Hullo young man. You nailed it this time. Those things you named at 3:20, we call them cotton buds. I had ear problems a few years ago and there was the answer some dry lubricant and some cotton buds and that would have cleared all that gunk out of those ear drums. Thank you Dr Moses (ear specialist). Take care BIG GUY.
That is a very nice drillpress bud. I have the very same exact machine, and I love it. I have had it for a long time, and she runs as good today as the day I bought her. Good to see that someone else appreciates good old tools as I do. Thanks for the video .
Great video. The only thing you missed is what to do if there is run out. Mine wobbles and I’m going to start with cleaning the chuck good. I do think the quill has a little play. Mine is an old Walker Turner. The craftsmen you just did is just like my dad’s. Thanks!
That’s a great drill press Jonathan. My dad had the tabletop version. His might have even been older. Craftsman tools from those days very great quality and rugged. Your video reminded me that I need to get some of that dry lubricant. Since I finally fixed the problem on my drill press I need to do your tune up procedure on it.
I restore/refurbish vintage drill presses and coincidentally have a Craftsman like yours (1955) for sale ATM. Seeing a hair over 0.0025 runout from the original Jacobs 633C chuck. It's a simple design that held up well. Only had to replace one of the four bearings. Not a big deal. The machine runs like the proverbial tank.
Good video Would! Would it be worth mentioning that was actually .005 runout? -.003 to .002 I ignored the negative measurement on truing up a bench grinder causing a lot of tail chasing.
I beginning to believe that no one on UA-cam knows, or cares to share the run out. I saw one video where the guy cleans the spindle, and the chuck, puts it back together, turn it on and (drum roll please) it wobbles to beat hell!, But he's standing claiming it's perfect! My intuition says a) cleaning may correct it b) the chuck needs to be replaced, so might as well upgrade c) the chuck isn't seated on the spindle well d) the spindle bearings are bad. I assume there are bearings in there somewhere 🤔 e) something else
I had the benchtop version of the drill press. I loved it but moving the table was a pain because it did have a rack and pinion mechanisms. I bought it for $50, cleaned it up and flipped it for $220. Kinda miss it tho ool
I notice that just after 2:46 you just pry the chuck off, it seems to be a simple press fit. How does that not fall apart, is there no screw inside to hold it onto the shaft?
Just got a brand new harbor freight drill press put together super excited to use turned it on and now I’m super bummed out there’s a terrible wobble! Help I’m a damsel in BIG distress who needs a hero any advice?
One extra tid bit, alot of these older drill presses have sleeve bearings and they need to be oiled, there will be a small hole. It is a whole lot cheaper to oil them than burn the motor out.
A couple things - what about lubricating the spindle? It’s rotating and sliding within another sleeve to go up and down all without binding.... also, what is there is runout? That’s great yours didn’t have much but if it did then what?
I'm so glad to see this. I inherited the benchtop version of this press. I do have the original owners manual and would be happy to copy it for you if you like. I also have a planing attachment with the fence which I have not been brave enough to attempt. Thanks so very much. :)
my drill press sees to bind about 1/4 of the way down and then frees up about 1/2 way down. same thing when I let go of the handle. It will snap back to the bind and then I have to manually wind it about 1 turn to get it back to the top. I have had the handle off and the chuck out and spring off and cleaned and lubricated but still have a bind
I have an old delta that has a sticky chuck. Its ridiculously hard to turn with the chuck key. I was hoping to find a remedy here,but I guess I'll carry on. Dont really wanna replace the original chuck,its probably just gunky and needs lubrication.
Hi i just got my first drill/milling machine . It's a rong fu rf 20 from 1980 . Not rusted but it needs a lot of work and clean up . Any tips before i try to clean up and lube it myself ?
