@@KoaRothman Agree with everything but the leash. Sure, if it’s crowded and/or the waves and beach type (rocky) require it I’m leashed but if it’s beach break and uncrowded I’m unleashing every time. Also, heaps of Puero Escondido surfers go leashless as they notice they break more boards with a leash. But, yeah, in the context of surfing Country leashes are pretty much the jam.
Well said Koa 👏 One thing id add in is DO apologise ... as we all get it wrong but it makes the biggest difference to people if you hold your hand up shout sorry and then everyone can enjoy the rest of their surf.
there are two ways to learn this stuff... thank you Koa, you are offering the far easer way. (both ways involve humility, but one way you choose to be humble and the other way it is impressed upon you).
Yep. I was carrying a Wavestorm on a 6-8 ft (Hawaiian Scale) day at Laniakea to go surfing. The lifeguard asked "Are you going out today?" I said, "Yeah." He then said, "Hey, I'm not trying to hassle you!" in a defensive tone. I was surprised at his response, but I think maybe I came off as smug. He likely thought I was a tourist kook (which I am sorta) but my confident response changed his perception of me. I paddled out and gave up after 5 minutes. The current was just too gnarly.
Koa: The way you stated the Do's and Don'ts was the key to this video. You weren't hostile and mean about it, and it's good knowledge for all surfers to know about.
My experience as a Puerto Rican surfing in Puerto Rico is that every of the DON'TS that Koa mentioned like snaking, paddle around, etc locals do it to other people. I don't know if this happens more than often in other parts of the world but its crazy. Also locals don't respect locals.
100% agree! The problem is that they're assh*les with locals as well. It's kind of a badtrip cause it damage the experience even if the problem is not with you directly. @@KoaRothman
That is the unfortunate reality of waves being a scarce commodity, live with it or move on. I usually move on since i am in it for the fun, not to be around angry people.
@@sacredgeometrees when you surf as good as Koa or anyone else in his squad, you get waves. When Koa shows up to "wherever he goes" aka 15ft tubes, he's not going to blow waves and the local guys will most likely want to trade waves with him because he rips and isn't an a**hole. If you rip hard and have a good attitude, chances are you'll get waves at most spots.
I like this. Makua is a classic example of how I know Hawaiians. My step-grandfathers, one from Kauai, Meheula, died after Korean war. and later one from Honolulu, Pohaku. The later grandfather drove Geyhound, then Greyline tours for 37 years out of Rainbow Towers, Hale Koa Hotel area. My Grandma would send me a ticket to visit and surf between '77-'79 Grandpa Stone would take me and my board to work and drop me off at a beach, Sandy Beach, Makaha, Waimea. And pick me up after tour. My Grandma eventual move to the Kapiolani Manor, 12th floor. I could just see Kaisers between the high-rise hotels. Kaisers became my spot. Learned to surf backside there, right into the bowl! I had a 7'6 Skip Frye rounded pin, single box fin.🤙😎
I know that it's kind of covered in 3 or 4 of of the topics but should be talked about. Craft doesn't give you priority. The same rules apply even if you sit in different areas. IE. Longboard vs shortboard, vs bodyboard etc. They all take off in slightly different areas as their craft is suited for different things. That is something that needs to be in your mind esp if you're able to take off earlier than everyone and sit further out (LB) or inside and deeper (boog).
I agree, however there's been many times when I've seen people miss a lot of waves because they're on the wrong equipment. If you're missing waves on a tiny board in soft and/or small waves IMO you're out of the rotation.
So cool and so classic. Thanks. I lived at Backyards from 1978-1982 right on the beach next to Rawson and worked at the KuiLima hotel. Get off at 12 at night and go party with JOB's dad Mick before JOB was born, then surf Backyards all the time with Shucka. It was 4-6" in the morning one day and the swell was building all day. By the afternoon it was triple overhead. You explained everything really well. A wave at Sunset tripple overhead is the largest wave ever for me. I'm 71 and in my mind I can still rip. Lol. I never surfed pipe because it's so knarly the ground shaked when it got big. Tell Mick Spider says "HI". Thanks Koa.
Koa is The best surfer UA-cam channel. He inspires me to surf good or bad conditions. Been surfing Mission beach for three years. This winter will be my first on the north shore. Hope to see you in the water
haven't been to the north shore in years (not since 2001) but I think one of the issues visiting surfers face is "respect" can be defined differently wherever you go. I had no problems there but I was in good company and easily could've done something wrong without realising it even with many years of surfing experience. I got quite a few grumpy looks surfing some out of the way spots on Oahu. I also had some of the best hospitality ever and was really looked after. I suspect there are spots left in Hawaii where "respect" means "tourists don't surf here" and you may get pounded for just being an outsider. my rules are be low key, no camera, give the locals plenty of space and all the waves they want, resist your urge to paddle for the same waves even if you're just backing them up, be friendly but not too friendly, don't turn up in groups, if you get a chance at a set wave go, don't say shit if you're burnt or dropped in on, don't act like prey haha.
Kudos to start the video with shout out to life guards. Respect is a two way street. Plenty of locals without Aloha drop in on others even on uncrowded peaks. It’s always good to get a feel for the lineup and be respectful but if you’re in position, it’s your wave and no one should drop in on you. Surf with stoke for others and live aloha both in and out of the water.
@@AlohaTrev gotta respect the fact that locals' spots get overrun by tourists and as a local you wanna get away from that. Find a quiet spot and it happens again, aloha can take a hit. Or the intruder.
#9 When you paddle out to the line up for the first time and they give you the benefit of the doubt and give you a wave and you blow the take off or fail to catch it and waste a perfectly good wave you have just lost your right to a wave status. After that they will show no mercy and you will not be given any waves. You have to prove your worth on that first wave otherwise it's over!
I’m glad you have the proper definition of what snaking is. People use snaking synonymously with burning/dropping in and they aren’t the same thing at all.
