Basically, think of the meter panel as a 4' long 50 amp 240V extension cord with stove/range plugs. Inside the meter panel, I cut about 1" of insulation in the middle of the L1, L2 hot wires as well as the neutral and ground wires. I attached a dedicated 12awg L1, neutral and ground wire to each plug on the left receptacle. I did the same on the right side but with the L2 leg this time. This provides 120V to the orange receptacles. The meters monitor the 6awg L1 and L2 independently and are wired per the instructions that were provided with them. I probably won't do a how to video on the meter panel simply due to the liability potential but I may pull the door open on the transfer switch and give a run down of how that works. Hope this helps.
Did a similar mod, but used the I made a cordset with an 5-15P to L14-30R and jumped the two legs together with an extra wire that's visible looping out of the back of the L14-30R. I even had the same generator! Ran the house at night on this after hurricane Beryl so the 22kW didn't have to idle along all night.
I've got a 8.5KW that runs 3600rpm no matter the load on it and it burns 1/2 gallon per hour with a few hundred watts on it. The inverter generator is perfectly size for keeping the refer, TVs, lights and fans going and uses a little over a gallon per night. It has become the primary standby generator. Thanks for watching!
@@LivingCommonSense you might enjoy my video on the hybrid solar/battery/gasoline golf cart… worked hard at a way to get the generator engine/kW size waay down close to matching kWh over 24hr, but have a ton of power for ‘impulse loads’.
That is a very versatile setup. I often thought about all people that didn't realize how much standby power they had in the garage onboard their golf carts...perhaps even folks in Houston over the last couple of weeks.
@@LivingCommonSense I am in Houston! Actually the hybrid golf cart generator saved us in winter storm uri, was going to run out of propane fuel. 22kW standby generator needs 2.5Gal/hr while the house needs 1/10th of that LP to heat itself and needs 1kW of furnace blower power. The two best parts aside from fuel savings: shutting off the generator to refuel without cutting power, and when your heavy generator is self propelled!
Thanks so much for this, we have the 4500 iGen and i i've been told you cant run a transfer switch w/ an inverter, but you've very much proven that you can, and did! the 4500 has the TT-30R 30Amp outlet, so with a TT-30 30Amp to L14-30 Adapter, we should be good to go!
This one works well. The only trouble I've seen connecting a generator to a transfer switch is if the generator was equipped with a GFCI breaker. The neutral is bonded (to the ground) in the house main breaker panel and the GFCI breaker on the generator "sees" this and trips. Let us know how it goes with the iGen4500
@zoran - Only one of the adapters appear to be available from Amazon at this time. Here are the links below. Hopefully you'll be able to find an equivalent for the other. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LDBFQ4C www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089KSZH1S
@LivingCommonSense I have a split-phase inverter (2000W) that provides 60V AC on the hot and on the neutral wire (which adds up to 120V). Now, I have read that the neutral is connected to the ground in the breaker box. Will my inverter be short circuited if I connect it via the generator plug to the house? As information: I have a manual interlock switch. I don't know whether that switch disconnects the neutral from the ground - or whether that is even relevant here. Is your inverter also a split-phase inverter? (As a side note, I have no intention of running 240V appliances on 2000W. It's meant as a make-shift for short power outages).
@RobertPiro - To be clear, I'm no electrician....The inverter on my Ford pickup is split like you are describing and though it accepts a 3-prong plug, I can see no grounding lug in the center round hole. I have a video describing this. Now here is where it may get interesting. When setting up an inverter generator test on a Honda, I recall seeing the voltage also split as you describe and was afraid to connect my oscilloscope to it. I took a chance and assumed that connecting the "neutral" leg to the ground would, at worst, stall the engine or trip the breaker but figured it was the only way to insure no voltage was fed to the ground lead on the scope. When I did, the whole thing started working as expected with 120V+ on the hot leg and 0V on the neutral and ground. Since then, I've always bonded the neutral and ground, then checked the voltages before connecting my scope to any generator, including this Westinghouse. However, this wouldn't work if there is no ground lug in the receptacle on the inverter. I would check for the ground lug on your inverter, then voltages on everything thereafter. I don't talk about bonding these in the video because it may not be necessary on some inverters, could trip gfci protection or damage the inverter...There are too many possibilities to predict. The disclaimer...it may not work on your inverter, it may damage it, it may cause a fire, it may shock or electrocute everyone in the house. I wish you well in your quest for off grid. Above all else, respect electricity and be safe.
Can I use this setup if all I want to run is led lights, fans, TVs, internet and fridge. I have a Honda 2000 generator 50 amp generator interlock no transfer switch.
