Truly a masterpiece. Thanks for taking the time to carefully show each stage of production. I can really appreciate what you said in part 2, in reference to the lack of learning material available when you were learning the art, and have a lot of respect for your capabilities. Even with all of today's videos, sometimes it can still be quite hard to research some of the finer details of armour making- this is one of the few videos I have seen that shows the interior suspension system- I am currently working on a leather helmet myself and have been struggling with the research for some of these points. Thanks again, I have subscribed and intend to donate soon.
+m456griffin I'm so very glad that I can help. If you're interested, the main reason why I haven't posted any new videos recently is because I'm working on a book which will outline in even further detail the steps in the creation of early medieval armour. It will (hopefully) be part of a book series that will continue through the medieval and renaissance period. Thanks for subscribing and I wish you the best of luck with your projects!
@Washington: bluing was often done on armour to help resist corrosion. There were different methods of bluing/blackening, but this method produced a finish that the client liked :-).
Very nice helmet, i have learned a great deal from your videos. Thank you. I probably will never build one but finding out how is a great pleasure for this old man. Again thank you.
handsinthefire It takes time to get the tools needed, but most armourers tend to start small and work bigger as they acquire the necessary tools. Don't get discouraged and remember to keep trying. As long as you enjoy what you're doing, then you will find a way to make it work!
@ apieceoftofu: For a first time, this has really nice clean lines. Look at some more historical examples and pay attention to what exactly is being done to create the shape of the helm. It's a good start, so keep up the good work!
I know this is an older video but wow, nice work. Im slowly starting in on wanting to make armor again and your videos here and the spaulders are a great help
I'm so glad it has helped. The past several years has been devoted to the first if a series of books on how to make armour designed specifically for folks like you ;-). There's still a lot more work to be done, but I'll be making announcements and reveals as things progress.
The helmet was part of a larger set comprising of a cerveillier, fencing mask and rivetted maille aventail. The whole ensemble was $1,250. www.crescentmoonarmoury.net/Crescent_Moon_Armoury/Custom_Helmets/Pages/13th_Century_Greathelm_and_Cerveillier.html
This is truly beautiful piece of work, I started my first armour production projects few months ago, corazzin armour, brigandine arms and tear drop pauldrons, it s not yet done, I just have to rivet it on to the fabric, but soon it will be :) now you have inspired me to try this :) it seams simpler because it involves far less hammering but I bet it isn t easy, I found the pattern in the description, and for the plywood it says enlarge it by 400%, this relates to A4 format paper, am I right??
The result is so impressive, you've done an amazing job ! I was also wondering if bluing was historically accurate. I don't know anything about it, so I'm asking, since I guess they had a way in he 14th to do so without our tools.
@ apieceoftofu: Yes, you are correct! Many 14th century and later 15th century piece were indeed case carburized wrought iron. But there are many examples of 13th century and earlier helmets that were not. The Pembridge Helm is a rare example where it might have been done (Williams, Dr. Alan R., Four Helms of the 14th Century, JAAS, 198, Vol. 10, No 3, p 80-102.) However, being that this is intended as an introductory tutorial video, it was a bit much to try and fit into...plus the case carburization method was intended to create a layer of steel onto the wrought iron sheet. This is made of low carbon mild steel, but steel nonetheless. It seemed redundant and more expensive than the client was able to pay.
Thanks for the great info. Your great-helm in this video looks very similar to the Pembridge Helm that you mentioned. I just started my great helm tonight but I'm doing the flat-topped, more cylindrical "bucket" style because its my first time attempting plate armour and those versions have fewer plates to fit together and rivet in place. Mine is mild steel as well (probably around 0.1 carbon content), could you point me to some good guides for case carburizing with basic equipment? I might want to give it a shot.
apieceoftofu Learn how to walk before running. Case carburization is not a beginner level process and isn't a priority in early stages of learning armoursmithing. However, if you are determined... The essential process is to take the low carbon steel and seal it in a metal vessel (an emptied and clean food can) along with carbon-rich organic material and then bake it at a red heat for a long period of time (longer than 24 hours). The carbon in the organic material bonds into the surface of the steel, creating a thin layer of higher carbon steel. The best material to use is charcoal dust, but I've seen blackpowder enthusiasts re-carburize the frizzens of their flintlocks using scrap leather. Keep in mind, this process was used primarily to harden the edges of tools and weapons, but there's minimal evidence of this being used in armour from the time period (12th-13th centuries). ua-cam.com/video/TKKhIOx707M/v-deo.html
Wow, what a fantastic piece! Wouldn't wrought-iron helmets at least have been case-hardened though? I'm just not sure how comfortable I would be taking a blow to the head with only a low-carbon iron for protection.
