Don't waste your energy on the negative comments. Those people are probably having a hard time with life. Surround your selves with positive people which will boost your energy to carry on to over come problems. Some one or some thing will always turn up when you need a solution. Im older and have always had projects and it has always amazed me looking back at how things come together. Im retired and love watching you tube to inspire, invigorate, and energise me to carry on with my projects. I thank you for doing that to me. You guys are an awesome watch.
It looks like your basically on the right track. You have learnt a great deal about your beautiful vessel and what's involved in restoring an old riveted steel ship that has been sadly neglected for many years. So for now the aim is to make her water tight, get her back in the water, replenish your resources and find the right yard to undertake what has now become an extensive hull repair project. Working with what you've got, concentrate on descaling the wind and water line to a high standard and apply the best marine paint system available.. I have had great success with Jotamastic 90. For the rest of the hull remove all loose coatings, patch up where necessary and apply a holding coat to the whole hull below the wind and water line. The utmost CRUCIAL measure you must take is to ensure that your cathodic protection (zinc anodes) is up to the task, routinely monitored and well maintained. Good Luck!!!
There will always be negative posts .... ignore them ! You guys are doing the impossible ... and that is more than interesting. Thanks for taking us with you.
Have you looked into dry ice blasting? It works well and leaves no residue. Also consider surface tolerant epoxies for a coating, such as Euronavy ES301k or some similar coatings for marginal preparation or heavily rusted surfaces. Good luck
I dont know if either of you follow any philosophers but I think you'd have been applauded by them all. For two highly organised, diligent and analytical people to knowingly thrust themselves into the chaos of an ancient steel boat transformation is a great commitment to life's meaning. Such a tough and delightful passion project is a wonderful obstacle to overcome. This can only lead to success - whatever the outcome.
Brilliant inspired and excellent video editing. Tall-Ho standard but IMHO even better. Unkown but not sure if needle gun would be better in some of the areas you used the new tool.
Your comment put a big smile on my face, I read it out loud to Barbara and I go a "Yahoo" back 👍Thank you! To answer your question, the Tercoo works with the same principle a needle gun does. The hard metal pins are hitting the surface and hammering off paint and rust. It's quieter, the final finish is better and it's better for DIY since you don't need a compressor. But it's also heavier and it's tricky to get into the voids and the corners.
Having used needle-guns, those rotating tools & grit blasting. Number one is grit blasting Number 2 is a needle gun & those rotating tools would be last. I don't know why they wouldn't let you use wet grit blasting it doesn't produce dust. The real expensive way that big ship yards use is hydro blasting at 40k to 60k psi with a machine that actually crawls along the hull with a big vacuum system attached as well, removes all paint and rust.
I think it's a matter of choice if you prefer the Tercoo or the needle gun. There are upsides and downsides to both machines. Also Tercoo themselves say that they are an alternative to blasting if one can't blast or doesn't want to blast. I think wet sandblasting would've been allowed in the shipyard but there was a misunderstanding because they thought I was talking about hydrojet blasting. Then they said, they tried it once but got multiple complains because the rust was flying all over the town. That robot machine sounds interesting but you forgot that when entering Urk you also travel through time and land in the 1920s.
I agree. Waiting for the best method, money, and or paint is something that never happenes. As you said, do the best you can now and keep reviewing options as they and needs arise.
It's all about priorities and in this situation the most important thing was to to get back into the water and also to recharge the batteries. At this point Daniel could hardly walk. Next up is to get everything done to renew the CVO and then we can focus on anything else. Thank you for your comment!
I agree with your method of work. This is real life and you want to get Flying Coney in the water. You have to do what you can and plan on future work. It is so much work for 2 people but you are making progress.
Great show again - Love your music choice ! Thank you. You guys must be overwhelmed - such a huge project. We see your determination. The F C is coming to life.
Whenever you get to the next phase of sandblasting, look in to "spray-welding" machines, they work like a paint spray gun but spray metal, they are used in a lot of restoration car body repair, they work good for putting a thin layer of real steel on a surface and filling holes. They are expensive but you should be able to rent/lease/hire one of the machines. They cover area pretty fast. Love watching good luck !!!
This rebuild is something to be proud of, not many people would have the gumption to do it ,,,well done..as for the negative Nancy's welcome to UA-cam, absolutely every channel has them , keep up the great job...
Ihr beisst euch prima durch ! Bei unserer 14m Lemsteraak von 1913 haben wir damals hauptsächlich mit hämmern und verschiedenen Rostumwandlern gearbeitet. Das hat recht gut funktioniert...danach 2 Komponenten Zinkgrundierung. Jetzt aber doch glücklich mit schönem klassischem GFK Segler im Mittelmeer. Alles Gute euch !⛵️
Nice to know that others participate in her History...tell us more as you find it. You are both doing some HARD, DIRTY work, but one can feel the ship's welcoming of it all. Have a great week. R
I wouldn't let's people's negative comments bother you. It takes courage and commitment to conquer a project like this one. If only there were more people like you. Thank you for your commitment to this old vessel and piece of history .I wish you well
My humble opinion… you are right on track with your logic… good enough is just right for now. Flying Coney is lucky to have found you. Best wishes on your endeavors
Your doing great ..I really like hearing the history of your boat/ship ...As far as people saying negative things don't let them bother you ...Keep up the hard work
As owner of a steel trawler I think your right about getting done what you can when you can and not worry about perfection, its a constant battle against corrosion and keeping it under control, like the look of the Trecko?
I am still learning to accept that while trying to preserve my classic steel sailing yacht inherited from my grandfather. I consider it good advice 🙂. Cheers to the readers and sharers!
so glad you carried on with flying coney she obviously has a great history and you will get there with what you are doing as you cant use sandblasting which seems silly on a shipyard still your using the right tools for the job and as you say you constantly check up to see the best ways of doing the job and you always pick the right way that tool looks awesome and the right tool for the job as she is so badly pitted above the water line you can get filler paints as you well know which will preserve the hull until you can get her sandblasted or bead blasted which would be better as the needs will get rid of the pitting and then properly painted keep on doing what you are doing as its the right way in your circumstances great video as always looking forward to the next one all the best from John from Rugby UK.
Hi Team , I just want to thank you once again for restoring this old chip/boat without people like yourself, they were just go to the scrapyard and we would never have them again. Thank you once again for all your hard work , Keep up with everything you’re doing Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia from the big island
Your right. All you can do is make it safe and usable until the time comes to do it right. The only way to really save the ship is on the hard, sand blast all ext and int, prep and epoxy coating, anti foaling and finish coating. But first, will this project be worth anything when you are finished. Can you afford this and future work. Can you afford to operate it. I sure hope so because you are wonderful people. I, and I’m sure all of your subscribers wish you all the best. Great channel and God bless you.
