Great tip! Having a magnetic LED flashlight on the breaker box is definitely a smart move during power outages. Speaking of backup power, have you heard about the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series? It's a versatile powerhouse with a massive capacity, fast recharging, and comprehensive protections. It could be a great addition to your outdoor gear or home backup power setup! Check it out!
I know I am late to this video. I have a question and some other suggestions. Q: What do you do with the dirty power for your electronics you run like your laptop, cell phone, etc? I am always worried about this being an issue for a non-inverter type generator. The Inverter type are about double the price and I was not aware of this concern when I got my generator. So far this has not been an issue the one time I used it for about 4 hours. I have a 9500 Watt (12500 Watt peek) Westinghouse dual fuel generator that included regulator for propane. (50 amp option) 1) Keeping gasoline is an issue but I found during the last hurricane I could still get propane when the gasoline was not available. So have enough gas to get by a few days. Then propane until gas is available again. I live about 50 miles inland so normally it is a couple of days with no access to gas depending on how bad it gets. 2) For running my 3.5 ton AC I added an EasyStart Micro-Air 368 so the startup amps are much less and can add life to my AC unit. So AC from the generator does not overload and trip the circuit breaker when it starts. 3) I have generator tent running cover that is "windproof." I found this on Amazon for about $140 and allows it to run in the rain but covering much of the unit and stakes to hold it down. 4) In my case when a hurricane is coming I will get the generator in place in my back yard enclosed by a solid fence away from the house. This does a couple of things. Dampens the sound for the neighbors a little and also it makes it harder for someone to be notice it and keep it from being stolen. The remote starter makes it so I will not need to go outside to start it and I just have to go to the garage and flip the interlock. 5) Find a fuel pump for a gas can to move the gas much quicker than pouring it in to minimize time out in the elements. I found one that moves 5 gallons of gas in about 2 minutes. Found that on Amazon for about $60 that runs on AA batteries. There are manual pumps for cheaper but I wanted to not have to lift and hold the can while in the wind and/or rain.
I have the same generator. I run my electronics through a couple of UPS and also added surge protects in addition even though the UPS's have surge protection. No issues so far. The UPS's didn't like the generator power. But when I plugged them into surge protects they seem OK with it.
While what you did in the beginning works, its recommended to run the motor first with everything on and then slowly turn everything on with the biggest loads first. This will ensure the generator can keep up and avoid dangerous drops in power.
Love all your videos. I have a very similar setup except using the larger 12K Westinghouse with 50A cord. At the beginning I noticed you dragging the generator out on your driveway in the rain. Is this not a problem? I purchased a cover protect the generator from rain. Now I'm wondering if I really needed to. Also, both our generators have a bonded neutral. I'm pretty sure the cord connection you have is sharing a neutral with the panel. And in your panel the neutral is bonded with the ground. So I believe code recommends you unbond the generator neutral making it a floating neutral. Of course if you ever directly connect a load to the generator you will need to reverse that. And finally, I was told it's best practice to turn off all breakers before connecting generator to panel, and then after starting generator turn on individual breakers. Especially important to do this with larger breakers. Again, thanks for all your helpful videos!
This has helped me a lot. I knew the basics, wattage & amperage, but your walk through made it easier to understand. I just had my 50A inlet installed today.
Hi, my suggestion is I would look at a dome tent that is designed for the Generator. I notice it is raining in the video and water and electric is never good to mix.
Would recommend brand products but the interlock is the best. 34' boats and larger w/Gen sets do this at the service box. The on switch for "GEN" is off and shore current is on. The slide will not let you switch anything unless outside power is off. They slide moves only with one on. Write a draft of procedures and type & print. Place in a page protector and simply note; #1, #2 and so on. It has been 6 or 7 years since we had a power failure of 15 minutes or more. We are not spending Buick money to have a stationary generator hooked to natural gas and no one has propane. We honestly don't have room for all of this and besides an electrician, you will need a gas contractor to calculate max fuel to get pipe size because that changes just like a longer cord or higher load, needs larger wire. Luckily, almost 25 years ago I bought cable to run my 150 Amp welder and by the foot, it was an expense then but today, multiply that times 10+. Yes, now fifty foot later, I can do drive-by mail box welding! Yeh! On and off items like a sump pump also have a current in-rush. This means to start when at room temperature, it may draw 15-20 amps more to start up. This can cause a brown out if at the max and damage some older electronics. So keep things off, use the marker or paper dots all the same color, say green. The fade is nothing and a magic marker will make them new. Gas generators like a car, need maintenance. Add a fuel stabilizer for long term storage, start and run for 15 minutes while checking voltage. Change the fuel with fresh. Mine runs 16 hrs on full with 1" room of air. Change oil every two years, but some do not use detergent oil. These are long term investments. Read, ask what kind of oil pump the engine used, warranty card, etc. ASE Master Since 1978. I chain mine to concrete pocket hook that is 12 ton, 10 ton chain and two pad locks inside thru the door. Yes, auto repair shops vent exhaust thru round doors installed in the overhead door. Make a few calls.
You should NOT power all critical circuits at the same time. Proper sequence is largest circuit load fist, then next largest circuit load and so on and so forth. Large loads would be freezers, refrigerators, window AC, electric cook top.
If you leave a generator near a road at night, when you wake up it won't be there. Last hurricane in Houston (in a nice area) people had a lot of generators stolen out of their back yards with locked fences in the middle of the night.
I am in the early stages of planning to do this. My biggest concern is whether I should go with an inverter generator. I am concerned about the quality of the power being supplied to run modern day appliances and electronics. I know inverters are more expensive.
The one thing on using a large wattage/amp generator is the size of the engine to drive it. If running gasoline, and at high load, that's a *lot* of gasoline. Assumption is not only you have no power, but neither does anybody else closeby. Gas stations nearby cant pump and what kind of container are you going to put all that gasoline in? A 5 gallon container isn't going to get you much run time, especially under load... If you have natural gas, maybe look for a dual fuel generator. Hauling gasoline in the back of you car stinks - back and forth to wherever you find a working gas station. Or, go small, like a 2000-2500 watt inverter type. and conserve or alternate what you choose to run and when. I had a 5500 watt open frame generator and at 60-70% load, 7 gal of gas ran about 7-8 hours. Be thoughtful in what you spend your money on... I survived no AC as a kid just fine.
ive been a electrician for 40 years. the system you are showing in my opinion is the best route you can go. everything is much more cost effective. the interloc will never fail. going to the $10k option has more options that can fail. Also when you use the generator for emergency situations it could be years before its needed
Verry clear and useful instructions. You did cover everything needed. The only thing that I would do different is to open all of the circuits in the house before turning on the generator. Then turn on the circuits one at a time. This is how the electricians would bring on a large building where I worked. Thanks again.
