I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment..
I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment ECT..
I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment..
Been using the push fittings for years recommend not turn or twist fitting as it can wrinkle or unseat double o ring in fitting also marked line should touch end of fitting if not release and repush on as it is not in all the way if not up to the line . use inside outside reamer as well as cutting cooper will leave lip on tubing and damage o rings when pushed in and prevent complete insertion. Good job
I agree that you do a great job however in Maryland/Washington DC, we can’t use flexible gas connectors by code, also we generally install an anti -vibration canvas in the section between the plenum and evap coil especially in an area 6 inches or less. It would be easier and less time consuming. Definitely quieter. I have 42 years experience and tried the push connectors on ductless and experienced leaks also. I was very disappointed. Still have some on my truck ! I do however applaud you for helping many folks get an idea of our trade. Please continue to learn and grow . And take a tip from an old guy, buy some Carhartt pants with knee pads built in, pricey but do it now while you are still young. Martin Sharp
These type of connectors are designs for high pressure. It’s a reality that having to get away from using open flame is slowly going away. This brings to a safer work enviroment. Also, this is a science that many don’t understand.
The pro fit pipe connectors are awesome. I used them to replaced a chiller evaporator on a laser fabricator and there was no clearance to braise without dismantling the whole section of machine, so the price of the fittings was cheap to the alternative
Love to see the comments of contractors asking how many installs you had, any call backs even thou their installs will leak after a year or so. They are putting the fear on regular people that don't want to spend the outrageous prices some of them charge. With the help of UA-cam, us DIY weekend contractors are saving thousands of dollars and there goes same for plumbing.
These are far more likely to leak than brazing. There is no replacement for brazing and soldering. I've already gone behind installers to remove these fittings and braze the connections. Same with zoom lock (pro press for refrigeration)
I work in refrigeration. Me personally am iffy on using these fittings for refrigerants, but I have seen them work. Years ago one of our techs due to running out of oxygen and acetylene, used one. 4 years later, no leaks. So I guess they do work, but question is longevity and consistency.
yeah those connectors seem pretty cool.. there are two types of them when you order them.. one is removable and the other isn't.. I think they prefer you use the non removable ones with the higher pressure systems but its been a while since I looked into them.. never used them but seems easy
Awesome vid, thanks! Just a heads up, @12:20 you don't need the red anti-short bushing on MC cable; per NEC 330.40 fittings just need to be listed for MC and they'll take care of protecting the cable exiting the armor. Manufacturers include the bushings out of habit/old practices but they're only needed on AC, not MC. Also see NEMA bulletin 90.
The Zoomlock looks like a better way to avoid brazing than the crimper. My concern with the crimper is that whoever follows you has zero slack to work with. A brazed piece doesn't need to be cut, and the Zoomlock appears the same. Thanks for making these videos!
Wonder how it holds up when the run cap for the condenser motor quits on a budget unit with no hp cut out and the liquid line hits 450 psi. I am old school too.
On commercial units a refrigerant leak on a liquid line valve gets worse as the seals are refrigerated by the leak ; I am old school and do not use all this stuff , I braze !
Great video, I find in most service calls that I go to, the quick connects have leaks, on an average of 1 in 3 systems, and long-term are not a reliable solution for HVAC installations, no matter what the manufacturer says. maybe if your PSI is under 100. With new systems out there being a lot of heat pumps, they can go up to as much as 450-550 PSI in the winter in heat mode and break those quick connects easily! Plus anyone wanting a long-term install needs to braze, all these new conecters have not proven themselves 100% reliable yet.
im going to set these up in my home HVAC lab (yes I have one) and see how they do in heat mode where its not only pressure but the discharge temp on a heat pump run in 45-50f weather (yes we run our heat in that weather) is also pretty high
Plumbers also say shark bite are trash and leak and you shouldn’t use them. I’ve been using these for years and never an issue. Key is prep. Don’t use on dirty pipe.
I’m talking about the refrigeration ones ! We have removed nearly 100 fittings that have leaked . Within the first 2 years of being installed . My company does not install them , just had to repair a lot of those fittings from others . Hope you have better luck
@@mattmitchel8931 2 years seems about the norm for these fittings. Zoomlock too. I just replaced a 1-⅛ suction service valve on a Trane condenser because the bell was cut off and a press fitting was installed. It was only 3 months in. Installer left homeowner hanging. Trane denied their warranty because their IOM states make all refrigerant line connections using a filler material containing minimum of 5% silver content. Homeowner had to pay for valve, labor, and refrigerant. I've removed over 100 of these fittings because of leaks.
@@topher8634 100 for real seem like somone is exaggerating. I doubt there are that many installed across and entire state let alone the small area you service
@@diyhvacguy +1 on staybrite8, when i was in the HVAC business alot of us used it... wont oxidize if you keep your pipes from getting too hot.. I have joints out there that are close to 20 years no leaks.. we didnt use it on big commercial installs.. it really doesnt work well on anything above an inch.. our cutoff as a company was up to 1 inch.. to a 7/8 line with staybrite but not a 1 inch.. most DIYers wont find anything that big unless they are working on big homes.. but even then not likely..
Looks nice. For me I will let those fittings be in use for a while before considering them. It is a sediment leg and not a drip leg. (A sediment leg has gas change directions off the branch like you have. A drip let is horizontal with the branch down with the cap) Tomato tomAto I suppose 👍
I'm sorry, but what you have done is to create a possible 4 additional leak points. If properly brazed or soldered, there is no chance of any leaks. When you drive off from the job, you don't have to worry about it.