Thank you for sharing your huge restoration project! Very impressed! And don't forget that in the end it is your ship and your decisions that matter whatever other "experts" think.
Thank you! One of the reasons why we started this channel is because we wanted to share the experience. It's nothing you see everyday so we thought it might be interesting. But we aslo want to share the knowledge, we've both been sailing teachers for a reason. We also like to share what we know and we do our best to provide you with good informations.
I understand this is quite a tedious undertaking by the shipyard master Cees …He seems to fully understand steel hulls and the never ending challenges with rust.. The best part of it all is that you both will fully know the hull integrity of Flying Coney.. Next, the inside is removed from the critical underwater areas, which creates a new start.. Keep up the good work..
All of the lads in the shipyard did know their stuff but Cees is a real master of his trade. It's not only a job for him it's a true passion. His uncle has a more than 100 year old steel botter and he had also worked on the Gulden Leeuw. A good yard needs a guy like him!
I think you two are great and are real characters, and make this build more fascinating. Personally, l still think that despite all the welding, that this hull in my mind could never be trusted and is not very strong anymore. I admire you both for the determination,very brave or crazy.
It's possible if you rent a blasting tent. But that's more expensive than the blasting itself. The yard is a maintenance shipyard for workboats and one week after we've taken out the ship they banned needle guns. But there are specialized yards for boatbuilding or for bigger jobs. The downside is usually you're not allowed to work on the boat yourself and they are usually more expensive.
Other old steel ships such as Pitcairn Castle they scrape and paint, scrape and paint and its still floating! I think you guys are doing an amazing job on the Flying Coney!
Your intro always make's me laugh when i see the blade shoot out of the Sawzall .And that young man who does your welding is a real Godsend he has a gift and passion for it .I really like how he is willing to teach you the how and why he does what he does .He must have had a great teacher .And that's wonderful news about the history of Fling Coney .I know there will always be critics about how you do things but i want you to know those are very few compared to other people doing Ship or boat repair or restoration .On the 26th of this month i will turn 66 years old but watching you two working on Flying Coney really get's me felling much younger .So much so that i can feel the rolling of one of the boats i used to have and feel the freedom and the excitement of casting off from the dock and looking off into the horizon to find out what is there . when i make my Birthday wish i will add you three into it and ask for you two to see your dream come true .My oldest dream and wish came true 7 years ago A friend of mine had a grand daughter and she was born on the same day i was and she has adopted my as her Great grand pa .her name is Paris .Well gotta go I have birthday presents to buy and other boring things to do .
Dear Logan, Barbara and I are wishing you very happy Birthday. Your many lovely comments always put a smile on our faces and they've not gone unnoticed. Thank you very much. We wish you many years together with Paris and we hope you've celebrated this day with her. There's a famous Austrian song named "Life begins at 66". So we wish you all the best and many healthy years to come! 🎂🎁🎈
What an arduous task I am just full of admiration for how hard you’ve worked. The amount of rust must partly be caused by the very sad state of the anodes. The obviously weren’t attended to you. this story is not only the story of a ship, but of a romance, and it’s not the worst for that.
It takes a lot of effort to set up, shoot, and prepare these videos. Some people will always gravitate towards dumb and nasty in their comments. You guys do a great job on your presentations and need to just ignore the fools. I'll bet there are way more people cheering for your success than you might think. Your welder is worth his weight in gold. Working on old rusty ships is a calling from above since you don't get rich by doing it. Thanks again.
I’ve been watching you and and the ship happens channel and you both have taken on some very big projects. But all in all you are making progress and that’s awesome:) as soon as you get the hull taken care of then the rest of the build we be more enjoyable, or hopefully easier anyway. Keep up the good work👍
I agree with your assesment on doing something is better than nothing. I disagree that applying rust converter could have been skipped. It it's something you could easily spray or roll on and then the paint would adhere better to the surface and any damage to the outer paint might not lead to huge rust blisters forming. Just my opinion but I also don't have a giant steel boat to think about.
We never THOUGHT that applying rust converter could have been skipped. We thought let's get rid of the rust on the waterline to check if they're some pinholes. Also we didn't wanted to paint directly over rust. The next thing I know was that there was 2k zinc primer applied. Of course the perfectionism kicked in and we did our best to get a sandblasting like finish. Tercoo first, CSD Disc second and wire brush last to get into the voids. It's an experiment and let's see how long it'll last.
As a steel boat owner, Tercoo is an absolute Blast :-) My vessel is only 10.80 meters, and I can do most jobs wih the 3 blades that can go in to a normal 230V power drill. You need 3000 RPM so most battery drills do not work. I know all about the horrors of sandblasting so Yes, it is a lifesaver!
Hi Coney Crew, I liked how you were able to work around the restrictions of the shipyard when it came to sandblasting. It did look to work well. Considering the age of the steel, it was probably the better way to go. I enjoyed this video on how the surface was prepped. I liked that the doubler was welded on the inside. It keeps the ship from being covered on the outside with patch work. You are right about only repairing the "have to" parts of the hull which will shorten the time in the shipyard. By dealing with the major integrity components at this time makes the most sense. All boats are under perpetual repair their whole life. As you have always said: get it fixed enough to put it back in the water and that will ease the pressure and cost of moving forward. Great work, it's going forward just fine.👍
We simply "forgot" to put a rust converter on. It was more like, let's do the waterline and the next thing I remember is that there was two component zinc primer on the hull. But we did ou best to get a rust free finish so in theory it should last a few years. But good ol' coke does a good job!
I spent my whole working career making decisions like yours, so I completely understand what you are saying. You know what has to be done, sandblast the hull, but you can't do it where you are. So you do what you can and move on. I probably would have done the exact same thing if I was in the same situation as you. You have the holes in the hull plugged up for now and that is a huge thing. Yes, there may be more in fact when you do get it blasted I can pretty well guarantee that there will be more holes, nature of steel boats and salt water, but you should be good for a year or so. As far as the negative comments go, when you open your life up on youtube there are always going to be trolls. Ignore them and if they continue isn't there a way to block them so they can't comment.
i dont understand your view. This is a public forum, the owners are putting themselves out for public viewing. There is a thumbs up and a thunbs down for a reason. What you are insinuating is there should only be positive comments that support your view. That is strange.
The Terco disks are fantatstic for projects that aren't as big as yours. I used the 3-fold disks to strip the old primer and rust from below the waterline on my 31ft Seahawk, wish I had the "beast" version at that time...
