My machine shop guy has been great to me. He delt with me when i had absolutely no idea what i was doing about 9 years ago to now that i am knowledgeable and have done a lot of engine work. Now he likes to have conversations with me instead of trying to talk to one another like we are speaking another language lol. Point is,its good to have a good machine shop and a good relationship with the person running it.
Same here. JafroMobile's videos mesmerize me. I think a lot of it has to do with how quick he can talk and work. It's not slow and boring to follow. It's fast paced and methodical. If there's something I didn't understand I have the luxury of replaying that section. Unlike TV there's no need to go slow on UA-cam. Everyone can digest the same material at their own pace. People that recognize that do very well on UA-cam. Jafro is one of them. :)
Dear Cylinder Head Man. In the start of your Video, You keep the information SIMPLE. To the point an straight forward. Job well done sir, There's so many people out there that mis the boat. Keep up the good work..
Good common sense breakdown. Some know more or less than you, but you know how to lay it down for those who don’t and that is why I like this channel. You don’t make assumptions we know it all!😊👍🏻
This video truly made my day. I don't think you will ever know how much but thank you! I can't wait to see more rebuilds from you and I'll hopfully do my own with help from your channel.
i have a mazda bpt approaching 300,000 kms, new head gasket and cambelt on the way, your videos are awesome, refreshing my memory about all the porting and processes ill have to be doing. i can tell the job will consume many hours and dollars more than j already anticipate
Great videos man! Thanks for sharing - I can never learn enough. About to learn how to Helicoil a manifold stud back in. Took me two days to get new WH1C/T3 mani setup in, just to pull back off to fix head stud. Cams & springs are next - your vids will help for sure, thanks.
One fun fact to know is that cams are hardened to the point of being pretty brittle. Nature of the beast. I worked in an auto parts store that dealt with a lot of engine parts. Cams came out of the box snapped in half all the time. Treat them like glass, just to be safe.
I know lol, reason being because I'm about to install some used non-ticking 3rd revised lifters (that I got for $20 off DSMTuners) onto a 90' 6-bolt head and was just curious. And I just found out that the Evo crowd has problems with ticking lifters as well. BTW Thanks mate, your videos are so helpful to the DSM world and also to people who are fans of engines no matter what size. RIP little Civic Dude.
Thanks! Just to be clear. The head is still attached to the engine block on the vehicle. I want to remove the head from the vehicle while not having to remove the sprockets because they are a bear. I'll let the machine shop work on that if the need to. Right? Thanks so much!
Yea, i figured spring upgrades might have to go with a cam upgrade, but how aggressive is to aggressive? Straight 272s or 280s? And how good are hks springs?
Love the videos, information, experience... Also, THANK YOU for not wasting viewers' time! The editing is great! I just wish this kind of channel was available for the NISSAN VQ35DE engine. Anyways, keep up the good work.
If you take out the valve lifters and didnt number them, how do you know where each one goes back again, this is on a 93 Lexus GS300 cylinder head. Thanks
Those ice cube trays are proper handy, were did you get those? Just made for a 16 valve head job. Cling film is a nice idea too, I never watch one of your videos and not learn something new.Is this the beginning of the engine for your colt?
I saw the engine in the colt, but I havnt seen it run or drive so i wasnt sure if you were just mocking it up, or what. Please tell me you dont have videos of it all ready and i somehow missed them? I always follow your channel, so sorry if I missed it.
i am doing head gasket replacement on a 2001 xterra and I need to have the cylinder heads removed and machined. i am having a hard time getting the cam sprokets removed and I wonder if I can just remove the head with the cam sprockets attached like you did and have the machine shop remove them if necessary. Thanks
Jafro, I went searching for when you switched from a standard plywood benchtop surface to a facade of easy to clean mild steel and even easier to clean brown paper. It turns out that it was some time between this video and the driveshaft 105 video, its a shame that you didn't film the benchtop upgrade, just to have seen that footage. is it 14 or 16 gauge btw, I was kind of looking to see if you have that footage because I want to surface my own benchtop
I'm on this video because I recently purchased a JDM Evo VI (I live in Canada which is how they're legal) and basically want to learn as much as I can about the 4G63 engine before I eventually do a cam & valve spring/retainer swap and a complete teardown-rebuild way down the road. It seems like a nice basic engine to be able to pull apart which is why I feel confident doing it. By profession, I'm an AME (fancy acronym for aircraft mechanic) and when I was in school we had to disassemble and rebuild a basic piston aircraft engine. In regards to the bearing surfaces, have you ever heard of a caution to not touch them with bare fingers? In school they wouldn't let us touch them due to the oil from our fingers causing accelerated corrosion. I'll be wearing gloves either way, I was just curious cause I've never seen a video where people paid any attention to that.
Hahah, Yeahp. Check out my Hyundai Elantra Shortblock Assembly video. Gloved all the way. I don't touch them either. Acids in your skin will etch the bearings. Nice tip! ;)
I have a question: if there is some lite scoring in the cam journal from the lack of lubrication, is there a repair for this? The scoring can be felt with the thumbnail.
If you wanted to change out cams, all you would have to do is remove the old ones and put the new ones in without toiching the lifters rockers and valves? Is there a way to line up the cam lobes etc? Thanks
NEED HELP/ADVICE, I accidently turned my head on its side and all the rocker arms fell out, it is also a dohc, I realized I shouldn't just place them back in how ever and go on about my way trying to run the engine, so im wondering what I can do or if a shop or mechanic can even fix this?
