BMW X5 G05 Transfer Case Service / slipping, jerkiness, shuddering
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- On today's episode of My Home Garage, we tackle the BMW transfer case problems on many models including the x5. slow speed noise, shuttering, jerkiness, under load acceleration you feel front end jerkiness as it struggles to smoothly transfer the power to the front differential.
Just changed the t-case , diffs and tranny fluids yesterday on my '21 G05 with 88k miles. Back to smooth shifts, no hesitation. I strongly encourage everyone to do the same, its worth the money and effort.
👍 I ruptured my Achilles but when I’m better it will go in the air and have the rest of the fluids changed
What SAE class differential fluid did you use for front and back?
@@shaunruss2474 redline fluid 75w85 there site actually has certified fluids. I have yet to replace sitting on my shelf just like me and my Achilles injury.
Thanks for making this video. I just did this a few weeks ago to my 2019 X5. I too didn't notice the issue at the dealer. They mounted two new front tires on it before we took delivery and not long later we noticed the shuddering. Seems like this is the case for a lot of people! For me, changing the fluid with this procedure resolved the issue by roughly 90%. The shudder was very noticeable before, and now it's almost imperceptible. I too plan to change the oil again after a few thousand miles. Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you.
Been about the same. I really need to get on it hard to even feel anything but it is barely noticeable. All slow speed stuff is gone. Even while turning. I also believe the tires something with the diameter change.
@@MyHomeGarage the tires they put in the back of my car were substantially different in diameter to the old ones on the front. If I recall correctly the diameter was different by 0.75" or so.
@loxxrider do you have the staggers 22 or 21 or the 20s with the sq set up
i noticed the shudder at low speeds (thought it was the 8 zf trans at first) and then it started "slipping" when accelerating at 70-80 mph. during wide open throttle it would buckle/shudder as the car reaches peak hp and torque. it almost felt like a misfire but i figured a CEL would be thrown or a fault code stored. car is fault free. I scheduled for transfer case fluid exchange and front/rear diff fluid this week. this was done about 60k miles ago on my f31 328i xdrive car. it's interesting you mentioned honda as well because as far as I know bmw referenced honda/acura AWD systems when creating xdrive. i'm guessing the cars have similar limitations which require the diffs to be serviced around 50k - 60k miles. the 1% variance between tire/wheel diameters is true with AWD; incorrect tire pressures and worn tread can lead to issues. i'll have to ask the shop to clear the adaptations for the transfer case too. great video!
The adaptation reset is the most important part. Haha yeah. Good old days when all the manufacturers actually recommended the fluids be replaced.
Hey! How did the scheduled Transfer case work go? Did your issue get resolved? I’m having same exact symptoms
@@Meowchiavelli hey unfortunately it still is doing the same thing. my 2014 328i xdrive TC has 125k miles on it and driven in california with no snow/salted roads. I previously did the TC oil change around 70K miles as mentioned in my original comment. My tires were balding so I had those replaced just in case. No change... so I went through the hassle of replacing my CV axles too in the event that the inner joint was going out (125K miles; original GKN axles). i replaced them with GKN axles and unfortunately the shuddering is still there. i don't think it's a driveshaft issue because the mechanics who worked on the transfer case did not see anything out of the ordinary. no fault codes were stored for the VTG module either. they also followed the BMW bentley manual which instructs to take it completely off, invert and let the fluid drain out, and refill.
I feel like rebuilts like zumbrota are questionable (no guarantee they're going to work any better/ longer for the price $1800) and I don't know of any reputable transmission specialists where I am around. My next thought is to buy a low mile used TC off ebay from a salvage yard and install it given it is OEM for around $600 - $750. However I don't regret doing the service ($800 labor; high cost of living here) because it's cheaper than trying to throw parts at it first. Because there are no fault codes or visible signs of leakage it is hard to diagnose. I am under the impression that OEM transfer cases with no mods/tunes will allow for around 5-10 years / up to 125K miles of life.
