Casting Bottles and Cans In Epoxy Resin // How To // Deep Pour
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- This is the how to step by step process I use to cast any object, including pop and beer bottles or cans. It doesn’t matter if you want to cast a can of White Claw or a family heirloom the process is the same. I cast a Coca Cola bottle in a single pour at 9 inches deep without the use of a degassing chamber. With perfectly crystal clear results. The same process can be used to get any clear epoxy resin pour crystal clear. Turn on the subtitles or audio to hear the way I do it.
Besides preserving something important, these castings make nice decor items. They have also been used by companies to uniquely display a new product. Additionally they have also had bottle openers added to the bottom or drilled out to be used as beer tap handles.
Few things I forgot to mention in the video:
-Drill a hole in the cooler or leave the plug open to allow the water to drain.
-Elevate the piece on a scrap piece of wood wrapped in sheathing tape when doing the flood coat.
-This video shows you don’t need a degassing chamber to get great results but if you want to guarantee crystal clear epoxy use one.
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Nice! I didn't even think to put ice in a container to slow down the cure, smart! Love how one of your "favourite" items is Fireball... that's nobody's favourite :)
thanks! ha it burns so good
Glad I watched this. I always stir epoxy like a made man to combine.
Mortgage & Mitre thanks for watching, ya I used to also but if it’s going to be clear slow and steady wins the race.
Very informative! Keep it up! loving this
Thank you
I would have never thought of the ice bath to slow the cure, thanks!
Hope it helps!
Gotta do this for my favorite beer. Maybe some practice one first though
Depends on what your favorite beer is?
That's so awsome om learning from everyone. Great job
Thank you hope it helps
one of the best tutorial ever found. Cheers mate :)
Thank you
Add," break in emergency " 🤣
I saw the Black Forest River company do this it looks pretty cool and you did a great job problem is other those are unsellable due to high cost of resin you'd have to sell that for $200 to make any money and who's going to pay that much for a coke bottle in resin.
Closer to $300 each and these are all sold plus a few others I’ve made
Thank you for the video! It’s awesome. Also, it is way more complex that I thought. Clearly explained.
Enmanuel Ramon glad you liked it thanks for watching. Takes a bit of work but the results are pretty cool.
Nice video. That damn bubble under the cap.
Thanks, yeah tricky little bubble oh well
Very nice! 👌
Wow, that is very cool. Awesome job, man!
Thank you!
For Halloween do a shrunken head or something. That would be cool.
Oonagh72 great idea I might just do that!
Very clever!
Too Ticky thank you
2 quick questions:
1. Where did you get the coke bottle from?
2. Which brand of resin would you recommend for this project?
Looking to do this for the first time and also would appreciate ideas on other first project to do and practice on!! Thanks so much!
1. The bottle is from Walmart, it’s their “retro” glass bottles
2. I recommend any of the following Wisebond, Super clear 2.0 or Incredible solutions
Look into a degassing chamber for. The epoxy prior to pouring if your new to epoxy. You can do it with anything really, I’ve seen it all from fresh food to glass bottles to plastic models. I would recommend picking the same type of material to practice on. EG. Practice on glass objects if your final pour is a glass object.
very cool !!!
Thank you
Very cool
Sergio thank you
A chiseled ice look would have looked cool (not a pun lol) but that is some clear resin you got going on there.
Great idea I may have to try something like that next. Thank you
Cool!!
Hi, thanks for your video ! After few years, have you noticed any disbonding effect at the interface between glass and resin ?
I'm working on the same kind of project and wondering if temperature variations could lead to this kind of phenomena.
Hey nothing so far, I have two in my possession still and they look as good as they did when I poured them. No yellowing or separation.
What kind of temperature variations are you having?
Looks great... how about casting food in resin? Burgers Fries ice creams etc
Thanks yes food has been done, another maker did a Hot Dog in a bun. Ice cream wouldn’t work it would melt. The food stays preserved because there is no oxygen once cured. A degassing chamber is necessary with food though.
Instead of a hardener would it be acceptable to just use a cure chamber?
A degassing chamber? But no the resin requires the hardner for the chemical reaction to work.
Awesome job! I would like to cast filled beer bottles in resin for the front of an outdoor bar. The size of the bar front is 4 x 6 . Any suggestions as to how to do such a large scale project successfully?