An easy/accurate way to confirm quill is perpendicular to table: Using a bit of wire (similar to a coat hanger) slip in a portion into the chuck and tighten. Then bend the wire down and out, so as to reach the table top, way out by the edges. Manually rotate the chuck. If the wire touches the extreme corners of the table in the same way (feeler gauge is useful here), then you have a broad reference to establish 90 degrees. This is better than an small square/small reference area. Make sense?
I actually have the same machine (security stickers still in place) and I am having a terrible time getting the chuck off. It has been WD40 overnight. Cant fit anything between the chuck and piece above it to pry off. Any suggestions?
What do you do if your chuck and/or quill are out of alignment. My family pitched in years ago and bought me a standing drill press (from a discount tool store so no manuals) and I love it, but the bit has always wobbled. It can draw a neat little 5mm diameter circle on my work unless I sink the tip of the bit before turning the press on. I tried replacing the quill and the chuck at different points in time, but nothing has fixed the wobbling bit. I hadn't thought about it before, but maybe it's that my belt or motor is too loose and the vibration is causing the wobble? I just don't know.
Can you tell how you got the chuck out? I have a vintage craftsman drill press that I need to remove. The chuck has a wobble, and like you I don't hafeva manual for. Thanks for the video, keep it up.
Check out the part of the video where I am using WD40 and a pry bar. It was stuck pretty good but it was just a tapered shaft that it was on. Just some motivation from a pry bar and a hammer should be enough
If that chuck hasn't been rebuilt in 70 years, it should have been stripped down, and new jaws installed. Plus, its a more thorough way of cleaning it, vs Q tips, which will never get all the grit out.
Reminds me of when I used to share an office with a good friend of mine. We'd always be printing off the troll faces and hiding them in each others desks haha. Great prank!
You have to get a new one I think. Once something is bent it's toast. The only potential fix is that if you have a tapered shaft then maybe you're Chuck is not seated all the way
It's worth mention that the shaft telescopes inside the press... SO there are bushings and bearings and all that... Those can wear down or out too... Obviously, any of the such is kind of painstaking and technical, but worth figuring out exactly what causes the wobble before "junking" an otherwise good or repairable machine... ;o)
First of all yeah yeah yeah amazing video... you always do amazing videos... but that ending joke, now that's brilliant! 2 Questions: 1) noticed you did not clean the pulley wheels - is that not necessary? 2) how do you know what way your quill uses to remove? Mine is an old Powematic, 1140F and not finding much online plus don't known if prior owner changed it. Haven't been successful removing it and don't want to do something stupid to break it.
A pretty fair bet is that it "probably" bumps off with a mallet... BUT there are a few things to do for "figuring it out"... First, hunt down a good "penetrating lubricant" or "rust breaker" lubricant chemical... I can recommend "PB Blaster's Penetrating Catalyst"... It's in a white bottle with bright red and yellow labels and a small yellow cap ( small for a spray-can)... You'll want to use the "straw" to get the stuff between the chuck and the "movement shaft", which is the telescoping thing that actually moves up and down... inside it is where the "Power shaft" transfers power from the pulleys to the chuck... Just sprits a little (the stuff stays slick forever and gets everywhere)... and leave it a few minutes... and then sprits again... maybe two or three "passes". Give it between ten minutes and half an hour to "soak in" because this stuff takes a few minutes but REALLY penetrates... AND THEN you can take a plain rubber mallet and "drum" around the upper sides of the chuck... You're trying to introduce some wobble, not move mountains or "break" anything free all at once. SO strive for a firm strike each time, and then rotate to a new position... You should be able to see movement in a few passes, but be patient... Old parts that haven't moved in years can take a while to free up. What if it's not a "friction fitting"??? Non-friction connections come in two types that I've ever seen. 1. End-bolt... This may have a bolt straight up the center of the chuck, and they tend to be tight as hell... BUT you have to clean and Clean and CLEAN first to even see them usually... Go ahead and spray degreasing