Really want to build 9 inch diffs front/rear for my 79 bronco with 429 c6 and 203/205 doubler . Do you think these axles would be adequate with 40" tire?
That axle is really cool! I can’t wait to see how your new front end performs on the trail. I have been trying to decide whether to do radius arms or a 3 link on my Tacoma.
FYI the Spidertrax unit bearings are 99-04. The 05 and up ford unit bearings are much larger starting out at 35 spline. the 99-04 are originally 30 spline that are bored out to 35 spline
I'm currently limited to right around 40ish degrees because the axle yokes bind and the tires get into the links. In the future I may pay to have the shafts milled out and put bends into the lower links
I’m building a square body suburban. I know Chevy stuff but I just went down the ford rabbit hole recently. So I’m probably gonna go and get me a high pinion 44 and buy a 9 inch housing off summit for the rear. I never knew anything about high pinions but now that I do I wanna do high pinions front and back on my burb just because there’s so much you can do with these and how easy they are to build. I wanna do a Jana D50 in the front and a hi 9 in the rear. I’m assuming I can stick on a 14 bolt flange on the rear and run a full float axle shaft in the back. My burb isn’t a rock crawler I’m just building a overlander and intend to lift it little and stuff 35’s/37’s on it. The parts and modular design for these axles are crazy and I think they’ll be the perfect first dabble in fabrication/axle setup.
It is expensive compared to a junkyard Dana 60 swap. If you consider the cost of gears lockers, bearings etc. being the same regardless what axle you build, this style is still only slightly more expensive but you get a stronger/lighter axle
@@RecklessWrenchGarage yeah as long as they are the deformed type. Built many of these and driver is the only way. Nylock.is junk and none locking will come off.
How are you liking those Wilwood brakes calipers on the front? I'm thinking of going with those 4 piston or upgrading to 6 piston for my swap but my truck is a light toyota pickup single cab
They have worked great honestly! I did just pick up some 6 piston wildwood to test out. Going to move the 4 piston to the rear axle. Haven't been able to try them both and compare them
Do you think that an axle like this would be able to handle 1000HP from a turbocharged 5.3L LS? Looking at building a lightweight 4x4 tube chassis vehicle.
1000 hp is too much for the differential. The housing and knuckles would be alright. For that much HP you would need a 10 inch differential from gear works or tube works and 40 spline axles
@RecklessWrenchGarage Thanks, I thought that something would have to give, just didn't know where it would be. Figured I might want to get an idea before I start sinking money into the build. I already found a suitable Built Transmission, Transfer Case, and Chassis. Still need to find a 1000HP capable Driveshaft, and Brakes.
I have 35 spline shafts and the Yukon joints and my dumbass forgot I even ordered the full circle shafts..guess what didnt get installed 😆.. Those axle seals are a major win... How many new curse words did you come up with hahaha
The weakest point of this setup would be the yoke ears of the axle shaft. RCVs wouldn't fit in these early design spidertrax knuckles, so this was the strongest option
@@RecklessWrenchGarage Thanks for the prompt reply im in australia and looking at my options for a nissan patrol ive just been reading up on what the rock bouncers are doing with dana 80s but like yourself im wanting light if i can. I have some aam 3500 diffs here but i cant believe how heavy they are and i would be up for carli ball joints they would be 11 or 1200aus shipped its a big investment
Machined out the center of ur wheel to fit those hub lockers? Will that cause the lug holes to be too thin from the center? Any danger doing that for a daily driver?
@@RecklessWrenchGarage Im buikding a 2015 Yukon XL with a Duramax and Allison. Have a sick set of $4,400 custom 22" wheels and I will ha e to do a solid front axle to fit the Duramax. The custom set nor the factory wheels have enough opening for even a Dana 44 manual hubs. Considering doing a large tube 44 and machining the wheels just a bit. Id never be able to opening them up to fit 1 ton hubs.. Whats the point. Its a mall crawler anyways.. Need 4wd to vef oug of a wet yard. :) Im a DIY guy.. Love ur videos
I have been thinking about doing a video on building a budget 609, would you be interested in that? It's very dependent on the parts you use. If you go hi 9 the third member is expensive, but you can save money assembling it yourself, or you could use a standard 9 inch third and save even more money, but lose high pinion. This axle also used spidertrax knuckles which are very expensive, but also the strongest on the market. You can use standard dana 60 knuckles and inner c from a junkyard and save money there too. I have about $4k into this axle hub to hub with third member. I think I could build a budget one for under 2500.