I'm not a surfer, but do love all your videos and have always enjoyed watching those on the big North Shore waves. I was on Oahu a couple weeks ago and had time to get up to the North Shore for an afternoon and walk on Pipe and Waimea beaches. Flat as it was, now I can imagine the winter waves. I think this video transcends surfing and pertains to life in general. Just respect each other and each others cultures. 🤙
I remember my 2nd December on the NS in 1995. I was 15. Donnie Solomon was going to drown in 4 days from what I'm going to touch on(RIP Donnie). I had a 7'10" and was watching the bay barely breaking by bay standards. It was 12-15' real scale. I was a very strong swimmer/paddler and just wanted to go watch from the channel. I was in the corner and I guess the guard had seen me thinking about it. As I got up to run in between sets he yelled on his megaphone "dont even think about it with that board especially!" haha i was so embarrassed i tucked tail and split from the Bay. Sunset was better that afternoon anyways. I was born at Kapiolani Children's Hospital but am no way a Hawaiian lol.
We have to teach them.... .Good work Koa. Hopefully it will help with all the major kooking going on here at the inlet in Volusia county 🙏 need to let them know if they see a good surfer watch from a distance if they want to learn not paddle to peak and start flailing
Another good DO for new spots, spend an about an hour picking up trash off the beach as a warmup. The locals will see it and hook you up with waves most the time. ..Works the same at skate parks too, especially if you bring a broom and sweep.
Love this video. I went to North Shore this past January 2023 and followed all of these rules, especially Don't #3 lol. I definitely did NOT surf Pipe. I also did NOT panic when caught inside in a big, proper North swell, rifling Lanis. Heaviest beating of my life but I talked to the locals before paddling out and they assured me washing in at Lanis, even on a raging pure North swell, was better than getting ripped up to Jocko's or down to Himalayas. One rule I didn't follow was equipment. My biggest board is a 6'3" and all of the locals were out on 7'++. I managed to grab one "small" inside 10-foot face and got the f**k out of there. North swell Lanis is no joke. Very humbled by North Shore power -- maybe one day I'll surf it with confidence
@@bw8476 First time yes. Honestly won't go back though for a long time. Was too big for me and I'm a pretty good, experienced surfer. Long points in Mexico 6-8 faces is way more fun than being terrified at giant Sunset or Lanis or anywhere North Shore lol. My friends assure me I got unlucky with giant, Eddie-swell and that's it's more accessible when smaller but meh, not gonna try again for long time haha
This video was awesome! Although I'm 72, and injuries have forced me to retire from this great love, you spoke much of everything I lived by, during my 50 yr career surfing. 80% being in shape will eliminate many of these things said! Respect is also very important. and respect in the neighborhoods you are passing through. I am from Belmar NJ, and my name in the water was Wolf. I guess because I howled when big sets approached. But like really, enjoy yourself and the other people in the water with you. If your in better shape you should be able to get all the waves you want. And I did a lot of traveling in the winter season's. Be healthy, help the other guy, love your family, ENJOY YOURSELF
As a beginner surfer, I’m gonna be going out there in the regular so it was nice to find something that’s easy to understand, thankfully I’m friends with some locals in North Shore who I’ll be surfing with and showing me the ropes. And yes I’ve already taken lessons but I’m gonna take a couple more - mahalo!
Eventually when I get there one day. I will be just fine safely watching you guys do your thing from the beach while enjoying it with my nice meal from the Sunrise Shack! Lol but thank you sir!
So excited for the upcoming El Niño swells 🤙🤙🤙 Glad to see you and Nathan healing up. God bless you guys hope you have a good day and as always thanks for sharing with us and making it feel like we are tagging along 🤙✝️❤️
Great to see some opinion and your perspective on what’s acceptable and not. The behavioural aspects of sports generally aren’t often discussed from an inside perspective and I think it’s a positive thing for people to put some context around wanting to get involved and what it really takes to
@koa Great video. I’m now in my fifties, not an expert surfer. These tips are universal. I surf San Diego, Sunset Cliffs in the winter. Very territorial, even know I’ve been surfing there for the last 25 years, off and on . Some locals feel they own the break. I sit back and give them space. They still can be big D bags. Even being “nice”.
Your old man used to keep the line legit. I used to spend every winter on North Shore back in 80s and 90s it was time of respect and snaking was a beach beatdown really enjoyed my time mostly a backdoor surfer
I remember fondly surfing with the Rothman's regularly when they were grommets out at Backyards. Good times. They were always fearless and respectful even though it was their backyard. Pay your dues, show respect and live Aloha.
This is really helpful information, thanks Koa. I wish I’d heard all this before I started learning to surf in Florida fifty years ago. Your lineup,rules apply anywhere in the world. There’s also,some very good info that can save your life here. Especially panic, it kills. You’re a real,pro Koa, we appreciate your feedback. Thanks Bru!
I surfed for 7 years in the 90's on the south east coast of Australia and this brought back memories of all the subtle etiquettes and nuances in the water which I'd almost forgotten about. I remember there was always this awkward grey area when you weren't a local at a new spot and you never really knew if you should speak up or stand up for yourself when the locals were snaking you. It's a very interesting primitive dynamic that takes place.
Dude, you should always stand up for yourself if you get snaked. Localism is not an excuse to break the rules or bully people. If you are in position its your wave; those are the rules no matter where you live or how often you surf somewhere. I mean who decides who is and isn't a local anyway? I have lived in my area, surfing the same breaks, since 2017. Am I a local? Sometimes I get treated like a local, other times not. To some crew, if they didn't go to school with you they don't now you. But that never changes the way I surf, whether I know people or not. They don't own these waves. I live here, I own a house here, I'm going to raise my kids here. Who the fuck are they anyway? When you get down to it, localism is some small minded, ignorant bullshit.
@@timblizzard4226 All good points. It really does mimic politics. Like do First Nations people deserve priority based solely by way of them being there first or is life an even playing field and the true owners are the occupants who can win in a fight. Fight meaning dominance physically, mentally or financially or all 3.
@@chrisnewtownnsw I hate to get into politics, but the way I view it is history is filled with dispossessed people and injustice. We are all here now though, you know? My people have been Australians for 150 years, on both my mum and dads side. Obviously that’s nothing on 40,000 years, but this place is all I have known, my father knew, my grandfather new and what his father knew. We are all Australians now, and fundamentally we can’t change the wrongs that were done. The question that really matters to me is what kind of country do we want now? It’s the same with a surfing community. I live here, I surf here, I own a house here, I am part of the community. No, I didn’t grow up here. Am I a local? What counts? How long do you have to live in a place before you are counted? These are kind of pointless questions. The question that matters to me is what kind of a surfing community do we want around here? IMHO, being a cunt to someone just because you don’t know them is just ignorant bullshit. We don’t own the waves, we just have a relationship with specific spots that should be respected, but they aren’t ours. Be nice, give and expect respect, obey the rules and share. It’s really not that hard.