4x6 inch is a pretty big cast. I would practice smaller before jumping into something so ambitious. The biggest obstacle will be cooling it, a pour that big will get very very hot and you need to keep it cool until cured. Secondly use a degassing chamber/pot with a pour that large slow stirring and cooling won’t make it air free. The heat will cause more air to be turned up. Good luck if you have any questions feel free to ask.
@@ToolsThatBuild Thanks! That was very helpful.
Please excuse my ignorance bud what stops the epoxy from sticking the acrylic sheet to the form?
Same as the sheathing tape, epoxy only sticks to porous surfaces so the acrylic doesn’t stick. That being said it does stick a little that’s why it usually breaks when you remove it. Not sure that’s the answer you needed or not
Thank you, this video is super helpful. Do you seal the label on the bottles with anything. I'm in the UK and doing a resin block order currently with Lea & Perrins bottles. I've used three coats of water based sealer prior to pouring (deep cast in HDPE moulds) and there is slight staining to the labels. Any tips, I am worried to pour the final layer in case I ruin the labels
Thanks, the labels are painted on in this video but you can seal the labels in epoxy prior to pouring but similar to the sealer it will appear wet when you do the final pour. When I do paper or organic matter I seal in thick table top epoxy prior to deep pour.
Doesn’t the bottom get sticky or tacky after the flood coat? How do you finish it after the flood coat?
It doesn’t no, the casted bottle sits on a small block of wood wrapped in the red tuck tape. I forgot to show the block but basically the flood coat drips off the bottom and then any drips left on the bottom just get sanded the same way as the rest of it.
I have watched you video many times, thank you. Do you have a on line store? where we can buy products for our own projects.
Unfortunately I do not have an online store but I’m happy to help you find anything you need to get started.
Now that what its about... 110% energy &efficiency to the project...that factory + right there... I have a coke bottle with my name on it.. how much to do that to mine?
Appreciate it! I’m no longer producing them like I was. I can refer you to some other makers that do a great job at it. The cost and the amount of time it takes was causing me to have to charge too much.
@@ToolsThatBuild understandable ...with price of supplies still going up I know without mass production... one offer's cost way more to do... I'm just not equipped to attempt it. Would like the contact info if u can.
@@mv4463 exactly big companies usually commission them but unless I get a bunch ordered it’s costly. The only other guy that does them to this quality is Matt his website is www.mwwfurniture.com/contact
Send him an email
Have found your video's wonderful. I am trying to start to cast bottles in resin. You say you do not need a pressure pot of pump. Of all the tutorials I have watched, you make the most sense. So please help if you can. I want to pour the kind of bottles you show. I have mixed lots of resin, but the bubbles are still there. I have watched you and you stir slow, which I do, I use a wood tongue suppressor, still some bubbles. Is there any way, you can show a tutorial with a little bit more info. thank you in advance.
Hey thank you, a pressure pot is the sure way to make sure there is no air, doing it without one does take practice. Cooling the epoxy to extend cure times is crucial to making sure no bubbles are generated from the heat created by the curing epoxy. Also a fully sealed form is important. I’m not sure how much more I can show you it’s basically all here but practicing. A pressure pot is the easy way out but feel free to ask any more questions
What chemical did you use in the last, to recover that transparent look?
Epoxy, I go into detail about the type (tabletop) and the reasons I use a different epoxy for covering it in the video
Could you do a super-deep pour in the winter (say outside in around freezing temps) instead of using ice?
You could, some people have used fridges on low as a more convenient method. The problem with outside is maintaining a constant temperature, possible moisture and of course not freezing the epoxy. The goal is to keep the epoxy from getting to the point of boiling to slow the cure time and reduce bubble build up. You don’t want too cold or too hot. I like ice because I can add and remove depending on pour size.
You do not mention what brand of resin you use, it actually is blocked out in the video. Do you have a preference, as you are pouring very deep and it would help if I could have some guidance. Thank you again
Hey for deep pour I don’t recommend the epoxy I used. I recommend using either wisebond, super clear 2.0, or Incredible solution epoxy. Remember to keep it cool and to consider using a degassing chamber.