I love how you balanced vision and protection, and the idea of a second smaller healmet instead of a full chainmail coif, since pierce protection will not protect me from a cracked skull. It looks mean. I don't get the same feeling from armour and weapons from the 15th century onwards. My period of interest would be from the times of Julius Caesar to 1400 AD. Regarding the design, I wander if it could be made with a greater perforated surface, of only small holes; if perforations for the ears could be added; and if heat treating to a pring temper an appropiate steel would allow the use of 1mm sheet without loss of durability and protection (assuming 1mm thickness and spring temper for both the interior and great healmets).
+SalveMonesvol Well, first of all, this is not my design. The use of the great helm with a skull cap (cerveillier) is well documented, historically. The pierced holes closely match the ones used in the historical original. From what I've seen, there aren't any great helms that have perforated holes for the ears. As for heat treatment....this is a modern technique that's only possible with homogeneous high-carbon steels. A great helm and cerveillier like this would have been produced during the late 13th century and early 14th century. Most armour at that time was made of wrought iron and there were some that were case carburized to create a thin steel outer layer to the wrought iron sheet.
Parker Brown Hey! I have a quick question. I can not find any supplyers in my area that sells round headed rivets. (I am guessing that it is such a small market for it here in Norway.....) So I was wondering if you know of any websites that might sell any like the ones you are using on your helmet in this video because I think it makes the result look so much better than making rivets out of nails. I also can not say enough how much I love your work!
+Przemek Krawczak I do not ever consider myself to be a master. I am and will always be an ever-learning student. Anytime I think I've "mastered" something, I find someone or something that proves me very wrong ;-).
+Parker Brown oh, that's a really darn shame. I could see me listening to the tracks not mentioned while working on my own armor. Well, thank you for taking the time to reply. I hope to see more videos in the future.
Try searching for Medieval music here. I was listening to some very long compilations but I'm sure that one of the songs here I remember from those videos. Search for 1 hour long compilations.
I like the idea of using non blued rivets on the blackened steel, or maybe a copper coated to give it a nice contrast to the black that will really pop before you get your head bashed in on the battle field lol
A fun way to copper plate steel is to dip the steel into hyper-saturated jeweler's pickle. The pickle (which is mostly sodium bisulfate) is used to clean sterling silver after soldering and tends to strip away copper. After the pickle is super saturated with copper, dipping clean steel into it electrolytically plates the steel, giving the visual effect of copper with the durability of steel. However, the coating is quite thin and will wear off with time.
Amazing tutorial! I made one two years ago, it was first one I ever made and came out quite ugly but you gotta start somewhere. This tutorial was a great inspiration! 👍 Also how resistant is that bluing? I mean did you cover it with anything else after bluing or does it stay like that on itself?
I'm glad I could help! The bluing helps prevent rust, but you still NEED to keep the helmet well oiled. I use personally use CLP gun oil on all of my kit. It the U.S. Army uses it for their weapons systems....good enough for me!
I've personally seen historical examples with black painted interiors, but I cannot say that that paint was contemporary or if it was a later conservatory measure.
I have heard that there was a second helmet under the great helmet I didn't believe it! What is that arrangement called ? I am intrigued, I haven't seen it anywhere else or realised what I was looking at. Did I see this carved into some the effigies where he was wearing a helmet and the great helm was at his feet? I need to research, I love finding something new. It must have been hot in the in the Holy Lands!
+Bloodaxetheirritable Yes, there are multiple examples of the use of a great helm with an underneath cerveillier. However, this combination was in use after the Crusades.
@ apieceoftofu: I actually do not have any expertise on making helmet crests, but I do know the artist Jeff de Boer has done some for various armourers.
Out of curiosity, would this be strong enough for full contact fight leagues or is this more decorative? I am looking to getting into smithing my own pieces and if this would do well then I would be over the moon. Also, this is an amazing piece and you are a very talented smith.
It depends upon what fight league you're talking about. Most SCA and BoN armour standards are actually made thicker and heavier than historical armour. Technically speaking, there are many pieces of real armour that survived actual combat that wouldn't be allowed on a modern tournament league. This helmet was made for a client who fights in ARMA, but it wouldn't meet the standards required in BoN. It would meet standards required for SCA. If you are getting into a specific group, find out what the standards are from the marshal of your local organization. They will direct you as to what you need to do for fighting equipment.
Great looking helmet (no pun intended), but the only unfortunate problem is the eyeslits....... They are far to fig, easy for an arrow or a sword/dagger to go through.
