@@leonb2637 I'm not a expert but in other areas the quality of those things are changing or aren't possible. I watched it in France where a wineyard can't make wine anymore because it's too hot, to dry or extreme weather. But I also saw a documentary about "agroforestry" which did improve soil and yields. Trees are great and good so just try it
I had the ole vibration in a 1995 Chevy, changed driveshaft (2 piece carrier bearing), old one was bad, but replacement wasn't any better. So I utubed it and found out it would take the aluminum one piece that goes in the V8 version and I still had a vibration. Cannon fired. I grabbed a rear tranny mount for 12 bucks at the AZ store, took the 5 minutes to install it, and voila... No more vibration. I am not a auto mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express, so that means I am also a tightwad that thinks he can save a buck. Sometimes gettin educated ain't cheap. And why I watch the best. (never hurts to butter up the host). Thanks, Mr O.
You may a need to swap back to the 2 piece drive shaft. They use a 2 piece because the v6 + trany does not sit as far back. When loaded or towing the two piece drive shaft helps maintain proper pinion angle.
I just traveled through your beautiful town the other day on the Southern Tier Expressway. My family was considerably less excited than I was to see Wilberts in person from the highway
I worked as a manufacturing engineer at American Axle about 20 years ago which manufactured rear axles for GM vehicles. We used to balance the axle pinions with weld weight(s) and measure and mark the “high” point of runout with a paint dot on the pinion yoke. The “low” point of runout was measured and marked with a paint dot by the driveshaft manufacturer. Driveshafts were balanced with weld weights as well. At the GM vehicle assembly plants, they would align these marks as close to possible during assembly to minimize total runout of both parts. The runouts will “partially” subtract from one another when assembled in this manner. If installed with the marks opposite each other, the total runout will partially add, which could lead to balance issues, even if both parts are balanced in the factory. Its important to understand the difference between runout and balance. Excess runout causes more imbalance, etc. amplified by mass of the rotating parts. Runout is generally worse with yoke designs as these are usually broached and its more difficult to control runout of the yoke relative to the pinion spline. With any turned or cylindrical pinion-to-driveshaft connection (as opposed to a yoke), runout is near zero so driveshaft to axle alignment is less important. It just easier to control runout on a turned part vs a milled or broached part. Even with a yoke, it is possible to have no runout. If there is no runout in the driveshaft and pinion yokes, then its not critical to align them during assembly or mark them during disassembly, etc. In the end, I would imagine that machined runout has improved over the last few decades with the advent of CNC machines, so the need to mark and align is reduced based on that.
That was an impressive demonstration of your skills and knowledge. I think your dad must have set an excellent example for you. I'm an old guy, now 74 and my back and hands almost ache watching you do those repairs. I used to be able but now, not so much. When your body starts to hurt too much, I think you could easily do a second career teaching the next generation. Cheers!
I appreciate the fact, as I’m sure the client does, that you are willing to reuse what makes sense and not just run the bill up. I’m sure it’d have been easier to just throw all new parts at the job. Reinforces what most of us long time viewers know about your character as a person.
Best channel on UA-cam. 20 years ago I paid $1500 for a fuel pump in a 2000 Silverado, because I wasn’t confident I could do it. I was told “that’s a lot of work”, today I would do it and more because of this channel! Thanks you!
Anyone else remember the old "Outdoors with Eric O" channel when the kids were, you know, still kids? My goodness time flies and the kids grow up so dang fast! And great job saving the customer money, lucky for them you were able to re-use those lines.
I respect your desire to save your customer some cash but in a case like this where the removal is a bit of time you should offer customer the choice to replace with the pump removal or add your missed markups to the bill - probably $30 per line - save it for the times when the seals of those rusty old lines leak, which you definitely won't be charging any customer for parts and labor when you fix 'your damage' to his 'perfectly fine' fuel & vent lines.
The neighbors would love him. Just think, he is dedicated. 0600 and 85 degrees. Here 85 at night is not unusual. Great job Mr. Eric! Nice to see Mrs. O and Miss Trinity.
Just remember that Mrs O is a dead shot with the gun and bow and arrow,that's even before protective dad Eric has a chance to load his favourite armament 🤭
You always tell us just what we need to know during the process, never too little, never unnecessary excess.....well except for the short stories that are always interesting. Keep it up. Best channel on UA-cam. Thank you.
Eight years in the northeast is a nightmare on any vehicle. This one actually looked fairly good for 8 years of road salt and minimal care by the owner.
As a resident of Upstate rust belt NY, I can proudly say I’ve changed 3 fuel pumps, two in 1500 silverados, 1 Tahoe All 2004’s. The rusty crusty Silverado’s I removed bed liners, cut 3 sides of the access hole, bent it back to open it..did the job, bent it back, slid the bed liner back. You’d never know it was done! The 2004 tahoe we took the back seat out, rolled back the carpet, same thing! Easy enough Never knew it was done when all put back together! New pumps will out last the trucks!
I have changed 3 fuel pumps of this type. Not having a lift I knew it was going to be a bit*h doing it the regular way. So I cut a hole in the floor under the back seat for access. First time was scary (from doing something irregular) but it worked out fine. Next two times were a breeze as I knew how easy it actually was.
I had trouble removing the filling neck hose on my van I couldn't find a way to get it loose, so I took a fairly thick rag. Got it wet put it in microwave. Got it really hot and got it up there and wrapped it around the rubber tube and let it soak for about 5 minutes then I grabbed the rubber hose and start twisting it and finally got it off. So that trick worked at least once.
I'm a DIY guy and I did my '96 C3500 fuel pump about 4 years ago. Of COURSE I'd just filled the thing with 35 gallons ... Nothin' like rolling around on a concrete driveway in 115 degree Az desert sunshine. It was still easier than pulling the bed - Especially since it's got a service body on it. As always - You make it look easy!
The rust never ends. You are awesome for having the solutions to rusty situations. Things can get ugly real fast. I wish Americans made GM parts with better quality materials. We need more made in USA.
It's amazing just the wealth of information this channel provides... I've been watching for quite some time and it never ceases to amaze just how much this channel teaches me. It's all the little things... From the tips about remembering to save the fuel level sensor, to demonstrations on how to crack loose the lock ring that's been rusted shut. Just amazing
When you replace the fuel pump turn the key on - key off about 2 times with a slight pause in between to prime the fuel rail. That way you do not have to crank so long. Love your video's
I just love how Eric takes care of the customer. A lost of shops would just go with the estimated amount and really, how would the customer know any different? I wouldn't. I'd be happy to have my truck back and get ready for the next time it needs service. Clearly Mr. O has a conscience and lives right!
