No disrespect but what kind of pro mechanic have you've been? Lawnmowers? This procedure has been out there for decades and it takes a tad longer than 10 minutes. I think he left off a number.
So you asked. I have been a Technical Rep for two Multinational Tool Manufacturers, a licensed Motorcycle Mechanic, a licensed Millwright (Industrial Mechanic), a Certified Pressure Vessel Welder for the world's largest coal fired generation station and a Maintenance Planner for that generating station for many years. In retirement I operate an Excavating Company while maintaining my personal provincially significant wetland project. I repair my cars, my trucks, excavators, diesel lawn mowers and a large collection of motorcycles and virtually everything. Regarding the procedure in question; The video was good, the author was interesting and a benefit to the public. The method the author used is entertaining and not an issue. It is not the method that I use as I own a crane and prefer to lift the box off the chassis.
Thank you very much for this guide, I don't like anyone else touching my truck after taking it to Firestone for a radiator replacement and getting it back with a cracked head gasket. I have an 09 LT 5.3l crewcab flexfuel incase anyone is wondering, the 4 bolts are almost in the same location, with 2 extra ones near the tailgate. Worked like a charm and saved money while learning something new. I call that a good day
Yep!! I’m totally with you there! Sorry to say but just assume when you take your car in to get one thing fixed, another thing will break. This has happened to me time and time again. Yep!
Thanks for the video. I've watched a ton of videos and decided not to remove the bed and drop the tank. Your method seems to be the most simple of all i've seen.
Great solution. I actually only need to replace the evap sensor and couldn’t get to it. Others had me blindly reaching up there or dropping the tank. But your idea is simple, safe, and effective. Thanks for taking the time to document! Tim
By far the easiest way to get to the fuel pump system. Best video I seen on you tube 👍🏼. I have a 2003 chevy silverado 1500HD SIDE STEP/SPORTS BED. And it seems like almost everything is similar. The only difference is the way you get to the fuel pump system. GREAT JOB AND THANK YOU!!!!! 🔥 🔥
I just did this job on a 2015 Silverado quad cab short box truck (same as yours). We're in WI and fuel pump module was rotted out and leaking from rust. I tilted the bed but I couldn't get it to go high enough to get the fuel pump module out. I think its because my customer's truck had the passenger rear bumper pushed in because he backed into something. I'm still glad I lifted the bed to get the lock ring off because these are a bugger and having the tank bolted to the truck really helps with a long breaker bar on it. Then I had to drop the tank anyways to get the pump out and in. If you're doing this job because of rust, pickup a new lock ring and also the fuel supply tube that comes off the top of the pump and connects down behind the charcoal canister the rusty end just came off the pump and was stuck in the end of the fuel line. My dealer had one for $35 and I was good to go. They redesigned it to have a plastic end at the pump instead of a stainless one. Thanks for the video :)
@@sciencebygabrawy hey is the fuel filter located inside the pump? My 2012 Silverado hesitates when I hit he gas then 3 seconds later the gas kicks in I think my fuel filter is bad
Excellent video dude you are freaking genius. I’m having the same problem with mine. Just put new spark plugs in it and it didn’t help the problem. I believe I’m having the same fuel pump problem and I’m gonna try it the way that you did it. That’s an awesome way of doing it. You have a great day. Thanks for your help, Bryan
This video helped me royally, This might help others. I have a 16 Silverado LT for the smaller box, they have 3 bed bolts on each side, mine were so seized on there the back 2 came off, easily, the other 4 I had to grind off, you have to take the spare out from underneath if you go this route to get access and for the pin connectors for the back up camera ect, you have to pull the red tab down and press in the black tab on top of it to release it
And it did. I have a buddy with a forklift. We ended up just lifting the entire bed up and out of the way. The new pump went in and the job was done in an hour or less. Before seeing this video I was going to try to drop the tank and that wouldve been a nightmare.
Very brilliant I have done it that way a few times or you remove all of the bolts except the two in the very back and loosen those up create a dump bed out of it if you have a tractor or a hoist.. And yes it does not take Four hours like the dealer says they just want their money
Thanks so much for this info, my truck is the same model, n I have lost power n acceleration I wonder if my pump n filter can be an issue? May still need a tune up.
Hi Roger, yes I mean that’s exactly what was happening with mine. I’d swap out the filter first, then get it diagnosed if it’s still causing issues. If you don’t have a diagnostic tool, Auto Zone may be able to pull some codes for free. Or spend the $100 diagnostic at the shop before swapping out the pump. Good luck sir!
This looks like a great way to save time. I'm having a problem with my '16 5.3L that is throwing low fuel pressure codes and rolling thick white smoke. It enters "Reduced Engine Power" mode and flips the stability management off. It's my understanding that there isn't a Fuel Pressure Regulator on these trucks and the fuel pump actually modulates and relieves excess pressure. You think I am on the right track looking into a fuel pump replacement?
