I like the front loader which dumps, and the box blade you have on the rear. The way you can tilt the box blade from the cab really impressed me, and I would love to have a machine like that around my place. You all must love that tractor and it is giving you all great service.
I see you have the 4 in 1 bucket also. Mine bent on the sides the first time I picked up a tree. The dealer picked it back up and welded strips of steel, probably about 3/8" thick on the sides along the sawtooths. Haven't had a problem since.
I have a 2015 4066R. I have dual pairs of quick connects on the back fender, plus power beyond for the backhoe, and a separate single quick connect by the hitch. I control the dual pairs with a couple rods above the fender on that hydraulic control box that stick out forward towards the cab seat. That is what I use to control anything on the rear hitch that also has hydraulic connections. I was unaware the front switch on the right fender can switch control to the joystick. But the joystick would be a problem if you're standing beside the tractor running a stump grinder, etc. Maybe mine does both. I will have to check. I also have the downforce kit, which is plumbed directly into quick connects installed inside the back hitch area. This is controlled by a switch on the fender. We have the same tractor but seem to have totally different configurations on the hydraulic setup.
When you say you flip that switch to change the joystick from the front to the rear what exactly is it controlling in the rear? The lift or other hydraulic connections?
The rear has three sets of hydraulic control and depending on what attachment I have in the rear they will operate different things. On the box scraper it gives me pan/tilt/rip so I can pitch it front and back or tilt it left or right and then I have ripped up and down control. Basically you don’t have to get out of the tractor to move anything you can adjust on the fly
I completed a tractor size worksheet and for a 12 acre farm growing a variety of crops and using a variety of attachments, it recommended a 70hp tractor. Do you think the 4066 is overkill? I was really leaning towards a 3046 with cab and spacers. Any general recommendations would be appreciated.
From Dusk To Dawn before I ordered this tractor my dealer was nice enough to drop off a 4066r that was one of their lease out tractors. They let me test it for three days to make sure it was a good fit for me on my property. I will say that one of my requirements was it had to have more horsepower than it does traction, basically I wanted to make sure even with a full load in the box scrapper and the tractor in 4 wheel drive that I wouldn't bog the motor when pulling dirt uphill. The 4066r will endlessly spin the tires in first through fourth gear if you wanted it to. So to answer your question I would say the tractor is slightly overpowered for earth moving attachments but with things like a deck mower or a rototiller the 66hp is only sufficient. I live in the hills with lots of squirrel holes/mounds and occasionally in some areas very thick weeds. The dirt mounds from the squirrels will drop the RPM's from 2600 to 1500 in about two seconds time but the engine does recover quite quickly after it clears out. My neighbor has a 4044r so same tractor smaller engine and I noticed the final drive gear ratio is way lower on his with the smaller horsepower. My opinion is any size tractor will do the job it's just how long do you want to be sitting on the tractor. In grading a road I would say my 66hp is over twice as fast to go the same amount of work as the 44hp. If you want to know anything specific let me know
Your rear control power is awesome. I didn't know they made a box blade that had power drop rippers. What is the lift capacity on your loader? Thanks for sharing.
steven castillo the box blade with hydraulics was a upgrade but it is all John Deere parts. The front loader is rated to 2200lbs. The tractor is capable of lifting a wet heaping load of dirt in the front bucket before it overloads the hydraulic.
Thanks for posting your reviews of your 4066R. I want to purchase the same machine with the top and tilt link hydraulics. Do the hoses rub on components as the hitch is raised and lowered? The 4066R I looked at appeared that there would not be enough clearance and they would get pinched.
Tobias Chislett when we ordered this tractor we went back and fourth with a cab or no cab. Basically I was told I could order the exact tractor but with the cab. So yes I believe you can get the power reverser with the cab. It was about $7000 more for the cab from my dealer so we opted out on this tractor.
Yes I ordered the canopy when I bought the tractor. It is a John Deere item. The canopy is totally worth the money, it keeps the sun and rain off the operator quite well.
Jeff I recently purchased a new 4066R, how did you install the rear hydraulics and make them work with your joystick? My dealer is only offering the kit that mounts to the ROPs and has 2 levers.
I had my dealer install the hydraulics but all of the parts were John Deere. My dealer said he could have the ROPS mounted valves made for less if I wanted but it would be aftermarket products. Probably what your dealer is trying to do. It's a kit though that was installed on mine so it had the valve for the third control and the diverters for the front or rear option. Sorry I don't know more. If your dealer needs a picture of something for parts reference let me know.