hey jafro im so glad i found you i already subscribed im buying a 96 2g talon 420a n/a fwd(boring) got my buddies talon that he totaled the body but is going to sell me his 6 bolt 4g63t that he has alread done a few bolt ons to, tiwn turbo exhaust rear end ect... if you can send me the 2nd video of the balnce shaft elimnator that would be awesome because i canoot find it thanks
I took a cylinder head off the other day and remembered not to sit it down on the valve side, however it was an OHV engine therefore the camshaft wasn't pushing the valves open so it didn't really matter. Still good practice though
Jafro, I love your videos man. Your so smart an know so much about cars. I wish i knew just a much as you did. I have a few questions if you could answer please. I recently bought i 1986 Toyota Supra, and i ran into a few problems that i would like to get your advice on. Oh an the car as 169k miles on it, So heres what she told me about the car. The car has been sitting for about 8 months the motor stopped running because she said the engine seized, but before the engine seized she blew a head gasket an got it repaired, an afterwards the car drove fine for about a week an the motor seized on her. So the first thing i did when i looked at the car was checked the oil an there was oil on the dip stick an was just about full, so i thought that was a good sign. At the time i could not started the car or even try to because the battery was dead. So i purchased the car from her thinking that the motor probably was not seized because the oil was fine an that the engine stopped running because she blew another head gasket. Which i figured worst case senerio the head was warped an maybe the block as well. So i just got the head back from the machine shop a couple days ago and the head was warped, So i asked them to do a surface job on it, pressure check it, an clean it up as well check my valves. They machined it an everything looked good. Ok, question #1 can i reuse my camshafts/cam caps if there is some scoring an rough spots on them? can the machine shop buff/machine the rough an scoring out of them? If so will that messing up my oil clearences between the camshafts an caps and the head? Or should i get new cams an caps? If i get new cams/caps do i new to get a brand new head as well? because there is also scoring/roughness on the head where the cams sit. #2 As the head was in the shop i was working on pulling the block an unbolting the transmission. To unbolt the transmission from the block i must first unbolt 7 bolts from the flywheel from the torque converter as well some outter bolts too. To do this i must unbolt 2 bolts at a time an then rotate the crankshaft an repeat. Well when i tried to rotate the crankshaft i realized that the crankshaft didnt not want to move. Now i put alot of force on trying to rotate the crankshaft an it still didnt not want to turn over. Which makes me think that the engine was really seized. Which i dont understand why... There is oil in the engine, so i know its not oil starved, could there be a possiblity of rust seizing the pistons as the car sat for 7-8 months with the blown head? when i did remove the head i did notice on piston #1 there was coolant sitting on top of it. If the engine is seized how can i get it unseized? Or break the pistons loose so i can rotate the crankshaft freely? I need to unseize the engine to rotate the crankshaft to unbolt the transmission, so i can pull the block an take it to the machine shop. Oh the engine is a 7mge 3.0 v6. Ive heard people using penatrating oil an spray the pistions or tranmission oil, or power steering fuild. As of this moment i am using penatrating oil on the pistons. Ive filled each of them with about a inch of it. It as been sitting for a couple days now a i still cannot move the crankshaft. What do i do? Please help Jafro! Love ya. Keep up the videos.
Pull the oil pan. You'll likely find your answer at a glance. If it sat full of water and rusted itself together, you'll know immediately. Rod/bearing problem? Immediately. If it was a problem with the pistons you'd have most likely noticed that with the head off. I don't know what I can tell you about your head over the internet. People ask me to diagnose things all the time that there's no possible way I can answer without handling the parts, but I would advise you to let your machine shop deal with that.
Hey Jafro i just wanted to say thank you for the advice. I did find my problem when i pulled the oil pan.. A quickl up date. I just pulled the block a few days ago an just pulled the pistons out today, and WOOOW. I could not BELIEVE what i saw in clyinder #6. Ive never seen something so amazing, yet so horrifying at the sametime. I wish i could send you a picture of what i saw. Anyways Thank you an hope to see some new videos upload soon. Peace out.
It works like a charm every time! ;) I take it the bottom end problem wasn't caused by the head?... ...or did it dump coolant and/or drop a valve? My recommendation? Post a video! :o
Yea the head wasnt the problem. So it was the piston in cylinder #6. Well actually it was the rod cap bearing it pretty much in peices. Which was stopping the crank from moving freely. Its so bad that the metal shaving from the bearing are EVERYWHERE on the crank journal, an part of the bearing is actually stuck to the crank journal. Yea maybe i will make a video tomorrow an post it so you can see what im talking about.
I would suggest watching Cylinder Head 205 and 206. All the dirt on DOHC valve timing can be found there. The most important thing you will need aside from that knowledge is patience.
Loctite is usally used on pulleys and other objects moving with high rpms where it is critical if the bolt or nut become loose and is used on places you rarely have to take apart. Before loctite was invented lock tab washers was used instead. Most of the time it is stated in the shop manual if it should be used. Anti sieze is used as a rust inhibitor mostly on parts of the car that is exposed to the elements such as wheelbolts and brake caliber bolts/components that if not used can be a pain to remove because of rust. I hope this answers your question :)
thank you for doing this brother, your a good man, people need more guys to teach, and keep it all about the lesson, cause we can't keep makin moreon.. and with lesson, theres no moreon.
so even if i have the entire 4g3t with awd driveline will not work... i guess its back to craiglist, only reason i was going to get it is because it ran and i could drive it home from a long distance that i gotta get it from
Jafromobile, I'm a big fan of your vids. Are you in business to fix 4g63 for customers officially ? or you're just a hobbyist / youtuber? I may somehow use you. My 4g63 been sitting for 5 years...
soo i have to look for plymouth laser awd T/gsx eclipse/ tsi awd talon or an evo to get this to work out.. i just cant pass up a 4g63t built AND driveline for 800
Any mechanics out there.. I have a 1998 f150 4.6L v8 that's ticking and the truck is shaking. The ticking is coming from the passenger side around the valve cover which is also right next to the fuel injectors and spark plugs. The spark plugs were replaced with iridium ones and wires were replaced but i'm skeptical about misfire due to the plugs because they're not individual coils. Its 2 coil packs 4 running off each. And it seems to me to be dual overhead cams which take out the possibility of lifters. So my hunch is a bent rocker arm. Im just wondering if anyone else has some insight on this. Also the tick changes with the revolutions.