I had 2 older brothers who. Learned to surf before me . I learned the rules from them when i started. But Back then though it was don't or you'll get beat up. Ha ha ,but true. Two more don'ts is don't surf better surf spots if you can't surf to well yet. You'll only be in the way. Go to a lesser break tell you learn more.( you kinda covered it but needs to be underlined!!!) 2 don't go surf with an old leash , buy a new one , north shore will break your older leash its so powerful. Yeah and i like the try and have fun its what its supposed to be about and helps everyone have a good time to. ( i know in hawaii you can be pushing your limits but , if you can have fun go where you can) thanks for being a big brother and showing others the rules. Some people haven't had that.
For all us intermediate surfers trying to progress - I would greatly appreciate if you could make a video or podcast about the do’s and don’ts of surfing shallow reef breaks/sandbars on head high to overhead days and knowing how to be comfortable falling safely both frontside and backside, similar to how skaters know how to fall safely when testing their limits. Love the channel and the podcast 🤙
I found one of Nate’s older videos that does a good job outlining the advice I was looking for. I’m sure a lot of us could benefit from you revisiting this subject if the opportunity arises though! ua-cam.com/video/6oD5gQqb2S4/v-deo.htmlsi=wYjXHkuEoV-NQ3b8
Thanks for this video. I think you should make a video of surf etiquette/do's & don'ts like this video targeted to beginners or surfers going on a surf trip/new spot. It will help raise safety awareness and proper behavior/etiquette in the water. Also, hopefully, it will create a friendlier vibe in any surf spot.
I got struck by a fair amount of panic and anxiety in France just this month. As an ex skater/nube surfer i was going into some pretty big waves like 5 to 6ft steep waves. I got the hang of popping up and balance is not such a big deal but i can't yet take a direction.. just keep surfing in a straight line. But it was fun eating sh*t and taking one of those waves. But the swell got bigger and it had a huge beach break. Got caught behind the beach break getting sucked into a little over 2m steep walls.... Got spewed out eventually onto a pebble beach..; damaged my board. I remained calm but afterwards i was cringing for 3 days... Thanks for all the tips.... i think i know my limits now... lol.
Great video Koa !! Besides important specific DO`S for surfing, cleaning your TRASH is so so important ! I see people on beautiful island beach spots dipping their smoked cigaretts into the sand..! That is terrible! Please people, respect the Ocean and its precious environment !!
you guys should put on a yearly event where experienced amatuer surfers from all over the world who have dreamed of surfing pipe but are wary of the crowds / locals etc can get a chance to get a few waves during a timed "heat" could be competition or expression session, but would bring lots of tourist dollars and would honestly probably be a really fun thing to do a webcast for, I'm sure people would watch. Sign up ahead of time, entrance fee, week holding period, 1-2 days of surfing, 4-6 man heats. Call it the Pipe Joe.
Great Video Koa and the only orher 3 things i can think of is 1 Sunscreen and 2 maybe some kind of first aid kit if you get scratched up on the reef. 3 DONT GO ALONE! At least have someone on the beach keeping an eye out for you. Love your videos and keep up the great content! P.s. Hows the breadstick sales going? Keep us updated!
Really like your videos where you give background. Your (and your crew's) surfing is amazing, but for me, it is the thoughts behind your surfing. As you describe the Do's and Don'ts it brings more depth to the video. Congrats on another good one
Can confirm it is super different rules here in florida. And yes we do get real waves during hurricane swells and winter storms. A lot of them are the same but I think the biggest difference is about etiquette for when to go and where to be. In florida the person in the best position to get the wave gets it no matter how long they have been there. This is because there is almost no consistent take off spots or depth. So everyone is playing a guessing game in a line of where they the the next set will hit. The other main rule is multiple people can paddle for a wave but who ever is standing first has priority and everyone else has to pull out. Also ive never thought backing out of a wave was a big deal. That may be because we deal with a lot less clean conditions so sometimes you have to wait until the last second to know if the face will be clean enough to get the drop in. So yeah good things to keep in mind. Basically if you move to florida from hawaii, relax a little bit and don’t expect your rules to transfer here.
I do want to travel to and surf hawaii. Im experienced in surfing waves in Australia florida california but north shore is something I would never underestimate. I wholly recognize it as hallowed ground. Between the currents and reefs and wave power it will always command my respect.
I remember the first time surfing Puerto Escondido. Was way too excited to get out there. Took forever to paddle out and then was exhausted when I finally made it. Took awhile to recover and then stayed out waaaaaay too long and got burned to a crisp. And I mean a CRISP! I was layed out for 4 days recovering, barely able to eat anything and only drink water. When I was well enough to go back out, I made sure to take breaks, hydrate and eat properly. Best month of my life…. Oh ya, the DO that I did do was I initially went for a swim/bodysurf to familiarize myself with the current, power of the waves, depth of the water etc etc…I of course steered clear of everyone, but it at least gave me a little insight as to what to expect(still didn’t help with the paddle out though)
Thank you for posting this!!! I notice its hard to get too political with surfing rules nowadays just because of the sheer amount of people taking up surfing as their new hobby. As much as it much sucks, sharing and being patient is the best way for people to have fun. So many countless times I see people taking every wave and not sharing and it really ruins the whole sport. Which brings me to RULE #9 which would be to: Have Fun. If you’re not having fun, then either someones taking all the waves, or its just too crowded.
Do #5, so true. It hit me one day; I didn't stretch before going out and boy was my back paying for it. I thought I was young enough (~35yo) but after two days with a sore back I realized that I am going to have to stretch before EVERY session no matter how big (or small) the waves are.
I want to add another DON'T DO to your list. If you come to an open beach break and you see someone sitting on a peak, Don't paddle out to them. Find your own peak to surf try to spread out. Nothing says, "I am a total kook and don't know what I am doing," more than when you paddle up to someone else on a beach break somewhere when the whole beach is open. Happens so often beginners want to paddle right up next to someone else and fuck up their session.