Hi Johnny. I'm about 5'7" tall and I am able to use the joystick while keeping my elbow on the arm rest if the seat is in the straight position. If I am grading a road or something that needs a lot of rear attachment adjustment I keep the seat rotated to the right and usually lift the armrest. If you would like a video of the operator control ergonomics I can post one later today.
Mike J - the only issue I have had was the transmission computer software needed an update when I got it. Basically the tranny wasn't communicating with all the safety devices and it would basically put the tractor in neutral at random times. The dealership took it back and did the update and one year later and 240hrs not a single problem. I know a lot of people buy the "leased" used tractors for personal use after farmers beat them up for a year or two and have problems but mine was brand new built to order and I'm not even close to being wealthy but this tractor was worth every penny. And just so no one asks later I get no deals or discounts from John Deere nor do I even know anyone who works for the company. I am just a honest homeowner who was scared to spend the money on this machine until I got it home and realized how priceless it is to me. If your looking at other models I would recommend staying away from any of the "E" series tractors. The E stands for economy and they definitely use lower quality parts. Also the tractor has a bumper to bumper two year warranty and a six year on the drivetrain so anyone complaining that the machine is a piece of junk should have been on the phone with the dealer to come fix it to your liking and make it operate as it supposed to.
That is an awesome set up. What a beast of a tractor.
I like the front loader which dumps, and the box blade you have on the rear. The way you can tilt the box blade from the cab really impressed me, and I would love to have a machine like that around my place. You all must love that tractor and it is giving you all great service.
excellent tractor, thanks for the review. with that ripper/box scraper you must be able to grade really nice. really nice attachment
Exactly what I'm currently looking to purchase. Thanks !!!
I see you have the 4 in 1 bucket also. Mine bent on the sides the first time I picked up a tree. The dealer picked it back up and welded strips of steel, probably about 3/8" thick on the sides along the sawtooths. Haven't had a problem since.
I have a 2015 4066R. I have dual pairs of quick connects on the back fender, plus power beyond for the backhoe, and a separate single quick connect by the hitch. I control the dual pairs with a couple rods above the fender on that hydraulic control box that stick out forward towards the cab seat. That is what I use to control anything on the rear hitch that also has hydraulic connections. I was unaware the front switch on the right fender can switch control to the joystick. But the joystick would be a problem if you're standing beside the tractor running a stump grinder, etc. Maybe mine does both. I will have to check. I also have the downforce kit, which is plumbed directly into quick connects installed inside the back hitch area. This is controlled by a switch on the fender. We have the same tractor but seem to have totally different configurations on the hydraulic setup.
Love your tractor good job everybody
I love my 4052M power reverser don't have near the options you do but if feels like a tractor double its size!
Next week I am ordering do you have any useful advise to give I will be thankful
When you say you flip that switch to change the joystick from the front to the rear what exactly is it controlling in the rear? The lift or other hydraulic connections?
The rear has three sets of hydraulic control and depending on what attachment I have in the rear they will operate different things. On the box scraper it gives me pan/tilt/rip so I can pitch it front and back or tilt it left or right and then I have ripped up and down control. Basically you don’t have to get out of the tractor to move anything you can adjust on the fly
I completed a tractor size worksheet and for a 12 acre farm growing a variety of crops and using a variety of attachments, it recommended a 70hp tractor. Do you think the 4066 is overkill? I was really leaning towards a 3046 with cab and spacers. Any general recommendations would be appreciated.
From Dusk To Dawn before I ordered this tractor my dealer was nice enough to drop off a 4066r that was one of their lease out tractors. They let me test it for three days to make sure it was a good fit for me on my property. I will say that one of my requirements was it had to have more horsepower than it does traction, basically I wanted to make sure even with a full load in the box scrapper and the tractor in 4 wheel drive that I wouldn't bog the motor when pulling dirt uphill. The 4066r will endlessly spin the tires in first through fourth gear if you wanted it to. So to answer your question I would say the tractor is slightly overpowered for earth moving attachments but with things like a deck mower or a rototiller the 66hp is only sufficient. I live in the hills with lots of squirrel holes/mounds and occasionally in some areas very thick weeds. The dirt mounds from the squirrels will drop the RPM's from 2600 to 1500 in about two seconds time but the engine does recover quite quickly after it clears out. My neighbor has a 4044r so same tractor smaller engine and I noticed the final drive gear ratio is way lower on his with the smaller horsepower. My opinion is any size tractor will do the job it's just how long do you want to be sitting on the tractor. In grading a road I would say my 66hp is over twice as fast to go the same amount of work as the 44hp. If you want to know anything specific let me know
Your rear control power is awesome. I didn't know they made a box blade that had power drop rippers. What is the lift capacity on your loader? Thanks for sharing.
steven castillo the box blade with hydraulics was a upgrade but it is all John Deere parts. The front loader is rated to 2200lbs. The tractor is capable of lifting a wet heaping load of dirt in the front bucket before it overloads the hydraulic.