Hey Rob, it’s sounds like you might on the right track.. the white smoke is throwing me off though. Every time I’ve had white smoke coming out the tale pipe I’ve went straight for the head gasket. The heads can heat and cool at different rates from the block when they’re made out of different metals causing the gasket in between to slowly weaken. Is your oil good? If it’s milky then it’s gotta be the head gasket. I just wanna make sure you’ve exhausted all diagnostics as replacing the fuel pump is a fairly good size project.
Tilt bed solution.....that is what I do and I live in Ohio with lots of road treatments in winter so lots of rust and corrosion due to that. I have a 2001 ext cab Silverado and I keep my bed bolts lubed when I re install them and have never had an issue with raising the bed in the 12 years I have owned it and have had the bed tilted on several occasions for fuel pump, brake line change, abs unit repair, etc.
what was your secret for getting the pump to clear the bottom of the bed? I'm up as I as I can get and still hinged, like I've put a small dent in the bottom corner of my bed with the bottom of the box ( I can live with that), but I can't get that freaking thing out. looks like the bottom of the pump is exactly the same size as the hole going int and there's no ability to tip it.
I think I propped the bed up around 9”. Then after I lifted the pump up halfway, I’m pretty sure I had to spin it 180 degrees, then tip it towards the front of the truck as I continued to pull it out. Sorry for cutting all that out of the video. I think maybe because it was tough, I needed both hands. Try those maneuvers.
Great video. I’m having issues with the engine sputtering on acceleration. I got an error code for cylinder misfire on cylinder 3 and changed my spark plugs. It went away for about a week and is doing it again. I’m wondering if it could be the fuel pump but I have no idea. I have a 2016 5.3.
Yes the problem might be a bad fuel pump, but it may also be a faulty fuel injector or even a bad coil. Auto Zone may have a fuel pressure loan kit that you could hook up to the fuel rail to test your pressure.
was messing with the relay fuses under the hood for AC reasons while my 06 sierra was on and took out the fuel pump relay fuse and now my truck wont start. could that have triggered the fuel pump to not work????
I work on these trucks for a living at the dealer. For anyone attempting this also check the electrical contractor for the pump I’ve seen them burn out too causing intermittent no start. And there’s no way that pump is $1100-$1300. A Delco pump from the dealer is maybe $500-$600 max. And with something like a fuel pump you need reliability. OEM parts only.
My pump goes in and out. I can leave it sitting for a day it will start i can drive it anywhere then as soon as I turn it off from driving it wont start. Leave it for a few days it will start again. Would you replace the fuel pump or the fuel pump flow control module. When I turn the key on the pump makes no noise so I'm leaning towards the pump. Just want to know before I drop 500 on a pump.
@@Gsxr5slow having the exact issue you were having. Changed 3 pumps already and they all seem to work fine for a while until the problem returns. I’m thinking also fuel control module. What did you end up doing ?
@@lmfr11 I ended up just replacing the pump and everything has been fine since. That’s odd you’ve replaced it 3 times and it’s still happening. I even order the cheap pump and it’s worked out great.
I have replaced mine 4 times. Going with the flap instead if gas cap was an idiot decision from GM. I think sediment is at the bottom from years of dirt road driving.
Thanks for the video, I own the 2014 with 5.3L. Couldn't help but wonder where you are located considering the immense amount of rust and corrosion you have under your truck. I am in Georgia, don't have anywhere near the level of rust here. In case you ever buy a car or truck online or out of state, I'd say here is good compared to there, no offense...
Hi Ruckusmaker, I’m in Minnesota! So that explains the rust lol. It’s funny how so many people noticed because this is completely normal and expected ha. I appreciate the tip!
Airman1 how you doin? I know! I've owned countless Chevys- only one other time did I have an issue with fuel. It was a Camaro. I had to swap the sending unit- which was separate from the fuel pump- anyway yeah.
on the fuel tank pressure sensor wiring is there a clip that holds it in? Or does it just snap in and out? Swapped out the fuel pump module on my 2015 Chevy Silverado and getting error code P0451 which points to the fuel tank pressure sensor even though the new unit had a new one.
Hey bud, if you’re talking about the whole sending unit that drops into the tank, it was just the one metal, flat ring that rotates to lock and unlock. That ring is what holds the whole thing in place and in the tank.
Bigman, there are no screws or bolts to take out the pump from the tank. Just a metal ring that spins to the left an eighth of a turn and it all comes out.
Hey Joni, Honestly I not sure but it’s been about one year now and the truck has been running perfectly since! I guess there may be certain models I suppose.
How many miles did you have on your truck before you started having issues with your fuel pump? I have a 2015 Silverado, 1500, 5.3 V8 and I have 54,000 on mine and seems to be running good still. Knock on wood.
Good luck man. I have no idea how the previous owner took care of mine so that might have something to do with it. I got her at 60k and it just stopped working the other day. The fuel might have something to do with it but I have no idea.
Hey mine had signs of rust when I got to home from purchasing? I have had lots of new GMC and they were all the same.... you spend a fortune for a truck and the chassis is signs in no time ... I think they use salt water to thin down the water base paint they paint them with🤨
Couldn't get the bottom of the old pump out. Hole smaller than the pump. Might have had some tank deflection as I dropped the tank and had it sitting on a 2x6 on a Jack. Did it at a rest area in Idaho where it broke down. Would have lifted the box but have 100+ gallon tidy tank in the box.
