The chip that blew is the SMPS controller with integrated power transistor, for example TNY263. It's not because of anything external to the board, being shorted, the most likely external reason could be overvoltage from the mains, but these chips often blow up when pushed to the edge.
The chip that blew was the driver for the transformer of the power supply. I also agree with the light bulb suggestion as a fuse but you would need an incandecant bulb that is rated for the foltage you are using it on. Not sure how easy it is to get a 240V bulb in this part of the world but 2 120V bulbs in series would work too.
Since we would be using the bulb as a fuse rather than for its intended purpose, the voltage rating isn't important, as long as it passes enough current to test the machine with the components in question energized. A light bulb might actually not be a good way to test in this situation though, because the voltage drop across it will change quite a bit as different components are energized and de-energized, and these rapid voltage changes could potentially interfere with the processes involved in testing. For example, the compressor contactor might not get quite enough voltage to completely close, and this can cause the contactor to burn out. All the solenoid valves are likewise designed to run within a certain voltage range. Too low of voltage can burn out inductive loads like these solenoids and contactors because it isn't quite strong enough to fully pull the iron into its place, which leaves an air gap that makes it harder for the magnetic field being generated by the windings to complete its path through the solenoid. This greatly reduces the induction in the coil, which leads to a lot of extra energy being turned into heat inside the coil. The voltage drop across a fuse is specifically designed to be very minimal until the very second it is about to blow, so this doesn't allow your equipment to spend much time with the voltage in that danger zone. You can still use a light bulb if you're careful, but you must account for these factors. And if your board starts acting up, keep in mind that it could be due to rapid voltage drops that could occur when an inductive load engages through the light bulb. (The compressor on this machine is not wired through this fuse though.)
Now that I think about it, I see what you mean by having the right voltage rating. That way your bulbs don't burn out if you have a dead short. You can keep testing without having to keep replacing a fuse. And you have a visual cue to instantly indicate if you end up eliminating the short circuit.
Nice troubleshooting video! It's hard enough to troubleshoot one of these ice machines as it is, but on top of that having to hold a camera and narrate at the same time? That takes real skills!
Amazing how fast you got the new board . I also got a tool bag setup with nicer tools just ready to go but I don't use it much just because it's too heavy . The older I get the lighter I want my bag to be it seems.
I hate the fact that control boards have become such a common single point of failure for modern appliances. In the last month I've had a newer television and garage door require control board replacements. Seeing more junk on modern HVAC units as well.
That's why several years ago I built some of my own control boards for some of these ice machines. I used Arduino boards, solid state relays, LED's, resistors, potentiometers (to adjust settings), and integrated my own sensors. I learned how to write some basic Arduino code and used that to make my own program to read the switches and sensors and decide when all the different components would turn on and off. My boards have worked really good for many years now in the machines that I know of that that didn't fall apart for some other reason.
I have fabricated some of my own control boards for ice machines. Not this model, but other older Manitowocs and Scotsmans. I wrote my own programs according to the model I wanted it to run, loaded them onto Arduino Nano boards, used solid state relays and some of my own sensors and LED's and such, and had to hardwire it all into the machines. I have several machines still running out there with my homemade control boards in them. The cool thing about this is that I could change any parameter I wanted to. If 3.5 minutes was not quite enough for an old Manitowc with a rough plate to harvest, I could give it as much time as it needed. I also eliminated crappy sensors that were prone to failure. I was able to use a thermistor on the back of the plate to control ice thickness, instead of the really touchy ice thickness sensors. I used a magnetic reed switch float instead of the water level sensor. Those things were always so touchy- when the boards get older they will often read full water trough just from the fully insulated wire being near the metal cover. And with the thermistor on the back of the plate, I'm able to quickly detect a no water situation, a low refrigerant situation, a bad dump valve, etc, without having to first run the machine for several hours in that less than ideal condition.
Get alot of these switch mode chips failing not so much on commercial stuff but the domestic stuff it's common and they don't have fuses so they either look like yours after the popper or there's a large resistor on incoming mains that will have failed and the chip will be short... they generally are an 8 pin package with a missing leg, if you want to you can change the chip and fuse or resistor and your good to go, or if the customer will pay just change the board and fix it later and use it to test with on other jobs...
@@HVACRSurvival No, it is a fully integrated switch mode power supply IC, most likely a LNK304. The AC is rectified outside of the chip. It's a common repair on white goods.
Ice machine are my favorite, dispatch always sends me the ice machines, they know I love em.
The chip that blew is the SMPS controller with integrated power transistor, for example TNY263. It's not because of anything external to the board, being shorted, the most likely external reason could be overvoltage from the mains, but these chips often blow up when pushed to the edge.
Thank you for sharing that information, I thought I blew it at first. 👍👍
And Manitowoc always hopes that edge comes after warranty is up. Those boards are not cheap!
I finally found something that I dislike working on more than ice machines and that's ice cream machines. 🤣
I love ice cream. I hate ice machines🤣
Ditto....hate ice machines
The chip that blew was the driver for the transformer of the power supply. I also agree with the light bulb suggestion as a fuse but you would need an incandecant bulb that is rated for the foltage you are using it on. Not sure how easy it is to get a 240V bulb in this part of the world but 2 120V bulbs in series would work too.