Where is the fuel gauge located on the 4066R
I'd like a video from the joy stick side with you in the seat with it back n all the forward thanks Johnny
Thanks for posting your reviews of your 4066R. I want to purchase the same machine with the top and tilt link hydraulics. Do the hoses rub on components as the hitch is raised and lowered? The 4066R I looked at appeared that there would not be enough clearance and they would get pinched.
Jeff Schremser hey Jeff I put up a video for you. Let me know if this answers your question thorough enough. ua-cam.com/video/emr45r9KNwo/v-deo.html
Can you get a factory cab with the PowerReverser trans? Would be great to know!
Tobias Chislett when we ordered this tractor we went back and fourth with a cab or no cab. Basically I was told I could order the exact tractor but with the cab. So yes I believe you can get the power reverser with the cab. It was about $7000 more for the cab from my dealer so we opted out on this tractor.
Did the canopy come with your tractor? I need one for my JD 4044
Yes I ordered the canopy when I bought the tractor. It is a John Deere item. The canopy is totally worth the money, it keeps the sun and rain off the operator quite well.
Jeff I recently purchased a new 4066R, how did you install the rear hydraulics and make them work with your joystick? My dealer is only offering the kit that mounts to the ROPs and has 2 levers.
I said Jeff but meant Matt....
I had my dealer install the hydraulics but all of the parts were John Deere. My dealer said he could have the ROPS mounted valves made for less if I wanted but it would be aftermarket products. Probably what your dealer is trying to do. It's a kit though that was installed on mine so it had the valve for the third control and the diverters for the front or rear option. Sorry I don't know more. If your dealer needs a picture of something for parts reference let me know.
thinking about buying a 4066 just wondering how you like the joy stick control and can you rest your arm on the armrest while using it thanks Johnny
Hi Johnny. I'm about 5'7" tall and I am able to use the joystick while keeping my elbow on the arm rest if the seat is in the straight position. If I am grading a road or something that needs a lot of rear attachment adjustment I keep the seat rotated to the right and usually lift the armrest. If you would like a video of the operator control ergonomics I can post one later today.
RUSS44 I'm new to UA-cam. Think I posted the comment wrong. See below comment for my response.
Did you get the wheel weights from the John Deere dealer?
M 6706 yes I did get them from John Deere. I ordered them when I ordered the tractor. They are a factory part.
What size of tires does that thing have?
How ya like the power reverser?
I love it. Sure does save my knees from not having to use the brakes as much.
Have you had any problems with it?
Mike J - the only issue I have had was the transmission computer software needed an update when I got it. Basically the tranny wasn't communicating with all the safety devices and it would basically put the tractor in neutral at random times. The dealership took it back and did the update and one year later and 240hrs not a single problem. I know a lot of people buy the "leased" used tractors for personal use after farmers beat them up for a year or two and have problems but mine was brand new built to order and I'm not even close to being wealthy but this tractor was worth every penny. And just so no one asks later I get no deals or discounts from John Deere nor do I even know anyone who works for the company. I am just a honest homeowner who was scared to spend the money on this machine until I got it home and realized how priceless it is to me. If your looking at other models I would recommend staying away from any of the "E" series tractors. The E stands for economy and they definitely use lower quality parts. Also the tractor has a bumper to bumper two year warranty and a six year on the drivetrain so anyone complaining that the machine is a piece of junk should have been on the phone with the dealer to come fix it to your liking and make it operate as it supposed to.
Thanks for getting back with me.
Nice review Matt. Thanks
What diameter tree can you pick up
What hp?
Blake Dehart it's a 66 horse. If I remember correct it has 110-120 ft lbs of torque
супер трактор
Juris Rafalko Спасибо.
I have the same tractor and had nothing but problems...horrible machine so far
“Ruff”