Those were the days. I remember changing my fuel pump on my 1976 Impala 350ci on the side of the road when it sprung a leak. A small tool kit in the trunk was all that was needed.
A friend of mine told me that I should just pull off the box. I got all the bolts off a few friends helped me slide it back. Easy peezy! No strap work. Sure beats dropping the tank!
You have to be living right Eric, that had to be one of the smoothest fuel pump jobs I've ever seen! Also, liked your little "screwdriver" you used to get the "balanced" drive shaft out lol. Thanks for the update video, have a great weekend! Edit: Turn the fan on, we can deal with a little noise
@@SouthMainAuto Try one of those Dyson fans, they're nearly silent and move a lot of air. It creates like a vortex ring. Yes it's nowhere near as good as your shop fan, but it's like 100dB quieter.
I did the angle grinder method on my 2004 Avalanche last month. 260k miles later and the factory pump finally gave out. I ended up using some 4" wide rubber roofing tape to seal the hole when I was done and it worked perfectly. Took me about 2 hours smashing the ring to get it off though. And had to buy 2 new quick disconnect connectors and press them on. Lot of lessons learned. Lol
I just changed my fuel pump in my 30 year old chev van . Years ago I got tired of those fuel lines breaking or hard to get of so I changed them all to AN lines and fitting. Now no trouble with rusted lines
I'm a DIY in the rust belt in Wisconsin. That fuel pump ring is always a total nightmare. I'm always so worried using air tools due to sparks. Was getting nervous for Eric there. I think the ring takes longer that the whole job. Great video as always.
I had to replace the fuel pump on my '03 Avalanche a few years back. In addition to the floor jack, I used two ratchet straps to ensure the tank didn't tilt out of control and fall. Definitely helps set the mind at ease when doing the job solo. Oh, and I'm happy you were able to see the customer money by reusing a lot of the parts. My plastic lines were toast.
Done this job a few times. The easiest way I have found to do the fuel pump change, is loosen the bed bolts on the passenger side enough so when you remove the driver's side bed bolts you can tilt that side up enough so you can get at the pump. Make sure you place some type of support securely between the frame and the tilted bed. I live in southeastern Michigan, so salt is a problem here too. The truck I worked on was a 2000 Silverado and the time of the fuel pump replacement was 2017. The top of the tank was not nearly as bad of shape as the one in this video. The job was not all that bad to do. Just make sure you buy a quality fuel pump, you don't want to do this job again because of a cheap fuel pump that fails prematurely. Ask me how I know.
I did that on the last fuel pump job I did. I felt like a pretzel getting my body in there to get the pump out. Plus I had the bed hanging over me, hoping I would not get stuck. I personally will not do it that way again. Drop the tank would be my first choice with the setup I have.
I DIY'd the same job on my 2001 Ford Explorer XLS about 5 years ago using a 3 ton floor jack and 4 jack stands. Did the job for $136. That included the fuel pump, pressure sensor and fuel filter.
I completely love these videos! Eric you are the man, such a great mechanic whether you believe it or not because I seriously see so many other Mechanics just not care and would be willing to care less about saving a penny for the customer. Awesome job my friend, i love your videos and your literally the only channel I ever joined and became a member of, I find it so much more worth it to spend some money a month to support a great local NY mechanic!
When the fuel pump in my Chevy Silverado went bad I had no lift access to I cut an access hole through the truck bed directly over the fuel pump. After that, it was relatively easy to pull the old and install the new pump. A week later, when the replacement pump went bad, I had a new one installed in about 30 minutes.
My neighbor's love me too. Either early in the morning or late at night. Air compressor, hammers, etc. it's a part of life. Surprised that everything was reusable. Great video
In the olden days when I lived in the rust belt I did that kind of stuff laying on my back in gravel driveways. Course fuel pumps did not then hang out inside the gas tank so the hole in the tank was smaller. Salt crap would eat its way down through the top of the tank and up from the bottom, especially on trucks with steel impact guards below the gas tank. There was a business in Hartville Ohio where you could take your tank to be cleaned and coated with fibreglass for less than half the price of a new tank. I did that a few times, problem was the tank was a bit larger when it came back and you had to find a safe place to put a grounding screw in so your gas gauge would work. Enjoy watching your work and trips to the junk yard. I recall we used to take beer and make a day of it.
I have a 2015 version of this truck. Thank you Eric for posting this video. I learned something about my truck. Beautiful family Mr. O. You're a good man.
Woke this morning to my window unit peeing on the floor and the yardman cutting grass at 6:30 am. So I used your video to drown out the yardman and the woes of having water on my wood floor. Not the first fuel pump you've done but it is so nice to see someone get to do one on a rack. Never had that luxury and at 68 I'm done with fuel pumps in tanks and tying shop rags around my wrists. lol
@@draidt None of them do. Toyota was well aware of a pile of problems with the 2nd gen Tundra and did nothing to fix any of those issues when they designed and released the 3rd gen Tacoma. Heck, I remember when I had a 1st gen Tacoma those trucks had the absolute worst rust rot issues to the point Toyota was close to being forced to issue a recall. They did nothing then, did nothing to fix it with the 2nd gen, and now early model years of the 3rd gen have been added to the TSB for frame rust. They don't give a flying f.
I recently did the same job on my 2005 RAM. The steel pump retainer ring removal was the big part of the job. Just got BIG NASTY recently but did not use it to remove the ring. I found that heavy application of PB Blaster on the ring and hammering a 4 LB mallet with a brass drift got it to come loose. As Eric said, gots to be very careful not to damage the tank. A shop vac helps a lot to keep the pump area clean. Expect tons of rust debris!😊
My understanding as to why mark the driveshaft was to ensure it goes back in the same orientation as it was. Due to manufacturing tollarances there could be slight runout of the flange and or shaft. If there was no vibration before disassembly there should be none afterwards. At the dealership I worked at for 20 years I had a vibration after driveshaft removal for a pinion seal. Reindexed the the driveshaft 180 degrees and problem solved. Yes I agree they are all balanced individually and it should not matter. Just my opinion...
there's always a bit of runout, some could be indexed for the least runout. but the stuff also wears in and the smallest amount of change can cause runout and vibration. plus if it's marked you can point and say it was put back exactly the same and not your problem. just like the guy blaming rusted rims on his bad shop air! 🙄
@@SouthMainAuto I asked one of my automotive instructors about this and he said that it is possible to do an on-vehicle driveshaft/driveline balance (WeberAuto has a 2-part series on it) and if that has been done then the orientation does matter. He also added similar as above i.e if there wasn't a vibration before just go ahead and put it back the way it was to avoid any potential tail chasing afterwards.
love the work you do! 2001 3500HD with the big 8.1L, just did a rear tank repair, whole fuel sender was rotted and gone, lock ring and tabs gone, the tank filled to the brim with water.... fun times.
