Soldering An HVAC Line Set Using Staybrite 8. STRONGER THAN BRAZING!
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2023
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Hey bro, just wanted to say thank you! My AC was been down for a month or so.. I called a company to diagnose the issue, and they ended up coming out and telling me it’s not worth the diag due to age (less the 9 year old system) they quoted $17k..
Studied your videos, and decided to tackle it my self..
I found a bad leak on the low side line under my house, at a 90 degree fitting.
Used your videos to learn the recovery process, soldering with staybrite, charging, and checking pressures.
AC going out used to be a huge stresser as a home owner, and I had doubts that could do it... but now that I have the tools and some knowledge.. it’s no big deal.. thanks from a now cold family in Florida❤️
That’s amazing!!! Thanks so much for sharing. I love to hear when a homeowner can save money and acquire a skill in the meantime 👊🏼
0⁰I will send
I just hate it when a contractor does this. Most of the skills and tools are beyond most homeowners and they take advantage of that. Glad it worked out for you. I just watched the video for the solder part. Brazing has always been hard for me so this intrigued me. I may be hanging up my torch.
Wow that is so nice save money and have a cold house now specially in this hot summer..
@@diyhvacguyhi my friend where you live I need a help from you thanks
In the HVAC field for 32 years I tried Staybrite on a few installations always tested with nitrogen and pulled a vacuum to below 500 microns had 2 installations leak after a few years never used it again. 15% silver and flow nitrogen
Staybrite is not good for anything that experiences vibrations. If it truly was a superior product then large commercial cooling machines would use staybrite. Guess what, we don't lol.
Brazing is weaker and more prone to leak than higher end solders. Brazing weakens the copper because of the high heat required to make the joint. During pressure tests of brazed copper joints and staybrite 8 the brazed copper pipes burst before the soldered copper every time. HVAC Engineers know this yet brazing is still pushed as an industry standard for some reason.
I've been in the HVAC field for over 40 years and have always used #15 (or #45) solder for brazing. I've never had any leaks, and I've never seen copper derogation because of Brazing as suggested. I have seen this solder used as well and have seen leaks within 6 months. I'm not a fan of using plumbers solder for HVAC and Pro-Press either. Not sold.
@@briannatarelli430 Because the acid that is reacts with the gas, and can cause damage the pumps..... Weaker copper or weaker joints aren't exactly the problem.. If properly applied both work. both are well above safety standards. Both have a skill cap. One appears easier, but can cause damage to equipment, The other won't join and won't cause damage to equipment because the problem will get caught earlier.
@@Hamuel89 If you apply the flux properly it doesn't get into the line set. I know this because if you cut the copper joint open there is no extra flux on the inside of the joint.
You are so thorough in your work performance and directives. I am a Plumber primarily and simply come here to learn (obviously) and simply enjoy your teaching. YOU are an absolute professional. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God Bless you.
Used this and its going. I installed it myself 2019! Still keeping cool and learn alot about HVAC
Great soldering and nice video. I’m also saying big thanks for the very clear and well spoken communication. Cheers.
Studying for my EPA 608. Can’t wait for the video. Thanks for the videos you make. 💯🔥🤙
Can you show me where can you find the EPA 608 materials to study?
Awesome tools they make these days! What a change from when I played with this stuff ages ago.
StayBrite...Perfect for dryers...I still cool the service valves while connecting, but use it there too...thanks for the video.
Safety tip have a spray bottle of water when soldering in an attic ,crawl space , or any confined area …
Keep up the good work 👍
Awesome video! Thanks so much for your hard work! Currently sitting upstairs and it’s ice cold!!
A huge thank you to you! Just switched out my hvac system - used staybrite 8 - worked great, saved thousands!
Amazing! Thanks so much for sharing!
Dude you keep blowing my mind with how well your videos are! super super helpful. I've been in the HVAC world for two years now and I wished I would have found your videos and tools list sooner. I do mainly new construction but also do finish work.
Thanks bro! I appreciate the feedback! Glad they are helping you out 👊🏼
Dont trust this guys advice as PRO because he is not. He will get you fired for his advice.
