I rarely “like” videos, probably around 10 videos for the last 4 or 5 years. I Liked this one because too many people seem to think a Tesla can’t be worked on at home. And this video needs to go around. Yes I understand it’s just a control arm, but still. I’ve seen too many people say this and that about Tesla cars can’t be worked on.
Now that there's a lot more on the road 4 years later, there's a lot more people figuring things out. More aftermarket parts are now available too. My issue with this part is Tesla calling it a normal wear item even with just 60k on it. They knew the design was faulty which is why it got redesigned.
Thank you Matt! My friend and I are half way through installing aftermarket adjustable front upper control arms and this video helped us when we got stuck a few times. It's great that Tesla released their service manual for free but it's missing lots of practical details that aren't obvious to a budding mechanic. Your videos are a great supplement. You earned a subscriber!
Used a grease needle to inject fresh grease into the rubber housing on the ball joint, then used a lot of silicone lubricant on the control arm joints where they connect to the vehicle body (looked a bit rusty). Still squeaking the next day, but drove about 100 miles and all squeaking/creaking is now gone! I removed the tire to get a little more room for the spray can, but i don't think it was necessary.
Thank you for this. I have never made a UA-cam video. With that in mind, I do not mean to be overly critical but I can’t see what you are doing because of lighting. Thank you for the great videos you have done in the past!
Fantastic video! Great explanations and encouragement, loved the whole process. I'm thinking of doing this to my MX17 eventually, it has started getting those creaking noises. But for the near future in just gonna do the syringe lubrication trick 😊
Matt. The reason you also need an alignment is if the old part is worn out enough to warrant replacement...given that the new part isn’t. Alignment will be different. Small changes in camber/caster have effect on toe angle which is the #1 concern for tire wear. Also for rust, fluid film is great. And it comes in a spray can
Tech Forum I’ll give you a pass (lol, no I do not think my opinion matters). Manufacturing tolerances are 100% wide enough on even the best made cars that the factory checks the alignment. (ESP toe). Since you said tires are about to get replaced I don’t really think it matters. But bolt marks lining up isn’t a replacement for an alignment IMO.
I’ve had mine replaced by Tesla at 30,000 km. Now the noise is back at 52,000 km. When the problem happened the first time, I ended up greasing the ball joint with a needle grease gun and the problem went away until Tesla came and fixed it. However, Keep in mind that it took about 160 km (100 miles) of driving for the grease to get into the joint and for the noise to go away.
Great work! It's cool to see the front end coming apart. I have a suggestion for your videos, if you need to add interlude/information in the future, instead of text over the screen or on a black background, throw in a quick audio or video clip from yourself while editing to add that info. It feels more natural that way and is easier to follow if you're more listening than watching (or are disabled with regards to seeing, reading, etc).
Audi did the same thing with the upper pivot bolts on my 2000 A4, but when put back together, I put the bolts in the opposite way to make it easier for future upper arm replacement.
If you refer to another video, always put a link to that video in the description or pin it in the comments. That way we can watch the jack stand or frunck video next without trying to search for it.
Hey Matt, I rarely comment on UA-cam vids so pardon me if I'm doing this wrong. Thanks for sharing another great adventure in Tesla DIY. I have a small rattle in my M3. Pretty minor, but just enough to bother me. Initially I thought it was coming from my dashboard. I took it to Tesla right before my first year ran out. They couldn't duplicate it, tried adding some extra glue to a speaker grille and sent me on my way. It rattled again on the way home. It's intermittent and seems to happen between 35 and 60 mph. I feel like it's some kind of thing where it only makes noise when the vibration resonance is just right. Eventually, I figured out that when it happens if I stick the tips of my fingers on my left hand up from the bottom between the steering wheel column and the dash it makes the rattle stop. I *think* it's the shroud around the steering wheel column. I've tried to figure out how to take it apart but aside from one screw on the bottom I didn't get anywhere. I figure if anybody knows how to take it apart, you would. Any ideas?