Hey Parker, Just thought you might want to see some of the work your videos have inspired. I just finished my Great Helm tonight. Here's the pics. It was my first time working with steel sheet metal in an armoring context and im pretty happy with it for a first try (especially considering my less than ideal basement workshop). Your videos were invaluable. Thanks for all your hard work. i.imgur.com/0taRUY8.jpg i.imgur.com/qyyA9DZ.jpg
not too shabby as they say. Am I going entirely senile, with the memory span of a goldfish, however, in saying that you missed out a section on doing the wire-supported roll on the bottom? (Also, for an accurate copy of the Pembridge, it would have two parallel lines on the nasal, about 3mm / 1/18th in from the edge, graved or chiselled into the metal. They're not particularly noticeable in most photos, but stand out if you handle the original, and they do alter the look of it in a subtle way.)
I omitted showing the lower rolled edge simply because I didn't want proof if it and wrong :-/. And thank you for sharing the information about the nasal!
did'nt want proof of it, in terms of not having evidence of it on the original, to show how it was done? Because from what I could see, the roll was spot-on. If it's the case that you just need source material for confirming that detail on the original, I'll see to it that you get some detailed shots of the helm that clearly show the wire inside. (conveniently, the very tip of the front has corroded, so you can see how it was done.)
The helmet underneath is a cervelliere that has been modified to include a protective fencing mesh and bargrill. The edge of the cervelliere is a maille aventail for protection to the neck and throat. Historically, great-helms were often worn with a cervelliere underneath. The cervelliere evolved into the bascinet during the late 14th and early 15th centuries.
Andreas Stie, heat bluing forms an oxide layer over the surface of the steel helping it resist rusting. While technically bluing and rusting are both oxidization processes, bluing gives a certain amount of protection because bluing undergoes a small volume change and remains firmly on the surface of the steel. Rust undergoes a large volume change and will flake off, resulting in corrosion. The blue appearance of the oxide film is often used as an indication of temperature when tempering high carbon steel after hardening, indicating a state of temper suitable for producing a springy quality. However, this helmet (along with most armour of the early 14th century) was NOT made of high carbon steel and, as such, does nothing to the steel’s composition in terms of springiness. Hardening and tempering spring steel armour was done in limited quantities in the late 15th century and throughout the 16th century. It’s done today in far greater quantities in modern SCA and BoN armour, but is not historically accurate.
Yes. Pop rivets from a rivet gun will NOT hold up to use. They are horrendously inaccurate. Filing the ends off of the rivet will be exceedingly difficult. Instead, learn how to properly hammer rivet and a whole new world of potential will open up to you.
Parker Brown Can you link to a picture of the padded lining? Would this be worn under the Cervelliere, or between the two? Would the leather suspension system be different for a helm not worn over a Cervelliere?
Joseph Basham definitely look at battle of the nations the medieval passions coming back. Great helms are a start but if you can make full body armor and more complicated helms like close helms, bascinet etc. there's a market for it. Good blacksmiths are rare these days so if your good and word spreads you're in business. Ave Maria!!!
Jimbojet The weight of historical armour is comparable to the weight of modern infantry equipment. Bear in mind a knight started training at the age of 7. Armour could be heavy to anyone physically unaccustomed to it. Knights were professional warriors and the use of armour was part of their profession just as a modern specialist operator in the military would be accustomed to the weight and demand placed by their equipment.
+paul lima It must have varied quite a bit between smiths as well, are we including the time it takes to make the steel? Do we know if smiths then made all their own steel or there were producers of steel who sold it to armour smiths etc?
+bren cav Later on in the late 13th and 14th centuries, there was likely a dedicated production of sheet metal that could be purchased by an armoursmith for the purpose of production. However, keep in mind that the VAST majority of armour produced at this time period was wrought iron, not steel. The wrought iron could be made from bloomery iron, but this was such a time-intensive process that I don't realistically see an armoursmith trying to produce their own stock in-house. It's just not cost effective.
Parker Brown It could well be that the armour smiths worked in teams and had various different productions going on at once in the forge. Possibly the apprentices and assistants did the brute force work of producing the wrought iron while the armoursmith overlooked and actually made the final armour.
@fggdf fdgdfg: 1) A rivet gun is very difficult to fit inside of the interior of a helmet. 2) Filing the interior of a helmet is very difficult. 3) The entire use of a rivet gun and file is unnecessary as the mushroomed interior heads are smooth and function perfectly well for the needs of the armour. 4) The use of a rivet gun was certainly not a historical option.
Deus Vult, you need to measure your head and construct a wooden “dummy” similar to the wooden outline I give on the patterns page. Construct a new smaller wooden helmet outline and then modify each of the plate patterns off of that new helmet outline. Yes, this is a lot of work, but this is how good quality custom-fit armour gets made. You are not going to be able to just print out the given patterns by a reduced percentage and expect it to function on your head. You’ve got to take the time to adjust each part to fit and place your head in line with the oculars. Otherwise, it won’t work.