The half ton Silverados of this gen have metal top fuel pumps, which in the salt belt last all of about 100k miles. My 2014 is currently rotted away and leaking at one of the elbows and tossing an evap code. Had 2 buddies last gen 1500s with the same problem and we dropped the tank...might give this a shot with mine instead! To those surprised with the rust, the shit wax coating GM uses is useless in the salt belt. Peels right off. I love my truck but damn is the frame rough looking after only 7 years.
Mine had a plastic top and it developed a pin sized hole leak on the left side fuel sending line on the pump. It seems to be a common failure regardless of metal or plastic.
I have a 2014 and like you said, the elbow on the top fitting, which is curved and connects to the high pressure fuel line is rusty. And sure enough, that's the spot leaking. When you replaced yours, did you need to replace the entire assembly and the fuel line too?
I would recommend buying the lines for sure. They come as a set, couple hundred bucks from the dealer but worth the time savings. When I did mine I had to fight with picks and screwdrivers and PB blaster to get the line free from the rotted metal elbow and wound up having to put new tabs in anyways. I've done 2 other trucks since and made the owner buy the lineset. so much easier to drop the tank, pull the old pump with lines on it and toss it right in the trash. go back in with all new. @@ChrisWrightDVM
I gotta check, but it’s gotta be connected to the fuel rail that the injectors are also connected to. You might have to lift the top plastic cover piece on top of the motor. Any ideas guys?
Covers off looked up and down, and under and behind. I'm thinking this thing doesn't have one. Slowly working over the bed bolts. Fronts and backs were easy two middle ones are a pain in the butt.
I have a question for you, did you experience any intermittent loss of power, like it wanted to shut off going over the highway overpass then it would straighten out and you start that next overpass do it again? I'm thinking it's the fuel pump
For my situation, the pump would temporarily quit working till it cooled down again but I would simply be on flat roads 30mph. But your situation also sounds like it could be the fuel pump. With each overpass the driver must step on the gas a bit more. The pump heating up could very well be the reason in your situation too. I knew for sure when I would let it cool then got under and knocked on it and then it would fire up
Did that fuel pump feel spring loaded to you when you pulled it? got everything tore apart, get the new pump in the next couple of days and put her back together and see what happens.
Definitely spring loaded. In the video right around four minutes and 50 seconds you can see the fuel pump and sending unit pop up soon as I take the ring off. Good luck, bro! You got this!
That's the way i do it every time they are out to rip the customer off i probably do two of those a week here in Central Calif. Just remember to blow off the dirt under there.
Wow Tony seriously?? Twice a week?? I had no idea the issue was that prevalent! I’m sure you take care of your clients! Honesty always wins and people always come back when they know you’re looking out for them! Thanks for the tip bud!
Hey let me ask you when your truck was giving you a problem when your truck was just sitting there running it idling and if you were standing outside of the truck doing something did you ever hear like a whining noise and then it would go away and then come back right away go back on and off
Hey James, I’m trying to think back. I think the answer might be yes. Possibly. Sorry it’s been a while now. Does that noise sound similar to when you turn the ignition key forward a few clicks and the fuel pump turns on to prime the line?
Dealer just quoted me $1800 for that. Can buy a aftermarket sending unit with pump for $500. Dealer and a garage both say the earliest they can look at is in 20 days. Guess I doing it my self
Maybe it’s a really small leak? try calculating your MPG over several gas tank fills to see if it checks out. I suppose if the leak is small enough, the gas will just evaporate before hitting the ground making it undetectable. Idk
I cant even get the god damn bolts out I've tried every god damn impact I own on the highest setting and it wont even budge theres little to no rust on the truck either (yes I had it the right way)
I needed two hands. Just pull up and maybe spin a little. It’s a bit annoying as it’ll bump against the tank and catch on the side but just maneuver it a bit and it comes right out.
It’s a great question. If you have the room and the man power so you don’t scratch up the paint, it might make more sense. It will be easier to see what you’re doing. I was by myself so there’s no viable way to remove it and put it back without heavy duty saw horses etc. good question.
I knew damn well you didnt do that in 10 minutes . it takes 10 minutes to get the air gun ,correct size socket ect. together how long was the actual job cause i can drop a tank just as quick but then again i have a lift and a tranny jack
Well yeah bud it took me maybe 90 minutes. I don’t think anyone would want to watch an entire unedited mechanic job hehe. I thought I’d just give you want you needed to know :)
Looks like you have a gas cap.... I have a 2017 serria it has a cap less fill last winter I found you the water was entering the gas fill pipe and freezing. Could put gas in it one day because the fill pipe was frozen!! Water was running down over the side of the truck box and dripping into the filler. It leaked pass the flap doors of the filler... brought it to the dealership they made a joke they burn a percentage of water and sand 🤨they never provided no solution😠i had to come up with one of my own....