agent (I don't recommend acetone here, personally) while the chuck is wide open on the drill... WD-40 is reasonable, and won't deteriorate the table or your face should there be backspray... BUT I've generally been reasonably lucky with Simple Green or Purple Power (Advance Auto or Auto-Zone are good sources... along with the PB Blaster) and HOT water, a "throw away" tooth brush will also help if the chuck is large enough... Alternatively (and for smaller chucks) you can pop by any store with a craft section for pipe-cleaners (those wirey fuzzy things kids make silly crap out of at school) and those can be twisted together or manually formed to shapes for reaching in and swabbing out before going through the migraine-induction of cotton swabs. Once cleaned out, you should be able to tell what type of bolt is holding this thing in place with a decent flashlight... shine right up the chuck and look... with luck it's still got enough of the head to show phillips or allen or even hexagonal shape for a tool to reach and "grab"... THEN it's as simple as a pipe-wrench on the chuck itself or some means to "lock" the pulleys-end of the shaft in position to extract the bolt... BUT you may decide that cleaning the chuck out was good enough, and move on without too much fuss. 2. SOME (in my dubious experience only a few) chucks were clamped onto the shaft with a "set-screw" which will usually be an allen-driven bolt directly in the side of the chuck. These are almost always painfully obvious, since the bolt shows on the side of the chuck or a base-coller... To reference the video, there's a collar on Kats-Moses' drill-press right above his chuck, but it's there to protect shaft, and to help with re-installing or upgrading the chuck in size... The black dot on the side of it is probably the same kind of allen-drive bolt I'm talking about, and looks similar enough that you can understand what I'm talking about. IF your Press DOES have an "end-bolt", you can now understand a new importance for NOT "bottoming out" drill bits in the thing when working... Of course, a dab of silicone can help protect the bolt, too... but regular maintenance and checking up on it is also important... It's easy for bits being shoved into wood and other materials to beat on those bolts, and that's probably why the friction-fit method became as popular as it is... In any case, if you don't see the obvious allen bolt sticking out the side of the chuck... I'd sprits away with the PB Blaster and start banging, myself... Being easy AND using a proper mallet rather than a hardened metal hammer is going to serve you well, and they do make these for WORK... so it's not exactly a china doll. Relax, breathe, and carry on. I believe you can get there from here. ;o)
DO NOT REMOVE A COLLARED CHUCK LIKE THIS DUDE DID. IT MUST BE UNTHREADED, WHICH WILL POP THE TAPER FOR YOU. DO NOT CHECK RUNOUT WITH SOME RANDOM ARBOR SHAFT EITHER.
First, I don’t need to hear you laugh at yourself with Nicolas Cage, things. What a waste of time then when you do start showing us something you do it super fast and don’t say a word not the best teaching technique I’ve seen I really wanted to learn something from you, I didn’t or at least not as much as I could have with some decent verbal explanation of what you were doing either before or as you were doing it doing it.
Nicholas Gauge? Dear god man, that was awful. I’ve asked people to leave my house for jokes like that. Please vacate the internet, and do not interact with any other humans.
5:44 Sorry, but i can't unsee what you are doing here.. And you are FILMING this. How do you not go get a wrench or a socket? I know you have great tips to share, and I am going to watch this and take something out of it. but wow, that really hurts the credibililty of your expertise with me.
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Jonathan Katz-Moses, I don't know if you check these or not but, in case you do, check vintagemachinery.org for a manual.
There's something about fine tuning up your tools and giving a good clean up that's so satisfying
The Cage table saw blade made me giggle.
Hahaha yeah that wasn't voice over. That was my favorite too. Picturing him raising that for the first time made me laugh uncontrollably
I can't believe you desicrated Greg like that. He is the true genius. Shaun is just the front.
Hullo young man. You nailed it this time. Those things you named at 3:20, we call them cotton buds. I had ear problems a few years ago and there was the answer some dry lubricant and some cotton buds and that would have cleared all that gunk out of those ear drums. Thank you Dr Moses (ear specialist). Take care BIG GUY.