Just to let you know, when I am scrolling down my list of new subscribed videos and I see South Main Auto I stop right there and it's a first watch for me. Love the humor and the education.
You broke the #1 mechanic rule. Always remove the part from the box and inspect before removing old part. Been burned too many times with wrong or broken parts.
@@imtheeastgermanguy5431 Waste your time. Bring vehicle in, remove fuel tank, open box and find new pump wrong or broken. Now you wait for another part or push the truck out side. Too much time spent that I won't get paid for.
Man dadwho is not with us now always told us "success or failure is the attention to small details" Our two boys are mechanics and a body man and the both of them work just like you. As a parent makes you feel proud when you hear people tell us how they treated them.
For those of us who do not have a lift I have done several just by unbolting the bed and raising it up and shifting it back enough to change the pump. I keep a pair of Giant 2x6 saw horses just for removing beds.
That's a great tip. If all else fails you can do what my customer did. Remove the hard plastic bed liner and sawsall your own access hole. Bend it back in place when you're done and reinsert the bed liner. Its a rough work truck. We're a half hr from Eric and down the road from a massive salt mine. Gotta love the rust and rot. I don't recommend that way but if you have no choice I guess you gotta do what you gotta do.
I had to put new ends on most of my gas lines, as my 2007 salt-belt Yukon had severe rust-jacking inside the connectors. I made a tool out of a wood clamp and they pressed on quite easily. Saved a lot as they were just a few dollars each. I had only a couple of jack stands, and a long 2x4 to lever it back in place, but I drained the tank to enable it.
Yeah, there was a video a while ago where the neighbor WASN'T mowing, and I thought maybe one of the O's should go check on the guy, make sure he's ok.
What I liked about my '76, 1/2 ton, 4x4 short wheel base Chevy, is it had dual tanks, and an easily accessible three way solenoid valve under the driver on the frame. If the solenoid valve failed you could just loosen the hose clamps and change the hoses to get home. My '87 3/4 ton 4x4 had dual tanks also. One time a child's toe moved the fuel tank switch to the center of the two positions as I was going up a hill. It took about 2 seconds to realize what had happened. When I had that 1976 is when I realized that gasoline will melt an asphalt street in a spot.
hahaha.... yep, and those 2 vehicles I still own/have on this S.E. Kansas farm. I'll get around to replacing the passenger side pump this fall, I hope.
the prying apparatus is a cotter key removal tool, { I'm sure you know that} the most useful tool ever. I've used it to remove vinyl siding for repair, remove grout in tile flooring, etc.
Just did a fuel pump today that required the tank to come out, wanted to be quick and had the backseat pulled out before I found out it didnt have an access hole. Felt quite stupid
As a bodyshop tech, i will say those that want to pull the box on one of these (if you want to go that route, which isn't a bad idea if nothing is rusty) to do the fuel pump. If the bolts dont want to come out to unbolt the box, it can turn into a real sh*t show! Once one of the nuts spin inside of the box braces, it turns into a pretty long day! If your truck is from the rust belt and the truck is a few years old, it's always a gamble!
Might have a suggestion for you to try but as a minimum for those who don't have the benefit of a hoist. Having worked in GM dealership service departments throughout the 80s and 90s and into 2000s I did this job often and found it far easier and less apt to have complications by unplugging the light harness under the bed, unbolt the filler neck at the fuel door, drop 4 bed bolt at the frame, position two jack stands behind rear bumper and with truck sitting on the ground with 1 person at each wheel well lift the bed up and rearward placing the front of the bed atop the tire and each rear corner on a jack stand. You'll now still have the tank in it's mount and full access to the pump retainer and lines straight from above. Easy peasey. -40 minutes in and out and no awkward fuel sloshing around.
Good suggestion however that will never happen in the rust belt. Not making a video I can do one of these in and out the door in under an hour worst case scenario (cutting straps etc.) You start messing with bed bolts here 100% chance half of them are just gonna spin in the body.
@@SouthMainAuto yeh, saw your reaction just after I hit send. Maybe it'll help the average guy with no hoist and not subject to DOT salts. No one wants to mess with caged nuts in boxed body sections
Very accurate description of Bald Eagles, Eric! They, as well as Osprey, another large fish-eating raptor, do have high pitched squeaky whistles that sound like they should come from a bird less than half their size. There are a lot here in NJ, surprisingly a nest in every county. There are a few nests within 5 miles of my home. They do sound a bit wimpy, but look sooooooo impressive. Even if they weren't a national symbol, they'd still be awesome. Love 'em!
I usually mark them because the way they were there wasn’t a vibration. Sometime putting them back 180° off can CAUSE a vibration so I always mark where they were in relation to each other.
Dana and Spicer both recommend replacing all hardware ie. bolt and straps when preforming any maintenance on U-joints. I have seen many yokes destroyed by them being reused. You are a really good mechanic but there is always something to learn. At Ford we always replaced fuel pumps on pickups by removing the beds. Six bolts, two wire connectors, and the filler neck. Most of the pickups we had at the Fed were stake-beds and had access doors. So I have no experience on GM pump replacement from a lift. We used the lift to raise the bed. Easy job!
in the rust belt, you'll be torching it off and replacing all fasteners, filler neck hardware and maybe the whole filler neck. often the lines are routed so it's hard to impossible to move them enough to unhook or when they break the tank is in the way still. there's much more wiring, bells and whistles on them these days so it would be a huge can of worms. now if it's a full rust-bucket on last leg, then they tend to cut a hole in the bed, fold it back and try to attack that way.
