Building a Ironton 5' x 8' Utility Trailer Kit from Northern Tool.
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- In this video we assemble the Ironton 5' x 8' Utility Trailer from Northern Tool.
The first half is the full assembly process. The second half follows with the installation of decking and sides at 11:51.
Below is a list of links to the trailer, materials and tools used in this video.
Ironton 5' x 8' Trailer: www.jdoqocy.com/click-1003270...
Trailer jack:
Tail gate latches:
Tie down rings:
Corner braces:
14ea. 1" x 6" x 8' decking:
2ea. 1" x 6" x 10' decking:
5ea. 2" x 4" x 8" pressure teated:
2.5" deck screws:
32 1/4" carnage bults:
32 1/4" nuts:
32 1/4" flat washers:
Tools: www.dpbolvw.net/click-1003270...
20v 3/8" ratchet driver: amzn.to/3jCzPho
Orbital sander: amzn.to/2MVh0tQ
10" Miter saw: amzn.to/3pdgC6S
Circular saw: amzn.to/3aakstc
Wen 9" band saw: amzn.to/2Ndl08O
Socket set: amzn.to/3d2PLIz
Also please check out my Merchandise Store: diy-gene.creator-spring.com/
This video and description contain affiliate links, which means if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this with absolutely no additional cost to you! Thank you for your support! - Навчання та стиль
I just saw that as of today, 11/27/21 if you spend over $500 you get a $100 gift card. That is how I bought this trailer kit. I don't know how long it lasts. but visit on-line at www.northerntool.com/. 👍
Its $700 now unfortunately
@@letsgomicroliving_1993_ I would definitely wait for a sale.
Hey gene, think I could bolt a lunette ring on for a pintle hitch instead of the 2" coupler?? Thanks!! 😊
@@foxmulder7616, I bet you could!
Built mine and the Arizona MVD said they couldn't register it and give me plates because the MCO (title) wasn't signed on the back by the dealer, so I had to call northern tool and get them to send me an "original bill of sale" signed by them.. smh hopefully wherever they send me is an "original bill of sale" and the MVD accepts it,,!! The trailer manufacturer is some Chinese factory, the front of the title was signed by some Chinese person but not the back dealer section. Smh lol
"I've been running it without oil for two years and it still won't die!"
THIS made me subscribe.
Thanks so much for watching.
I would have put the carriage bolts in with the heads in the trailer and the nut on the outside. Not as pretty to look at but it’ll give you a flush surface on the inside to slide stuff up against. So you’re less likely to damage it.
Also having the sides tighter together with less of a gap. This way if you need to haul sand or a loose material, you won’t lose as much.
Nice build overall.
Those are excellent suggestions. Thanks so much for watching.
I look forward to seeing your video showing a better way of doing things...
great video! very thorough and clear. This convinced me it is the better choice over the HF folding type.A trailer definitely has advantages over a pick up.
I looked at both too. I hope this helped. Thanks for watching.
Nice. Very nice. Incredible job! This video definitely boosted their trailer sales. Northern Tool should mail you a check for the cost of your trailer.
I would be good with that. LOL! Thanks so much for watching.
This was great!! I haven't been able to find a trailer I like that is affordable, but this I can do. You are a good instructor. Thanks!
Thank you. I was the same way about finding a trailer that was affordable and still had what I wanted. It has held up great and I use it a lot. Thanks again for watching.
This is a good and informative video. Thank you for posting. I would like to mention about the trailer axels. After putting the hubs on the spindles, install the washer and then the castle nut (as you called it a slot not). You then tighten the castle nut all the way down to preload the bearings. Then back the castle nut off to where the tire will freely spin. Install the carter pin, cap and call it done. With the wire connectors, I couldn't hear weather you said the are or are not weather proof. They are not. I would have use butt connectors with a 3:1 heat shrink which has adhesive on the inside. This will help make it more water proof/resistance. All in all, it works for you and you did a good job showcasing the trailer build.