@@taylorhackney9275 I know you're sorry because a perfectly sealed system does exist if it's performed by a skilled tradesman, so don't try to sound like a HVAC expert because it's obvious you can't braze or solder.
@badger305 Nothing is 100% perfectly sealed. Even perfect brazes and solders leak at a microscopic level. It will never be an issue for the life of a unit and many years after that is what they are referring too. That's a literal fact and taught in schools, even mentioned by AC Service Tech and by Bryan Orr. Now I agree with you though, Brazing is tried and true and the best method
Water plumbing shark bite couplers only have to deal with about 50 PSI or 3 Bars. Refrigerant lines can routinely work at 160 PSI or 11Bars, so I hope Pro-fits can withstand those pressures even with vibration from motors
Water pressure is considered low in some areas at 60 psi.. I would say they are good for well over 200 just to deal with different conditions. Water hammer and such
Was wondering if you insulated any of the duct work after your install.. I would think that would need to happen to get any efficiency and to keep your duct work from sweating.
I'm not sure what everyone makes a big about brazing, I just solder with propane, heck the high pressure line is only in the 400psi range. Soldering doesn't crystallize the lines either
Wondering if you have tried SmartLock? It is not like Zoomlock Push Fittings. Twisting of nuts on each end of SmartLock is required to compress metal on metal to seal the connection.
Using a screen gasket tool as a bead roller is a pretty good idea!!! I am curious as to why you sealed off the old 2 or 4 inch (I couldn't tell by just watching the video) filter slot, and put in a 1 inch filter slot. I would have thought a thicker filter was better.
Thank you, I hav enjoyed and learned from your videos! I was wondering if argon /CO2 gas instead of nitrogen can be used to pressure test the line set.
I have used these for reclamation on older R22 condenser units that can be pumped down and lines cut and king valve shut. I will attach a smaller pipe with a Schraeder valve to the opposite side and I’m in business. They handle a vacuum to remove refrigerant and nice to be reused over and over again. I have seen some cut off the bell on the condenser unit line and install these. But plastic outdoors which is inside these connectors… I have my doubts with holding up to seasonal conditions of extreme temperatures. And indoors?? Well…. It’s nice to not use a torch which is safe but these have a 5yr warranty and I’m sure the plastic will break down even indoors. Brazen is still the way to go. I’m assuming you brazed the outdoor connections??
Everything is helpful thanks a lot. I just have a quick question. How do I secure the liquid the refrigerant so I can disconnect the line and tuck into the bay in my basement instead to be hanging below the joist
Hey I just found your channel. I've been interested in HVAC ever since my compressor died one HOT summer afternoon. I asked the guy to install a sight glass and he laughed at me, saying no residential customer has ever asked for that, have you ever installed one in a home? Thanks for the great videos and sharing the TONS of knowledge you have!!
@@tonyrhoton6613 ... they had their place in R-12 and R-22 systems. Back before I retired that was always my first check on a system. That and checking temp drop and a look at air filters. 90% of my work (years ago) was a visual check.... long before I broke out the gauges.
I install 2 on every system I do. One @ the condenser and one at the air handler. Not just a sight glass but combo glass/moisture indicator. Also guage ports. Yes you can ensure a full column of liquid to the expansion device by checking and adjusting subcool, and I do it anyway, but there is something satisfying to seeing it in action.
I don’t think these have been on the market that long for HVAC. It would be interesting to see a longer track record. Have you tried testing to 500 lbs with nitrogen? The molecule is smaller. I’ve had some automotive AC’s that would leak under a nitrogen test put be fine with refrigerant.
I’ll do a video soon pressure testing it! Stay tuned! Hvacknowitall did a pressure test at 500psi and it held for over a week. Check out his video on them. Cheers
@@rodgraff1782 He said several years, not a few years. I have used them on a no flame job site, the first time I used it was 2 years ago, no issues and no leaks. Mind you, it is outside in the elements with vibration, I've had some guys brazing fail sooner than that under those conditions
@@cesarmoore7996 That’s great that those fittings are working out for you. If you have seen brazes that fail, don’t blame the process, blame the brazer
Should go over fan wires and fan speed. I've ran into several units that had fan speed wrong. Cool should be high, black. Heat should be medium high. Some units have different colors for fan speed!
How many of the push fittings do you think would be used during a normal condenser and coil install? I would think you would need: 1) 2 for condenser low side given you need 1 to extend the existing copper line and 1 to go into the condenser 2) 3 for condenser liquid line given you need one before and after liquid line filter 3) 1 for evaporator coil high side. This might be 2 if the liquid line is short. 4) 1 for evaporator coil low side . This might be 2 if the suction line is short. Would you concur?
Not on MY systems. They were first used on automobiles but even those joints eventually leak (the reason I learned auto HVAC in the first place). Instead of being desperate to avoid soldering wise DIYers PRACTICE ON SCRAP not the workpiece. I am a DIYer of several decades and learned long ago soldering isn't difficult, what's difficult is getting people to practice first but I don't personally choose to have that problem. Soldering is easy, fun and very useful for more than plumbing. Every DIYer should have a decent torch. I'll use Sharkbites on EXPOSED, ACCESSIBLE plumbing like a copper line to my old claw foot tub I needed to assemble then rotate into place behind the tub but I have plenty of shutoffs to isolate any area for future maintenance and repair (I design my home plumbing for "battle damage control" since nothing lasts forever).