@@throttlebottle5906 yes, we often had PUD’s transferred from up in the rustbelt. I remember one in particular was a composite body Reach truck. It was five years old low mileage from Minneapolis. The body was fine but the chassis was completely covered with rust. We ended up having to retire it. We actually had an aluminum body 1987 PUD Ford that had no rust. Both vehicles were in the 20,000 mile range.
Eagles. We have a mated pair about 1 mile from my home. Very fitting that they found their way to the old SAC Base property that held the barracks (Base is still there, and active with the 127th A-10 Wing). The old Barracks property now has a veterans home on it. PERFECT.
This is what i love to see in your videos, you're in your element here and that element is rust, your familiarity and confidence shows that you really do deal with that stuff day in and day out, so we don't have to 😂 Carry on...
I have found that hanging 19" box fans from Wal-Mart ($20 ea.) at a slight angle towards shop on 4 corners in a 600 square foot shop does wonders! I'm in South Mississippi and we know heat and humidity. About once a year, lower them on a pulley system and blow them out good. Noise is minimal when hung high (10 feet). Also, try to knock a cross window on opposite side of shop to get fresh air stirring in shop. It dropped my shop's temp by 12 degrees.
Eric you are a honest man, you could of easily lied, and charged him much more money. All you had to say is the strap broke and the line snapped, but you didn't I like that Mr O!
GM does have 2 options for fuel pumps, 1 with the level sensor and 1 without the level sensor. The without level sensor was primarily for under warranty repairs for cost reduction. This strategy was changed around model year 2020 to where 2020 and newer vehicles will only have the pump with level sensor available. There may be a few exceptions to the new service strategy.
Did the fuel pump on my 2004 Tacoma. Got an engine hoist and pulled the 6 bolts holding it on. Got to the pump and changed it then did the bed back on. Did the 3 uga-douga torque on the bolts and Bob's your Dad's brother. I do live in SC so I don't deal with the PRNY rust issues.
When I do these jobs I just unbolt the bed and unplug the light harness and lift the bed up!! No drive shafts no straps and doesn’t matter how much gas is in the tank!! Have a good night!!
I have a strip of 1/2" plywood I put on the transmission jack, either bolted in place of the arms or cut to fit around the arms(they don't always clear the tanks). it's about 3' x 18" that makes a nice work platform you can also strap the tank onto, of course don't flip the whole transmission jack over with the top heavy full tank.
Mr. O.: "My neighbors must love me at 6 am." Lawn mower man across the street: "Hold my coffee!"
6am grass is very wet.
This early work was revenge on the lawmower man.
Was exactly my thought. “Eric’s filming… this grass ain’t gonna mow itself”
Your just an asshole at that time off day!
Vermont has maple syrup, but in upstate NY they put Fluid Film on their pancakes.
Ha ha, yum!
They should stop putting it on their pancakes and try spraying their undercarriage instead! 🤣
If I would have a wife and daughter like those I wouldn't put those chemicals even near them! 😅
The region of NY State where he is has excellent maple syrup. I not sure if production is as good as it was due to climate change.
@@leonb2637 I'm not a expert but in other areas the quality of those things are changing or aren't possible. I watched it in France where a wineyard can't make wine anymore because it's too hot, to dry or extreme weather. But I also saw a documentary about "agroforestry" which did improve soil and yields. Trees are great and good so just try it
I had the ole vibration in a 1995 Chevy, changed driveshaft (2 piece carrier bearing), old one was bad, but replacement wasn't any better. So I utubed it and found out it would take the aluminum one piece that goes in the V8 version and I still had a vibration. Cannon fired. I grabbed a rear tranny mount for 12 bucks at the AZ store, took the 5 minutes to install it, and voila... No more vibration. I am not a auto mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express, so that means I am also a tightwad that thinks he can save a buck. Sometimes gettin educated ain't cheap. And why I watch the best. (never hurts to butter up the host). Thanks, Mr O.
It's amazing the knowledge you get from a night's stay at a HIE. That's where I always tried to stay when traveling. Unfortunately it didn't take 😢😢😢
What a great lesson in humility and humor. Thanks for sharing!
You may a need to swap back to the 2 piece drive shaft. They use a 2 piece because the v6 + trany does not sit as far back. When loaded or towing the two piece drive shaft helps maintain proper pinion angle.
Take heart, chances are that a "professional " mechanic would have made the same mistake.
Trans and engine mounts are a major contributor to drive train vibration.
Too bad you had to fire the canon.🤙
I just traveled through your beautiful town the other day on the Southern Tier Expressway. My family was considerably less excited than I was to see Wilberts in person from the highway
Nothing like a quality auto repair and the birds chirping in the background,what no lawnmower man.
He can't fill the mower up with the gas tank removed.
I hear the lawnmower starting around 15 minutes in.
@@robertsmith2956 😆
I worked as a manufacturing engineer at American Axle about 20 years ago which manufactured rear axles for GM vehicles. We used to balance the axle pinions with weld weight(s) and measure and mark the “high” point of runout with a paint dot on the pinion yoke. The “low” point of runout was measured and marked with a paint dot by the driveshaft manufacturer. Driveshafts were balanced with weld weights as well. At the GM vehicle assembly plants, they would align these marks as close to possible during assembly to minimize total runout of both parts. The runouts will “partially” subtract from one another when assembled in this manner. If installed with the marks opposite each other, the total runout will partially add, which could lead to balance issues, even if both parts are balanced in the factory. Its important to understand the difference between runout and balance. Excess runout causes more imbalance, etc. amplified by mass of the rotating parts. Runout is generally worse with yoke designs as these are usually broached and its more difficult to control runout of the yoke relative to the pinion spline. With any turned or cylindrical pinion-to-driveshaft connection (as opposed to a yoke), runout is near zero so driveshaft to axle alignment is less important. It just easier to control runout on a turned part vs a milled or broached part. Even with a yoke, it is possible to have no runout. If there is no runout in the driveshaft and pinion yokes, then its not critical to align them during assembly or mark them during disassembly, etc. In the end, I would imagine that machined runout has improved over the last few decades with the advent of CNC machines, so the need to mark and align is reduced based on that.
Long time viewers were delighted to see Trinity who has grown into a lovely young lady with her mom's smile. congratulations.