@@eddevoe2519 The guy is a licensed contractor… I have not seen very many of his videos… But, with one exception of violating NEC line of sight on a disconnect I have not seen anything seriously wrong… Although, I would do a number of things difference…
Put my Goodman unit in myself 3 years ago. Did everything but do the Brazing joints, including all the closet repair work and new Plenum Box, new Pad, and disconnect. Paid my neighborhood HVAC Tech to solder the joints and do a complete test and inspection of the entire system. He had a $1,000 Gage system had knew exactly how to use it. Charged me 2 hours for his time and expertise. He had the correct tools/parts which are difficult and expensive to buy locally. Tech made adjustments to my blower fan speed because the air was too cold coming out of my vents. Solder is NOT Brazing and this is not a copper water line. I can solder, braze and weld no problem. I have a roll of Staybrite 8 in my solder/brazing kit. I don't own a 3/4" copper tubing bender. Now my neighbor is my AC tech and does my annual check ups. My system runs great.
Thanks for sharing!!
One of my favorite videos you've done!!! Great job, brother! God bless!
Going to be diy 2 mini splits in my motorcoach. Longtime plumbing soldered. Was dreading a ton of brazing because I have to custom build my hvac copper. The Staybrite 8 looks a little like a godsend to me, since I'll be working in the area of the diesel tank. Map Gas is so much easier than acetylene acetylene . Thanks for your instructional help
Thank you for showing proper temperature compensated pressure decay test and vacuum setup and vacuum decay test.
Been using Staybrite for 25 years and haven’t had an issue. I do sometimes hesitate using it on the hot gas side on some commercial equipment. Everywhere else 👍 especially Txv replacements,, perfect.
Same here
Will this solder be adaquate for a/c system? I thought you had to braze the lines of an a/c unit.
Hey can you use staybrite 8 on a heat pump
I want to believe is good for a/c units but I don’t know, can it really handle all the pressure?
@@elleondejuda4681 do not use Staybrite on a hot gas line. Silfos only
So grateful to you pros sharing you knowledge and producing these videos. Mad respect for your skills bro
Thank you to all these newbies using this! 👍 Bc I Love that solder!!!! I Make ALOT of $$$ repairing them (w/ Harris 15% silver stick,) bc they ALWAYS Leak.
Right on brotha I scratch your back you scratch mine…. Wait. What I heard was, you’ve fixed some soldered joints in the past. Was it sb8? 🤷🏻♂️ did they know how to solder? 🤷🏻♂️ I’ve talked to many hvac guys using staybrite 8 for the past 20 years with zero leaks. It’s probably user error bro.
@@diyhvacguy lol, Very poss. h/o maybe used Plumbers? They'll never say tell the truth. Keep trucking Brother
I was taught to use staybrite by an old guy in his 70s who swore he never had a callback due to a bad joint. In the 10 years I've been using it since I've never had a leak or any refrigerant based callback myself. Had to replace a few dead caps, some bad wiring, one cracked heat-x, a few bad boards, but never a refrigerant issue.
LMFAO - nice story bro - I have been using Sta-brite since it became commonly available long before Sta-brite8, and I do commercial heavy industrial hvac installation/service for a living. I have used it for 43 YEARS, and to date ZERO of my tens of thousands of installs have EVER had a leak! You sir are full of shit!
Most techs say stay Brite 8 is only for low pressure refrigeration systems. 410a has a high side that may possibly hit 500+psi. Stay Brite says it's good for 32k NM per cm strength. It's right on the borderline of failability. Rather than take chances ...techs use brazing rods. But half don't know how to braze properly anyway. So why not use stay Brite on your personal system. I do. Never had a issue
Been using stay bright 8 since 1985 works good
One of the best narratives I have seen. Great job man !! Thanks
Thanks once again! Can’t wait for your next video! 👍
Great Training! Thanks for the details. The DIY HVAC Guy has the best videos on the WEB
Thanks so much! That means a lot to me :)
Hey man! I just finished running a new line for my AC. Thanks for the videos and your very easy to understand explanations. The builder of the home undersized our unit so I had to run new lines for our new unit. It wasn’t hard, other than boring a hole through my basement wall. Long story short, the basement is finished and we didn’t want to demo the ceiling etc. so I went thru a small channel visible from the mechanical room all the way to the opposite side of the house, a real doozy! 😅😅 We are also replacing the furnace because it’s undersized too, plus the units are 30+ years old, so it was time for an upgrade. The most important part of this DIY project is the amount of savings, even with the special tools, new AC and furnace, I am way below my lowest quote of $9,000 just for an AC install. It’s crazy! I am close to $6,000, and I am getting a set of some new cool tools for my shop in the process. Thanks man! And keep the videos coming, they are exactly what us DIYers need.