Great video. Do you have any long term opinions on these push fittings for HVAC? How many jobs have you utilized these products on? Any callbacks? Would have been neat to see a bubble leak check after the install and maybe even the vacuum reading before use.
I used one a couple years ago,on a install in a tight area on a mobile home where i didnt want to risk using my torch and its held up so far. However there super expensive and i know 100% I can trust a braze joint,but under the right circumstances I would use one again. I guess they would be good for a homeowner installing there own system who doesnt have the tool or know how.
Many years ago. (1973 ) I kept an18” x 5/8”, WITH 2 SPECIAL FITTINGS,but you needed,a propane torch,to SET,the ADHESIVE in those fittings, which,were like slip couplings, WHY ? HUSSMANN uses ALUMINIUM EVAPS IN CASES, WHEN SOMEONE DROPS A DECKPAN,DAMAGING THE TUBING,, THATS WHY THOSE WERE FOR,, 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@cardsfan-ym1bj good to know. A little pricey however $160 or so added to the install is quite a bit cheaper than buying the actual press tool or purchasing a torch setup if you do not currently own one. The only reasonable alternative I see for a DIYer would be purchasing one of the manual press tools.
I don't see a flexible duct connection on your sheet metal work. Are you going to leave your overflow for the condensate aing up & open? Good demo on line set fittings.
Ask a simple question in HVAC Forum and you see those angry HVAC folks attacking you and treating you like an idiot. Here you are, basically showing how it's done step by step.
For stainless instrument tubing (10,000 psi rating) I have used double ferrule connectors. These fittings do not require any kind of flare. Obviously you don’t want to mix stainless and copper, but I wonder if someone makes something similar out of brass for HVAC lines. I have also seen fittings similar to vinegar ProPress, but for HVAC systems.
I’m sure someone else in here has said it. My apologies, just in case they hadn’t. Your welcome electrician needs to come back and secure that conduit down with 12” of any connection and along the conduit 12”-18”.
Would you suggest using the Pro-Fit connector on the air condenser in order to reattach the refrigeration lines? My house is older and the previous owner installed the new unit , a Goodman, on top of my septic tank. The septic system is failing and I’m positive that I will have to disconnect it. The fact that they would be exposed to outdoors is the reason for my question.
Unfortunately the stub on the outside isn’t quite long enough so I Staybrite 8 soldered that joint. Supposedly they are coming out with condensers that have a real long stub so we will see :)
@@diyhvacguy we bought an old house and had to remodel it to where access to the horizontal furnace was on the other side. I think I’ve got it handled. I’ve got three bids for a complete new system. I’ve learned a lot watching your UA-cam channel. I’m actually having the HVAC company install the unit based on the size that you suggested.
Don’t do it…all the new stuff is coming out with aluminum coils and piping….they’re making them so cheap and low quality I’m betting they won’t even get 5 years out of them before they start leaking all over the lines….the new type Freon isn’t as efficient…they’re “banning” it from being made in the US but it’s not illegal ..because duponts parent ran out and suddenly at the same time they decided that it was bad…my problem with the whole climate hoax is they’re labeling these gases like propane butane methane etc as ozone depleting….u can find all their charts etc online…on down the list is also carbon dioxide, oxygen, and all the gases they’re labeling the same…they plan to have all these banned in the US by 2035….what happens when they ban co2 and oxygen in a country? Everyone who is on o2 won’t be able to get it anymore….hvac is helping bring in this lunacy by perpetuating this belief that Freon is man made and needs to be banned….when u look what r22 is made of…methane butane and a bit of fluorine and chlorine to make the pressure a bit higher the r290 does…the d op in replacement for r22….r290 is propane….
Look up "Pro Fit Quick Connect" video from Tropic Supply channel. He does a pressure test at 700PSI! RectorSeal has their own demonstration to 400 PSI... the fittings are rated to 870PSI which is more pressure than any new condenser unit operates at normally. From my research R410A's highest pressure of 645 PSI happens at 155F which is well below most test demonstrations and well below the max rated pressure of the fittings. Seems like a great DIY option for sure! I have a 21-year-old system and using these fittings means I don't have to purchase too many special tools and would make for an easier swap of my 21-year-old Bryant unit when that time comes! The only thing I would need to get is a vacuum pump but for around 250 bucks total to get a stark pump, stark gauge set, deburring tool, pipe cutter, fittings and line set. I was quoted 12,700 to install a 2-ton Goodman system that I can order online for 2500-3000 grand! 200-300 for tools to install myself is a massive savings.
@@nateg08 Thanks Nate yeah that was my thought as well. That quote was way-way above the average based on my research. There is another local company that I will be getting quote from that appears to have reasonable rates and does quality work.
@Shane Gray plus if you know anyone that does side work you can get it done even cheaper. I do residential side work (I do comercial hvac). I put in a 2 ton system a while back for 4k and I'm confident enough in my install practices to warranty any labor for a year. Ive got no overhead so I can underbid any company and still turn a decent profit. I'd ask around. You do want someone with a good reputation tho that's for sure. There is a lot of people who will do a hack job and disappear on you unfortunately.