I enjoyed this video and your build. For my use, I would have made the following modifications. 1) reverse the carriage bolts so the rounded heads are on the inside. Then cap the outside of the bolts with Acorn round head nuts. That eliminates the studs of the bolts sticking out inside the cargo area and snagging the cargo or your shins and hands. Sharp edges are a no no. 2) I would have run a white ground wire to all the lights. I have experienced too many issues with bad grounds on trailers. For me, well worth the extra cost and effort. 3) grommets on all wire penetrations through the metal holes in the frame. Chaffing wire insulation is definitely a thing. Been there, done that, don’t want to go there again.
I like your use of deck boards instead of plywood. It just looks better and I just like it more than plywood.
Those are all excellent suggestions. I really like the idea of putting the carriage bolts to the inside. I have already scraped myself on one.
Same here with the lighting suggestions - that nice powdercoating breeds grounding issues. Same with the blue connectors - expect to start having corrosion issues with them, as they damage the wire and are not fully waterproof. I never have issues after I went to running a dedicated ground to every light and using shrink connectors.
I just bought the aluminum version of this trailer today and should receive it in a week or so. You did a fine job on your bed and stakes. I also think it was a great idea to run the wiring through the wood beams. Thank you for the video.
Wish I'd bought the NT Aluminum 5x8 instead of the HF Steel 4x8 - it would have been MUCH more useful, and better looking, too !!
@@checkyoursix5623 After I assembled the trailer I priced out the lumber for the sides and floor and it was over $200.00! Now 4 months later the prices have finally dropped so i can get the decking and sides and finally finish the trailer.
Thanks for this great video! This is really well done. I'm on the lookout for a small, cheap trailer!
I especially like how you built the deck. 2x boards are a huge improvement over plywood.
I have so fate been really happy with it. Thanks so much for watching.
Thank you for showing the process I watched many other videos and they didn't give this much detail
Thank you so much. I hope it helps. Thanks again for watching.
aaww... that van must really love you for just not willing to die, lol. Learning from your instructions I can build this trailer in 3D.
Beautiful family, good sense of humor, I just enjoy watching your videos, thank you for taking the time to make them. God bless and hugs from Belgium.
Thanks Daniella, I feel I am truly blessed. And I so enjoy making these videos. Thanks again for watching and for your participation!
Great build and upgrades!
Well done!
Thank you. I have really used this trailer and it is working great. Thanks again for watching.
BTW. Your deck plan was awesome. I'm stealing that for mine. Thank you!
It is holding up nicely. Thanks again for watching.
That trailer must be worth a lot of money now with the cost of wood. It was a good video and love how you made everything work. 👍👍👍
Thank you, Even at the time I spent almost twice what I budgeted for wood. But it was still a good investment. Thanks so much for watching.
That was a awsome build you make it look easy but I know it was alot of work. Very nice looking trailer 👍👍
It was a lot of work, but I loved every minute of it. I use it so much. Thanks so much for watching.
Great Job, Gene! You thought of everything.
Thanks so much for watching.
Well done video👍. You brought up some things I didn't think of. Thank you Sir 🍺
Hi Cap, I hope it help folks skip over some of the things I had to do twice. But it’s a great little trailer and I think I’m going to get a lot of use out of it. Thanks for watching.
Looks VERY professional!
Thanks! And thanks for watching.
2 years later and the manual is still not updated. You solved some of my problems, thanks!
I hoped it helped. You would think they would update the instructions at least. Thanks for watching.
I have watched this video of yours at least a half dozen times. Great video!
Bought one and used your video as a reference. Cost me $549 with a $100 gift card as a reward. Used the gift card and got the loading ramp on sale for $79.99 and still had $$ leftover. 5x8 really is a great size!
One of the grease fittings broke when I tried to add lubricant. Called Northern Tool customer service and a few days later, got a new pair of grease fittings. Customer service vas very nice and helpful which makes this trailer just that much better of a purchase. Bravo Northern Tool!!!