Incredible video, well explained with valuable information, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
So, I've been a HVAC residential and commercial tech/installer/estimator for 35+ years, so hear me out. #1, always flow nitrogen through the line set while brazing. Now that being said, the low temp used here would probably not cause sever ash content inside the pipe. But it is critical that the line set stays completely clean, hence the flux used on the joint. I would think residue would find it's way into the pipe. #2- It's a good practice to evacuate the line set before you do a pressure test with the nitrogen, here's why. If the nitrogen is mixed with ambient air under pressure, the outdoor temp cane effect the pressure. Hotter it gets, pressure will raise in the line set. Evacuate first, watch the gauges for a few minutes to see if the pressure rises (possible leak under a vacuum), if all looks good, then add the nitrogen into the vacuum to the desired test pressure. Nitrogen is an inert gas, meaning it doesn't react to heat nearly as much as ambient air. This will give you a more accurate pressure test. Good luck
Nitrogen isn’t *inert*. It just doesn’t support combustion with most materials.
Being inert has nothing to with thermal expansion.
Being inert refers to not being involved in chemical reactions.
Nitrogen is *dry*. There mean that it doesn’t contain water vapor.
Water vapor pressure is what fluctuates excessively with temperature changes.
@@denverbraughler3948 You are wrong,Canadian scientist Bar Jlei made chemical reactions with inert gases in 1962.Nitrogen is absolutely an inert gas,restudy the book pls.
I wonder what nitrogen does when used as a shield gas for TIG welding?
We use argon as it is inert , I'm sure nitrogen should work but I wonder what weld properties it might have.
@@michaelszczys8316 It would be very difficult to start and maintain an arc. Worse yet the weld puddle would absorb the nitrogen, causing hard spots, it's almost as bad as oxygen. That's why argon and sometimes argon/helium mixtures are used as shielding gas for TIG.
@@davidmarquardt9034 one time where I work tig welding they got a tank of argon with 10 % carbon dioxide by mistake and asked if I could use it. I gave it a try and while it welded fairly normal there was a thing I welded, while I had it hooked up, that was going to be machined and they asked me what I welded it with as it was hard as rock and tearing up carbide cutters.
Apparently that 10% made a big difference.
You soldered that pipe really amazing
Great video. I've been using Staybrite #8 for years.
Thanks for sharing! It’s great to hear of fellow sb8 believers
video ,well done, I tried staybrite myself yesterday, absolutely would not stick to condenser tubing, followed your example exactly.
Did you forget to flux? I did that once and it wouldn’t stick whatsoever
I love your UA-cam and thank you sharing your Soldering An HVAC Linest Using Staybrite 8.
I'm only 40, but learned the old school ways of brazing. I've tried HVAC Super Pro (no luck, too many blowouts, very particular about how you apply it), as well as Staybrite (doesn't like filling gaps - otherwise it can be handy) and crimping (expensive and I am not thrilled about o-rings). I'll probably braze until I die.
Brazing is correct for HVAC!! Solder is appropriate for plumbing!
Absolutely. Brazing is superior as far as I’m concerned. Fills gaps, no flux, no cleaning. Just down and dirty 💯
@@tycobb8621 I know we would all love to ditch the heavy nitrogen tanks and torch kit, but brazing is where it's at!
Just FYI...there are no-braze/no-solder HVAC fittings now, in the manner of SharkBite fittings for plumbing...not sure if they can be used in every code area, but they're available. Kinda pricy, too.
@@mcburcke I've seen them. I am skeptical about their longevity. I have a hard time trusting sharkbite and they run at a fraction of the pressures that say 410A would. Not hating, just skeptical. Some day I will try them. Maybe I'll try them on my next home system change-out so I can see how long they last.
well explained professionally. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for the videos. They are extremely helpful.
I have had good results with Zero-Sil. It's a 15 % phosphorus copper alloy. Melting point is close to 1350 degrees f. And I always flow dry nitrogen or argon through the lines. Been using phosphorus bronze rods for over 35 years and never had an issue. The larger units I built had integral horsepower semi-hermetic Copelemetic compressor with VibSorb connectors at suction and discharge. I was designing and building dehumidifiers for low temperature lumber dry kilns. They worked well. Most used R290. 😊
Excellent presentation thank you for sharing all of this.
Nice vacuum setup.. as you said, best I have seen..
Very instructive video, thank you and thanks for the Staybrite 8 kit & tool tips.
I was taught that as a general rule its best to open the suction king valve at the condenser first so that when you start up the system all of the oil that left out into the suction line will quickly return to the compressor.
That makes sense!