I enjoy watching your videos, I do have a question. I see all these videos about head etc.. No matter what u type in, I cannot get an answer. Or video rather. My son blew a head gasket 2001 eclipse 4G64 G6E2 head. SOHC. I own a body shop and pain I DONT claim to build these types of engines. Give me a 327 any day. My question IS, how do remove the camshaft itself. I've taken everything off labeled ething, Im very conscious about being neat & clean ocd crap. But I know i gotta get the dang pulley (Gear) to remove, does the cam slide out from gear side, and what type of groved inset is that on the cam sensor side when I took the cover off and sensor out. I'm guessing the gear comes off and slide the cam out thats way. I dont have a flat bat or square BUT i used sumthn else and see its warped. IDK how much, Dont have a feeler gauge, and NEVER......EVER Loan ur tools to even ur friends. over 12k in tols gone and so is he. Specialty tools of the pant n body trade and minor engine work. I figure since I ONLY watch URs and 1 other guys videos I'd ask you 1st. Im a muscle car man and i do rebuild the old goodies But Help me Plz. OH, big Quest as to why IM ASKN..... I had the Eclipse on the paint shop side of garage at home, and a curtain seperates the 2. I was grinding and my son took a friend to show him the head, ts was also covered up. A cpl hrs later I just had a gut feeln to ck the head and it was NOT covered AND I did see metal in on the head. I had already taken rockers off, I noticed that while lookn at the head 2 valves in #2 were out 3/16 maybe and #3 cylinder had 2 valvesd down a but, alomst didnt see that, is that a prob? I dont see anything bent, i see 1 valve that I took out had maybe 1/2 inch of a rub look on the stem, im guessn rubbn the seat?? Any way, Im sorry to bug ya, I guess I simply wanna know now that I see all the lil metal shavings in the head if soakn and sprayn it down will be ok OR do I have to Remove the cam and clean. Summary> 2001 Eclipse 2.4 SOHC 46G4 Engine & G6E2 aluminum head, im sure u know that. duh. Gotta How much does your machine shops shave a head for 40 bux?? Thank Jaf Keep up the Great Videos , Chuck
The cam is bolted down with cam caps. Once you remove all the cam caps, you should be able to lift it straight up. If it fights you, it's because the cam seal has RTV sort of gluing down the timing side. On pushrod engines like what's found in a 67 Corvette or a 72 Impala (you said 327 :P), cam journals are bigger than the lobes, and that's why you can slide them in and out on pushrod motors. On most OHV engines, it's cam caps bolting them down. You can leave the gear on it to remove it, but installing the cam seal requires that it's removed. You should find a hex cast into the cam. Grab onto that thing with a monkey wrench, and hit the cam bolt with an impact driver and it will bust loose. Fortunately he blew a head gasket, so you're removing the head. If you haven't removed lifters, all the contamination is in the crankcase region and can easily be washed out without contaminating oil galleries once you remove it. Check out my DIY parts washer video. ;)
The thing is, there are NO cam caps. Thats what i was so confused about. I took the rockers and valve springs and and pushed the valves thru Marking all of em Exact place. Its got the cam gear (for timing belt) and other end, behind the CPS theres a weird looking IDK what to call it. Maybe splined 2 grooves. I was assuming take gear off and slide it all the way thru ..... It certainly doesnt lifet up and does NOT have cam caps. Im sorry. Weird huh So many DOHC and NO SOHC videos on dissasembly most are same EXCEPT, until u get cam out.
extremepainter65 I'll eat my words. None of those instructions will work on a 2001 4g64. In 2000, Mitsubishi switched production from the SIRIUS I to the SIRIUS II platform, then began developing their MIVEC platform on it. The instructions I gave you were for the 19xx-1999 engines. I've never worked on either version of the SOHCs beyond a tune-up, but looking up the camshaft it appears that the cam journals are bigger than the lobes. So yeah, those slide in and out but I don't have any idea how? That means that camshaft essentially has it's own thrust bearing, but I have no idea how it's removed? Best bet would be to buy the service manual, really. All my experience is SIRIUS I DOHC stuff. The DSM years. 2000+ there was no contract partnership arrangement and Mitsubishi had already sold their manufacturing equipment to Hyundai. The platform you're working on had just changed over.
Thanks Jaf for the input, I knew I hadnt lost my mind about that camshaft coming out. Your really smart guy who knows those 63 DOHC for sure, very nice videos. The Haynes manuals are ignorant, for those torque specs. I just dont get it. Im tryn to get the head surface clean to check if its to far gone, I hear its 4 thousands, and IF more than 2 its gotta be shaved?? Gotta get those feeler gauges and flat bar, square, and ck it and block. Cast block should be ok, but I gotta ck and aluminum head, i know is warped, and needs to be cut down. Son's gettn lazy on me, and I said, longer it takes the worse the walls are getting, even though i did coat em with oil, still those dang stains i just dont like it. Ive seen worse on videos but THANK YOU for the follow up. You should get a G6E2 head and video that being taken of and apart, or atleast taken apart and cleaned the way you do the DOHC older versions. I'm sure I'll figure it out, or just let my friend cut it down flat b4 i assemble it. I just like doing my own work, its a pride thing.
Is the metal elbow attached to the top of the aluminum thermostat housing on these 2.3L dual cam engines removable to allow a new seal to be installed? My Ranger engine has a slow leak that comes up around the heater hose elbow. I've tried block sealers, and they don't work for long. Thanks...
Yeah, I can't speak for the Ford/Mazda platform specifically, but on most cars it comes apart with 2 or 3 bolts. The bolts aren't super-tight. Like only 12-14lbs. There's a thermostat and a gasket sandwiched between them. Do that job yourself and it's typically under $15 + coolant. Don't over-honk the bolts putting it back together.
I don't mean the plastic housing that has the bolts for mounting to the aluminum block. Its actually located further back under the intake manifold in a porthole through the metal. Thanks
That's kind of what I meant. The 4g63 engine in this video has an aluminum 3-piece machined aluminum housing stuck together with RTV and one gasket. If it's a 95-99, then there's 2 gaskets. But on all Mitsubishi engines from 1.5L-2.4L the heater hose connection is press-fit and then welded into the housing so there is no gasket. It's nothing like you described.
1 other question, the car sat 2 weeks and when i pulled the head, its got stains on the cylinder walls, yellowish kinda, no rust, just enuf to see it and your finger can feel it. Im not pulling engine and I've prepped the deck and even took my long file board and sanded it, after razor blading it and brake kleen. Looks nice its the walls im concerned about. I stuffed rags while cleaning deck and now have oil on the walls. While im tryn to figure out what to do with the head. Take to my machine guy and have him do it all, then I can put it back on car. My sons ruined my paint shop garage.NOW IM TAKING CUSTOMERS CARS TO SHOP. These were small body n paint jobs for friends n neighbors, Im about ready to push the Eclipse outside, its a shame, ran like a bat outta hell. 5 speed awesome. He bought it 9 months ago. Bad radiator caused this, and him NOT listening to me, as my other kids about maintenance on their vehicles. Sorry to ramble on.
The radiator blew because of the head gasket. The cylinder wall contamination could be a ring problem, or it could be from the coolant milkshake inside the crankcase. I'd measure the bores to determine this. Check the ring gap. Check the piston to cylinder wall clearance. If it hits spec on all tests and the crosshatches are still there, it may wipe clean with mineral spirits or ATF and you can re-use those rings. If you're going to replace the rings, give those bores a hone. Don't replace the rings if you're not honing it or they won't seal right. Don't hone it if you're not replacing the rings.