I'm glad the video came in handy, because the instructions are not up to much. But mine has been a great trailer. Thanks for watching.
Hello, I haven't read any of the previous comments, but when you can even though you purchased pressure treated lumber, please please rano paint the underside of your trailer and wood, as well. This will save your purchase. As well as putting wire sheeting over them, as well as painting your leaf springs. You have a very good trailer!!! These are the things that I would of should of done to keep my trailer protected. 😢😢😢 . Have a very blessed life you and yours!!! Merry Christmas and a very happy new year 🎉
Thank you so much for the wonderful suggestions. Very good advice for the viewers. Thanks for watching and you and your family have a wonderful Christmas. God bless.
The tailgate latches you installed have a tendency to wiggle loose when you're going down the road, leading to a lost tailgate. I'd recommend replacing them with something that securely locks, or adding a swivel catch that will secure the handle. When it's time to rewire the lights, get some good heavy duty jacketed wire and use heat shrink connectors. The wire that comes with those cheap light kits is usually almost as bad as the scotchlocks that they provide. Make your splices in protected locations if you can and protect any of the exposed wire with split loom or tape to keep the sun off of it. Make sure you have a good ground coming from the tow vehicle to the trailer. If the jack breaks, replace it with one with a foot instead of a wheel.
Replacement of jack wheel: speaking from a woman's, I'm much more prefer a wheel on my swing. When the trailer is loaded, the wheel allows me to move my trailer around manually with ease. It also saves stress and strain on my body.
Great tutorial. Your video is definitely a better guide than the instructions, and mine also came with locknuts and a double-middle instead of the large channel.
It’s a great little trailer, but Northern really needs to update the instructions and parts list. Thanks for watching.
Thanks! My son left the kit at my house and I started to assemble. Instructions were absolutely worthless. Watched your video and I'm sure it will save me a bunch of time. He intends to build a teardrop camper on the trailer.
That’s fantastic. I would love to see how it turns out. Thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene The teardrop turned out great. Wish I could attach a photo.
@@virgilwhetsel5289, I would love to see it! Here is my email gcavasos@gmail.com if you would like to send a pic. I would love to build something like that.
I just bought this trailer. I too was confused by the center brace and the tongue attachment points that varied from the instructions. I attached them the same way you did although I wished I had seen your video prior to this confusion.. thanks for the video. Great job!
Also NT now just offers a $50.00 card instead of $100.
Hi David, They really need to update the instructions. Thanks so much for watching.
Thanks Gene, great vid.
You did a beautiful and very thorough job on this! You should make kits for these and make some money off of them. It might be tedious, but seriously, very impressive.
Thanks for the great suggestion. And thanks so much for watching!
Thanks, by far the best video out there on the Ironton 5 x 8. I really like your 2 x 4 idea under the decking. Although, I would have made them flush with the top of steel cross channels with the same floating floor like you did. I plan to weld the upper cross channel bolts into ends of 1" sq. tubing for my side panel upright posts, then weld a 1.25" top rail on and something along the bottom and 1/8" HDPE plastic sheets to save weight.
Thank you. Those are some really good ideas. My trailer is holding up great and I never regret buying it. Thanks again for watching.
@@DIYGene Thanks Gene, good to hear it is holding up well.
great build. well done
Thanks so much. I am using the heck out of it. Thanks so much for watching.
Looks awesome, great job!
Thanks so much for watching.
Great video. My only suggestion would be to put the heads of the carriage bolts to the inside of the bed so there would be a smooth edge for not scratching up any cargo that is hauled.
That is an excellent suggestion. Thanks for watching.
Looks far better than the harbor freight trailer! Thanks buddy for video.
I looked at both before settling on the Northern. The big differences I found are the axle is a full square tube VS a U tube with spindles welded on the ends. The fenders a better and the bed is 5’ wide VS 4’. It has been a great little trailer. The only negative is the instructions are bad and the wire connectors are not waterproof. Thanks for watching.
