Genius!!!! Can't believe I'm only seeing this video now. Thank you RJ. Your generosity of knowledge is admirable. (Velobase + Sheldon Brown) + RJ The Bike Guy = vintage bikes running perfectly + (satisfaction × 1000)!!!!! ✌
You do such terrific work. Thank you so much. So so helpful. I have a Trek 1500 circa 1988, with a uniglide freehub. I needed a new cassette and discovered that was not so easy. I found one on line from a shop, Now I have some options in case this one wears out. So nice. I have benefited from your videos on how to remove the cassette and freehub to service them Thanks again.
This helped me understand the inner workings of a 8spd freehub I am having issues with. Your disassemble tool is clutch and without the video I would not have known it was loosened clockwise, which I achieved with needle nose pliers splayed out. I found 25 bearings on the top and 27 bearings on the bottom, all the same size. The freehub and the pawl body remained attached to the hub, and I carefully removed the two pawls and cleaned them. I was unable to remove the entire freehub body from the hub because there was no inner 10mm (larger) hex grooves inside the assembly. Wheels are so weird, but I love learning about them and repairing them.
Another option is to file the cassette's wider spline to a normal spline and will fit uniglide (they are the same diameter and spacing apart from the wider spline), or mill one of the splines of the uniglide freehub to accept HG without modifications. But filing on the inside of the cassette is a 5min job with a file and a bench-vise so it's easy enough, but make sure to file the wide spline from the side that has a narrow gap. The HG cassette should be tighten by the last threaded cog. Either from the old cassette, or better a new fixed gear cog (it has same threading on the uniglide except for dura-ace uniglide). So the process goes like.. get a 7 or 8speed HG cassette. File the wide spline on all cassette cogs (except the last cog that won't be used anyway), mount all cogs except the last one on the free-hub, tighten the cassette with a 12 or 13T fixed gear cog (be sure to get 3/32 thin fixed gear cog and not the wide 1/8). In a pinch it may be locked by an old lockring from the adjustable cup of the BB of standard BSA threading. The uniglide has same threads (1.37"x24tpi)
Yeah, thats as stupid as it can get. Because you replace cassettes when they are worn out. What makes you think the smallest cog will not be worn out? You can not replace the cassette fully with this method, making the smallest cog not usable if its worn out completely.
But just to be explicit, if you have a Shimano branded hub with a Uniglide freehub attached, and are going to transplant a Hyperglide freehub onto that Shimano hub, you shouldn't need to do any disassembly like in this video unless you're not working with all Shimano parts OR you have some old Dura Ace parts somewhere in there because they were not always compatible with the lower series of hubs. I took a tricolor Shimano 600 hub and converted to 8/9/10-speed hyperglide with a more modern 105 hub without issue. I applaud the awesome work here, it's amazing, but I just want people to check their parts and compatibility before assuming they need to do something drastic.
Thanks so much for this comment. Had a 1050 series 105 Uniglide hub (right before Shimano switched to Hyperglide). Was able to swap a 1055 series 105 Hyperglide freehub body directly onto it. Much simpler than doing freehub cup/cone/shell surgery!
Thanks - works great! If you want to skip the grease/degrease step I used a plastic ring cut from an old analog film container which works perfectly as a gauge for the bottom ball bearings.
Great video thanks. You are correct, uniglide cassettes are Hard to buy and HG cassettes will not fit. But if some of your cogs on your uniglide cassette wear out you can replace them with HG cogs. - all you do is file the large tab down so it fits in the smaller slot on the uniglide hub.
Did not know that the threads and sizes comply with each other. Thank you a lot! Still have a hub with perfect bearings and sups, but havent thought of a way to make it work with casettes.
Very cool. I had a incident in which the back back wheel of my Specialized Expedition Sport( old guy crazy bike) was completely wrecked,could not be straightened.Since I have in my possession a like new pair of 1990 Araya wheels with all the bells and whistles including new tires I decided to use them. The problem was 7 to 8 speed and Old school Shimano Deore Lx FH-560 to Modern stock Shimano Hub on my specialized. I researched this problem and was told I was screwed as far as my idea went. But then this video woke me from my nap. Conversion will work on both counts. YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!! Sincerely; Steve A. Johnson
Great video, I was wondering for a long time if this is possible. With your instructions you make it easy for me! Looking forward to your upcoming videos, thanks!
Every time you pull out that Phil Tenacious Oil, I want to buy a bottle. It's mainly because of the color but it also just looks like it will last, based on the way it pours out. I finally sprang the ten bucks and LOVE using it!
Hi, your videos have much quality, are very good, and i learn much because i have 3 bikes and sometimes i fixed bikes of my family. Thank you for the videos :)
Instead of doing that, I would just cut those narrow inner splines from hyper glide sprockets and fit on uni glide freehub, but hey! Nice to see a handyman who doesn't afraid of challenges!
Great video, and it couldn't come at a better time since I just got a 30 year old bike (in parts) wit a 6 speed uniglide system. Thanks a lot, I'll go hunt down a 7 speed hub this weekend :) Not sure about the usage of oil though. Might get messy and it only adds a little resistance when coasting.
Thank you, RJ. I'm planning to convert 7s UG to 7s HG. This will be with Shimano Tri-Color 6400. Since cog spacing appears to be the same, I think I'm going to be good with the 6400 shifters, right? What else will I need to change? Chain?
excellent but I have several uniglide cxssettes, so for me its easier to convert a hyperglide cog into a uniglide cog by grinding off the extra tab, if I wear out cogs
I’ve done this same thing. I disassembled an 8-speed cassette and filed the individual cogs to allow me to mix and match 5 of them to get 6 speeds (with the locking cog). But I’ve considered upgrading to brifters, which would require a 7-speed cassette. I figured there was a way to convert the Uniglide and have hung onto an extra Hyperglide freehub for that very reason. Thank you!
Very helpful video as always RJ. Wondering about universal freehubs - seen late 80’s early 90’s. How does the body length compare to a stand-alone hyperglide. In my case, will switching a 6 speed universal freebody (XT) to a 7 speed universal (from the RX100 Groupset). Will it have the same ability to handle 8 & 9 speeds? Cheers
I actually have both freehub bodies: 6 speed uniglide and 7 speed hyperglide. Now you just gave me an idea. But I may have to do some research a little bit. I think it may be possible to convert my shimano exage 7 speed hyperglide freehub to an 8, 9, 10. Won't know until I try.