@@gusamaya2934 my 609 parts maybe different from yours i got the front f450 steering knucles free from my neighbor but have 950 for tge ruff stuff 9 housing 1250 for the 9inch 3rd with 513s and detroit locker havent got axle shafts or inner cs i plan on usining reid racing cs and custom rcv shafts
It sounds like you have a good plan on your axle and it should be super beefy! My only issue with the ruffstuff housing is the center section is very big and can be hard to package on certain chassis. I think Im going to try and build a budget 609 using as much from the junkyard as possible and set the width to use stock axle shafts
I collected parts for over year, so keep in mind this was not a purchase made all at once. Everything came together right around 3k. Not cheap but any means, but compared to a crate axle or building a salvaged axle, this was a good deal.
Hey guys. I didnt know how to message you without adding a big comment, but I recently purchased a project truck (on road only). Its a '79 Ford F150 single cab long bed. It has a 302 and a NP435 transmission. It also has a Ford 9"rear end and not sure of the ratio in it yet. But it sat for 10 years under a tin roof in Florida. When I bought it, it didn't run or have brakes. I've owned it for 3 weeks now and it runs and has a completely new brake system. I dropped the gas tank on it because of rust holes. I have a new tank and sending unit, but am waiting for the vent valve seal. I've never had a project like this before and it's a great learning experience. But I wanted to get a limited slip diff for it, but not sure who makes the best ones. Since you guys do a lot of torque inducing stuff, what is the best diff you've found for on road use?
Chris, man that is sexy. I bet you have a new screen saver. That would almost make a Jeep cool. Thanks for another great vid. I have officially started building my off road toy. It's a 2016 can am maverick. I started with a cage chop. It is taking a while, now I can relate a bit more to how long projects can take. I've got a forum link if you want to follow along and offer input.
Yeah some projects take a while! This axle slowly got assembled over the course of a few months. We prefer to just make a single video of project so you get the start and finish in a single episode. Drop the link to your build, we always like seeing what our subscribers build!
@@RecklessWrenchGarage I understand, it's good to see it all in one video. You should see how excited I get when you guys drop a new video! www.maverickforums.net/threads/blitzins-2016-max-build.121834/#post-1603717
from the beating to the assemble , om gosh was that painful to watch. But I made it 1/4 through the video. Why do people think you need shitty music when not narrating?
What do you guys think of the new axle in the Ranger? Who is ready for the 3 link and shakedown run? 🙋♂️
Been waiting to see the 3 link. Can't wait for the shakedown run!
Really want to build 9 inch diffs front/rear for my 79 bronco with 429 c6 and 203/205 doubler . Do you think these axles would be adequate with 40" tire?
These will be plenty for 40s, but get 35 spline chromoly axle shafts
That axle is really cool! I can’t wait to see how your new front end performs on the trail. I have been trying to decide whether to do radius arms or a 3 link on my Tacoma.
I am excited to have a direct radius arm vs 3 link comparison. I plan to do a comparison video
Excellent build and you can tell your editing is getting better with each episode. Keep up the good work.
That's so sweet . Great job
FYI the Spidertrax unit bearings are 99-04. The 05 and up ford unit bearings are much larger starting out at 35 spline. the 99-04 are originally 30 spline that are bored out to 35 spline
That's really a dream axle! 50 degrees is gonna be rad
I'm currently limited to right around 40ish degrees because the axle yokes bind and the tires get into the links. In the future I may pay to have the shafts milled out and put bends into the lower links
I cant wait to get my truck done
I’m still living through you guys on these fabricated housings.
Maybe my next build will be lucky enough. HOLY CRAP THE WEIGHT DIFFERENCES.
Love it! I built a diamond 609 for my rear and want to do a front one day!
Can’t wait to see your 80 get done!!
🤙 Nice man. You shouldn't have any reliability worries with that beast. Definitely a nice build
Daaaamn dude. That’s some buggy shit right there. 👌
So fricken sick! That axle is badass!!