Wow, that's too bad Jerry! Of course they laugh- it's not their truck. Billion dollar company doesn't want to help despite it not being your fault at all! Sorry man!
Anyone know if the quick disconnect actually matters? Mine is leaking on my 2017 Chevy Colorado for the main fuel feed. I was thinking about bypassing it and just using hose straps instead.
I'll wager your ground was bad. My pump failed on the highway and AAA towed me to a garage and they replaced the pump. It didn't work either until one of them said 'that ground is pretty rusty, clean it up some.' I wasted hundreds of dollars.
Make sure if it's a half ton that you pull the back bumper off, or it will scratch the s*** out of it on the passenger side then you have a simple $800 touch up repair. I should have paid more attention
@@sciencebygabrawy gotcha, my bad. I've done it your way and cutting the bed and pulling the tank. pulling the tank is my last resort. retired mechanic.
Have been a professional mechanic for 55 years, a back yard and my farm mechanic for 60 years. Thank you for the pro video. Your the best!
Wow! Thank you Robert, that means a lot sir!
No disrespect but what kind of pro mechanic have you've been? Lawnmowers? This procedure has been out there for decades and it takes a tad longer than 10 minutes. I think he left off a number.
So you asked. I have been a Technical Rep for two Multinational Tool Manufacturers, a licensed Motorcycle Mechanic, a licensed Millwright (Industrial Mechanic), a Certified Pressure Vessel Welder for the world's largest coal fired generation station and a Maintenance Planner for that generating station for many years. In retirement I operate an Excavating Company while maintaining my personal provincially significant wetland project. I repair my cars, my trucks, excavators, diesel lawn mowers and a large collection of motorcycles and virtually everything. Regarding the procedure in question; The video was good, the author was interesting and a benefit to the public. The method the author used is entertaining and not an issue. It is not the method that I use as I own a crane and prefer to lift the box off the chassis.
Wow!! I think 10 minutes of hearing from your experience must be worth a lifetime of classes- really!! Impressive!
Thank you very much for this guide, I don't like anyone else touching my truck after taking it to Firestone for a radiator replacement and getting it back with a cracked head gasket. I have an 09 LT 5.3l crewcab flexfuel incase anyone is wondering, the 4 bolts are almost in the same location, with 2 extra ones near the tailgate. Worked like a charm and saved money while learning something new. I call that a good day
Make sure you loosen the bolts on the passenger side do not take them all the way off as the tailgate will kind of fly away from you
Yep!! I’m totally with you there! Sorry to say but just assume when you take your car in to get one thing fixed, another thing will break. This has happened to me time and time again. Yep!
Thanks for the video. I've watched a ton of videos and decided not to remove the bed and drop the tank. Your method seems to be the most simple of all i've seen.
Great solution. I actually only need to replace the evap sensor and couldn’t get to it. Others had me blindly reaching up there or dropping the tank. But your idea is simple, safe, and effective. Thanks for taking the time to document! Tim
By far the easiest way to get to the fuel pump system. Best video I seen on you tube 👍🏼. I have a 2003 chevy silverado 1500HD SIDE STEP/SPORTS BED. And it seems like almost everything is similar. The only difference is the way you get to the fuel pump system. GREAT JOB AND THANK YOU!!!!! 🔥 🔥
Right on John! Glad you enjoyed!
I just did this job on a 2015 Silverado quad cab short box truck (same as yours). We're in WI and fuel pump module was rotted out and leaking from rust. I tilted the bed but I couldn't get it to go high enough to get the fuel pump module out. I think its because my customer's truck had the passenger rear bumper pushed in because he backed into something. I'm still glad I lifted the bed to get the lock ring off because these are a bugger and having the tank bolted to the truck really helps with a long breaker bar on it. Then I had to drop the tank anyways to get the pump out and in.
If you're doing this job because of rust, pickup a new lock ring and also the fuel supply tube that comes off the top of the pump and connects down behind the charcoal canister the rusty end just came off the pump and was stuck in the end of the fuel line. My dealer had one for $35 and I was good to go. They redesigned it to have a plastic end at the pump instead of a stainless one.
Thanks for the video :)
Hi Mike, very good advice!
Thanks man! I need this done and the dealer quoted me at $961 total to replace this. Now I can do it myself with the cost of parts only!
Awesome bro! Glad to help!
@@sciencebygabrawy hey is the fuel filter located inside the pump? My 2012 Silverado hesitates when I hit he gas then 3 seconds later the gas kicks in I think my fuel filter is bad
my mechanic quoted me $900
my dealer quoted ne a total of $1,800. Screw that might as well do it myself
Apparently the fuel pump anywhere from 500 to $1200.@henryholliday1
Excellent video dude you are freaking genius. I’m having the same problem with mine. Just put new spark plugs in it and it didn’t help the problem. I believe I’m having the same fuel pump problem and I’m gonna try it the way that you did it. That’s an awesome way of doing it. You have a great day. Thanks for your help, Bryan
Thanks for the compliment Bryan! Go get er done!
