Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech
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- Опубліковано 26 тра 2012
- How to clean, inspect, and determine what you can do with your cylinder head. Also how WHAT you do affects your oil system. There are many variables at play when you make changes to your cylinder head deck from your oil system, compression ratio, your valve timing and potentially even disaster. 'best not to go that far with it. Watch this video and avoid it if you're building your own 4g63 head.
The differences between this head and a 1g head are mostly related to port sizes on the intake and exhaust, and different sized head bolt holes. The 7-bolt uses an 11mm bolt, and a 6-bolt uses 12mm. 1g heads have gigantic intake ports, but aside from that, valve geometry, oil system functionality and the service limits are all the same.
Also, click these links for in-depth discussions about oil port modifications for all generations of Mitsubishis, and specifically for 2g head installations on a 1g block.
4g63 Oil Port Modification:
www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbi...
2nd gen head on a 6-bolt block:
www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylin...
Possibly 2 of the best threads on 'Tuners for anyone considering a 1g-in-a-2g or for anyone that wants to know everything about a DSM oil system. - Авто та транспорт
I'm not a DSM person, but I feel like I now know more about DSM engines than most the kids driving them around. Really quality video. Thank you.
I know this video is old but I was literally in the process of plugging in the air grinder with a scotch bright pad with this playing in the back ground... as soon as I hit 1:15 I literally set it down and had a "well shit" moment
Jafro you are the man! I watch all of your videos religiously. I wish I had half the DSM knowledge that you have.
One thing you Must do with an Aluminium Cyl. Head is have it checked for hardness before Any work is done to determine if its worth doing , especially if it has come off an overheated engine , its a simple test with a clear tube and a ball bearing usually free of charge as my machinist does it before carrying out any work . my apologies if this has already been mentioned in the comments , Jafromobile great videos you have thank you
Hope you gained some good talking points by watching me clean my deck (after watching your blueprint series). Always nice to have another perspective. Wish I would have watched this one too before going at mine. I see a lot of things I would have done different on mine now. Ton of methods here that are transferable to so many cars out there. Keep being awesome Jafro. You're a hero of mine.
Great video! Was loooking a good example of using a straightedge and feeler gauge to check for head warpage. Thank you!!
Youre been an inspiration and a excellent source of information for my 4g63 build! thanks Jafro!
Thanks for the cylinder head videos, Jafro. Very helpful.
I'm attempting to do my first cylinder head (8 valve) overhaul on a 1.5 Hyundai G4DJ and you're videos are very helpful.
Thanks for the info man ima try and get the studs out and go from there.
(1/2) Hey Jafro, I'm a huge fan! You and your videos have inspired me to get out in the garage and get working on what needs to be done which brings me to my current issue. Well... I'm in a bit of a pickle, I've recently had my 4G93 02 lancer head resurfaced at my local machine shop and I come to find out that they've gone over the factory grinding limit by .002". Although, I haven't measured the cylinder head yet. (I don't have calipers I'll be getting some tomorrow)
3M makes a wheel called "lady fingers" specifically for removing gasket only off aluminum. My brother used them and got me some from a shop he worked at long ago. That is what they used on head gaskets. Great videos yet again Jafromobile. I have a spare head in the garage and may be able to get you a measurement. I know it is from a bone stock motor as well.
Really helpful video mate
You got that right, I had mine running great, then I screwed it up when trying to fix all my vacuum leaks. now it won't idle. but I've got full boost now, it sux.
Thanks for another great video!!
I used a folded sheet of 320 grid sandpaper and engine oil as lubricant while applying no pressure to remove any small pieces of gasket that may have gotten left behind on a 4d56
man, i wish you were into the 3kgt instead fo the eclipse! haha your videos are super informative and interesting!!
A lot of good information on this video! Pay attention and learn something. Better to wait and find out for sure than have to find a new or used block because of impatience! Your call! 🙄😲😬☹️
Love the vids man and all your help with my problems, thanks for teaching me so much with every vid keep it up!
Woot 3 vids from Jafro in 1 night!
What about turning the straight edge upside down and check it again when a gap is found to ensure isn't the straight edge.
Loving it. Keep it up.
