Wow, that might safe me so much trouble :O I was about to by me a flex plate out of desperation, but that might safe me money and headaches Thx man! You are a lifesaver :D
IT WORKS!! I never printed without supports but for a recent print i wanted to try print a perfect flat surface, I tryed hot water and the spatula but nothing, so almost in tears i've found this video, put the plate into the freezer and after 20 mins the spatula worked without any pressure. P.S. if it doesn't work the first time give it another try, after 15 mins it didn't came of, then i forgot it for 40 mins and it slipped off.
I used hot water on my first print (was with water-washable resin) as I couldn't get it off (probably my inexperience). It helped enough to get it off, but not nearly as much as your freezer trick shows here. I guess the goal is to make the metal plate shrink or expand much more than the resin part. Maybe a manufacturer should use that idea by putting a resistive heating element in the build plate so that turning that on once the print is finished could release the part (similar to how a glass plate on an FFF printer releases the part when cooling down). Reading about flex-plates bending or getting loose when big parts are printed, makes me wonder whether such a heating/cooling solution would not be a better solution.
Nice. Do you have any tips on gauging cure time in Wash and cure machine? I used ABS like V2 water washable as I have a bad sensitivity to normal resins and sometimes the resin gets very brittle?
I've never used a water washable resin. Ive heard of people mixing flexible resins with harder resins to change part properties. I think the flexible resins are more expensive. Not sure if there are water washable flexible resins. Perhaps others with experience will see this and comment.
My first print of the phone was a 2-piece design that snapped together. It used a lot less resin and was very light. It gave us the proper location of the buttons, camera lens and the power port but, being light was the problem. We were using it in a VR headset and needed it to be closer to the weight of the actual phone. The solid model turned out to be close to the weight of the phone.
*** WARNING *** I tried this with some 3mm thick enclosures, and this DOES NOT WORK. It broke them into a zillion pieces getting them off. It may work with really thick slabs, bot, bot normal prints unfortunately.
It has worked for me with parts that are 1.5 mm thick.. It may depend on the resin. I usually use "ABS like" resins. If the parts are diffucult to peal from the plate after freezing, I will put it back in the freezer longer. How long did you have them in?
I'm more curious how you managed to print something with such a large cross section!? I'm working with a Creality LD-006 and it would of destroyed it's self trying to peel the layer off of the PEF.
I didn't do anything special. I've never changed my FEP it's still how it was from the factory. There are many people who "tune" the FEP when they install in new one. The theory is that with the right "tune" the FEP stays at the right level of flex to have prints peel away properly. There are others who never tune it and don't have any problems. Here is a video on installing and tuning your FEP: ua-cam.com/video/Yr_wtZqBfbQ/v-deo.html Changing the FEP may be different on your printer, but from what I've seen, they are all pretty similar. I've also heard of people applying things to the FEP to help it release. Teflon lubricant, Pledge wood polish and other things. You might try one of those. It could also be your exposure time or power is to high. The time can be adjusted in your slicing software and the UV power on my Photon Mono X is adjusted from the control panel. Not sure how you would change it on your printer.
You need to check your resin bottle for resin configurations (number of bottom layers, bottom layer curing time, normal layer curing time) and set that in chitobox while preparing your print file. Hope all will be good for you.
Sorry to hear that. Sometimes I have to put it back in the freezer for a longer time and it will work. I've had some I forgot about and they were in the freezer over night. When I pulled it out, the parts fell off the plate.
Nice! I put the whole thing in two plastic bags just in case because I use a regular home refrigerator.
Wow, that might safe me so much trouble :O I was about to by me a flex plate out of desperation, but that might safe me money and headaches
Thx man! You are a lifesaver :D
IT WORKS!!
I never printed without supports but for a recent print i wanted to try print a perfect flat surface, I tryed hot water and the spatula but nothing, so almost in tears i've found this video, put the plate into the freezer and after 20 mins the spatula worked without any pressure.
P.S.
if it doesn't work the first time give it another try, after 15 mins it didn't came of, then i forgot it for 40 mins and it slipped off.
thank you so much😭 i printed it too many times. but this technique worked so goooddd
for everyone i used this on siraya tech mold resin. put in for about 15 min and with a bit force it fell right off.
I used hot water on my first print (was with water-washable resin) as I couldn't get it off (probably my inexperience). It helped enough to get it off, but not nearly as much as your freezer trick shows here. I guess the goal is to make the metal plate shrink or expand much more than the resin part. Maybe a manufacturer should use that idea by putting a resistive heating element in the build plate so that turning that on once the print is finished could release the part (similar to how a glass plate on an FFF printer releases the part when cooling down). Reading about flex-plates bending or getting loose when big parts are printed, makes me wonder whether such a heating/cooling solution would not be a better solution.
This works!
Nice. Do you have any tips on gauging cure time in Wash and cure machine? I used ABS like V2 water washable as I have a bad sensitivity to normal resins and sometimes the resin gets very brittle?
I've never used a water washable resin. Ive heard of people mixing flexible resins with harder resins to change part properties. I think the flexible resins are more expensive. Not sure if there are water washable flexible resins. Perhaps others with experience will see this and comment.
First just buy a wham bam flex plate, second, next time make your model hallow and make 2 holes and you save a lot of resin.
My first print of the phone was a 2-piece design that snapped together. It used a lot less resin and was very light. It gave us the proper location of the buttons, camera lens and the power port but, being light was the problem. We were using it in a VR headset and needed it to be closer to the weight of the actual phone. The solid model turned out to be close to the weight of the phone.
Nice work.
*Chef's Kiss*
Cool tip!!! (pun intended) 🤣
*** WARNING *** I tried this with some 3mm thick enclosures, and this DOES NOT WORK. It broke them into a zillion pieces getting them off. It may work with really thick slabs, bot, bot normal prints unfortunately.
It has worked for me with parts that are 1.5 mm thick.. It may depend on the resin. I usually use "ABS like" resins. If the parts are diffucult to peal from the plate after freezing, I will put it back in the freezer longer. How long did you have them in?
I'm more curious how you managed to print something with such a large cross section!? I'm working with a Creality LD-006 and it would of destroyed it's self trying to peel the layer off of the PEF.
I didn't do anything special. I've never changed my FEP it's still how it was from the factory. There are many people who "tune" the FEP when they install in new one. The theory is that with the right "tune" the FEP stays at the right level of flex to have prints peel away properly. There are others who never tune it and don't have any problems. Here is a video on installing and tuning your FEP:
ua-cam.com/video/Yr_wtZqBfbQ/v-deo.html
Changing the FEP may be different on your printer, but from what I've seen, they are all pretty similar.
I've also heard of people applying things to the FEP to help it release. Teflon lubricant, Pledge wood polish and other things. You might try one of those.
It could also be your exposure time or power is to high. The time can be adjusted in your slicing software and the UV power on my Photon Mono X is adjusted from the control panel. Not sure how you would change it on your printer.
You need to check your resin bottle for resin configurations (number of bottom layers, bottom layer curing time, normal layer curing time) and set that in chitobox while preparing your print file. Hope all will be good for you.
Wow!
Wouldn't this depend on the resin?
You have a good point. I have not used flexible resins and I would guess they may not release with this trick.
Nope didnt work at all
Sorry to hear that. Sometimes I have to put it back in the freezer for a longer time and it will work. I've had some I forgot about and they were in the freezer over night. When I pulled it out, the parts fell off the plate.