I assume that this helm is absolutely period, I know of more modern techniques and tricks that I would have used myself. What I get a kick out of is that steel helmets of recent manufacture are still being issued to Soldiers in 2023!
I'm not using high-carbon steel, so hardening and tempering isn't possible or necessary. You can only harden and temper steels above 1040 (0.40% carbon content). Most historical helmets of this time were not made of steel, but rather wrought iron which cannot be heat treated.
Okay, I will say that you're a great armour because I've tried this before and failed because I didn't measure right but I watched this series of videos and I really enjoyed watching you make the great helm but when you blued the helmet it made the great helm go from good to bad because no helmets in history were blue but I will say good job
+Ian Warren: Well, thank you for the compliment, but I will say there are hundreds of examples of blued historical helmets. One of the most notable examples is the blued and gilt armour of Sir George Clifford (1558 - 1605), Third Earl of Cumberland in the Metropolitan Museum of Art: www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/23939 This type of bluing is evident in the great helm that is part of the funerary achievements of Edward, the Black Prince (1330 - 1376). The origin of Edwards name, "the Black Prince" is uncertain, but one theory comes from the darkened nature of his armour.
Excuse me, sir I think ur helm look bad ass but ur templates lack measurements & I was really looking forward to making my own, do u think u could hook me up with some dimensions?
Xharles, I did not include dimensions because the pattern needs to be modified to fit the individual’s head. I suggest printing the patterns full-size, transfer to poster board and making a mock version of the helmet and modifying the dimensions in the poster board before cutting it out in steel. You will be MUCH happier with the end result.
terry halstead Oil attract dust and also will dry in time(depend on what type of oil you use). Wax can last pretty very time, provided if you don't scratch the wax on the surface away.
That is absolutely beautiful.
This makes me want to try! You've got me sitting here trying to think up excuses as to why I need my own greathelm lol. Well done!
+Tyler Baughman: It'll keep you from losing your mind.
only 47 hours. you made great time for such an awesome piece.
JD Cunningham. I like to get paid.
Truly a masterpiece. Thanks for taking the time to carefully show each stage of production. I can really appreciate what you said in part 2, in reference to the lack of learning material available when you were learning the art, and have a lot of respect for your capabilities. Even with all of today's videos, sometimes it can still be quite hard to research some of the finer details of armour making- this is one of the few videos I have seen that shows the interior suspension system- I am currently working on a leather helmet myself and have been struggling with the research for some of these points.
Thanks again, I have subscribed and intend to donate soon.
+m456griffin I'm so very glad that I can help. If you're interested, the main reason why I haven't posted any new videos recently is because I'm working on a book which will outline in even further detail the steps in the creation of early medieval armour. It will (hopefully) be part of a book series that will continue through the medieval and renaissance period. Thanks for subscribing and I wish you the best of luck with your projects!
love the music and the helm!
@Washington: bluing was often done on armour to help resist corrosion. There were different methods of bluing/blackening, but this method produced a finish that the client liked :-).
Thank you very much for uploading part three. I've been waiting since the second one.
Absolutely best greathelm I've ever seen. And most beautiful. Hope to see more in the future! Regards, Greg
Very nice helmet, i have learned a great deal from your videos. Thank you. I probably will never build one but finding out how is a great pleasure for this old man. Again thank you.
Wow.. It's.. Beautiful! A masterful work of armor craft. Well done.
Thank you!
this is honestly fascinating to watch. Wish i had all the things needed to do this.
handsinthefire It takes time to get the tools needed, but most armourers tend to start small and work bigger as they acquire the necessary tools. Don't get discouraged and remember to keep trying. As long as you enjoy what you're doing, then you will find a way to make it work!
@ apieceoftofu: For a first time, this has really nice clean lines. Look at some more historical examples and pay attention to what exactly is being done to create the shape of the helm. It's a good start, so keep up the good work!
Very good and informative set of videos. I enjoyed it quite a bit. Subscribed, thank you.
truly stunning great work..!
Absolutely beautiful.
Hey Parker,
Could you make a video on plumes? Building one and attaching it to a helmet would make a great vid I think.
I know this is an older video but wow, nice work. Im slowly starting in on wanting to make armor again and your videos here and the spaulders are a great help
I'm so glad it has helped. The past several years has been devoted to the first if a series of books on how to make armour designed specifically for folks like you ;-). There's still a lot more work to be done, but I'll be making announcements and reveals as things progress.