Its only stained at 2/3 , the down stroke pistons, 1/4 look sweet. The gasket around Cylinder 1 @ piston top at comp stroke, The gasket actually has a 1/4 inch cut in it But piston looks aok and walls looks ok. The valves look ok. Its only got maybe 1800 miles on it, son bought off CL, I drove it home, bought 45 miles home, real stought 5 sp. Any other ideas. Even my alldata says no cam caps, YET wont tell me how to remove the dam cam idk...Im losing my mind and tying up my garage, when I should be fabricating & painting. Thank you Jaf
Sorry Jaf, No I'm not taking pistons out. Walls look good. If u shave the head, obviiously ur valves are gonna be closer to pistons, what head gasket do u recommend i use? Ive used ATF and yellowish/green stains are still there, shame too, its so dang clean Yet i can see that stain. If it was mine, Sure id pull ther engine and do it from bottom ta top Ething. This is sons mess, after I told him b4 driving it ething should be and needs to be ckd, fluids etc.. Torque specs are all messed up.... 1 says 58 ft lbs then 90 degree and anutha 90 degree and 2nd 72 ft lbs and 90 degree and anutha 90 degree. 1 says tighten to 58 ft lbs and then Completely loosen ALL bolts then tighten to 14 ft lbs Who would say that and why>????
Is there a way to adjust the timing without marks? I took the chain out and my stupidity allowed me to turn the the sprocket s individually, which turned the cams. Now I have no idea where I am at. Call me an idiot because I am. 2015 Chev malibu 2.5
What is the logic of removing the cam caps from the center out to the side.? Have an imagine the most pressure would be in the middle of the camshaft instead of on the sides.
Think about how much pressure would be on the center (with 8 valve springs on either side) if you took it loose last. It would focus the energy from both sides directly in the center of the part. It would have half as much material length to take all that spring pressure. When you take the ends loose last. That pressure gets spread over the entire length of the part. Either way, putting them on or taking them off, you're supposed to do it incrementally anyway.
@@Jafromobile Hmmm I don't know much about car mechanics but basic logic says that the camshaft is a stick and to break a stick easiest you hold both ends and push in the middle. So it would seem safer to pop the ends out first and then head for the middle incrementally. no?
@@MrShakamuni01 When you break a stick in the middle, like over your knee for instance, you are pulling both loose ends across a solid object. In the case of the camshaft, that solid object would be the center main. But again, you should be doing all of the tightening and loosening INCREMENTALLY which means you should never see that much pressure on any one of the caps.
Thanks a lot.. I guess I'm just exxcited to get in my first. Dsm awd I drive wrx but just ggot rid of it. :( I know WWHEN I DO find the rightt chassis if I have any q's I will. Be referencing to your videos or ask you through email thanks so. Much keep on keepun oon
does anybody no if i can switch parts from one cylinder head to another,lifter springs i have new valves,thge one i got from junk yard cams are good lifertr are good but the survaces is corrared the coolant ports n all on vw passt 1.8
Just wondering doesnt the camshaft have bearing to be installed like chevy small engine block. I assume over head cam doesnt have beraing, please advise.
It doesn't matter which way you do it as long as it's done evenly so that the valve spring load is evenly released. Breaking them all loose a half turn at first before removing them helps with that. But anyway, unless a service manual specifies the removal order, just be consistent and gentle when you're removing them and you'll be fine.
don't mean to butt in Fro... but it seems to me that some of the most comprehensive teachers i've ever met have been ADD or ADHD or just frick'n hyper... anyway thanks ALOT.
Hay Jarfo in another video you explained what the makings at 9:24 in this vid mean I cant seem to find the video could you or someone point me un the right direction
I guess it's easier to clean the G6K because of the oil gallery plugs? Plus it has a deeper teardrop, but if you're going to modify the teardrop anyway, that doesn't matter. My biased side says the early '95 version (G6K). I don't think the changes that occurred on the G6S had anything to do with performance. Looks to me like a materials/cost bunch of changes. It's just a little bit less aluminum and 2 less oil gallery plugs. 2 less holes to tap and drill. Wait... 4 less holes because of the cam position sensor. Also, the cam angle sensor you're planning to use should help you steer your choice. Do you want a cam angle sensor hanging off the passenger side, or not? You can do it either way with the 95/96 heads... but the whole "hidden-behind-the-cam-gear" thing is pretty cool on a show car.
You need the head, intake manifold, wiring harness, and ECU from a '95/96, then. With sensors. Basically the top-half of the engine. You can use anything below it from any year with the right preparations, but that will provide you with the tidiest, most un-cluttered head start on that. Get a 6-bolt bottom end and your setup will match mine for the GSX. I pulled GSX parts out of storage yesterday. More is coming soon.
One connects to a cam angle sensor and the other one doesn't. So one has a slot and that's your intake cam. This is assuming you're talking about a 90-99 DSM.
My machine shop guy has been great to me. He delt with me when i had absolutely no idea what i was doing about 9 years ago to now that i am knowledgeable and have done a lot of engine work. Now he likes to have conversations with me instead of trying to talk to one another like we are speaking another language lol. Point is,its good to have a good machine shop and a good relationship with the person running it.
Same here. JafroMobile's videos mesmerize me. I think a lot of it has to do with how quick he can talk and work. It's not slow and boring to follow. It's fast paced and methodical. If there's something I didn't understand I have the luxury of replaying that section. Unlike TV there's no need to go slow on UA-cam. Everyone can digest the same material at their own pace. People that recognize that do very well on UA-cam. Jafro is one of them. :)
Dear Cylinder Head Man.
In the start of your Video, You keep the information SIMPLE. To the point an straight forward. Job well done sir, There's so many
people out there that mis the boat. Keep up the good work..
I don't even own a DSM, nor do I even live in America but I always get a little bit excited inside whenever I see another video from you.
Jafro is the best mechanic on the youtube. He makes everything looks so easy.
Good common sense breakdown. Some know more or less than you, but you know how to lay it down for those who don’t and that is why I like this channel. You don’t make assumptions we know it all!😊👍🏻
Thank you so mach for your video. I studied mechanic 20 years ago and honestly I almost forgot everything.
This video truly made my day. I don't think you will ever know how much but thank you! I can't wait to see more rebuilds from you and I'll hopfully do my own with help from your channel.
Thanks so much for taking the time to produce such videos. Absolutely awesome to learn from!
i have a mazda bpt approaching 300,000 kms, new head gasket and cambelt on the way, your videos are awesome, refreshing my memory about all the porting and processes ill have to be doing. i can tell the job will consume many hours and dollars more than j already anticipate
Great videos man! Thanks for sharing - I can never learn enough. About to learn how to Helicoil a manifold stud back in. Took me two days to get new WH1C/T3 mani setup in, just to pull back off to fix head stud. Cams & springs are next - your vids will help for sure, thanks.
One fun fact to know is that cams are hardened to the point of being pretty brittle. Nature of the beast. I worked in an auto parts store that dealt with a lot of engine parts. Cams came out of the box snapped in half all the time. Treat them like glass, just to be safe.
I know lol, reason being because I'm about to install some used non-ticking 3rd revised lifters (that I got for $20 off DSMTuners) onto a 90' 6-bolt head and was just curious. And I just found out that the Evo crowd has problems with ticking lifters as well.