Give it so a video on Germany
can you dip the edge of a cut wine bottle?
Most likely but you’d have to be more specific on what your trying to do.
Amazing work. Could someone be able to do this, obviously not with edges, without power tools? Thanks in advance.
Thank you, at a bare minimum you would need a sander and a saw. Without them it wouldn’t be very square.
Did you replace the ice over the 3 days so the epoxy maintained 32 deg F or was the ice allowed to melt allowing the temp of the epoxy to rise?
The ice is replaced until the epoxy is cured. I don’t maintain 32F it’s warmer than that since the ice is only about half way up. The epoxy will boil at these depths without it or flash cure.
I'm here from reddit and wow it's awesome! How long have you been working with resin?
Mariana Elisa Moreno Martínez thank you! Couple years off and on, took a while to get to this point.
do you think this is possible without power tools? could just sandpaper and a lot of time get this done?
Hey in theory it would be possible, it would be difficult to square up and i can’t imagine how long it would take to do that much sanding but eventually you could get there. Epoxy is also quite toxic so if your going to do that much sanding make sure your wearing a good mask and are in a well ventilated area.
thanks!
Gonna try this. I have no idea why but I collect mtn dew …..think it stemmed from never having cool stuff in canada and whenever we crossed the border they always seemed to have a different flavor, but I noticed that when people collect bottles and stuff they lose their air (in plastic) so I’m hoping this will stop that process
Make sure if your deep pouring to these depths on plastic that the cooling is done well it can get quite hot and melt/miss shape the plastic.
I'm trying to do this with my dad's Urn. Hoping to find a place to do it. The urn is going to Fort Custer National Cemetery. So I wanna make sure the urn is sealed correctly in the expoxy. I don't think I have the nerves to do this. Wish I did though
You want to encase it or flood coat it? A flood coat is fairly simple and affordable. Try it on something else first. Encasing it like these bottles I would recommend some practice
@@ToolsThatBuild encasing completely. Forever sealed inside expoxy. I'll probably have to find a place to just do it for me. Expoxy isn't cheap an it's October 8th so yeah 😫. Not even sure where to look in the phone book either.
@@OutlawJesseJames there is only about four other guys on the planet that I know of that would do it properly. If your just looking to encase it in a 1/4” or thinner layer then that’s flood costing and most epoxy beginners can do it.
@@ToolsThatBuild basically all I'm trying to do.
@@OutlawJesseJames yeah super simple then basically the process from 3:34 onward. Get a dollar store vase that’s a similar material and do a practice run. Glue the lid on prior to pouring and set it on a piece of scrap wrapped in sheathing tape otherwise it’s the same as 3:34 on and very easy.
Looking at tips and tricks to do a paddlefish skull.
Pulled this up and a Pepsi commercial showed up....hmmm
If you have any questions let me know. I would recommend considering a degassing chamber/pot with a skull. Pepsi is just jealous.
Great video! I'm looking to cast an old bottle of wine, about 30 plus years and fragile (from Communist Bulgaria, so of uneven glass quality, etc...it's a miracle it's survived this long). I'm concerned that the casting process might react badly with the paper label, running, smudging, disintegrating, etc. Is there anything I need to worry about with respect to the paper label?
I can’t say for sure without seeing it, some paper does just fine some doesn’t. You can pre seal the label before casting. Keep in mind a wine bottle is substantially higher than a pop or beer bottle. You will need to keep it very cool for the curing to not boil at that depth of epoxy and you will want a degassing pot/chamber. A getting it bubble free at that depth would be extremely difficult.
Hi there, im working on the similar project and i hava to cut/ trim the epoxy block. Im wondering do you use any special blade on your drop saw? And also do you wet the epoxy block before cutting it ? I never did before and i just read that, dry cut can ruin the epoxy.( burning etc) thanks
I use a high tooth blade nothing different from wood projects. The heat generated is the problem you’re referring to. You have to cut slow and turn the block to keep from overheating it. In the end as long as you don’t burn it too bad you’ll be sanding it all off anyway and ideally flood coating it like in the video so it won’t matter. Long story short I don’t use water just cut slow and allow it to cool.
@@ToolsThatBuild Awesome. Thanks a lot. I will give it a go.