This is why I like cleaning cast iron heads. Totally easier due to brass wire wheel will take the graphite off quick. On aluminum your very right any power tool is bad.
however lapping aluminum heads is my preferred method on a completely flat surface. It's how they did it in the old days. Takes a long time but is able to meet spec tolerances very very closely.
jafromobile, your skills and knowledge is up there. I don't doubt them at all..... Some heads just should not be resurfaced, just sold for scrap metal. (this applies to ohc or dohc cylinder heads only) If the cylinder head is warped at the surface where it meats up the cylinder head gasket, it will be also warped at the top where the cams are held. Heads don't grow, they bend, twist and or warp. Cam shaft journals are line-bored straight so that the cam can spin easily. If the line-bore is off, then the cam or cams will not spin easily. In other words if the cylinder head is too/very warped your cams will jam up. If your cams don't spin easily then your timing belt will not last long. I believe its up to a good mechanic to decide if a warped cylinder can be resurfaced. Most machine shops don't care, they just want to charge you for the work/resurface job. Have you ever seen a cylinder head so warped that the cams, or cam (sohc engine ) are/is very hard spin after a resurfacing at a machine shop?
No, I haven't seen that yet, but I don't doubt it. Makes perfect sense. If I had a warped head I wouldn't put it back in service. I would call a shop that can oven-straighten it. Moss Motors has a video of him doing this to a warped head. It's a pretty cool process. Not all warped heads are junk. :) I'm pretty sure that machine was created by someone who told some other determined soul with a rare cylinder head that it couldn't be done. Oven-straightening. Pretty cool.
Wow, that is pretty cool stuff (oven straightening). I've never heard of it. I'll try to find a Moss Motorsports video on that. You are correct about not all heads are junk. Just the really bad ones. Hey, Thanks for your videos, they are GOOD. I like the way explain things...... The cylinder heads that I have come across with this problem were from a Datsun 280z single ohc 6 inline N42 series head, and a Daewoo head dohc head 4 inline, in both heads the cams/cam would NOT (almost jammed completely)spin easily, the Deawoo head would break timing belts at only 2k miles of use.
Great video and good insight. To the razor blade haters. The method jafro demonstrates does not appear to heavily divot or scratch the aluminum. Maybe it is more about poor razor blade technique than razor blade itself. Seems to work fine on my head and block gasket surfaces. I doubt that 95% of dsmers are as thorough as Jafro and willing to share his experience with fellow members of the dsm community. Great video Jafro! All your videos are great keep em coming.
just another f.... observer ?
Great info, I did not know that about the bolts.
Thanks for taking the time to share.
i am not aware to weather my 420A head has been surfaced before or not however it did have a slight tic from lifters not alot you would have had to been paying alot of atencion to it to notice however i am about to resurface it i have knocked off the casting marks on the inside of the head to allow better oil flow and eliminate oil build up i would like to know what depth to make my oil passage to after resurfacing it
Excellent! informative, and always interesting to watch! :-)
Where can I get a tabletop-style valve spring compressor like that? I've tried a few "universal" valve spring compressors but they are horrible and it takes an hour to remove the springs.
can plastic razor blade be used?
I have 1g 7bolt head with casting of G6 and it's oil port is only 0.060, and the head has not been shaved still at 5.200"
Ha, I used a wire cup brush to clean off the graphite gasket and wet sanded the surface with 500 Grit sandpaper. and that was on a head that I had stretched the headbolts out more than a couple mm. worked just fine and holds up to 17 psi just fine. 170 psi on the compression test. Nippon MLS head gasket. I don't think razor blades should ever touch an aluminum surface, cause they will cause way more damage than any wire brush on a drill.
Whenever I take a razor blade to aluminum, I put little divots and scratches in the aluminum. Even with obsessive care and hours of work, I don't think that is avoidable. So, what is it about scotch brite that you don't like?
I have read some threads on DSMTuners about "porting" the teardrop. What are your thoughts on this?
What is the foil thing that you are running along your straight edge?
wondering if I had to always deck the head ? Or if it’s surface is straight and flat can I just remove all gasket material with razor and reinstall with a new gasket without decking?
what i do if there is a large scratch on the head
Hello, I am rebuilding my 420A (Cousin of the 4G63) after a oil delivery failure to the head, and my head also has the whitish tan colored deposits on the exhaust valves. By any chance do you know what these deposits are?