Parker Brown cant wait it would be a book id like to add to my library. I hope to get more into this as a hobby
The helmet was part of a larger set comprising of a cerveillier, fencing mask and rivetted maille aventail. The whole ensemble was $1,250.
www.crescentmoonarmoury.net/Crescent_Moon_Armoury/Custom_Helmets/Pages/13th_Century_Greathelm_and_Cerveillier.html
epic tutorial god bless you!
This is truly beautiful piece of work, I started my first armour production projects few months ago, corazzin armour, brigandine arms and tear drop pauldrons, it s not yet done, I just have to rivet it on to the fabric, but soon it will be :) now you have inspired me to try this :) it seams simpler because it involves far less hammering but I bet it isn t easy, I found the pattern in the description, and for the plywood it says enlarge it by 400%, this relates to A4 format paper, am I right??
The result is so impressive, you've done an amazing job ! I was also wondering if bluing was historically accurate. I don't know anything about it, so I'm asking, since I guess they had a way in he 14th to do so without our tools.
excellent video inspired me to have a go!
@ apieceoftofu: Yes, you are correct! Many 14th century and later 15th century piece were indeed case carburized wrought iron. But there are many examples of 13th century and earlier helmets that were not. The Pembridge Helm is a rare example where it might have been done (Williams, Dr. Alan R., Four Helms of the 14th Century, JAAS, 198, Vol. 10, No 3, p 80-102.)
However, being that this is intended as an introductory tutorial video, it was a bit much to try and fit into...plus the case carburization method was intended to create a layer of steel onto the wrought iron sheet. This is made of low carbon mild steel, but steel nonetheless. It seemed redundant and more expensive than the client was able to pay.
Thanks for the great info. Your great-helm in this video looks very similar to the Pembridge Helm that you mentioned. I just started my great helm tonight but I'm doing the flat-topped, more cylindrical "bucket" style because its my first time attempting plate armour and those versions have fewer plates to fit together and rivet in place. Mine is mild steel as well (probably around 0.1 carbon content), could you point me to some good guides for case carburizing with basic equipment? I might want to give it a shot.
apieceoftofu Learn how to walk before running. Case carburization is not a beginner level process and isn't a priority in early stages of learning armoursmithing. However, if you are determined...
The essential process is to take the low carbon steel and seal it in a metal vessel (an emptied and clean food can) along with carbon-rich organic material and then bake it at a red heat for a long period of time (longer than 24 hours). The carbon in the organic material bonds into the surface of the steel, creating a thin layer of higher carbon steel. The best material to use is charcoal dust, but I've seen blackpowder enthusiasts re-carburize the frizzens of their flintlocks using scrap leather.
Keep in mind, this process was used primarily to harden the edges of tools and weapons, but there's minimal evidence of this being used in armour from the time period (12th-13th centuries).
ua-cam.com/video/TKKhIOx707M/v-deo.html
Parker Brown
Awesome, ill keep all this in mind. Thanks for the help.
Wow, what a fantastic piece! Wouldn't wrought-iron helmets at least have been case-hardened though? I'm just not sure how comfortable I would be taking a blow to the head with only a low-carbon iron for protection.
I love how you balanced vision and protection, and the idea of a second smaller healmet instead of a full chainmail coif, since pierce protection will not protect me from a cracked skull. It looks mean. I don't get the same feeling from armour and weapons from the 15th century onwards. My period of interest would be from the times of Julius Caesar to 1400 AD.
Regarding the design, I wander if it could be made with a greater perforated surface, of only small holes; if perforations for the ears could be added; and if heat treating to a pring temper an appropiate steel would allow the use of 1mm sheet without loss of durability and protection (assuming 1mm thickness and spring temper for both the interior and great healmets).
+SalveMonesvol Well, first of all, this is not my design. The use of the great helm with a skull cap (cerveillier) is well documented, historically. The pierced holes closely match the ones used in the historical original. From what I've seen, there aren't any great helms that have perforated holes for the ears. As for heat treatment....this is a modern technique that's only possible with homogeneous high-carbon steels. A great helm and cerveillier like this would have been produced during the late 13th century and early 14th century. Most armour at that time was made of wrought iron and there were some that were case carburized to create a thin steel outer layer to the wrought iron sheet.
Una belleza felicitaciones!!!
Wow! Truly amazing outcome! You just got a new subscriber! I am looking forward to more of your videos! Keep up the amazing work!
Duke Abigor Thank you very much!
Parker Brown Hey! I have a quick question. I can not find any supplyers in my area that sells round headed rivets. (I am guessing that it is such a small market for it here in Norway.....) So I was wondering if you know of any websites that might sell any like the ones you are using on your helmet in this video because I think it makes the result look so much better than making rivets out of nails. I also can not say enough how much I love your work!