Place a laminated "critical circuit list" and how to do each step by step next to the breaker box. Attach a grease pencil to the list with boxes to check each step as it completed. Teach your wife to do each step by step and work it through in real steps. Instead of her calling you or the neighbors in a panic mode. I should know. I've received calls with my wife in a panic mode before even with minor issues. That when I call my older daughter and have her walk through the steps. It's the panic mode that kills people. Or better yet. Teach your family to work the list through. Have an emergency kit prepared. Complete with flashlight. Tools if needed.
Years ago I bought a similar portable generator and had a manual transfer switch installed. Critical circuit list includes the well pump, boiler/indirect water heater, sump pump, smoke detectors, fridge, freezer, microwave oven and a few lighting circuits. Just enough to call it "indoor camping" :)
Based on your videos I installed an Interlock, 50amp breaker, and the 9500kw Westinghouse. It works like a charm! Runs the entire house plus one my central ACs. I have a window AC that can be installed easily for the master bedroom if the power is out for more than a few hours. I run the generator in a detached shed to keep it out of the weather (had to install an attic fan in the shed to exhaust the carbon monoxide).
I did the same. However most portable generators have bonded neutrals so you would have to unbond the ground and neutral before hooking into your main service panel. The ground and neutral are both bonded there in your house, and having two places bonded (the other back at the generator) creates objectionable current and is a code violation. If you do unbond your generator just make sure you put that jumper back in if you use it portably as now any ground fault will not have a path back to the source.
Michael, You might want to do what I did. If your generator has a 1" O.D. for the exhaust tip. Look for a 24mm/0.94" 316 Stainless Steel Thru Hull Exhaust Tip used on boats with those little Diesel Heaters. Also get 1"Inner Diameter Stainless Steel Heater Exhaust Pipe at least 2 feet long if not longer. Depending where you want to place your generator. I have ours on our closed in back porch and exhausted out the wall. That way I can keep the door closed and locked and the generator out of the weather.
@6:30: Just because the circuits are on doesn't mean they're pulling loads. You say you were at 11 amps and that you have more capacity, but was that with full expected loads on the circuits (e.g., range on, kettle on, TV on, etc.)?
@Kevin : Try again. At the time stamp you noted, he specifically said he's running the circuits, not that he's pulling loads on those circuits. There's a difference between a live circuit and a load. He says he's pulling 11 amps, but it's not clear what's live. E.g., a kettle alone would pull 10+ amps.
Many years ago I bought a very small generator just adequate to run the heating system. Of course, since then there have been no power failures at all and the generator is still in the box.
I installed a 50-amp interlock with a 11,500-watt portable generator. I regard my system as an insurance policy. Sure a permanently installed natural gas Generac would be nicer and less bother during an infrequent outage, but at roughly 10-times the total-installed-cost I could not justify it. Nice video.
I have roughly the same set up for the same reasons. During our last hurricane I heard too many stories of people w whole house generators that failed. If my $1,000 generator fails I can easily replace it. A whole house generator w automatic transfer switch would be sweet, but they're too damn expensive and can still fail when you need them.
@@michaeliverson8464 Even if your portable generator fails, you may not find one anywhere remotely close to replace it....but at least you probably have a neighbor with a generator you could run a cord to if you really had to temporarily while you tracked down a replacement generator. Yep, those whole house backup/standby generators sound great, until, what I hear frequently is when you actually need the dang thing and it doesn't work at all. For what those things cost, it seems people have way too many problems with them. I don't have a generator at all anymore, don't have enough power outages to justify owning one...and have no use for a generator otherwise.
How long will that Westinghouse run on the 6.6g of gasoline or a standard grill propane tank? Just curious how much of a hassle we'd be looking at in a multi-day outage.
Probably about 8-12 hours depending on load. On full load most likely closer to 7-8 hours. Really isn't very long especially if you have days without power as often happens in the backcountry homes during bad weather. A better solution would be a dedicated bulk propane tank of several hundred gallons, or being connected to your natural gas supplier.
Amperes not amperage * Power failure, not outage * 1 amp. More than 1 = amps. Plural. * Great video. I purchased Wago lever nuts from your store in The Amazon.
I use tiny little magnets and place them next to the circuit breakers I want to turn in during a backup. Can easily move them around if you change your mind or move breakers at some point.
I have the same exact setup, including the same Westinghouse generator and it powers my house perfectly. My area just got hit with a Cat 4 Typhoon 2 months ago and we were without power for about 3 weeks. This generator setup kept us comfortable during that time. We were easily able to run lights, AC and refrigerator to keep food from spoiling. If money is tight, this is an excellent option for home backup power. Great video and the detailed explanation is excellent for those who may be looking for a similar option. 👍🏼
That's basically what I did. Except I installed a sub panel for a critical load panel. Than all my criticals to that with an interlock. Than used 6awg copper to a CS6365 for a 50 amp plug. Only have a 30 amp 8250 Gen right now, but I'm in the process of ordering a 16k fuel injected portable generator. That should be very efficient fuel wise and easy on the generator for wear and tear.
Why wouldn't you start the generator after it's been plugged in before turning on the generator breaker? I'd want the generator to stabilize before turning on any circuits.
It's silly to sit that generator out in the rain. There are many types of inexpensive coverings that will help keep the rain/snow off the running generator. I also question the 25-feet thing. As long as it is out in the open and not near any open windows you will be fine. If in doubt, install a CO detector near the window nearest to where you plan to sit the generator. I use the same type of Interlock system for a whole house solution using a Honda 6500W generator. I have bright orange stick-on dots next to the breakers that need to be turned off when running a generator. I also keep a magnetic flashlight stuck to the panel so I can see to throw breakers during the outage. Even with my 6500W unit I can run the whole house except for the central air and water heater. In an emergency I can run the water heater if I turn off a few additional breakers. Don't forget an alarm to tell you when power comes back on. This is very important for daytime power failures when you can't just look out the window and see the neighborhood lights on. :-)
@@FREIMUZIC I took three square pieces of 1/4-inch plywood and joined them together with two piano hinges. I can then hang this over the handles and it shields the entire front of the generator. My gen sits on a covered patio when in operation so I mainly just need to shield the control panel and air intake from blowing rain and snow.