Tech Forum Can you explain why it was easier to go through eBay? I mean what were some of the hoops you might have encountered if you had go to Tesla? Does the National part chains have Tesla parts? (I’m sure they do, but don’t know it if they don’t have the correct part numbers and such.) I really haven’t gone to them, so I don’t know.
Great video - unfortunately I just paid Tesla Chicago almost $500 to do this for me about 2 weeks ago. Car was creaking like an old wooden stagecoach, only 11k miles. They would not warranty it as they conveniently blamed it on my tsportline springs (even though prior to noticing the lowering they let slip they had preemptively ordered the upper control arm as if to say it's a known problem). Anyway, I'm assuming the other side will eventually act up and now I know what to do. Or better yet I'll just head out to you and we can do it together! 🤓
I only losend the ball joint on the upper control arm and moved it around to spread out the greas that were already inside from the factory. That made the noise go away. So i didn't have to change the whole arm. It took me 10 min
Oh yeah, I don’t do notification bells on UA-cam, but you sir have top notch knowledgeable info on your vids. Bravo 👏🏽 consider the bell ticked 😄 . great videos !
Granted Tesla saying that the upper control arm is a normal wear and tear part as if it's normal to have those noises after just 60k is BS. That part was redesigned soon after all the complaints about the noise started coming in.
Had to have my upper control arm replaced recently. A bit too soon for my taste, but hey it's the first thing that needed fixing after 2.5 years. What I would love to know is if there's something I should've done, or should not have done, to avoid this.
It's a flaw in the control arm. Tesla wanted to charge me 2k to remove so many things that did not require changing. I was a former mechanic apprentice so i know after inspecting they were full of shit. There's nothing you can do just grease the ball joint every year of 2 and save yourself a ton of cash.
My M3 had the noise at maybe 7,000 miles. It went away just a few days before the mobile guy came. So, he did nothing. Now, at 15k I am in the middle of a almost 3 month wait for mobile service to come the 350 miles to my hometown of 100,000 people to fix it. I just asked them to order one for me. I will have to pay for it, install it and then they will void the warranty. All part of Tesla customer service. Warranty be gone in December anyway.
Model 3 has double wishbone suspension so the spring and shock are not a strut. A strut is structural and pivots around its top anchor, making the top wishbone unnecessary.
10:27 Yep, I checked the publicly available service manual from the Tesla website, and “snug” was the torque value that the engineers set for these safety critical fasteners. Keep up the good work!
Honestly 2 hours ain’t that bad, for a regular mechanic who doesn’t know nothing about Tesla’s or electric cars gets ones at there shop, they would honestly up charge and add more labor for the job.
I had Tesla replace my upper control arm last May and the new one is squeaking now. This time, I’m outside of the warranty. Tesla quoted me $332.50 and I have an appointment next week. Do you recall the part cost on this repair?
Have you had your squeak since new? I had mine since new, took it in around 5000 miles to have them look into it but they could never reproduce it. I took it back in recently to try again and they replaced both of my upper control arms. Not sure what exactly goes wrong on them, or if there's a new design or something.
Yeah, I really think he is mistaken . That is a 13mm bolt. They are close enough in size that mechanics use either 13mm or 1/2” interchangeably on the regular.
@@TechForumTesla I'm having the same symptoms as of about a month ago (1.5y old LR RWD, 18in wheels, 26,000mi). I am hoping to get it repaired under warranty next week. Is you're out of warranty?
@@lemongavine Lol. Yup. Matt pulled the Fonzie move in getting the tire out and back on. I missed Happy Days, back in the days. Those were the good old days.
Tech Forum ok, doesnt really matter what its called, still think tesla should have covered it, especially If the part was wrong from the beginning. What did Tesla say about it ?
@@michaelbergmark3549 I never asked. It is way out of warrantee. Besides, they already fixed my tiny rust spot when out of warrantee as a goodwill measure. I wasn't going to ask about this. It was easy enough to replace.