That is a very nice drillpress bud. I have the very same exact machine, and I love it. I have had it for a long time, and she runs as good today as the day I bought her. Good to see that someone else appreciates good old tools as I do.
Thanks for the video .
Great video series Jonathan. Shop maintenance isn’t one of my favorite things to do but once it’s done you wish you had done it sooner.
Thank you for sharing, you talked about so areas that I’ve never thought about cleaning and an easy way to get the tension just right 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video. The only thing you missed is what to do if there is run out. Mine wobbles and I’m going to start with cleaning the chuck good. I do think the quill has a little play. Mine is an old Walker Turner. The craftsmen you just did is just like my dad’s. Thanks!
That’s a great drill press Jonathan. My dad had the tabletop version. His might have even been older. Craftsman tools from those days very great quality and rugged. Your video reminded me that I need to get some of that dry lubricant. Since I finally fixed the problem on my drill press I need to do your tune up procedure on it.
I restore/refurbish vintage drill presses and coincidentally have a Craftsman like yours (1955) for sale ATM. Seeing a hair over 0.0025 runout from the original Jacobs 633C chuck. It's a simple design that held up well. Only had to replace one of the four bearings. Not a big deal. The machine runs like the proverbial tank.
Good video Would! Would it be worth mentioning that was actually .005 runout? -.003 to .002
I ignored the negative measurement on truing up a bench grinder causing a lot of tail chasing.
The innuendo is strong with this video. Great video on a way-to-often neglected machine. Have fun "cranking on your chuck by hand".
How do you adjust if it's spinning non-concentrically
I beginning to believe that no one on UA-cam knows, or cares to share the run out. I saw one video where the guy cleans the spindle, and the chuck, puts it back together, turn it on and (drum roll please) it wobbles to beat hell!, But he's standing claiming it's perfect! My intuition says a) cleaning may correct it b) the chuck needs to be replaced, so might as well upgrade c) the chuck isn't seated on the spindle well d) the spindle bearings are bad. I assume there are bearings in there somewhere 🤔 e) something else
Yay! He did the Drill Press!
just bought a £90 clarke drill press, it flexes like crazy , 1.5mm x 46mm column, wondered about filling with concrete and rebar.
I had the benchtop version of the drill press. I loved it but moving the table was a pain because it did have a rack and pinion mechanisms. I bought it for $50, cleaned it up and flipped it for $220. Kinda miss it tho ool
What a great prank. The gift that keeps on giving. Useful information as well.
I notice that just after 2:46 you just pry the chuck off, it seems to be a simple press fit. How does that not fall apart, is there no screw inside to hold it onto the shaft?
Nicolas Gage approves this video (and the smooth shaft jokes).
Just got a brand new harbor freight drill press put together super excited to use turned it on and now I’m super bummed out there’s a terrible wobble! Help I’m a damsel in BIG distress who needs a hero any advice?
I really enjoy your videos, they help a lot. I'll be putting that digital guage on my wish list.
Thanks for sharing your video. I enjoyed watching. Take care and God Bless.
One extra tid bit, alot of these older drill presses have sleeve bearings and they need to be oiled, there will be a small hole. It is a whole lot cheaper to oil them than burn the motor out.
A couple things - what about lubricating the spindle? It’s rotating and sliding within another sleeve to go up and down all without binding.... also, what is there is runout? That’s great yours didn’t have much but if it did then what?
So in love with the cage hahaha
If your drill press suffered from run-out, how would you go about fixing the problem?
and if you check run out, what is acceptable? if your over, what them? new chuck?