Shops around my town would have used all the new parts and hit you with the big bill
You are truly a great person helping people save money
That was an impressive demonstration of your skills and knowledge. I think your dad must have set an excellent example for you. I'm an old guy, now 74 and my back and hands almost ache watching you do those repairs. I used to be able but now, not so much. When your body starts to hurt too much, I think you could easily do a second career teaching the next generation. Cheers!
I appreciate the fact, as I’m sure the client does, that you are willing to reuse what makes sense and not just run the bill up. I’m sure it’d have been easier to just throw all new parts at the job. Reinforces what most of us long time viewers know about your character as a person.
Lawnmower guy is planning his attack @ 6am. lol
The sun rises at 4 am up in New York.
no, but just as soon as he sees cameras recording...
He beat lawnmower man at his own game today with the air chisel.
Best channel on UA-cam. 20 years ago I paid $1500 for a fuel pump in a 2000 Silverado, because I wasn’t confident I could do it. I was told “that’s a lot of work”, today I would do it and more because of this channel! Thanks you!
Anyone else remember the old "Outdoors with Eric O" channel when the kids were, you know, still kids? My goodness time flies and the kids grow up so dang fast!
And great job saving the customer money, lucky for them you were able to re-use those lines.
I just love the way you save the customer money when possible.
thats a sign of a true mechanic...... not a parts changer , shade tree back yard wana be.
That’s a rare thing these days
What's that old expression?
Screw over your customer, make some fast money today
Treat your customer well, keep making money for a lifetime
I respect your desire to save your customer some cash but in a case like this where the removal is a bit of time you should offer customer the choice to replace with the pump removal or add your missed markups to the bill - probably $30 per line - save it for the times when the seals of those rusty old lines leak, which you definitely won't be charging any customer for parts and labor when you fix 'your damage' to his 'perfectly fine' fuel & vent lines.
The neighbors would love him. Just think, he is dedicated. 0600 and 85 degrees. Here 85 at night is not unusual. Great job Mr. Eric! Nice to see Mrs. O and Miss Trinity.
I can not thank you enough for the Fluid Film hint. I use Fluid Film on EVERYTHING. Excellent product. And I miss the mower guy.
It'll definitely liven up your cheeseburgers!
@@Slicerwizard LOL I never thought of eating it.
I put FF on everything under the car.
Awesome on chicken too
Holy cow whatcha been feeding the daughter? 🤣🤣 Holy moly I've been watching South Main Auto for a long time!! They definitely grow up fast!
I was thinking the same thing. Lol.
Your daughter can't deny who her mother is!
Great video, especially the eagle story.
Just remember that Mrs O is a dead shot with the gun and bow and arrow,that's even before protective dad Eric has a chance to load his favourite armament 🤭
It's called growth spurt.
That little lady wasn't even in school when I first found SMA. Now she's almost as tall as Mrs. O! Time flies...
"Im over here eating crow...and I don't even like crow!" CLASSIC
You always tell us just what we need to know during the process, never too little, never unnecessary excess.....well except for the short stories that are always interesting. Keep it up. Best channel on UA-cam. Thank you.
Damn... That pump ring was stuck on there good.
Impressed you managed to get that off, without breaking the tank. Good job
Eight years in the northeast is a nightmare on any vehicle. This one actually looked fairly good for 8 years of road salt and minimal care by the owner.
You're the best alarm clock they've ever had! No want to go back to bed after hearing the air hammer. Rise and shine neighbor!
Wish I had a mechanic like you in my area. Skilled, honest, respectful individual. I enjoy watching you work.
As a resident of Upstate rust belt NY, I can proudly say I’ve changed 3 fuel pumps, two in 1500 silverados, 1 Tahoe
All 2004’s. The rusty crusty Silverado’s I removed bed liners, cut 3 sides of the access hole, bent it back to open it..did the job, bent it back, slid the bed liner back. You’d never know it was done!
The 2004 tahoe we took the back seat out, rolled back the carpet, same thing! Easy enough
Never knew it was done when all put back together! New pumps will out last the trucks!
I have changed 3 fuel pumps of this type. Not having a lift I knew it was going to be a bit*h doing it the regular way. So I cut a hole in the floor under the back seat for access. First time was scary (from doing something irregular) but it worked out fine. Next two times were a breeze as I knew how easy it actually was.
I had trouble removing the filling neck hose on my van I couldn't find a way to get it loose, so I took a fairly thick rag. Got it wet put it in microwave. Got it really hot and got it up there and wrapped it around the rubber tube and let it soak for about 5 minutes then I grabbed the rubber hose and start twisting it and finally got it off. So that trick worked at least once.
enjoyed the flick. I can't believe I spun a wrench for 52 years, now retired, and I never knew about torque fluid or spray. 😄
I'm a DIY guy and I did my '96 C3500 fuel pump about 4 years ago. Of COURSE I'd just filled the thing with 35 gallons ... Nothin' like rolling around on a concrete driveway in 115 degree Az desert sunshine.
It was still easier than pulling the bed - Especially since it's got a service body on it.
As always - You make it look easy!
funny, every truck I've changed a pump in "always" had a freshly filled tank, when it starts running funny they fill right to the top.
Wow Trinity has grown up fast!!
She is well fed by Mrs o and well protected by Eric eagle wings❤️😎🙏
The rust never ends. You are awesome for having the solutions to rusty situations. Things can get ugly real fast. I wish Americans made GM parts with better quality materials. We need more made in USA.
Wow, have I been a follower of this channel this long? Trinity is a big girl now! Another excellent video, Eric.
It's amazing just the wealth of information this channel provides... I've been watching for quite some time and it never ceases to amaze just how much this channel teaches me. It's all the little things... From the tips about remembering to save the fuel level sensor, to demonstrations on how to crack loose the lock ring that's been rusted shut. Just amazing
When you replace the fuel pump turn the key on - key off about 2 times with a slight pause in between to prime the fuel rail. That way you do not have to crank so long. Love your video's
I just love how Eric takes care of the customer. A lost of shops would just go with the estimated amount and really, how would the customer know any different? I wouldn't. I'd be happy to have my truck back and get ready for the next time it needs service. Clearly Mr. O has a conscience and lives right!
I miss the days when car engines used mechanical pumps mounted to the side of the engine block. Changing in-tank pumps are a big pain by comparison.
Those were the days. I remember changing my fuel pump on my 1976 Impala 350ci on the side of the road when it sprung a leak. A small tool kit in the trunk was all that was needed.
