Resin Prints - Sticking to Build Plate
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- Prints were sticking too well on my new printer and would break before coming free from the build surface. Here is what I tried to remedy the issue.
Note - the anodized coating used is just to give the look of anodized metal while giving resistance to oils and heat, not actually anodizing the metal (anodizing is an electrochemical process). The paint will probably still scratch off if I try it again, it may or may not work better with a metalcast base coat applied first, or a different kind of paint/coating.
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I recently got a new mono x and the build plate wasn't flat, so I sanded it. Then I got the bright idea of sandblasting the surface to give it some "tooth". That worked way too well and the parts wouldn't come off at all without breaking them. I found that slowly pouring boiling water on the base, where the model sticks to the base, will cause the part to fall right off. Have something soft-ish under it so it doesn't break. That's my go-to method now. Guaranteed not to fall off during printing, and effortless removal.
you can use a propane torch on the back of the build plate for 20-25 seconds to heat the build plate until it starts becoming uncomfortable to touch after holding your hand on it for about 5 seconds. That will soften the resin and make it less likely to shatter when you push a thin, sharp putty knife under it. Your razor blade can only push so far under the print. a sharp putty knife can go all the way. You could also use a magnetic build plate. Magnetic build plates (at least the no-name brand I bought) are pretty smooth. Parts come off them easier than the grippy standard build plate. Magnetic build plates also have the advantage that you don't need to constantly re-level the build plate because you just detach the flexible magnetic part. You could also buy a second build plate for your printer, that way you can sand one smooth and have another, more grippy plate, for prints with smaller footprints that don't stick to the smooth build plate.
I saw in another video where someone adviced to freeze the build plate after the print. I just pour very cold water over my build plate after it's cleaned. The prints fall of quite easily
do you just pour only cold water on it? does it literally fall right off? i am looking to cure resin onto highly polished brass and use it as a mask for spray painting the metal. hoping the resin mask would literally fall right off as that would be amazing!
In my case it doesn't really just fall off. But it comes off a lot easier. Even large ones just come off by pulling lightly. In your case I'm not sure. If it's a mask, I'm guessing it's a thin layer and possibly should come off easily...
Getting fancy with your rubber "razer" blades! Well done sir!
I am having the same issue, even with a flexible build plate. As soon as I lower the base exposure the parts just stop sticking and the ones that do are still on there stuck hard to the plate. Did you find the issue to this?
How much do you lower the exposure?
@@kasperia5259 12s, they don't stick below that. I have to main theories. One being I sanded with 120grit and the scratches were too much. And second that my base layer is tough resin so it bends before it pops off. Third my number of base layers was 9. Now it is four. It is better but still does not "pop off"
Surface texture and base exposure makes a difference. The smoother the surface, the less prints will stick to it. Similarly the lower the base exposure time, the less the prints will stick. If all of your prints stick, regardless of settings and resins used, then I would make your surface smoother and make sure to re-level the bed. Exposure times will depend on the resin and printer. It is helpful to print exposure test models that have holes all the way through so you can see how much those get filled in on the base layers (more filled in, lower the exposure), but you'll have to find a good balance for each resin. I also tried the magnetic flexible build plates and it's the same. I ultimately didn't like them and switched back to the standard build plate. The one good thing about the flexible magnetic build plate is you can make one side really smooth and the other side a little rougher, so if you do run into something that is more difficult to get off even with lowered base exposure, you can just flip it over to the smoother side.
@@geek-happens I fixed it by flipping too the smooth side. Prints pop off now and I had the same idea.
I'm still relatively new to resin 3d printing but I have some concerns with this method. If I sand it down smooth, I worry that I would have issues printing taller prints since the adhesion isn't what it once was. I feel like this issue might be mitigated by playing with burn-in layer settings (which is its own issue entirely).
The ultimate answer I think would be to buy a spare build plate and sand down one when you have a spare plate. That way you don't potentially lose the ability to produce tall & heavy prints.
Do what works best for you and your resins/prints. I haven't had issues with large prints with a smoother plate. You can always sand it again rougher if needed. Typically it will work fine the way it comes from the manufacturer, but they will usually also include some sandpaper to rough it up again later if needed. I did put a magnetic plate on it later just to try it and I left one side smooth and roughed up the other side, so if I needed more grip, I could just flip the plate over, but I didn't really like the magnetic plate for several other reasons and ended up going back to my original sanded plate.
@@geek-happens I never thought of roughing it up again with some sandpaper, that's much better than buying another build plate. I'm glad you included your experience with magnetic plates. I would have thought they'd be a new standard for everyone to use, but it seems everyone I ask that has actually used them switched back to their old plate or just have regrets.
It kills me when I print a gorgeous model and ruin it when scraping it off the plate because it's stuck on there like a tick to a dog's ear. I've tried hot water, I've tried different scrapers, but I think now I'll try sanding the plate smoother. That or just putting everything on supports and chopping it off the plate with a saw.
I doubt if that process keeps the plate planar. And a non-planar printbed is trash.
why don't you buy a flexplate?
I'll have to try one some day. I have only had problems with this plate and haven't had any issues since smoothing it. Is there one you would recommend?
I 2nd a flexplate. Best upgrade I’ve made so far.
It would have been funny if with the paint, you could not peel the prints off at all.
If I may ask, what sandpaper did you use to polish it?
I used Zona 37-948 3M Polishing Paper, the same thing I use to sand and polish my dice :) It goes from 30 micron to 1 micron
most of the people i meet headach on not stick on bed. and yours too stick... i guess you just over expose too much..how many second you use for the base cure
I tried lowering exposure to as low as 1/3 of the recommended base layer cure times before sanding or painting the build plate. It made no difference other than about half the prints didn't stick at all, but the ones that did were still very difficult to remove. It's still working great after making the plate smoother without having to change recommended exposure settings.
I changed the main board out and started getting the issue of concert stuck prints to the plate.. i have been lowering the exposure times and trying over so far i think the new boards are way more powerful