Another awesome video dude! Thank you for sharing Ability Refrigerants. I Just ordered a bottle of R22 and you saved me a bunch of money. You wouldn’t believe what the supply houses in California are charging for a 30lbs bottle. Thank you again.
@Nobody Maybe he has an EPA 68 license. I just bought one as well and I have an EPA 68 license.
Well my local one wants $1782
Hey Nobody, I’ve been 608 EPA certified for over 8 years now. Take your negativity somewhere else.
Jbasto97 my local here wants $2,200.
@@SomeoneImportantLikeYou - Angry much? Lol.
ive been using Staybright 8 for 15 years or so and no leaks.. last year I took a system out I had replaced in 2009 which had never needed any refrigerant.. it got whacked by lightning so I puled it out but staybright 8 will fill the gaps and flow nicely if you hit the pipe evenly.. always rosebud for me... when repairing coils and piping inside a minisplit staynbright8 is a godsend as I dont have to heat that thin pipe so hot.. the chinese piping can be thin.. staybright melts at low temp so you can get it hot enough without trashing the fins on a coil.. I tried HVAC super pro years ago but it melted under the heating cycle of a heatpump and leaked...
Very nice! Thanks for sharing. Keep em coming. I’m in the process of planning my system.
Do you know if you need to add any thread sealant or tape when you attach the TXV to the connection points? I didn’t see any but thought I’d ask.
I'm not a Tech but I used this Staybrite 8 7- years ago when I installed a Complete A/C system and NG furnace. Until today has no issue 😂👍👍,...... I'm still Learning
Very clean and neat job I've never soldered my line sets but I now I would who would have thunk it but curious why not hang that line sets to rafters instead of the floor you do a very good job impressed
I love StayBrite, it’s so convenient especially in an attic, no need to lug the big torches up there and heat up an already scorching hot attic.
Only thing is there always needs to be a snug fit, don’t try to fill in big gaps like brazing, use proper fittings.
Pretty sure you can braze 3/4 with mapp gas no prob.
Every time you add flux for a joint your adding acid to a refrigeration system
Great job!
Soft solder for hvac, never realized. This is the only video I’ve found using it.
1108.3.3 Soldered joints.
Joint surfaces to be soldered shall be cleaned and a flux conforming to ASTM B813 shall be applied. The joint shall be soldered with a solder conforming to ASTM B32. Solder joints shall be limited to refrigerant systems using Group A1 refrigerant and having a pressure of less than or equal to 200 psi (1378 kPa).
That is probably why you've never realized because its against code
Looks so much better also. Less heat involved
Your right about the staybrite 8 but most codes require brazed joints.
Also wanted to comment on the sloppy line set in the attic, really didn't think about service ability running that line like that infront of the furnace and taking up a bunch of storage space for the customer running it along the attic floor. Not trying to knock you bro, just something to think about. Also really dig your vacuum set up.
great video, very educative. Thanks for posting
Mapp gas with Staybrite 8 is where it's at. That said I'm a little hesitant to do so without the valves covered and the Schrader cores removed. I also feel better flowing some nitrogen but have no evidence that it is actually needed.
I've also used a hand swaging tool instead of connectors so the tube I.D. and O.D. are tight.
Oh nitrogen does make a huge difference. The amount of deposits left in there without is crazy.
One thing I always do is when doing installs are removing the straighter valves an disconnecting the txv or piston lines.
It's a shame you can't get real mapp in the US anymore. You can braze with real mapp any not have to bother with Acetylene. The 'map' they sell in stores now is just propylene and only burns a few hundred more degrees than propane. It the real stuff is methylacetylene and burns almost 1000 degrees hotter. You can do most Acetylene work with it, especially with oxygen. I hate you can't get it in the states anymore. I hoarded a big tank and a few smaller ones due to this.
Thank Goodness for Goodman the BESTEST HVAC EQUIPMENT IN THE WORLD!!!!!
One small piece of advice. On the core remover, always shutoff and remove the pusher to verify the core is gone before removing the tool. Last thing you want is to assume it went it and you got liquid spraying out on you. Love your setup and organization.
That’s a good point! Noted! Thanks man!
I will never forget that lol
Make sure your reg is backed off and when you turn on that nitrogen bottle on make sure the reg screw is not pointing at you. If the regulator has failed on the inside it could shoot that screw out like a bullet.
Good to know. Thanks for the tip bro
Thanks for the video
Great video. I would hire this guy in a microsecond!
Great Video man! Appreciate the info!
Great video!!! Keep=on Keppin On!