This one is tough... often surfers are drawn to the area where others are catching waves, its natural. Same time, you can work a very good 2-3-4 surfer rotation on sets. What I would say though is... if you see a crew of 2-3-4 rotating and catching waves, dont crash their party. Too many is not cool... but its ok to join a solo session surfer, IMO
Often there's a bank at one spot on a beach which is literally the only place anyone can catch a wave. What's the point in paddling off to a spot where no waves are breaking? Say hi to the guy, be respectful and friendly and don't drop in on him, but the waves will come in sets of 4,5 or more, he can't be on every wave.
@@jakelesnake4927 Yeah it's situational. Sometimes there is no second or third option. But for sure if there's other empty banks to be had nearby, go there.
Im all about being respectful when going to a new break but at what point do you have to just go for it because seems like alot of times locals will catch 5 in a row and never call you in or give you a nod.
You don’t need to wait for a local’s nod or get called in. If you know what you’re doing and respectfully wait your turn, you just need to go if you’re in position. There comes a point where being too timid or paranoid about “offending” locals becomes annoying to everyone and counterproductive.
@koa how about a Video where you explain opensea surfing to us, like how do you guys get a Boat or a Ski to go far out for some bombs, props to you and ur chanel, This is Livin !
I surfed a beach in Portugal, didn't face directly towards the usual North Atlantic/USA but more towards the equator/South America. We arrived and sat on the beach and it was pretty much flat 2' maybe? We'd been there what seemed like 25 mins and out of nowhere came a set that was 4' to 6' which wiped everyone out, then it was flat again for the same period of time. I think I looked at a chart the next day and noticed there was a massive low south west of Cape Verde and it must have been the swell pushing up from there and it was literally 2-3000 miles away. Potentially very dangerous on the beach that day for the uninitiated.
Serious question, where's the best place to sit at your non-home break when visiting? I'll usually hang out on the shoulder and then move up the point as others catch waves (except for the wave hog who paddles around everyone no matter what), but wonder if that's correct Another serious question: how's the current on north shore when it's 6-10ft Hawaiian versus your trip to the outer banks? Also love videos like this, keep it up brah 🤙🏾
Sit confidently as the widest person and make quite sure they see you doing that, watch and enjoy their waves, when it is your turn, them knowing you waited, it is likely, but not guaranteed they will respect you doing that as you move up the queue. if you are not going to make the wave, don't be surfing that spot. For wave hog paddle, around you, lowlife MF snakes, stare them right in the eye and turn your head and body towards them. As they paddle around you without saying a thing . So you are are metaphorically saying " what the f are you doing" in any language! lol Likely they will not do it again! Good luck.
If locals respect me i will respect them, unfortunately i have had many bad experiences. I will always do my best to respect everyone. (Not talking about Hawaii region). Great do's and don'ts non the less!
Great show! Please do i scientist view of "How Pipeline Works" physics, the reef topography, underwater vies of the 3 reef shelfs to show where the emery hits the reef and then manifest into the best wave in the world! Thanks brother
Do offer to buy locals a round or two drinks (or have a 12 pack on ice) after your session. Most likely they’ll bring you out the next day or so & let you get more waves. Hell you may make lifetime friends.
We need a map with some type of grading system to inform visitors of which breaks are local/pro only and those that are tourist friendly. Like a ski resort trail map with black diamond, blue square, green circle kind of thing. Might keep some out of harms way. 😂
As an old retired surfer…this was a great video. My favorite part was your disdain for people speeding in residential neighborhoods.
I share that disdain, as a father of a 6 year old boy, and owner of a puppy…
Thank you. Glad you liked the video!
@@KoaRothman Agree with everything but the leash. Sure, if it’s crowded and/or the waves and beach type (rocky) require it I’m leashed but if it’s beach break and uncrowded I’m unleashing every time.
Also, heaps of Puero Escondido surfers go leashless as they notice they break more boards with a leash.
But, yeah, in the context of surfing Country leashes are pretty much the jam.
@@shacktimeon hood cuh
@@eganc1976 Huh🤔🤷🏼♂️
Well said Koa 👏
One thing id add in is DO apologise ... as we all get it wrong but it makes the biggest difference to people if you hold your hand up shout sorry and then everyone can enjoy the rest of their surf.
there are two ways to learn this stuff... thank you Koa, you are offering the far easer way. (both ways involve humility, but one way you choose to be humble and the other way it is impressed upon you).
Glad you liked it!
Koa is so well mannered. Sincere honest I think an Empath . But a world class athlete . Such a easy brother to root for .
The lifeguards can spot a full kook just the way they carry the board on the beach, loved that!
I carry my board on my head, fins down over my neck. Leg rope as a choker.
Yep. I was carrying a Wavestorm on a 6-8 ft (Hawaiian Scale) day at Laniakea to go surfing. The lifeguard asked "Are you going out today?" I said, "Yeah." He then said, "Hey, I'm not trying to hassle you!" in a defensive tone. I was surprised at his response, but I think maybe I came off as smug. He likely thought I was a tourist kook (which I am sorta) but my confident response changed his perception of me. I paddled out and gave up after 5 minutes. The current was just too gnarly.
They really can HAHAHA
HAHA this is the way @@botaccount3449
@@jzen1455 lesson learnt the aloha way.. better than them putting you in a chokehold spitting in your face "No you won't" ☠
Koa: The way you stated the Do's and Don'ts was the key to this video. You weren't hostile and mean about it, and it's good knowledge for all surfers to know about.
thank you, I am trying to be helpful not hostile lol
I like that you just spelt out the rules real clear. I feel like it is sometimes hard for beginners to even know what the rules are
haha I tried to be very helpful
Make tourists watch this vid..
My experience as a Puerto Rican surfing in Puerto Rico is that every of the DON'TS that Koa mentioned like snaking, paddle around, etc locals do it to other people. I don't know if this happens more than often in other parts of the world but its crazy. Also locals don't respect locals.
The locals have the right of way no matter where you are in the world. if you travel to someones home break you give way to them
@@KoaRothman and you do that wherever you go? Not a chance. You are duplicitous.
100% agree! The problem is that they're assh*les with locals as well. It's kind of a badtrip cause it damage the experience even if the problem is not with you directly. @@KoaRothman
That is the unfortunate reality of waves being a scarce commodity, live with it or move on. I usually move on since i am in it for the fun, not to be around angry people.