Especially the voids made it tricky for the big Tercoo to shine. But still we got rid of a lot of rust. Especially at the stern there was sometimes a layer of 5mm rust! Now we know that there's no hole behind it and it will last a couple of years. All in all the de rusting and reciting costed about 4 000€. Blasting and completely re coating the outside will be about 30k. Since budget is always limited now it's more important to get the frames and the renewing of the CVO done and then we can focus on cosmetics. It's a good feeling that most of the rust is gone now, I can tell you that!
I’m not sure how much farther along you are in this process from this video but I wanted to mention to you a product we have here in the USA that might be of help to you. This product is called POR15 and it is a type of paint that encapsulates the rust thus stopping it’s progression and dries very hard. It is often used on vehicle frames and such things that are subject to rust. It is black in color and I thought it might work well on the inside of your hull. I hope that soon the two of you are able to stop finding problems and are able to start making gains towards your ultimate goal. Good luck and best wishes. P.S. A quote from Theodore Roosevelt: “Do what you can with what you have where you are at.” You guys are doing great; don’t get discouraged.
Theodore Roosevelt and Lee Hazlewood are the reason why I'm always undecided if I should wear the tipps of my mustache up or down 🤣 Any suggestions? Thanks for the comment!
I have a fair amount of experience with Sandblasting and Metal work. Make sure you use a rust converter before you cover the low areas with filler. I would get advice from other shipyards as well. Not just that shipyard. I personally wouldn't use filler if your planning on sandblasting the ship in the future. It will become a waste of money. Just paint the Haul for now and in the future sandblast it and than use filler to fill the low areas to prep for paint. If that ship was mine, I personally wouldn't sandblast that Ship. I would just paint it. Than repaint it, ever five or ten years. unless you absolutely have to repair new areas.
You'r correct. I wrongly used the term filler paint. It was more like a two component relatively thick primer the yard recommended whenever we striped the hull to bare steel. Also you'r correct on sandblasting, since the ship is riveted and the seams are caulked it's not recommended. Hydrojetblasting or Sodablasting might be possible. Applying no rust converter was probably our biggest mistake but so far no rust is coming through.
Hallo, ich schaue mir eure Geschichte seid einiger Zeit an und nach jedem Video denke ich, das ihr nun zur Vernunft kommt. Aus eigener Erfahrung empfehle ich euch, die Situation ohne Emotionen zu überdenken. Das Schiff zu retten, wird enorme Summen verschlingen. Der Stahl ist ab, der Innenausbau ist raus, und wie die Technik aussieht denke ich mir. Euer Leben wird im Endeffekt nur noch vom Schiff beherrscht, aber nicht im Positiven. Wrackt ab !
Hallo Rüdiger, ich habe mich wirklich bemüht zu erklären warum das Schiff eben nicht schrottreif ist. Es geht nicht um den Zustand vom Schiff sondern darum die geplanten! Arbeiten von einem Jahr unter Zeitdruck zu erledigen wo man jede Woche erschöpfter und müder wird. Deswegen war die Elektrolyse so schlimm. Finanziell reden wir da über 5000€. Technik? Motor ist gut, Hydraulic ist neu, Generator hat fast keine Stunden, Schraube schaut aus wie neu... Wir wissen und wir wussten worauf wir uns bei einem historischen Restaurationsobjekt einlassen, ehrlich gesagt haben wir unterschätzt was es bedeutet in einer Werft zu arbeiten und dann auch noch daneben Videos zu machen. Videos die zu diesem Zeitpunkt kaum Geld eingebracht haben und wo man nie weiß ob das Video jetzt gut ankommt oder nicht. Wir wollen uns da beide keine Gedanken über eine Entscheidung machen die wir schon längst getroffen haben. Vor allem, wie stellst du dir das mit dem Abwraken vor? So oder so müssen wir zurück ins Wasser... Dann kann man sich überlegen ob es weitergeht oder nicht. (Nur um das klarzustellen wir sind zurück im Wasser und es geht weiter.)
I suggest that the amount of time, energy and money you spend on your ship will depend on the enð use you intend to put her to. The first, and probably the most economical one would be to use her in combination with a small business as a historical ship to charge admission to, in which case the emphasis on repairs should be on the cosmetic elements only. If you are planning to use her for long sea voyages then there's no way that I would be putting my faith in those rusting old plates and I would have to totally remove and replace them while paying careful attention to the frames behind them because I suspect that many of them are severely damaged by corrosion as well. Sorry to be the bearer of such a hard appraisal but I assume that you are wanting only my honest opinion on the matter. Good luck!
The needle gun is the best solution for pitted metal when you cannot use any blasting. I wonder if you could use body filler like is used on automobiles that is not Bondo to fill in the pits which would be the majority of the exterior that way it is smooth and protected from further corrosion along with the primer and paint but you would have to sand it before you Primed and painted it.
The tool looks like it can clean pretty fast, but it is such a big surface. Sandblasting is a no no at the dock, like you stated, so the tool is probably the best idea. I am pretty sure "Cees", is pronounced like "case". I would not have worried about plating on the outside, but its your ship, now its on the inside. Well, I'm bingewatching now, I was busy, but I made some time. :) I hope you read my comments. Greetings, Jeff
I do and you'r probably right about the pronunciation of Cees. However, he was always too polite to correct us and we learned by ear. We also never figured out how to pronounce "Urk". People corrected us, we tried to imitate and people corrected us to something that sounded similar to our previous pronunciation. Heaving the overplating on the inside is just more beautiful. After the paint is on you won't notice that there was a damage.
@@FlyingConey Very cool. If you really wonder what things sound like you could try google translate, usually it says it right, sometimes it has the wrong emphasis. Maybe "Urk" sounds like the "ehh" when thinking and not knowing the right thing to say. Just add "rk" after that, and there you have it. Greetings, Jeff
In Australia there is a coating called Phenix paint. It chemically bonds to rust so you only need to remove loose rust. I'd guess you would have a similar product where you are
I Dont know if your able to get your hands on a laser striper its a paint and rust remover, its tricky to find even in USA but I do know its very good!
Hy. I am watching your channel and remember the refit of my own boat. I had a block hung to the Reling and a counterweight on one end of a rope with the grinder on the other end. Then you just have to guide the tool and hold it up. Try it might help 😊. Gruß aus Kiel
That method is genius! We thought about setting up such a construction with double block as trolley on a rope (Laufkatze). I find it very strange that in situation like that I find myself preferring to work harder not smarter. In reality the dimension of the boat also turned out to be a problem. Climbing down the platform only to walk around the ship and climbing up the ladder to adjust the system only to climb down again and up again sound like a lot of climbing up and down again. But in three it's a great system.