This video helped me royally, This might help others. I have a 16 Silverado LT for the smaller box, they have 3 bed bolts on each side, mine were so seized on there the back 2 came off, easily, the other 4 I had to grind off, you have to take the spare out from underneath if you go this route to get access and for the pin connectors for the back up camera ect, you have to pull the red tab down and press in the black tab on top of it to release it
Long live ICE trucks lol
Wow this is great! You take all the fear out of doing it myself. Thanks!
and the gas cap hose. You missed teaching us how to remove it. but your video is good. greetings from Sinaloa Mexico
Man your trucks new i have a 2010 same pump hope ya have better luck
Life saver! I’m sure this is going to save me a ton of money.
And it did. I have a buddy with a forklift. We ended up just lifting the entire bed up and out of the way. The new pump went in and the job was done in an hour or less. Before seeing this video I was going to try to drop the tank and that wouldve been a nightmare.
Great job really helpful thanks for the video
Thanks - great video -- will try it next weekend
Man thanks for the help! My pump went out on a oilfield lease road had to change it out on pad.
You bet! Go get em!
Very brilliant I have done it that way a few times or you remove all of the bolts except the two in the very back and loosen those up create a dump bed out of it if you have a tractor or a hoist.. And yes it does not take Four hours like the dealer says they just want their money
Hi Ed, yep I agree. It pays to be able to fix your own cars and toys and tools ha
This guy is the real mvp
Thanks bruh
Gr8 video
I noticed you have proffesional
Air tools
Mmm kinda not really. I do have one pneumatic tool and a regular typical compressor. Yes, it does make the job easier.
You are a god send
Hi Jaime, glad I can help!
Awesome video.
May I ask if stuttering at start up and idles out fine after 6-8 secs is a symptom of a bad pump? Thanks fam!
Thanks so much for this info, my truck is the same model, n I have lost power n acceleration I wonder if my pump n filter can be an issue? May still need a tune up.
Hi Roger, yes I mean that’s exactly what was happening with mine. I’d swap out the filter first, then get it diagnosed if it’s still causing issues. If you don’t have a diagnostic tool, Auto Zone may be able to pull some codes for free. Or spend the $100 diagnostic at the shop before swapping out the pump. Good luck sir!
This video is very helpful, thank you very much for sharing!!
This looks like a great way to save time. I'm having a problem with my '16 5.3L that is throwing low fuel pressure codes and rolling thick white smoke. It enters "Reduced Engine Power" mode and flips the stability management off. It's my understanding that there isn't a Fuel Pressure Regulator on these trucks and the fuel pump actually modulates and relieves excess pressure. You think I am on the right track looking into a fuel pump replacement?
Hey Rob, it’s sounds like you might on the right track.. the white smoke is throwing me off though. Every time I’ve had white smoke coming out the tale pipe I’ve went straight for the head gasket. The heads can heat and cool at different rates from the block when they’re made out of different metals causing the gasket in between to slowly weaken. Is your oil good? If it’s milky then it’s gotta be the head gasket. I just wanna make sure you’ve exhausted all diagnostics as replacing the fuel pump is a fairly good size project.
Dope video. That bed part blew my mind!!!!
Thanks Good video.
GREAT TUTORIAL THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Thanks I'm about to do on my 14 Sierra
Good luck bud!
Got it done in 2 hours, thanks again for the video
Tilt bed solution.....that is what I do and I live in Ohio with lots of road treatments in winter so lots of rust and corrosion due to that. I have a 2001 ext cab Silverado and
I keep my bed bolts lubed when I re install them and have never had an issue with raising the bed in the 12 years I have owned it and have had the bed tilted on several occasions for fuel pump, brake line change, abs unit repair, etc.
Badass bro
Hehe, thanks Airman!
Thank you.
Very good tutorial.
Thank you sir!
Thank you for the video very informative
Absolutely Laura!
what was your secret for getting the pump to clear the bottom of the bed? I'm up as I as I can get and still hinged, like I've put a small dent in the bottom corner of my bed with the bottom of the box ( I can live with that), but I can't get that freaking thing out. looks like the bottom of the pump is exactly the same size as the hole going int and there's no ability to tip it.
I think I propped the bed up around 9”. Then after I lifted the pump up halfway, I’m pretty sure I had to spin it 180 degrees, then tip it towards the front of the truck as I continued to pull it out. Sorry for cutting all that out of the video. I think maybe because it was tough, I needed both hands. Try those maneuvers.
Great video. I’m having issues with the engine sputtering on acceleration. I got an error code for cylinder misfire on cylinder 3 and changed my spark plugs. It went away for about a week and is doing it again. I’m wondering if it could be the fuel pump but I have no idea. I have a 2016 5.3.
Yes the problem might be a bad fuel pump, but it may also be a faulty fuel injector or even a bad coil. Auto Zone may have a fuel pressure loan kit that you could hook up to the fuel rail to test your pressure.
was messing with the relay fuses under the hood for AC reasons while my 06 sierra was on and took out the fuel pump relay fuse and now my truck wont start. could that have triggered the fuel pump to not work????
very nice...just please be careful. That's alot of weight. For a 2015, judging by the appearance, the truck has had a hard life.