@@tzavitz It is a Reliance Controls THP108 "Power Back" alarm. It has a sense wire which wraps around one of the main panel feed wires. It is magnetic and you can just stick it to the front of your panel. It uses a 9V battery and you turn it ON when you switch to generator power. When it senses power on the main feed it emits a loud warbling siren that can be heard throughout the house. You can get them at various places including Amazon. It is the perfect solution for determining when power is restored.
Hello: I see in this video you placed your Westinghouse generator outside in the rain. I understand that a generator needs to be in some type of shelter.
Please note, regular generators can damage in a long run your AC compresor!! Regular generators produce electical distortion THD above normal safety for sensitive equipment. Get a mini split AC system 110 volt and inverter generator instead! Inverter generators are 5% THD, while regular generators are above 23%. Make sure to avoid wet conditions, keep the generator above wet surfaces!! Never refuel when engine is running wait until is cool!!
Before you would run out and buy the Interlock Kit it is best to check if it will meet code or if a Transfer Switch is required. If the DYI person take the position of what code enforcement doesn't know won't hurt me, two situations to think about. If you sell your house down the road you may have thrown in a large monkey wrench into the sale. You will have to bring it up to code which will likely cost you more money and delay the sale or cause the deal to fall apart your buyer to wonder what else doesn't meet code. The next concern I would have what if the is a electrical fire, will the insurance company going to fight the claim? I don't know if this is remotely likely or not but a call to building and code would give me some peace of mind.
Tip, dont run your generator directly in the rain like that it can damage electrical components try to cover it from the elements while still allowing it to "breathe" in all directions.
Yeah.....NEVER start your generator under load. You need to start it and then close the breaker on the generator, sending power to the house once you get the generator up to speed.
Nice setup but even though that generator is bonded to the frame don't you need a ground rod at the generator when connecting to the service panel though your inlet box?
I was always told (by master electrician boss), to start the genset first, let it stabilize for a minute, then start adding loads. Also, avoid stopping the genset with a load attached.
You are aware that you don’t have a 9500watt Wgen you have a 7500 watt unit and a 9500 watt Wgen has a 50 amp outlet. You wouldn’t have to gat a 12000 watt Wgen to have a 50 amp outlet. What did you do about having a bonded neutral Wgen? Is your service panel compatible with that? Or did you change the ground wiring in your gen.
Okay, so you have a gasoline powered generator. How much gasoline do you have on hand to run the generator? In a power outage, it's possible that you won't be able to get gasoline because it takes electricity to run a gasoline station. You stated that you have a gas furnace, shouldn't you be using a tri fuel generator so you can utilize your natural gas supply?
Got the same setup generator at my house. 2 years now with several outages, and westinghouse works as i hoped. Perfect. You will be happy with your purchase.
Have you ever tried to use it in the cold? I've seen some reviews that is VERY hard to start in the cold, just asking cause I'm really considering buying this generator soon, I live in south texas
@@arnoldmartinez6973 I have noticed with my 9500watt/12500 peak westinghouse if it is colder it is a little harder to start. It does have an automatic choke, but you can manually choke it also which can help. I run a 50 amp setup, I wouldn't recommend the 30 amp because it may put you too close to the limit depending on what circuits you want to run. With a 50 amp, we run all the criticals and the central air conditioning without a problem.
I have an interlock kit and 50A 125/250V NEMA 14-50R female receptacle on the outside of my house. Although my generator only has a L14-30R outlet. That means I need a cord with male plugs on both ends. Should I switch out the female receptacle on the house and make it a male inlet? Otherwise I have to use a special adapter cord that has L14-30P to 14-50P. Thoughts? Thanks.
I was hoping to save up for a permanent natural gas generator, but I think you've convinced me to give this a go. How far from the panel can the 30/50A inlet be? Our panel is in our basement nowhere near the driveway. If we wanted to run it out the back near the telecom panel, then we'd need to drag the generator quite a ways. Doable in rain, notsomuch in a deep snowfall. Also humorous that the 50A parts in your list are currently cheaper than the 30A parts. My mind is made up!
My inlet box is on the backside of my house. My panel is on the side of my house near the front. My lines are buried in PVC, and I have a 15' cord running from my generator to the inlet box.
Where I live, that thing would have been stolen before you got it plugged in. If you plan to run one of these for a more than an hour and live in a place like I do, find a way to bolt it to the ground.
How do you keep it from being stolen if it's in front of the house? Maybe a stupid question, but is it possible to leave it in the garage and leave it partially opened and some sort of exhaust or fan to push the gases out?
I got a similar setup installed earlier this year for a total of around $2K. That includes the 50A inlet, generator, 50 ft generator cord, and natural gas tie-in. As long as I can get gasoline, propane, or don't run out of natural gas, I'll have electricity in an outage. I really should get a generator shed.
This video's premise is powering your house in case of natural disaster. That said, given the lessons we learned from Hurricane Katrina and the various riots from that, you should also discuss how to *secure* your critical, valuable, life-supporting generator. Consider tethering it to a pole or your car with a chain or heavy rope so it does not get stolen by the desperate and unprepared.
Isn’t there a way to measure the maximum amp draw of your house over a month to see what is needed to power it? This idea of trying to estimate the power of your appliances leaves lots of room for error.
Pretty sure that generator is NOT supposed to be out in the rain but perhaps it is. I bought the bigger (13,500) Westinghouse version that specifically calls out not exposing to rain or snow. I was initially bummed to learn that but decided to locate it inside an old unused concrete storm shelter a few steps out our back door. That will protect from the elements as well as deaden the sound while it is running.
great video and thanks for the link to moving circuit breakers. Question: My panel is not properly labeled. What is the best way to identify circuits? I suspect some of the wiring supplies different parts of the house. For example it looks like my outside outlets and my kitchen are all on the same circuit.
There are circuit tracers that you can plug a transmitter into an outlet and touch each breaker with the receiver to find the match. Or the old fashioned way is to turn on everything and start flipping breakers. It’s good to hav3 a few helpers rather than running around by yourself, but it can be done. Of course, this interrupts each circuit, so things like clocks, computes, and alarms systems will be affected. I carry a light bulb with a plug adapter to test outlets so that critical devices can be powered off properly.
