Successfully suspending things in resin invisibly
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2021
- I’ve been trying to perfect suspending things in resin invisibly and I think I’ve pretty much nailed it. The secret is to only use the exact same resin that you’re casting in to glue and suspend the object, no superglue or similar. The video is a quick review of the process and then a time lapse of me turning a sphere. Enjoy!
Below are some reference videos for the methods that I use.
Turning a sphere using a template and jig: • Rough Turning a Sphere...
Original experiments suspending things invisibly: • Suspending objects in ...
I used Alumilite Clear Cast Plus which has a 24 to 48 hour demold time.
My Etsy site is www.etsy.com/shop/sourlandwoo... if you’re interested in what I make.
Feel free to ask questions...or provide improvements! - Навчання та стиль
Cool process. Have you considered adding an LED to light up the small model inside the sphere? You could make the straw resin cylinder go all the way through the bottom of the wood, then turn the sphere, and finally create a base to hold the sphere inside the base could be an LED that shines up through the resin straw tube and shines light on the bottom of the small model embedded inside the sphere. It might look cool to make an entire collection for a display case.
Yes! I bought some tiny, battery operated, lights that I can just drill a hole in the base and then insert. They do tend to highlight any floaters, etc. but easy enough to do and cool looking. Glad you liked the process.
Very informative video! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this information it is very helpful!
I've a project I'm working on which involves suspension so thanks for the staw tip. Also I see many of the comments regarding visible lines. I have attempted many times to do multiple pours without lines and so far i haven't been successful. I've tried reducing the time I leave between pours and what I've found is that the weight of the next pour will press down on the previous pour and distort it anyway. I now just wait until its pretty hard and keep the lines. Hopefully one day I can master it
That's exactly why I worked on this alternative method. I was never able to make that line disappear, no matter what I tried. When I do this, I can do one deep pour, and it seems to work pretty consistently. If you are pouring over flowers (extrapolating from your username) then the deep pour may give you heat issues though...if this was easy, everyone would do it!
Genius!
Nice idea with the straw. I have been trying to cast eggs while suspending pine cones in the center and trying to keep them from floating, but like you say the double pours don’t work. I will try the straw method to suspend the cone. Thanks
You’re welcome and good luck. Hope it works for you. I’ve found that using the same resin to attach the straw column to the base and the object is optimal too but that means pouring the straw, attaching the straw to the object, then attaching the straw to the base (if you have one) as three separate stages each with a 24 cure time. If you’re in a hurry this might not be best otherwise it does seem to be the best solution that I’ve found.
Hello! You are really great at casting! I was wondering, if you are using resin to glue the resin "holders" how do you keep them from falling over in the mold because it doesn't harden right away? How does it stay up? I can imagine using UV resin for this but not sure how that works with say epoxy. Thank you!
How do you keep the resin in the straw? Just tape both ends and lay in the pot?
This is a great idea! Thank you for sharing it resin is my née hobby! Is the straw support strong enough for heavier objects? Like a steel ball or such?
Probably not but you could make a bigger one with one of those bubble tea straws, I’d think.
I'm toying with the idea of using a 5mm glass stirring stick to stand objects on before casting. Any thoughts ???
WoW, nice work!!! How do you get rid of bubbles? Yours are super clear ❤
I use a pressure pot leaving them in for 24 hours to make sure that they’re fully set. It works very well and means I can use an attachment on a drill to mix the resin which typically would introduce way too many bubbles. If you’re in the US then you can pick up a paint pressure pot from Harbor Freight and make one fairly inexpensively - you’ll find UA-cam videos on how to do that.
Very interesting. I’m wondering if you are pouring the scale/thickness of the straw based on the size and weight of object?
I plan on pouring in quality mold to suspend small to medium flowers. and have read that layering the resin is better than pouring all at once?
So much to learn and so many product’s!
Thank you😎
I’ve been asked to suspend some flowers today which is new to me so I might know better in a week!
I’ve never had success with layering because I can see the lines between each layer but I know some people prefer that method and have it perfected. I’m expecting the issue with a 4” pour to be the heat so the flowers will have to be well dried. If you can use the stalks then you can use those to hold/hang the flowers in place but if you want the flower head floating in the resin then this might be worth trying.
Come back and let us all know how you did.