I agree, the instructions weren't even good for house breaking a puppy but your video was excellent. Thanks.
It was still worth it. I’m really happy with the trailer. Thanks so much for watching.
Great job, my only comment would be. The wiring should be soldered and covered with weather/water tight heat shrink tubing. The provided connectors are not weather tight, and are really meant for temporary internal use. In no way your fault, they should have put better connections in the kit, or explained in the directions...
That is good to know and thanks for putting this out there. I figured they would provide water proof connectors. Thanks again for watching.
Also wherever the wiring comes into contact with the fram there needs to be some protect with a small grommet. That will help to make sure the sheathing on the wire isn't scraped off resultng in a short and the lights not working.
Fantastic. Well done.
Thanks so much for watching!
Awesome job amigo!! Thank you
Thank you! I used it today and is still holding strong. Thanks again for watching.
Great Job!!
Thank you. This trailer has been such a great thing to have. Thanks again for watching.
Check the wheel grease as well as the axle shaft for rust.
Good advice. Thanks for watching.
Great job!
Thank you so much for watching.
A job well done !
Thanks so much. And thanks for watching.
Cool trailer. I've been thinking of doing the same. Btw...your Jeep reminds me of one I had, years ago. I had the same exact wheels on mine!👍😎
Twins Sons Of Different Mothers. I love that old Jeep. Thanks for watching Dart man!
@@DIYGene Lol...yep!🙂
Gene you did very well just a thing. I would change .... 1. On the side boards and end boards. I would have reversed them and put the heads on the inside and threads on the outside. My late Father and I built several utility trailers and all had the heads on the inside. His reason was the threads would possibly scrach something you were hauling.
Excellent point! And I ended up doing that exact thing, but only after tearing a whole in a friend’s couch LOL. I also would recommend using water tight wire connectors. The ones it came with are not. Thanks so much for sharing and for watching.
Use caution with the tongue jack. If the trailer has a lot of weight in it those A frame rails will twist a lot.
I replaced the center cross brace with a cut up 4x4 and bolted my jack to that so it's inline with the center of the trailer.... works much better with weight.
That’s a great suggestion. Thanks so much and thanks for watching.
Beautiful!
Thank you so much. It has been a really good little trailer. Thanks again for watching.
thank you! helped me a lot
Glad it helped. Thanks so much for watching.
Nice project Gene. If a lack of engine oil isn't doing the job, start adding oil to the transmission, or antifreeze to the brakes, whatever works.. LOL
I was thinking maybe parking it in a high crime area and leave the key in it. Thank for watching.
Good job
That really came along
Thanks for watching.
Put the heads of the carriage bolts for the upright fence boards on the INSIDE of the trailer, not the other way around. Now you have bolt heads that will chaff and are in the way.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks for sharing.
When connecting the tongue to the frame a spacer inside the channel with a longer bolt running through both sides of the channel would be nice. There are holes on both sides of the channel. Some sch 40 galvanized pipe would work for spacers.
That is a great suggestion. Thanks for sharing.
i'm about 1/2 way through so far great video. do yourself a favor and buy a good impact driver. they aren't quite as powerful as an impact wrench but they are the handiest tool you'll ever own.
finished the video and its a great video! thank you for making it and sharing!
Thanks so much! It has been a great trailer. And the cordless impact wrench is a must. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene i know. i have 2! home depot puts the ryobi 3 speed p261 kit on sale about 3 times a year for $99. i got one for myself and one for my dad. i snagged a hart single speed 3/8 at walmart on clearance for $55 (tool only) but the one i use the most is my dewalt atomic impact driver which was $99 for the kit.