BTW Thanks mate, your videos are so helpful to the DSM world and also to people who are fans of engines no matter what size. RIP little Civic Dude.
I'm actually building a Colt now with a 6bolt 4g63. Only driven 62k miles.
Going to be competing in rallycross.
Great tip on using a tap when the bolt was put in with red loctite!
This video is ahead of its time
Wicked detail! This would have come in handy 8 years ago when my timing belt went (for the second time)
Thank you mha man, you got yourself a new subscriber 🎉
You are a DSM GOD... wish I have skills and knowledge like you....
Thanks! Just to be clear. The head is still attached to the engine block on the vehicle. I want to remove the head from the vehicle while not having to remove the sprockets because they are a bear. I'll let the machine shop work on that if the need to. Right?
Thanks so much!
16 minutes up and already rendered 1080 HD? Sweet!
Hello from 2020
Yea, i figured spring upgrades might have to go with a cam upgrade, but how aggressive is to aggressive? Straight 272s or 280s? And how good are hks springs?
You get a lot points (from me) for video production - very well executed.
Like the fact your explaining as you go on because i'm a Auto Motive Engine Systems student
Love the videos, information, experience... Also, THANK YOU for not wasting viewers' time! The editing is great! I just wish this kind of channel was available for the NISSAN VQ35DE engine. Anyways, keep up the good work.
If you take out the valve lifters and didnt number them, how do you know where each one goes back again, this is on a 93 Lexus GS300 cylinder head. Thanks
Hey jafro, what internals did you end up using for your complete rebuild?
I love you. Would pay money to take this class from you
Wyatt Kulak jafro has a patreon now!
Those ice cube trays are proper handy, were did you get those? Just made for a 16 valve head job. Cling film is a nice idea too, I never watch one of your videos and not learn something new.Is this the beginning of the engine for your colt?
very helpful video.. I have an 88 foxbody and just trying to get a good idea on how to replace my cam lifters on my own, thanks
This is a fantastic video. Love it!.
BIG Thumbs up and subbed
thanks for replying am going to check spark plugs wired I have check the compression I just want to know what it is before I rebuild thanks again .
where do you get all the machine spec's ???? all data???
Great video, very useful, thanks. btw, What camera are you using?
I saw the engine in the colt, but I havnt seen it run or drive so i wasnt sure if you were just mocking it up, or what. Please tell me you dont have videos of it all ready and i somehow missed them? I always follow your channel, so sorry if I missed it.
on the rockers do they all have the same hole size because i have one thats a little smaller than the others
Thanks, this was an great video, now I think I have the confidence to replace my own dodgy lifters.
That was psychedelic ending. It made my head wobble. :]
This really helped in changing the lifters on my car haha, thanks!
i am doing head gasket replacement on a 2001 xterra and I need to have the cylinder heads removed and machined. i am having a hard time getting the cam sprokets removed and I wonder if I can just remove the head with the cam sprockets attached like you did and have the machine shop remove them if necessary. Thanks
Great videos... Wish you would do another set on a different motor.
Excellent video bro definitely worth watching
Great video Jafromobile. This will help me out a lot.
Jafro, I went searching for when you switched from a standard plywood benchtop surface to a facade of easy to clean mild steel and even easier to clean brown paper. It turns out that it was some time between this video and the driveshaft 105 video, its a shame that you didn't film the benchtop upgrade, just to have seen that footage.
is it 14 or 16 gauge btw, I was kind of looking to see if you have that footage because I want to surface my own benchtop
I'm on this video because I recently purchased a JDM Evo VI (I live in Canada which is how they're legal) and basically want to learn as much as I can about the 4G63 engine before I eventually do a cam & valve spring/retainer swap and a complete teardown-rebuild way down the road. It seems like a nice basic engine to be able to pull apart which is why I feel confident doing it. By profession, I'm an AME (fancy acronym for aircraft mechanic) and when I was in school we had to disassemble and rebuild a basic piston aircraft engine. In regards to the bearing surfaces, have you ever heard of a caution to not touch them with bare fingers? In school they wouldn't let us touch them due to the oil from our fingers causing accelerated corrosion. I'll be wearing gloves either way, I was just curious cause I've never seen a video where people paid any attention to that.
Hahah, Yeahp. Check out my Hyundai Elantra Shortblock Assembly video. Gloved all the way. I don't touch them either. Acids in your skin will etch the bearings. Nice tip! ;)
I have a question: if there is some lite scoring in the cam journal from the lack of lubrication, is there a repair for this? The scoring can be felt with the thumbnail.
How important is it that you keep the rockers and lash adjusters in order?
That is a reall sweet idea you have there with the ice cube trays! that is cool=)
I find this to be a very informative video and explained great.
If you wanted to change out cams, all you would have to do is remove the old ones and put the new ones in without toiching the lifters rockers and valves? Is there a way to line up the cam lobes etc? Thanks
Would this work on any newer DOC or would this be outdated?
Would you be able to show a video on how to degree the cams on a 4g63 engine. Its very confusing with it having hydraulic lifters
Really good, loved this.
Very smart move with the Ice cube trays ;)
thank you for a great video..you are very easy to follow!!
NEED HELP/ADVICE, I accidently turned my head on its side and all the rocker arms fell out, it is also a dohc, I realized I shouldn't just place them back in how ever and go on about my way trying to run the engine, so im wondering what I can do or if a shop or mechanic can even fix this?
Hey Jafro, Are are those 3g lifters? Would you recommend them over Evo lifters?
hey jafro im so glad i found you i already subscribed im buying a 96 2g talon 420a n/a fwd(boring) got my buddies talon that he totaled the body but is going to sell me his 6 bolt 4g63t that he has alread done a few bolt ons to, tiwn turbo exhaust rear end ect... if you can send me the 2nd video of the balnce shaft elimnator that would be awesome because i canoot find it thanks
nice idea with the ice cube trays :)
Hey, you should give us the specs on your valve spring tool so we can make one!
please can you help about mess up lifters how can order backup
Hey u do the best videos on dsms but do u have any on the 4g37 ?
I took a cylinder head off the other day and remembered not to sit it down on the valve side, however it was an OHV engine therefore the camshaft wasn't pushing the valves open so it didn't really matter. Still good practice though
How about a video on how to chose a machine shop?
very interesting videos! very knowledgable!
