@@reza_dc2 Not so much hard as fiddly. Needed the right combination of wobble sockets and extensions to reach everything. Once all that was figured out then it was just unbolting stuff which wasn’t too bad, then wiggling the whole thing out of the car.
Thanks for uploading this video. Removing the valve body was genius. Like the other commenter I almost did the whole subframe drop/ remove tower brace deal. This worked great this weekend. I didn’t disconnect the line from the rack though. I left the bolts off the valve body after putting it back on. I was able to rotate it slightly to reconnect each line one at a time then put the bolts in and tightened them.
Dude, I was racking my brains out watching the damn Acura Tech video, who didn't show all the stuff that REALLY NEEDED to be removed to do the job. THANK YOU for showing us how to dis-assemble the rack to get that damn thing out and back in! THAT was a HUGE LIFESAVER!!!!!!!! AWESOMWE vid!!!!!
I just want to add to this for anyone doing this, it's not hard at all to do in your garage. However I don't recommend replacing with aftermarket. Get a OEM replacement only. Maybe it was just my experience but I replaced 3 times an aftermarket one from Oriely's that leaked out of the seals. I think this would be one of those components you want to replace with a original equipment.
About to do this on my car and make a video on it aswell, thanks for the info! Some parts seems a tad confusing but I have my transmission out rn too for a clutch job so maybe easier for me
hey I just wanted to thank you for your video and replys. I just got finished changing one of these out and taking off the gearbox saved a ton of work compared to the tsb I had from Acura where they had you dropping the subframe. took me about 5 hours should have been 4 but I got one of the lines on the wrong side of the assembly so I ended up having to take the whole line out and reinstall it. still with it for the $$$$ I saved.
I'm currently doing exactly that on my Canadian TSX, I have to cut every single bolts as they are all seized, what a pain in the ass. Your car look 100 times better than mine.
Seems to be an easy task does not look to difficult, I'm planning on changing out my rack and pinion as well since it has gone bad grinding and it has become very stiff thanks for the video tutorial Tsab
man, that was fast I gotta keep watching until I know I can do it myself. So, I don't need to drop the sub frame and all that. this one save a lot of time.
I've got an 05 TSX that's needed a rack and pinion for almost a decade. I've noticed lots of ppl have had this problem and Acura should have recalled this because the seals are garbage on the 1st Gen TSX and they know it but of course they wouldn't admit much an expensive problem!
Working on this now.. how the hell do you get that back mounting bolt out without using a swivel socket? I have no room to get any leverage let alone turn the wrench. I’ve got all the bolts out except for this one
Getting ready to do this on my 2004. Have watched several videos and will take the best of each and see how that works out. I did buy the 4 x6 to drop the sub frame but will give Tsab's method a shot first. Will update when I finish.
Thanks so much for this video. I have to replace mine at this time. I almost have the old rack out and have taken out the bolts to the valve body. It's loose and it's wiggling but I can seem to pull it off. Do i have to turn it a certain direction for removal?
@@edwinruiz2834 Hey man! Yes I did. It took me about two days to get the bolts to finally catch. They had to line up precisely to turn and it was a real pain but I got it to work!
Hi I have a 04 TSX with almost a 146,000 miles and im suspecting my rack and pinon is bad. For months I have been complaining about poor handling and loose/vague steering to my dealer and have so far replaced the rear control arms, driver side ball joint, bushings, and front end links. I then took the car to a independent shop and they claim its my rack and pinon. The car does still wander and the steering still feels loose yet when I took it back to my dealer and even went back to the shop there was no huge leak like in your video but I still have symptoms. What should I do at this point and if it needs to be replaced what are my options?
ATLEAGLE579 some time rack n pinion leak it still good but this Acura does have problem so if I am you I will replace it. Thanks for stop by my channel hope you help subscribe to my channel.
This is great but when you disassemble the new part it voids the warranty. It's just better to drop the sub frame and install the part in one piece. It's only a few bolts on each side and you don't have to remove the bolts on the passenger side. Just loosen halfway.
Thanks for the reply I gotta do this this weekend but the tech bulliten I got from Acura has you dropping the subframe and calls for 2 brackets I got some angle iron and was gonna weld something up but I'll try it like this first
Hi love the video, thanks in advance if your able to answer my question. I have replaced all my steering and suspension components (ball joints, tie rods, control arms, shocks) and i still have a knocking and clunking sound when i turn out of my driveway. Could this be caused by the rack and pinion? I dont know what other component could be causing it since i replaced everything else. When i let off the brake at a stop light the steering wheel moves just a little bit. I have same year tsx.
