, which would greatly help to cut down the roof panel flapping in the wind. Good luck.
great solution!
We have a tiny 5x10 cargo trailer conversion...the roof is the most important thing - if it's that thin, I'd protect it at all costs...I notice you have a bunch of screws punching through the roof - if you MUST put a hole in your roof - do it at a roof truss - you'll be able to seal that more reliably, and the screw will have a harder time working loose. We use self-tapping screws onto a plate. We then attach things to the plate. On the windows - we have a welder in the family, so we're good there. That said - when considering the windows, measure from the floor to basic sitting height - that means the windows will probably be a little lower than you expect. We attached our solar to the roof using Loctite Ultimate from a caulk gun. No holes in the roof - the cables are routed to a curbside wall inlet - works very well, and no holes in roof.
Any time you do ANYTHING on the roof be sure to use self-leveling Dicor sealant. It forms a crust but never fully hardens so it’s constantly sealing and re-sealing gaps and cracks. Nothing else comes close.
I like to run a rail or uni strut and built off that to keep penetrations to minimum and you can always add or reconfigure when needed and never add holes again.
Love this 1-Year after review Seven! Very informative for anyone thinking of wanting to convert their trailer!
Seven, you have so many people that look up to you and have great ideas themselves.
Use Lexel sealant. It’s paintable as well unlike silicone. Dang near NASA grade stuff. Used it on my bus after our roof raise. “perfect”. Love the vids. Thanks 😊
those who say "just turn the trailer around" when the wind blows I suspect have not spent time in the Arizona desert. The wind here can switch directions multiple times in a day.
You could put a product like KillMat on the ceiling. It's made to dampen vibration and should quiet it down
Thanks for the great review. I’m in process of following in your footsteps- buying cargo trailer. I’m taking copious notes to benefit from your experiences.
Maybe just get a vinyl wrap on the trailer to prevent the gap noise
Great information. I will be picking up my 7 X 16 with 7’ ceiling cargo trailer from Renown around the 21st of this month. I am so excited to start the camper conversion. I have had a wonderful experience with my sales rep.
Well thought out review, thanks.
The bigger gaps that are causing the noise in the outside walls, I'd use silicone sealant on, don't have to seal them all. The roof noise slapping, maybe some low expansion foam insulation sprayed into the cavity from the inside? Would fill void, and glue panel to keep it from moving.and give you some additional strength, and rigidity in the roof. I wouldn't seal all those wall seams, you might introduce a mold problem, by trapping moisture.
Thanks for the tips Seven.
Leave the doorway entrance the way it is.. If you put a set of Steps underneath the trailer you will rip them off on a low driveway for sure.
I highly recomend using Lexel to seal it on the outside. It's totally clear and elastomeric. maybe use painters tape to keep it neat.
My Dad used to say "Hind sight is 20/20. That's a shame. But, we're never too old to learn. There's one build (Might be 'I Ride Tiny House) that took all the panels off, caulked between them and replaced them before their build. In their next one, they got solid sheets so many fewer seams. I don't know, but with all you've invested and all the trouble with your truck being stolen, it's a shame that you have these issues too. So very sorry. I hope one of your brilliant viewers will have even a couple of answers. Oh! Here's one; there are windows that are very narrow and people put a few of them in a row to fit between studs, but I don't know if the window is 12" or the opening. Some are solid, some open on half. Not the same as a big window though. :( Good luck!!!!
thx for idea on windows. I believe most of them offered are to fit between 16" inch space studs. mine are 12" which means the windows are too wide. anyway, eventually I'll figure out how to install windows in the walls
@@SevenWanderstheWorld I am quite certain that you will!
Great advice thanks for sharing
I learned about 7.5' Wide V nose cargo trailer recently and the optional 7'6" interior height. The height of this trailer outside is 9 feet high. I am considering having a raised floor with the floor insulation at the floor frame level and having insulated space for water tanks and other storage for various items like a spare tire/wheel, batteries, inverter, ect. That under floor space can be heated and thus the floor you walk on would be heated as well. Floor vents can be installed so the heat can rise better out of the under floor heated compartment. I enjoy living in the North but being prepared properly is a must (all aluminum and great insulation and heating. A ceramic fiberboard rocket mass heater could be installed under the floor to provide ultra efficient low cost and low maintenance heat source.
On the siding overlap gaps, I solved it with closed cell sprayfoam insulation. Sealed up the walls and added structural strength!