I'm so glad to see this. I inherited the benchtop version of this press. I do have the original owners manual and would be happy to copy it for you if you like. I also have a planing attachment with the fence which I have not been brave enough to attempt. Thanks so very much. :)
my drill press sees to bind about 1/4 of the way down and then frees up about 1/2 way down. same thing when I let go of the handle. It will snap back to the bind and then I have to manually wind it about 1 turn to get it back to the top. I have had the handle off and the chuck out and spring off and cleaned and lubricated but still have a bind
The shot starting at 1:15 made me an instant subscriber. Good job, mate 😂
I have an old delta that has a sticky chuck. Its ridiculously hard to turn with the chuck key. I was hoping to find a remedy here,but I guess I'll carry on. Dont really wanna replace the original chuck,its probably just gunky and needs lubrication.
Hi i just got my first drill/milling machine . It's a rong fu rf 20 from 1980 . Not rusted but it needs a lot of work and clean up . Any tips before i try to clean up and lube it myself ?
Can you use brake cleaner instead of acetone
Well if the chuck rotates eccentrically, what can be done to fix it?
An easy/accurate way to confirm quill is perpendicular to table: Using a bit of wire (similar to a coat hanger) slip in a portion into the chuck and tighten. Then bend the wire down and out, so as to reach the table top, way out by the edges. Manually rotate the chuck. If the wire touches the extreme corners of the table in the same way (feeler gauge is useful here), then you have a broad reference to establish 90 degrees. This is better than an small square/small reference area. Make sense?
I dont know. Doesn't sound scientific to me. I'll take a square and a smooth shaft anyday over a coat hanger
@@katzmosestools The concept is to extend the reference point way beyond the immediate zone right below the chuck.
I actually have the same machine (security stickers still in place) and I am having a terrible time getting the chuck off. It has been WD40 overnight. Cant fit anything between the chuck and piece above it to pry off. Any suggestions?
Hello, love the video but im wondering what model number is that big delta to the right? I think I may be getting the same one here soon
Nice work! Amazing the amount of Gunk that collects in these kind of machines! The Cage prank is also funny, id like to see his reaction!
Will you do a jointer tune up? I have a jointer i need to restore and would appreciate seeing a tune up for this. Your videos are great!
What was that can of stuff you cleaned the lift part with?
friend what model is your drill and what measure is the chuck of 1/2 or 5/8 plis
How do you remove the chcuk?
- I'm glad that you know.
But most of us do not.
What do you do if there is play when you rotate with the gauge meaning it is not spinning concentric or whatever?
Epic prank. Kudos JK-M !
When you checked for runout and whether the chuck was spinning well, you didn’t mention what to do to correct it if it’s off. Mine’s off.
All thes nicolas cage pics are funny man! I'm curious to see his face when he gets back. Great informative video man!
thank you Katz
What do you do if your chuck and/or quill are out of alignment. My family pitched in years ago and bought me a standing drill press (from a discount tool store so no manuals) and I love it, but the bit has always wobbled. It can draw a neat little 5mm diameter circle on my work unless I sink the tip of the bit before turning the press on.
I tried replacing the quill and the chuck at different points in time, but nothing has fixed the wobbling bit.
I hadn't thought about it before, but maybe it's that my belt or motor is too loose and the vibration is causing the wobble? I just don't know.
I dont know man. Sounds like a mystery but the motor or belt could definitely be the culprit
Also acetone can be harsh on your skin and defenetly want to avoid its fumes, gasoline is much safer to use as a degreeser!
Can you tell how you got the chuck out? I have a vintage craftsman drill press that I need to remove. The chuck has a wobble, and like you I don't hafeva manual for. Thanks for the video, keep it up.
Check out the part of the video where I am using WD40 and a pry bar. It was stuck pretty good but it was just a tapered shaft that it was on. Just some motivation from a pry bar and a hammer should be enough
Love the knowing look after each of the shaft jokes
Thanks for these videos. How about drum sander next? Thanks
very relaxing
Please, please, please tell me there's going to be a reaction video of when Sean gets back.
I hope so!!!!!!!!!!!
Man, you made me laugh so hard at the beginning! That was so awesome!