Jafro,
I love your videos man. Your so smart an know so much about cars. I wish i knew just a much as you did. I have a few questions if you could answer please. I recently bought i 1986 Toyota Supra, and i ran into a few problems that i would like to get your advice on. Oh an the car as 169k miles on it, So heres what she told me about the car. The car has been sitting for about 8 months the motor stopped running because she said the engine seized, but before the engine seized she blew a head gasket an got it repaired, an afterwards the car drove fine for about a week an the motor seized on her. So the first thing i did when i looked at the car was checked the oil an there was oil on the dip stick an was just about full, so i thought that was a good sign. At the time i could not started the car or even try to because the battery was dead. So i purchased the car from her thinking that the motor probably was not seized because the oil was fine an that the engine stopped running because she blew another head gasket. Which i figured worst case senerio the head was warped an maybe the block as well. So i just got the head back from the machine shop a couple days ago and the head was warped, So i asked them to do a surface job on it, pressure check it, an clean it up as well check my valves. They machined it an everything looked good. Ok, question #1 can i reuse my camshafts/cam caps if there is some scoring an rough spots on them? can the machine shop buff/machine the rough an scoring out of them? If so will that messing up my oil clearences between the camshafts an caps and the head? Or should i get new cams an caps? If i get new cams/caps do i new to get a brand new head as well? because there is also scoring/roughness on the head where the cams sit. #2 As the head was in the shop i was working on pulling the block an unbolting the transmission. To unbolt the transmission from the block i must first unbolt 7 bolts from the flywheel from the torque converter as well some outter bolts too. To do this i must unbolt 2 bolts at a time an then rotate the crankshaft an repeat. Well when i tried to rotate the crankshaft i realized that the crankshaft didnt not want to move. Now i put alot of force on trying to rotate the crankshaft an it still didnt not want to turn over. Which makes me think that the engine was really seized. Which i dont understand why... There is oil in the engine, so i know its not oil starved, could there be a possiblity of rust seizing the pistons as the car sat for 7-8 months with the blown head? when i did remove the head i did notice on piston #1 there was coolant sitting on top of it. If the engine is seized how can i get it unseized? Or break the pistons loose so i can rotate the crankshaft freely? I need to unseize the engine to rotate the crankshaft to unbolt the transmission, so i can pull the block an take it to the machine shop. Oh the engine is a 7mge 3.0 v6. Ive heard people using penatrating oil an spray the pistions or tranmission oil, or power steering fuild. As of this moment i am using penatrating oil on the pistons. Ive filled each of them with about a inch of it. It as been sitting for a couple days now a i still cannot move the crankshaft. What do i do? Please help Jafro! Love ya. Keep up the videos.
Pull the oil pan. You'll likely find your answer at a glance. If it sat full of water and rusted itself together, you'll know immediately. Rod/bearing problem? Immediately. If it was a problem with the pistons you'd have most likely noticed that with the head off.
I don't know what I can tell you about your head over the internet. People ask me to diagnose things all the time that there's no possible way I can answer without handling the parts, but I would advise you to let your machine shop deal with that.
Hey Jafro i just wanted to say thank you for the advice. I did find my problem when i pulled the oil pan.. A quickl up date. I just pulled the block a few days ago an just pulled the pistons out today, and WOOOW. I could not BELIEVE what i saw in clyinder #6. Ive never seen something so amazing, yet so horrifying at the sametime. I wish i could send you a picture of what i saw. Anyways Thank you an hope to see some new videos upload soon. Peace out.
It works like a charm every time! ;) I take it the bottom end problem wasn't caused by the head?...
...or did it dump coolant and/or drop a valve?
My recommendation? Post a video! :o
Yea the head wasnt the problem. So it was the piston in cylinder #6. Well actually it was the rod cap bearing it pretty much in peices. Which was stopping the crank from moving freely. Its so bad that the metal shaving from the bearing are EVERYWHERE on the crank journal, an part of the bearing is actually stuck to the crank journal. Yea maybe i will make a video tomorrow an post it so you can see what im talking about.
what all do you need to install aftermarket camshafts and cam gears?
I would suggest watching Cylinder Head 205 and 206. All the dirt on DOHC valve timing can be found there. The most important thing you will need aside from that knowledge is patience.
okay I guess it's time to re-watch old jafro videos
dumb question but i've been meaning to ask. where should you use loctite and where should you use anti sieze?
Loctite is usally used on pulleys and other objects moving with high rpms where it is critical if the bolt or nut become loose and is used on places you rarely have to take apart. Before loctite was invented lock tab washers was used instead. Most of the time it is stated in the shop manual if it should be used.
Anti sieze is used as a rust inhibitor mostly on parts of the car that is exposed to the elements such as wheelbolts and brake caliber bolts/components that if not used can be a pain to remove because of rust.
I hope this answers your question :)
IVE NEVER SEEN ANYONE DO THAT FOCUS CHANGE LIKE THAT, AND THAT WAS FUNNY! YOUR SO WEIRD, ME TOO.
thank you for doing this brother, your a good man, people need more guys to teach, and keep it all about the lesson, cause we can't keep makin moreon.. and with lesson, theres no moreon.
brilliant ,this video made my day .good stuff here
Awsome! =) Always good to learn more thanks again.
So why would the bucket lifter need adjustment or replacement if needed
so even if i have the entire 4g3t with awd driveline will not work... i guess its back to craiglist, only reason i was going to get it is because it ran and i could drive it home from a long distance that i gotta get it from
HOly shit this was worth my time.
This is just the beginning! Wait until you get to the DOHC valve timing video. Your head asplode. Srsly.
agreed good vids, can't wait til my head asplodes.
Jafromobile, I'm a big fan of your vids. Are you in business to fix 4g63 for customers officially ? or you're just a hobbyist / youtuber? I may somehow use you. My 4g63 been sitting for 5 years...
You're cool. Can I come to your house?
jafro is the man!
soo i have to look for plymouth laser awd T/gsx eclipse/ tsi awd talon or an evo to get this to work out.. i just cant pass up a 4g63t built AND driveline for 800
Any mechanics out there.. I have a 1998 f150 4.6L v8 that's ticking and the truck is shaking. The ticking is coming from the passenger side around the valve cover which is also right next to the fuel injectors and spark plugs. The spark plugs were replaced with iridium ones and wires were replaced but i'm skeptical about misfire due to the plugs because they're not individual coils. Its 2 coil packs 4 running off each. And it seems to me to be dual overhead cams which take out the possibility of lifters. So my hunch is a bent rocker arm. Im just wondering if anyone else has some insight on this. Also the tick changes with the revolutions.