I remember you in the step van. It was awfully loud in the cab. I am sorry you have to deal with noise in the trailer. When you get older, you realize your senses get affected...can't think as fast, can't remember most things, drop a lot of things, fall down more, nose looses smell, eyes get cataracts and you don't hear as well..OR SO I THOUGHT. My hearing is sharper, cataracts removed now 20/20 vision, etc. I wish I didn't hear as well. Rattles, clanging etc are more aggrevating. I get it!
Its funny you mention this. My eye sight improves every year, as confirmed by an exam. I can read the tiniest of text, see just fine at a distance. I credit my good eyesight with not listening to the advise that I needed glasses in my younger days. The eye doctor agrees. "Welcome to being near sighted," she said She said her eye sight improves every year also. I cant even credit cataract surgery.
Let’s not forget the ability to tow it, please check your owner’s manual on your towing capacity. Also confirm you don’t overload your trailer weight capacity as well. Was looking at a cheap 4’x8’ tiny cargo trailer and it had a max weight of 1,390lbs. Great video, thanks to you I have the understanding of what to expect
Prior to putting in the walls up possibly have it sprayed with Line-X bed spray about 6 in on either side of the seam
very good video
Great tips
If you need to cut the steel framing, the new diamond grit metal cutting angle grinder wheels are fantastic. I got a few, and still have not worn out the first one, after a year and a half of cutting all sorts of stuff.
I have watched videos of other nomad's in van's, motor home's, travel trailer's and cargo trailer's, talk about the same issues in wind storms. All of them have said they move their rigs to face the wind to prevent those issues....
About the lower space inside the doorway. What about extending the floor over it and use the cubby for storage? You might even fit some sort of slide out stair step in there. I think that space might turn out to be a huge plus, with the entry door securing/covering it.
Put Sound Deadining on the inside of your ceiling. It will add weight and stop noise. For the wind entering the side of the trailer, just turn the trailer 180°.. Into the wind
Thanks for this. It looks like we did some things right already in our upcoming cargo trailer build. Ours is an all aluminum trailer to reduce weight, is only 12’ L x 6’ W x 6’ 6” H for 2 people for better gas mileage, has no rivets but tape instead, and will have windows and Maxx Air fan installed. An RV door with a window and a screen door will be installed too.
We taped the measurements down on our kitchen floor before ordering and worked out our floor plan. 😉
We also opted for no barn door because I’ve never seen anyone actually use it as a deck; they put their outdoor patio in the shade of the trailer instead. There’s also the potential for leakage around it.
I’m sure we’ll run into our own issues and challenges but sounds like we’ll be off to a good start. Good luck with yours.
It sounds like you are getting a nice rig for sure. The biggest downside to taped seams is replacing a panel if one is damaged. It’s nearly impossible to remove a damaged panel without damaging the adjoining panels to it. But on the other hand, it really makes for a smooth look that is appealing and more weather tight.
My first cargo trailer purchased in 2013, was used to move house and save on costs, and subsequently used for everything from hauling ATV's, golf carts and firewood. The exterior panels were 24" o/c and same for the roof. After a few years of use and driving in bad weather it started leaking at every seam, plus the floor and interior sides were chip board and not plywood.
The trailer you have now is already like 8’ tall, with the ground clearance you probably only would have been able to maybe go another foot taller. But not enough to do a loft I’d suspect. The 13’ is from the ground not the floor of the trailer. And vent covers stick up 18”
Wanting a loft for sleeping I would recommend a fifth wheel trailer. They are far more easier to maneuver and since the front of the trailer overhangs the truck bed you could take off the length of the overhang from the length of the trailer. Going higher is not recommended since driving along in high winds will drive you crazy, its like a giant sail catching wind. Another issue with height is not all overpasses are made to federal high way specifications. There are some very old railway underpasses that are marked with a height that one might think they are ok to pass under but a long trailer will not clear the underpass. A friend working parking at a horse show event witnessed an accident where a very expensive trailer lost its two AC units on top. Reason, sharp dip, too long trailer. Rear wheels of the pickup combined with length to axels of trailers raised the trailer just enough to shear off the AC's.
Hang in there, every day is a classroom, we learn new things every day!
Yeah but take a look on your knees at the frame rails of a typical fifth wheel then do the same for a typical cargo trailer.. I rest my case. As for the roof I'm putting a couple of coats of flex seal on it to help keep it waterproof and I'll bet the weight of it alone will aid stopping in the flapping.
It would be alot easier to use L brackets to frame the windows out , welding is not a good option if you already the sheeting on outside. Also you can do the work yourself.