On a new Goodman aren't the connections too close together on the condenser to use the push on connector, also if you cut off the factory connectors will the tubing be long enough? Looks like only 3/4" will be left.
Hello, I love your videos. I have learned a lot. How is zoomlock connection you made holding up? Did you experience any issues? I plan to use quick connect - pro-fit for my install. I plan to install MrCool Universal heatpump 4-ton unit. I cannot use their quick connects because I plan to reuse my existing copper lines.
Did you use the quick fittings on the other end where it connects to the condenser or did you braze? Also i didn't see a link for the 3/8 adapter extension you used on the evaporator side.
Any recommendations on how to discharge the refrigerant liquid? I’m Home owner and these lines are hanging below the joists in my basement and I’m trying to talk them into the base so I can finish up my basement later on thank you
I have seen these but will they stand the test of time. I am 68 and still work but planning out my retirement date I will continue to braze and flare fittings.
All products and tools can be found here! ➡️ www.amazon.com/shop/thediyhvacguy?ref=ac_inf_tb_vh
Thanks for teaching me i am new i just started my g3
I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment..
I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment ECT..
I've already spent 3000 on tools and still have a Amazon cart for another 500.. just to get everything for HVAC. Overall I've spent $13,000 in the last year on tools and equipment..
I dont see a link for your tubing bender, did you not buy on Amazon.
HVAC tech here and have had these fittings on my own personal system and they worked great. 6 yrs so far and no leaks.
Been using the push fittings for years recommend not turn or twist fitting as it can wrinkle or unseat double o ring in fitting also marked line should touch end of fitting if not release and repush on as it is not in all the way if not up to the line . use inside outside reamer as well as cutting cooper will leave lip on tubing and damage o rings when pushed in and prevent complete insertion.
Good job
Thank you for this! Most people wouldn't take this on, but for those of us who are adventurous, your help is amazing!
YES!!!
B,MMm
This HVAC tech is a great Man Who loves to Share 👍
This HVAC guy is great in Sharing and Helping All of us 👍
I agree that you do a great job however in Maryland/Washington DC, we can’t use flexible gas connectors by code, also we generally install an anti -vibration canvas in the section between the plenum and evap coil especially in an area 6 inches or less. It would be easier and less time consuming. Definitely quieter. I have 42 years experience and tried the push connectors on ductless and experienced leaks also. I was very disappointed. Still have some on my truck ! I do however applaud you for helping many folks get an idea of our trade. Please continue to learn and grow . And take a tip from an old guy, buy some Carhartt pants with knee pads built in, pricey but do it now while you are still young. Martin Sharp
Thanks for the tips sir!
I'm an HVAC tech and owner. That's good sheet metal work!
Badger sheet metal, Pompano Beach, Florida. Second to none !!
These type of connectors are designs for high pressure. It’s a reality that having to get away from using open flame is slowly going away. This brings to a safer work enviroment. Also, this is a science that many don’t understand.
Absolutely great job,…..so glad to see the new youngsters teach what they are learning,….simply wonderful
in the atlanta area most condos here will not allow brazing/ torch on property. plumbers and hvac company's use push on fittings
Neat! I wish they had to shark bites 35 years ago. I knew some day it will get in our field but little too late for me now.
The pro fit pipe connectors are awesome. I used them to replaced a chiller evaporator on a laser fabricator and there was no clearance to braise without dismantling the whole section of machine, so the price of the fittings was cheap to the alternative
You havent had no leaks ?
Love to see the comments of contractors asking how many installs you had, any call backs even thou their installs will leak after a year or so. They are putting the fear on regular people that don't want to spend the outrageous prices some of them charge. With the help of UA-cam, us DIY weekend contractors are saving thousands of dollars and there goes same for plumbing.
Thanks man, that’s the goal, as it’s in the title. I get so so many hateful comments but I have thick skin :)
@@diyhvacguyI would like for Update on this Installation due to Shark bite 😢😮
Squirt some more gas in and go!
Hi, what is the part number for the longer liquid line connector that you use to connect the zoomlock? I really hate that 90 degree bent connector.
Every fitting has the potential to leak, even brazing. 👍 for trying something safer and faster.
These are far more likely to leak than brazing. There is no replacement for brazing and soldering. I've already gone behind installers to remove these fittings and braze the connections. Same with zoom lock (pro press for refrigeration)
I work in refrigeration. Me personally am iffy on using these fittings for refrigerants, but I have seen them work. Years ago one of our techs due to running out of oxygen and acetylene, used one. 4 years later, no leaks. So I guess they do work, but question is longevity and consistency.
The best part for me was the built up transition duct piece! Didnt know you could apply duct mastic seal to the inside of the duct.
I bought the die for the liquid line piston threads years ago when rheem started using aluminum threads.
It’s a life saver for damaged threads.
yeah those connectors seem pretty cool.. there are two types of them when you order them.. one is removable and the other isn't.. I think they prefer you use the non removable ones with the higher pressure systems but its been a while since I looked into them.. never used them but seems easy
Awesome vid, thanks!
Just a heads up, @12:20 you don't need the red anti-short bushing on MC cable; per NEC 330.40 fittings just need to be listed for MC and they'll take care of protecting the cable exiting the armor. Manufacturers include the bushings out of habit/old practices but they're only needed on AC, not MC. Also see NEMA bulletin 90.