If that chuck hasn't been rebuilt in 70 years, it should have been stripped down, and new jaws installed. Plus, its a more thorough way of cleaning it, vs Q tips, which will never get all the grit out.
You laugh at ole Nick, but he’s one treasure finding mo fo 😉 love this video JKM!
“Dry” lubricant. 😎
Love when you mentioned that the smooth shaft needed to be at full extension...
Reminds me of when I used to share an office with a good friend of mine. We'd always be printing off the troll faces and hiding them in each others desks haha. Great prank!
Why would check square after you checked runout and determined it was ok?
If your tires were balanced you'd still check alignment
@@katzmosestools that doesn’t make sense, tire balance and steering alignment are two different axis. Runout and square are the same axis.
@@mode1charlie170 runout has nothing to do with whether the bit is square to the table
@@katzmosestools Ok I see what your checking now. I didn’t think that the table could be out. Thanks
Came for information on how to fix a drill press that's belt seems to be slipping or something and stayed for the Pranks.
How is it not 'Tune Up Tuesday'?!?!?
Hahaha that's just our upload schedule
Use a link belt. You will be amazed.
He said, “smooth shaft”. Hahaha!
Ok, but what if there is run out (quill wobble)?
You have to get a new one I think. Once something is bent it's toast. The only potential fix is that if you have a tapered shaft then maybe you're Chuck is not seated all the way
It's worth mention that the shaft telescopes inside the press... SO there are bushings and bearings and all that... Those can wear down or out too...
Obviously, any of the such is kind of painstaking and technical, but worth figuring out exactly what causes the wobble before "junking" an otherwise good or repairable machine... ;o)
Constructive criticism: Use proper size wrenches and not pliers. Use pliers for what they were designed for.
First of all yeah yeah yeah amazing video... you always do amazing videos... but that ending joke, now that's brilliant!
2 Questions: 1) noticed you did not clean the pulley wheels - is that not necessary? 2) how do you know what way your quill uses to remove? Mine is an old Powematic, 1140F and not finding much online plus don't known if prior owner changed it. Haven't been successful removing it and don't want to do something stupid to break it.
A pretty fair bet is that it "probably" bumps off with a mallet... BUT there are a few things to do for "figuring it out"...
First, hunt down a good "penetrating lubricant" or "rust breaker" lubricant chemical... I can recommend "PB Blaster's Penetrating Catalyst"... It's in a white bottle with bright red and yellow labels and a small yellow cap ( small for a spray-can)... You'll want to use the "straw" to get the stuff between the chuck and the "movement shaft", which is the telescoping thing that actually moves up and down... inside it is where the "Power shaft" transfers power from the pulleys to the chuck... Just sprits a little (the stuff stays slick forever and gets everywhere)... and leave it a few minutes... and then sprits again... maybe two or three "passes".
Give it between ten minutes and half an hour to "soak in" because this stuff takes a few minutes but REALLY penetrates... AND THEN you can take a plain rubber mallet and "drum" around the upper sides of the chuck... You're trying to introduce some wobble, not move mountains or "break" anything free all at once. SO strive for a firm strike each time, and then rotate to a new position... You should be able to see movement in a few passes, but be patient... Old parts that haven't moved in years can take a while to free up.
What if it's not a "friction fitting"???
Non-friction connections come in two types that I've ever seen.
1. End-bolt... This may have a bolt straight up the center of the chuck, and they tend to be tight as hell... BUT you have to clean and Clean and CLEAN first to even see them usually... Go ahead and spray degreasing agent (I don't recommend acetone here, personally) while the chuck is wide open on the drill... WD-40 is reasonable, and won't deteriorate the table or your face should there be backspray... BUT I've generally been reasonably lucky with Simple Green or Purple Power (Advance Auto or Auto-Zone are good sources... along with the PB Blaster) and HOT water, a "throw away" tooth brush will also help if the chuck is large enough...