Hi, I have a Shimano Dura ace 7402 with Uniglide body, Is this the same process to convert to hyperglide? I read in some forums you need a special tool to remove dura ace freehub body?
A Shimano 600 Tricolor 126mm 6400 or 6401 FH Hyperglide takes a 10sp Ultegra cassette. Just have to use a lockring with deeper length threads like found on Sram for example.
OMG, i use a shimano uniglide freehub manufactured in Jan 1980. Found it last year under dust in old garage. Realy cool thing, but the dust cap is missing.
I've only taken a 4 or 5 Shimano Hyperglide freehubs off their wheel hub. I have yet to encounter any with that large external spline pattern like yours. All the ones I've encountered (so far) have the same internal 12 spline pattern like the Uniglide you used that would fit that same hub. Though my experience is limited (so far) that style seems pretty ubiquitous, so why didn't you just use one of them and save all the trouble? ^ ^ Yes, I know, still, very cool conversion well worth the video. Surely somehting I would do just for experimentation, fun and "simply because it's there and I can." I've too had to futz around with those fixed cone nut 1 and 2 mil bushings/spacers, but only when I service my 70's Shimano FFS freewheel, which is built into the crankset rather than the rear sprocket/"freewheel*". After decades of wear I had to remove a mil or two just get rid of excess play. * Not really a freewheel, in the traditional sense. Each individual gear does independently freewheel, with each having its own pair of little pawls. But that action is only as a secondary backup for safety reasons, esp. JIC your pant leg (or worse) gets sucked into in the crankset. Has yet to ever happen, or be needed...knock on wood. BTW, been trying to get some old JoyTech freehubs off their wheel hub. One an actual Joytech, the other a sort-of Shimano clone (looks like Shimano on the outside but all JoyTech inside). They both have the annular bolt the is splined for a a 12 mm hex from non drive side end (as opposed to Shimano's 10mm on the drive side). Yet to get a hold of a proper 12mm wrench to do it.. Really wondering if the freehubs are the same as my others once I get them off, or more like the inverse splined hyperglide one you were using here..
Question for you, on one video servicing a freebody hub you used grease and on this video you used Phil Wood's oil, which is preferable? Grease or oil?
Hi there - I just finished converting a Shimano 600 7 speed uniglide hub to a hyperglide hub following your video. I used a Shimano FH-RM30 7 speed hub which looks very similar to your hub. So far so good! The original uniglide dust cap (along with the body) was replaced with the hyperglide version. Now, however, the rubber seal on the original axle cone will not work with the new dust cap (which is narrower than the original). I can take the rubber seal off but then the bearings will be exposed. Do you know what type of axle cone will work with the FH-RM30 dust cap to seal the bearings? Thanks!
If you need to replace thsoe really thin spacers, you won't find them under "washers". They are ring shims. McMaster-Carr has them in any size you need.
The bearings in axles are under a lot more load than the ones in a free hub. They bear the weight of rider and are turning constantly while riding. The bearings in a freehub really aren't under load much at all. They aren't rolling as you pedal. They only roll while you are coasting and the free hub is spinning freely. Grease will work, but it can also clog up the pawls. Oil is generally better for freehubs and freewheels.
My freehub was a bit different. When I pulled it from the wheel, the pawls remained on the wheel hub instead of coming with the freehub. It all seems the same otherwise.
I have a NOS SOLID AXLE (not QR) XT 7 sp. Uniglide rear hub and a NOS 7 sp. Hyperglide M-732 freehub. Would you be willing to do the transplant for of course $? Also, Rivendell now has wide range 7 sp. cassettes!!! 13-42, 11-36, for example, so finally doing this really makes sense for me.
Thanks for the video I clicked on because i just wanted to know what is the difference between the two :) You'll have to excuse me if you explained this in the video, i didn't have time to watch gave it a fast liked and straight to comments :)
Uniglide is older technology that where the smallest cog screws on as a lock ring. Hyperglide have a separate lock ring. The splines on the free hub are also different.
Nice to know this is why your channel is brilliant your keeping it old school showing us all the tricks of the trade, and also throwing in a few modern videos have both packages going for ya. Thanks for the response looking forward to you future videos :)
Well I had another careful look at the hub and there was no way to use a hex key so I figured it must be pressed on so I made a spacer out of 40mm plastic waste pipe, just shorter than the free hub then used the small screw on cog with a chain whip to pull the hub off and after a few turns it popped off. There is a tube coming out of the hub that the free hub is pressed onto which has a thicker base. this is too big for the hyperglide free hub so I filed it down which took a couple of minutes. the new freehub then was a direct fit and works fine with no need to switch bodies. works brilliantly.
I have one of these stinkin "press on" uniglide freehubs as well. I will try your method of removal and see if I can make it work! I tried just wedging it out with a hammer and wedge, but couldn't get it.
Hard to see why you were adding the spacers (13:30-) can u explain what was the cause or need? my wording for the question i know is poor but im sure you know what you did and thus what i am asking for further explanation. As always a great content & well presented video.
is mineral spirits the same as mineral turpentine? (mineral turps used for cleaning brushes after painting) also can i use kerosene for cleaning metal/plastic parts?,or is that a bad idea?
as i understand it kerosene is a bi product of the petroleum distilling process,also some plastics do too,i guess using kerosene could soften or make some plastics brittle.
Shrug. If you can find a freehub that will fit. And you will need a longer axle. And you will need to redish the wheel. Who knows. Go buy a 10/11 speed wheel maybe. Or hub, and build a wheel.
Howdy once again! As it turns out, mixing the Shimano 600 7 speed uniglide freehub internals and the FH-RM30 hyperglide shell did not work for me. The FH-RM30 freehub unit is the same as what is in your video. Namely, it has the protruding base at the bottom which does not fit standard Shimano hub bases. Using the FH-RM30 necessitates swapping parts as you did in your video. The reason why my effort did not work is due to the peculiarity of the 600 uniglide freehub which has very nice polished races inside but does not allow the FH-RM30 dust cap to sit properly. Furthermore, the FH-RM30 dust cap has a narrower opening which meant spending a lot of time on the internet looking for a substitute axle cone and dust cap that would fit. HOWEVER, as it turns out, Shimano has another 7 speed freehub for the STX-RC (mfr part # Y3AP98020) which has the same base as the Shimano 600 uniglide and in fact is probably the standard base that most freehub units will fit. This freehub fits perfectly on the Shimano 600 hub base - no swapping freehub parts necessary and all that. Furnthermore, the dust cap on the STX-RC freehub body has a larger opening so that the 600 uniglide axle cone and seal fit perfectly. So I'm now back in business upgrading my wifes 1987 Sekai mixte (with 126mm rear spacing)!