Check all sway bar bushing, and the sway bar linkage. Also reinspect all nuts and bolts make sure it tighten. Report back if need more answer. Thanks for watching.
@@alltsab Wow so i found out what was the cause of the popping and clunking..... My upper control arm bolt was trying to wiggle out, luckily on our cars the spring stops it. Jeez that could have been bad! 😅
I took apart the assembly the way you did that connects to the steeering and cannot put it back in to the rack and pinion any suggestions??? Thanks great video by the way
I have a question im replacing mine now, and why do you mark the steering wheel to the old rack? Like why did u mark it if the new rack is not gonna be marked to match
You can counts by the turn left to right or right to left and measure where is the center. The rack came from the manufacturer is very much center already. If not cent on your steering you can loose the steering shaft above your paddle and align it to center.
Hey have. I almost have this job completed but I can't seem to get the lower cylinder line on the back of the valve body to reconnect. The flare nut is giving me trouble. Any tips?
Thx for the upload. I would definitely do this if i had the time. Currently i got a quote for 450dollars in Arizona for a refurbished install. Is this reasonable for those of you who've got it done?
Good job on the acura. Im curious are u from fresno. Im from fresno and i need my rack an pinion replaced but dnt have the tools. If u have the time Would u be able to help me out i could pay u. If not thanks anyways.
Followed this video to change the rack and pinion on my wife’s Acura at the weekend. It worked out great. Thanks for the guide!
was it a pretty tough job?
@@reza_dc2 Not so much hard as fiddly. Needed the right combination of wobble sockets and extensions to reach everything. Once all that was figured out then it was just unbolting stuff which wasn’t too bad, then wiggling the whole thing out of the car.
@@paulrawlins5868 appreciate the heads up
How did u get the valve body back on the rack ?
@@alexgutierrez762 Sorry, it’s been so long I don’t remember how I did it
Thanks for uploading this video. Removing the valve body was genius. Like the other commenter I almost did the whole subframe drop/ remove tower brace deal. This worked great this weekend. I didn’t disconnect the line from the rack though. I left the bolts off the valve body after putting it back on. I was able to rotate it slightly to reconnect each line one at a time then put the bolts in and tightened them.
2011joser i am glad you find my video helpful
I disconnected the valve body and can’t get it back on, anybody know why that is ?
@@alexgutierrez762 you ever figure it out?
Dude, I was racking my brains out watching the damn Acura Tech video, who didn't show all the stuff that REALLY NEEDED to be removed to do the job. THANK YOU for showing us how to dis-assemble the rack to get that damn thing out and back in! THAT was a HUGE LIFESAVER!!!!!!!! AWESOMWE vid!!!!!
Unwelcome
Thank You very much for taking the time to show another way of removing the rack and pinion without a lift .
You welcome
I just want to add to this for anyone doing this, it's not hard at all to do in your garage. However I don't recommend replacing with aftermarket. Get a OEM replacement only. Maybe it was just my experience but I replaced 3 times an aftermarket one from Oriely's that leaked out of the seals. I think this would be one of those components you want to replace with a original equipment.
Oreilly's parts are rubbish. I used AC delco and its okay...
Heard nothing but bad when using aftermarket for the rack, get OEM, I'm doing this to my 07 this weekend, yippie
Rob Lund thanks for that because it looks like I’m doing it again. I’ll be going through Acura as well.
TOVASTY is it a good brand?
Good job man , doing it without dropping the sub frame. Awesome
About to do this on my car and make a video on it aswell, thanks for the info! Some parts seems a tad confusing but I have my transmission out rn too for a clutch job so maybe easier for me
you are the good man , i hope you are continues support engine and more , thank you ,
Covan Nguyen thank you
hey I just wanted to thank you for your video and replys. I just got finished changing one of these out and taking off the gearbox saved a ton of work compared to the tsb I had from Acura where they had you dropping the subframe. took me about 5 hours should have been 4 but I got one of the lines on the wrong side of the assembly so I ended up having to take the whole line out and reinstall it. still with it for the $$$$ I saved.
Thanks brother, I appreciate the tutorial.
I'm currently doing exactly that on my Canadian TSX, I have to cut every single bolts as they are all seized, what a pain in the ass. Your car look 100 times better than mine.
Salt maybe?