Duke Abigor www.rjleahy.com/Store/rivets/index.html
great work thanks for posting
itd be awesome if you could do a bascinet or armet video :)
Amazing. A great master you must be :)
+Przemek Krawczak I do not ever consider myself to be a master. I am and will always be an ever-learning student. Anytime I think I've "mastered" something, I find someone or something that proves me very wrong ;-).
Fantastic tutorial im now totally inspired :)
I would like to know all of the musical pieces on this video as well, thank you. These videos are awesome.
I'm very sorry, but I do not have all of that information.
+Parker Brown oh, that's a really darn shame. I could see me listening to the tracks not mentioned while working on my own armor. Well, thank you for taking the time to reply. I hope to see more videos in the future.
Try searching for Medieval music here. I was listening to some very long compilations but I'm sure that one of the songs here I remember from those videos. Search for 1 hour long compilations.
+magdanoz88 alright thanks
+Andrei Thanks
I like the idea of using non blued rivets on the blackened steel, or maybe a copper coated to give it a nice contrast to the black that will really pop before you get your head bashed in on the battle field lol
A fun way to copper plate steel is to dip the steel into hyper-saturated jeweler's pickle. The pickle (which is mostly sodium bisulfate) is used to clean sterling silver after soldering and tends to strip away copper. After the pickle is super saturated with copper, dipping clean steel into it electrolytically plates the steel, giving the visual effect of copper with the durability of steel. However, the coating is quite thin and will wear off with time.
Parker Brown That is something i didnt know! Thanks for teaching me something new today :D
Well done. Beautiful work.
Amazing tutorial! I made one two years ago, it was first one I ever made and came out quite ugly but you gotta start somewhere. This tutorial was a great inspiration! 👍
Also how resistant is that bluing? I mean did you cover it with anything else after bluing or does it stay like that on itself?
I'm glad I could help! The bluing helps prevent rust, but you still NEED to keep the helmet well oiled. I use personally use CLP gun oil on all of my kit. It the U.S. Army uses it for their weapons systems....good enough for me!
beautiful
Hello, I'm interested in the size of the helmet for fighting how much to pull out of my head so that I can put it over the hood of a cap
amazing work! deus vault
Are there historical examples where the insides are painted black? Beautiful work btw
I've personally seen historical examples with black painted interiors, but I cannot say that that paint was contemporary or if it was a later conservatory measure.
Thank you
4:15 the music is "miri it is while sumer ilasts"
what a masterpiece, no kidding.
My brother
I have heard that there was a second helmet under the great helmet I didn't believe it! What is that arrangement called ? I am intrigued, I haven't seen it anywhere else or realised what I was looking at. Did I see this carved into some the effigies where he was wearing a helmet and the great helm was at his feet?
I need to research, I love finding something new. It must have been hot in the in the Holy Lands!
+Bloodaxetheirritable Yes, there are multiple examples of the use of a great helm with an underneath cerveillier. However, this combination was in use after the Crusades.
Mr Brown many thanks for the reply. I have always considered myself well versed in this subject but like John Snow I realise that I know nothing.
+Bloodaxetheirritable Jon*
@ apieceoftofu: I actually do not have any expertise on making helmet crests, but I do know the artist Jeff de Boer has done some for various armourers.
GENIAL, gracias por terminarlo, quería saber como se hacia la red
Eres bienvenido .
Out of curiosity, would this be strong enough for full contact fight leagues or is this more decorative? I am looking to getting into smithing my own pieces and if this would do well then I would be over the moon. Also, this is an amazing piece and you are a very talented smith.
It depends upon what fight league you're talking about. Most SCA and BoN armour standards are actually made thicker and heavier than historical armour. Technically speaking, there are many pieces of real armour that survived actual combat that wouldn't be allowed on a modern tournament league.
This helmet was made for a client who fights in ARMA, but it wouldn't meet the standards required in BoN. It would meet standards required for SCA.
If you are getting into a specific group, find out what the standards are from the marshal of your local organization. They will direct you as to what you need to do for fighting equipment.
Great looking helmet (no pun intended), but the only unfortunate problem is the eyeslits....... They are far to fig, easy for an arrow or a sword/dagger to go through.
Awesome work! :-o
Hey Parker,
Just thought you might want to see some of the work your videos have inspired. I just finished my Great Helm tonight. Here's the pics. It was my first time working with steel sheet metal in an armoring context and im pretty happy with it for a first try (especially considering my less than ideal basement workshop). Your videos were invaluable. Thanks for all your hard work.
i.imgur.com/0taRUY8.jpg
i.imgur.com/qyyA9DZ.jpg
apieceoftofu awesome
Looks awesome.
Awesome! fucking awesome!
What's the cost of so many manhours? Must be quite a lot.