Herbert Harris By the way, although my first effort failed I learned a lot about freehubs due to your excellent video! I also made your freehub tool which I now have in my tool kit.
Hey, I have a 7sp uniglide 600 wheelset I'm trying to convert to hyperglide. What you're saying is that the freehub body you mentioned doesn't require taking it apart?
+Alex Korogod Alex - sorry for responding so late! The specific rear hub I used is a NOS Shimano FH-6400, which has 126mm rear spacing and comes with a 7 speed uniglide freehub body. The FH-6400 is also called a 600, so it may be the same rear hub. The 7 speed STX-RC freehub body will work as is (no modifications necessary) with the FH-6400. As a side note, once I converted the freehub body and built the wheels, I then took a 11-34 9 speed cassette and removed the 11 cog (Sheldon Brown talks about this). That cassette will now fit on the 7 speed STX-RC freehub body. In a nutshell, I am using 9 speed shifters, running 8 speeds, on a 7 speed freehub body. Works great! I went this route since 9 speed shifters I think are better quality than the 7-8 speed stuff. I wanted to keep the rear spaced at 126mm because the frame is a small mixte that has 2 sets of seat stays (along with the chain stays). Spreading that seemed problematic. Once again, sorry for the late reply.
It's fine. I have the same hubs on a wheelset that I have. I bought a '92 Schwinn paramount but it came with a cheap nameless weinneman wheelset, so I wanted to swap it out. I ended up doing what you did, just with a 7 speed 105 groupset. I'd like to upgrade it to 8 or 9 speed, but I'm too busy with college.
Is the cup-cone mechanism used for holding the freehub on the same on the STX-RC? Or does it require a 10mm allen key? It has to be the same in order for it to work, right?
Hi Shyflirt. Thanks for the video. I was trying to find a video that showed me how to disassemble a HG freehub and it seems there are still more variations within it as mine has sealed bearings inside (2010 Specialized Allez Comp). I was glad to see the homemade freehub removal tool because I think that's where I'm stuck. All I see is the sealed bearing and the two notches behind it where your tool would fit. Looks like I'll have to make one of those to go further. Do you have any online shimano manuals that would match my HG freehub? I've scoured the internet to no avail. Cheers.
The sealed bearing may be for the wheel, and not the hub. Still, I have not seen one of those. I work on more older bikes than newer ones. You wont find a lot of info on disassembling the freehub as it's not meant to be taken apart. It is generally replaced. I am guessing that once you get the sealed bearing out (maybe a bearing puller), the resat of the disassembly will be similar to what it is in my video.
Hi! Really interesting video! May I ask, could this be done to convert an old 7 speed to an 8 sp hub? I really don't want to change the whole set, (i couldn't afford the same quality components) then I would only need to change shifters. Thanks!
Exactly, i have a set of shimano hg50 from the early 90's, and the rear hub ratchet is starting to wear off, so i was thinking about replacing only the rear hub but the bikeshop guy won't sell just the one i need. After watching your video i was wondering wether i could get a used hub, take it apart and revamp my wheel without changing the whole hub set. This could mean a significantly less expensive upgrade. Thanks! And greetings from argentina.
Alejandro De Luca Then yes, and no. The problem is that while you can convert a 7 speed freehub to an 8/9/10 speed freehub, the 8 speed is wider and when mounted on the 7 speed wheel, will stick out farther than the axle. You can try cleaning and lubing it: How To Fix A Sticky Freehub or if that doesn't work, try overhauling it and replacing the bearings: Freehub Body Disassembly/Assembly
I have a 7-speed uniglide freehub. Can I use a 7-speed hyperglide freehub for the conversion? How about an 8-speed hyper glide freehub? How about any other speed freehub? Any thing else to make sure the conversion will work?
+RJ The Bike Guy Thank you. The bike mechanics at my LBS said they could do the conversion. Now I just need to find a 7-speed free hub! It's not so easy to maintain a vintage bike.
Waaait. I was under the impression that a Hyperglide freehub would interface just fine with a Uniglide hub, and that basically all Shimano was the same (except for some odd DA stuff and a few others). I'm looking at an Ultegra hub right now that is definitely not Uni but has the same inner spline interface (as opposed to the outer teeth of your Hyper fh) as your Uni. Am I missing something here?
Nope. The HG cassette has the wide tooth and there is no wide gap on the UG freehub for it to fit into. And there is no place for the lock ring to screw into. You could possibly remove the dustcap and , but the cassette wouldn't fit. There was a middle ground UG freehub that fit both UG and HG cassettes. This was not one of them. Not sure exactly what you are describing. Post a photo on my FB page so I an see it.
shyflirt1 Sorry, I meant the interface between the freehub and the hub - your UG hub has the inner splined area and your HG has the outer splined area. Your HG hub reminds me of the American Classic ones. My thought was that all modern (er, modern-ish) Shimano hubs used the same connection between the hub itself and the freehub (back side of the freehub, like at 1:46-1:48). I'm new to this whole "swapping freehubs" thing so I might be totally confused.
alecjahn That part varies with the wheel. You can't just buy an HG freehub and slap it on a wheel. You have to find a freehub compatible with your wheel hub.
Sir i have my old uniglide hub body and the cone cup is broken im planning to buy a new modern freehub body so i can replace the cup cone from the new type to my old hub body , i saw your video and i think it has the same size as mine and both freehub body has the same size of CUP CONE , i just want to ask what is the exact size of FREEHUB BODY on your video. Sir please reply sir! Thank you sir! Been watching your videos about bikes and everything.
why to use oil on iron ball instead of grease?i thougt that grease is most suitable to lubricate the iron ball,because i think grease cannot be easily wash off by water!
dude...i have a suntour perfect freewheel. I know its not a cassette but it uses a locking cog....I simply want to remove the cogs to remove rust and clean them thoroughly, but I cant get the small cog off no matter how hard I pull with 2 opposing chain whips…. Any tips?
I have a video on how to clean and lube a freewheel: ua-cam.com/video/eDdSpIPt5qk/v-deo.html Actually removing the cogs from the freewheel body is possible, but they are on there very tight and you are apt to break your chain whips first. They used to make solid wrenches to dismantle the cogs. But generally removing the cogs is not necessary. If it's just a little surface rust, clean it off the best you can. Apple Cider Vinegar might do it. If it's a lot of rust, just replace the freewheel.