Tech Forum that's a ton of miles for a 19 month old vehicle Matt. I'll tell you this. You have a lot more patience than I and the general public about the control arms. I see no reason why they should go in 60k miles absent major pothole strike or perhaps auto racing. None. Seems like early adopters always get screwed. I'd be ranting and raving if my control arms did that. Being a long time Lexus owner, I have little patience for manufacturing related issues. This is clearly a defective part(s) issue.
@@Newzchspy probably so. The car is lowered and I use it for a commercial application. That gives me more understanding of mechanical issues than I would otherwise have.
@@heinovanwaelem8275 wow, aren't you a bundle of sunshine. Why are Teslas expected to be perfect? Geeze, Dude, do you bash other brands if they have an issue? Probably not. Some Tesla haters are just biased plain and simple.
Tech Forum Come on man. Do I bash other brands, of course i do. Last year i owned a new Mercedes-Benz E-Class. HVAC system sucks like hell, condensation in headlights, a lot of brake rotor problems and some other defects. Problems also came and went. Some people told me what a crap brand it was, i just said to them ‘you have no clue, it’s far worse than you think’. Should have seen their faces. That’s being honest. Tesla doesn’t have to be perfect, they just have to do better in some areas. That is my concern for future (second hand) owners. Why is that such a problem to point out something that others may have missed? I’m just being honest but some people just can’t handle the truth i guess. Some cars have weak points, it’s important that people point them out without being biased. And to be honest i said love the videos, isn’t that the goal of your channel? Independent of a product? Can’t see constructive comment even if it bites you in the face i guess? You could also just have answered ‘yeah, they could do better in that area’ to keep the church in the middle because we are both right. Much of success with the channel.
I THINK I HAVE SIMILAR ISSUE. BUT AFTER TESLA GUYS REPLACED UPPER CONTROL ARMS NOISE STILL THERE. WHEN I ASKED THEM THEY SAID THAT MY LOWER CONTROLS ARMS MAKE NOISE. STILL DON' T KNOW WHY THEY REPLACED UPPER FIRST, BUT NOT LOWER ONCE. STILL DRIVING WITH A NOISE, WASN'T READY TO SPEND THAT MUCH MONEY AT ONCE. WILL HAVE TO GO BACK BUT DIFFERENT LOCATION THIS TIME. STILL DON'T KNOW WHY THEY LEFT ME WITH SAME NOISE I CAME IN FOR..NOT HAPPY ABOUT THAT. AND NEVER HEARD OR SAW THE VIDEO THAT THOSE LOWER ARMS MAKE NOISES, EVERYONE SAYING JUST ABOUT UPPER ONCE.. NOISE IN MY TESLA M3 STARTED RIGHT AFTER 100000MILES MARK.
The other option to fixing the creak was to lube the ball joint. 500.00 +labor job vs 40.00 job plus labor. This is an old video, so it probably wasnt evident to the non mechanic butnthere are a lot of vods out now showing the fix opposed to getting fleeced by the Tesla "sevice" team.
Matt, did you use the Model 3 Jack pads?? BTW, that area in frunk is the shock towers. No reason that in lieu of accident that a car should need replacement of upper control arms. Tesla should be embarrassed. Ridiculous for a 19 month old car.
Maybe..... I don't have a spring compressor. Also, I would have lost more than three labor cost in lost work for my business. Lowering the car takes an entire day.
We have a solution that does not require replacement and or removal from the car. Silly to replace a entire control arm for a squeaky ball joint due to lack of grease.
Keep doing model 3 self repairs, if you continue showing how to do all the repairs to model 3 you’d be a beast on UA-cam
I rarely “like” videos, probably around 10 videos for the last 4 or 5 years.
I Liked this one because too many people seem to think a Tesla can’t be worked on at home. And this video needs to go around.