He is DIY, man. So relax, old timer. 😌 my country bann shark bite, so no comments on Shark Bite.
The Zoomlock looks like a better way to avoid brazing than the crimper. My concern with the crimper is that whoever follows you has zero slack to work with. A brazed piece doesn't need to be cut, and the Zoomlock appears the same.
Thanks for making these videos!
I would sleep a lot better at night with the lines brazed. But, I'm an old timer and don't even like shark bites for plumbing :)
Wonder how it holds up when the run cap for the condenser motor quits on a budget unit with no hp cut out and the liquid line hits 450 psi.
I am old school too.
Been using Shark Bites for plumbing since 2008, never had a problem or leak.
@@dumbasshit1 Windy, don't they have an o-ring or seal that could leak after 20 years or so? Thanks
I've never lost sleep after brazing or soldering
On commercial units a refrigerant leak on a liquid line valve gets worse as the seals are refrigerated by the leak ; I am old school and do not use all this stuff , I braze !
Great video, I find in most service calls that I go to, the quick connects have leaks, on an average of 1 in 3 systems, and long-term are not a reliable solution for HVAC installations, no matter what the manufacturer says. maybe if your PSI is under 100. With new systems out there being a lot of heat pumps, they can go up to as much as 450-550 PSI in the winter in heat mode and break those quick connects easily! Plus anyone wanting a long-term install needs to braze, all these new conecters have not proven themselves 100% reliable yet.
im going to set these up in my home HVAC lab (yes I have one) and see how they do in heat mode where its not only pressure but the discharge temp on a heat pump run in 45-50f weather (yes we run our heat in that weather) is also pretty high
We have years of experiences with these , they are prone to failure sooner rather than later .
Good luck
Thanks for your input. Are you referring to hvac ones or for plumbing?
Plumbers also say shark bite are trash and leak and you shouldn’t use them. I’ve been using these for years and never an issue. Key is prep. Don’t use on dirty pipe.
I’m talking about the refrigeration ones ! We have removed nearly 100 fittings that have leaked . Within the first 2 years of being installed .
My company does not install them , just had to repair a lot of those fittings from others .
Hope you have better luck
@@mattmitchel8931 2 years seems about the norm for these fittings. Zoomlock too. I just replaced a 1-⅛ suction service valve on a Trane condenser because the bell was cut off and a press fitting was installed. It was only 3 months in. Installer left homeowner hanging. Trane denied their warranty because their IOM states make all refrigerant line connections using a filler material containing minimum of 5% silver content. Homeowner had to pay for valve, labor, and refrigerant. I've removed over 100 of these fittings because of leaks.
@@topher8634 100 for real seem like somone is exaggerating. I doubt there are that many installed across and entire state let alone the small area you service
I always wonder why the manufacturer doesn't use the flare compression fittings, just like minisplits?
I use Staybrite 8 solder instead of brazing, works great and as easy as soldering plumbing with a propane torch.
Yesir I have a video on Staybrite 8 :) excited to use it more!
@@diyhvacguy +1 on staybrite8, when i was in the HVAC business alot of us used it... wont oxidize if you keep your pipes from getting too hot.. I have joints out there that are close to 20 years no leaks.. we didnt use it on big commercial installs.. it really doesnt work well on anything above an inch.. our cutoff as a company was up to 1 inch.. to a 7/8 line with staybrite but not a 1 inch.. most DIYers wont find anything that big unless they are working on big homes.. but even then not likely..
Wouldn't want them on anything I own, tad bit expensive, cool engineering though. Definitely a game changer for home owners or DIY people.
Looks nice. For me I will let those fittings be in use for a while before considering them. It is a sediment leg and not a drip leg. (A sediment leg has gas change directions off the branch like you have. A drip let is horizontal with the branch down with the cap) Tomato tomAto I suppose 👍
I rarely subscribe to anyone's channel, but you deserve it. 🙂
I really appreciate that! Thanks for the support. I look forward to sharing more helpful hvac content with you and all my other viewers :)
So glad I found your channel. Loving all your vids. Thanks brother!
I'm sorry, but what you have done is to create a possible 4 additional leak points. If properly brazed or soldered, there is no chance of any leaks. When you drive off from the job, you don't have to worry about it.
I’m sorry but any true HVAC expert knows a perfectly sealed system doesn’t exist, so don’t try to sound like one.
I’ll trust a pro fit over a solder any day of the week
@@taylorhackney9275 I know you're sorry because a perfectly sealed system does exist if it's performed by a skilled tradesman, so don't try to sound like a HVAC expert because it's obvious you can't braze or solder.
@badger305
Nothing is 100% perfectly sealed. Even perfect brazes and solders leak at a microscopic level. It will never be an issue for the life of a unit and many years after that is what they are referring too. That's a literal fact and taught in schools, even mentioned by AC Service Tech and by Bryan Orr. Now I agree with you though, Brazing is tried and true and the best method
Water plumbing shark bite couplers only have to deal with about 50 PSI or 3 Bars. Refrigerant lines can routinely work at 160 PSI or 11Bars, so I hope Pro-fits can withstand those pressures even with vibration from motors
UL tested up to 800psi Well over the high limit pressure setting
Water pressure is considered low in some areas at 60 psi.. I would say they are good for well over 200 just to deal with different conditions. Water hammer and such
Thank you 🎉 for this video!! The soldered nitrogen joint is leaking so I believe I’m going to try this to fix it😊
Was wondering if you insulated any of the duct work after your install.. I would think that would need to happen to get any efficiency and to keep your duct work from sweating.