Can I transplant a 7speed hyperglide hub and remove a 8speed hyperglidehub to make it a 7speed hub the rear axles are about the same length the hubs are identical LX DEORE
Hi RJ, I wanted to swap my UG freehub to a HG freehub as per your video here.Shimano XT M732 HG 7 speed will take either UG or HG and I thought I'd double check with you to make sure it would be an appropriate new freehub for the swap. Can you confirm this? .......kind regards, aaron
Hi I'm very interested at this video cause I cannot find the right tools to take off the Uniglide hub I had on my older Shimano 80's Araya wheels. I see that u use a socket like tools with 2 tab extending out that fits right into the top cup of the Uniglide hub. Where can I buy one? What's the name/model of the tools? Please let me know ok. Thanks!
And that tool is too DISASSEMBLE the free hub. If you just want to remove to the freehub, that is covered in this video: ua-cam.com/video/f19BGYc5ysA/v-deo.html
I have a 130mm OLD XT rear hub with a uniglide/hyperglide 7 speed combo freehub. I can use either. It is 30mm which means i can only run a 7sp cassette. If i replace the rear axle with a 135mm axle (148) to fit my frame can i then run a more modern 135mm freehub on it and be able to run 8 or 9 speed? in other words, if your axle was longer in this video (assuming it was 130mm) could you have put the more modern 35mm freehub on there to allow for 8 or 9 speed hyperglide cassettes?
Get it welded? If you want to ghetto rig it, just take it apart, clean out all the grease with mineral spirits or automotive brake cleaner and dump a bunch of JB weld in there. Worse case scenario you have to get a new hyperglide freehub and swap it out.
Hi I've just started this conversion of a 6 speed uniglide freehub to a 7 speed Hyperglide. I've got the hyperglide freehub off the hub it was attached to using the 10mm hex wrench but when I came to remove the Uniglide hub the wrench will not fit and in fact there doesn't seem to be any flats inside the hub. Is there an alternative mounting, I've heard early Uniglides didn't have the 10mm bolt but were pressed on. If this is the case how do i get the hub off? Is this likely to be the type of hub I have? Thanks
For My Old bianchi with six speed uniglide the following part seems to fit. SHIMANO FH-MC18 Genuine Bicycle Parts Freewheel Body & CA - Y3A398020. Anyone tried?
Hello. How many and what kind of spacers are there? What do they really do? On my hub I found even 4 spacers - one thick, one half thinner and two again half thinner. Why so many? Did my craftsman put to many of them that's why water gets inside my hub aaaaaaall the fucking time. Hub are rusted already and can't find new one - need to change the wheel. Thank you.
Actually I put comment on wrong video. Should be this - ua-cam.com/video/X9gIEG1db0s/v-deo.html. My hub is different so I don't know how to decide how many spacers do I need. My problem - water gets inside a freehub body. Why? Thanks ;) for reply.
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What could be inside the DT Swiss Hügi Hub?
Genius!!!! Can't believe I'm only seeing this video now. Thank you RJ. Your generosity of knowledge is admirable. (Velobase + Sheldon Brown) + RJ The Bike Guy = vintage bikes running perfectly + (satisfaction × 1000)!!!!! ✌
Still using the same combo lol
You do such terrific work. Thank you so much. So so helpful. I have a Trek 1500 circa 1988, with a uniglide freehub. I needed a new cassette and discovered that was not so easy. I found one on line from a shop, Now I have some options in case this one wears out. So nice. I have benefited from your videos on how to remove the cassette and freehub to service them Thanks again.
This helped me understand the inner workings of a 8spd freehub I am having issues with. Your disassemble tool is clutch and without the video I would not have known it was loosened clockwise, which I achieved with needle nose pliers splayed out. I found 25 bearings on the top and 27 bearings on the bottom, all the same size. The freehub and the pawl body remained attached to the hub, and I carefully removed the two pawls and cleaned them. I was unable to remove the entire freehub body from the hub because there was no inner 10mm (larger) hex grooves inside the assembly. Wheels are so weird, but I love learning about them and repairing them.
Some of them have the nut round the back: you unscrew in from the non- drive side.
Another option is to file the cassette's wider spline to a normal spline and will fit uniglide (they are the same diameter and spacing apart from the wider spline), or mill one of the splines of the uniglide freehub to accept HG without modifications.
But filing on the inside of the cassette is a 5min job with a file and a bench-vise so it's easy enough, but make sure to file the wide spline from the side that has a narrow gap.
The HG cassette should be tighten by the last threaded cog. Either from the old cassette, or better a new fixed gear cog (it has same threading on the uniglide except for dura-ace uniglide).
So the process goes like.. get a 7 or 8speed HG cassette. File the wide spline on all cassette cogs (except the last cog that won't be used anyway), mount all cogs except the last one on the free-hub, tighten the cassette with a 12 or 13T fixed gear cog (be sure to get 3/32 thin fixed gear cog and not the wide 1/8).
In a pinch it may be locked by an old lockring from the adjustable cup of the BB of standard BSA threading. The uniglide has same threads (1.37"x24tpi)
Yeah, thats as stupid as it can get. Because you replace cassettes when they are worn out. What makes you think the smallest cog will not be worn out? You can not replace the cassette fully with this method, making the smallest cog not usable if its worn out completely.
Simply amazing! Thanks for all the effort in making these videos.
But just to be explicit, if you have a Shimano branded hub with a Uniglide freehub attached, and are going to transplant a Hyperglide freehub onto that Shimano hub, you shouldn't need to do any disassembly like in this video unless you're not working with all Shimano parts OR you have some old Dura Ace parts somewhere in there because they were not always compatible with the lower series of hubs. I took a tricolor Shimano 600 hub and converted to 8/9/10-speed hyperglide with a more modern 105 hub without issue. I applaud the awesome work here, it's amazing, but I just want people to check their parts and compatibility before assuming they need to do something drastic.
Thanks so much for this comment. Had a 1050 series 105 Uniglide hub (right before Shimano switched to Hyperglide). Was able to swap a 1055 series 105 Hyperglide freehub body directly onto it. Much simpler than doing freehub cup/cone/shell surgery!
Thanks - works great!
If you want to skip the grease/degrease step I used a plastic ring cut from an old analog film container which works perfectly as a gauge for the bottom ball bearings.