Yeah, 2000 watts is enough to run that load. Depending on how fast your Honda can ramp up power, when the fridge kicks on, it may pull the TVs and Internet down (cause them to reset) due to the startup power required by the compressor. This happens to me with TV/Internet/Satellite when my current fridge starts up. I put an inexpensive UPS on the electronics which keeps them going when the power blinks....whether on generator or grid power. Those electronics need some level of protection anyway. I'm not familiar with a generator interlock though I assume it is two main breakers tied together in a way to cause one to turn off when the other is turned on, making it safe to connect two unsync'd power sources. 50 amps is plenty of capacity for that honda generator which is good for about 15-18 amps.
@@LivingCommonSensethanks yes the interlock I have is the special plate on the breaker panel that keeps you from the having the main breaker on while feeding your panel from generator power also. I will definitely order the parts you had in the video and be sure to turn off my 240 breakers for extra safety do you have a link to that UPS you recommended?
@Edwin - Neither of the adapter appear to be available from Amazon anymore. Here are the links below. Hopefully you'll be able to find an equivalent. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LDBFQ4C www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089KSZH1S
Doing this with two adapters gives me and (the viewers) the flexibility to use 120v generators that have either the NEMA 5-15R or L5-30R (receptacles). Some generators in the 3500w range have both types so I'd use the larger of the two when given the option. Good question and thanks for watching
Need to be careful to not overload shared neutrals with this type of setup. With the size of generator in this video, not a problem, but can be with larger generators capable of more than 15 amps.
Yes, as long as the extension cord is appropriately sized for the breaker protecting the circuit. I've seen 2 pole breakers, intended for 240 volts have undersized neutrals which I think is against code these days. Thanks for watching!
@@LivingCommonSenseThere is that, but also the circuits in your house, shop, etc that are 120 and share a neutral. The breaker doesn't protect the Neutral.
@T.D. - If I had it to do over, I'd been better off with a 240v capable inverter generator. This 120v inverter generator was much cheaper than a 240v model and I already had a 240v traditional generator that will get me by. Also, this 120v model weighs much less and is better for camping.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video. It would also be great to see a video on the meter panel you built, as well as the house power transfer switch.
Basically, think of the meter panel as a 4' long 50 amp 240V extension cord with stove/range plugs. Inside the meter panel, I cut about 1" of insulation in the middle of the L1, L2 hot wires as well as the neutral and ground wires. I attached a dedicated 12awg L1, neutral and ground wire to each plug on the left receptacle. I did the same on the right side but with the L2 leg this time. This provides 120V to the orange receptacles. The meters monitor the 6awg L1 and L2 independently and are wired per the instructions that were provided with them. I probably won't do a how to video on the meter panel simply due to the liability potential but I may pull the door open on the transfer switch and give a run down of how that works. Hope this helps.
Did a similar mod, but used the I made a cordset with an 5-15P to L14-30R and jumped the two legs together with an extra wire that's visible looping out of the back of the L14-30R. I even had the same generator! Ran the house at night on this after hurricane Beryl so the 22kW didn't have to idle along all night.
I've got a 8.5KW that runs 3600rpm no matter the load on it and it burns 1/2 gallon per hour with a few hundred watts on it. The inverter generator is perfectly size for keeping the refer, TVs, lights and fans going and uses a little over a gallon per night. It has become the primary standby generator. Thanks for watching!
@@LivingCommonSense you might enjoy my video on the hybrid solar/battery/gasoline golf cart… worked hard at a way to get the generator engine/kW size waay down close to matching kWh over 24hr, but have a ton of power for ‘impulse loads’.
That is a very versatile setup. I often thought about all people that didn't realize how much standby power they had in the garage onboard their golf carts...perhaps even folks in Houston over the last couple of weeks.
@@LivingCommonSense I am in Houston! Actually the hybrid golf cart generator saved us in winter storm uri, was going to run out of propane fuel. 22kW standby generator needs 2.5Gal/hr while the house needs 1/10th of that LP to heat itself and needs 1kW of furnace blower power. The two best parts aside from fuel savings: shutting off the generator to refuel without cutting power, and when your heavy generator is self propelled!
Thanks so much for this, we have the 4500 iGen and i i've been told you cant run a transfer switch w/ an inverter, but you've very much proven that you can, and did! the 4500 has the
TT-30R 30Amp outlet, so with a TT-30 30Amp to L14-30 Adapter, we should be good to go!
This one works well. The only trouble I've seen connecting a generator to a transfer switch is if the generator was equipped with a GFCI breaker. The neutral is bonded (to the ground) in the house main breaker panel and the GFCI breaker on the generator "sees" this and trips. Let us know how it goes with the iGen4500
@@LivingCommonSense Will do, thanks again!
Can you please post s link to the adapter cable?