Great job guys. Was justvcurious, the rust issue keeps cropping up and then the removal of the rust (sand blasting etc). What happens thereafter with the pitting? Is there a 'filler' before the paint that can be used. Will you weld the pits? Just a thought ...
I should imagine the yard won’t allow sand blasting, because of the mess. Why not say to the manager. If we place a polythene structure over the whole boat, or at least the hull section and have ground sheets. There isn’t going to be any mess. And they can supervise every part of the blasting. It’s just a thought. 👍👍
You can do that. No problem, it's not like the yard didn't want to help. But sandblasting is about 10k and for a blasting tent we're talking 15-20k. Also the blasting is kind of a nice to have and we have to be very sure on the final color. All in all the blasting and re coating is a 40 000€ thing. Money I won't spend until we've done all the necessary jobs. The Tercoo does a good job and the coating will last 5-10 years. Not that bad.
I'm sorry to say but to eliminate rust grinding is never enough. There will always (!) be microscopic spots of rust left that you can't see with your eyes. It's in the best a provisional solution for a couple of years. You need sandblasting in good conditions (summer and really low humidity). Even an overnight waiting between sandblasting and the closing first paint layer is giving rust opportunity. Another method less demanding is using acid after grinding. I think YT channel Adventures of an old seadog used this on his boat White Shadow. Expert advice on preparing steel on saltwater is the Bering Yachts website. Respect for your determination. I've also been (very long ago) into crazy steel boat restoration projects. You have to be really determined.
We're calculating with 5-7 years and hopefully will have the opportunity to soda or hydrojetblast the hull. But it's the last step in a long project. Not sure if you know the Tercoo? It's not grinding the rust away, the metal pins do hit the surface and hammer paint and rust off. That's very important difference!
@@FlyingConey Yes, but I don't believe in it's effectiveness. I have seen enough through the years. Hope it turns out ok for Flying Coney, there's a lot of square meters in your project.
The haulout and splash process in itself an expensive endeavor. Why rush now only to haulout again in a year? Griding down the hull and not doing a thorough job the first time just creates more problems in the long run. If you were to only partially derust now and then apply bottom paint and splash you are just creating more work for yourself in the long run. If rust scale remains then the bottom paint applied will continue to fleck off causing more rust. You need to sandblast and after sandblasting you need to immediately apply 2 part barrier coat. If done properly you would not have to haul the boat for at least 2 years. It always pays dividends to do it right.
There are rust concerters on the market which can be overpainted....do that on your pittings where you cannot reach with needlagun or the "monster", then filler, then paint...but let the rust converter dry out completely
We do regret it that we didn't used such a product. The are a little bit on the pricy side but worth the extra money considering the work we put in. But so far it seams that we've done a good enough job.
Owatrol CIP you mean? I use that too. Don't forget to grind before applying and after! Also, you can use it as an additive to the first paint layers. They become more resilliant to cracks from impact, I was told by the reseller.
If you are using two component "surface tolerant epoxy" that is intended to be applied over a rusted steel surface - it is very possible that the rust converter would NOT be a good base treatment because the adhesion of the epoxy to the rusted steel is better than to the rust converter.
CORRECT! My Jotun consultant insisted that I did not use rust converter. But painting over rust is not the answer. Best to do the best job possible with a needle gun and follow up with (as you advised) a "surface tolerant epoxy". I have enjoyed great success with Jotamastic 90.
The Tercoo is very similar to a needle gun but in my opinion a little bit better. Also heavier but better... The needle gun has a tendency to work the rust into the steel while the hard metal pins of the Tercoo just hammer the paint and the rust off. A surface tolerant zinc rich epoxy is what we've used on bare metal.
@@FlyingConey Needle gunning is all about being able to spot the rust and having the skill, patience and determination to extract ALL the rust from the deepest pit. I think that the Tercoo would be an excellent tool to quickly remove paint and surface rust but useless in tackling deep pitting and awkward confined spaces. Also although I've never used one, the Tercoo looks to be potentially dangerous in the wrong hands where as the air powered needle gun is so safe and friendly. So much fun! I love my Nitto Jetchisel Jex28, the very best needle gun in the free world !!!!
We do know it and considering it for the inside of the hull. It was kind of difficult for the yard because they usually used the needle gun and since it was too loud for the people living around the yard it was permanently banned in the first week we were on the hard.
Don't waste your energy on the negative comments. Those people are probably having a hard time with life. Surround your selves with positive people which will boost your energy to carry on to over come problems. Some one or some thing will always turn up when you need a solution. Im older and have always had projects and it has always amazed me looking back at how things come together. Im retired and love watching you tube to inspire, invigorate, and energise me to carry on with my projects. I thank you for doing that to me. You guys are an awesome watch.
Your comment really means a lot for us. Thank you!
It brought a smile to my face seeing this come up on my feed. Thoroughly enjoying your channel 😊. Keep up the great work.
It looks like your basically on the right track. You have learnt a great deal about your beautiful vessel and what's involved in restoring an old riveted steel ship that has been sadly neglected for many years. So for now the aim is to make her water tight, get her back in the water, replenish your resources and find the right yard to undertake what has now become an extensive hull repair project. Working with what you've got, concentrate on descaling the wind and water line to a high standard and apply the best marine paint system available.. I have had great success with Jotamastic 90. For the rest of the hull remove all loose coatings, patch up where necessary and apply a holding coat to the whole hull below the wind and water line. The utmost CRUCIAL measure you must take is to ensure that your cathodic protection (zinc anodes) is up to the task, routinely monitored and well maintained. Good Luck!!!
There will always be negative posts .... ignore them ! You guys are doing the impossible ... and that is more than interesting. Thanks for taking us with you.
Absolutely agree - never let perfection become the enemy of good. 😊
Have you looked into dry ice blasting? It works well and leaves no residue. Also consider surface tolerant epoxies for a coating, such as Euronavy ES301k or some similar coatings for marginal preparation or heavily rusted surfaces. Good luck
I dont know if either of you follow any philosophers but I think you'd have been applauded by them all. For two highly organised, diligent and analytical people to knowingly thrust themselves into the chaos of an ancient steel boat transformation is a great commitment to life's meaning. Such a tough and delightful passion project is a wonderful obstacle to overcome. This can only lead to success - whatever the outcome.
Very kind of Treeco to partner with you! Goodonyas! Go get'm tiger (s)!
The Tercoo scabbler seem so good !
Brilliant inspired and excellent video editing. Tall-Ho standard but IMHO even better. Unkown but not sure if needle gun would be better in some of the areas you used the new tool.
Your comment put a big smile on my face, I read it out loud to Barbara and I go a "Yahoo" back 👍Thank you!