RJ YOU ARE AMAZING......THANX FOR YOUR EXPERTISE IN BIKE MECHANICS.....☆☆☆☆☆
Great video thanks. You are correct, uniglide cassettes are Hard to buy and HG cassettes will not fit. But if some of your cogs on your uniglide cassette wear out you can replace them with HG cogs. - all you do is file the large tab down so it fits in the smaller slot on the uniglide hub.
Did not know that the threads and sizes comply with each other.
Thank you a lot! Still have a hub with perfect bearings and sups, but havent thought of a way to make it work with casettes.
Very cool. I had a incident in which the back back wheel of my Specialized Expedition Sport( old guy crazy bike) was completely wrecked,could not be straightened.Since I have in my possession a like new pair of 1990 Araya wheels with all the bells and whistles including new tires I decided to use them. The problem was 7 to 8 speed and Old school Shimano Deore Lx FH-560 to Modern stock Shimano Hub on my specialized.
I researched this problem and was told I was screwed as far as my idea went. But then this video woke me from my nap. Conversion will work on both counts. YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!! Sincerely; Steve A. Johnson
Truly amazing
wow that was awesome job ! I like the part when you change the grease for oil :)
Great video. Well done.Always wanted to see inside
Great video, I was wondering for a long time if this is possible. With your instructions you make it easy for me! Looking forward to your upcoming videos, thanks!
just received my HG freehub this week, so it's the video i need! :)
Every time you pull out that Phil Tenacious Oil, I want to buy a bottle. It's mainly because of the color but it also just looks like it will last, based on the way it pours out. I finally sprang the ten bucks and LOVE using it!
It's thick and sticky.Great for some applications.
Thank you for this video and for all of the others. I have watched them all and have learned a great deal!
Hi, your videos have much quality, are very good, and i learn much because i have 3 bikes and sometimes i fixed bikes of my family. Thank you for the videos :)
Instead of doing that, I would just cut those narrow inner splines from hyper glide sprockets and fit on uni glide freehub, but hey! Nice to see a handyman who doesn't afraid of challenges!
That's a nice freehub change, shyflirt1. I like that. And the video, too.
Great video! Do you know if such a swap could also be done from a Uniglide to a Uniglide-compatible Hyperglide freehub?
Great video! Thanks for the step by step!
Great video, and it couldn't come at a better time since I just got a 30 year old bike (in parts) wit a 6 speed uniglide system.
Thanks a lot, I'll go hunt down a 7 speed hub this weekend :)
Not sure about the usage of oil though. Might get messy and it only adds a little resistance when coasting.
I bought a brand new "Shimano RM30 7-Speed Freehub Body" on ebay for about $17 with shipping.
Thank you, RJ. I'm planning to convert 7s UG to 7s HG. This will be with Shimano Tri-Color 6400. Since cog spacing appears to be the same, I think I'm going to be good with the 6400 shifters, right? What else will I need to change? Chain?
excellent
but I have several uniglide cxssettes, so for me its easier to convert a hyperglide cog into a uniglide cog by grinding off the extra tab, if I wear out cogs
I’ve done this same thing. I disassembled an 8-speed cassette and filed the individual cogs to allow me to mix and match 5 of them to get 6 speeds (with the locking cog). But I’ve considered upgrading to brifters, which would require a 7-speed cassette. I figured there was a way to convert the Uniglide and have hung onto an extra Hyperglide freehub for that very reason. Thank you!
Very helpful video as always RJ. Wondering about universal freehubs - seen late 80’s early 90’s. How does the body length compare to a stand-alone hyperglide.
In my case, will switching a 6 speed universal freebody (XT) to a 7 speed universal (from the RX100 Groupset). Will it have the same ability to handle 8 & 9 speeds? Cheers
I actually have both freehub bodies: 6 speed uniglide and 7 speed hyperglide. Now you just gave me an idea. But I may have to do some research a little bit. I think it may be possible to convert my shimano exage 7 speed hyperglide freehub to an 8, 9, 10. Won't know until I try.
wow! I always wanted to know how to do this... thanks man!
Is the Shimano 200gs 7speed use the hyperglide?
Hi, I have a Shimano Dura ace 7402 with Uniglide body, Is this the same process to convert to hyperglide? I read in some forums you need a special tool to remove dura ace freehub body?
is this mod possible going from hyper glide to micro spline?
Nice, do u think u can convert to 10 speed if u change the axle as well, so the freehub doesnt stick out?
A Shimano 600 Tricolor 126mm 6400 or 6401 FH Hyperglide takes a 10sp Ultegra cassette. Just have to use a lockring with deeper length threads like found on Sram for example.
OMG, i use a shimano uniglide freehub manufactured in Jan 1980. Found it last year under dust in old garage. Realy cool thing, but the dust cap is missing.
I've only taken a 4 or 5 Shimano Hyperglide freehubs off their wheel hub. I have yet to encounter any with that large external spline pattern like yours. All the ones I've encountered (so far) have the same internal 12 spline pattern like the Uniglide you used that would fit that same hub. Though my experience is limited (so far) that style seems pretty ubiquitous, so why didn't you just use one of them and save all the trouble? ^
^ Yes, I know, still, very cool conversion well worth the video. Surely somehting I would do just for experimentation, fun and "simply because it's there and I can." I've too had to futz around with those fixed cone nut 1 and 2 mil bushings/spacers, but only when I service my 70's Shimano FFS freewheel, which is built into the crankset rather than the rear sprocket/"freewheel*". After decades of wear I had to remove a mil or two just get rid of excess play.
* Not really a freewheel, in the traditional sense. Each individual gear does independently freewheel, with each having its own pair of little pawls. But that action is only as a secondary backup for safety reasons, esp. JIC your pant leg (or worse) gets sucked into in the crankset. Has yet to ever happen, or be needed...knock on wood.
BTW, been trying to get some old JoyTech freehubs off their wheel hub. One an actual Joytech, the other a sort-of Shimano clone (looks like Shimano on the outside but all JoyTech inside). They both have the annular bolt the is splined for a a 12 mm hex from non drive side end (as opposed to Shimano's 10mm on the drive side). Yet to get a hold of a proper 12mm wrench to do it.. Really wondering if the freehubs are the same as my others once I get them off, or more like the inverse splined hyperglide one you were using here..
Question for you, on one video servicing a freebody hub you used grease and on this video you used Phil Wood's oil, which is preferable? Grease or oil?