Good vid. I just gave away my trailor I made from an old pop-up camper and need something smaller. Aka that will fit through my gate into my back yard. This would be perfect. Would just make the deck into a dump trailor insted add a hing or 2 and a tall support upnfront and a winch hand crank or eletric
That’s a great idea. You might check out Northern’s web site because they were offering $100 gift cards with the purchase. That what I did. But I don’t know how long that deal lasts. Thanks for watching.
Hindsight being so good, I might put the carriage bolts for the side rails from the inside, and countersink for the washer and nut in the 2x4 on the outside.
Great job though! I have a HF trailer, and it seems I'm always thinking of ways to do it better. Never satisfied.....
That’s an excellent idea. I think I will do just that. Thanks so much for watching.
i pray by this time you've cleaned and replaced that shipping grease from the axles, but it's a good looking trailer
Maybe I missed it but what did you do with running lights I only could find you wiring tail lights?
I had to stop laughing 😂 before I could watch the rest of the video; really no oil for 2 years your wife didn’t catch on yet😀 2 thumbs up 👍
I’m thinking about draining the transmission next🤪. Thanks for watching.
did that with a 98 geo prizm (toyota), it went a couple more years before the seals completely failed. Was on it's way out anyways, was an interesting experiment.
@@nmatthew7469, LOL. I’m afraid it may be a while before the old Honda Dies. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Best close up look at this trailer. Thinking of doing a teardrop trailer on it. How does it do at higher highway speeds? Thanks!
I have seen a few teardrop trailers built with this trailer. It can handle the speed but I have noticed they usually go to a larger tire and wheel. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
I bought this. I don't even know if it came with all those parts. I'll have to check.
Nice video thanks for posting, that trailer looks very similar to the Harbour Freight Super Duty 5x8 that I've seen on YT, however, judging from the look of those fenders it would appear to have somewhat better specs. A friendly word of advice, those blue snap together electrical connectors ( known as Scotchloks here in the UK) are most definitely NOT waterproof, after a while they will begin to fail when exposed to rain, road dirt, winter roadsalt etc and are not suitable for an outdoor automotive application. I learned this the hard way. Regards from Wales UK.
That’s good to know. I may put some heat shrink over them. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene so why did you say they were waterproof?
It’s my understanding that they are. Why would the manufacturer provide connectors that that are not considered waterproof. But if you can improve on it, why not? Thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene They never said they were,......many aren't. Don't assume.
@@brentbradley6711 Thanks so much for adding these amazingly insightful comments Brent! Have you been doing your insecure internet troll act for long? Your really good at it!
Good video. I like the decking. The wire connectors that crimp the wires are junk. They are not waterproof and are very susceptible to corrosion. Using butt connectors or soldering and covering the joints with heat shrink tubing is the best method.
I agree. Good advice. The bad thing is the trailer come with those crappy connectors. Thanks so much for watching.
AMAZING
I have really used this trailer. It’s holding up nice. Thanks so much for watching.
Great video . I like the use of the 2”x6” for the deck boards . Maybe it was the camera angle, but it looks like there was no spacing between the boards. Unless you have a great water sealer on them they will swell up when they get wet. Still great job
I used a couple of 16 penny nails through a scrap board to make a spacer between the deck boards. It gives me about a 3/16” space between them. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene Awesome video! I liked how you spaced the deck boards. However, in my advanced years, I'd suggest screwing only one screw, not two, for a few months, depending upon the moisture content in the wood. I've seen new deck boards pressed against each other with no spacing, screwed on both sides. Then months later STILL end up with a 1/4" gap and split wood where the screw was because of the shrinkage. These lumberyards sell them saturated with water.
@@rusosure7 , That is an excellent suggestion. I was disappointed when I purchased the lumber because it was still wet. I don’t understand why they leave it out side so long uncovered like that. I am waiting until summer to put a sealer on it so it can dry out. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene I'm no expert, but I assume if the boards are pressure treated, they *must* have to saturate them with a water/chemical solution like in a pressure cooker. And since all this covid nonsense has choked the factory's output, they're probably in the tank on Monday, on the truck Tuesday, in Home Depot Wednesday, and dripping dry on your trailer Thursday. Not any time to dry out.