To answer your question, the Tercoo works with the same principle a needle gun does. The hard metal pins are hitting the surface and hammering off paint and rust. It's quieter, the final finish is better and it's better for DIY since you don't need a compressor. But it's also heavier and it's tricky to get into the voids and the corners.
Having used needle-guns, those rotating tools & grit blasting. Number one is grit blasting Number 2 is a needle gun & those rotating tools would be last. I don't know why they wouldn't let you use wet grit blasting it doesn't produce dust. The real expensive way that big ship yards use is hydro blasting at 40k to 60k psi with a machine that actually crawls along the hull with a big vacuum system attached as well, removes all paint and rust.
I think it's a matter of choice if you prefer the Tercoo or the needle gun. There are upsides and downsides to both machines. Also Tercoo themselves say that they are an alternative to blasting if one can't blast or doesn't want to blast.
I think wet sandblasting would've been allowed in the shipyard but there was a misunderstanding because they thought I was talking about hydrojet blasting. Then they said, they tried it once but got multiple complains because the rust was flying all over the town. That robot machine sounds interesting but you forgot that when entering Urk you also travel through time and land in the 1920s.
I agree. Waiting for the best method, money, and or paint is something that never happenes. As you said, do the best you can now and keep reviewing options as they and needs arise.
It's all about priorities and in this situation the most important thing was to to get back into the water and also to recharge the batteries. At this point Daniel could hardly walk. Next up is to get everything done to renew the CVO and then we can focus on anything else. Thank you for your comment!
@@FlyingConey that is great plan.
I agree with your method of work. This is real life and you want to get Flying Coney in the water. You have to do what you can and plan on future work. It is so much work for 2 people but you are making progress.
Great show again - Love your music choice !
Thank you. You guys must be overwhelmed - such a huge project. We see your determination. The F C is coming to life.
Done, Is always better than perfect 👌
Keep up the good work, you're amazing!
The Pope might be interested in this ship. It is so Holy!
No, it's cursed 🐰
Whenever you get to the next phase of sandblasting, look in to "spray-welding" machines, they work like a paint spray gun but spray metal, they are used in a lot of restoration car body repair, they work good for putting a thin layer of real steel on a surface and filling holes. They are expensive but you should be able to rent/lease/hire one of the machines. They cover area pretty fast.
Love watching good luck !!!
This rebuild is something to be proud of, not many people would have the gumption to do it ,,,well done..as for the negative Nancy's welcome to UA-cam, absolutely every channel has them , keep up the great job...
Great job guys, keep up the good work!, cant wait to see it blasted a new paint !.
Ihr beisst euch prima durch ! Bei unserer 14m Lemsteraak von 1913 haben wir damals hauptsächlich mit hämmern und verschiedenen Rostumwandlern gearbeitet. Das hat recht gut funktioniert...danach 2 Komponenten Zinkgrundierung. Jetzt aber doch glücklich mit schönem klassischem GFK Segler im Mittelmeer. Alles Gute euch !⛵️
This channel is excellent. Love the history to the boat. To think it started life a wooden warship, amazing.
Marvelous!
Damn that shop is a monster but if you ever get her done you will have a great home to sail the seas with
You must be building some uper body strength using that tool. Well done guys
It doesn't have to be the best; it just has to work. Excellent video, as always.
Nice to know that others participate in her History...tell us more as you find it. You are both doing some HARD, DIRTY work, but one can feel the ship's welcoming of it all. Have a great week. R
F the haters. This channel and the boat are amazing.
I wouldn't let's people's negative comments bother you. It takes courage and commitment to conquer a project like this one. If only there were more people like you. Thank you for your commitment to this old vessel and piece of history .I wish you well
Thank you soo much for this kind comment 🥲👍
My humble opinion… you are right on track with your logic… good enough is just right for now.
Flying Coney is lucky to have found you. Best wishes on your endeavors
Your doing great ..I really like hearing the history of your boat/ship ...As far as people saying negative things don't let them bother you ...Keep up the hard work
As owner of a steel trawler I think your right about getting done what you can when you can and not worry about perfection, its a constant battle against corrosion and keeping it under control, like the look of the Trecko?
I am still learning to accept that while trying to preserve my classic steel sailing yacht inherited from my grandfather. I consider it good advice 🙂. Cheers to the readers and sharers!
so glad you carried on with flying coney she obviously has a great history and you will get there with what you are doing as you cant use sandblasting which seems silly on a shipyard still your using the right tools for the job and as you say you constantly check up to see the best ways of doing the job and you always pick the right way that tool looks awesome and the right tool for the job as she is so badly pitted above the water line you can get filler paints as you well know which will preserve the hull until you can get her sandblasted or bead blasted which would be better as the needs will get rid of the pitting and then properly painted keep on doing what you are doing as its the right way in your circumstances great video as always looking forward to the next one all the best from John from Rugby UK.
Hi Team , I just want to thank you once again for restoring this old chip/boat without people like yourself, they were just go to the scrapyard and we would never have them again. Thank you once again for all your hard work , Keep up with everything you’re doing Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia from the big island
Love this channel!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So much commitment by you guys = success in the long run!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Your right. All you can do is make it safe and usable until the time comes to do it right. The only way to really save the ship is on the hard, sand blast all ext and int, prep and epoxy coating, anti foaling and finish coating. But first, will this project be worth anything when you are finished. Can you afford this and future work. Can you afford to operate it. I sure hope so because you are wonderful people. I, and I’m sure all of your subscribers wish you all the best. Great channel and God bless you.
Thank you for sharing your huge restoration project! Very impressed!
And don't forget that in the end it is your ship and your decisions that matter whatever other "experts" think.
Thank you! One of the reasons why we started this channel is because we wanted to share the experience. It's nothing you see everyday so we thought it might be interesting. But we aslo want to share the knowledge, we've both been sailing teachers for a reason. We also like to share what we know and we do our best to provide you with good informations.
I understand this is quite a tedious undertaking by the shipyard master Cees …He seems to fully understand steel hulls and the never ending challenges with rust..
The best part of it all is that you both will fully know the hull integrity of Flying Coney..
Next, the inside is removed from the critical underwater areas, which creates a new start..
Keep up the good work..
All of the lads in the shipyard did know their stuff but Cees is a real master of his trade. It's not only a job for him it's a true passion. His uncle has a more than 100 year old steel botter and he had also worked on the Gulden Leeuw. A good yard needs a guy like him!
I think you two are great and are real characters, and make this build more fascinating. Personally, l still think that despite all the welding, that this hull in my mind could never be trusted and is not very strong anymore. I admire you both for the determination,very brave or crazy.