Oil. But oil won't hold the bearings in place for assembly.
Hi there - I just finished converting a Shimano 600 7 speed uniglide hub to a hyperglide hub following your video. I used a Shimano FH-RM30 7 speed hub which looks very similar to your hub. So far so good! The original uniglide dust cap (along with the body) was replaced with the hyperglide version. Now, however, the rubber seal on the original axle cone will not work with the new dust cap (which is narrower than the original). I can take the rubber seal off but then the bearings will be exposed. Do you know what type of axle cone will work with the FH-RM30 dust cap to seal the bearings? Thanks!
Herbert Harris Sorry, I don't know.
They don't all have rubber seals anyway. It should be fine unless you ride through a lot of heavy rain.
If you need to replace thsoe really thin spacers, you won't find them under "washers". They are ring shims. McMaster-Carr has them in any size you need.
Why did you use oil instead of grease? Do all free hubs use oil not grease? I know grease is used for axel bearings.
The bearings in axles are under a lot more load than the ones in a free hub. They bear the weight of rider and are turning constantly while riding. The bearings in a freehub really aren't under load much at all. They aren't rolling as you pedal. They only roll while you are coasting and the free hub is spinning freely. Grease will work, but it can also clog up the pawls. Oil is generally better for freehubs and freewheels.
My freehub was a bit different. When I pulled it from the wheel, the pawls remained on the wheel hub instead of coming with the freehub. It all seems the same otherwise.
I have a NOS SOLID AXLE (not QR) XT 7 sp. Uniglide rear hub and a NOS 7 sp. Hyperglide M-732 freehub. Would you be willing to do the transplant for of course $? Also, Rivendell now has wide range 7 sp. cassettes!!! 13-42, 11-36, for example, so finally doing this really makes sense for me.
Thanks for the video I clicked on because i just wanted to know what is the difference between the two :) You'll have to excuse me if you explained this in the video, i didn't have time to watch gave it a fast liked and straight to comments :)
Uniglide is older technology that where the smallest cog screws on as a lock ring. Hyperglide have a separate lock ring. The splines on the free hub are also different.
Nice to know this is why your channel is brilliant your keeping it old school showing us all the tricks of the trade, and also throwing in a few modern videos have both packages going for ya. Thanks for the response looking forward to you future videos :)
Well I had another careful look at the hub and there was no way to use a hex key so I figured it must be pressed on so I made a spacer out of 40mm plastic waste pipe, just shorter than the free hub then used the small screw on cog with a chain whip to pull the hub off and after a few turns it popped off. There is a tube coming out of the hub that the free hub is pressed onto which has a thicker base. this is too big for the hyperglide free hub so I filed it down which took a couple of minutes. the new freehub then was a direct fit and works fine with no need to switch bodies. works brilliantly.
Glad it worked. I have not encountered one of those press on type of uniglide freehubs yet.
I have one of these stinkin "press on" uniglide freehubs as well. I will try your method of removal and see if I can make it work! I tried just wedging it out with a hammer and wedge, but couldn't get it.
Hard to see why you were adding the spacers (13:30-) can u explain what was the cause or need? my wording for the question i know is poor but im sure you know what you did and thus what i am asking for further explanation. As always a great content & well presented video.
The thin spacers control the adjustment of the cone to the bearings.
sir i would like to thank you for the tutorial u made for us.... ^_^
Is it normal for Uniglide freehubs to only have 2 pawls?
Thanks for all your helpful videos.
I think it varies.
I have Dura Ace 7400 hubs. Is it possible to replace 7s UG freehub body with 10s HG freehub body?
Having to perfectly place those bearings must be very difficult. Luckily they didn’t fall off while you were trying to put the free hub body back on
The grease holds them.
Exactly what I have to do now, and I understand! Thanks!
is mineral spirits the same as mineral turpentine? (mineral turps used for cleaning brushes after painting) also can i use kerosene for cleaning metal/plastic parts?,or is that a bad idea?
neil crompton Yes, they are the same. I have hear many people use kerosene. I would use it minimally on plastic parts.
as i understand it kerosene is a bi product of the petroleum distilling process,also some plastics do too,i guess using kerosene could soften or make some plastics brittle.
Could you please specify what is the actual model of the hub you are converting?
Why do you have to replace grease with Tenacious Oil?
So it's just the body and dust cap from the hyperglide used, now my question is it possible to use an 8~10/11sp body on the uniglide hubs?
Shrug. If you can find a freehub that will fit. And you will need a longer axle. And you will need to redish the wheel. Who knows. Go buy a 10/11 speed wheel maybe. Or hub, and build a wheel.
hi sir. goodday. question here.. is it applicable to all hub? like suntour hub change the freehub body to shimano? thanks alot..
+hjojazz G Not even sure Suntour made freehubs. If they did, they are obscure an doubtfully compatible with the Shimano stuff.
+RJ The Bike Guy do u have email i can send the pictures., thanks alot.
+hjojazz G You can post them to my facebook page.
well that's bad thy anyway great videos they helped me a lot
Howdy once again! As it turns out, mixing the Shimano 600 7 speed uniglide freehub internals and the FH-RM30 hyperglide shell did not work for me. The FH-RM30 freehub unit is the same as what is in your video. Namely, it has the protruding base at the bottom which does not fit standard Shimano hub bases. Using the FH-RM30 necessitates swapping parts as you did in your video. The reason why my effort did not work is due to the peculiarity of the 600 uniglide freehub which has very nice polished races inside but does not allow the FH-RM30 dust cap to sit properly. Furthermore, the FH-RM30 dust cap has a narrower opening which meant spending a lot of time on the internet looking for a substitute axle cone and dust cap that would fit. HOWEVER, as it turns out, Shimano has another 7 speed freehub for the STX-RC (mfr part # Y3AP98020) which has the same base as the Shimano 600 uniglide and in fact is probably the standard base that most freehub units will fit. This freehub fits perfectly on the Shimano 600 hub base - no swapping freehub parts necessary and all that. Furnthermore, the dust cap on the STX-RC freehub body has a larger opening so that the 600 uniglide axle cone and seal fit perfectly. So I'm now back in business upgrading my wifes 1987 Sekai mixte (with 126mm rear spacing)!
Herbert Harris By the way, although my first effort failed I learned a lot about freehubs due to your excellent video! I also made your freehub tool which I now have in my tool kit.
Hey, I have a 7sp uniglide 600 wheelset I'm trying to convert to hyperglide. What you're saying is that the freehub body you mentioned doesn't require taking it apart?