@@rusosure7 actually Home Depot has them sitting out in the weather for weeks. The wood is wet from the weather not the treatment. Home Depot clams because it’s pressure treated, they don’t need to store it inside. But it’s sure heavy when it’s wet.
Great video! Love the detail! I was wondering if you had to bolt the 2x4s (cross members you cut on your band saw) to the beams?
I did not. The fit is tight and when you screw down the decking board it can’t go anywhere. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Yes, that does make sense!
Really enjoyed the video! Keep up the good work!!
Couldn't the carriage bolts be inserted from inside out so they don't intrude on the interior space? Could serve as bungee points too, when they're on the outside.
I got the bottom square but the top is off by like 1/4 inch. Also air is trapped in my grease cover, it just pops itself off. Guess i need to prefill with grease to solve this? Too tired today to finsh it.
Fantastic video Gene and good to see junior helping you Could you cut the rear vertical beams and add some hinges to the tailgate so it swings down?
That is an excellent suggestion! Thank you so much for that great idea! I wish I had done that in the video. Thanks again for watching.
@@DIYGene Thanks for being so receptive How about a trailer mods follow up video? All the best mate
@@georgekrabs6948, That’s a great idea. When the weather warms up I want to seal the wood, add your suggestion and maybe show how it’s holding up. Thanks again.
If you ever plan on hauling tree branches/ limbs , the gap between the side rails will more than likely be an issue.
Good point. Thanks for watching.
The scotch locks that were used to connect trailer wiring to your lights are prone to failure. There are other connecters that work a lot better. Ground wires should have bare metal to bare metal so a dremel tool would do the job.
ex. military electronics guy
Totally agree. Surprisingly that’s what the trailer kit came with. I have sense change them out using heat shrink. Thanks so much for watching.
Nice looking trailer. I have a couple questions if you don't mind. Have you towed it on the highway much? And I was wondering if the axle is C channel or completely boxed? I could only see 3 sides of it in the video.
This one is a boxed axle. It tows really well. A little bouncy when empty but with a load it’s great. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Deck screws are ok for around the house, but on road conditions, they tend to snap, pop out , end up on the road, when the wood gets older, warps, weather beaten, bounced around.
Great video!!...trailer looks awesome...hope it has served you will these past 2yrs!...1 quick question....did you bolt the 2x4 cross pieces to the frame cross pieces...or did you leave them floating?
Great question. I cut them tight taped them into place. Then when the decking is screwed down it sandwiches the cross stringers and locks them in. I hope that helps. The trailer has been a great help for me and is still holding up great. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I just bought this trailer and started putting it together. In the beginning I noticed that I didn’t have washers so I thought I would go through the parts list. And going by the parts list I am missing quite a few of them. I called and they are going to send me a new trailer but after watching your video it seems like I might have everything I need. All I really got was the smaller bolts, nuts but no washers. I can get washers no problem. I didn’t get the large middle cross beam like you but never thought of putting the two together to make one. Did your video show all the bolts that you used for the trailer? I might cancel the order they are shipping if you recorded all the bolts that you used.
It came with enough including bolting the two center braces together. I didn’t get any washers either. But I feel the lock nuts should suffice. I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching.
Ask them to comp you the cost of some washers, bro. U don’t need a new trailer for that.
@@TheCriticalChris I ended up keeping it. At the time I thought I was missing more parts. I called and the manual is really out of date. It calls for a few items that didn’t come with the trailer. I just bought washers to use.
Great build, Gene. Looked good finished. Curious how much weigh it is rated for? My only comment on a job well done, may be to torn the carriage bolts around and counter sink the nut side into the 2x4 side. Puts the smooth head to the inside and hides the threads from catching on clothing on the outside. Should lose enough strength since these are just side walls. But, hey, maybe your way has served you fine. Again, thanks for the nice video.