No blasting what so ever!? Seems a bit unreasonable. Nonetheless, I enjoyed this episode & thank you for bringing us along on this adventure!
It's possible if you rent a blasting tent. But that's more expensive than the blasting itself. The yard is a maintenance shipyard for workboats and one week after we've taken out the ship they banned needle guns.
But there are specialized yards for boatbuilding or for bigger jobs. The downside is usually you're not allowed to work on the boat yourself and they are usually more expensive.
You can buy a sandblasting wand that attaches to a power washer (1,500 PSI). It draws sand in and mixes with the water leaving no dust.
Other old steel ships such as Pitcairn Castle they scrape and paint, scrape and paint and its still floating!
I think you guys are doing an amazing job on the Flying Coney!
Bon travail 👍👍 ne pas hésiter à changer les tôles rouillées vous gagnerez du temps et de l argent cordialement from France
Wonderful project I wish you every success 👍
Your intro always make's me laugh when i see the blade shoot out of the Sawzall .And that young man who does your welding is a real Godsend he has a gift and passion for it .I really like how he is willing to teach you the how and why he does what he does .He must have had a great teacher .And that's wonderful news about the history of Fling Coney .I know there will always be critics about how you do things but i want you to know those are very few compared to other people doing Ship or boat repair or restoration .On the 26th of this month i will turn 66 years old but watching you two working on Flying Coney really get's me felling much younger .So much so that i can feel the rolling of one of the boats i used to have and feel the freedom and the excitement of casting off from the dock and looking off into the horizon to find out what is there . when i make my Birthday wish i will add you three into it and ask for you two to see your dream come true .My oldest dream and wish came true 7 years ago A friend of mine had a grand daughter and she was born on the same day i was and she has adopted my as her Great grand pa .her name is Paris .Well gotta go I have birthday presents to buy and other boring things to do .
Tha shooting blade gets me every time!
Dear Logan, Barbara and I are wishing you very happy Birthday. Your many lovely comments always put a smile on our faces and they've not gone unnoticed. Thank you very much. We wish you many years together with Paris and we hope you've celebrated this day with her. There's a famous Austrian song named "Life begins at 66". So we wish you all the best and many healthy years to come! 🎂🎁🎈
@@FlyingConey I looked up the song and found it not bad thanks .I took her and grand pa out for the day we had good weather and a lot of fun .
I admire your drive and dedication, your way is exactly the right way 💯nobody else is going to do it.👍👍🎬
I really enjoy the fine videos. I look forward to the videos each week. And now Instagram. Awesome.
Damn stacking up massive work! keep on fighting, it will be worth it in the end!
Yes You are absolutely right
What an arduous task I am just full of admiration for how hard you’ve worked. The amount of rust must partly be caused by the very sad state of the anodes. The obviously weren’t attended to you. this story is not only the story of a ship, but of a romance, and it’s not the worst for that.
It takes a lot of effort to set up, shoot, and prepare these videos. Some people will always gravitate towards dumb and nasty in their comments. You guys do a great job on your presentations and need to just ignore the fools. I'll bet there are way more people cheering for your success than you might think. Your welder is worth his weight in gold. Working on old rusty ships is a calling from above since you don't get rich by doing it. Thanks again.
If I was near I would give you a hand...I spent 40 years in the merchant marine. I chipped, grinded, wire brushed, primed and painted a lot.
I’ve been watching you and and the ship happens channel and you both have taken on some very big projects. But all in all you are making progress and that’s awesome:) as soon as you get the hull taken care of then the rest of the build we be more enjoyable, or hopefully easier anyway. Keep up the good work👍
What a brute of a machine is that Tercoo! I want one.
They now have an even bigger version of this machine 😎
I think you guy's are doing a great job!!! 😉😁👌👍
greetsz from friesland...max...
Making a lot of good progress and you'll get her there. Your both doing great!
Your doing a great job,that grinding machine is a beast,you don't need to go to the gym after working with that.
"Chemtech Fertan Rust Converter" very popular with the extremes of the Australian mining industries, it's a rust converter look it up 👍☺
I think your approach is the best way for your situation.
Great job!
I agree with your assesment on doing something is better than nothing. I disagree that applying rust converter could have been skipped. It it's something you could easily spray or roll on and then the paint would adhere better to the surface and any damage to the outer paint might not lead to huge rust blisters forming. Just my opinion but I also don't have a giant steel boat to think about.
We never THOUGHT that applying rust converter could have been skipped. We thought let's get rid of the rust on the waterline to check if they're some pinholes. Also we didn't wanted to paint directly over rust. The next thing I know was that there was 2k zinc primer applied. Of course the perfectionism kicked in and we did our best to get a sandblasting like finish. Tercoo first, CSD Disc second and wire brush last to get into the voids. It's an experiment and let's see how long it'll last.
As a steel boat owner, Tercoo is an absolute Blast :-) My vessel is only 10.80 meters, and I can do most jobs wih the 3 blades that can go in to a normal 230V power drill. You need 3000 RPM so most battery drills do not work. I know all about the horrors of sandblasting so Yes, it is a lifesaver!
Hi Coney Crew, I liked how you were able to work around the restrictions of the shipyard when it came to sandblasting. It did look to work well. Considering the age of the steel, it was probably the better way to go. I enjoyed this video on how the surface was prepped. I liked that the doubler was welded on the inside. It keeps the ship from being covered on the outside with patch work. You are right about only repairing the "have to" parts of the hull which will shorten the time in the shipyard. By dealing with the major integrity components at this time makes the most sense. All boats are under perpetual repair their whole life. As you have always said: get it fixed enough to put it back in the water and that will ease the pressure and cost of moving forward. Great work, it's going forward just fine.👍
I’m glad you both are so positive. I think I would’ve count my losses and scrapped her. Keep it up, I’m behind you all the way 👍👍
you are doing great job under the circomstances try spraying cokecola on your cleaned parts as this a rust inhibitor good luck
We simply "forgot" to put a rust converter on. It was more like, let's do the waterline and the next thing I remember is that there was two component zinc primer on the hull. But we did ou best to get a rust free finish so in theory it should last a few years. But good ol' coke does a good job!
I spent my whole working career making decisions like yours, so I completely understand what you are saying.
You know what has to be done, sandblast the hull, but you can't do it where you are. So you do what you can and move on.
I probably would have done the exact same thing if I was in the same situation as you.
You have the holes in the hull plugged up for now and that is a huge thing. Yes, there may be more in fact when you do get it blasted I can pretty well guarantee that there will be more holes, nature of steel boats and salt water, but you should be good for a year or so.