The initial purchase would have been smooth sided (no rivets), I wonder about flat roofs or the one with the bow in it. For the seams you have would try something like flexiseal with a small tip to try and pressurized can to add into the airgap. You might try some adhesive from trusses to sealing gluing them in some spots to help with the floating but still enough wiggle to not tear from flexing.
Construction adhesive on the backside of the aluminum, glued to the insulation panels, would stop most of the wind noise on the roof and give it more rigidity. These roofs are not designed to be walked on (you want plywood under the metal if you wanted to do that). The piece of wood from the factory between the roof joists and the metal is to provide a slope for drainage without having to have the roof joists with built in crowns -- not to add support. You never want to use a trailer with screws on the outside for a camping trailer build -- too much potential for leaks and wind noise as you are finding out the hard way. Ordering the trailer with extra thickness of aluminum is always a good idea (that's what I did).
Extra tall (13 feet) is a very bad idea if you plan to tow it like an rv trailer for trips. Tiny trailers aren't towed that often so it's ok with them.
I'm thinking that many of your issues would have been managed with spay foam insulation.
push caulk tip between your roof and framing just a bit,then squeeze caulk in and that will fix any vibration
Hey Seven, thank you for doing this video, it helped me in my future purchase of a trailer and plan to live in mine after retirement. So here is two questions for you. Knowing you have a longer trailer, and I will be going with a shorter one so bare with me.. Because of the longer trailer and would go with something shorter, would you stay with inner wheel wells or go with the outer ones? I'm guessing you have the 3500lb torsion axles (or suppose you do?), would you switch to the Springs?? Hoobilly...
I have a enclosed cargo trailer home. Biggest thing I experienced during high wind is roof flapping. I need a heavier ceiling mine is worse 24" on centers. I was thinking 3/4 treated plywood on top. I'll have to think about best way to secure it. I use that peel and stick tape on ceiling in summer or with heat gun in cold. Peel and stick tape at Lowes it's thin aluminum on side facing up and black like tar on bottom to roof put on just to bare metal. Peel and stick tape it works and try to use it back to front long ways. It's the best and better than self leveling compound. I also coated my roof after peel and stick tape with Home Depot Uncle Henry's cool white for extra protection. I forget the part number it's thicker than paint though. Uncle Henry's has lots of roof coatings but the one I used seals and keeps cooler until a few years later white turns dark also it prevents rust on metal roof. But with a 3/4 treated plywood on ceiling it shouldn't flap like thin metal in high winds. On my 28' enclosed trailer I got them to put on pancake rollers on rear. On 28' and longer trailers the bottom rear will drag and can do rear damage with out rollers. I also installed a bar lock on inside and out side didn't come with one for outside. When pulling trailer slowing speed down on trailer brake switch slowly applied close by helps drastically when driving when windy. For a rear ramp with no door rain guard rear door they will leak after time. I got a 8' long x 3 1/2" wide thin bent aluminum put over rear ramp door bent a little over rear door and it stopped the water leak. Double fold thin aluminum metal at sheet metal shop, trailer shop or HVAC shop for back door rain guard and slight bend at end and center fold furthest from rear door. Thinner metal for rear door rain guard and just getting them to bend it instead of thicker aluminum and bending it since they already had to bend it was cheaper option. And no more rear door leaks since 2000 on my oldest cargo trailer.
Wind would be a huge problem with a 13' high trailer. If you want to get by for now without installing stabilizer jacks, you can purchase a cheap pair of portable ones like they used on smaller travel trailers or could even use small bottle jacks for a temporary fix. Nothing to install.
The "things" that trip us up are the areas most of us get tripped up. We can't seem to know everything ? So invest in proven manufacturers that will help you after the sale ! Best of luck Seven.
I’d try the acrylic air sealing tape used in zip building envelope systems…
In between ceiling bracing and the skin of the trailer if you hold it up you would be able to put a bead of caulk on top of the rib. There is a Gentleman on UA-cam channel name is gone again one word if I'm not mistaken. His had the cocking but he warned not all trailers do
Its like everything in life. Trail and error. Once you start planning, then you find the problems. Should of drawn-out your plans, layout. Place your windows and additional doors. Would of been great to have a Stepvan as a matching tow vehicle. But you know what you are doing. All takes time and baby steps. Regards
Had a question about how you would do the side man door. To what advantage would you have if the door was flush with floor? Besides bumping your head on header? Mainly because it's the door entry/walkway, so what else can you do with that space differently with door being at different level. My issue would be it would be even in the way more with an awning that it already is. I agree having max height would be nice, whether a lift for bed or storage, or ro ok m for under floor with raised floor! What are your dimensions? Inside & outside height ?