Excellent suggestion on the carriage bolts. The trailer is rated for 1715 lbs. thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene Hey Gene, How do we get a title, vin, or Bill of sale for this???
@@bbur75 it actually comes with a title.
Hello I have a question. Why did you have the 2X4 cross beams sit above the metal cross beams? Thanks
I did that because the bolts around the trailer raise up about 1/4”. Rather than trimming or routing out the wood to accommodate the bolt heads I decided to give it a little clearance. You could do it either way. Thanks for watching.
Oooh! Fab Rats music! I like you already, Gene!
Gene, thank you for this Video. I'm curious why you offset the 1x6 Decking about 1" from the edge of the frame perimeter?
I off set it so I could use deck screws to attach the deck to the stringers. Otherwise I would have to drill a lot of holes in the metal and use carriage bolts to secure the deck. You can do that, but this seems to make more sense. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching.
Nice!!
When running your lights, you went thru the top of thebeem. You should have drilled a hole thru the Beem and used grommets to protect the wires. Just a little something great will save your wiring in years tocome.
Excellent point. Thanks for watching.
Where did you buy those corner brackets? I like the 2 holes per bracket!
I got them at Home Depot. They come black powder coated and are around $2.50 ea. Thanks for watching
That's a wonderful instructional video!! How do you register it for a tag?
It actually comes with a certificate of title for registration. Thanks so much for watching.
Just saw this video. Excellent build. Thanks for sharing.
How satisfied are you after 2 years of use? Any issues? Anything you would have done differently?
How heavy is the wood comparing to the plywood since heavier it is you would loose your load carrying capacity.
Thanks in advance!
The trailer is doing great. My only advice would be to use different wiring connectors than the non waterproof ones that come with it. Using deck wood has really been a advantage and is holding up great. I don’t think it added much more weight than plywood but will hold up better. The powder coated metal looks as good today as the day I got it. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
I wonder after it was all said and done what the final cost was. A 5x8 trailer at Northern Tools is currently $1099 with all metal construction and wire mesh floor.
After the lumber the total was around $700.But I also got a $100. gift card at the time. The mesh one must be on sale, its $1140. here. Thanks for watching.
Love it
Thanks so much for watching.
Nice... any idea as to how it can be upgraded to a higher speed rating??
Not sure, but I will look into that.
Looks like a lot of work...
It wasn’t bad at all. But I love building things. Thanks so much for watching.
Bien Hecho!!
I also noticed you didnt try triangulating the axel to the ball joint. Even if its off not sure there is much you could do.
Wow, I did not know that. I just followed the instructions or what was instructions. But luckily for me the trailer tows great. Thanks for watching.
Just watched this video and wondered what you thought all the wood and various nuts, bolts etc weighed?
I am guessing, but I would say 150lbs
What are the dimensions of the c-channel bars that the frame is assem with? Specifically the outer bars that the axle mounts to.
The C channel is 1.75” x 3” by 1/8”. The cross channels are 1.75” x 2.75” The leaf springs are bolted to the 3” channel. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
That cordless impact will just leave you wanting one in your own toolbox! Did you consider a bit of red locktite on the permanent bolts?? I know the nuts are ''nylock'' but it is a trailer that'll be put on the road with your belongings riding on it! Damn nice trailer! The brown lumber with the black steel, goes together nice! What's your capacity??
That is a great suggestion. I wish I would have used Locktight. The load capacity is 1715 lbs. now that the weather is warm and the wood is good and dry I will put a coat of water sealer on it as well. I’m really happy with it and has been a great asset. At least until I can kill the van. Thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene I finally got rid of my full size Dodge conversion van. Empty Nester!! Got a little 94 Ranger pick up, great on gas and can pull that small trailer!
that size is perfect for me, is that frame safe to use for teardrop camping trailer?
I feel like it is. I was thinking of doing the same thing. Thanks so much for watching
i gotta question on this trailer. the axle it its a square tube of steel or just a u channel?