FYI there was a change to the ATC 35CL units after the first few months of production. I would recommend getting the later production year model for the TC if you go down the used route. Here's the excerpt from AWD.TECH website:
Suppose you intend to replace the bearings, piston, or levers in the ATC35L or ATC45L transfer cases made in the first months of production. In that case, you should keep the following fact in mind: a few months after the start of production of these transfer cases, the manufacturer changed the design-it switched from using thrust needle cages (No. 24 in the diagram) to needle bearing assemblies with washers.
This also entailed changing the thickness of parts 22 (piston), 25 (moving lever), and 27 (fixed lever). That is, the indicated bearings of the new and old types are not interchangeable. When planning renovations, please keep this in mind.
There's also a long running thread on transfer case failures database (F30 bimmerpost forums) if you would like to see the data. Farkle, the original poster, has his own UA-cam channel too if you would like to reach out. To me there seems like there's a lot of issues with the PRE-LCI model years (2015 production/model year 2016) and going back to the E90 gen. I am not sure if there is a correlation between using a later model year TC given there was a known running change made. Generally speaking German engineers will make any change necessary if it's "better" for the car.
Overall I do want to point out that the TC issue I'm describing may be specific to cars that utilize the ATC 35CL units. The X series utilize a different transfer case and I've seen good outcomes with a fluid swap. I hope that helps a bit and anyone else that reads this... will try to report back when I get around to getting the used transfer case + new fluids. I plan on replacing the seals and guibo at the same time too since it's dropped down.
You have to do it twice for better results. Let the first fluid change cycle through for a week or two, then change it again. Also, reset the transmission electronics. Push the start button without cranking the engine... floor the accelerator for 30 seconds, release and push the starter button off. Then start the car. The shuddering in my 2019 X5 disappeared completely and, BTW, I've changed tires since and it has not shuddered again even though I replaced them with non-runflats.
Dude, thanks for a super informative video. Every detail covered. I have the exact issue with my 2019 X5 .
Bought it a month ago, all seemed well. It needed 2 front tyres as they wore unevenly. Last owner probably didn't have alignment done. So I replaced the fronts Only ! rears had some thread left. Big mistake. Transfer case started jerking badly. Rear tyres replaced 2 wks later. Problem still not gone & I've to wait 2 wks for my mechanic (new baby). I'm hoping a fluid change (or 2) and ISTA recalibration will fix the problem like your video.
Is it possible I've damaged the Transfer case ?
I personally don’t believe so. I believe when you changed tires. The transfer case calibration got messed up and then it was trying to learn the difference in tread then you changed tires again and it’s trying to further adjust. I’m almost thinking when someone’s changed tires. Adaptations should be reset. Mine is at 45000 kms and the transfer case was acting up. When I bought it and drove it felt nothing then they replaced rear tires and I felt it. Difference from front tires to rear is only 2/32 ( fronts were 7/32 and new rears ones were 9/32).
@MyHomeGarage I totally agree with you. It drove fine on the old tyres. Problems started with the front 2 replaced and then the rears compounded the issue.
Hard to believe all it needs is nice new fluid and a recalibration. It's so annoying when it slips & jerks. You reckon mild driving for 2 weeks will be ok..? Are the clutches slipping? Will I wreck it before he looks at it?
@@theguyfromdrive4811 hard acceleration and getting on the gas in reverse or forward with wheels locked. I would let it move without using acelleratot
@@MyHomeGarage Thanks for the speedy replies. Appreciate it 👍. Great video.
@@theguyfromdrive4811 no worries. Keep us updated. I’m curious. Eventually a rebuild kit will come out. The only real issue is the clutch’s why are people replacing the whole case
Very helpful video, what scan tool are you using?
Autel mx808
@MyHomeGarage Hey, great video. Can this be done without removing the mount/bracket?
Maybe but it isn’t worth the hassle.