Suggestion for a backup circuit... If you have a garage with garage door openers should be backed up. Many garage door openers have a battery backup so it's not much of a load except to recharge the batteries.
My push button start 3.5KW 120v Pure Sign Wave Inverter Gas Generator WILL cold start under full load; and shut down under full load.... Done it dozens of times. My Solar Battery driven 3.5KW PSW Inverter will too. Can switch from Grid to Solar Inverter fast enough my big PC's never skip a beat. Make sure you but a Pure Sign Wave Inverter Generator. I don't even touch my Main Panel.
@dwmcever It is not the generator that can be harmed it is electric motors and appliances that can be harmed. You always should cut power to the house using the generator's main breaker (unless you have a transfer switch) and then stop the generator. Likewise, start the generator with the breaker off and then, once it is up to speed, send power to the house.
it certainly doesn't appear that the generator is an "inverter" generator. Is it? And what about your sensitive power using appliances., computer maybe. Something I've always wondered about.
The interlock is the absolute best approach other than a full standby generator, but a full standby generator only really works where there is natural gas. We have had two serious long duration power outages where I live (Texas) and the 4 day outage two years ago was brutal. I swore I would never be out of power for days again so I put in an interlock and a 5KW generator. This will not run my AC, but my summer outages then to be short (2-3 hours at most). The last ice storm knocked out power for 3.5 days, and I was one of the only people in the neighborhood that had a generator. I lived a normal life. Since then, 5 of my neighbors have put in interlocks and bought 5KW generators. They may never use them, but the know that if they needed power during a long freeze, they won't have to worry.
Try installing an Easy Start Flex unit from Micro-Air on your AC condenser. A portable generator can't handle the in rush amperage when the compressor engages.
wrong wrong wrong..should of had the generator already runny before switching on loads one by one allowing generator to stabilize after each load added
hey nice video! FYI your order of operations is not the best. You should make sure all the breakers are off until after the generator is plugged in and running, then turn the breakers that you would like to use. Most devices and appliances are sensitive to under or over voltage. As the generator ramps up and down on start up and shut down, this can create an imprper supply voltage to the equiptment you are powering. Plus starting the generator under load is not good for the generator. Unless it is a generator inverter then it really doesn't matter but none the less it is good practice to be safe. This is how i do it. 1. Turn off Main Breaker and all branch circuits 2. Start generator let it warm up while doing the next steps (make sure it is within your cords reach) 3. Roll out your cord then plug female side in first to back feed plug, then male end to the generator side 4. Go to the electrical panel. turn on the generator back feed breaker. 5. One by one turn on critical circuits starting with the largest loads first. (if you are familiar with what the circuits draw) The size of the breakers don't reflect the actual load of each circuit. 6. Reverse this process when grid power is restored. 7. Be safe out there
3.4.23 Scott, great video and thanks for making it. I have the Westinghouse dual fuel 9500df running watts and 12500 peak watts. It has the 50amp plug and a 30amp plug. I have installed a 50amp box. This is my question: If you are running electronics inside the house what would the THD (total harmonic distortion) be and is it going to cause any damage?
I believe that generator has a bonded neutral. If you're hooking it to the house, you need to unbond it. You can only have one bonded neutral, and that's at the main disconnect panel.
Yes, this is exactly what I was thinking as I watched the video. Right on the generator plate it states that the neutral is bonded to the frame. Using a generator in this fashion, where it is a non-separately derived system, requires the removal of the neutral/frame bond (floating neutral), and a ground rod for the generator frame. Of course, millions of people use a generator in this fashion without issue, but it is nevertheless an unsafe practice, as you create an unsafe condition during a fault. Generator manufacturers should make it more easy to bond/unbond the neutral from the frame. Note: If you have a transfer switch that interrupts the neutral as well as the phase connections to utility, then the generator SHOULD have its neutral bonded to the frame, this being a separately derived system.
@@sigcrazy7 I agree with everything you say except for the ground rod. If you're plugging it into the house, the entire system is grounded with a ground rod at the panel.
@@whirlyblades Yes, I get that. I believe it’s an OSHA requirement to drive a rod on a separately derived system. Maybe NEC as well. It’s a moot point anyway, since no homeowner does so. I’d bet that 99% of DIY portable generators powering houses have their frame bonded. People figure if it works, carry on.
@@sigcrazy7the generator is grounded through the 4 prong cord, which connects to the houses grounding rod. Using a separate grounding rod can actually be dangerous in some rare instances. Don’t ground the generator just use the 4 prong cord- safe!
I had just done this a few months before the Texas freeze in February 2021 as well as converted my generator to natural gas. My 10 KW generator powered my entire house for two days. It was business as usual other than spotty internet due to not having fiber at the time and low water pressure, nether that had anything to do with the generator. I got a hard start kit for my AC and I can run that too plus power the whole house if I have any outages in warm weather. Just have to make sure if I'm using say the microwave to turn off the coffee maker or toaster. I also have a surge protector with a 3 minute delay on my fridge and deep freezer. The AC has a 5 minute delay. I have a gas dryer, water heater, stove and furnace. I don't turn any breakers off.
@@aldairsworld3314 both accomplished the same thing, hard start is cheaper. It has a potential relay and puts a capacitor in line during the start up to give it a boost. A soft start slowly ramps the compressor up.
Does that have a binded or floating neutral? I have a bonded neutral and as soon as I turn in a circuit the generator cranks up to max RPM even if it's only running 1 led bulb. I'm thinking I need to convert the generator to a floating neutral. Thoughts?
If it is a conventional generator (not an inverter generator), it must run at rated speed regardless of load in order to generate at the required 60 Hz.
I thought you could not use a generator like this to power sensitive electronics? Couldn't you mess up stuff like a HE furnace, and other electronics? I actually had one like this, but switched to an inverter because it is a lot cleaner. I watch your channel all the time and am very confused by this?
That's exactly what I discovered after purchasing the exact same generator. It has a very noisy sine wave. Some electronic equipment may be equipped with some form of power filter, I would be careful using it to power sensitive equipment.