Really useful thanks for sharing that ; )
(2/2) I'm trying to figure out if I can work with this and get a bigger head gasket or would resurfacing the top of the block down to whatever the excess grinding is to get them to match up work? Any recommendations on what I should do?
Oh yeah I meant to ask did you do anything to the block on this engine? Looks like it has slight glazing in the cylinders. I am assuming someone with your kind of attention to detail will probably end up replacing the piston rings and will probably hone the cylinder walls. Just curious if you got around to doing it yet?
Oh I also meant to ask is that deck flatness spec for any head or do they all have different tolerances? Mine I can get a .0015 feeler under it but not the .002 I can't seem to find specs for the engine I am working on.
question. two of my exhaust manifold studs on the cyl head are broken off. do you know if there pressed in or thredded in??? how do i go of fixing this problem??
Hello sir love the videos , I had a question maybe you could help out, pretty much wanted to know if 1g head internals would fit in 2g head ??
Are you using a metal ruler as a straightedge. I seen other straightedge thicker and longer. Is that ruler the same as a professional straightedge.
+Kamil G Your comment has replies disabled. It's from Lowe's, and it's a piece of a square level. They're about $25.
Hello Jafromobile .Great stuff ! .been spending a lot of time watching your videos .Could you please tell me the type of camera you use ?The quality is very good .
4:46 upper left. Do you do any kind of deburring of holes in the cylinder head? My head got back from decking and notice many of the passages has the kind of fine burrs that can be seen at 4:46 in your video too. Not sure if I should get in there with a hobby file or something, to prevent small metal parts flowing around the coolant system.
Yes, I do. At the end of my cylinder head porting video, I take it even further than that, I de-bur the entire crankcase on the other side. There's worse stuff in there than you ever see from the head surface. The head surface cleanup I save for assembly, though. It's after you get machine work done that you have to do that because it winds up exposing a whole new layer after you get the head shaved.
I may be wrong. I may have done the deburring in the first Glyptal video. I do it in all my cylinder heads, so it might even be in both videos...
very helpful video . I'm currently replacing a cylinder head gasket for a 2006 Nissan Altima S with a 2.5 L engine . I found a lot of surface rust on the cylinder head and was wondering if you had any tips about dealing with this issue is there any way to clean it off safely?. the car belongs to my mother in law and she made the mistake of just putting water and no coolant in her radiator. I am also wondering if liquid gasket is good to use on the head along with the cylinder head gasket itself?.
+steve zavala I might be misunderstanding you... but the cylinder head should be aluminum on that car, shouldn't it? Aluminum doesn't rust. Do you mean the cylinder block? And no... no liquid gaskets of any kind there. Just a new head gasket. If there's rust on the block that won't clean up with a razor blade, it's probably warped. If you've pulled the head off and both parts are corroded on the cylinder head surface, they both need to be machined. Now if you're just talking about the valve cover... that's a whole different ball game. Liquid gasket is okay on one side of a valve cover. I already have videos for valve cover gaskets and cleaning up cylinder heads in your home garage. If you have questions about your equipment in particular, there's no better source than that car's service manual. A Hayne's manual is a good second choice.
the 6 bolt heads appear to have different casting number system. mine says 2.0 with a 12 under it.
Sgt Balestrini They do. It's a fortunate thing. For instance... my Hyundai 1.6L head (uses the same cast as a 6-bolt) says 1.6L. The Mirage turbo's have the same thing going on. The cylinder heads appear identical except that the runner volume and combustion chamber volumes are different. If you didn't take time to measure them, they'd look like the exact same thing... but would have dramatic affects on your static compression ratio. I don't know what the 12 means. :( It's going to take a smarter DSMer than myself to figure that one out.
yep getting new bolts aint no way I would put old ones in. lol The engine is a GM 122 2.0L L4 OHC and was in dire need of some love. That cylinder being like that I think combustion gasses were getting into the coolant because the system was over pressurized. I was lucky it didn't blow any hoses.
But I figured while I was at it I might as well do a valve job while I was waiting on my parts. So doing new valve seals and cleaning the valves was burning oil because 2 seals had a leak. lol
wow thanks jafro
Great video. when resurfacing head how does it affect valve timing
It decreases the distance between your crankshaft and camshaft centerlines. In other words, it makes the distance of the tight side of your timing belt or timing chain shorter. It may not seem like it would do much, but we're talking about degrees of rotation, not the distance. It does have a measurable affect if you're tuning on a razor's edge. Removing deck material retards the cam (or cams).