As far as the negative comments go, when you open your life up on youtube there are always going to be trolls. Ignore them and if they continue isn't there a way to block them so they can't comment.
i dont understand your view. This is a public forum, the owners are putting themselves out for public viewing. There is a thumbs up and a thunbs down for a reason. What you are insinuating is there should only be positive comments that support your view. That is strange.
The Terco disks are fantatstic for projects that aren't as big as yours. I used the 3-fold disks to strip the old primer and rust from below the waterline on my 31ft Seahawk, wish I had the "beast" version at that time...
Especially the voids made it tricky for the big Tercoo to shine. But still we got rid of a lot of rust. Especially at the stern there was sometimes a layer of 5mm rust! Now we know that there's no hole behind it and it will last a couple of years. All in all the de rusting and reciting costed about 4 000€. Blasting and completely re coating the outside will be about 30k. Since budget is always limited now it's more important to get the frames and the renewing of the CVO done and then we can focus on cosmetics. It's a good feeling that most of the rust is gone now, I can tell you that!
I’m not sure how much farther along you are in this process from this video but I wanted to mention to you a product we have here in the USA that might be of help to you.
This product is called POR15 and it is a type of paint that encapsulates the rust thus stopping it’s progression and dries very hard. It is often used on vehicle frames and such things that are subject to rust.
It is black in color and I thought it might work well on the inside of your hull.
I hope that soon the two of you are able to stop finding problems and are able to start making gains towards your ultimate goal. Good luck and best wishes.
P.S. A quote from Theodore Roosevelt: “Do what you can with what you have where you are at.” You guys are doing great; don’t get discouraged.
Theodore Roosevelt and Lee Hazlewood are the reason why I'm always undecided if I should wear the tipps of my mustache up or down 🤣 Any suggestions? Thanks for the comment!
@@FlyingConey your mustache looks great whichever way you want to wear it. I wish I could grow such a nice mustache. lol 😆
You yourself have a great looking beard, but thank you very much! 😉
I have a fair amount of experience with Sandblasting and Metal work. Make sure you use a rust converter before you cover the low areas with filler. I would get advice from other shipyards as well. Not just that shipyard. I personally wouldn't use filler if your planning on sandblasting the ship in the future. It will become a waste of money. Just paint the Haul for now and in the future sandblast it and than use filler to fill the low areas to prep for paint. If that ship was mine, I personally wouldn't sandblast that Ship. I would just paint it. Than repaint it, ever five or ten years. unless you absolutely have to repair new areas.
You'r correct. I wrongly used the term filler paint. It was more like a two component relatively thick primer the yard recommended whenever we striped the hull to bare steel. Also you'r correct on sandblasting, since the ship is riveted and the seams are caulked it's not recommended. Hydrojetblasting or Sodablasting might be possible. Applying no rust converter was probably our biggest mistake but so far no rust is coming through.
Hallo,
ich schaue mir eure Geschichte seid einiger Zeit an und nach jedem Video denke ich, das ihr nun zur Vernunft kommt. Aus eigener Erfahrung empfehle ich euch, die Situation ohne Emotionen zu überdenken. Das Schiff zu retten, wird enorme Summen verschlingen. Der Stahl ist ab, der Innenausbau ist raus, und wie die Technik aussieht denke ich mir. Euer Leben wird im Endeffekt nur noch vom Schiff beherrscht, aber nicht im Positiven. Wrackt ab !
Hallo Rüdiger, ich habe mich wirklich bemüht zu erklären warum das Schiff eben nicht schrottreif ist. Es geht nicht um den Zustand vom Schiff sondern darum die geplanten! Arbeiten von einem Jahr unter Zeitdruck zu erledigen wo man jede Woche erschöpfter und müder wird. Deswegen war die Elektrolyse so schlimm. Finanziell reden wir da über 5000€. Technik? Motor ist gut, Hydraulic ist neu, Generator hat fast keine Stunden, Schraube schaut aus wie neu... Wir wissen und wir wussten worauf wir uns bei einem historischen Restaurationsobjekt einlassen, ehrlich gesagt haben wir unterschätzt was es bedeutet in einer Werft zu arbeiten und dann auch noch daneben Videos zu machen. Videos die zu diesem Zeitpunkt kaum Geld eingebracht haben und wo man nie weiß ob das Video jetzt gut ankommt oder nicht. Wir wollen uns da beide keine Gedanken über eine Entscheidung machen die wir schon längst getroffen haben. Vor allem, wie stellst du dir das mit dem Abwraken vor? So oder so müssen wir zurück ins Wasser... Dann kann man sich überlegen ob es weitergeht oder nicht. (Nur um das klarzustellen wir sind zurück im Wasser und es geht weiter.)
Have you guys looked into laser cleaning the hull. The laser removes the rust perfectly to a paintable surface. ❤❤❤
We have and it's definitely an option. But the machine is about 5 000€ per week. No money you want to spend when you walk around like an 80 year old.
I suggest that the amount of time, energy and money you spend on your ship will depend on the enð use you intend to put her to. The first, and probably the most economical one would be to use her in combination with a small business as a historical ship to charge admission to, in which case the emphasis on repairs should be on the cosmetic elements only. If you are planning to use her for long sea voyages then there's no way that I would be putting my faith in those rusting old plates and I would have to totally remove and replace them while paying careful attention to the frames behind them because I suspect that many of them are severely damaged by corrosion as well. Sorry to be the bearer of such a hard appraisal but I assume that you are wanting only my honest opinion on the matter. Good luck!
Small excavator with a Brussel broom attachment that spins
Have you thought of using an epoxy coating on the hull at some future time. It would put an end to most of the corrosion.
Tercoo
The needle gun is the best solution for pitted metal when you cannot use any blasting. I wonder if you could use body filler like is used on automobiles that is not Bondo to fill in the pits which would be the majority of the exterior that way it is smooth and protected from further corrosion along with the primer and paint but you would have to sand it before you Primed and painted it.
It reallly isn't though. It's so weak and slow and such a small area. Terrible tool and why very few people use it.
The tool looks like it can clean pretty fast, but it is such a big surface.
Sandblasting is a no no at the dock, like you stated, so the tool is probably the best idea.
I am pretty sure "Cees", is pronounced like "case".
I would not have worried about plating on the outside, but its your ship, now its on the inside.
Well, I'm bingewatching now, I was busy, but I made some time. :)
I hope you read my comments.
Greetings,
Jeff
I do and you'r probably right about the pronunciation of Cees. However, he was always too polite to correct us and we learned by ear. We also never figured out how to pronounce "Urk". People corrected us, we tried to imitate and people corrected us to something that sounded similar to our previous pronunciation.
Heaving the overplating on the inside is just more beautiful. After the paint is on you won't notice that there was a damage.