She gonna be a stout unit. Wish we had that stuff in New Zealand
I’m building a square body suburban. I know Chevy stuff but I just went down the ford rabbit hole recently. So I’m probably gonna go and get me a high pinion 44 and buy a 9 inch housing off summit for the rear. I never knew anything about high pinions but now that I do I wanna do high pinions front and back on my burb just because there’s so much you can do with these and how easy they are to build. I wanna do a Jana D50 in the front and a hi 9 in the rear. I’m assuming I can stick on a 14 bolt flange on the rear and run a full float axle shaft in the back. My burb isn’t a rock crawler I’m just building a overlander and intend to lift it little and stuff 35’s/37’s on it. The parts and modular design for these axles are crazy and I think they’ll be the perfect first dabble in fabrication/axle setup.
Wow badass axle. Way out of my price range
It is expensive compared to a junkyard Dana 60 swap. If you consider the cost of gears lockers, bearings etc. being the same regardless what axle you build, this style is still only slightly more expensive but you get a stronger/lighter axle
Dream axle build right there. Very cool guys came out great!
Nice! At least your knuckles came with the caliper bracket already welded
Little less work lol they usually don’t come like that
Make sure you put stover locking nuts on the knuckle bearing bolts.
Thanks for the heads up, the nuts are the "c" type locking nuts
BTW we want to get up CO and do some wheeling sometime
@@RecklessWrenchGarage yeah as long as they are the deformed type. Built many of these and driver is the only way. Nylock.is junk and none locking will come off.
How are you liking those Wilwood brakes calipers on the front? I'm thinking of going with those 4 piston or upgrading to 6 piston for my swap but my truck is a light toyota pickup single cab
They have worked great honestly! I did just pick up some 6 piston wildwood to test out. Going to move the 4 piston to the rear axle. Haven't been able to try them both and compare them
Why didn't you use the Spidertrax unit bearings? They are very compact.
Weird to see non-vented front brakes. Axle looks sick!
Yeah the solid rotors are weird, I'll do an update video in the future about the brakes
I need to buy the case, where can I buy it? Send me a link
Could you make that new walk around on your ranger on all the new stuff you've got?
It's coming soon, we promise!
that steel looks mild steel made. is this enough comparing common cast iron ?
Do you think that an axle like this would be able to handle 1000HP from a turbocharged 5.3L LS? Looking at building a lightweight 4x4 tube chassis vehicle.
1000 hp is too much for the differential. The housing and knuckles would be alright. For that much HP you would need a 10 inch differential from gear works or tube works and 40 spline axles
@RecklessWrenchGarage Thanks, I thought that something would have to give, just didn't know where it would be. Figured I might want to get an idea before I start sinking money into the build. I already found a suitable Built Transmission, Transfer Case, and Chassis. Still need to find a 1000HP capable Driveshaft, and Brakes.
How much stronger are they than stock ?
I have 35 spline shafts and the Yukon joints and my dumbass forgot I even ordered the full circle shafts..guess what didnt get installed 😆.. Those axle seals are a major win... How many new curse words did you come up with hahaha
Well, I had to cut about 3 min of video because it would have been censor beep overload 🤣
@@RecklessWrenchGarage 😂😂😂 great for a bloopers video lol
@@RecklessWrenchGarage he's got a point lol
Have these u joints broken before im wondering if rcv cv's would be stronger
The weakest point of this setup would be the yoke ears of the axle shaft. RCVs wouldn't fit in these early design spidertrax knuckles, so this was the strongest option
@@RecklessWrenchGarage Thanks for the prompt reply im in australia and looking at my options for a nissan patrol ive just been reading up on what the rock bouncers are doing with dana 80s but like yourself im wanting light if i can. I have some aam 3500 diffs here but i cant believe how heavy they are and i would be up for carli ball joints they would be 11 or 1200aus shipped its a big investment
Machined out the center of ur wheel to fit those hub lockers? Will that cause the lug holes to be too thin from the center? Any danger doing that for a daily driver?