4:28 What is that tool you’re using to get the ring loose?
I think I was using a pneumatic air hammer. This way I could use just one hand. It hammers very fast.
This young lady should run for Gov. in Cali!!!!
I work on these trucks for a living at the dealer. For anyone attempting this also check the electrical contractor for the pump I’ve seen them burn out too causing intermittent no start. And there’s no way that pump is $1100-$1300. A Delco pump from the dealer is maybe $500-$600 max. And with something like a fuel pump you need reliability. OEM parts only.
If it was reliable it would not have to be replaced in only 4 years
My pump goes in and out. I can leave it sitting for a day it will start i can drive it anywhere then as soon as I turn it off from driving it wont start. Leave it for a few days it will start again. Would you replace the fuel pump or the fuel pump flow control module. When I turn the key on the pump makes no noise so I'm leaning towards the pump. Just want to know before I drop 500 on a pump.
@@Gsxr5slow having the exact issue you were having. Changed 3 pumps already and they all seem to work fine for a while until the problem returns. I’m thinking also fuel control module. What did you end up doing ?
@@lmfr11 I ended up just replacing the pump and everything has been fine since. That’s odd you’ve replaced it 3 times and it’s still happening. I even order the cheap pump and it’s worked out great.
I have replaced mine 4 times. Going with the flap instead if gas cap was an idiot decision from GM. I think sediment is at the bottom from years of dirt road driving.
Good day Good video. What did pump & sender cost & were from ? Thanks
Great video. Is there a similar way to access on a Suburban?
Of it’s not exactly the same, it’s gonna be very similar. Anyone else know?
How much do you pay for your gas pump and where do you buy it thanks for the video it really helps out a lot
Hi Roberto, I’m glad you liked the vid! I bought mine from delphia auto parts online. I believe it was $700 if I remember correctly.
Thanks for the video, I own the 2014 with 5.3L. Couldn't help but wonder where you are located considering the immense amount of rust and corrosion you have under your truck. I am in Georgia, don't have anywhere near the level of rust here. In case you ever buy a car or truck online or out of state, I'd say here is good compared to there, no offense...
Hi Ruckusmaker, I’m in Minnesota! So that explains the rust lol. It’s funny how so many people noticed because this is completely normal and expected ha. I appreciate the tip!
Dropping the tank is easy also took me 20 minutes to drop the tank. Now I can work on the tank on a work bench
Good idea Ronny! It's too bad these parts go bad so quickly but anyway. Good luck bud!
what part was 10 minutes? the truck running part
I have a 2007 Classic Bowtie and never had fuel pump problems. The only time it would need to be upgraded is if I am running any boosted MAP.
Airman1 how you doin? I know! I've owned countless Chevys- only one other time did I have an issue with fuel. It was a Camaro. I had to swap the sending unit- which was separate from the fuel pump- anyway yeah.
on the fuel tank pressure sensor wiring is there a clip that holds it in? Or does it just snap in and out? Swapped out the fuel pump module on my 2015 Chevy Silverado and getting error code P0451 which points to the fuel tank pressure sensor even though the new unit had a new one.
Hey bud, if you’re talking about the whole sending unit that drops into the tank, it was just the one metal, flat ring that rotates to lock and unlock. That ring is what holds the whole thing in place and in the tank.
what did you use your drill for when you reinstalled the new fuel pump? it didnt seem like you unscrewed anything when you took the old one out
Bigman, there are no screws or bolts to take out the pump from the tank. Just a metal ring that spins to the left an eighth of a turn and it all comes out.
Good Video
i thought these Trucks also have a Fuel Pump Module Driver that also has to Be Reprogramed ???
Hey Joni, Honestly I not sure but it’s been about one year now and the truck has been running perfectly since! I guess there may be certain models I suppose.
How many miles did you have on your truck before you started having issues with your fuel pump? I have a 2015 Silverado, 1500, 5.3 V8 and I have 54,000 on mine and seems to be running good still. Knock on wood.
Roy Giller mine just gave out at 70k 😕
@@jaimegallo3930 That's not good to hear. I hope that I don't have the same problem when I reach 70 thousand miles.
Good luck man. I have no idea how the previous owner took care of mine so that might have something to do with it. I got her at 60k and it just stopped working the other day. The fuel might have something to do with it but I have no idea.
Hi Roy, I think it had around 50,000 when I first started noticing issues. Now it has maybe 85,000. I'm glad yours is still going strong!
My 2014 gmc fuel pump just went out at 135k, definitely will be saving some money doing this myself!
Is the part number written on the pump?
Sorry bud I’m not sure, anybody know?
what brand of pump do you use?
What area are you in? I'm disappointed in gm to see so much rust
Same
LOL, MN. So true ha
It's a GM, what'd you expect?
Hey mine had signs of rust when I got to home from purchasing? I have had lots of new GMC and they were all the same.... you spend a fortune for a truck and the chassis is signs in no time ... I think they use salt water to thin down the water base paint they paint them with🤨
Um? Anywhere they put salt on the roads during the winter, every vehicle looks like this after spending a few years on the salted roads.