@@FlyingConey Very cool.
If you really wonder what things sound like you could try google translate, usually it says it right, sometimes it has the wrong emphasis. Maybe "Urk" sounds like the "ehh" when thinking and not knowing the right thing to say. Just add "rk" after that, and there you have it.
Greetings,
Jeff
In Australia there is a coating called Phenix paint. It chemically bonds to rust so you only need to remove loose rust. I'd guess you would have a similar product where you are
Vosel 😅 love it 😂
I Dont know if your able to get your hands on a laser striper its a paint and rust remover, its tricky to find even in USA but I do know its very good!
Hy. I am watching your channel and remember the refit of my own boat. I had a block hung to the Reling and a counterweight on one end of a rope with the grinder on the other end. Then you just have to guide the tool and hold it up. Try it might help 😊. Gruß aus Kiel
That method is genius! We thought about setting up such a construction with double block as trolley on a rope (Laufkatze). I find it very strange that in situation like that I find myself preferring to work harder not smarter. In reality the dimension of the boat also turned out to be a problem. Climbing down the platform only to walk around the ship and climbing up the ladder to adjust the system only to climb down again and up again sound like a lot of climbing up and down again. But in three it's a great system.
Verry nice video... And i like the way you describe me😂
Great job guys. Was justvcurious, the rust issue keeps cropping up and then the removal of the rust (sand blasting etc). What happens thereafter with the pitting? Is there a 'filler' before the paint that can be used. Will you weld the pits? Just a thought ...
Do you plan to paint the underwater part this time or better wait until next possibility?
I should imagine the yard won’t allow sand blasting, because of the mess. Why not say to the manager. If we place a polythene structure over the whole boat, or at least the hull section and have ground sheets. There isn’t going to be any mess. And they can supervise every part of the blasting.
It’s just a thought. 👍👍
You can do that. No problem, it's not like the yard didn't want to help. But sandblasting is about 10k and for a blasting tent we're talking 15-20k. Also the blasting is kind of a nice to have and we have to be very sure on the final color. All in all the blasting and re coating is a 40 000€ thing. Money I won't spend until we've done all the necessary jobs. The Tercoo does a good job and the coating will last 5-10 years. Not that bad.
@@FlyingConey you can buy a new boat with that kind of money 😂👍
Are you sure with all that rust the integrity of the hole hull is safe
I'm sorry to say but to eliminate rust grinding is never enough. There will always (!) be microscopic spots of rust left that you can't see with your eyes.
It's in the best a provisional solution for a couple of years. You need sandblasting in good conditions (summer and really low humidity).
Even an overnight waiting between sandblasting and the closing first paint layer is giving rust opportunity.
Another method less demanding is using acid after grinding. I think YT channel Adventures of an old seadog used this on his boat White Shadow. Expert advice on preparing steel on saltwater is the Bering Yachts website.
Respect for your determination. I've also been (very long ago) into crazy steel boat restoration projects. You have to be really determined.
We're calculating with 5-7 years and hopefully will have the opportunity to soda or hydrojetblast the hull. But it's the last step in a long project. Not sure if you know the Tercoo? It's not grinding the rust away, the metal pins do hit the surface and hammer paint and rust off. That's very important difference!
@@FlyingConey Yes, but I don't believe in it's effectiveness. I have seen enough through the years.
Hope it turns out ok for Flying Coney, there's a lot of square meters in your project.
good work, guys. R U allowed to sand blast inside the hull?
Would it not easer to use a sandblaster as you would be able to get into those tight places and do the whole ship from bow to stern
Have you considered using phosphoric acid to treat the rust before over coating it? if you have, why did you decide against this?
The stripper looks like its doing a great job, bet you have arms like Popeye. Great update 2x👍
The increased biceps size was definitely a benefit. No additional curls for the girls needed 😄 But my back still hurts...
@@FlyingConey I bet my back hurts just watching 👍👍
The haulout and splash process in itself an expensive endeavor. Why rush now only to haulout again in a year? Griding down the hull and not doing a thorough job the first time just creates more problems in the long run. If you were to only partially derust now and then apply bottom paint and splash you are just creating more work for yourself in the long run. If rust scale remains then the bottom paint applied will continue to fleck off causing more rust. You need to sandblast and after sandblasting you need to immediately apply 2 part barrier coat. If done properly you would not have to haul the boat for at least 2 years. It always pays dividends to do it right.
There will always be someone saying they could do better.
Needle gun air operated😊
Два чудака в одном тазу пустились по морю в грозу. Прочнее был бы старый таз - длиннее был бы наш рассказ!
There are rust concerters on the market which can be overpainted....do that on your pittings where you cannot reach with needlagun or the "monster", then filler, then paint...but let the rust converter dry out completely
We do regret it that we didn't used such a product. The are a little bit on the pricy side but worth the extra money considering the work we put in. But so far it seams that we've done a good enough job.
❤❤❤❤❤❤
Did you look at the product Owatrol? It converts rust and protects metal. I love it : )
Owatrol CIP you mean? I use that too. Don't forget to grind before applying and after!
Also, you can use it as an additive to the first paint layers. They become more resilliant to cracks from impact, I was told by the reseller.
If you are using two component "surface tolerant epoxy" that is intended to be applied over a rusted steel surface - it is very possible that the rust converter would NOT be a good base treatment because the adhesion of the epoxy to the rusted steel is better than to the rust converter.
CORRECT! My Jotun consultant insisted that I did not use rust converter. But painting over rust is not the answer. Best to do the best job possible with a needle gun and follow up with (as you advised) a "surface tolerant epoxy". I have enjoyed great success with Jotamastic 90.
The Tercoo is very similar to a needle gun but in my opinion a little bit better. Also heavier but better... The needle gun has a tendency to work the rust into the steel while the hard metal pins of the Tercoo just hammer the paint and the rust off. A surface tolerant zinc rich epoxy is what we've used on bare metal.
@@FlyingConey Needle gunning is all about being able to spot the rust and having the skill, patience and determination to extract ALL the rust from the deepest pit. I think that the Tercoo would be an excellent tool to quickly remove paint and surface rust but useless in tackling deep pitting and awkward confined spaces. Also although I've never used one, the Tercoo looks to be potentially dangerous in the wrong hands where as the air powered needle gun is so safe and friendly. So much fun! I love my Nitto Jetchisel Jex28, the very best needle gun in the free world !!!!
Have you heard about water sandblasting no dust ,should look in to it
We do know it and considering it for the inside of the hull. It was kind of difficult for the yard because they usually used the needle gun and since it was too loud for the people living around the yard it was permanently banned in the first week we were on the hard.
Are you going to try a coat of rust converter before paint?