Zip tape is your best friend in this situation. Every seem in my camper I used zip tape and not a leak or wind noise in 2 years.
Hey Steven why not a
Deck on your Roof , a
retractable deck with
Pop-up Canopy and
mosquito netting .
Lounging up above with
the best view when your tall
Having kombucha or your tea
would be as pleasant as can be .
it's too bad about the
Step Van, it was growing on me.
Now I want One a Diesel one ☝
Have you called the manufacturer? I agree with the guy below about the sikaflex.
Many guys silicon both sides of every wall stud before putting insulation in.
Biggest thing for me would be to have spread axles set back farther as my heavy loading would be in the rear.
Would spray foam insulation work in cargo trailers?
Just wondering … could you sell what you have now and order a new one with your new ‘wished I knew’ list? I’m thinking about ‘in the future’ living in a cargo trailer AKA home… 20x8x8 high and wide so there’s more room for insulation … rattling roof and walls would drive me bonkers. Thanks for that bit of info
Yo - 7. Thanks for the hindsight.
A solution to BOTH water entry and wind noise from exterior panels 'luffing' was to remove the plywood paneling inside totally.
Bought a couple cases of metal roof sealant from Titebond and a caulking gun and seam-sealed EVERY INCH of panel seam and along each beam/post where the metal skin attaches.
It 'glues' the skin to the posts- no wind noise. It also seals tight enough that the door cannot be slammed, as doing so creates pressure high enough to slow it down!
Used the same stuff for any air gaps along seams.
This is the most overlooked step in most trailer builds and one that CANNOT BE DONE LATER (without great effort).
Food for thought.
If I were doing a project like this I might find or build a flatbed trailer then weld up a box frame out of 1" square thin walled aluminum tube and cover that with aluminum or fiberglass sheet glued, screwed and riveted together. Maybe Seven's trailer could be beefed up with such a frame, it is very light. My present RV is built this way, before this I had a Forest River class C that was built with pine 2x2s, a staple gun and apparently no glue
We had at work an old 40' highway trailer, 1940's vintage used for storage, the trailer probably went 1,000,000 miles and had wooden side bows or uprights. It is how you build them and not always what they are made of.
My Weeroll trailer has windows and walls insulation. Framing for fan is included
i have a catgp trailer and really i have no problems with the wind...and in here really is windy ...
Caulk it with GE silicone advanced.A stick costs about $11.97.get 2 or three and in clear.Use your finger and a sponge.
a bead of silicone caulk on each side of your roof framing will fix that,i also did my walls,no wind leaks
I have an idea my friend. What about
J B wed this is two
Liquide. Mix together
it can work. Try it or
ask the Company.
👍🙏🇺🇸
A strip of butyl tape along every seam before riveting them?
Roof height. Suggest not exceeding 12 feet. Roof mounted a/c and other items with covers would put you past legal height. Leave some extra height available to be on the safe side.
Seems like they should have each wall stud taped with a self healing tape than flex seal spray both sides of the stud from the inside.
seal it from the outside with rubber sealant. Henry's tropicool?
great idea!
It seems like duct tape is designed specifically for the side panel air leaks if applied on the inside.
Do like Snoozy 2 trailers do: Install a max air fan in the wall.No hole in the roof./No...keep your roof low or you'll catch a buttload of wind on the highway from big rigs and natural gusts!! More sway isn't good.
They have sorry metal hangers on their line. Those seams shouldn’t be bowed out. It’s from them not removing the screw that holds the metal to the frame on the bottom when screwing on the metal. These trailers are built in as big a hurry as they can.
This trailer is a piece of junk. You showed months ago that there were many holes inside. It does not deserve your advertisement, it deserves a complaint! I'm sorry the trailer manufacturer has made you suffer while expecting you to advertise this rubbish.
Agree. And they are a sponsor, so that compromises his opinion.