How can I tell what's different between "deep-pour" and "tabletop" epoxy when I'm looking, like what terms or descriptions do I look for? I thought resin was resin. lol
It will say one or the other on the package or listing. To double check look at the manufacturer maximum pour depth. Table top will be approx 1/4” max depth depending on the brand and a deep pour is supposed to be 1-2” max depth depending on the brand. The big thing for casting projects like this is the long cure time of the deep pour to release the air.
@@ToolsThatBuild Aha, thank you. The stuff I have is coating or table top, then. Fantastic, thanks again.
Very nice work. I am having a problem with dust setting on the top coat and it creates fish eyes. I even washed with isopropyl alcohol and still getting fish eyes. What type of top coat you use?
This sounds like more help needed then a comment thread email me or dm me on Instagram and I’ll help you sort this out
What epoxy did you use in this video? I’ve been having a hard time tying to find a good deep pour resin
What have you tried? I don’t recommend the one I used really the company is terrible
Awesome outcome. How did you finish the bottom after you did the flood coat? Any drips?
Not usually but in the case of drips I just flush cut them on the miter saw and then polish the bottom. Oil it and let it cure shines it right up since it isn’t clear epoxy.
Ok, but what is the purpose of this?
The bottle inside, last longer, or what?
And also, how does this hot epoxy affect a bottle of whisky ( the liquid, whisky itself) in this casting process?
After some time, can you open it and drink the whisky?
The purpose is in the description. It preserves it forever but the only way to layer drink it would be cut the epoxy open
Did you use anything to cover the labels? Have you ever had the epoxy damage a label?
I did not and no I’ve never had an issue. It’s the heat or bubbles that damage the labels. The bottles in the video do not have paper labels they are both printed on the glass.
Hi, you put a final resin coat on afterwards. Did you sand that and just didn’t show? What type of resin used last.
I did not sand it. The final flood coat is not sanded it will cure perfectly clear. All resin is self leveling so just pour it over and let it work as seen in the video. The bottle is propped up on a piece of wood covered in tape though to allow the epoxy to pool underneath and then just smack the wood off.
Hi, I never done a resin pour like this for fun. I have always used resin for surfboards. That flood coat was very thin. If I look for this what should I look for to buy? Clear coat resin? Thanks
@@desigamboa3016 yes it goes on quite thin any table top epoxy kit will work. Just don’t use deep pour kits. Find a 2-1 resin kit that pours 1/4-1/2 inch max depth. They are pretty much all clear and self leveling. It will depend where you are located as to which brand/store is best.
Love this..Do you have to use deep pour epoxy..or can you use table top epoxy?
Thanks, yes it has to be deep pour and it has to be kept cool. Table top will not cure at these depths.
Do you ever use a thermometer for your deep pours? I'm casting a lifesize skeleton arm and I'm thinking 55 Fahrenheit for the first 48 hrs using a cooler but I'm not sure. Is there any advice you could possibly throw me?
Hey I don’t use a thermometer, the amount of cooling will depend on the depth and thickness of the pour. Some people use a fridge or freezer but it’s basically trial and error.
@@ToolsThatBuild do you normally use a different resin for the topcoat? Or is using the same one ok.
@@gevde-1355 brand doesn’t matter but I use a shallow pour resin or not a deep pour resin for the top coat. The reasons are listed in the video
I would like to do something big with epoxy but have doubts on to how big of a art craft you can make and can you mold pieces together but repouring??
And if it will hold after doing so??
How big do you want to go? And what is the project?
How epoxy resin in ml did you used to cover the bottle of coke?
Does the cola run out of bubbles or can you break the epoxy risen and se how the cola doing
There is no oxygen inside so the cola doesn’t run out of bubbles. It will remain carbonated forever no need to break it to see how it’s doing.
Nice video. What epoxy resin did you use? Most resins I fine say only up to 2" pour. I am looking at doing a 4"x6" pour but I don't know what resin to use. Any help would be appreciated.
All deep pours say up to 2” the one I used says max 1.5” the issue comes with heat generated. A 4x6” pour is a similar pour but depending on your room temp you may need to take more drastic cooling steps. Any deep pour should work as long as it stays cool enough to not boil or flash cure. Some trial and error might be needed
@@ToolsThatBuild That would be a 2:1 resin correct? Just out of curiosity. What would a 5:1 resin be used for?