Yes I understand it’s just a control arm, but still. I’ve seen too many people say this and that about Tesla cars can’t be worked on.
Now that there's a lot more on the road 4 years later, there's a lot more people figuring things out. More aftermarket parts are now available too. My issue with this part is Tesla calling it a normal wear item even with just 60k on it. They knew the design was faulty which is why it got redesigned.
Thank you Matt! My friend and I are half way through installing aftermarket adjustable front upper control arms and this video helped us when we got stuck a few times. It's great that Tesla released their service manual for free but it's missing lots of practical details that aren't obvious to a budding mechanic. Your videos are a great supplement. You earned a subscriber!
@doates625, did you get the Meyle FUCA? if so, how is it?
@@goddarjc1 Unplugged Performance
They are not 1/2 inch.
They are 13 mm.
Unbolt the bottom of the column. No prybar needed. Lego.
13,15, 18, 21 mm.
Used a grease needle to inject fresh grease into the rubber housing on the ball joint, then used a lot of silicone lubricant on the control arm joints where they connect to the vehicle body (looked a bit rusty). Still squeaking the next day, but drove about 100 miles and all squeaking/creaking is now gone! I removed the tire to get a little more room for the spray can, but i don't think it was necessary.
I just did that (injecting grease) the other day! How’s yours holding up?
Good job. Out of interest, did you cut the boot off to see if the ball joint was dried out, rusted or had any play in it? Thanks, Phil
Thanks Matt, i have the same issue and my car is out of warranty (85.000 km). After seeing your vid i am confident enough to tackle this job myself...
You're an inspiration to all of us, Matt!!!! Well done! Sincerely Rick
Thank you for this. I have never made a UA-cam video. With that in mind, I do not mean to be overly critical but I can’t see what you are doing because of lighting.
Thank you for the great videos you have done in the past!
Fantastic video! Great explanations and encouragement, loved the whole process. I'm thinking of doing this to my MX17 eventually, it has started getting those creaking noises. But for the near future in just gonna do the syringe lubrication trick 😊
love the videos you made.
watched a few for repairing the suspension for my car and your videos are extremely helpful.
Thank you!
After if You loose any bolt of the arm, and finish the change, must check the tire positions in a workshop, and adjust if need. Great video thx!
Matt. The reason you also need an alignment is if the old part is worn out enough to warrant replacement...given that the new part isn’t. Alignment will be different. Small changes in camber/caster have effect on toe angle which is the #1 concern for tire wear.
Also for rust, fluid film is great. And it comes in a spray can
The ball joint in the control arm was not worn out. It was too tight. No play there at all.
Tech Forum I’ll give you a pass (lol, no I do not think my opinion matters). Manufacturing tolerances are 100% wide enough on even the best made cars that the factory checks the alignment. (ESP toe). Since you said tires are about to get replaced I don’t really think it matters. But bolt marks lining up isn’t a replacement for an alignment IMO.
@@MrCarCrazy it sure beats just bolting the arm on without any concern whatsoever.
Tech Forum I can’t argue with that. Used to love it when customers cared enough to do that.
I’ve had mine replaced by Tesla at 30,000 km. Now the noise is back at 52,000 km. When the problem happened the first time, I ended up greasing the ball joint with a needle grease gun and the problem went away until Tesla came and fixed it. However, Keep in mind that it took about 160 km (100 miles) of driving for the grease to get into the joint and for the noise to go away.
Great work! It's cool to see the front end coming apart. I have a suggestion for your videos, if you need to add interlude/information in the future, instead of text over the screen or on a black background, throw in a quick audio or video clip from yourself while editing to add that info. It feels more natural that way and is easier to follow if you're more listening than watching (or are disabled with regards to seeing, reading, etc).
Audi did the same thing with the upper pivot bolts on my 2000 A4, but when put back together, I put the bolts in the opposite way to make it easier for future upper arm replacement.
I wish that was possible here. No such possibility though.