I'm not sure what everyone makes a big about brazing, I just solder with propane, heck the high pressure line is only in the 400psi range. Soldering doesn't crystallize the lines either
Is there still a recall on white line set insulation? Something about condensation gets trapped inside and pit holes develop in copper piping.
Wondering if you have tried SmartLock? It is not like Zoomlock Push Fittings. Twisting of nuts on each end of SmartLock is required to compress metal on metal to seal the connection.
This video is AWESOME I'M DEFINITELY SUBSCRIBED!!!!!
Using a screen gasket tool as a bead roller is a pretty good idea!!! I am curious as to why you sealed off the old 2 or 4 inch (I couldn't tell by just watching the video) filter slot, and put in a 1 inch filter slot. I would have thought a thicker filter was better.
The house we bought had a 1 inch. I cut it to make a 4. Less filter changes and they don’t cost a lot more. Best of all more air flow.
Thank you, I hav enjoyed and learned from your videos! I was wondering if argon /CO2 gas instead of nitrogen can be used to pressure test the line set.
i use it in shocks instead of nitrogen
no CO2 Has a lot of moisture with it.
i am not sure about argon.
stay with what the manufacture say, is the best bet.
We used the profit fittings for about 6 months lost quite a bit of money returning to replace them mainly on ductless systems.
Can I ask where the leaks were primarily or was it just sporadic? Thanks for the feedback.
Primary on the 1/4 and 3/8 inch fittings, they hold pressure on the initial pressure test but seem to blow out during the heating season.
I have used these for reclamation on older R22 condenser units that can be pumped down and lines cut and king valve shut. I will attach a smaller pipe with a Schraeder valve to the opposite side and I’m in business. They handle a vacuum to remove refrigerant and nice to be reused over and over again. I have seen some cut off the bell on the condenser unit line and install these. But plastic outdoors which is inside these connectors… I have my doubts with holding up to seasonal conditions of extreme temperatures. And indoors?? Well…. It’s nice to not use a torch which is safe but these have a 5yr warranty and I’m sure the plastic will break down even indoors. Brazen is still the way to go. I’m assuming you brazed the outdoor connections??
Soldered. But if the manufacturers would make the stub longer for the condensers I’d have done a crimp fitting outside
Everything is helpful thanks a lot. I just have a quick question. How do I secure the liquid the refrigerant so I can disconnect the line and tuck into the bay in my basement instead to be hanging below the joist
Hey I just found your channel. I've been interested in HVAC ever since my compressor died one HOT summer afternoon. I asked the guy to install a sight glass and he laughed at me, saying no residential customer has ever asked for that, have you ever installed one in a home? Thanks for the great videos and sharing the TONS of knowledge you have!!
a sight glass is old school, but cheap enough, and they always work. (no moving parts) I installed them at my house.
No need 4 primitive parts
@@tonyrhoton6613 ... they had their place in R-12 and R-22 systems. Back before I retired that was always my first check on a system. That and checking temp drop and a look at air filters. 90% of my work (years ago) was a visual check.... long before I broke out the gauges.
I installed one on a Goodman condenser outdoor unit .Yes you can just braze it in or use one of these fitting.
I install 2 on every system I do. One @ the condenser and one at the air handler. Not just a sight glass but combo glass/moisture indicator. Also guage ports. Yes you can ensure a full column of liquid to the expansion device by checking and adjusting subcool, and I do it anyway, but there is something satisfying to seeing it in action.
nice video @18:17 you said u will add part number but i didnt see it also i see u didnt use TXV is it optional?
Did you also use them on the condensor? Would these need to be approved in the Building Codes?
I don’t think these have been on the market that long for HVAC. It would be interesting to see a longer track record. Have you tried testing to 500 lbs with nitrogen? The molecule is smaller. I’ve had some automotive AC’s that would leak under a nitrogen test put be fine with refrigerant.
I’ll do a video soon pressure testing it! Stay tuned! Hvacknowitall did a pressure test at 500psi and it held for over a week. Check out his video on them. Cheers
They have been out for several years actually.
@@mattmitchel8931 I have heard of some failures on the water side. A few years is not long enough track record for me.
@@rodgraff1782 He said several years, not a few years. I have used them on a no flame job site, the first time I used it was 2 years ago, no issues and no leaks. Mind you, it is outside in the elements with vibration, I've had some guys brazing fail sooner than that under those conditions
@@cesarmoore7996 That’s great that those fittings are working out for you. If you have seen brazes that fail, don’t blame the process, blame the brazer
WOW.. game changer !! No fire or expensive tool needed
Nope no expensive tools... Just the even more expensive refrigerant that you'll be replacing down the road.
@@nateg08 have you seen Bluon R22 replacement
@Stanley Kania seen? Yes. I have not tried it out yet though.
@@nateg08 along with an expensive repair bill to rid the install of the quick connects.
Should go over fan wires and fan speed. I've ran into several units that had fan speed wrong. Cool should be high, black. Heat should be medium high. Some units have different colors for fan speed!
Yeah they're awesome the rectorseal brand is what the company I work for keeps in the shop
That brand has been around since indoor plumbing was invented!