@@sacredgeometrees when you surf as good as Koa or anyone else in his squad, you get waves. When Koa shows up to "wherever he goes" aka 15ft tubes, he's not going to blow waves and the local guys will most likely want to trade waves with him because he rips and isn't an a**hole. If you rip hard and have a good attitude, chances are you'll get waves at most spots.
Well said! These rules of etiquette should be posted at every beach, surf shop, and especially taught at the surf schools that you mentioned.
I like this. Makua is a classic example of how I know Hawaiians. My step-grandfathers, one from Kauai, Meheula, died after Korean war. and later one from Honolulu, Pohaku. The later grandfather drove Geyhound, then Greyline tours for 37 years out of Rainbow Towers, Hale Koa Hotel area. My Grandma would send me a ticket to visit and surf between '77-'79 Grandpa Stone would take me and my board to work and drop me off at a beach, Sandy Beach, Makaha, Waimea. And pick me up after tour. My Grandma eventual move to the Kapiolani Manor, 12th floor. I could just see Kaisers between the high-rise hotels. Kaisers became my spot. Learned to surf backside there, right into the bowl! I had a 7'6 Skip Frye rounded pin, single box fin.🤙😎
Lucky you braddah!
Good memories.
Amazing!
I know that it's kind of covered in 3 or 4 of of the topics but should be talked about. Craft doesn't give you priority. The same rules apply even if you sit in different areas. IE. Longboard vs shortboard, vs bodyboard etc. They all take off in slightly different areas as their craft is suited for different things. That is something that needs to be in your mind esp if you're able to take off earlier than everyone and sit further out (LB) or inside and deeper (boog).
I agree, however there's been many times when I've seen people miss a lot of waves because they're on the wrong equipment. If you're missing waves on a tiny board in soft and/or small waves IMO you're out of the rotation.
So cool and so classic. Thanks. I lived at Backyards from 1978-1982 right on the beach next to Rawson and worked at the KuiLima hotel. Get off at 12 at night and go party with JOB's dad Mick before JOB was born, then surf Backyards all the time with Shucka. It was 4-6" in the morning one day and the swell was building all day. By the afternoon it was triple overhead. You explained everything really well. A wave at Sunset tripple overhead is the largest wave ever for me. I'm 71 and in my mind I can still rip. Lol. I never surfed pipe because it's so knarly the ground shaked when it got big. Tell Mick Spider says "HI". Thanks Koa.
Koa is The best surfer UA-cam channel. He inspires me to surf good or bad conditions. Been surfing Mission beach for three years. This winter will be my first on the north shore. Hope to see you in the water
Thanks for posting this. These basics can't be overstated. My wife and I walked on the beach at Pipe. I will never paddle out there, and it's ok.
haven't been to the north shore in years (not since 2001) but I think one of the issues visiting surfers face is "respect" can be defined differently wherever you go. I had no problems there but I was in good company and easily could've done something wrong without realising it even with many years of surfing experience. I got quite a few grumpy looks surfing some out of the way spots on Oahu. I also had some of the best hospitality ever and was really looked after. I suspect there are spots left in Hawaii where "respect" means "tourists don't surf here" and you may get pounded for just being an outsider. my rules are be low key, no camera, give the locals plenty of space and all the waves they want, resist your urge to paddle for the same waves even if you're just backing them up, be friendly but not too friendly, don't turn up in groups, if you get a chance at a set wave go, don't say shit if you're burnt or dropped in on, don't act like prey haha.
Respect is everything no matter where you go!
Kudos to start the video with shout out to life guards. Respect is a two way street. Plenty of locals without Aloha drop in on others even on uncrowded peaks. It’s always good to get a feel for the lineup and be respectful but if you’re in position, it’s your wave and no one should drop in on you. Surf with stoke for others and live aloha both in and out of the water.
@@AlohaTrev gotta respect the fact that locals' spots get overrun by tourists and as a local you wanna get away from that. Find a quiet spot and it happens again, aloha can take a hit. Or the intruder.
#9 When you paddle out to the line up for the first time and they give you the benefit of the doubt and give you a wave and you blow the take off or fail to catch it and waste a perfectly good wave you have just lost your right to a wave status. After that they will show no mercy and you will not be given any waves.
You have to prove your worth on that first wave otherwise it's over!
Crucial. Absolutely key point.
Lol u surf idiots crack me up
@@Kc-wx8qnif you surf you will understand
I really enjoyed this one man! It taught me that I’ve been snaking people at my local spot for a very long time 😂
I enjoyed this video. It gives you perspective on surfing etiquette and behavior
I’m glad you have the proper definition of what snaking is. People use snaking synonymously with burning/dropping in and they aren’t the same thing at all.
Legend! This is surf etiquette at its finest. This applies everywhere around the world.
Yes it does!
Well done Koa. And much needed. Your content is really expanding in a great way and is much appreciated. Thank you so much.
I'm not a surfer, but do love all your videos and have always enjoyed watching those on the big North Shore waves. I was on Oahu a couple weeks ago and had time to get up to the North Shore for an afternoon and walk on Pipe and Waimea beaches. Flat as it was, now I can imagine the winter waves. I think this video transcends surfing and pertains to life in general. Just respect each other and each others cultures. 🤙
I remember my 2nd December on the NS in 1995. I was 15. Donnie Solomon was going to drown in 4 days from what I'm going to touch on(RIP Donnie). I had a 7'10" and was watching the bay barely breaking by bay standards. It was 12-15' real scale. I was a very strong swimmer/paddler and just wanted to go watch from the channel. I was in the corner and I guess the guard had seen me thinking about it. As I got up to run in between sets he yelled on his megaphone "dont even think about it with that board especially!" haha i was so embarrassed i tucked tail and split from the Bay. Sunset was better that afternoon anyways. I was born at Kapiolani Children's Hospital but am no way a Hawaiian lol.
We have to teach them.... .Good work Koa. Hopefully it will help with all the major kooking going on here at the inlet in Volusia county 🙏 need to let them know if they see a good surfer watch from a distance if they want to learn not paddle to peak and start flailing
According to Pyzel, you DONT talk about Rocky Pt firing. :) Much love guys!! Great content.
Another good DO for new spots, spend an about an hour picking up trash off the beach as a warmup. The locals will see it and hook you up with waves most the time. ..Works the same at skate parks too, especially if you bring a broom and sweep.