@zoran - Only one of the adapters appear to be available from Amazon at this time. Here are the links below. Hopefully you'll be able to find an equivalent for the other.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LDBFQ4C
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089KSZH1S
@LivingCommonSense I have a split-phase inverter (2000W) that provides 60V AC on the hot and on the neutral wire (which adds up to 120V). Now, I have read that the neutral is connected to the ground in the breaker box. Will my inverter be short circuited if I connect it via the generator plug to the house? As information: I have a manual interlock switch. I don't know whether that switch disconnects the neutral from the ground - or whether that is even relevant here. Is your inverter also a split-phase inverter? (As a side note, I have no intention of running 240V appliances on 2000W. It's meant as a make-shift for short power outages).
@RobertPiro - To be clear, I'm no electrician....The inverter on my Ford pickup is split like you are describing and though it accepts a 3-prong plug, I can see no grounding lug in the center round hole. I have a video describing this. Now here is where it may get interesting. When setting up an inverter generator test on a Honda, I recall seeing the voltage also split as you describe and was afraid to connect my oscilloscope to it. I took a chance and assumed that connecting the "neutral" leg to the ground would, at worst, stall the engine or trip the breaker but figured it was the only way to insure no voltage was fed to the ground lead on the scope. When I did, the whole thing started working as expected with 120V+ on the hot leg and 0V on the neutral and ground. Since then, I've always bonded the neutral and ground, then checked the voltages before connecting my scope to any generator, including this Westinghouse. However, this wouldn't work if there is no ground lug in the receptacle on the inverter. I would check for the ground lug on your inverter, then voltages on everything thereafter. I don't talk about bonding these in the video because it may not be necessary on some inverters, could trip gfci protection or damage the inverter...There are too many possibilities to predict. The disclaimer...it may not work on your inverter, it may damage it, it may cause a fire, it may shock or electrocute everyone in the house. I wish you well in your quest for off grid. Above all else, respect electricity and be safe.
@@LivingCommonSenseThank you for your swift reply. I will have to think more about it.
Can I use this setup if all I want to run is led lights, fans, TVs, internet and fridge. I have a Honda 2000 generator 50 amp generator interlock no transfer switch.
Yeah, 2000 watts is enough to run that load. Depending on how fast your Honda can ramp up power, when the fridge kicks on, it may pull the TVs and Internet down (cause them to reset) due to the startup power required by the compressor. This happens to me with TV/Internet/Satellite when my current fridge starts up. I put an inexpensive UPS on the electronics which keeps them going when the power blinks....whether on generator or grid power. Those electronics need some level of protection anyway. I'm not familiar with a generator interlock though I assume it is two main breakers tied together in a way to cause one to turn off when the other is turned on, making it safe to connect two unsync'd power sources. 50 amps is plenty of capacity for that honda generator which is good for about 15-18 amps.
@@LivingCommonSensethanks yes the interlock I have is the special plate on the breaker panel that keeps you from the having the main breaker on while feeding your panel from generator power also. I will definitely order the parts you had in the video and be sure to turn off my 240 breakers for extra safety do you have a link to that UPS you recommended?
I ordered a CyberPower EC850LCD a little over a year ago that seems to be holding up.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome video. I'll try this ow with my Ryobi inverter. Do you have links for the adapters you got?
@Edwin - Neither of the adapter appear to be available from Amazon anymore. Here are the links below. Hopefully you'll be able to find an equivalent.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LDBFQ4C
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089KSZH1S
Why do you need two adapters ? Why not use one 3 prong 120v to 4 prong 30 amp ?
Doing this with two adapters gives me and (the viewers) the flexibility to use 120v generators that have either the NEMA 5-15R or L5-30R (receptacles). Some generators in the 3500w range have both types so I'd use the larger of the two when given the option. Good question and thanks for watching
Need to be careful to not overload shared neutrals with this type of setup. With the size of generator in this video, not a problem, but can be with larger generators capable of more than 15 amps.
Yes, as long as the extension cord is appropriately sized for the breaker protecting the circuit. I've seen 2 pole breakers, intended for 240 volts have undersized neutrals which I think is against code these days. Thanks for watching!
@@LivingCommonSenseThere is that, but also the circuits in your house, shop, etc that are 120 and share a neutral. The breaker doesn't protect the Neutral.
Why not buy a inverter generator that will power you whole house, their are several models that produce 240v.
@T.D. - If I had it to do over, I'd been better off with a 240v capable inverter generator. This 120v inverter generator was much cheaper than a 240v model and I already had a 240v traditional generator that will get me by. Also, this 120v model weighs much less and is better for camping.
【from Hipa】Do you like to try my parts?I can give you.thanks
Maybe you meant this for somebody else. Thanks for watching.
@@LivingCommonSense hi friend,if you need any parts in the future,pls contact me.I will send it to you.Thanks a lot.
Ok, Thanks