I like the brand of Champion for generators. I bought one of their 2022 EFI 10500 starting watts (perfect sine wave). It is a beast, BUT I learned that it is not just sine wave that you have to look at, but the THD% (amount of noise). The one I got and the one in this video I think have upwards of a ~20% THD which can mess up sensitive electronics. The invertor generator I got (still Champion) is both a perfect sine wave and
I've used the caulking idea to make the numbers more legibl (I sometimes have trouble reading the stamped numbers) At my work, we have our lighting circuits marked the handles of those breakers with a yellow paint pen to make them more legible.
Interesting option. Pros: The savings (A Big Pro) Cons: Setup before running, can't run that much, but you can get by. Biggest fear: Power outage, loud generator next to a lit up house, is that thing going to be there in the morning?
I have a smaller Champion dual fuel inverter/generator that I keep connected to a battery tender in a storage box on the back deck - a much more secure location. It's way quieter than any gasoline generator and can run all night on just one bbq tank. From the street you can't even tell it's there running as it is placed under a table with a tarp draped over the table and the table is under a gazebo. It's safe from rain and passers by. It is only capable of 110 volts, but it's plenty of power for the furnace, refrigerator, freezer etc. Plus, full propane tanks can be kept for years as long as you keep them out of the rain.
Paint marker works just as well without the caulk mess. You could even use different colors to mark out different circuits for different times of the day.
Excellent video and setup! My only suggestion would be to consider converting the generator to run on natural gas, if you have gas on your property and if your meter location is workable. It's a straightforward conversion on this generator (basically - replace the existing regulator with a larger one). You'll have an endless fuel supply and won't have to worry about old gasoline fouling your carburetor or fuel lines.
@@ryanvandy1615 My thoughts as well. I don't have very many power issues where I live, hardly anything over an hour without power, so one of those standby generators is way out of my budget for the use it would ever seem to get....honestly it would do its weekly or monthly test and that would probably be the highlight of its career LOL. Usually the outages we get here in southern Idaho are just enough to need to reset all the clocks in the house and wait for the satellite receiver to initialize LOL. One of those generators would, however be much more critical to someone that relies on any sort of electrical medical equipment that needs 24/7 power, and you really wouldn't be wanting or be able to drag out a generator, and cord, and all that mess. I'd love to have one of those standby generators, but yep, they're expensive, and it wouldn't be utilized nearly as often as it would need to be in order to gain anything from it.
This is much too complicated for the average consumer. If anything, people have a small generator and a few extension cords , maybe a 5 gallon gas jug (if that). Our house is on solar, I run a 6500 watt Honda to charge batteries if no sun.
I just want something smaller that can run a tv and PS4 with no noise. Something that can last an entire day without power. Maybe enough to plug in a small fridge too. I like to one N done buy things. Maybe i can even take it camping. Something i can recharge when power is available too.
Hello Scott, My Name Is Fidel And I Have A Few Questions That I Need Your Opinion On, I'm In The Process Of Purchasing A Portable Generator And I Want To Make The Right Choice #1. Is Westinghouse A Good Brand Generator Compared To The Champion Brand? #2. What's Your Opinion On A Dual Fuel Generator? #3. Just Curious As To Why You Didn't Run The 50 Amp Outlet From Your Westinghouse Generator Into Your Home Having A 200 Amp Service Panel? Thanks For Your Opinions Scott Love Your Videos...👍🏼
I have the 9500/12000 and run my entire house, HVAC 3 ton, 2 Mini Splits, 2 refrigerators, 1 Freezer, along with Lights and Tvs, Its only the 2 of us so we do use only lights in the room we are in, FYI I did put a Soft Start in the AC
Nice setup, I have the same thing ;-) I was wondering, is there some kind of device that can installed on the grid mains to detect when the grid comes back online so I know when to unhook the generator. I know I could use a transfer switch, but was wondering if there was something simpler that would light up a small light or trigger a relay or something? Thanks!
80% Breaker Rating Rule? If you have a branch circuit supplying nothing but ?continuous loads,? then the minimum conductor size must have an ampacity of 125% of the load ? 210.19(A)(1) ? and the overcurrent protection must be 125% of the load ? 210.20(A). Therefore, the breaker must be loaded to no more than 80% of its rating. so a 30 amp breaker is good for 24 amps 30 x 80 % = 24 amps same for 20 amp 50 amp 100 amp
Really important people realize that most portable generators have bonded neutrals. So by hooking into your main service panel, where the neutral and ground are also bonded, you’ve now created two paths back to the source (objectionable current) and that’s a code violation. You’d either have to unbond the generator when you hook into your home, or add a transfer switch that isn’t bonded. If you take the jumper out that bonds your generator, just realize that if you go to use it portable it now has no path back to the source in a ground fault situation. That’s why portable generators are usually bonded, they are assumed to be used in the field apart from a main panel. Edit: I went with the same setup as you with a portable and an interlock kit. I just pulled the jumper and made sure to keep it with the generator in case I need to use it on the go.
I'm glad someone else said this besides me. Mine has a floating neutral so, if I ever run it as a standalone, I'm gonna need a jumper, which I don't have. But I don't really see where I'd need it that way, but you never know.
@@whirlyblades same here. I’ve never really had need for a generator on the go but doing it this way saves a lot of money over a permanent install. I just hope people do the research on properly doing this
I fashioned a bonding jumper using a 240 volt 30 amp plug with the neutral and ground prongs jumpered, which I keep tethered to the Gen. The retores the generator's neutral-to-ground bonding. If I ever do run the generator stand alone I'll just be using its 120 volt receptacles anyway. Note: Jumpering at the 120 volt receptacle will likely trip its built-in GFCI.
Is my electrician in St. Louis trying to pull on me? When I asked if he could install a 50 amp generator Inlet box with interlock, he said that wasn’t up to code and I would need a separate subpanel with the critical circuits I wanted for the inlet box to power. I said that sounded like a transfer switch and I did not want that. He said no it’s not a transfer switch and said it had to be done that way because of code. He tried to give me a reason I couldn’t hook my inlet box to my main directly because my main was a 200A board and since I was only hooking up a 50a inlet…..can you help?
I have a doubt, my generator is a predator 7250 mx 9000 watts generator, with 30 amps max. My electric stove is a 50 amp...could I run just one burner?
Maybe I missed it, but did you talk about the bonding? Should it be changed to floating bond? I have the very same generator and have added my interlock and plug, but the interlock keeps the neutral and ground bonded at the box. The generator is bonded as well. Code says you must have only one bonding.