If you refer to another video, always put a link to that video in the description or pin it in the comments. That way we can watch the jack stand or frunck video next without trying to search for it.
Good job but doesn't Tesla cover this under warranty? I had both of mine replaced under warranty.
Hey Matt, I rarely comment on UA-cam vids so pardon me if I'm doing this wrong. Thanks for sharing another great adventure in Tesla DIY. I have a small rattle in my M3. Pretty minor, but just enough to bother me. Initially I thought it was coming from my dashboard. I took it to Tesla right before my first year ran out. They couldn't duplicate it, tried adding some extra glue to a speaker grille and sent me on my way. It rattled again on the way home. It's intermittent and seems to happen between 35 and 60 mph. I feel like it's some kind of thing where it only makes noise when the vibration resonance is just right. Eventually, I figured out that when it happens if I stick the tips of my fingers on my left hand up from the bottom between the steering wheel column and the dash it makes the rattle stop. I *think* it's the shroud around the steering wheel column. I've tried to figure out how to take it apart but aside from one screw on the bottom I didn't get anywhere. I figure if anybody knows how to take it apart, you would. Any ideas?
That shroud snaps around thre steering column. The top part snaps down to the bottom.
@@TechForumTesla Thanks for the tip! Really appreciate what you do.
I had this same issue and fixed it by wedging a black foam piece between the steering column and shroud.
@@android04 different issue. Mine was the upper control arm.
Were you able to buy the new control arm directly from Tesla, or was it a salvage part?
I got it from Ebay. I could have bought a new one. But, it was easier to order a used one from ebay.
Tech Forum Can you explain why it was easier to go through eBay? I mean what were some of the hoops you might have encountered if you had go to Tesla?
Does the National part chains have Tesla parts? (I’m sure they do, but don’t know it if they don’t have the correct part numbers and such.) I really haven’t gone to them, so I don’t know.
@@TechForumTesla From where would you buy a new control arm? I have a hard time finding them.
@@stal5861 ebay
@@TechForumTesla I only find drivers side control arms on eBay. I need the passenger side. I do find used, but not any new once.
That’s a really neat jack-stand setup you have. What brand is it?
Great video - unfortunately I just paid Tesla Chicago almost $500 to do this for me about 2 weeks ago. Car was creaking like an old wooden stagecoach, only 11k miles. They would not warranty it as they conveniently blamed it on my tsportline springs (even though prior to noticing the lowering they let slip they had preemptively ordered the upper control arm as if to say it's a known problem). Anyway, I'm assuming the other side will eventually act up and now I know what to do. Or better yet I'll just head out to you and we can do it together! 🤓
I'm open to it. Email me matts@lhaservice.com
You are the MAN! Great job and thanks for documenting this and sharing
I only losend the ball joint on the upper control arm and moved it around to spread out the greas that were already inside from the factory. That made the noise go away. So i didn't have to change the whole arm. It took me 10 min
Oh yeah, I don’t do notification bells on UA-cam, but you sir have top notch knowledgeable info on your vids. Bravo 👏🏽 consider the bell ticked 😄 . great videos !
Tesla service just replaced both my upper control arms on my 2017 Model 3. $90 each and since it was a common issue the labor was free.
Granted Tesla saying that the upper control arm is a normal wear and tear part as if it's normal to have those noises after just 60k is BS. That part was redesigned soon after all the complaints about the noise started coming in.
Had to have my upper control arm replaced recently. A bit too soon for my taste, but hey it's the first thing that needed fixing after 2.5 years. What I would love to know is if there's something I should've done, or should not have done, to avoid this.
It's a flaw in the control arm. Tesla wanted to charge me 2k to remove so many things that did not require changing. I was a former mechanic apprentice so i know after inspecting they were full of shit. There's nothing you can do just grease the ball joint every year of 2 and save yourself a ton of cash.
I just bought a MOOG RK623789 from rock auto for the right side. Not yet installed. I paid about $80 (shipped) for it.