How many of the push fittings do you think would be used during a normal condenser and coil install? I would think you would need:
1) 2 for condenser low side given you need 1 to extend the existing copper line and 1 to go into the condenser
2) 3 for condenser liquid line given you need one before and after liquid line filter
3) 1 for evaporator coil high side. This might be 2 if the liquid line is short.
4) 1 for evaporator coil low side . This might be 2 if the suction line is short.
Would you concur?
Why are both ends on the ac drain open? Use threaded fitting on the main and how about a float on the secondary drain…just a thought
Love your content. Installs are beautiful. Wasn’t a fan of how the whip for condenser was ran on wall
Keep the content coming.
Yea I didn’t have any conduit tied downs but this spring when I test pressures I’ll make it prettier :) thanks for the comment!
Thank you papa!!
Can you share where to buy the bending tool!
Or what brand is it please 🙏
Thank you!
Not on MY systems. They were first used on automobiles but even those joints eventually leak (the reason I learned auto HVAC in the first place). Instead of being desperate to avoid soldering wise DIYers PRACTICE ON SCRAP not the workpiece. I am a DIYer of several decades and learned long ago soldering isn't difficult, what's difficult is getting people to practice first but I don't personally choose to have that problem. Soldering is easy, fun and very useful for more than plumbing. Every DIYer should have a decent torch.
I'll use Sharkbites on EXPOSED, ACCESSIBLE plumbing like a copper line to my old claw foot tub I needed to assemble then rotate into place behind the tub but I have plenty of shutoffs to isolate any area for future maintenance and repair (I design my home plumbing for "battle damage control" since nothing lasts forever).
Shark bites have always been good when properly installed. If they work for HVAC that would be great.
Great video. Do you have any long term opinions on these push fittings for HVAC? How many jobs have you utilized these products on? Any callbacks? Would have been neat to see a bubble leak check after the install and maybe even the vacuum reading before use.
Only time will tell. But I’m willing to blaze a trail. If/when it leaks you guys will be the first to know about it. Cheers
I used one a couple years ago,on a install in a tight area on a mobile home where i didnt want to risk using my torch and its held up so far. However there super expensive and i know 100% I can trust a braze joint,but under the right circumstances I would use one again. I guess they would be good for a homeowner installing there own system who doesnt have the tool or know how.
Many years ago. (1973 ) I kept an18” x 5/8”, WITH 2 SPECIAL FITTINGS,but you needed,a propane torch,to SET,the ADHESIVE in those fittings, which,were like slip couplings, WHY ?
HUSSMANN uses ALUMINIUM EVAPS IN CASES, WHEN SOMEONE DROPS A DECKPAN,DAMAGING THE TUBING,, THATS WHY THOSE WERE FOR,, 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@cardsfan-ym1bj good to know. A little pricey however $160 or so added to the install is quite a bit cheaper than buying the actual press tool or purchasing a torch setup if you do not currently own one. The only reasonable alternative I see for a DIYer would be purchasing one of the manual press tools.
Yea we will be the first to know because they will call you and you won’t answer. Tail light warranty
I don't see a flexible duct connection on your sheet metal work. Are you going to leave your overflow for the condensate aing up & open?
Good demo on line set fittings.
16:03 scepticle of how long before a leak begins, especially outdoors with more heat cycles
So this video is at least a year old now how are those quick connect fittings holding up and do you still install those fittings
Super nice install. Thanks for a great video.
Ask a simple question in HVAC Forum and you see those angry HVAC folks attacking you and treating you like an idiot. Here you are, basically showing how it's done step by step.
NICE VIDEO! What is the part number for the female flare x braze tubing extension to adapt to the push on fitting?
Ur good man, no fluff, just info
Did you use that bending tool on the liquid line as well? Also any update on how the fitting held up sofar?
Awesome video but I thought you were going to one push fittings on the condeser as well
You’re a great teacher.
For stainless instrument tubing (10,000 psi rating) I have used double ferrule connectors. These fittings do not require any kind of flare. Obviously you don’t want to mix stainless and copper, but I wonder if someone makes something similar out of brass for HVAC lines. I have also seen fittings similar to vinegar ProPress, but for HVAC systems.
Swagelok
WOW 😲😳. Shark bite for AC System...❓❓. Will it withstand the pressure ❓❓
Can you show how you did it on the outside unit with the push on fitting. Is there enough room to cut the pipe
Nice! No trap on the condensate drain?
Just picked up the Milwaukee m12 system little aprehinsive about cutting bell off condenser
I noticed you didn’t insulate your transition. Isn’t that going to drip water all over the floor when they run the AC?
That was a very nice install, and it was very interesting. Thx 👍🏼
Perhaps post TEST with Leak detector that the zoomLocks do NOT leak refrigerant.
I’m sure someone else in here has said it. My apologies, just in case they hadn’t. Your welcome electrician needs to come back and secure that conduit down with 12” of any connection and along the conduit 12”-18”.
Would you suggest using the Pro-Fit connector on the air condenser in order to reattach the refrigeration lines? My house is older and the previous owner installed the new unit , a Goodman, on top of my septic tank. The septic system is failing and I’m positive that I will have to disconnect it. The fact that they would be exposed to outdoors is the reason for my question.
As always -great Tutorial and excellent work. I have a question . Will Those shark bites work on the new A2L Refrigerant PSI?
Yes they certainly will
@@diyhvacguyWhat about R22?