I purchased the exact same generator as my backup power source. I purchased the optional automatic ST Switch but don't use it as I'm utilizing the 50 amp outlet and the inlet box with the interlock kit. You can also purchase the automatic ST switch to power appliances from the 30amp outlet. When plugged into the grid, when the power goes out, the Switch sends a signal to the generator to start it. When the grid power is restored, the automatic switch powers down the generator. This is a very nice generator with plenty of power to power my whole house. Thankfully the only major appliances that draw a lot of power are the refrigerator, furnace, microwave and AC unit. Thanks for the tutorial video.
As a professional electrical contractor, I install a LOT of these set-ups. I will NEVER install the inlet inside of the garage (unless there is absolutely no other option. I've only done that once). CO2 kills more people every year than you would believe. While the current homeowner might be smart enough to properly run the generator, he might sell the house to an idiot, who buys the cheapest short cord, runs a generator inside the garage, and kills his family. Installing the inlet outside of the garage at least decreases that possibility (I hope).
It’s easier on the generator if you flip the circuits on one by one after the generator is running
I was told the same thing to go one by one
Also turn off one by one. power shedding.
Pro tip - keep a magnetic led flashlight on the breaker box because in a power outage you may not be able to see the breakers.
That is exactly what I do.
@@Kevin-mp5of Believe it or not, there are some of us old farts that don't have our smartphone surgically attached to our hand. :-)
Great tip! Having a magnetic LED flashlight on the breaker box is definitely a smart move during power outages. Speaking of backup power, have you heard about the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series? It's a versatile powerhouse with a massive capacity, fast recharging, and comprehensive protections. It could be a great addition to your outdoor gear or home backup power setup! Check it out!
Pro tip - make sure ur phone is charged and u can use the flash light on ur phone.
I know I am late to this video. I have a question and some other suggestions.
Q: What do you do with the dirty power for your electronics you run like your laptop, cell phone, etc? I am always worried about this being an issue for a non-inverter type generator. The Inverter type are about double the price and I was not aware of this concern when I got my generator. So far this has not been an issue the one time I used it for about 4 hours.
I have a 9500 Watt (12500 Watt peek) Westinghouse dual fuel generator that included regulator for propane. (50 amp option)
1) Keeping gasoline is an issue but I found during the last hurricane I could still get propane when the gasoline was not available. So have enough gas to get by a few days. Then propane until gas is available again. I live about 50 miles inland so normally it is a couple of days with no access to gas depending on how bad it gets.
2) For running my 3.5 ton AC I added an EasyStart Micro-Air 368 so the startup amps are much less and can add life to my AC unit. So AC from the generator does not overload and trip the circuit breaker when it starts.
3) I have generator tent running cover that is "windproof." I found this on Amazon for about $140 and allows it to run in the rain but covering much of the unit and stakes to hold it down.
4) In my case when a hurricane is coming I will get the generator in place in my back yard enclosed by a solid fence away from the house. This does a couple of things. Dampens the sound for the neighbors a little and also it makes it harder for someone to be notice it and keep it from being stolen. The remote starter makes it so I will not need to go outside to start it and I just have to go to the garage and flip the interlock.
5) Find a fuel pump for a gas can to move the gas much quicker than pouring it in to minimize time out in the elements. I found one that moves 5 gallons of gas in about 2 minutes. Found that on Amazon for about $60 that runs on AA batteries. There are manual pumps for cheaper but I wanted to not have to lift and hold the can while in the wind and/or rain.
SAM's has a UPS system for $120.00 that includes AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation) which takes care of dirty power issues.
This dirty power thing is so overblown and only even brought up because people let the generators surge like crazy running them out of fuel.
I have the same generator. I run my electronics through a couple of UPS and also added surge protects in addition even though the UPS's have surge protection. No issues so far. The UPS's didn't like the generator power. But when I plugged them into surge protects they seem OK with it.
While what you did in the beginning works, its recommended to run the motor first with everything on and then slowly turn everything on with the biggest loads first. This will ensure the generator can keep up and avoid dangerous drops in power.
I’m sorry do you mean start to turn things off after a little bit? The comment didn’t make sense to me.
Love all your videos. I have a very similar setup except using the larger 12K Westinghouse with 50A cord. At the beginning I noticed you dragging the generator out on your driveway in the rain. Is this not a problem? I purchased a cover protect the generator from rain. Now I'm wondering if I really needed to. Also, both our generators have a bonded neutral. I'm pretty sure the cord connection you have is sharing a neutral with the panel. And in your panel the neutral is bonded with the ground. So I believe code recommends you unbond the generator neutral making it a floating neutral. Of course if you ever directly connect a load to the generator you will need to reverse that. And finally, I was told it's best practice to turn off all breakers before connecting generator to panel, and then after starting generator turn on individual breakers. Especially important to do this with larger breakers. Again, thanks for all your helpful videos!
I have the Wen 12500 watt gen and manual says do not run it in the rain.
This has helped me a lot. I knew the basics, wattage & amperage, but your walk through made it easier to understand. I just had my 50A inlet installed today.
Really a remote control. Fantastic. Very interesting video. Thank you for sharing
You bet!
Start the generator first, then add the loads. Read the generator manual.
Hi, my suggestion is I would look at a dome tent that is designed for the Generator. I notice it is raining in the video and water and electric is never good to mix.
Would recommend brand products but the interlock is the best. 34' boats and larger w/Gen sets do this at the service box. The on switch for "GEN" is off and shore current is on. The slide will not let you switch anything unless outside power is off. They slide moves only with one on. Write a draft of procedures and type & print. Place in a page protector and simply note; #1, #2 and so on. It has been 6 or 7 years since we had a power failure of 15 minutes or more. We are not spending Buick money to have a stationary generator hooked to natural gas and no one has propane. We honestly don't have room for all of this and besides an electrician, you will need a gas contractor to calculate max fuel to get pipe size because that changes just like a longer cord or higher load, needs larger wire. Luckily, almost 25 years ago I bought cable to run my 150 Amp welder and by the foot, it was an expense then but today, multiply that times 10+. Yes, now fifty foot later, I can do drive-by mail box welding! Yeh! On and off items like a sump pump also have a current in-rush. This means to start when at room temperature, it may draw 15-20 amps more to start up. This can cause a brown out if at the max and damage some older electronics. So keep things off, use the marker or paper dots all the same color, say green. The fade is nothing and a magic marker will make them new.