Wait.. You mean Tesla now sells you the parts direct instead of going in to an authorized Tesla Repair shop?
FYI 1/2 inch and 13mm are interchangeable.
Tesla arm or aftermarket? If after- what was gained please?
Would love to see a zerk on these parts of they are drying out like this
What happened to the days of a grease fitting?
My M3 had the noise at maybe 7,000 miles. It went away just a few days before the mobile guy came. So, he did nothing. Now, at 15k I am in the middle of a almost 3 month wait for mobile service to come the 350 miles to my hometown of 100,000 people to fix it. I just asked them to order one for me. I will have to pay for it, install it and then they will void the warranty. All part of Tesla customer service. Warranty be gone in December anyway.
do you have a video on how to get that frunk trim panel out? Will be helping a friend do this project in a few weeks.
I think he said he had another video on that
I had this problem (front passenger side) as the upper control arm squeaked really loud. Tesla fixed it in less than an hour.
Why didn't you put an aftermarket control arm so it didn't start rusting again?
Model 3 has double wishbone suspension so the spring and shock are not a strut. A strut is structural and pivots around its top anchor, making the top wishbone unnecessary.
I like this video. Are all bolts and nuts on the car in mm?
My upper control arm started doing this as well after 9000 miles. ( 2019 Model 3 ) How much do they charge if it no longer under warranty?
According to what I have seen on a FB post:
Parts: $330
Labor: $682.50
620 for parts and labor. Then another 175 or 205 for alignment. The higher number is if you have air suspension. Roughly 800 to 900 dollars
You should do a video on changing the SIM card for our of region Tesla owners
Whoa, whoa whoa...newcomer to your vids. Is your phone mounted in front of your steering wheel!?
Hello again. Later from the video, you told about the mm/us system. I have all my tools in mm. Where do I need us system?
10:27 Yep, I checked the publicly available service manual from the Tesla website, and “snug” was the torque value that the engineers set for these safety critical fasteners. Keep up the good work!
Where did you get the replacement from?
I have squeaking coming from the rear left on my 62K mile 2018 Model 3. Is that a probably a control arm?
nice video and i really would like to see the video on the Electric Jeep. that is something that i would like to do myself, just lack the knowledge.
Can you comment on alignment of the pivot. Other cars I've worked on, the angle of control arm when torqued down affects alignment.
Great video, I only with the camera at that distances and the fast forward it wasn't impossible to understand or see what you were doing
So the ball should be movable by hand? Cause I bought a new one and only way I can move it is putting my foot on it and using my body weight
How did you remove speed sensor wire without breaking clips? Is it just pry it out?
Had my Model 3, 23k with same issue. They took 2 days at their repair facility. Under warranty.
thank you great info yea 50/50 sounds odd
Where do you buy your parts?
Let's see you do the lower control arm 😜
Whoa, wait a minute. Hold up.... We need a video on this electric Jeep conversion you mentioned.
Sigh... I need to watch the whole video before placing a comment. Or at least 10 seconds. Lol
I am wondering if its also possible to do this on your driveway with the dual motor version. There is a driveshaft in the way...
I would bet the job would be identical.
Could you please tell me where I can buy the control arm? ty
I have the same issue man, It drives me crazy the squeaking.
Great job Matt
Honestly 2 hours ain’t that bad, for a regular mechanic who doesn’t know nothing about Tesla’s or electric cars gets ones at there shop, they would honestly up charge and add more labor for the job.
I had Tesla replace my upper control arm last May and the new one is squeaking now. This time, I’m outside of the warranty. Tesla quoted me $332.50 and I have an appointment next week. Do you recall the part cost on this repair?
What did you end up finding out?
Good job Matt
Great video 🔥
Have you had your squeak since new? I had mine since new, took it in around 5000 miles to have them look into it but they could never reproduce it. I took it back in recently to try again and they replaced both of my upper control arms. Not sure what exactly goes wrong on them, or if there's a new design or something.