@@2015GMCSierraHD tbh I have never used a 5:1 or know anyone who does for this application. Yes this is a 2:1 epoxy.
Waht kind of epoxy did you used?
Both deep pour and table top. Deep pour for the main pour and table top for the flood coat
Would this be possible with cans as I never used resin before or do you have an other way to do that with cans? I have a ton I started to collect and I don't want them to be crushed. Also for a can that is empty, would it be best to fill with something cheaper inside it also help it not get crushed?
Same process for cans. Cans are a little easier because you don’t deal with paper labels. If the can is empty fill it to the top with epoxy and allow it to cure before you begin casting it. The epoxy won’t crush a full can.
I know this video is old but could you use table top epoxy if your just looking for a nice gloss over a pop can instead of a box or what would you recomend
It’s not old at all, I’m not sure what your asking you want to flood coat a can and just have a thin layer coating the can?
Thanks alot for the video. If the object is Porous, how would it be done?
Same way but seal the porous material first with table top epoxy and a foam brush. Paint a layer on and let it cure before you do the pour. Also if this is your first time and you have the ability to, use a degassing chamber to remove the air.
@@ToolsThatBuild Thank you so much for the detailed response. Really appreciate it 🙏
Are you putting them in the ice to prevent the heat from the cure discoloring the bottle labels?
Jon Wit no the epoxy at those depths will get so hot it will boil the liquid in the bottles to the point the caps will blow right off. The ice helps with the air but it’s also a necessity with the liquids.
Hey! This great! 2 questions:
1. What do you coat the mold with?
2. I thought epoxy resin was super flamable, is it not? So, that propane thing, how do I avoid any accident?
Thank you, The mold is coated with a harder and UV resistant “table top epoxy” instead of the deep pour epoxy used to cast. You can Google it but epoxy of this type gets hit but not hit enough to catch fire and skimming it with a torch is also not enough to ignite it. Once cured there is no concern of flammability it’s essentially plastic at that point
@@ToolsThatBuild Great! One more thing, excuse me... I've been told acrylic is no good 🤔 what you do to make it work?
@@AlejandroGarcia-tc1zp not sure who told you that. Use the thinnest acrylic sheets you can. Acrylic lets the heat out the best. Keep in mind casting is different from flat pours like rivers. Anyone can do a River table casting takes practice. Acrylic wouldn’t be used for flat pours like rivers. And it’s usually one good for one pour.
Yea about that can I hire you I dont have all these tools and space
Unfortunately I don’t do commissions anymore sorry.
@@ToolsThatBuild All good thanks for the reply
Hi. May i know what is your saw size of the miter saw, is it 10inch? Thanks
The one in the video is a 12” sliding miter saw.
Thanks mate, by the way how many days for the resin to fiully cure on the container box with ice, do you constantly change or refill the ice? Mine sometimes get shrink on the edges lines which results in big bubbles path on the edges. Any idea how to avoid this.
@@efworks.scalemodel hey depends on the deep pour epoxy, this brand was 3 days and yes I change the ice. The shrinking and large bubbles is from the epoxy getting too hot, essentially flash curing. You need to cool it more. For this pour I was pouring a 2” epoxy 9” so lots of cooling. You can try curing in a turned down fridge instead of the ice.
How to remove bubble from resin
A cured bubble?
Seriously I'm DONE with sanding / polishing, it takes so much time and somehow I don't get the crystal clear result I want, I can still see little scratches after sanding/polishing!!! I want to put another layer of epoxy on my casting but in this video you used "table top epoxy". Is it a special epoxy or can I also use my epoxy that I used for my casting? Any help highly appreciated 🙏
You will never get truly crystal clear sanding wet or dry to any grit, as soon as you sand it won’t be clear. I use table top because it is harder and doesn’t scratch as easy as deep pour. Yes you can do a flood coat of any epoxy over it like I did in the video, unfinished epoxy like the flood coat is the only way to truly get clear results that will last. The guys polishing epoxy with a buffer etc. will have clouding show up down the road. If you need any further help let me know
@@ToolsThatBuild Thanks for the reply! For now I'm happy with my result but only because I almost spent 3 hours on sanding and polishing. For my next project I will do a flood coat like you did, there's no way I will spend that much time on sanding again.