+Alex Korogod Alex - sorry for responding so late! The specific rear hub I used is a NOS Shimano FH-6400, which has 126mm rear spacing and comes with a 7 speed uniglide freehub body. The FH-6400 is also called a 600, so it may be the same rear hub. The 7 speed STX-RC freehub body will work as is (no modifications necessary) with the FH-6400. As a side note, once I converted the freehub body and built the wheels, I then took a 11-34 9 speed cassette and removed the 11 cog (Sheldon Brown talks about this). That cassette will now fit on the 7 speed STX-RC freehub body. In a nutshell, I am using 9 speed shifters, running 8 speeds, on a 7 speed freehub body. Works great! I went this route since 9 speed shifters I think are better quality than the 7-8 speed stuff. I wanted to keep the rear spaced at 126mm because the frame is a small mixte that has 2 sets of seat stays (along with the chain stays). Spreading that seemed problematic. Once again, sorry for the late reply.
It's fine. I have the same hubs on a wheelset that I have. I bought a '92 Schwinn paramount but it came with a cheap nameless weinneman wheelset, so I wanted to swap it out. I ended up doing what you did, just with a 7 speed 105 groupset. I'd like to upgrade it to 8 or 9 speed, but I'm too busy with college.
Is the cup-cone mechanism used for holding the freehub on the same on the STX-RC? Or does it require a 10mm allen key? It has to be the same in order for it to work, right?
Hi Shyflirt. Thanks for the video. I was trying to find a video that showed me how to disassemble a HG freehub and it seems there are still more variations within it as mine has sealed bearings inside (2010 Specialized Allez Comp). I was glad to see the homemade freehub removal tool because I think that's where I'm stuck. All I see is the sealed bearing and the two notches behind it where your tool would fit. Looks like I'll have to make one of those to go further. Do you have any online shimano manuals that would match my HG freehub? I've scoured the internet to no avail. Cheers.
The sealed bearing may be for the wheel, and not the hub. Still, I have not seen one of those. I work on more older bikes than newer ones. You wont find a lot of info on disassembling the freehub as it's not meant to be taken apart. It is generally replaced. I am guessing that once you get the sealed bearing out (maybe a bearing puller), the resat of the disassembly will be similar to what it is in my video.
Do you HAVE to use a Hyperglide chain on a Hyperglide cassette, or can any chian do?
You don't have to use a Hyperglide chain. You still want a proper chain. If you have 7 speeds, buy a chain meant for 7 speeds.
Thanks, RJ! As usual, you're my go-to guy when it comes to bike tech.
Would this work to convert HG 7spd to HG 8 speed? I don't see why not.... thoughts?
And longer axle and spacers, dishing wheel, respacing frame, etc, etc.
Hi! Really interesting video! May I ask, could this be done to convert an old 7 speed to an 8 sp hub? I really don't want to change the whole set, (i couldn't afford the same quality components) then I would only need to change shifters. Thanks!
7 speed hyperglide freehub to 8 speed hyperglide freehub?
Exactly, i have a set of shimano hg50 from the early 90's, and the rear hub ratchet is starting to wear off, so i was thinking about replacing only the rear hub but the bikeshop guy won't sell just the one i need. After watching your video i was wondering wether i could get a used hub, take it apart and revamp my wheel without changing the whole hub set. This could mean a significantly less expensive upgrade. Thanks! And greetings from argentina.
Alejandro De Luca Then yes, and no. The problem is that while you can convert a 7 speed freehub to an 8/9/10 speed freehub, the 8 speed is wider and when mounted on the 7 speed wheel, will stick out farther than the axle. You can try cleaning and lubing it: How To Fix A Sticky Freehub
or if that doesn't work, try overhauling it and replacing the bearings: Freehub Body Disassembly/Assembly
I see, i will try your advice then. Many thanks for the quick reply!
I have a 7-speed uniglide freehub. Can I use a 7-speed hyperglide freehub for the conversion? How about an 8-speed hyper glide freehub? How about any other speed freehub? Any thing else to make sure the conversion will work?
+John Link Yes to the 7 speed freehub. 8+ speed freehubs mighgt work, BUT, they are wider and would require a longer axle, and the wheel redished.
+RJ The Bike Guy Thank you. The bike mechanics at my LBS said they could do the conversion. Now I just need to find a 7-speed free hub!
It's not so easy to maintain a vintage bike.
Waaait. I was under the impression that a Hyperglide freehub would interface just fine with a Uniglide hub, and that basically all Shimano was the same (except for some odd DA stuff and a few others). I'm looking at an Ultegra hub right now that is definitely not Uni but has the same inner spline interface (as opposed to the outer teeth of your Hyper fh) as your Uni. Am I missing something here?
Nope. The HG cassette has the wide tooth and there is no wide gap on the UG freehub for it to fit into. And there is no place for the lock ring to screw into. You could possibly remove the dustcap and , but the cassette wouldn't fit. There was a middle ground UG freehub that fit both UG and HG cassettes. This was not one of them.
Not sure exactly what you are describing. Post a photo on my FB page so I an see it.
shyflirt1 Sorry, I meant the interface between the freehub and the hub - your UG hub has the inner splined area and your HG has the outer splined area. Your HG hub reminds me of the American Classic ones. My thought was that all modern (er, modern-ish) Shimano hubs used the same connection between the hub itself and the freehub (back side of the freehub, like at 1:46-1:48).
I'm new to this whole "swapping freehubs" thing so I might be totally confused.
alecjahn That part varies with the wheel. You can't just buy an HG freehub and slap it on a wheel. You have to find a freehub compatible with your wheel hub.
shyflirt1 Ah! Ok. I see now. Is your hub shown there a Shimano brand, then? Maybe that's why I'm thinking it was all the same.
Thanks!!
I believe it was Shimano.
Sir i have my old uniglide hub body and the cone cup is broken im planning to buy a new modern freehub body so i can replace the cup cone from the new type to my old hub body , i saw your video and i think it has the same size as mine and both freehub body has the same size of CUP CONE , i just want to ask what is the exact size of FREEHUB BODY on your video. Sir please reply sir! Thank you sir! Been watching your videos about bikes and everything.
I don't know the exact size if the freehub body in this video. I did it years ago.
why to use oil on iron ball instead of grease?i thougt that grease is most suitable to lubricate the iron ball,because i think grease cannot be easily wash off by water!