Mine a 2021 and just got both replaced under warranty they were making noise at low speed going through bumps. Mine was making them at 12k miles lol.
Good video man!
1/2" hex size, telling me Tesla isn't using metric bolts? Hard to believe.
Yeah, I really think he is mistaken . That is a 13mm bolt. They are close enough in size that mechanics use either 13mm or 1/2” interchangeably on the regular.
Any concern on your side with regards to the steering shaft rust? That does seem kind of strange right?
Darren Orange Not at all, salt everywhere for road ice.
All of these kinds of parts on most all cars are not painted. The surface rust is totally normal.
Yeah anything bare metal like this will rust, like brake disks..
Could you explain what made you change this part or what where the signs to make you change
It was squeaking when turning our going over bumps.
@@TechForumTesla I'm having the same symptoms as of about a month ago (1.5y old LR RWD, 18in wheels, 26,000mi). I am hoping to get it repaired under warranty next week. Is you're out of warranty?
Where did you get the control arm?
Ebay
So, how did you get part? I thought it was very hard for an individual to get any Tesla part if you are not an authorized service center.
Ebay
@@TechForumTesla Ah....
@@EVMANVSGAS For a used item, yes.
Well done, Fonzie!
Tyran Mathurin I see what you did there 👍
@@lemongavine
Lol. Yup. Matt pulled the Fonzie move in getting the tire out and back on. I missed Happy Days, back in the days. Those were the good old days.
Tyran Mathurin he also starts every video with a thumbs up thing. Yeah, Happy Days was a great childhood show. My cousin named his dog Potsy.
Why are you doing this yourself ? Is your car no longer under warranty ?
Nope. Not under warrantee anymore.
Wasnt this covered under warranty?? Just curious....
I'm out of warrantee
@@TechForumTesla how can that be? A sway bar should last more than 2 years??
@@michaelbergmark3549 it is not the sway bar. It was the upper control arm (specifically the ball link part of the arm).
Tech Forum ok, doesnt really matter what its called, still think tesla should have covered it, especially If the part was wrong from the beginning. What did Tesla say about it ?
@@michaelbergmark3549 I never asked. It is way out of warrantee. Besides, they already fixed my tiny rust spot when out of warrantee as a goodwill measure. I wasn't going to ask about this. It was easy enough to replace.
So ... not a warranty repair?
Phillip Probst he’s over 50k miles already.
Mark Sanders more like 65k miles......
@@Newzchspy 69,853 miles.....
Tech Forum that's a ton of miles for a 19 month old vehicle Matt. I'll tell you this. You have a lot more patience than I and the general public about the control arms. I see no reason why they should go in 60k miles absent major pothole strike or perhaps auto racing. None. Seems like early adopters always get screwed. I'd be ranting and raving if my control arms did that. Being a long time Lexus owner, I have little patience for manufacturing related issues. This is clearly a defective part(s) issue.
@@Newzchspy probably so. The car is lowered and I use it for a commercial application. That gives me more understanding of mechanical issues than I would otherwise have.
You didn’t use a torque wrench?
I explained that in the video.....
Sorry I missed it. Is there any way the ball joint could be pressed out? I can’t tell in the video. I am on an iPhone.
@@mattstang808 nope. Its part of the arm.
I’m not happy that an upper control arm failed in only 70,000 miles. You’re pretty easy on your car. Hopefully this is a “one off” problem.
Evan Harris squeak != failed
Sean Z You’re right. It’s just badly designed.
@@heinovanwaelem8275 wow, aren't you a bundle of sunshine.
Why are Teslas expected to be perfect?
Geeze, Dude, do you bash other brands if they have an issue? Probably not. Some Tesla haters are just biased plain and simple.
Tech Forum Come on man. Do I bash other brands, of course i do.
Last year i owned a new Mercedes-Benz E-Class. HVAC system sucks like hell, condensation in headlights, a lot of brake rotor problems and some other defects. Problems also came and went.