Gas generators like a car, need maintenance. Add a fuel stabilizer for long term storage, start and run for 15 minutes while checking voltage. Change the fuel with fresh. Mine runs 16 hrs on full with 1" room of air. Change oil every two years, but some do not use detergent oil. These are long term investments. Read, ask what kind of oil pump the engine used, warranty card, etc.
ASE Master Since 1978. I chain mine to concrete pocket hook that is 12 ton, 10 ton chain and two pad locks inside thru the door. Yes, auto repair shops vent exhaust thru round doors installed in the overhead door. Make a few calls.
You should NOT power all critical circuits at the same time. Proper sequence is largest circuit load fist, then next largest circuit load and so on and so forth. Large loads would be freezers, refrigerators, window AC, electric cook top.
If you leave a generator near a road at night, when you wake up it won't be there. Last hurricane in Houston (in a nice area) people had a lot of generators stolen out of their back yards with locked fences in the middle of the night.
I am in the early stages of planning to do this. My biggest concern is whether I should go with an inverter generator. I am concerned about the quality of the power being supplied to run modern day appliances and electronics. I know inverters are more expensive.
The one thing on using a large wattage/amp generator is the size of the engine to drive it. If running gasoline, and at high load, that's a *lot* of gasoline. Assumption is not only you have no power, but neither does anybody else closeby. Gas stations nearby cant pump and what kind of container are you going to put all that gasoline in? A 5 gallon container isn't going to get you much run time, especially under load... If you have natural gas, maybe look for a dual fuel generator. Hauling gasoline in the back of you car stinks - back and forth to wherever you find a working gas station. Or, go small, like a 2000-2500 watt inverter type. and conserve or alternate what you choose to run and when. I had a 5500 watt open frame generator and at 60-70% load, 7 gal of gas ran about 7-8 hours. Be thoughtful in what you spend your money on... I survived no AC as a kid just fine.
ive been a electrician for 40 years. the system you are showing in my opinion is the best route you can go. everything is much more cost effective. the interloc will never fail. going to the $10k option has more options that can fail. Also when you use the generator for emergency situations it could be years before its needed
@@cliffkinsel6295 in Texas we are needing backup power on a yearly basis.
Also an electrician and I agree. I try to recommend this over standby for anyone besides for elderly people lol
Great info amd easy to understand thank you for helping with my decision on which route to go with 👍🏼
Yes I have about $2200 in my system 50 AMP and a 9500/12,000 watt generator, Much cheaper then the Stand alone that they wanted $12,000 to install
@@mattnichols9614 I bought this generator from Menards for $1,119.99. I had an electrician install the transfer switch and wiring.
Verry clear and useful instructions. You did cover everything needed. The only thing that I would do different is to open all of the circuits in the house before turning on the generator. Then turn on the circuits one at a time. This is how the electricians would bring on a large building where I worked. Thanks again.
Place a laminated "critical circuit list" and how to do each step by step next to the breaker box. Attach a grease pencil to the list with boxes to check each step as it completed.
Teach your wife to do each step by step and work it through in real steps.
Instead of her calling you or the neighbors in a panic mode.
I should know. I've received calls with my wife in a panic mode before even with minor issues.
That when I call my older daughter and have her walk through the steps.
It's the panic mode that kills people.
Or better yet. Teach your family to work the list through.
Have an emergency kit prepared. Complete with flashlight. Tools if needed.
Years ago I bought a similar portable generator and had a manual transfer switch installed. Critical circuit list includes the well pump, boiler/indirect water heater, sump pump, smoke detectors, fridge, freezer, microwave oven and a few lighting circuits. Just enough to call it "indoor camping" :)
You left out the coffee maker. Critical.
@@maxwellcrazycat9204 Naw, neither of us drinks coffee so we haven't wasted a dime of retirement money on that habit
Based on your videos I installed an Interlock, 50amp breaker, and the 9500kw Westinghouse. It works like a charm! Runs the entire house plus one my central ACs. I have a window AC that can be installed easily for the master bedroom if the power is out for more than a few hours.
I run the generator in a detached shed to keep it out of the weather (had to install an attic fan in the shed to exhaust the carbon monoxide).
Nice setup 👊! Yeah I might need one of those little generator tents.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I like the idea of the shed to keep it out of my garage and not out in the open. I'm getting all sorts of ideas here. . .
I did the same. However most portable generators have bonded neutrals so you would have to unbond the ground and neutral before hooking into your main service panel. The ground and neutral are both bonded there in your house, and having two places bonded (the other back at the generator) creates objectionable current and is a code violation. If you do unbond your generator just make sure you put that jumper back in if you use it portably as now any ground fault will not have a path back to the source.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I Recommend to build a Generator Shed.....To Reduce Noise and keep the Rain 🌧️ out
Michael, You might want to do what I did. If your generator has a 1" O.D. for the exhaust tip. Look for a 24mm/0.94" 316 Stainless Steel Thru Hull Exhaust Tip used on boats with those little Diesel Heaters. Also get 1"Inner Diameter Stainless Steel Heater Exhaust Pipe at least 2 feet long if not longer. Depending where you want to place your generator. I have ours on our closed in back porch and exhausted out the wall. That way I can keep the door closed and locked and the generator out of the weather.
@6:30: Just because the circuits are on doesn't mean they're pulling loads. You say you were at 11 amps and that you have more capacity, but was that with full expected loads on the circuits (e.g., range on, kettle on, TV on, etc.)?
@Kevin : Try again. At the time stamp you noted, he specifically said he's running the circuits, not that he's pulling loads on those circuits. There's a difference between a live circuit and a load. He says he's pulling 11 amps, but it's not clear what's live. E.g., a kettle alone would pull 10+ amps.
Many years ago I bought a very small generator just adequate to run the heating system. Of course, since then there have been no power failures at all and the generator is still in the box.
But you know if you didn’t buy it there would have been a major outage the next week 😂
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yup...like washing the car to make it rain.
I have bought home insurance for 20 years and never had to make a claim. Same thing.
Knock on wood. Lol. Same here. We put an inlet in for cord and haven't had to use it.