I agree, even having to deal with the push rod that drove it.
A friend of mine told me that I should just pull off the box. I got all the bolts off a few friends helped me slide it back. Easy peezy! No strap work. Sure beats dropping the tank!
Direct injection engines have both…an electric lift pump in the tank, and a mechanic high pressure pump driven by the engine cam.
@@tylermacconnell217 More stuff to break on a car. Juet what I want said no one ever.
Love the smell of Eagle Feathers. Mr. O, the articulate of Freedom!
You have to be living right Eric, that had to be one of the smoothest fuel pump jobs I've ever seen! Also, liked your little "screwdriver" you used to get the "balanced" drive shaft out lol. Thanks for the update video, have a great weekend!
Edit: Turn the fan on, we can deal with a little noise
No it's loud lol
@@SouthMainAuto Try one of those Dyson fans, they're nearly silent and move a lot of air. It creates like a vortex ring. Yes it's nowhere near as good as your shop fan, but it's like 100dB quieter.
Maybe Eric should ask the lawn mower guy if he can borrow the engine from him and improve the fan's power. A petrol powered fan, that is wasteful 🤣🤣
I did the angle grinder method on my 2004 Avalanche last month. 260k miles later and the factory pump finally gave out. I ended up using some 4" wide rubber roofing tape to seal the hole when I was done and it worked perfectly. Took me about 2 hours smashing the ring to get it off though. And had to buy 2 new quick disconnect connectors and press them on. Lot of lessons learned. Lol
Need to get this channel to at least 1M subscribers! So much good information.
I just changed my fuel pump in my 30 year old chev van . Years ago I got tired of those fuel lines breaking or hard to get of so I changed them all to AN lines and fitting. Now no trouble with rusted lines
"Know what I mean Vern?" Just a pumpin and a pumpin! I miss Ernest.
I’m glad someone else picked up on that! Guess I’m not the only old fart here
Remember when everybody else was older? I can sorta. Do all the tv commercials (except Progressive) seem so stupid now? I guess we were morons too
I've got one word for you Vernon, one word: used cars.
I'm a DIY in the rust belt in Wisconsin. That fuel pump ring is always a total nightmare. I'm always so worried using air tools due to sparks. Was getting nervous for Eric there. I think the ring takes longer that the whole job. Great video as always.
Thank you for doing most of the torquing off camera so that you don’t make these videos too long. We really appreciate that!
I had to replace the fuel pump on my '03 Avalanche a few years back. In addition to the floor jack, I used two ratchet straps to ensure the tank didn't tilt out of control and fall. Definitely helps set the mind at ease when doing the job solo. Oh, and I'm happy you were able to see the customer money by reusing a lot of the parts. My plastic lines were toast.
Done this job a few times. The easiest way I have found to do the fuel pump change, is loosen the bed bolts on the passenger side enough so when you remove the driver's side bed bolts you can tilt that side up enough so you can get at the pump. Make sure you place some type of support securely between the frame and the tilted bed. I live in southeastern Michigan, so salt is a problem here too. The truck I worked on was a 2000 Silverado and the time of the fuel pump replacement was 2017. The top of the tank was not nearly as bad of shape as the one in this video. The job was not all that bad to do. Just make sure you buy a quality fuel pump, you don't want to do this job again because of a cheap fuel pump that fails prematurely. Ask me how I know.
I did that on the last fuel pump job I did. I felt like a pretzel getting my body in there to get the pump out. Plus I had the bed hanging over me, hoping I would not get stuck. I personally will not do it that way again. Drop the tank would be my first choice with the setup I have.
I DIY'd the same job on my 2001 Ford Explorer XLS about 5 years ago using a 3 ton floor jack and 4 jack stands. Did the job for $136. That included the fuel pump, pressure sensor and fuel filter.
I completely love these videos! Eric you are the man, such a great mechanic whether you believe it or not because I seriously see so many other Mechanics just not care and would be willing to care less about saving a penny for the customer. Awesome job my friend, i love your videos and your literally the only channel I ever joined and became a member of, I find it so much more worth it to spend some money a month to support a great local NY mechanic!
I think lawnmower man has his own you tube channel and films daily demonstrating all his different patterns and techniques.
I really appreciate your willingness to save the customer money. A lot of shops would just install the new parts.
When the fuel pump in my Chevy Silverado went bad I had no lift access to I cut an access hole through the truck bed directly over the fuel pump. After that, it was relatively easy to pull the old and install the new pump. A week later, when the replacement pump went bad, I had a new one installed in about 30 minutes.
My neighbor's love me too. Either early in the morning or late at night. Air compressor, hammers, etc. it's a part of life. Surprised that everything was reusable. Great video
I have noisy neighbors, but can’t complain because I have four dogs.
No noise abatement laws?
10 pm neighbors call the County Sheriffs out to shut you down!!
In the olden days when I lived in the rust belt I did that kind of stuff laying on my back in gravel driveways. Course fuel pumps did not then hang out inside the gas tank so the hole in the tank was smaller. Salt crap would eat its way down through the top of the tank and up from the bottom, especially on trucks with steel impact guards below the gas tank. There was a business in Hartville Ohio where you could take your tank to be cleaned and coated with fibreglass for less than half the price of a new tank. I did that a few times, problem was the tank was a bit larger when it came back and you had to find a safe place to put a grounding screw in so your gas gauge would work. Enjoy watching your work and trips to the junk yard. I recall we used to take beer and make a day of it.
Your videos are extra entertaining because you spare us all the extremely rigorous and always necessary but unexciting to watch torquing to spec.
great job . i always use a ratchet strap to hold the tank to the trans, jack when I'm working alone.
Great job saving your customer a few bucks. It’s builds trust.
I have a 2015 version of this truck. Thank you Eric for posting this video. I learned something about my truck. Beautiful family Mr. O. You're a good man.
I've been watching you for a long time now, and your knowledge combined with humor keeps me coming back. Lawnmower man is missed in the videos 😂
Woke this morning to my window unit peeing on the floor and the yardman cutting grass at 6:30 am. So I used your video to drown out the yardman and the woes of having water on my wood floor. Not the first fuel pump you've done but it is so nice to see someone get to do one on a rack. Never had that luxury and at 68 I'm done with fuel pumps in tanks and tying shop rags around my wrists. lol
I show up to learn, and stay for the ramblin’ commentary!