Love this video. I went to North Shore this past January 2023 and followed all of these rules, especially Don't #3 lol. I definitely did NOT surf Pipe. I also did NOT panic when caught inside in a big, proper North swell, rifling Lanis. Heaviest beating of my life but I talked to the locals before paddling out and they assured me washing in at Lanis, even on a raging pure North swell, was better than getting ripped up to Jocko's or down to Himalayas.
One rule I didn't follow was equipment. My biggest board is a 6'3" and all of the locals were out on 7'++. I managed to grab one "small" inside 10-foot face and got the f**k out of there. North swell Lanis is no joke. Very humbled by North Shore power -- maybe one day I'll surf it with confidence
First time? have to go there one day before 'old age' (already there if Koa calls 29 that..)
@@bw8476 First time yes. Honestly won't go back though for a long time. Was too big for me and I'm a pretty good, experienced surfer. Long points in Mexico 6-8 faces is way more fun than being terrified at giant Sunset or Lanis or anywhere North Shore lol. My friends assure me I got unlucky with giant, Eddie-swell and that's it's more accessible when smaller but meh, not gonna try again for long time haha
@@Jason200031 good to know, Hawaiian juice is something different aye!
Good video on the do's and don'ts of surfing. Surfed the Islands and respect of the locals got me some waves.
This video was awesome! Although I'm 72, and injuries have forced me to retire from this great love, you spoke much of everything I lived by, during my 50 yr career surfing. 80% being in shape will eliminate many of these things said! Respect is also very important. and respect in the neighborhoods you are passing through. I am from Belmar NJ, and my name in the water was Wolf. I guess because I howled when big sets approached.
But like really, enjoy yourself and the other people in the water with you. If your in better shape you should be able to get all the waves you want. And I did a lot of traveling in the winter season's. Be healthy, help the other guy, love your family, ENJOY YOURSELF
AND ONE MORE THING. Early Humans that didn't help each other, were eaten by the dinosaurs, what's your Dinosaur in the surf community and life?
As a beginner surfer, I’m gonna be going out there in the regular so it was nice to find something that’s easy to understand, thankfully I’m friends with some locals in North Shore who I’ll be surfing with and showing me the ropes. And yes I’ve already taken lessons but I’m gonna take a couple more - mahalo!
Eventually when I get there one day. I will be just fine safely watching you guys do your thing from the beach while enjoying it with my nice meal from the Sunrise Shack! Lol but thank you sir!
So excited for the upcoming El Niño swells 🤙🤙🤙 Glad to see you and Nathan healing up. God bless you guys hope you have a good day and as always thanks for sharing with us and making it feel like we are tagging along 🤙✝️❤️
Me to I cast wait!
Great to see some opinion and your perspective on what’s acceptable and not. The behavioural aspects of sports generally aren’t often discussed from an inside perspective and I think it’s a positive thing for people to put some context around wanting to get involved and what it really takes to
Thank you!
@koa Great video. I’m now in my fifties, not an expert surfer. These tips are universal. I surf San Diego, Sunset Cliffs in the winter. Very territorial, even know I’ve been surfing there for the last 25 years, off and on . Some locals feel they own the break. I sit back and give them space. They still can be big D bags. Even being “nice”.
surfing can get like that.. i love my windsurfing for that but keep on coming back.
This is good advice for surfing anywhere.
Your old man used to keep the line legit. I used to spend every winter on North Shore back in 80s and 90s it was time of respect and snaking was a beach beatdown really enjoyed my time mostly a backdoor surfer
I remember fondly surfing with the Rothman's regularly when they were grommets out at Backyards. Good times. They were always fearless and respectful even though it was their backyard.
Pay your dues, show respect and live Aloha.
Yup #4 up north shore is crazy haha, got to know when a swell is on the rise that’s for sure. Great video braddah koa yessah!! Aloha
This is really helpful information, thanks Koa. I wish I’d heard all this before I started learning to surf in Florida fifty years ago. Your lineup,rules apply anywhere in the world. There’s also,some very good info that can save your life here. Especially panic, it kills. You’re a real,pro Koa, we appreciate your feedback. Thanks Bru!
I surfed for 7 years in the 90's on the south east coast of Australia and this brought back memories of all the subtle etiquettes and nuances in the water which I'd almost forgotten about. I remember there was always this awkward grey area when you weren't a local at a new spot and you never really knew if you should speak up or stand up for yourself when the locals were snaking you. It's a very interesting primitive dynamic that takes place.
truth bro fully non verbal
Dude, you should always stand up for yourself if you get snaked. Localism is not an excuse to break the rules or bully people. If you are in position its your wave; those are the rules no matter where you live or how often you surf somewhere. I mean who decides who is and isn't a local anyway? I have lived in my area, surfing the same breaks, since 2017. Am I a local? Sometimes I get treated like a local, other times not. To some crew, if they didn't go to school with you they don't now you. But that never changes the way I surf, whether I know people or not. They don't own these waves. I live here, I own a house here, I'm going to raise my kids here. Who the fuck are they anyway? When you get down to it, localism is some small minded, ignorant bullshit.
@@timblizzard4226 All good points. It really does mimic politics. Like do First Nations people deserve priority based solely by way of them being there first or is life an even playing field and the true owners are the occupants who can win in a fight. Fight meaning dominance physically, mentally or financially or all 3.
@@chrisnewtownnsw I hate to get into politics, but the way I view it is history is filled with dispossessed people and injustice. We are all here now though, you know? My people have been Australians for 150 years, on both my mum and dads side. Obviously that’s nothing on 40,000 years, but this place is all I have known, my father knew, my grandfather new and what his father knew. We are all Australians now, and fundamentally we can’t change the wrongs that were done. The question that really matters to me is what kind of country do we want now?
It’s the same with a surfing community. I live here, I surf here, I own a house here, I am part of the community. No, I didn’t grow up here. Am I a local? What counts? How long do you have to live in a place before you are counted? These are kind of pointless questions. The question that matters to me is what kind of a surfing community do we want around here? IMHO, being a cunt to someone just because you don’t know them is just ignorant bullshit. We don’t own the waves, we just have a relationship with specific spots that should be respected, but they aren’t ours. Be nice, give and expect respect, obey the rules and share. It’s really not that hard.
@@timblizzard4226 nice reply. I agree.
Love it Koa! Respect and just be a good person sums it all up!