Do you have to prime the pump?
what color is power wire
Nice! And he manhandled the bed!
Lol
Couldn't get the bottom of the old pump out. Hole smaller than the pump. Might have had some tank deflection as I dropped the tank and had it sitting on a 2x6 on a Jack. Did it at a rest area in Idaho where it broke down. Would have lifted the box but have 100+ gallon tidy tank in the box.
what was the odometer at when this happened to you
I wanna say around 83,000. Crazy I know.
The half ton Silverados of this gen have metal top fuel pumps, which in the salt belt last all of about 100k miles. My 2014 is currently rotted away and leaking at one of the elbows and tossing an evap code. Had 2 buddies last gen 1500s with the same problem and we dropped the tank...might give this a shot with mine instead! To those surprised with the rust, the shit wax coating GM uses is useless in the salt belt. Peels right off. I love my truck but damn is the frame rough looking after only 7 years.
Very very interesting, thanks 3 wheeler!
Mine had a plastic top and it developed a pin sized hole leak on the left side fuel sending line on the pump. It seems to be a common failure regardless of metal or plastic.
I have a 2014 and like you said, the elbow on the top fitting, which is curved and connects to the high pressure fuel line is rusty. And sure enough, that's the spot leaking. When you replaced yours, did you need to replace the entire assembly and the fuel line too?
I would recommend buying the lines for sure. They come as a set, couple hundred bucks from the dealer but worth the time savings. When I did mine I had to fight with picks and screwdrivers and PB blaster to get the line free from the rotted metal elbow and wound up having to put new tabs in anyways. I've done 2 other trucks since and made the owner buy the lineset. so much easier to drop the tank, pull the old pump with lines on it and toss it right in the trash. go back in with all new. @@ChrisWrightDVM
The fuse panels can also be to blame they corrode internally and will sometimes be misdiagnosed as a pump but really needs a panel.
I didn’t know that foxbody guy eighty eight, good to know
Yup I got a P12A6 code for fuel module to be replaced and it ended up being the fuse box being corroded. I have a 2015 Silverado
Good video bud ,but disconnect your battery spark and gas no more truck👍
I've got a 16, with a 6.0, wanted to check pressure put can't find the Schrader Valve, got any thoughts?
I gotta check, but it’s gotta be connected to the fuel rail that the injectors are also connected to. You might have to lift the top plastic cover piece on top of the motor. Any ideas guys?
Covers off looked up and down, and under and behind. I'm thinking this thing doesn't have one. Slowly working over the bed bolts. Fronts and backs were easy two middle ones are a pain in the butt.
Yep, I hear ya. For the stubborn ones maybe some lithium grease and let it sit for a few minutes or put some heat on it.
Did u need any special tools to take off the old pump?
Hey Cisko, I just used a pneumatic hammer. A flat head screwdriver and hammer works too. That ring is on tight but it just spins- leftee loosee.
Cool thank you
Good stuff
I have a question for you, did you experience any intermittent loss of power, like it wanted to shut off going over the highway overpass then it would straighten out and you start that next overpass do it again? I'm thinking it's the fuel pump
For my situation, the pump would temporarily quit working till it cooled down again but I would simply be on flat roads 30mph. But your situation also sounds like it could be the fuel pump. With each overpass the driver must step on the gas a bit more. The pump heating up could very well be the reason in your situation too. I knew for sure when I would let it cool then got under and knocked on it and then it would fire up
Why didnt you change fuel filter why you were there?
Thanks god bless you
Thanks Juan!
actual removal and replace time 5 minuntes , that was fast .
Thank you!
How many bolts on the bed do I have to remove
4 if I remember correctly. The other side you just have to loosen so that the bed can tip
Did that fuel pump feel spring loaded to you when you pulled it? got everything tore apart, get the new pump in the next couple of days and put her back together and see what happens.
Definitely spring loaded. In the video right around four minutes and 50 seconds you can see the fuel pump and sending unit pop up soon as I take the ring off. Good luck, bro! You got this!
That's the way i do it every time they are out to rip the customer off i probably do two of those a week here in Central Calif. Just remember to blow off the dirt under there.
Wow Tony seriously?? Twice a week?? I had no idea the issue was that prevalent! I’m sure you take care of your clients! Honesty always wins and people always come back when they know you’re looking out for them! Thanks for the tip bud!
Hey let me ask you when your truck was giving you a problem when your truck was just sitting there running it idling and if you were standing outside of the truck doing something did you ever hear like a whining noise and then it would go away and then come back right away go back on and off
Hey James, I’m trying to think back. I think the answer might be yes. Possibly. Sorry it’s been a while now. Does that noise sound similar to when you turn the ignition key forward a few clicks and the fuel pump turns on to prime the line?