Honest mechanics like you are hard to find in my neck of the woods. Nice work!
Someone who works at GM needs to watch this video.
They don't care
@@draidt None of them do. Toyota was well aware of a pile of problems with the 2nd gen Tundra and did nothing to fix any of those issues when they designed and released the 3rd gen Tacoma. Heck, I remember when I had a 1st gen Tacoma those trucks had the absolute worst rust rot issues to the point Toyota was close to being forced to issue a recall. They did nothing then, did nothing to fix it with the 2nd gen, and now early model years of the 3rd gen have been added to the TSB for frame rust. They don't give a flying f.
I recently did the same job on my 2005 RAM. The steel pump retainer ring removal was the big part of the job. Just got BIG NASTY recently but did not use it to remove the ring. I found that heavy application of PB Blaster on the ring and hammering a 4 LB mallet with a brass drift got it to come loose. As Eric said, gots to be very careful not to damage the tank. A shop vac helps a lot to keep the pump area clean. Expect tons of rust debris!😊
We love you Eric,and we love Mrrs o,and love the your cat. ✝️🇬🇧🐾
I have been using HUGE Channel Locks on the lock rings for years. It really works well. A second smaller pair simultaneously can also be helpful.
My understanding as to why mark the driveshaft was to ensure it goes back in the same orientation as it was. Due to manufacturing tollarances there could be slight runout of the flange and or shaft. If there was no vibration before disassembly there should be none afterwards. At the dealership I worked at for 20 years I had a vibration after driveshaft removal for a pinion seal. Reindexed the the driveshaft 180 degrees and problem solved. Yes I agree they are all balanced individually and it should not matter. Just my opinion...
Interesting. Thanks Phillip 👍🏼
there's always a bit of runout, some could be indexed for the least runout. but the stuff also wears in and the smallest amount of change can cause runout and vibration.
plus if it's marked you can point and say it was put back exactly the same and not your problem. just like the guy blaming rusted rims on his bad shop air! 🙄
@@SouthMainAuto I asked one of my automotive instructors about this and he said that it is possible to do an on-vehicle driveshaft/driveline balance (WeberAuto has a 2-part series on it) and if that has been done then the orientation does matter. He also added similar as above i.e if there wasn't a vibration before just go ahead and put it back the way it was to avoid any potential tail chasing afterwards.
love the work you do! 2001 3500HD with the big 8.1L, just did a rear tank repair, whole fuel sender was rotted and gone, lock ring and tabs gone, the tank filled to the brim with water.... fun times.
Nice to see you master at his work. You absolutely know your business man
Just to let you know, when I am scrolling down my list of new subscribed videos and I see South Main Auto I stop right there and it's a first watch for me. Love the humor and the education.
You broke the #1 mechanic rule. Always remove the part from the box and inspect before removing old part. Been burned too many times with wrong or broken parts.
I don't know if this is the first rule but maybe it's still a good idea but what can be possible go wrong?
@@imtheeastgermanguy5431 Waste your time. Bring vehicle in, remove fuel tank, open box and find new pump wrong or broken. Now you wait for another part or push the truck out side. Too much time spent that I won't get paid for.
Man dadwho is not with us now always told us "success or failure is the attention to small details" Our two boys are mechanics and a body man and the both of them work just like you. As a parent makes you feel proud when you hear people tell us how they treated them.
For those of us who do not have a lift I have done several just by unbolting the bed and raising it up and shifting it back enough to change the pump. I keep a pair of Giant 2x6 saw horses just for removing beds.
That's a great tip. If all else fails you can do what my customer did. Remove the hard plastic bed liner and sawsall your own access hole. Bend it back in place when you're done and reinsert the bed liner. Its a rough work truck. We're a half hr from Eric and down the road from a massive salt mine. Gotta love the rust and rot.
I don't recommend that way but if you have no choice I guess you gotta do what you gotta do.
Did that to change my pressure sensor. Used engine hoist to lift it.
That's the easiest way for me. I don't have a lift. Just a pad with a canopy. Keep da sun off my bean
I had to put new ends on most of my gas lines, as my 2007 salt-belt Yukon had severe rust-jacking inside the connectors. I made a tool out of a wood clamp and they pressed on quite easily. Saved a lot as they were just a few dollars each.
I had only a couple of jack stands, and a long 2x4 to lever it back in place, but I drained the tank to enable it.
Your neighbor loves all the noise you make at 6am so much, he decides to mow his lawn 12-15 times a week to make sure it looks good for you. 🤣
Yeah, there was a video a while ago where the neighbor WASN'T mowing, and I thought maybe one of the O's should go check on the guy, make sure he's ok.
I have a similar neighbor as well but he is also a moron so I don't like him
Not only are you a dam good mechanic, your a great teacher and funny as heck!
Your fearless Governor was talking about the heat this week. She's a lovely manly.
What I liked about my '76, 1/2 ton, 4x4 short wheel base Chevy, is it had dual tanks, and an easily accessible three way solenoid valve under the driver on the frame. If the solenoid valve failed you could just loosen the hose clamps and change the hoses to get home. My '87 3/4 ton 4x4 had dual tanks also. One time a child's toe moved the fuel tank switch to the center of the two positions as I was going up a hill. It took about 2 seconds to realize what had happened. When I had that 1976 is when I realized that gasoline will melt an asphalt street in a spot.
hahaha.... yep, and those 2 vehicles I still own/have on this S.E. Kansas farm. I'll get around to replacing the passenger side pump this fall, I hope.
I'm surprised "lawn mower man" didn't come out and start his day lol
the prying apparatus is a cotter key removal tool, { I'm sure you know that} the most useful tool ever. I've used it to remove vinyl siding for repair, remove grout in tile flooring, etc.
Just did a fuel pump today that required the tank to come out, wanted to be quick and had the backseat pulled out before I found out it didnt have an access hole. Felt quite stupid
As a bodyshop tech, i will say those that want to pull the box on one of these (if you want to go that route, which isn't a bad idea if nothing is rusty) to do the fuel pump. If the bolts dont want to come out to unbolt the box, it can turn into a real sh*t show! Once one of the nuts spin inside of the box braces, it turns into a pretty long day! If your truck is from the rust belt and the truck is a few years old, it's always a gamble!