REIA
I enjoy watching your videos, I do have a question. I see all these videos about head etc.. No matter what u type in, I cannot get an answer. Or video rather. My son blew a head gasket 2001 eclipse 4G64 G6E2 head. SOHC. I own a body shop and pain I DONT claim to build these types of engines. Give me a 327 any day. My question IS, how do remove the camshaft itself. I've taken everything off labeled ething, Im very conscious about being neat & clean ocd crap. But I know i gotta get the dang pulley (Gear) to remove, does the cam slide out from gear side, and what type of groved inset is that on the cam sensor side when I took the cover off and sensor out. I'm guessing the gear comes off and slide the cam out thats way. I dont have a flat bat or square BUT i used sumthn else and see its warped. IDK how much, Dont have a feeler gauge, and NEVER......EVER Loan ur tools to even ur friends. over 12k in tols gone and so is he. Specialty tools of the pant n body trade and minor engine work. I figure since I ONLY watch URs and 1 other guys videos I'd ask you 1st. Im a muscle car man and i do rebuild the old goodies But Help me Plz. OH, big Quest as to why IM ASKN..... I had the Eclipse on the paint shop side of garage at home, and a curtain seperates the 2. I was grinding and my son took a friend to show him the head, ts was also covered up. A cpl hrs later I just had a gut feeln to ck the head and it was NOT covered AND I did see metal in on the head. I had already taken rockers off, I noticed that while lookn at the head 2 valves in #2 were out 3/16 maybe and #3 cylinder had 2 valvesd down a but, alomst didnt see that, is that a prob? I dont see anything bent, i see 1 valve that I took out had maybe 1/2 inch of a rub look on the stem, im guessn rubbn the seat?? Any way, Im sorry to bug ya, I guess I simply wanna know now that I see all the lil metal shavings in the head if soakn and sprayn it down will be ok OR do I have to Remove the cam and clean. Summary> 2001 Eclipse 2.4 SOHC 46G4 Engine & G6E2 aluminum head, im sure u know that. duh. Gotta How much does your machine shops shave a head for 40 bux?? Thank Jaf Keep up the Great Videos , Chuck
The cam is bolted down with cam caps. Once you remove all the cam caps, you should be able to lift it straight up. If it fights you, it's because the cam seal has RTV sort of gluing down the timing side. On pushrod engines like what's found in a 67 Corvette or a 72 Impala (you said 327 :P), cam journals are bigger than the lobes, and that's why you can slide them in and out on pushrod motors. On most OHV engines, it's cam caps bolting them down. You can leave the gear on it to remove it, but installing the cam seal requires that it's removed. You should find a hex cast into the cam. Grab onto that thing with a monkey wrench, and hit the cam bolt with an impact driver and it will bust loose. Fortunately he blew a head gasket, so you're removing the head. If you haven't removed lifters, all the contamination is in the crankcase region and can easily be washed out without contaminating oil galleries once you remove it. Check out my DIY parts washer video. ;)
The thing is, there are NO cam caps. Thats what i was so confused about. I took the rockers and valve springs and and pushed the valves thru Marking all of em Exact place. Its got the cam gear (for timing belt) and other end, behind the CPS theres a weird looking IDK what to call it. Maybe splined 2 grooves. I was assuming take gear off and slide it all the way thru ..... It certainly doesnt lifet up and does NOT have cam caps. Im sorry. Weird huh So many DOHC and NO SOHC videos on dissasembly most are same EXCEPT, until u get cam out.
extremepainter65 I'll eat my words. None of those instructions will work on a 2001 4g64. In 2000, Mitsubishi switched production from the SIRIUS I to the SIRIUS II platform, then began developing their MIVEC platform on it. The instructions I gave you were for the 19xx-1999 engines. I've never worked on either version of the SOHCs beyond a tune-up, but looking up the camshaft it appears that the cam journals are bigger than the lobes. So yeah, those slide in and out but I don't have any idea how? That means that camshaft essentially has it's own thrust bearing, but I have no idea how it's removed? Best bet would be to buy the service manual, really. All my experience is SIRIUS I DOHC stuff. The DSM years. 2000+ there was no contract partnership arrangement and Mitsubishi had already sold their manufacturing equipment to Hyundai. The platform you're working on had just changed over.
Thanks Jaf for the input, I knew I hadnt lost my mind about that camshaft coming out. Your really smart guy who knows those 63 DOHC for sure, very nice videos. The Haynes manuals are ignorant, for those torque specs. I just dont get it. Im tryn to get the head surface clean to check if its to far gone, I hear its 4 thousands, and IF more than 2 its gotta be shaved?? Gotta get those feeler gauges and flat bar, square, and ck it and block. Cast block should be ok, but I gotta ck and aluminum head, i know is warped, and needs to be cut down. Son's gettn lazy on me, and I said, longer it takes the worse the walls are getting, even though i did coat em with oil, still those dang stains i just dont like it. Ive seen worse on videos but THANK YOU for the follow up. You should get a G6E2 head and video that being taken of and apart, or atleast taken apart and cleaned the way you do the DOHC older versions. I'm sure I'll figure it out, or just let my friend cut it down flat b4 i assemble it. I just like doing my own work, its a pride thing.
Is the metal elbow attached to the top of the aluminum thermostat housing on these 2.3L dual cam engines removable to allow a new seal to be installed? My Ranger engine has a slow leak that comes up around the heater hose elbow. I've tried block sealers, and they don't work for long. Thanks...
Yeah, I can't speak for the Ford/Mazda platform specifically, but on most cars it comes apart with 2 or 3 bolts. The bolts aren't super-tight. Like only 12-14lbs. There's a thermostat and a gasket sandwiched between them. Do that job yourself and it's typically under $15 + coolant. Don't over-honk the bolts putting it back together.
That totally didn't answer your question. I just re-read it. I don't know how to help you with your specific engine?
I don't mean the plastic housing that has the bolts for mounting to the aluminum block. Its actually located further back under the intake manifold in a porthole through the metal. Thanks
That's kind of what I meant. The 4g63 engine in this video has an aluminum 3-piece machined aluminum housing stuck together with RTV and one gasket. If it's a 95-99, then there's 2 gaskets. But on all Mitsubishi engines from 1.5L-2.4L the heater hose connection is press-fit and then welded into the housing so there is no gasket. It's nothing like you described.
i just found a 90 msyelf auto in western mass, the thing is i live in mass, thats a long distance for a roller
Whats the weight of this whole assembly? And weight of cylinder without head?
Anybody knows?
1 other question, the car sat 2 weeks and when i pulled the head, its got stains on the cylinder walls, yellowish kinda, no rust, just enuf to see it and your finger can feel it. Im not pulling engine and I've prepped the deck and even took my long file board and sanded it, after razor blading it and brake kleen. Looks nice its the walls im concerned about. I stuffed rags while cleaning deck and now have oil on the walls. While im tryn to figure out what to do with the head. Take to my machine guy and have him do it all, then I can put it back on car. My sons ruined my paint shop garage.NOW IM TAKING CUSTOMERS CARS TO SHOP. These were small body n paint jobs for friends n neighbors, Im about ready to push the Eclipse outside, its a shame, ran like a bat outta hell. 5 speed awesome. He bought it 9 months ago. Bad radiator caused this, and him NOT listening to me, as my other kids about maintenance on their vehicles. Sorry to ramble on.