Could you teach me if ever in a point of time I have the money and time to come learn?
Feaisal Aldosary I am not accepting apprentices at this time.
not too shabby as they say.
Am I going entirely senile, with the memory span of a goldfish, however, in saying that you missed out a section on doing the wire-supported roll on the bottom?
(Also, for an accurate copy of the Pembridge, it would have two parallel lines on the nasal, about 3mm / 1/18th in from the edge, graved or chiselled into the metal. They're not particularly noticeable in most photos, but stand out if you handle the original, and they do alter the look of it in a subtle way.)
I omitted showing the lower rolled edge simply because I didn't want proof if it and wrong :-/. And thank you for sharing the information about the nasal!
did'nt want proof of it, in terms of not having evidence of it on the original, to show how it was done?
Because from what I could see, the roll was spot-on.
If it's the case that you just need source material for confirming that detail on the original, I'll see to it that you get some detailed shots of the helm that clearly show the wire inside. (conveniently, the very tip of the front has corroded, so you can see how it was done.)
J. G. Elmslie Honestly, it's just because I didn't want to film it in case it screwed up.
Serious skills
oculars are too wide, despite that; nice work :) !
What is the helmet that you have under the great helm?
The helmet underneath is a cervelliere that has been modified to include a protective fencing mesh and bargrill. The edge of the cervelliere is a maille aventail for protection to the neck and throat. Historically, great-helms were often worn with a cervelliere underneath. The cervelliere evolved into the bascinet during the late 14th and early 15th centuries.
What do you call it when the steel turns blue-ish? And what effect does it have on the strength?
Andreas Stie, heat bluing forms an oxide layer over the surface of the steel helping it resist rusting. While technically bluing and rusting are both oxidization processes, bluing gives a certain amount of protection because bluing undergoes a small volume change and remains firmly on the surface of the steel. Rust undergoes a large volume change and will flake off, resulting in corrosion. The blue appearance of the oxide film is often used as an indication of temperature when tempering high carbon steel after hardening, indicating a state of temper suitable for producing a springy quality. However, this helmet (along with most armour of the early 14th century) was NOT made of high carbon steel and, as such, does nothing to the steel’s composition in terms of springiness. Hardening and tempering spring steel armour was done in limited quantities in the late 15th century and throughout the 16th century. It’s done today in far greater quantities in modern SCA and BoN armour, but is not historically accurate.
Is there anything wrong with using a rivet gun and file, rather than shrooming the rivets with a hammer?
Yes. Pop rivets from a rivet gun will NOT hold up to use. They are horrendously inaccurate. Filing the ends off of the rivet will be exceedingly difficult. Instead, learn how to properly hammer rivet and a whole new world of potential will open up to you.
I gotta say the hammering on the rivet with leather strap is the most annoying part, also. Do you do wool filled padded lining?
I actually have a fellow martial artist who makes the padded linings to fit.
Parker Brown Does he do custom design?
EricPaz She does, but she's also booked for over a year :-/
Parker Brown Aw man, alrighty
Parker Brown Can you link to a picture of the padded lining? Would this be worn under the Cervelliere, or between the two? Would the leather suspension system be different for a helm not worn over a Cervelliere?
Respect!
Approximately how many square feet of sheet metal did you use?
Matthew Hobbs Not a whole lot, actually...I would say that 4 sq. ft. would be a generous estimate that allows for plenty of error.
How viable is armory as a career? If I could become very skilled in this trade, is there enough demand that I could make a living off of the work?
Joseph Basham definitely look at battle of the nations the medieval passions coming back. Great helms are a start but if you can make full body armor and more complicated helms like close helms, bascinet etc. there's a market for it. Good blacksmiths are rare these days so if your good and word spreads you're in business. Ave Maria!!!
Cool
OMG! Insane!
If using modern equipment was needed 42 hours to make a great helmet, using 1400 equioment would take like a week or maybe 4 days?
Denis Dangelo, that could very well be the reality of the time needed using only historical tools and methods.
Soldiers, back in the day must have had phenomenal neck and shoulder muscles to bear the weight of this lot?
Jimbojet The weight of historical armour is comparable to the weight of modern infantry equipment. Bear in mind a knight started training at the age of 7. Armour could be heavy to anyone physically unaccustomed to it. Knights were professional warriors and the use of armour was part of their profession just as a modern specialist operator in the military would be accustomed to the weight and demand placed by their equipment.
@ John Smith: Thank you, that means a lot :-).
How long would it take to do with the historical Method?
paul lima I would say that the historical production time could have been around 100 hours.
+paul lima It must have varied quite a bit between smiths as well, are we including the time it takes to make the steel? Do we know if smiths then made all their own steel or there were producers of steel who sold it to armour smiths etc?
