Відео

@@gggambling i here of them going bad mildly often. Not sure what it is that goes bad. Spring maybe? Find the honda part number from like partzilla and then search the web for that part. Honda used many parts on a few different bikes. I don't know if these tensioners were shared, but it's worth a try. I wouldn't be afraid of Trying used.

The front one (14530-MZ5-003) is still available new at most parts stores. I could not find any rear ones available. Found a used one on ebay by searching for 14520-MZ5-003. It included both front and rear tensioners, chains and the guides. Saw several manual version too.

@@krullmi I have seen the manual versions myself as well. Which is why I am having debate over using manual over automatic. I personally have never used a manual tensioner other than on a car. There is not many videos on repair. So I appreciate these responses!

@@jeffjeffington5739 they are designed to retract with the tool. As the chain wears the tensioner extends to keep the chain from slapping around or jumping a tooth. You shouldn't be able to push it back by hand.

@@krullmi thank you for reply i think mine is working correctly then! Have a varadero XLV1000 with backfire from rear cylinder exhaust. thought it was something to do with cam chain tension but guess not. Exhaust valves are out of spec so i guess this could be it..:/ all fun and games i guess! 🤥

@@perseusaut it was worth it to me but i enjoy doing things like this. The vfr750 motors from 1991 thru 1998 use the same motor castings as the magna, so the motor bolts into the same mounting points. You need to pull the heads and swap the cams from the vfr heads into the magna heads. The 1100 requires a major frame mod

for everyone i used this on siraya tech mold resin. put in for about 15 min and with a bit force it fell right off.

What oring?

@sypher0101 lot of bikes got an o ring on the oil gallery

I had installed the head gaskets up-side-down. It left one of the oil pass thru ports unsealed. Had to pull the motor again and install new head gaskets correctly. Here's a link to the video that shows what I did wrong: ua-cam.com/video/QXmZ88N8rFA/v-deo.html

It appears an RC24 are 1986-1989 models. I don't have that wire diagram but I found it here: www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/270-1986_vfr700f_vfr750f-wiringdiagrampng/ You will have to make an account to download it, but it's free to set one up. Cheers!

Thank you very much!

And i want to ask you if I have a Honda vfr 750 rc 24 with a engine with 2 pulse generator and 1 cam pulse generator can adapt to him a cdi from another type of engine that not use cam pulse generator ?

@@marianstratulat9202 I don't know how to do that.

It has worked for me with parts that are 1.5 mm thick.. It may depend on the resin. I usually use "ABS like" resins. If the parts are diffucult to peal from the plate after freezing, I will put it back in the freezer longer. How long did you have them in?

I've never used a water washable resin. Ive heard of people mixing flexible resins with harder resins to change part properties. I think the flexible resins are more expensive. Not sure if there are water washable flexible resins. Perhaps others with experience will see this and comment.

The Vfr motor pulls a lot harder everywhere, except 2nd gear. My feeling is that both bikes pull the hardest in 2nd gear and there is not much difference there. The VFR motor might feel a little stronger, but i think that's just because the red line is 1500 rpm's higher so it feels harder before shifting. The VFR motor continues to pull hard in all the gears after that. The Magna motor doesn't pull as hard in the rest of the gears. There is another reason that the VFR motor pulls harder through all the gears. The magna transmission is a 5 speed and the VFR has a 6 speed. However, first gear on both bikes is the same ratio and 5th gear on the magna and 6th gear on the VFR are also the same. That means there is less of a ratio change in the gears in between. That would give the VFR a bigger torque advantage as you bump up each gear. The peak torque on both motors is similar, but peak torque on the VFR motor is in higher rpms. It appears the VFR transmission takes advantage of that. I've documented the entire engine swap on thread in the v4musclebike forum. That question came up a few times. Here's what I posted after a few rides of both bikes back in 2018. In that post I questioned if the 5th gear on the magna and the 6th gear on the VFR motor were the same. Since making that post I have found it is true. 5th on the magna and 6th in the VFR transmission do have the same ratio. v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?p=379633#post379633 As far has hard numbers of torque and HP go, I posted it here : v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?p=338507#post338507 If you're interested in following the entire swap this link starts when the VFR motor arrived at my house and I built a stand to test that motor before installing it: v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28440 3 pages into the thread the real swap starts happening: v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?p=379633#post379633 The thread is a little difficult to follow because my actual progress and posting was way ahead of getting videos edited and uploaded so posts jump way ahead and then jump back when I got a video completed. Enjoy!