Beautiful!!! Install, I couldn’t choose a different word. My bad😊
Very neat soldering! Great work
Awesome info 😎👍🏻
Excellent video. You did the job just like I do except I am still using a corded vacuum pump and I lightly flux the female fittings with a Q-tip. The Trublu hose is at least 4 times faster. I have been using Stay-Brite 8 on new installs and new copper joints for many years. NO flowing nitrogen, NO hauling an oxy-acetylene rig under a house, in an attic, or on a roof, and NO leaks. If you are really competent at brazing then you can become competent using Stay-Brite 8 in under 15 minutes.
It’s very hard to use the core removal tools. I tried a lot of times- it doesn’t work….. I don’t know why…. I work without this tool .
@@yuriigorg721 A lot of times the Schrader cores can get stuck inside the access port. Maybe it was cross-threaded when it was put in, maybe the o-ring fattened up or got chewed up and the core doesn't slide nicely out of the port, etc. Schrader cores in general can be very annoying at times.
been using it for yrs but have to make sure your joints a super clean even with 410 a
Always open the suction valve first on a new condensing unit before opening the liquid line, the reason is the refrigerant in the condensing unit precharged by the manufacturer will be condensed in the compressor at the bottom of it typically, the compressor oil be separated from the refrigerant and sitting above it inside the compressor. Basically inside the compressor there will be a layer of refrigerant under the oil, and if you open the suction line first the refrigerant will change state and suck some of the oil out too into the suction line, and when you start the system for the first time will be sucked backed into the compressor.
If you open the liquid line first the oil and refrigerant will go out into the liquid line and has to travel through all the piping and coil before it gets back to the compressor, and the compressor will more likely have less oil in it to lubricate it properly and could damage it.
Always a good idea to remove service port shraeder ports, and protect the valves with a wet rag too.
Staybrite would be illegal in my state of MA as it's not approved for R-410 systems due to higher pressures etc. From memory and someone else can look ip the specs (as I am to lazy too) brazing rod is good for something like 3000 psi, but after you heat it up and braze pipes something like only 1500 psi, Staybrite is something like 1200 psi max again from memory and I do like it and you don't get any oxidation inside the pipe unless you use way to much heat.
I’ve heard SO SO many differing opinions on this. A lot of people say the instructions say crack the liquid first. I’ve done it both ways with no I’ll effect either way so I’m unsure on that one. I don’t think it matters honestly
You have a good material
Man im glad you use copper coupling
Thanks for sharing this video❤🎉
Hey!!!!! I just see your video.
Good job bro I am gonna try it it’s might make the job easy.
Awesome vacuum set up man! Also I noticed that you had the evaporator coil already installed by the time you checked to see if it was pressurized. I would recommend save yourself time and check to see if your coil has pressures prior to installation. Would hate to see an empty coil after it has been installed
That’s a great point. I’ll definitely start implementing that!! Cheers man
@@diyhvacguyHave Question on the NEW refrigerant coming out. When it will happen and Can we still install R410 A when the New refrigerant comes out ❓❓
I love staybrite 8. I suck at brazing. Plus, it anneals the copper and can damage it too easily.
This is like my first day at work
Nice informative video of a very neat and clean installation. I am surprised though you didn't add any more refrigerant though. Goodman units come precharged for about 15feet of line set and from the video someone can see that just the rise (2 floors) is 16 feet. Therefore I expected to see you add more R410. In this Goodman set up with TXV the Subcooling should be 8 +-1 degree if the system is properly charged. Not sure if you missed those from the video due to time.
Again this video should be an example of how to do a proper installation for several technicians out on the field. Thanks for sharing.
Yes I did add refrigerant. I show this in some of my other videos. My apologies for any confusion.
Thank you !
Standard charge is good for 15 feet of line set. You have way more than 15 feet of line. Additional refrigerant needs to be added at the rate of 0.6 oz per foot of line over 15 feet which I did not see addressed. I didn't see you check system pressures and adjust to subcooling which is what TXV's require. I can almost guarantee there is a low charge in the system causing the 22 delta at a vent which should be more in line with 18 or 19 at the vent. Delta should be taken at the coil, directly before the return air hits the coil and directly after the supply air exits the coil for best measurement. Too low a pressure at the coil can cause icing which hinders airflow. My own Goodman 3 ton calls for 11 degree subcooling and 21 degree delta which I get at the coil. I get 18 to 19 at the closest vent 3 feet from the coil. Hope this helps for future DIY'ers.