Great work Andrew and followers! I wonder if there is sufficient experience here to get help on a related priblem of creating invisibility? As a newbie finding it hard to blend, or make invisible, the layer joins of suçessive pours. I understand not to do big pours in one piece because of the temp problem. Tried sanding but can still see the join, as with experimenting on differwnt times between pours. Any suggestion please?
I have never made it work but I spoke with Alumilite once and they told me to pour the second layer before the first had completely cured. I cannot recall the specific timing but it might be on their website or just ask them their advice, they’re really good. Even if you’re using a different resin, this might work. Sorry that I can’t be any more help.
Where do you buy these models ?
Hi! nice video. I have one thought: you say that the resin ''stick'' can be seen a little bit in real life. have you tried to sand it down (400 grit or something like that) before pouring the resin on the object? that should give a better bond and ideally a seamless joint.
I did try roughing it up a little and also polishing it too but tbh it didn’t really seem to help. I do feel that you have to look very closely and know to look before you see it.
That said, if you work out an improvement then please share!!
@@sourlandwoodturning understood! Thanks!
Well, my friend, you nailed it! Persistence prevails once again. 😎 I'll follow your lead once I get my jig, it looks lot a lot of fun. I'm going out on limb here Andrew, but are you Australian? Not that that it matters. But just to clarify, their actually called "Alligator" clips. 😁
Be well Brother!
Chuck
I’m originally from the north east of England but I’ve lived in New Jersey for a long time…it kinda messes with accents!
@@sourlandwoodturning Haha, that is quite a mix Andrew, but it's all good! Take care and play safe if, but only if you have too! 😎
where do you buy the size figures from. how do you prevent them from warping and melting from the heat from the resin?
Mainly from ebay but I have picked them up in random stores as I'm always looking for
If cured resin and uncured resin weigh the same, is it possible to pour all the resin in the mould, place the cured resin figure in and push it down to the middle?
Rotation or exact placement doesn't matter, it just need to not touch the sides and is mostly in the middle.
Feel free to try it but here are my thoughts on it. The figures that I use are not made of the same resin but even if they did and had the same density, I do not think that this would work. Resin gets hot when it cures and you get thermal currents in the liquid (you can see them sometimes) which would tend to move the figure around. You could wait for the resin to get more viscous (thick) but I like to put everything into the pressure pot and leave it for 24 hours undisturbed so I wouldn’t do that personally.
If you work out how to make it work…let us know. Good luck!
@@sourlandwoodturning ah okay. I trust your knowledge. It was just a thought
What would happen if say you pour the resin half up the object with say a random piece of material holding it in place and let it sit until it would be thick enough to hold it in place without said material and then finished the resin? Would the new resin loosen the thicker one and make the object float to the top? Would they clash and create a visible line through the middle? Or perhaps would they set together and you wouldn't notice a difference? I've seen people do this for other projects but not for having a suspended animation and I'd like to know the results. Thank you for your time.
I just watched a video by Ben's Worx, he did this a month ago and it looks to me like it works but I am not completely sure if in person it is noticeable.
I’ve tried this but for the spheres the line between the two pours can be seen as you rotate the sphere, I think it magnifies the line. I spoke to Alumilite and they claim it should work if you time the second pour correctly but I’m not convinced. If you can get it to work, please let us all know!
I have experimented with this a bit and I've found that the lines are mostly noticeable when you let the first layer cure completely before pouring the second layer. If you let the first layer only cure for a few hours to where the surface is still tacky then the second layer will blend into it seamlessly.
I've tried it with different items, you can most of the time see the transition from the first pour to the 2nd pour if you don't prep it really well. Still shows like it may be 2 different pieces. There's fishing type line you can use, it's called bob line, that disappears.
Where do you get the ship models from?
eBay or Amazon normally but it is tricky because for a 4” sphere you want models that are no more than 1” long as they get magnified. So…you’re looking for highly detailed models that are in excellent condition which are not always cheap. I look out in toy stores for micro machines, etc but without much luck.
I don't have a pressure pot
I guess you could either try it without one and just try to minimize the bubbles from stirring, or buy one! Be aware that you need a pressure pot and a compressor of some kind (although they're pretty small and if you have access to Harbor Freight then they're inexpensive. I made my pressure pot from a Harbor Freight paint pressure pot using instructions from UA-cam.
@@sourlandwoodturning thank you. I had myself convinced it would cost a lot of money. I will check it out. Have a blessed day.