My only question is: when you let your object harden after the flood coat at 03:45 don't you need to sand and polish the bottom of your casted bottle again because it's stuck to the foil below?
1. Did you glue the Cola bottle to the bottom? I don't know if epoxy or the glass bottle is heavier. I only have 1 try when I glue it...
2. Why does your Coca Cola label doesn't get darker? Because mine does when I paint it with epoxy before pouring it. I also see some light spots on the Cola label where air seems to be trapped in. Hmmm
1. The bottle was placed in while the base epoxy was still sticky so no glue needed but I do use ca glue and accelerator sometimes if I miss the sticky window so it can be glued but I usually don’t.
2. None of the bottles in this video has a paper label. They are all painted or dyed or whatever on the bottle. A paper label will look wet permanently when it goes in epoxy which is what your seeing and the dye is separating from the paper. I don’t recommend pouring on paper for a first time, it’s a delicate process to pre seal it ahead of time and should be done with a table top epoxy so it cures quickly.
@@ToolsThatBuild wow thanks for the quick response! You helped me a lot!
@@ToolsThatBuildSince you have helped me a lot, I just wanted to let you (and maybe other people who read this comment) know that you can use a Coca Cola bottle with a paper label! You have to spray the paper label with waterproofing spray first (the same spray you use for leather shoes for example) and let it dry for maybe 30 minutes . It works really well, the paper label doesn't look wet it all!
@@speisequark2 great tip!
Thanks for sharing. What do you put in the plastic box to allow the resin not to stick to it? Vaseline?
navalorama nothing it does stick a little to it that’s why it snaps when being removed
Which brand of epoxy is this
I do not recommend the epoxy I used. I always recommend wisebond super clear or incredible solutions epoxy.
Thanks! Doesn’t the resin stick to the plywood base? Or do you cut it off?
I’m assuming your talking about the final flood coat, it’s sitting on a small scrap that I’ve wrapped in sheathing tape. It just pops right off and then the bottom is polished.
That looks awesome! I was wondering with what substance you can clean the acrylic sheets/take of the silocone kit/glue after demolding it?
I don’t clean them as you can see in the video near the end they break as they are being removed. The acrylic sheet is a one time use for this application unfortunately.
@@ToolsThatBuild Thanks for the quik response! Yes, I have seen that. My plan is to use a thick polycarbonat, so i can re-use the mold a couple of times. Thats why i was asking if you know more about the cleaning part.
@@marvinray6793 I would recommend against that. The thinner the better to allow it to cool. We tried 1/4” plywood and it didn’t let it cool enough and boiled it. We use the thinnest possible plastic that is rigid.
@@ToolsThatBuild Allright! Thank you, appreciate it
If I use pressure pot,
do you think the pressure might pop or crack the bottle?
It shouldn’t, depends on the cap. The glass will be fine but the cap might blow if it’s not a twist off. I’ve done cans in one and it’s fine. I would recommend doing the pressure pot on the epoxy in the mixing container pouring it, and then pressure potting it again in the form with the bottle. Your second go will need less time in the pot.
Can I use plexiglass to make a form?
Yes same thing. Plexiglass is a brand name of acrylic. Like Kleenex to tissue. Just keep in mind thicker materials will keep in more heat.
@@ToolsThatBuild thank you, crazy thought, I found a lizard skeleton in a tool box and Im wanting to put it in epoxy
@@davidcastillo379 should be a fairly easy pour. A guy emailed me about doing a fish skeleton table. His turned out good. It had a lot of micro bubbles but beyond that no issues. Depending on the size of the lizard, the depth of pour may be small enough where heat isn’t an issue
What sort of sander are you using to polish/sand the Epoxy with? Is there a certain type of Sandpaper or soft pads you would recommend?
I’m using an orbital sander and up to 120 grit it doesn’t matter any sand paper is fine after that for the really high grit soft pads I recommend Mirca Abalon pads.
Whats with the label block? lol
The company whose epoxy I used is not one I recommend anymore.
There’s an air bubble under the bottle cap
Yes it didn’t release, a degassing chamber would guarantee it bubble free if that’s an issue for you. Not everyone has the means or need for one though.