I had 2 older brothers who. Learned to surf before me . I learned the rules from them when i started. But Back then though it was don't or you'll get beat up. Ha ha ,but true. Two more don'ts is don't surf better surf spots if you can't surf to well yet. You'll only be in the way. Go to a lesser break tell you learn more.( you kinda covered it but needs to be underlined!!!) 2 don't go surf with an old leash , buy a new one , north shore will break your older leash its so powerful. Yeah and i like the try and have fun its what its supposed to be about and helps everyone have a good time to. ( i know in hawaii you can be pushing your limits but , if you can have fun go where you can) thanks for being a big brother and showing others the rules. Some people haven't had that.
Good to know. I’ll be visiting Hawaii soon. Thanks for the advice.
Could you do a video on the social hierarchy of Pipeline.
Love your „backround/backstage“ videos !
tanks a lot Mr Rothman, will be attached to the Ten Commandments right now.
Well said. Great job Koa!
For all us intermediate surfers trying to progress - I would greatly appreciate if you could make a video or podcast about the do’s and don’ts of surfing shallow reef breaks/sandbars on head high to overhead days and knowing how to be comfortable falling safely both frontside and backside, similar to how skaters know how to fall safely when testing their limits. Love the channel and the podcast 🤙
Or if you’ve already covered this, please let me know where I can find these tips!
I found one of Nate’s older videos that does a good job outlining the advice I was looking for. I’m sure a lot of us could benefit from you revisiting this subject if the opportunity arises though!
ua-cam.com/video/6oD5gQqb2S4/v-deo.htmlsi=wYjXHkuEoV-NQ3b8
Thanks for this video. I think you should make a video of surf etiquette/do's & don'ts like this video targeted to beginners or surfers going on a surf trip/new spot. It will help raise safety awareness and proper behavior/etiquette in the water. Also, hopefully, it will create a friendlier vibe in any surf spot.
I think this is a great idea. The amount of people in the water with no idea these days is insane! I think it would be really helpful to everyone
Will do!
I got struck by a fair amount of panic and anxiety in France just this month. As an ex skater/nube surfer i was going into some pretty big waves like 5 to 6ft steep waves. I got the hang of popping up and balance is not such a big deal but i can't yet take a direction.. just keep surfing in a straight line. But it was fun eating sh*t and taking one of those waves. But the swell got bigger and it had a huge beach break. Got caught behind the beach break getting sucked into a little over 2m steep walls.... Got spewed out eventually onto a pebble beach..; damaged my board. I remained calm but afterwards i was cringing for 3 days...
Thanks for all the tips.... i think i know my limits now... lol.
i remember the shorebreaks there and all the little bits of shell and sand it can insert everywhere..
love your stuff Koa thanks for all the material bro
Glad you enjoy it!
You are such a blessing to the islands keep the stoke you are a man beyond your time mahalo
Thank you!
Nice work Koa - great edit
Nice Koa, respect from Cali! Like these Hawaii specific, but also universal vids
Great video Koa !! Besides important specific DO`S for surfing, cleaning your TRASH is so so important ! I see people on beautiful island beach spots dipping their smoked cigaretts into the sand..! That is terrible! Please people, respect the Ocean and its precious environment !!
So true!
you guys should put on a yearly event where experienced amatuer surfers from all over the world who have dreamed of surfing pipe but are wary of the crowds / locals etc can get a chance to get a few waves during a timed "heat" could be competition or expression session, but would bring lots of tourist dollars and would honestly probably be a really fun thing to do a webcast for, I'm sure people would watch. Sign up ahead of time, entrance fee, week holding period, 1-2 days of surfing, 4-6 man heats. Call it the Pipe Joe.
Someone’s gonna die in this pipe Joe
Yeah people here on the Goldcoast definitely need to know this. Nice job Koa 👏
That place is a mad house
Great Video Koa and the only orher 3 things i can think of is 1 Sunscreen and 2 maybe some kind of first aid kit if you get scratched up on the reef. 3 DONT GO ALONE! At least have someone on the beach keeping an eye out for you. Love your videos and keep up the great content! P.s. Hows the breadstick sales going? Keep us updated!
Good call!
Really like your videos where you give background. Your (and your crew's) surfing is amazing, but for me, it is the thoughts behind your surfing. As you describe the Do's and Don'ts it brings more depth to the video. Congrats on another good one
Glad you like them!
Can confirm it is super different rules here in florida. And yes we do get real waves during hurricane swells and winter storms. A lot of them are the same but I think the biggest difference is about etiquette for when to go and where to be. In florida the person in the best position to get the wave gets it no matter how long they have been there. This is because there is almost no consistent take off spots or depth. So everyone is playing a guessing game in a line of where they the the next set will hit. The other main rule is multiple people can paddle for a wave but who ever is standing first has priority and everyone else has to pull out. Also ive never thought backing out of a wave was a big deal. That may be because we deal with a lot less clean conditions so sometimes you have to wait until the last second to know if the face will be clean enough to get the drop in. So yeah good things to keep in mind. Basically if you move to florida from hawaii, relax a little bit and don’t expect your rules to transfer here.
I do want to travel to and surf hawaii. Im experienced in surfing waves in Australia florida california but north shore is something I would never underestimate. I wholly recognize it as hallowed ground. Between the currents and reefs and wave power it will always command my respect.
Thanks Koa for mentioning picking up your trash! Also respect when Waimea Life Gaurds say "The sign says no swimming, not go swimming!"
even better if you pick up any trash, help keep the place clean.
So true, first tell how you hold your board second is how you enter the water
Solid as KOA. Much Mahalos, my bradah.
Great vid you the man Koa!
I remember the first time surfing Puerto Escondido. Was way too excited to get out there. Took forever to paddle out and then was exhausted when I finally made it. Took awhile to recover and then stayed out waaaaaay too long and got burned to a crisp. And I mean a CRISP! I was layed out for 4 days recovering, barely able to eat anything and only drink water. When I was well enough to go back out, I made sure to take breaks, hydrate and eat properly. Best month of my life….
Oh ya, the DO that I did do was I initially went for a swim/bodysurf to familiarize myself with the current, power of the waves, depth of the water etc etc…I of course steered clear of everyone, but it at least gave me a little insight as to what to expect(still didn’t help with the paddle out though)
did you wear sunscreen after that?
@@C.Hawkshaw yup! It was way too painful to risk that again. 😂
Thank you for posting this!!!