Since we would be using the bulb as a fuse rather than for its intended purpose, the voltage rating isn't important, as long as it passes enough current to test the machine with the components in question energized. A light bulb might actually not be a good way to test in this situation though, because the voltage drop across it will change quite a bit as different components are energized and de-energized, and these rapid voltage changes could potentially interfere with the processes involved in testing. For example, the compressor contactor might not get quite enough voltage to completely close, and this can cause the contactor to burn out. All the solenoid valves are likewise designed to run within a certain voltage range. Too low of voltage can burn out inductive loads like these solenoids and contactors because it isn't quite strong enough to fully pull the iron into its place, which leaves an air gap that makes it harder for the magnetic field being generated by the windings to complete its path through the solenoid. This greatly reduces the induction in the coil, which leads to a lot of extra energy being turned into heat inside the coil. The voltage drop across a fuse is specifically designed to be very minimal until the very second it is about to blow, so this doesn't allow your equipment to spend much time with the voltage in that danger zone. You can still use a light bulb if you're careful, but you must account for these factors. And if your board starts acting up, keep in mind that it could be due to rapid voltage drops that could occur when an inductive load engages through the light bulb. (The compressor on this machine is not wired through this fuse though.)
Now that I think about it, I see what you mean by having the right voltage rating. That way your bulbs don't burn out if you have a dead short. You can keep testing without having to keep replacing a fuse. And you have a visual cue to instantly indicate if you end up eliminating the short circuit.
Thank you for showing us how to clean it.
Love your videos 👍🏻
You are so welcome!
Love your videos very inspiring to me
That's awesome to hear! Thank you for letting me know!
@@HVACRSurvival watched your videos for years and I love them its very cool what you do
Nice troubleshooting video! It's hard enough to troubleshoot one of these ice machines as it is, but on top of that having to hold a camera and narrate at the same time? That takes real skills!
It can be extra work for sure. Thanks for the recognition
Amazing how fast you got the new board .
I also got a tool bag setup with nicer tools just ready to go but I don't use it much just because it's too heavy .
The older I get the lighter I want my bag to be it seems.
YOu better show us every time how to clean it. This is the only content i watch :)
Really? Do you like ice machines?
use a low amp light bulb as a fuse - lights up on a direct short or off on a good circuit.
great idea
I hate the fact that control boards have become such a common single point of failure for modern appliances. In the last month I've had a newer television and garage door require control board replacements. Seeing more junk on modern HVAC units as well.
That's why several years ago I built some of my own control boards for some of these ice machines. I used Arduino boards, solid state relays, LED's, resistors, potentiometers (to adjust settings), and integrated my own sensors. I learned how to write some basic Arduino code and used that to make my own program to read the switches and sensors and decide when all the different components would turn on and off. My boards have worked really good for many years now in the machines that I know of that that didn't fall apart for some other reason.
I’ve had 2 of those boards go bad. 1 like yours and another where the compressor relay wouldn’t close
Thanks a lot
From Pakistan
I like these ice maker vids ... You and Super Dave do good job's on these vids ... Thx ...
Been waiting on a board for this same ice machine for a year now
United refrigeration had it
I have fabricated some of my own control boards for ice machines. Not this model, but other older Manitowocs and Scotsmans. I wrote my own programs according to the model I wanted it to run, loaded them onto Arduino Nano boards, used solid state relays and some of my own sensors and LED's and such, and had to hardwire it all into the machines. I have several machines still running out there with my homemade control boards in them. The cool thing about this is that I could change any parameter I wanted to. If 3.5 minutes was not quite enough for an old Manitowc with a rough plate to harvest, I could give it as much time as it needed. I also eliminated crappy sensors that were prone to failure. I was able to use a thermistor on the back of the plate to control ice thickness, instead of the really touchy ice thickness sensors. I used a magnetic reed switch float instead of the water level sensor. Those things were always so touchy- when the boards get older they will often read full water trough just from the fully insulated wire being near the metal cover. And with the thermistor on the back of the plate, I'm able to quickly detect a no water situation, a low refrigerant situation, a bad dump valve, etc, without having to first run the machine for several hours in that less than ideal condition.
Ahhhh mold-itowic!
Good work Rick
Thanks Victor!
Get alot of these switch mode chips failing not so much on commercial stuff but the domestic stuff it's common and they don't have fuses so they either look like yours after the popper or there's a large resistor on incoming mains that will have failed and the chip will be short... they generally are an 8 pin package with a missing leg, if you want to you can change the chip and fuse or resistor and your good to go, or if the customer will pay just change the board and fix it later and use it to test with on other jobs...
I wondered if that was a bridge rectifier chip
designers do not take enough care with the layout and magnetics on their power supply. End up with spikes that slowly degrade the chip.
@@HVACRSurvival No, it is a fully integrated switch mode power supply IC, most likely a LNK304. The AC is rectified outside of the chip. It's a common repair on white goods.
Another excellent video 👍👍👍
nice job.
👍👍🤜🤛
Great Video. May I ask. How to change rotation or reverse rotation of 3 phase motor ? Thank you for sharing
Usually swap the two outside legs but usually any two legs will work.
Last time I took the dog for a walk, it was back to the owner to complain about them not keeping track of it. (We have cats)
How come you didnt see the chip blown before. And what it controls to search for a failure
If the chip was blown how was the machine working like it should?
It had actually burned up the display and the replacement.
I didn't replace the display.
🇺🇲💪👍❄️ great vid
☝️🤘👍
21 thumbs up
you didn't sanitize the machine.
There's a lot of things I didn't show, that wasn't the focus of the video.