Nice technique. 2 questions. How did you clean up the bottom after the final coat? and 2, Did you put the bottle in the mold the same time as the first pour, or did you let the first pour cure before putting the bottle in?
Thank you, the bottom you just sand to 4K grit and oil like a normal epoxy, it’s colored so clarity is no issue. I let the initial colored table top pour in the base fully cure then I set the bottle on top of it and do the main pour. They are different epoxies so mixing before fully cured would be a disaster.
@@ToolsThatBuild OK thanks for the info. So the first layer is counter top and the second is deep pour?
@@bradleyheathhaysable correct
Does the flood coat stick to the bottom? Can you go into a little more detail about that please?
Just before the flood coat is poured I prop it up with a small piece of scrap wood wrapped in sheathing tape on the bottom, so it sits about 1/4” off the ground. The flood coat will flow down the sides and pool on the ground but not the bottom of the piece. Then I just pry the scrap piece off the bottom and done.
@@ToolsThatBuild so there's no trimming any excess off?
@@Ro1045 it should just run off the sides but if you have any drips that remain or if you need to square up the bottom you can just recut the bottom on the miter saw and re sand the bottom same as done in the video. The bottom is poured with table top epoxy before the bottle goes in so it’s the same sheen and hardness as the flood coat.
Ser i ned polish ipoxy how i coting jolri
Mercifully, the surfaces are flat and smooth, but how long did it take from 150 grit to 4,000 grit to polish before the coating pour?
Jeannie Llewellyn not long at all, I use 150,220,320,400,1000,2000,4000 as you can see after the rinse there is still imperfections, the will be filled by the thicker table top epoxy during the flood coat, another advantage over polishing.
@@ToolsThatBuild Great. I hate polishing! For the table top epoxy, I couldn't see if what the final part sat on - was it on a pedestal or something to elevate it from the flood? How long did the final coat take to cure?
Jeannie Llewellyn yes just a little piece of scrap wood wrapped in sheathing tape to elevate it. That table top cures quick I leave it over night and the next day it’s done.
@@ToolsThatBuild Thank you!
this might be a dumb question to ask but..I was wondering would there be problems casting a empty pop can in resin?
this is my first time casting objects and want things to go well
No problem, fill it with epoxy first and allow it to cure. Then do the casting pour after. A can is smaller so if it’s a fairly tight mold heat control won’t be as drastic. I would recommend if your brand new to casting to practice on something a little smaller first just so you don’t waste your can or blow money on epoxy if their is a mistake.
@@ToolsThatBuild thank you very much! will keep that in mind
How long did you leave it in the ice bin for? :o and did it take 3 days to fully cure?
I left it in the ice until it was cured which was 3 days yes
That takes a lot of resin. How much can you sell these for?
It’s not as much as you’d think. I have only done them by commission so each one was a different price depending on what I was casting. I’ve seen other makers selling similar for 300-350 Usd but no idea if they were actually selling them.
I’ve tried to do this twice now with a small wkd blue bottle and failed twice. I’ve tried slow cure and with ice. Any advice would be great.
Hey I would need more information about what exactly is going wrong. Your results and process would be helpful. Best to message me on Instagram or directly through email.
@@ToolsThatBuild I’ve sent more detail via Instagram 👍
How was your sanding process over 400? I’ve been given advice that any grits above 400 should be hand / wet sanded. Also, you mentioned using soft pads all the way up to 4000. Are they similar to the Mira Abralon pads? I’ve only found those up tp 600 grit.
Not sure who told you that but I don’t find any better results are achieved with wet sanding epoxy besides gumming everything up, just don’t heat the epoxy too much sanding one spot. Yes I use Mirka Abralon pads they go up to 4k grit and you can usually get a mix box from 500-4K on Amazon. Or direct from Mirka. You can see in the video when I switch from regular sand paper to abralon.
When sanding metals with grits above 400, like making a knife, you want to use water with a little bit of soap or straight Windex. It keeps the metal from building-up (clogging) the paper and supposedly makes the paper last much longer.
@@ChuckNorrisUltra absolutely on metal. Epoxy is a little different even at higher grits it turns into a paste that sticks to everything. I’ve found no advantage to wet sanding epoxy the end result is the same as dry but dry ends up using less sand paper.