I remember when you got the trailer you said it was a 28' length, am looking as per your recommendations at Renowned & agree they do top Quality builds & it is up to us as the customer to educate ourselves per upgrades, as for the side air leaks I wondered if you went with their semi-screw less option, also I believe you have the .024 gauge thickness in the roof. I really recommend the entire skin be in .030 Gauge, I was a welder and have built over 60 trailers, many years ago, but don't have the means or ability anymore so looking to them. Also did you op for the heavier 5200 lb axles ? Not ready to buy yet but working toward it, I believe as you say I will just have them do the whole window set up 4 me. My want is a 8.5'x24' with a 7'6" height , staying with everything 16" on center but 2x or double layer the floor , 3/4" Ply. the walls & 3/8" ceiling the wood should structurally really strengthen the whole box & I will have them do the Insulation also. Good to see you again & hope your doing well, please let me know of any thoughts on this matter to do differently would appreciate it. Also I have a 10 acre plot of land near Winnemucca Nevada, if you ever get up that way & wanna primitive camp your more then welcome just send me an e-mail & will get ya directions , would look forward to meet you, want to make it my base camp etc., for now, God speed my friend. - Ron-
Sounds like you need a Weeroll trailer.
👍👍
Trailer manuf. Ignore EVERY complaint this man had.
How did the sound of the wind go again? 😉
HAH! it is rather strange sound... low buzzing
Fans: don't punch a hole in your roof. Use sidewall units instead. Same with ac.
You make a good point, on my previous cargo trailer there was a factory installed roof vent, it leaked. And once the interior is finished this is the last thing you need. My new cargo mate has side venting that doesn't leak.
Silkaflex caulking for gaps
caulk your seams it works.
Bro. You said the ceiling makes a bunch of noise in the high wind but you have no insulation or ceiling material?? You can’t complain about your build UNTIL YOU’RE DONE WITH YOUR BUILD!!! That’s like complaining about it being so dark before you add windows? Yeah. It’s just a box until you make it awesome😂
Point #1 Solution - Eternabond 3" Tape
Ask Badge for a fix!
you could save yourself a lot of work by buying a used camping trailer to begin with
Windows: use hardwood stock instead of the high cost of welding metal, to support structure for window openings.
Roof: Add plywood over trusses then adhere aluminum sheet to plywood. Simple
I mean no disrespectful when I ask this just curious, but why is it taking so long to build
two reasons: I had major delays due to stolen vehicle and related financial stress and second, I build slow
@@SevenWanderstheWorld Your truck is gone a year ago and yeah I guess you do build really slow, I wish you the best though!
Dude followed your channel for years, there is a solution for all the issues is to buy a trailer made to live in, the rest of your issues with the trailer are self induced
and with the insulation and the paneling you can not hear nothing he is crazy..
and if he hear somthing park the other way...
So in other words you messed up. Should have walked before you run.
it is indeed a learning experience as I go through the journey
I'm not trying to be rude but it looks like you have a big expensive nightmare of a money pit there. With all the framing that needs adjusted and all the holes to be cut not to mention the insulation in the walls is severely lacking, learning on the ceiling screws coming through the roof. Nowhere near finished on the inside, stabilizer jacks etc etc etc. Maybe a better option to buy a conversion already done or just get a toy hauler and do mild to medium customizations
Four and a half mins in and I heard enough to not be interested in them, thx.
i guess that's what happens if you are buying something and using it for something that it is not intended for
Over a yr and the inside still isn't done
Vertical seams are a no no. Poor engineering. Thats why campers have horizontal seams in most places. Just turn the sheets the other way. Simple
Next time buy a quality built camping trailer !! Save work and $$$$$ overall....
in a prior video I explained the many, many reasons a commercial camp trailer is not a solution for me (one of which is my 6'6" height)
They don't make quality camping trailers anymore.
Same, no sound.
because it is not a live in trailer it is a hauling trailer . should have just bought a rv trailer and been done with it .
in prior video explained the many reasons a commercial RV camper would not work for me (one is cost and another my 6'6" height being way too tall for normal RV ceilings... but there are dozens of other reasons as well)
An inexpensive, low tech, easy fix for when the wind is blowing hard and into those gaps is to turn the trailer around. The roof slapping can be fixed by going to a tire shop and getting some old tires to lay on the roof. When you move camp, just pull them down and place inside until you setup a new camp location.
Don’t buy a cargo trailer that have rivets, buy the more expensive ones that have seams instead of rivets…..
No something
Seven, I've followed you for quite some time. I'm guessing it's been 3-4 years. I'm going out on a limb by saying that you should have kept the Step Van. I won't stop watching, but I think that you were happier then. No problems, you were chilled then. If you wanted a freedom vehicle you could of purchased a small truck to venture out and see sites. This is just my opinion. This truck and camper trailer doesn't suit you, again just my opinion. I've seen you more engaged with the step van. I always an-anxiously wait for you videos...