@@angeltavarez7555 Yes lol exactly
Seems to be an easy task does not look to difficult, I'm planning on changing out my rack and pinion as well since it has gone bad grinding and it has become very stiff thanks for the video tutorial Tsab
You very welcome
Great video. Now I have to go do this job.
man, that was fast I gotta keep watching until I know I can do it myself. So, I don't need to drop the sub frame and all that.
this one save a lot of time.
What kind of rack and opinion did you bought?
I've got an 05 TSX that's needed a rack and pinion for almost a decade. I've noticed lots of ppl have had this problem and Acura should have recalled this because the seals are garbage on the 1st Gen TSX and they know it but of course they wouldn't admit much an expensive problem!
True
Working on this now.. how the hell do you get that back mounting bolt out without using a swivel socket? I have no room to get any leverage let alone turn the wrench. I’ve got all the bolts out except for this one
That is a hateful job and you did it while filming. Props to you good sir!
what are some of the symptoms of a bad rack ; stiff , notchy steering?
Yes
Getting ready to do this on my 2004. Have watched several videos and will take the best of each and see how that works out. I did buy the 4 x6 to drop the sub frame but will give Tsab's method a shot first. Will update when I finish.
Lol good luck buddy I'm here to watch you....
Hey man just wondering how you doing, it's been a year and no update, is it really that hard let me know, hope you ok
Thanks so much for this video. I have to replace mine at this time. I almost have the old rack out and have taken out the bolts to the valve body. It's loose and it's wiggling but I can seem to pull it off. Do i have to turn it a certain direction for removal?
Sorry didn't respond in time. No you can put it in any direction.
Any tips on getting the lines on the back of the gear box back on? I'm turning the nut it cant seem catch.
@@jamieroseman4429 Did you by chance figure out how to reattach the 2 lines back?
@@edwinruiz2834 Hey man! Yes I did. It took me about two days to get the bolts to finally catch. They had to line up precisely to turn and it was a real pain but I got it to work!
@@jamieroseman4429 thanks!! I’ll give it a try
How did u get the valve body connect back to the rack ? The parts where the hard hose connect, please lmk asap
Keep playing or turn it make sure the teeth of the rack align with the gear shaft.
Hi I have a 04 TSX with almost a 146,000 miles and im suspecting my rack and pinon is bad. For months I have been complaining about poor handling and loose/vague steering to my dealer and have so far replaced the rear control arms, driver side ball joint, bushings, and front end links. I then took the car to a independent shop and they claim its my rack and pinon. The car does still wander and the steering still feels loose yet when I took it back to my dealer and even went back to the shop there was no huge leak like in your video but I still have symptoms. What should I do at this point and if it needs to be replaced what are my options?
ATLEAGLE579 some time rack n pinion leak it still good but this Acura does have problem so if I am you I will replace it. Thanks for stop by my channel hope you help subscribe to my channel.
This is great but when you disassemble the new part it voids the warranty. It's just better to drop the sub frame and install the part in one piece. It's only a few bolts on each side and you don't have to remove the bolts on the passenger side. Just loosen halfway.
The racks can fit both left and right side right? Bc it only says comes with one part not 2? So each rack can fit both sides?
Did you mean fit both right hand side drive and left hand side drive?
@@alltsab is it just one rack itself?
@@alltsab bc I thought it took 2
@@petervang5384 one rack only
what is that yellow piece when you removed the steering wheel column inside the car?
Did the new rack and pinion come with inner tie rod ends?
Yes
Thanks for the reply I gotta do this this weekend but the tech bulliten I got from Acura has you dropping the subframe and calls for 2 brackets I got some angle iron and was gonna weld something up but I'll try it like this first
Eric Schwartzkopf no problem just follow my video you should doing fine.
Hi love the video, thanks in advance if your able to answer my question. I have replaced all my steering and suspension components (ball joints, tie rods, control arms, shocks) and i still have a knocking and clunking sound when i turn out of my driveway. Could this be caused by the rack and pinion? I dont know what other component could be causing it since i replaced everything else. When i let off the brake at a stop light the steering wheel moves just a little bit. I have same year tsx.
Check all sway bar bushing, and the sway bar linkage. Also reinspect all nuts and bolts make sure it tighten. Report back if need more answer. Thanks for watching.
@@alltsab
I replaced the links as well, but did not check the sway bar bushings, will do that today in the next couple hours, thanks.