No yellow wire on thermostat? Why is it ?
Did you Zoomlock the outside connections too or brazed, can you even Zoomlock the outside connection?
Unfortunately the stub on the outside isn’t quite long enough so I Staybrite 8 soldered that joint. Supposedly they are coming out with condensers that have a real long stub so we will see :)
Nice install, but here in Ontario you can't get or buy a medium efficiency anymore.
I'm learning a lot. Thank you.
Swagelok is another option but they’re a compression style fitting not a push fitting
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Have you ever had to convert a horizontal left furnace to a horizontal right furnace. If so, any tips? Thanks
I haven’t. Why would you need to do so?
@@diyhvacguy we bought an old house and had to remodel it to where access to the horizontal furnace was on the other side. I think I’ve got it handled. I’ve got three bids for a complete new system. I’ve learned a lot watching your UA-cam channel. I’m actually having the HVAC company install the unit based on the size that you suggested.
Even with a single stage outdoor unit, would you not jump y1 and y2 in the furnace to get proper airfflow?
I'm looking to update from our old R22 system. Thanks for sharing!
If you need some help, check out our Patreon membership over at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy cheers
Don’t do it…all the new stuff is coming out with aluminum coils and piping….they’re making them so cheap and low quality I’m betting they won’t even get 5 years out of them before they start leaking all over the lines….the new type Freon isn’t as efficient…they’re “banning” it from being made in the US but it’s not illegal ..because duponts parent ran out and suddenly at the same time they decided that it was bad…my problem with the whole climate hoax is they’re labeling these gases like propane butane methane etc as ozone depleting….u can find all their charts etc online…on down the list is also carbon dioxide, oxygen, and all the gases they’re labeling the same…they plan to have all these banned in the US by 2035….what happens when they ban co2 and oxygen in a country? Everyone who is on o2 won’t be able to get it anymore….hvac is helping bring in this lunacy by perpetuating this belief that Freon is man made and needs to be banned….when u look what r22 is made of…methane butane and a bit of fluorine and chlorine to make the pressure a bit higher the r290 does…the d op in replacement for r22….r290 is propane….
at 23:04 you mention a seal being on the Inlet Tube Flowrator, what is used for that seal? thank you!
New tools and fittings!!
Ah roosters, viewers love them on my channel 😂
Yeah Sporlans are basically the same, used them but preparation and clean straight lineset is key 👌🏽
Awesome video as always sir!
I would love to see a video on static testing a new installation.
Look up "Pro Fit Quick Connect" video from Tropic Supply channel. He does a pressure test at 700PSI! RectorSeal has their own demonstration to 400 PSI... the fittings are rated to 870PSI which is more pressure than any new condenser unit operates at normally. From my research R410A's highest pressure of 645 PSI happens at 155F which is well below most test demonstrations and well below the max rated pressure of the fittings.
Seems like a great DIY option for sure! I have a 21-year-old system and using these fittings means I don't have to purchase too many special tools and would make for an easier swap of my 21-year-old Bryant unit when that time comes! The only thing I would need to get is a vacuum pump but for around 250 bucks total to get a stark pump, stark gauge set, deburring tool, pipe cutter, fittings and line set. I was quoted 12,700 to install a 2-ton Goodman system that I can order online for 2500-3000 grand! 200-300 for tools to install myself is a massive savings.
@@ShaneTheGeek What does your answer have to do with a static test? Absolutely nothing.
@@ShaneTheGeek you need to get another quote then. You can have it done professionally for much less than that. Much less.
@@nateg08 Thanks Nate yeah that was my thought as well. That quote was way-way above the average based on my research. There is another local company that I will be getting quote from that appears to have reasonable rates and does quality work.
@Shane Gray plus if you know anyone that does side work you can get it done even cheaper. I do residential side work (I do comercial hvac). I put in a 2 ton system a while back for 4k and I'm confident enough in my install practices to warranty any labor for a year. Ive got no overhead so I can underbid any company and still turn a decent profit. I'd ask around. You do want someone with a good reputation tho that's for sure. There is a lot of people who will do a hack job and disappear on you unfortunately.
On a new Goodman aren't the connections too close together on the condenser to use the push on connector, also if you cut off the factory connectors will the tubing be long enough? Looks like only 3/4" will be left.
Where's the part number for the copper fitting you used on the liquid line?
Hello, I love your videos. I have learned a lot. How is zoomlock connection you made holding up? Did you experience any issues? I plan to use quick connect - pro-fit for my install. I plan to install MrCool Universal heatpump 4-ton unit. I cannot use their quick connects because I plan to reuse my existing copper lines.
Just curious. What about using compression fittings. I know some of those are rated pretty high for psi.
Hmmm... Cool. Just used SB on my new water heater a few years ago.
Did you use the quick fittings on the other end where it connects to the condenser or did you braze? Also i didn't see a link for the 3/8 adapter extension you used on the evaporator side.
thank you for sharing your skills..! one day i'm have to use these tips to replace my rentals unit.!
If you need help, feel free to email me at diyhvacguy@gmail.com
Any recommendations on how to discharge the refrigerant liquid? I’m Home owner and these lines are hanging below the joists in my basement and I’m trying to talk them into the base so I can finish up my basement later on thank you
I have seen these but will they stand the test of time. I am 68 and still work but planning out my retirement date I will continue to braze and flare fittings.
I totally respect that 👊🏼