Love u videos...one of the best UA-cam teachers ,💯how often u need to renew the EPA..
Never! Once and done
I have used stay bright 8 for many years, so long can't remember back that far. ON issues.
Brazing copper causes it to become annealed, which results in a reduction in the strength of the pipe. The pressure of the refrigerant causes pin holes and splits in annealed copper pipe.
huh? ridged copper pipe vs a roll of annealed copper, if it is a line set then it is annealed copper, if you buy ridged copper pipe then it is not annealed. one is on a roll the other is long straight pipes, so dumb.
Homeowner should get a lineset cover instead of strapping it. Can even order from the big box stores. Makes it look like a rain gutter and protects the insulation from weather. Annoying that Goodman put the drier inside the compressor, had a great opportunity to install it near the TXV and keep it out of the weather. On another note, I spent 2 hours looking for my nitrogen and finally realized I had put a length of 8" round duct over the bottle to keep it from being bumped around - so always check your ducts haha
Any mechanics out there with a socket style torque wrench, you can use a flare crowfoot socket - as long as you are checking torque with the socket at 90 degrees to left or right, the torque will be accurate. If measuring lineset length to check amount of refrigerant to add, easier to subtract total length of lineset subtract length of each piece you cut off - vs trying to measure the actual lineset length. 25:00 also there's a position on the service valve that shuts off the ports!
Awesome tips. Thanks brotha!
Most excellent
Nice video!!!!!! When soldering the condenser I always wrap the king valves and remove the valve cores just for general principle. Staybright is an excellent solder, however it' strength is subject to temperature. I don't use it on heat pumps, but, straight cool units are fine. On heat pumps I use 45% silver solder and solder with a turbo torch with a 1/4 tip. I am a mechanical contractor in Florida where heat is a big factor and have been in the business for over 45 years. Only one suggestion! Wrap or remove any components with neoprene seals as it will save any problems in the future. I do a lot of work with and for Lennox and one of my biggest problems is leaking king valves that have to be replaced because of over heating! One other suggestion, before soldering, practice with a scrap of copper as this will help you avoid overheating components. BTW, I am also an instructor and ran a company with 80 employees with 20 service trucks and 3 install trucks. Again, nice video, maybe just a couple tweaks would make it a little better!!!!!!!
After watching a video where the people test brazing how the high heat weaking the copper, i end up using staybite. No problem so far for 3 years so far.
Thanks for this great tutorial All your Tutorials are great. So much controversy of brazing versus staybrite. I don’t know if staybrite can be used on the newer A2L systems or not? Are the compressors soldered or brazed from the manufacturers and if one were to replace a compressor with all the movement isn’t it better to Braze?
You are the man, brother.
When you open the valve for the freon flow thru the line, be aware that the sensor vacuum reader gets wet with freon with that config, you should use another valve remover to close it before open the valve
Great work
Excellent video
Your videos rock.
I got this same Goodman. and I used the same solder when I did mine. When the HVAC guy came out to replace my heat pump because Goodman would not sell me a new Heat pump, he seen I used solder he thought I used like the lead solder stuff and I showed him the roll and he was like ok that will work great. when he replaced my unite he said he can braze it or use my solder because it takes less heat with the solder and it sucks in better than brazing, and they hardly ever crack or leak, He said that brazing, likes to leak if the ends are not completely clean, and he said brazing likes to let in carbon when nitrogen is not used.
Very good nice explanatory
10:14 man i was laughing so hard that was great lol. Thanks for these vids too im about to change out the system at my house and these will help.
Nice job.
Sir You are an Hvac God!!
Nah, just sharing knowledge and learning more every day 👍🏼 cheers man
Recently was trained on Bosch equipment and I was surprised that they actually recommend soldering with StayBrite 8 over brazing
Really? I’d love to hear more about this! Can you shoot me an email at diyhvacguy@gmail.com?
Cheers brother
stay brite is awesome
Thanks 🙏
Looks good for all joints except compressor outlet through condenser input. Have you ever seen it used on compressor output? Not sure if I would trust it for approaching 300 degs F and lots of vibration stress on compressor high side outlet.
Nice video was wondering with the long line set should of add refrigerant check sub cool.
Yes I did, I ran out of time to film that part.
also, always check your condensate pump actually discharges !
Amazing explanation
Regard
You are an inspiring guy. And I guess others might have mentioned, but shouldn't you wear safety goggles (with tinting) while brazing with an acetylene torch?
Just got my first bottle of 410a from ability refrigerant.
Great video