How can you cast somthing in epoxy resin and make it look like it's floating in the cast, like..all the sides of the object have the same amount of resin to all the sides of it and if u look at it it seem like it's floaating in the resin
Pour the base layer with the same deep pour clear epoxy instead of colored. Then do the rest the same as the video. You may end up with a slight ghost line where the two clear epoxy pours meet but the flood coat at the end will do a decent job of covering it up.
@@ToolsThatBuild thank you very much for answering it really helped
what happens if you put it in a microwave now?
Grant Z Price tbh I have no idea, probably melt the epoxy? It’s essentially a plastic
Okay ecopoxy for the deep cast is that the flow cast one ?
The brand doesn’t matter, deep cast for the pour and low depth for the final coat. I don’t use Ecopoxy and I don’t usually recommend them.
But you used ecopoxy for both the colored base and the deep pour...the max height for flow cast is 1.5". How did you pour 9"??
@@gevde-1355 right but since this video I have found brands that are easier to work with and have clearer results. That’s why I say brand doesn’t matter for the question your asking. I also don’t recommend Ecopoxy because they are a terrible company in general.
@@ToolsThatBuild ok I see. So what you're saying is any brand of resin can be poured much higher than their max limit?
@@gevde-1355 correct, it’s not the brand that makes it possible, it’s the cooling. The very deep epoxy generates too much heat while curing, that’s why it’s not recommended by the brands. It can cause air issues as well if it gets too hot (which is why some people insist on degassing chambers for casting). Lots of deep casting is done with other brands and no issues. Some people put the molds in a fridge or a turned down freezer. Ive even seen it cured outside in the snow (depending on where you live and humidity) I use Ecopoxy in this video but Ive done casting since with other brands. It may take some experimenting depending on where you live to get the cooling correct but don’t get hung up on the brand.
Where can you get the 400 to 4000 soft buffing pads? Are they made by Festool?
Mirka Abralon pads. They come sold in each grit or you can usually get a mix pack on Amazon that has a pad or two of each grit. They last a very long time.
Awesome. Thank you
How do you clean up after flood coat?
There is no clean up, the bottle is sitting on a scrap covered in sheathing tape which is just popped off and the flood coat runs onto the garbage bag covering the table which is just thrown out after. Once the flood coat dries just remove it from the block square up the bottom and your done.
Can I buy that coke bottle
I only have the one left, I’m planning to keep it. I mean anything is for sale for the right price but short answer is no
does putting in ice also prevent air bubbles from forming in the epoxy? or is it just so the soda doesnt explode from the heat? also what glue are you using to hold the acrylic together? Great Video!
The ice slows the curing process by keeping the heat down, basically the longer the epoxy takes to cure the more time it has to release the air. The glue is Starbond thick and a can of accelerator. (Use the code TOOLS15 if your getting some for 15% off) I like it cause It cures instant and the forms built in a few minutes. Thank you!
how long could it last?
Theoretically forever, it would probably yellow eventually but once cured it’s a transparent plastic so it doesn’t break down over time. The epoxy removes all oxygen as well so the coke bottle will never change either.
Do you sell these? Or know someone who does? I need one ,but with a bud light.
Hey sorry I no longer make them
Why are you hiding the epoxy youre using?
I cover the brand because I don’t endorse the specific brand/company. The process is the same for any epoxy brand. And the type I used I don’t recommend, there is better and clearer epoxy available and the one I used is pretty bad.
Different! I liked it. BUt I can see someone on a late night bender with some ouzo and no coke, breaking my ornament.. oO -- it's me... I admit it.
Totally but you better bring a saw, we have dropped them 2 stories and either than scratches from the cement everything was intact and unharmed.
@@ToolsThatBuild :) you underestimate the power of a fiend with intent !!
:) Cheers brother...
Me: (sees video title) I bet I could do that! (watches video) Oh, you need tools. And a coke bottle. And epoxy. And time. Stupid click bait!
Ah sorry some assembly required
What brand of epoxy do you use?
I don’t promote any brand, there is a number of epoxies out there that work well for this. Really any clear deep pour slow curing epoxy.
What deep pour epoxy is that
Not one I recommend using