+bren cav Later on in the late 13th and 14th centuries, there was likely a dedicated production of sheet metal that could be purchased by an armoursmith for the purpose of production. However, keep in mind that the VAST majority of armour produced at this time period was wrought iron, not steel. The wrought iron could be made from bloomery iron, but this was such a time-intensive process that I don't realistically see an armoursmith trying to produce their own stock in-house. It's just not cost effective.
Parker Brown It could well be that the armour smiths worked in teams and had various different productions going on at once in the forge. Possibly the apprentices and assistants did the brute force work of producing the wrought iron while the armoursmith overlooked and actually made the final armour.
@fggdf fdgdfg: 1) A rivet gun is very difficult to fit inside of the interior of a helmet. 2) Filing the interior of a helmet is very difficult. 3) The entire use of a rivet gun and file is unnecessary as the mushroomed interior heads are smooth and function perfectly well for the needs of the armour. 4) The use of a rivet gun was certainly not a historical option.
Why am i only seing this. Dude would you sell this to me
Kojel Memia I'm afraid this helmet was an already commissioned piece at the time so is thus unavailable.
Can you wear the helmet also without an Bascinet ?
Deus Vult, yes but it would need to be made smaller.
Parker Brown How much smaller i must print the patterns ?
Deus Vult, you need to measure your head and construct a wooden “dummy” similar to the wooden outline I give on the patterns page. Construct a new smaller wooden helmet outline and then modify each of the plate patterns off of that new helmet outline. Yes, this is a lot of work, but this is how good quality custom-fit armour gets made. You are not going to be able to just print out the given patterns by a reduced percentage and expect it to function on your head. You’ve got to take the time to adjust each part to fit and place your head in line with the oculars. Otherwise, it won’t work.
Parker Brown thank you
Parker Brown but is it important to make it smaller ?
I assume that this helm is absolutely period, I know of more modern techniques and tricks that I would have used myself. What I get a kick out of is that steel helmets of recent manufacture are still being issued to Soldiers in 2023!
👍👍👍
dont you have to harden it afterwards?
or is this accomplished by heat bluing?
I'm not using high-carbon steel, so hardening and tempering isn't possible or necessary. You can only harden and temper steels above 1040 (0.40% carbon content). Most historical helmets of this time were not made of steel, but rather wrought iron which cannot be heat treated.
Parker Brown so why bluing them then?
Heat bluing helps prevent rust and it looks nice.
Parker Brown thanks.
Can you do this with any steel?
You can blue any steel. Stainless can be difficult, but you can use a chemical patina for it.
how much do you sell this for?
The entire commission was about $2,000, but this was a very detailed and intensive piece that included riveted maille.
Okay, I will say that you're a great armour because I've tried this before and failed because I didn't measure right but I watched this series of videos and I really enjoyed watching you make the great helm but when you blued the helmet it made the great helm go from good to bad because no helmets in history were blue but I will say good job
+Ian Warren: Well, thank you for the compliment, but I will say there are hundreds of examples of blued historical helmets. One of the most notable examples is the blued and gilt armour of Sir George Clifford (1558 - 1605), Third Earl of Cumberland in the Metropolitan Museum of Art:
www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/23939
This type of bluing is evident in the great helm that is part of the funerary achievements of Edward, the Black Prince (1330 - 1376). The origin of Edwards name, "the Black Prince" is uncertain, but one theory comes from the darkened nature of his armour.
Excuse me, sir I think ur helm look bad ass but ur templates lack measurements & I was really looking forward to making my own, do u think u could hook me up with some dimensions?
Xharles, I did not include dimensions because the pattern needs to be modified to fit the individual’s head. I suggest printing the patterns full-size, transfer to poster board and making a mock version of the helmet and modifying the dimensions in the poster board before cutting it out in steel. You will be MUCH happier with the end result.
awesome but seems a bit huge
bigfoot makes weapons
Great helms were intended to be worn over another helmet called a cerveillier
Heat bluing protects from rust too?
It helps resist rust, but it's not rust proof. You still want to keep the steel oiled :-).
Another armourer told me he uses wax instead of oil. Which do you prefer? Would you ever consider making a gauntlet video?
terry halstead Oil attract dust and also will dry in time(depend on what type of oil you use). Wax can last pretty very time, provided if you don't scratch the wax on the surface away.
terry halstead I tend to use gun oil on my stuff, but I'm constantly re-applying it. A very good wax is Renaissance Wax.
👏👍👏👍👏👍👏
Работа отличная, только шлем не аутентичный. Так в частности широкие глазницы и неверный парашют.
Хмм
Красота
I´d prefer an Dargenhelm :P
You greath