The wheels are not machined out they are still how they came from the manufacturer, most wheels should come with a hub opening big enough
@@RecklessWrenchGarage Im buikding a 2015 Yukon XL with a Duramax and Allison. Have a sick set of $4,400 custom 22" wheels and I will ha e to do a solid front axle to fit the Duramax. The custom set nor the factory wheels have enough opening for even a Dana 44 manual hubs. Considering doing a large tube 44 and machining the wheels just a bit. Id never be able to opening them up to fit 1 ton hubs.. Whats the point. Its a mall crawler anyways.. Need 4wd to vef oug of a wet yard. :)
Im a DIY guy.. Love ur videos
What tube diameter and wall thickness are the axle tubes?
225.68lbs without anything except the steering knuckles and the actual axle housing itself. (will edit this later to see if I was right or wrong.)
Slightly modified bolt-ons. Good thing you'll be making a customer 3 link or else I'll have to go back to those jku builds.
Im saving for a front 609 and rear super 14 bolt for my 4runner
I want to save for a 609 also. Do you any idea on the price, ballpark? I don’t know how much more I’m going to need.
I have been thinking about doing a video on building a budget 609, would you be interested in that? It's very dependent on the parts you use. If you go hi 9 the third member is expensive, but you can save money assembling it yourself, or you could use a standard 9 inch third and save even more money, but lose high pinion. This axle also used spidertrax knuckles which are very expensive, but also the strongest on the market. You can use standard dana 60 knuckles and inner c from a junkyard and save money there too. I have about $4k into this axle hub to hub with third member. I think I could build a budget one for under 2500.
@@gusamaya2934 my 609 parts maybe different from yours i got the front f450 steering knucles free from my neighbor but have 950 for tge ruff stuff 9 housing 1250 for the 9inch 3rd with 513s and detroit locker havent got axle shafts or inner cs i plan on usining reid racing cs and custom rcv shafts
@@RecklessWrenchGarage that would be amazing
It sounds like you have a good plan on your axle and it should be super beefy! My only issue with the ruffstuff housing is the center section is very big and can be hard to package on certain chassis. I think Im going to try and build a budget 609 using as much from the junkyard as possible and set the width to use stock axle shafts
What was your total cost for the build?
I collected parts for over year, so keep in mind this was not a purchase made all at once. Everything came together right around 3k. Not cheap but any means, but compared to a crate axle or building a salvaged axle, this was a good deal.
True, best route was collecting parts needed for an upgrade.
@@RecklessWrenchGarage Not bad at all. I have $4.5k in to my junk yard king pin Dana 60 (but with RCVs)
RecklessWrenchGarage tbh that’s cheaper than I expected
Hey guys. I didnt know how to message you without adding a big comment, but I recently purchased a project truck (on road only). Its a '79 Ford F150 single cab long bed. It has a 302 and a NP435 transmission. It also has a Ford 9"rear end and not sure of the ratio in it yet. But it sat for 10 years under a tin roof in Florida. When I bought it, it didn't run or have brakes. I've owned it for 3 weeks now and it runs and has a completely new brake system. I dropped the gas tank on it because of rust holes. I have a new tank and sending unit, but am waiting for the vent valve seal. I've never had a project like this before and it's a great learning experience. But I wanted to get a limited slip diff for it, but not sure who makes the best ones. Since you guys do a lot of torque inducing stuff, what is the best diff you've found for on road use?
Chris, man that is sexy. I bet you have a new screen saver. That would almost make a Jeep cool.
Thanks for another great vid.
I have officially started building my off road toy. It's a 2016 can am maverick. I started with a cage chop. It is taking a while, now I can relate a bit more to how long projects can take.
I've got a forum link if you want to follow along and offer input.
Yeah some projects take a while! This axle slowly got assembled over the course of a few months. We prefer to just make a single video of project so you get the start and finish in a single episode.
Drop the link to your build, we always like seeing what our subscribers build!
@@RecklessWrenchGarage
I understand, it's good to see it all in one video. You should see how excited I get when you guys drop a new video!
www.maverickforums.net/threads/blitzins-2016-max-build.121834/#post-1603717
from the beating to the assemble , om gosh was that painful to watch. But I made it 1/4 through the video. Why do people think you need shitty music when not narrating?
The same reason why they invented volume knobs and the same reason why people feel the need to leave shitty comments.
thats booful