@@alltsab
Wow so i found out what was the cause of the popping and clunking..... My upper control arm bolt was trying to wiggle out, luckily on our cars the spring stops it. Jeez that could have been bad! 😅
@ 2:19, I removed the valve body but the steering shaft stays in it. Did your came out all at once? Was is hard to get out?
Very helpful
I took apart the assembly the way you did that connects to the steeering and cannot put it back in to the rack and pinion any suggestions??? Thanks great video by the way
Try to fit into the gear and use the 2 bolts slowly tight down.
@@alltsab i ended up doing that with the old bolts thank you again great video
So did u had to remove rear motormount?
Hello, how much Did you charge
I have a question im replacing mine now, and why do you mark the steering wheel to the old rack? Like why did u mark it if the new rack is not gonna be marked to match
Brandon Bassett I mark to count the tie rod only. If you don't mark you don't know where to start to count spot. Hope this help answer your question
Brandon Bassett You are correct. You should mark the new rack in the same place where you marked the old rack to the steering wheel shaft.
Great job!
did you support the engine?
Eric Schwartzkopf no all engine mounts there to hold the engine don't need to support the the engine. Thanks for asking.
Do u have any idea, when u replace and it hard to turn?
Not exactly but I think may be air in the system. Make sure you bleed it properly. Some aftermarket rack is not very good.
You're method didn't require dropping the subframe or removing the rear engine mount?
John Cruz yeah don't have to move any of those..
i have tried pushing the gear back in the rack but its not going in completely. Any way to do that ?
Make sure it fit in first before screw in. Just do exactly what you see I did you should ok.
How did you Center it?
You can counts by the turn left to right or right to left and measure where is the center. The rack came from the manufacturer is very much center already. If not cent on your steering you can loose the steering shaft above your paddle and align it to center.
Were you located how mcuh would you charge to fix it I'm haveing tha same problem
Dub Cuhz this video is to guide you through to fix your rack n pinion to save your money not to pay any mechanic to do it. Thanks for asking.
What brand of rack and pinion did you buy? Or where did you buy it?
AutoZone brand
Where did you buy the parts?having the same problem..nice video anyway I will try to do this my self
Ardy Sango AutoZone
Forgot to ask how much?thanks
Ardy Sango I don't remember
Just done mine yesterday.thanks for your video..helped me a lot
Ardy Sango great to hear that
What tool did you use to get that bolt off the line that blocking the 17 bolt? At 7:38
Pls help
Hey have. I almost have this job completed but I can't seem to get the lower cylinder line on the back of the valve body to reconnect. The flare nut is giving me trouble. Any tips?
Make sure it straight fit. Bend your line to perfect fit
All Tsab Been at it for days man. It’s not catching. Tried bending the line a bit too. Not sure what else to try
Managed to manipulate the line just so to get it lines up and threaded. Was starting to freak out there haha. Thanks for the tutorial man!
good job ! i would doom the sub frame ! but smart thinking
sorry i meant drop the cross member
The Honda and Acura requirements are to use Honda Acura fluid. Don’t use garbage fluid in your cars please. Not a good place to save money.
Yes my buddy from the Philippines, Rolly Alberto normally helps me out. He is stuck over there because of the corona virus so I am going solo.
I see, you can do it.
What was the total time with your method?
3 hrs
Take off the subframe mount to remove the whole assembly in one piece.
@@OBrienFleming either way always work
Thx for the upload. I would definitely do this if i had the time. Currently i got a quote for 450dollars in Arizona for a refurbished install. Is this reasonable for those of you who've got it done?
Yes foe part n labor including
Thank you. Where you located? Just curious
California
You didn't show how to put the steering column back in place?
Sorry for didn't show but just reverse the way you take it out as mark.
@@alltsab The problem I don't know how to align the column.
@@mabast007 if you mark as i showing in my video you should not have a problem to align and put it back together.
Just lower the sway bar and it pulls out without removing gear.
Un need to loose two frame bolts from back 4 easy pull the rack
Do you have a list of tools used for this project?
Nope
No eng mount remove necessary I didn’t removed
Good job on the acura. Im curious are u from fresno. Im from fresno and i need my rack an pinion replaced but dnt have the tools. If u have the time Would u be able to help me out i could pay u. If not thanks anyways.
STEVEN REIGN there is no special tool need it. As long you have sockey 10,12,14,17,19, wrench, and rachet. You should be able to get the job done.
If you don't want to buy expensive tool. AutoZone or harbor have great too for little money. $60 you shout get it done already.