The radiator blew because of the head gasket. The cylinder wall contamination could be a ring problem, or it could be from the coolant milkshake inside the crankcase. I'd measure the bores to determine this. Check the ring gap. Check the piston to cylinder wall clearance. If it hits spec on all tests and the crosshatches are still there, it may wipe clean with mineral spirits or ATF and you can re-use those rings. If you're going to replace the rings, give those bores a hone. Don't replace the rings if you're not honing it or they won't seal right. Don't hone it if you're not replacing the rings.
Its only stained at 2/3 , the down stroke pistons, 1/4 look sweet. The gasket around Cylinder 1 @ piston top at comp stroke, The gasket actually has a 1/4 inch cut in it But piston looks aok and walls looks ok. The valves look ok. Its only got maybe 1800 miles on it, son bought off CL, I drove it home, bought 45 miles home, real stought 5 sp. Any other ideas. Even my alldata says no cam caps, YET wont tell me how to remove the dam cam idk...Im losing my mind and tying up my garage, when I should be fabricating & painting. Thank you Jaf
Sorry Jaf, No I'm not taking pistons out. Walls look good. If u shave the head, obviiously ur valves are gonna be closer to pistons, what head gasket do u recommend i use? Ive used ATF and yellowish/green stains are still there, shame too, its so dang clean Yet i can see that stain. If it was mine, Sure id pull ther engine and do it from bottom ta top Ething. This is sons mess, after I told him b4 driving it ething should be and needs to be ckd, fluids etc.. Torque specs are all messed up.... 1 says 58 ft lbs then 90 degree and anutha 90 degree and 2nd 72 ft lbs and 90 degree and anutha 90 degree. 1 says tighten to 58 ft lbs and then Completely loosen ALL bolts then tighten to 14 ft lbs Who would say that and why>????
Is there a way to adjust the timing without marks? I took the chain out and my stupidity allowed me to turn the the sprocket s individually, which turned the cams. Now I have no idea where I am at. Call me an idiot because I am. 2015 Chev malibu 2.5
What is the logic of removing the cam caps from the center out to the side.? Have an imagine the most pressure would be in the middle of the camshaft instead of on the sides.
Think about how much pressure would be on the center (with 8 valve springs on either side) if you took it loose last. It would focus the energy from both sides directly in the center of the part. It would have half as much material length to take all that spring pressure. When you take the ends loose last. That pressure gets spread over the entire length of the part. Either way, putting them on or taking them off, you're supposed to do it incrementally anyway.
@@Jafromobile Hmmm I don't know much about car mechanics but basic logic says that the camshaft is a stick and to break a stick easiest you hold both ends and push in the middle. So it would seem safer to pop the ends out first and then head for the middle incrementally. no?
@@MrShakamuni01 When you break a stick in the middle, like over your knee for instance, you are pulling both loose ends across a solid object. In the case of the camshaft, that solid object would be the center main. But again, you should be doing all of the tightening and loosening INCREMENTALLY which means you should never see that much pressure on any one of the caps.
Thanks a lot.. I guess I'm just exxcited to get in my first. Dsm awd I drive wrx but just ggot rid of it. :( I know WWHEN I DO find the rightt chassis if I have any q's I will. Be referencing to your videos or ask you through email thanks so. Much keep on keepun oon
does anybody no if i can switch parts from one cylinder head to another,lifter springs i have new valves,thge one i got from junk yard cams are good lifertr are good but the survaces is corrared the coolant ports n all on vw passt 1.8
Just wondering doesnt the camshaft have bearing to be installed like chevy small engine block. I assume over head cam doesnt have beraing, please advise.
is that really the correct order to remove the cam caps ?
I was wondering the same ... I just did it starting from the outside cause it makes more sense imo. Opposite as assembling
Aren't you supposed to remove the bolts in the opposite sequence of the installation ?
It doesn't matter which way you do it as long as it's done evenly so that the valve spring load is evenly released. Breaking them all loose a half turn at first before removing them helps with that. But anyway, unless a service manual specifies the removal order, just be consistent and gentle when you're removing them and you'll be fine.
@@Jafromobile Thanks DSM brother !
don't mean to butt in Fro... but it seems to me that some of the most comprehensive teachers i've ever met have been ADD or ADHD or just frick'n hyper... anyway thanks ALOT.
at 1:18 there is a spider hanging near the sprocket poor thing
Well done.
I got a Mazda 3 2006 2.3 l i bought a new head but there's no camshaft bearings does it take them
Nope. The cam journals just use oil as the bearing. ;)
@@Jafromobile hey thank you I appreciate that
Grrreeeeat !
Como cambiar la juntas del motor de un Toyota Camry 1993
Hay Jarfo in another video you explained what the makings at 9:24 in this vid mean I cant seem to find the video could you or someone point me un the right direction
It's in Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech. ;)
@@Jafromobile witch do you recommend and why
I guess it's easier to clean the G6K because of the oil gallery plugs? Plus it has a deeper teardrop, but if you're going to modify the teardrop anyway, that doesn't matter. My biased side says the early '95 version (G6K). I don't think the changes that occurred on the G6S had anything to do with performance. Looks to me like a materials/cost bunch of changes. It's just a little bit less aluminum and 2 less oil gallery plugs. 2 less holes to tap and drill. Wait... 4 less holes because of the cam position sensor. Also, the cam angle sensor you're planning to use should help you steer your choice. Do you want a cam angle sensor hanging off the passenger side, or not? You can do it either way with the 95/96 heads... but the whole "hidden-behind-the-cam-gear" thing is pretty cool on a show car.
@@Jafromobileya my goal is to have a very clean engine bay
You need the head, intake manifold, wiring harness, and ECU from a '95/96, then. With sensors. Basically the top-half of the engine. You can use anything below it from any year with the right preparations, but that will provide you with the tidiest, most un-cluttered head start on that. Get a 6-bolt bottom end and your setup will match mine for the GSX. I pulled GSX parts out of storage yesterday. More is coming soon.
Please help I got my cams mixed up is there marking on them to which way they go back in
One connects to a cam angle sensor and the other one doesn't. So one has a slot and that's your intake cam. This is assuming you're talking about a 90-99 DSM.
If the gears are on them, one is stamped I and the other E. The cams themselves should have these markings if they're OEM.
@@Jafromobile thanks for the reply but it's a 05 Kia Sedona and one rod has a R1 and the other has 28 45 stamped on it
@@ttvjxnsfn8154 ...and neither cam connects to a cam angle sensor?