I've seen that it could be done on the older chevys but I figured I'd break something doing it on my truck lmao
Dealer just quoted me $1800 for that. Can buy a aftermarket sending unit with pump for $500. Dealer and a garage both say the earliest they can look at is in 20 days. Guess I doing it my self
the best
You gotta explain this stuff a lil more man. Th was on that drill ?
question did you have a room to get up under im 6 4 over 300 lol
I’ll be honest- not much room but if you put your mind to it you’ll succeed
Just reaks like gas on the back end but no sign of a leak
Maybe it’s a really small leak? try calculating your MPG over several gas tank fills to see if it checks out. I suppose if the leak is small enough, the gas will just evaporate before hitting the ground making it undetectable. Idk
I cant even get the god damn bolts out I've tried every god damn impact I own on the highest setting and it wont even budge theres little to no rust on the truck either (yes I had it the right way)
Man. That’s a lot of rust. My 2012 is still good. You city folk must sure get a lot of road salt in the winter
Yep MN bro!
How come you didn't show how you took the fuel pump out of the tank
I needed two hands. Just pull up and maybe spin a little. It’s a bit annoying as it’ll bump against the tank and catch on the side but just maneuver it a bit and it comes right out.
LIT_ALASKA_LOVES
Sounds great if you don’t live in BUFFALO NEW YORK
Serious question, why not just remove the entire bed and risk tilting it up at a angle? Wouldnt it be easier just to entirely remove the bed?
It’s a great question. If you have the room and the man power so you don’t scratch up the paint, it might make more sense. It will be easier to see what you’re doing. I was by myself so there’s no viable way to remove it and put it back without heavy duty saw horses etc. good question.
@@sciencebygabrawy got you, ok thank you very much. I was seriously perplexed cause I thought it was something major I was missing. Thank you man!
You bet bro! I’m always open to suggestions too lol!
All of these trucks should be designed with an access panel in the bed. C'mon guys...
Yep I absolutely agree 100%!
I cut one in mine I can change my pump anywhere it goes out in minutes.
Genius, seriously.
I knew damn well you didnt do that in 10 minutes . it takes 10 minutes to get the air gun ,correct size socket ect. together how long was the actual job cause i can drop a tank just as quick but then again i have a lift and a tranny jack
Well yeah bud it took me maybe 90 minutes. I don’t think anyone would want to watch an entire unedited mechanic job hehe. I thought I’d just give you want you needed to know :)
A new pump is $165.00 not 1300.00 ..????
Better check prices again, son just bought one for $1200.00
Fuel Pump Assembly - 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door - Brock 125149-02798686
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Fuel Pump Assembly - 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door - Brock 125149-02798686 - Fitment Image
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Fuel Pump Assembly - 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door - Brock 125149-02798686
Review Fitment Notes
Part Number: 125149-02798686
Brand: Brock
Notes: Fuel Pump Module Assembly
Condition: New
Shipping Options: Free Ground Shipping
$84.98
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10 minutes.......sure, Commander McBragg, whatever you say.
Looks like you have a gas cap.... I have a 2017 serria it has a cap less fill last winter I found you the water was entering the gas fill pipe and freezing. Could put gas in it one day because the fill pipe was frozen!! Water was running down over the side of the truck box and dripping into the filler. It leaked pass the flap doors of the filler... brought it to the dealership they made a joke they burn a percentage of water and sand 🤨they never provided no solution😠i had to come up with one of my own....
Wow, that's too bad Jerry! Of course they laugh- it's not their truck. Billion dollar company doesn't want to help despite it not being your fault at all! Sorry man!
Anyone know if the quick disconnect actually matters? Mine is leaking on my 2017 Chevy Colorado for the main fuel feed. I was thinking about bypassing it and just using hose straps instead.
Personally i would prefer a hose clamp. Quick connects are for mass production purposes.
I'll wager your ground was bad. My pump failed on the highway and AAA towed me to a garage and they replaced the pump. It didn't work either until one of them said 'that ground is pretty rusty, clean it up some.' I wasted hundreds of dollars.
Wow! I’m wondering now if that was all that was wrong with mine lol
@@sciencebygabrawy If there's a 'next time' it's something to check first.
Yes! Much appreciated seriously!!
Make sure if it's a half ton that you pull the back bumper off, or it will scratch the s*** out of it on the passenger side then you have a simple $800 touch up repair. I should have paid more attention
Oh no! Sorry man! 1/2 Ton trucks pay attention!
One configuration. They’re not all like that.
My bed is to heavy to do that idk maybe I'm weak lol
Lol no it is heavy. A little bit of help will do the trick!
You mean 10 minutes per bolt plus 10 to pull pump and 10 to put it back in. I think you left off a number.
lol 😂😂 I honestly didn’t mean to be misleading. What I meant is learn how in 10 minutes. The vid is 10 minutes.
@@sciencebygabrawy gotcha, my bad. I've done it your way and cutting the bed and pulling the tank. pulling the tank is my last resort. retired mechanic.
If you place a microfiber towel between corner of bed and cab you wouldn"t have tore into your paint at 3:30
Oh smart! Thanks for the tip Wayne!
Damn bro that thing is a rust bucket.
Thought the fuel pump was under the intake
that the high pressure fuel pump since gm has direct injection in the motors
Yup you’ve got a low pressure and high pressure pump on the new cars.