I like that 16" straight edge. Where did you buy that? I tried looking for a Swanson straight edge on amazon but couldn't find the one you have.
Before I go on hours of crazy researching, I figure I'd ask you first. What is your take on O-ringing the head or block..or both. Is it necessary when seeing more than 600hp? Is it reliable for street use? Is it pointless if Im not running over 30 psi?
you say not to use sandpaper, but i've seen a lot of people using a 220 superfine sanding paper, just glue it on the table and move the head back and forward. what do you think about it?
I'd never do it. I might use that on an exhaust flange, or intake manifold flange, but unless I'm being chased by bears in the Yukon trying to escape and the only way I can get away is to fix the head gasket with duct tape and some mig welding wire, then maybe I'd try it on a cylinder head flange. It's just too easy to get it wrong and trash the part. 220 is course, btw. 400 is considered medium, and 600+ is fine.
Are you saying that a felpro graphite hg is better than a mls cometic when it's not smooth and you said you run 25psi what hp
I live in Michigan and I'm trying to find a reliable machine shop that has a pretty good background with the 4g63's. DSMgraveyard in Kalamazoo, MI seemed good. But all I read are back reviews on them. So thats my current mission is looking for a good engine shop.
Whats the lowest possible I could go on a 4g63 head with stock cams and gears ?? I am at 5.185 ' on the head
You can go until you run out of valve clearance. I did a video about this called "fighting the valve clearance", and I demonstrate how to measure this as well as a short discussion about the resurfacing indicators. It's the perfect video for this question. What I do in that video is how to make it work if you run out.
haha good name.
When I was a kid back in the late sixty's I used to work on British cars,while my friends wrenched on American muscle. My point here is what will my grand kids want to mess with when they are old enough to mess with cars ? ohh that 1998 Camry is sweet? The sad thing is everything has electronics in it.
I don't know why I brought this up haha but I have spent the last 30 years working on electronic equipment and when it is outdated that's it you are hosed.
Thanks for the reply,
its an engineers steel rule, so it should be quite precise in regards to tolerances
u sound like eric the car guy lol....good video buddy..:)
That's a huge compliment! Thanks!
What about using one a 90 degree air gun/sander with one of those green disc with plastic fingers to clean the head surface? I cant imagine doing that any harm since metal beats plastic.
green is waaaaaay too aggressive for aluminum. Use the white one if you have to use this method.
Hi i have a 4g15 gdi and i want to turbo charge it, i want to know if it can be done and whats the best turbo to go with, thanks
I wish I knew which turbo to recommend? The gdi is a Diesel, isn't it? I'm really not familiar with the 4G15 series engines as I typically swap them for a 2.0L 4g63. There's a forum called 4g61t dotorg that has a broader fan base. Perhaps asking the question there will provide better answers? Lots of the same chassis that the 4g61 came in also received 4g15's.
Thanks, i'll look it up, its hard to get my hand on a 4g63 where am from, but i could get the 4g93 turbo gdi
i have colt czt with the 4g15 engine ,turbo charged standard..quite a quick car for what it is m8..:)
i rahter paid 25 bucks n not fuck shit up
Did you take the head in to get it resurfaced? Cuz your cleaning was pretty "pitty" and scratcy with that razorblade.
Great videos. Would like to know 4G63 included valve angle??
Think u r the right man to answer that. Thanks ...
Sílvio Portugal🇵🇹
The information I have for a 1g valve angle is 44.5 degrees +/- 1 degree.
Should be the same as 2g. I can only verify the 1g.
Thanks. #1 in DSM info. Keep up the good job. Top quality work and videos👌
at 8:03 u said micrometer, i thought it was a digital caliper??
if you remove the balance shaft, how much should we mill out of the tear drop hole so that no seals go pop?