Some people told me what a crap brand it was, i just said to them ‘you have no clue, it’s far worse than you think’. Should have seen their faces. That’s being honest.
Tesla doesn’t have to be perfect, they just have to do better in some areas. That is my concern for future (second hand) owners. Why is that such a problem to point out something that others may have missed?
I’m just being honest but some people just can’t handle the truth i guess. Some cars have weak points, it’s important that people point them out without being biased.
And to be honest i said love the videos, isn’t that the goal of your channel? Independent of a product? Can’t see constructive comment even if it bites you in the face i guess?
You could also just have answered ‘yeah, they could do better in that area’ to keep the church in the middle because we are both right.
Much of success with the channel.
Bravo !
Great car
I THINK I HAVE SIMILAR ISSUE. BUT AFTER TESLA GUYS REPLACED UPPER CONTROL ARMS NOISE STILL THERE. WHEN I ASKED THEM THEY SAID THAT MY LOWER CONTROLS ARMS MAKE NOISE. STILL DON' T KNOW WHY THEY REPLACED UPPER FIRST, BUT NOT LOWER ONCE. STILL DRIVING WITH A NOISE, WASN'T READY TO SPEND THAT MUCH MONEY AT ONCE. WILL HAVE TO GO BACK BUT DIFFERENT LOCATION THIS TIME. STILL DON'T KNOW WHY THEY LEFT ME WITH SAME NOISE I CAME IN FOR..NOT HAPPY ABOUT THAT. AND NEVER HEARD OR SAW THE VIDEO THAT THOSE LOWER ARMS MAKE NOISES, EVERYONE SAYING JUST ABOUT UPPER ONCE.. NOISE IN MY TESLA M3 STARTED RIGHT AFTER 100000MILES MARK.
Why the eff does a 2-3 year old car need an upper control arm? JFC!
Very annoying having a mix of USCU and metric on a vehicle. Just don't understand why they'd not pick one unit and stick with it.
Your a brave man, have you checked on the M3, recalls, is that one.
Lee Lowell he doesn't own an M3. He's got a Model 3. I'm sure BMW would be much more costly.
@@Newzchspy M3 means Model 3
toads4ever it's a registered trademark of BMW AG. Model 3 is Tesla. Let's not confuse the general public.
Newzchspy I understand that but many people call the Model 3 the M3 when typing it and talking to people that understand what it means.
The other option to fixing the creak was to lube the ball joint. 500.00 +labor job vs 40.00 job plus labor. This is an old video, so it probably wasnt evident to the non mechanic butnthere are a lot of vods out now showing the fix opposed to getting fleeced by the Tesla "sevice" team.
Matt, did you use the Model 3 Jack pads??
BTW, that area in frunk is the shock towers.
No reason that in lieu of accident that a car should need replacement of upper control arms. Tesla should be embarrassed. Ridiculous for a 19 month old car.
Newzchspy 80k MILES on the car, not really unusual at all.
The guys is replacing the upper control arm and removing the frunk, do you really think he doesn't know about using jack pads?
👍👍👍👍
Nice video. With that work you did, you could have lowered your car yourself and could have saved you $500+.
Maybe..... I don't have a spring compressor. Also, I would have lost more than three labor cost in lost work for my business. Lowering the car takes an entire day.
@@TechForumTeslaTrue that!
@@TechForumTesla you have take into account the time it takes you to drive to the shop. and then pick it up after it's done.
@@bobm4659 true
@picknngrinnin uh, yeah, and 8 hours of labor....
Not going to happen.
Poor camera work, can't see what you are doing
We have a solution that does not require replacement and or removal from the car. Silly to replace a entire control arm for a squeaky ball joint due to lack of grease.
What is your solution?
What’s your solution?
Junk
Tesla car not even 3years old and the control arm ruined already? Garbage cars
Why didn’t you use a compressor for your springs ?