I get this really mild shudder every once in a while. It's not really noticeable but I notice it. I appreciate the video. First see if the dealer will do it since I am still under warranty and it not, i'll just do it at 50k with the tranny fluid that they call lifetime, lol. The one thing I cannot find for the G05 is changing the diff fluid.
I’ll be replacing the front and rear differential fluids soon. Ruptured my Achilles tendon. Gonna be a-little bit before I get back in the garage and make videos. Funny enough I have fluids already .
@@MyHomeGarage Get well man. Health is always more important. Wil be looking forward to when you are able to do the fluid change.
@@jeffdurling100 thanks. Appreciate it. Definitely before winter. Need to get it ready for the season.
do you have to leave the car on and attached to ISTA in the service mode? Or can you enter the oil change service mode then exit ISTA and turn-off the car and do the oil change? When I tried to change the oil, I entered service mode in ISTA and it said the chamber was open, but when I went to change the oil it seemed like it was still closed since I was only able to extract 500ml of fluid.
I didn’t get as much out as I thought. But yes I did hear the chamber open when commanded. It isn’t much fluid in my opinion. I just followed the procedure in the scanner prompts. I used a autel. I’m sure ista is even more straight forward
I have the same x5 2020 and it’s jerk like crazy while turning the wheel so do you recommend changing it and my car is on 136k and haven’t change it before
Highly recommend make sure it is done properly with correct fluid. Also people have commented that doing it twice over the course of 6 months makes it even better
Good job 👍
What scanner do you use to reset and calibration?
I used autel mx808
@@MyHomeGaragethank you
@Andrew_Rich no worries good luck
Anything cheaper that would work?
@@Ryzn322 I just read reviews of the LAUNCH Creader Elite V2.0 (Amazon) and someone said it has transfer case adaptations. It has a $30 coupon so I just ordered. I'm changing my fluid on my 2021 X7 that shudders now and then when turning
please tell me what model Autel. I have exact same issue with my 2019 BMW X5.
Autel mx808
@@MyHomeGarage Thank you! My independent BMW mechanic quoted $350.00 all in (including fluid). I will just let them do it. great video. Thank you for explaining everything
@sb62082 no worries goodluck.
What size of hose do use to get to the bottom of the case? I cannot get the 5/16” hose down inside the case to extract fluid out? Do you reuse the bolt or replace new one?
I reused bolt the hose was 5mm maybe or less. You really need to bend it to get it down needs to slide down straight in that bump out in the housing.
Didn’t you show there was a drain plug at the beginning?
There is no drain plug lol the drain plug and fill are the same.
@@MyHomeGarage Grab a pump from a large Windex container, stick it into the fluid reservoir, and pump out the old fluid.
Continuing BMW's policy of not solving widespread problems for 10 to 15yrs. Just tell the customers that they are the only one that is complaining about this issue. Maybe they will give you money or just give up and go away frustrated.
Sad but true brother. Not just bmw. I was a Honda tech for 15 years.
Do you have to use scan tool to do this?
Yes
Why no drain plug BMW!
BMW likes to force customers into stealerships by making DIY servicing as difficult as possible. You almost have to do open-heart surgery on the car just to change a headlight bulb.
is no money on replacing oil is more money replacing the transfer case
Unscrew the plastic pump from a large bottle of Windex or 409, rinse it, stick the plastic tube into the reservoir, and spray out the old fluid. It'll take you 5 minutes to pump it out.
Smart man I like that.
What's the BMW part no# please 😅@@eduardojimenez2044
But car mechanic told me it’s one percent chance transfer case will survive
I’m Also from canada
1% lol Jesus. We’ll I think there are rebuild kits to beef them up. Like the F series so hopefully we can all just fix them
@@ehtishamahmad6851 he's just trying to increase his chances of getting the job to 100%. Change the transfer case oil TWICE in a span of two weeks. That fixes the problem