I cut mine between .090" and .105" for the 2 heads I worked over because they had ARP head studs and the .105" head yielded 12.5 PSI with 30W oil on a block with no balance shafts, no oil squirters, and a ported OFH at idle on a hot day. It gains 10 PSI per 1000 RPMs. 80 PSI cold idle pressure. The block oil gallery mods were done as well on the .105" headed block. I should be running 40w on that engine because it has .0025" oil clearances all the way around on the crank and rod bearings. That should put the oil pressure up between 16 - 18 PSI, but I haven't done it yet. Still rockin' the 30W. If you have oil squirters, .085-.090" should do it. Remember the head gasket crush thickness also plays a factor. My measurements didn't include that. That's without the gasket.
The Hyundai first startup video shows my oil pressure results for the .105" head.
This video is 4 years old and there's a fast reply! Looking forward for new videos Jaf, love them videos
What type of rtv I can use on the middle exhaust stud to prevent oil leaks? Video at 5min 10 sec
Grey RTV works fine!
@@Jafromobile thank you....
@@Jafromobile could this stic cause oil leak and cause exhaust smoking issue? Trying to chase down this smoking issue I’m having... thanx
@@christopherorpilla6260 If that stud wasn't coated with sealant before it was installed, then not only could it cause it, it's definitely the cause of it. Oil chases heat. It's a really difficult job to do without removing the manifold, but I'm not going to tell you you can't. But if you do, pull your radiator, and then just do your manifold nuts to get to it. That should give you the room to work. You can double nut that stud and get it out if it's stuck without having to do much else. Loosen or remove the lower o2 housing support bolt to prevent bending the bracket. Penetrating oil is your friend.
@@Jafromobile ur the best... dsm god
So sanding block wouldn't pass?
There's a video about this by oldskoolfunk. There is a way to do this effectively with similar means that you describe, but it's not ideal. Effective? Yes! But getting it wrong can ruin the head. When a machine shop isn't a possibility, I would do it to get me home in my daily, but not on my race car.
actually it's avoidable by using plastic scraper or thick plexiglass.. scotch brite can still remove material.
Is there anyway I could get ur email? To ask u a few questions about my 4g63 head.
so that's it as clean as the head needs to be?
DAMN! I don't have a dam but this Info is very useful. I'm currently fully building a ls1 for my s13 coupe.
Subscribed and your voice is awesome. Reminds me of the narrator from "on any Sunday" :). It's an awesome dirt bike film of you haven't seen it.
Agree with ya there man I believe DSM stands for Dollar,Stealing,Machine lol
Hi Jafro, first of all thanks a lot for your video, you explain everything so well and concretely it's a pleasure to watch. Now, I would like to know what you think of this method to resurface the deck, do you think it's possible to a perfectly flat deck? Thank you.
/watch?v=mc_gaGAf2pk
I am all confused on what to do. I possible wanna go 1mm larger on valves. I will need brpnze valve guides that are 1mm larger, SuperTech valve seals, ? what kinda guides because #s are confusing me more and more. Springs but supposed to have some in it maybe I can send you some pics. As far as retainers im sure the ones that come with the springs are fine, but then again numbers for my 1mm valves. I think all will match. Machine shop is my biggest fear. Nothing runs right around here.
Is that a real mechanic straight edge or a drawing straight edge.
It's the thick ruler portion of a combination square.
yeah, i just did it to save money. and if it fails, then I can have it milled. My gasket is reusable. and I have ARP studs now.
Compared to jafros method and your method to each their own :p
Scotch is a nice way to clean it.
But only by hand with brake cleaner.
That's my method when the engine is fully tore down i will do it on the head and block. Only reason I only do it like that when it's apart is so i can be sure everything is cleaned out very well.
so many stupid comments on here too funny indeed more then half don't even have a clue how to change a Tyre , great video's keep them coming
millimeter ??? way not ?????
at 8:00 its a digital caliper not a micrometer loool
never let my head overheat I pulled that son of a bitch and the head gasket surely failed. The outer right piston was full of antifreeze and oil. Gonna get to work cleaning the bores and the head carbon and everything. Fun fun
Surface out
Really! I thought you were a professional. That ONLY qualifies as a straightedge in grade school. A TRUE straightedge is purchased at an industrial supply distributor found in ANY major city. A true straightedge is accurate to 2 TEN THOUSANDTHS of an inch (.0002") over each foot in length and doesn't change shape/contour with temperatures the way RULER does. Just my 2 TEN THOUSANDTHS of a Cent!