This one is a square tube. I saw the U channel on some Harbor Freight trailers though. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I was on northern tool website when i saw the aluminum frame version and wondered how to build the decking for the bottom. I knew they don't make a 5x8 piece of plywood so I figured to use decking boards, but didn't know how to fasten them to the frame. So I UA-cam'd it and found you :-) Obviously, you answered my main question but I have a couple more. Would it be a good idea to trim down the 2x4's a little to make them flush with the frame so there isn't a space between the frame and the bottom of your deck? Or would it even matter? Also, "All in", how long did it take you to completely put this entire thing together and approx. how much did you spend on lumber? And do you know if a steel frame is better/worse than an aluminum frame? Thanks again for the video. It was very informative and good. And loved that your son was helping you.
I thought about flushing it to the metal, but because of the bolts that run around the outer edge, I decided to go this route. I holds really well and I have had no issues. I went with the steel because it is powered coated and cheaper. The down side was I had planed on $100 in wood and ended up spending $180. Mainly because of the pandemic lumber prices have gone through the roof. I am hoping they come back down soon. I would also look at that composite decking because it may be cheaper than wood right now. I hope this helps, thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene Thanks for the tip. I'll check out the composite boards.
Did yours come with the LED lights or the old-timmie ones? :-)
You know I didn’t look. I bet it has the old style 1157 bulbs.
If using treated pine, depending on the treatment it can react with certain metals (Aluminium and Stainless Steel for example). Minimising direct metal contact like Gene did is an excellent idea.
If you use composite decking, pre-drill and countersink everything, as it can crack easily if precautions aren't taken (perhaps also use a clutched drill, instead of an impact driver, so they aren't over driven too).
I would have installed the Coach Bolts (Carriage Bolts) the other way around too, so that the round head is to the inside. That way you can secure things to the side without worrying about damage from the nuts and remaining bolts. Not as pretty to look at perhaps, but its a utility item!
Is it a preferred method to install lumber to screw the deck bed into?
I was "gifted" the 4 × 8 foldable and I need to strip all rotted lumber. Would it weaken frame if drilled for fasteners?
A job well done! 👍
I liked screwing the wood on for straight. But I also installed wood stringers for the wood to be installed on. Would the trailer you have be able to have wood stringers? This could cut down drilling a lot of holes in the metal. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
How do you get plates for this type of trailer ?
As in license plates? The kit actually comes with a signed title so if you live in a state that requires one, you have a title to register it. Good question! Thanks for watching.
Were the wheels and tires better than the little Harbur Freight 12 in. X 5 in. skinny 2 ply chinese tire setup?
I felt like everything was better than the Harbor Freight trailer from the axle to the finders to the 5’ width rather than 4’.
Are these the same trailers that harbor freight sells? They look about the same but a little more pricy
I felt like they where a little nicer. Like rounded fenders vs square and the metal and its a 5' wide . I think Harbor Freight only has 4' wide. Thanks for watching.
You had me going OK til you got to the wiring. I can't say I share your opinion of crimp on connectors. IME they corrode and fail in about a year. And No chafing protection for the wires passing thru the frame? You're killing me smalls! ;-) By the time you did that "ground" I was offended enough I had to say something. A self tapping screw thru the frame would have been better. I got my trailer like this earlier this week. Mine is the folder, but I can see where they share many of the same parts. Thanks for your time presenting this. Lots to be learned here.
I see what you are saying with the connectors, but that is what it came with. I have sense gone back and replaced them with heat shrink. I hope that dose better. Thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene As an older guy with 50 years mechanic'ing, I always solder and heat shrink. That is "the way". LOL
LOL, Yes this is the way.
The cross piece for the decking were they 2x4 or 2x6?
I used 2 x 4s and then notched the ends 1/2” so they would fit tight into the 3” channel. I hope that helps. I put a list of all materials in the description below the video. Thanks for watching.