Might have a suggestion for you to try but as a minimum for those who don't have the benefit of a hoist. Having worked in GM dealership service departments throughout the 80s and 90s and into 2000s I did this job often and found it far easier and less apt to have complications by unplugging the light harness under the bed, unbolt the filler neck at the fuel door, drop 4 bed bolt at the frame, position two jack stands behind rear bumper and with truck sitting on the ground with 1 person at each wheel well lift the bed up and rearward placing the front of the bed atop the tire and each rear corner on a jack stand. You'll now still have the tank in it's mount and full access to the pump retainer and lines straight from above. Easy peasey. -40 minutes in and out and no awkward fuel sloshing around.
Good suggestion however that will never happen in the rust belt. Not making a video I can do one of these in and out the door in under an hour worst case scenario (cutting straps etc.) You start messing with bed bolts here 100% chance half of them are just gonna spin in the body.
@@SouthMainAuto yeh, saw your reaction just after I hit send. Maybe it'll help the average guy with no hoist and not subject to DOT salts. No one wants to mess with caged nuts in boxed body sections
No one wants to mess with caged nuts
@@rickedwards599 GM should have put a removable plate in the truck bed.
@@frankfox4366 It's not hard to make one. Did it on a cargo van. The motivation was that the tank was full and it was a driveway job.
Very accurate description of Bald Eagles, Eric! They, as well as Osprey, another large fish-eating raptor, do have high pitched squeaky whistles that sound like they should come from a bird less than half their size. There are a lot here in NJ, surprisingly a nest in every county. There are a few nests within 5 miles of my home. They do sound a bit wimpy, but look sooooooo impressive. Even if they weren't a national symbol, they'd still be awesome. Love 'em!
I usually mark them because the way they were there wasn’t a vibration. Sometime putting them back 180° off can CAUSE a vibration so I always mark where they were in relation to each other.
"Because". That was the best explanation I was given to such things. If no one knows why and things work... "because".
The Cosby sauce. Cracks me up every time!
If you are a diesel tech in the north, it is go power juice in a can!
I once was using my air hammer on a Sunday at 0600. Suddenly a cop car drove up my driveway and told me to wait until 0800 to make noise.
Dana and Spicer both recommend replacing all hardware ie. bolt and straps when preforming any maintenance on U-joints. I have seen many yokes destroyed by them being reused. You are a really good mechanic but there is always something to learn. At Ford we always replaced fuel pumps on pickups by removing the beds. Six bolts, two wire connectors, and the filler neck. Most of the pickups we had at the Fed were stake-beds and had access doors. So I have no experience on GM pump replacement from a lift. We used the lift to raise the bed. Easy job!
in the rust belt, you'll be torching it off and replacing all fasteners, filler neck hardware and maybe the whole filler neck. often the lines are routed so it's hard to impossible to move them enough to unhook or when they break the tank is in the way still.
there's much more wiring, bells and whistles on them these days so it would be a huge can of worms. now if it's a full rust-bucket on last leg, then they tend to cut a hole in the bed, fold it back and try to attack that way.
@@throttlebottle5906 yes, we often had PUD’s transferred from up in the rustbelt. I remember one in particular was a composite body Reach truck. It was five years old low mileage from Minneapolis. The body was fine but the chassis was completely covered with rust. We ended up having to retire it. We actually had an aluminum body 1987 PUD Ford that had no rust. Both vehicles were in the 20,000 mile range.
Eagles. We have a mated pair about 1 mile from my home. Very fitting that they found their way to the old SAC Base property that held the barracks (Base is still there, and active with the 127th A-10 Wing). The old Barracks property now has a veterans home on it. PERFECT.
It's really nice to hear your commentary early in the morning, before your meds have kicked in ! 🤣🤣
This is what i love to see in your videos, you're in your element here and that element is rust, your familiarity and confidence shows that you really do deal with that stuff day in and day out, so we don't have to 😂 Carry on...
13:28 - Take that Lawnmower Man!
I have found that hanging 19" box fans from Wal-Mart ($20 ea.) at a slight angle towards shop on 4 corners in a 600 square foot shop does wonders! I'm in South Mississippi and we know heat and humidity. About once a year, lower them on a pulley system and blow them out good. Noise is minimal when hung high (10 feet). Also, try to knock a cross window on opposite side of shop to get fresh air stirring in shop. It dropped my shop's temp by 12 degrees.
Vanessa is working the banker’s hour! I’m jealous!
Its mrs o to you bucko. You dont know misses o
Working just 6 hours a day is also enough, just imagine how much more time you have to go out, doing hobbies or buying stuff
but she still has "mommy hours", those are 24/7 until kids leave the nest.
@@throttlebottle5906 women and mothers should have a special status as employees
Eric you are a honest man, you could of easily lied, and charged him much more money. All you had to say is the strap broke and the line snapped, but you didn't I like that Mr O!
Air hammers @ 6am is how lawn mower guy is created
GM does have 2 options for fuel pumps, 1 with the level sensor and 1 without the level sensor. The without level sensor was primarily for under warranty repairs for cost reduction. This strategy was changed around model year 2020 to where 2020 and newer vehicles will only have the pump with level sensor available. There may be a few exceptions to the new service strategy.
Just for fun i have priced up two cans of fluid film in the UK and it comes in at just under $50 . That's expensive. Gas /petrol is $8.35 per gallon.
I priced some De-oxit that Ivan always uses and it's $50 a spray can here in Australia.
Did the fuel pump on my 2004 Tacoma. Got an engine hoist and pulled the 6 bolts holding it on. Got to the pump and changed it then did the bed back on. Did the 3 uga-douga torque on the bolts and Bob's your Dad's brother. I do live in SC so I don't deal with the PRNY rust issues.
When I do these jobs I just unbolt the bed and unplug the light harness and lift the bed up!! No drive shafts no straps and doesn’t matter how much gas is in the tank!! Have a good night!!
That’s great when the bolts come out! They didn’t on my Sonoma, and I wasn’t the first one there……
I was right up there 50 + years ago Watkins Glenn, summer jam
13:34 payback to the lawnmower guy who seems to run his mower all the time :)
I have a strip of 1/2" plywood I put on the transmission jack, either bolted in place of the arms or cut to fit around the arms(they don't always clear the tanks). it's about 3' x 18" that makes a nice work platform you can also strap the tank onto, of course don't flip the whole transmission jack over with the top heavy full tank.