Alternatively (and for smaller chucks) you can pop by any store with a craft section for pipe-cleaners (those wirey fuzzy things kids make silly crap out of at school) and those can be twisted together or manually formed to shapes for reaching in and swabbing out before going through the migraine-induction of cotton swabs.
Once cleaned out, you should be able to tell what type of bolt is holding this thing in place with a decent flashlight... shine right up the chuck and look... with luck it's still got enough of the head to show phillips or allen or even hexagonal shape for a tool to reach and "grab"... THEN it's as simple as a pipe-wrench on the chuck itself or some means to "lock" the pulleys-end of the shaft in position to extract the bolt...
BUT you may decide that cleaning the chuck out was good enough, and move on without too much fuss.
2. SOME (in my dubious experience only a few) chucks were clamped onto the shaft with a "set-screw" which will usually be an allen-driven bolt directly in the side of the chuck. These are almost always painfully obvious, since the bolt shows on the side of the chuck or a base-coller... To reference the video, there's a collar on Kats-Moses' drill-press right above his chuck, but it's there to protect shaft, and to help with re-installing or upgrading the chuck in size... The black dot on the side of it is probably the same kind of allen-drive bolt I'm talking about, and looks similar enough that you can understand what I'm talking about.
IF your Press DOES have an "end-bolt", you can now understand a new importance for NOT "bottoming out" drill bits in the thing when working... Of course, a dab of silicone can help protect the bolt, too... but regular maintenance and checking up on it is also important... It's easy for bits being shoved into wood and other materials to beat on those bolts, and that's probably why the friction-fit method became as popular as it is...
In any case, if you don't see the obvious allen bolt sticking out the side of the chuck... I'd sprits away with the PB Blaster and start banging, myself... Being easy AND using a proper mallet rather than a hardened metal hammer is going to serve you well, and they do make these for WORK... so it's not exactly a china doll. Relax, breathe, and carry on.
I believe you can get there from here. ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 thank you for an amazing answer and taking the time to explain. This will benefit me and hopefully many others!
@@rhuynh Only glad to see it might help... I've refurbished a few old tools... and it can get beyond frustrating.
Everyone is ALWAYS welcome! ;o)
1:36 you're welcome
DO NOT REMOVE A COLLARED CHUCK LIKE THIS DUDE DID. IT MUST BE UNTHREADED, WHICH WILL POP THE TAPER FOR YOU. DO NOT CHECK RUNOUT WITH SOME RANDOM ARBOR SHAFT EITHER.
OMG! I can't believe he really did that!
And NEVER tighten a v-belt like that! It''s way too tight.
My, what a smooth shaft you have there.
Shut yo mouth
Jus talkin' bout shaft...
...but we can dig it....
Great... I almost wasted nearly two minutes of my life while watching you place Nicholas Cage around the shop. Thank goodness for fast forward!!
Sorry the free content I made didn’t meet your expectations /s
1:17 hahahahahha😂
Geez! Dude! You are breaking all the rules! And not in a good way. Wow 😳
💯😎👍👍🍕🍺
Smooth shaft, eh? Sorry, but I’m gonna have to report ya, guy.
😂😂
First, I don’t need to hear you laugh at yourself with Nicolas Cage, things. What a waste of time then when you do start showing us something you do it super fast and don’t say a word not the best teaching technique I’ve seen I really wanted to learn something from you, I didn’t or at least not as much as I could have with some decent verbal explanation of what you were doing either before or as you were doing it doing it.
Nicholas Gauge? Dear god man, that was awful. I’ve asked people to leave my house for jokes like that. Please vacate the internet, and do not interact with any other humans.
Bahahaha you need to watch more Shaun Boyd videos if you think that's bad
5:44 Sorry, but i can't unsee what you are doing here.. And you are FILMING this. How do you not go get a wrench or a socket? I know you have great tips to share, and I am going to watch this and take something out of it. but wow, that really hurts the credibililty of your expertise with me.