I notice its hard to get too political with surfing rules nowadays just because of the sheer amount of people taking up surfing as their new hobby. As much as it much sucks, sharing and being patient is the best way for people to have fun. So many countless times I see people taking every wave and not sharing and it really ruins the whole sport. Which brings me to
RULE #9 which would be to:
Have Fun.
If you’re not having fun, then either someones taking all the waves, or its just too crowded.
I really like that rule HAVE FUN!
Do #5, so true. It hit me one day; I didn't stretch before going out and boy was my back paying for it. I thought I was young enough (~35yo) but after two days with a sore back I realized that I am going to have to stretch before EVERY session no matter how big (or small) the waves are.
I think stretching is a better option after the session. Before the session, we must warm up.
I enjoyed this style of video, very entertaining!
Good list. Applies to surfing anywhere, not just North Shore.
It really does
I want to add another DON'T DO to your list. If you come to an open beach break and you see someone sitting on a peak, Don't paddle out to them. Find your own peak to surf try to spread out. Nothing says, "I am a total kook and don't know what I am doing," more than when you paddle up to someone else on a beach break somewhere when the whole beach is open. Happens so often beginners want to paddle right up next to someone else and fuck up their session.
Unless it barreling…
This one is tough... often surfers are drawn to the area where others are catching waves, its natural. Same time, you can work a very good 2-3-4 surfer rotation on sets. What I would say though is... if you see a crew of 2-3-4 rotating and catching waves, dont crash their party. Too many is not cool... but its ok to join a solo session surfer, IMO
Often there's a bank at one spot on a beach which is literally the only place anyone can catch a wave. What's the point in paddling off to a spot where no waves are breaking? Say hi to the guy, be respectful and friendly and don't drop in on him, but the waves will come in sets of 4,5 or more, he can't be on every wave.
@@jakelesnake4927 Yeah it's situational. Sometimes there is no second or third option. But for sure if there's other empty banks to be had nearby, go there.
Im all about being respectful when going to a new break but at what point do you have to just go for it because seems like alot of times locals will catch 5 in a row and never call you in or give you a nod.
You don’t need to wait for a local’s nod or get called in. If you know what you’re doing and respectfully wait your turn, you just need to go if you’re in position. There comes a point where being too timid or paranoid about “offending” locals becomes annoying to everyone and counterproductive.
I love how Eddie Aikau winner is just casually working his lifeguard shift while you filming
great vid! keep it up man
Well said. Wish more folks said as well and even more followed these simple truths
Wish more surfers thought this way on the east coast. It’s really simple, just show respect
Thank you brother, Very good vibe on these videos. Missing the North shore, #Markfish,
Aloha
Classic video, so many emotions with both the do’s and don’t.
@koa how about a Video where you explain opensea surfing to us, like how do you guys get a Boat or a Ski to go far out for some bombs, props to you and ur chanel,
This is Livin !
bra that burn at 14:13 is insane. Do you know if either got injured?
The don'ts are absolutely perfect, I wished everyone respected those rules.
Great video. More and more chaos these days at surf spots. Gotta being some simple logic and mindfulness to keep people safe and maximize ripping.
Well said!
I can’t believe another season is almost here already!
Great vid! But you missed the most important don’t. “When the wave breaks here, don’t be there. Or you’re gonna get drilled.” 😂🤙
I surfed a beach in Portugal, didn't face directly towards the usual North Atlantic/USA but more towards the equator/South America. We arrived and sat on the beach and it was pretty much flat 2' maybe? We'd been there what seemed like 25 mins and out of nowhere came a set that was 4' to 6' which wiped everyone out, then it was flat again for the same period of time. I think I looked at a chart the next day and noticed there was a massive low south west of Cape Verde and it must have been the swell pushing up from there and it was literally 2-3000 miles away. Potentially very dangerous on the beach that day for the uninitiated.
Will try this product you’re promoting. Calf cramps have been a huge issue with me forever! Bananas don’t work.
Hey koa where can I buy that quicksilver sticker that you put on your boards?
Great video, and love the channel. Can you please tell me the name of, your sun glasses, so I can order a pair.
Cheers.
Serious question, where's the best place to sit at your non-home break when visiting? I'll usually hang out on the shoulder and then move up the point as others catch waves (except for the wave hog who paddles around everyone no matter what), but wonder if that's correct
Another serious question: how's the current on north shore when it's 6-10ft Hawaiian versus your trip to the outer banks?
Also love videos like this, keep it up brah 🤙🏾
Sit confidently as the widest person and make quite sure they see you doing that, watch and enjoy their waves, when it is your turn, them knowing you waited, it is likely, but not guaranteed they will respect you doing that as you move up the queue. if you are not going to make the wave, don't be surfing that spot. For wave hog paddle, around you, lowlife MF snakes, stare them right in the eye and turn your head and body towards them. As they paddle around you without saying a thing . So you are are metaphorically saying " what the f are you doing" in any language! lol Likely they will not do it again! Good luck.
If locals respect me i will respect them, unfortunately i have had many bad experiences. I will always do my best to respect everyone. (Not talking about Hawaii region). Great do's and don'ts non the less!
SoCal surfers are the worst
Very nice material and important 😊
I'll give the LMNT a try it might help with some muscle strain i'm feeling, i'll use the code too ...cheers Koa (from Aussie)
Loved it! Hopefully more people will follow them.
Great show! Please do i scientist view of "How Pipeline Works" physics, the reef topography, underwater vies of the 3 reef shelfs to show where the emery hits the reef and then manifest into the best wave in the world! Thanks brother
Do offer to buy locals a round or two drinks (or have a 12 pack on ice) after your session. Most likely they’ll bring you out the next day or so & let you get more waves. Hell you may make lifetime friends.
We need a map with some type of grading system to inform visitors of which breaks are local/pro only and those that are tourist friendly. Like a ski resort trail map with black diamond, blue square, green circle kind of thing. Might keep some out of harms way. 😂
Cool vid. I particularly like the N shore specifics as I've never been
Amazing. Don't #6 is a big one. Always kills me when someone paddles like they're going to go and doesn't and a wave goes unrode
Thank you, Koa. I hope everyone watches this. Have a super and safe winter!!!!
I hope so too!
Sold all the bread sticks, time for Pyzel to make more. 🤙