Can I place sealed bearings in that hubs?
No.
Perfect
dude...i have a suntour perfect freewheel. I know its not a cassette but it uses a locking cog....I simply want to remove the cogs to remove rust and clean them thoroughly, but I cant get the small cog off no matter how hard I pull with 2 opposing chain whips…. Any tips?
I have a video on how to clean and lube a freewheel: ua-cam.com/video/eDdSpIPt5qk/v-deo.html
Actually removing the cogs from the freewheel body is possible, but they are on there very tight and you are apt to break your chain whips first. They used to make solid wrenches to dismantle the cogs. But generally removing the cogs is not necessary. If it's just a little surface rust, clean it off the best you can. Apple Cider Vinegar might do it. If it's a lot of rust, just replace the freewheel.
I really see the difference between oil and grease. Grease is a very thick oil. Oil is a very thin grease. I get it now.
More or less. Next time I will see if I can use the thick oil to hold the bearings in place.
Can I transplant a 7speed hyperglide hub and remove a 8speed hyperglidehub to make it a
7speed hub the rear axles are about the same length the hubs are identical LX DEORE
Shrug. I am surprised the axles are the same length as 8 speed hubs are typically wider than 7 speed hubs.
Hi RJ, I wanted to swap my UG freehub to a HG freehub as per your video here.Shimano XT M732 HG 7 speed will take either UG or HG and I thought I'd double check with you to make sure it would be an appropriate new freehub for the swap. Can you confirm this? .......kind regards, aaron
+Momar Szyslak Sorry, not sure off hand. You will just have to give it a shot.
Did you end up trying this? How did it work?
Where can I find blueprints of the two standards for mounting the freehub to the hub? I need the exact shapes and dimensions for a project :/
there's far more than 2 standards of freehub/hub interface. look for tech docs or patent files.
Hi I'm very interested at this video cause I cannot find the right tools to take off the Uniglide hub I had on my older Shimano 80's Araya wheels.
I see that u use a socket like tools with 2 tab extending out that fits right into the top cup of the Uniglide hub. Where can I buy one? What's the name/model of the tools? Please let me know ok. Thanks!
As mentioned in the video, I made the tool. Here is the video on how to make it: ua-cam.com/video/1qBk5pePGRg/v-deo.html
And that tool is too DISASSEMBLE the free hub. If you just want to remove to the freehub, that is covered in this video: ua-cam.com/video/f19BGYc5ysA/v-deo.html
shyflirt1 You've been installing Clarks cables recently?
I have some Clarks cable housing.
I have a 130mm OLD XT rear hub with a uniglide/hyperglide 7 speed combo freehub. I can use either. It is 30mm which means i can only run a 7sp cassette. If i replace the rear axle with a 135mm axle (148) to fit my frame can i then run a more modern 135mm freehub on it and be able to run 8 or 9 speed? in other words, if your axle was longer in this video (assuming it was 130mm) could you have put the more modern 35mm freehub on there to allow for 8 or 9 speed hyperglide cassettes?
Yeah, they was a brief period where they made combo freehubs. Not sure if newer freehub bodies would be compatible for the conversion.
whats the benefits of hyperglide over uniglide? cant seem to see the benefits of one over the other.
Go shopping for Uniglide cassettes.
Hey I'm trying to build a fix gear bike out of a uni glide hub. how do I block the kasset to make it fixed gear?
+Felix Miesel You can't easily that I know of.
Get it welded? If you want to ghetto rig it, just take it apart, clean out all the grease with mineral spirits or automotive brake cleaner and dump a bunch of JB weld in there. Worse case scenario you have to get a new hyperglide freehub and swap it out.
What bike grease are you using?
Marine grease.
Where can i pick up Hyperglide free hub body that I need to make the conversion? I need the dustcap to go with it
Amazon or ebay maybe.
Try your local bike co-op if you have one. Or buy a second hand wheel to use as a donor for the hub.
Hi I've just started this conversion of a 6 speed uniglide freehub to a 7 speed Hyperglide. I've got the hyperglide freehub off the hub it was attached to using the 10mm hex wrench but when I came to remove the Uniglide hub the wrench will not fit and in fact there doesn't seem to be any flats inside the hub. Is there an alternative mounting, I've heard early Uniglides didn't have the 10mm bolt but were pressed on. If this is the case how do i get the hub off? Is this likely to be the type of hub I have? Thanks
I have never seen a pressed on freehub. But some freehubs are removed with a larger hex wrench and/or from the non drive side.
is it possible to convert suntour freehub body to shimano freehub?
*shrug*
For My Old bianchi with six speed uniglide the following part seems to fit. SHIMANO FH-MC18 Genuine Bicycle Parts Freewheel Body & CA - Y3A398020. Anyone tried?
Thx sir
Fh-rm475 is a direct bolt on
And what is that socket tool?
ua-cam.com/video/1qBk5pePGRg/v-deo.html
You should sell these! Just saying ;) I would buy one
Show me how to release a hyperglide freehub,,thnks
ua-cam.com/video/mmlLgj_b8e0/v-deo.html
Hello. How many and what kind of spacers are there? What do they really do? On my hub I found even 4 spacers - one thick, one half thinner and two again half thinner. Why so many? Did my craftsman put to many of them that's why water gets inside my hub aaaaaaall the fucking time. Hub are rusted already and can't find new one - need to change the wheel. Thank you.
Watch the video again.
Actually I put comment on wrong video. Should be this - ua-cam.com/video/X9gIEG1db0s/v-deo.html. My hub is different so I don't know how to decide how many spacers do I need. My problem - water gets inside a freehub body. Why? Thanks ;) for reply.
The spacers have nothing to do with water and only adjust the spacing of the bearings.
sorry, but i don't understand, what in the glass? Spirit? For what?
Mineral spirits. Or paint thinner. Or use you favorite degreaser. To clean all the oil/grease off the parts.
now I know what I'm doing.
Why oil and not grease?
Viscosity.
How to remove lose tread bolt in v break help me I can't remove it
Ne Pastor Huh?
shyflirt1 in my fork I can't remove the bolt because the v break install the
weld is lose so I can't turn the bolt how to remove it
I am still not understanding. Does bolt not turn at all? Or does the bolt just turn and turn, and not come loose?
shyflirt1 yes
Yes, which?
i like but it' s to complicte this system!!
You're making it all way too complicated. A lot of unnecessary work here.
Says the trans guy with a Walmart huffy.
I want you in my neighborhood