Thanks! I enjoyed doing the motor swap. I didn't think it was too difficult, but I also like doing that kind stuff. If you're interested, I did document the process on the v4musclebike forum: v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?p=359940#post359940 That thread also links to all the videos I made. Here's a playlist of those videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLM2F-RVIca5XZVKXGSnXcRGZAHwQDOfKr.html

Thank you. I'll check it out. The sound of that bike is amazing. I'm wondering if the whining tone to the engine is the timing great drives for the camshafts. Either way would love to see 0-60 times. Great build

Yes. the funny thing is, when you remove them, you find real fins underneath.

@@krullmi nice to know they are removable. i want to paint the engine black but i want to polish the lines....i think would be way easier to do if they are not attached to the engine.....thanks 😀

Without seeing the part it is difficult to answer. If the holes are close to the edge of the part, or another way of saying this, if there isn't much meat around the screw holes they may crack. The thickness of the material will also matter. I just can't say without seeing it.

I ended up not using the pump at all. It's a really low flow, low pressure pump. I'm pretty sure it was used on the vfr because the lowest point in the tank was lower than the carbs so they needed a pump to lift the fuel back up to the carbs. Everyone that I know who did the swap has never used a pump.

Thank you. I put a lot of time into many of these videos. The VFR engine swap isn't really that hard but when i made these a few years back there wasn't much help online. My hope was that it would encourage others to try. If you have any questions don't hesitate to post them here or in the V4musclebike forum.

@@krullmi Just wanted to come back and say I did a write up for this build and linked your videos on it, and parked it on the Magna facebook page. Thanks again, loving the bike!

@@codykelley7081 I saw it. Thanks! The bike was fun before the swap, but now? Woo doggie!

I end up pouring used mean green into a glass jar, let it sit in the sun for a half hour to an hour and then pour it back into the jug through a filter. The filter catches most of the bigger particles. Then I use the mean green again. Sometimes I add a little more new mean green. I should mention that I don't print things that often. My pattern has been I'll spend a few days to a week printing some parts and then it sits for a few weeks to a month or two before I print something again.

@@krullmi Thank you, that's so helpful (although in winter I guess not possible!) Can you just cure it with regular UV lights or is that bad for the fluid/dangerous? I'm just starting, but given my previous 3D printing exp with filament I suspect I will be the same. I'll likely print in bursts and then take a break for a bit since I'm primarily printing dollhouse minis and maybe some figures! Thank you so much for taking the time to answer, I really appreciate it and I just ordered my wash and cure station :D

@@user-jz2qb7mn2q I believe a straight UV light will not be a problem with the mean green.

@@krullmi Thank yooou!

Got any pictures posted of your glass plate setup?

@@krullmi Unfortunately not but.... if I'm honest it's kind of unnecessary and I wouldn't actually recommend anyone copy it. It only heats the bottom surface so it needs an additional heater for even heat anyway. It does speed up the preheat by a few minutes but it isn't really worth the build time. If your interested though look up aftermarket car rear window heaters. A more interesting project I'm currently working on is a curing chamber that uses an array of 50W 395-400nm COB LED's for both the heat source and light all in one. These LEDs are available for around $10 each. Better yet they also have the LED and driver circuitry on the same chip (they just plug straight into mains). I'm lucky enough to have free access to massive heatsinks leftover from a production process at work so I'm going to be able to build a kilowatt curing chamber for just $200! I'm somewhat concerned it might be too much UV actually... One other problem I'm yet to resolve is chamber temperature regulation but I've got a few ideas that I'll be testing.

That is the pan from my Magna motor. I transferred it to the VFR motor. If you are looking for one you'll have to go used. You can use that pan from a 1991-1997 vfr, but the oil plug will be in the different location as the video shows.

Sorry about that. This video is part of a series where I modified Honda Magna heads and installed them on a VFR motor. I have videos that are much more detailed (and slower) that will step you through removing and replacing the heads Here they are: Removing front head on a 1991 VFR ua-cam.com/video/gsefPvmWPj4/v-deo.html Removing the front head on a 1995 Magna ua-cam.com/video/wMvHkZsjPos/v-deo.html Installing the modified Magna head on the vfr motor ua-cam.com/video/QXmZ88N8rFA/v-deo.html Removing rear head on a 1995 magna and a 1991 VFR ua-cam.com/video/j8mH_Lss3hE/v-deo.html Thanks for pointing this out. I added this list of videos in the description in case someone else is searching on gasket replacement and gets to this video directly.

Funnel dimensions: Diameter = 4.7 inches (119.38 mm) Height = 4.1 inches (104 mm) Amazon link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YJJWNWJ