It pay to fire it up every three months and put a load on it so it doesn’t lose charge
I installed a 50-amp interlock with a 11,500-watt portable generator. I regard my system as an insurance policy. Sure a permanently installed natural gas Generac would be nicer and less bother during an infrequent outage, but at roughly 10-times the total-installed-cost I could not justify it. Nice video.
I have roughly the same set up for the same reasons. During our last hurricane I heard too many stories of people w whole house generators that failed. If my $1,000 generator fails I can easily replace it. A whole house generator w automatic transfer switch would be sweet, but they're too damn expensive and can still fail when you need them.
@@michaeliverson8464 Even if your portable generator fails, you may not find one anywhere remotely close to replace it....but at least you probably have a neighbor with a generator you could run a cord to if you really had to temporarily while you tracked down a replacement generator.
Yep, those whole house backup/standby generators sound great, until, what I hear frequently is when you actually need the dang thing and it doesn't work at all. For what those things cost, it seems people have way too many problems with them.
I don't have a generator at all anymore, don't have enough power outages to justify owning one...and have no use for a generator otherwise.
Very helpful video. Thank you!
How long will that Westinghouse run on the 6.6g of gasoline or a standard grill propane tank? Just curious how much of a hassle we'd be looking at in a multi-day outage.
Probably about 8-12 hours depending on load. On full load most likely closer to 7-8 hours. Really isn't very long especially if you have days without power as often happens in the backcountry homes during bad weather. A better solution would be a dedicated bulk propane tank of several hundred gallons, or being connected to your natural gas supplier.
Amperes not amperage * Power failure, not outage * 1 amp. More than 1 = amps. Plural. * Great video. I purchased Wago lever nuts from your store in The Amazon.
I use tiny little magnets and place them next to the circuit breakers I want to turn in during a backup. Can easily move them around if you change your mind or move breakers at some point.
How are ppl not worried of these getting stolen from your driveway? Ppl literally steal Amazon packages 😂
Right? I just leave mine in the garage with the garage door open 1/4 of the way. All the way in the driveway seems extreme.
I was thinking the same. You gonna need to chain it to something
You title it “an amazon generator” i picked mine up at lowes. Had it a few years and its pretty decent for the price.
I have the same exact setup, including the same Westinghouse generator and it powers my house perfectly. My area just got hit with a Cat 4 Typhoon 2 months ago and we were without power for about 3 weeks. This generator setup kept us comfortable during that time. We were easily able to run lights, AC and refrigerator to keep food from spoiling.
If money is tight, this is an excellent option for home backup power.
Great video and the detailed explanation is excellent for those who may be looking for a similar option. 👍🏼
Do you have a 3 ton AC?
What AC?
That's basically what I did. Except I installed a sub panel for a critical load panel. Than all my criticals to that with an interlock. Than used 6awg copper to a CS6365 for a 50 amp plug. Only have a 30 amp 8250 Gen right now, but I'm in the process of ordering a 16k fuel injected portable generator. That should be very efficient fuel wise and easy on the generator for wear and tear.
@6:30: Given that you work on a live panel, it'd be a good idea to put safety caps on your service lugs.
Why wouldn't you start the generator after it's been plugged in before turning on the generator breaker? I'd want the generator to stabilize before turning on any circuits.
It's silly to sit that generator out in the rain. There are many types of inexpensive coverings that will help keep the rain/snow off the running generator. I also question the 25-feet thing. As long as it is out in the open and not near any open windows you will be fine. If in doubt, install a CO detector near the window nearest to where you plan to sit the generator. I use the same type of Interlock system for a whole house solution using a Honda 6500W generator. I have bright orange stick-on dots next to the breakers that need to be turned off when running a generator. I also keep a magnetic flashlight stuck to the panel so I can see to throw breakers during the outage. Even with my 6500W unit I can run the whole house except for the central air and water heater. In an emergency I can run the water heater if I turn off a few additional breakers. Don't forget an alarm to tell you when power comes back on. This is very important for daytime power failures when you can't just look out the window and see the neighborhood lights on. :-)
@eosjoe, what do you use to protect your Honda gen from the elements?
@@Kevin-mp5of Really? How do you do that? Do you use a ramp to get your generator into the back of your SUV?
What is the alarm you referenced that tells you when the power is back on?
@@FREIMUZIC I took three square pieces of 1/4-inch plywood and joined them together with two piano hinges. I can then hang this over the handles and it shields the entire front of the generator. My gen sits on a covered patio when in operation so I mainly just need to shield the control panel and air intake from blowing rain and snow.
@@tzavitz It is a Reliance Controls THP108 "Power Back" alarm. It has a sense wire which wraps around one of the main panel feed wires. It is magnetic and you can just stick it to the front of your panel. It uses a 9V battery and you turn it ON when you switch to generator power. When it senses power on the main feed it emits a loud warbling siren that can be heard throughout the house. You can get them at various places including Amazon. It is the perfect solution for determining when power is restored.
Hello:
I see in this video you placed your Westinghouse generator outside in the rain. I understand that a generator needs to be in some type of shelter.
Please note, regular generators can damage in a long run your AC compresor!! Regular generators produce electical distortion THD above normal safety for sensitive equipment. Get a mini split AC system 110 volt and inverter generator instead! Inverter generators are 5% THD, while regular generators are above 23%. Make sure to avoid wet conditions, keep the generator above wet surfaces!! Never refuel when engine is running wait until is cool!!
That is clean AF!!! Beautiful!
How can you tell when power is restored and you can switch the system back to the grid?
Before you would run out and buy the Interlock Kit it is best to check if it will meet code or if a Transfer Switch is required. If the DYI person take the position of what code enforcement doesn't know won't hurt me, two situations to think about. If you sell your house down the road you may have thrown in a large monkey wrench into the sale. You will have to bring it up to code which will likely cost you more money and delay the sale or cause the deal to fall apart your buyer to wonder what else doesn't meet code. The next concern I would have what if the is a electrical fire, will the insurance company going to fight the claim? I don't know if this is remotely likely or not but a call to building and code would give me some peace of mind.
Tip, dont run your generator directly in the rain like that it can damage electrical components try to cover it from the elements while still allowing it to "breathe" in all directions.
Yeah.....NEVER start your generator under load. You need to start it and then close the breaker on the generator, sending power to the house once you get the generator up to speed.
Have same set up with 50 amp hook up.
Nice setup but even though that generator is bonded to the frame don't you need a ground rod at the generator when connecting to the service panel though your inlet box?
It might be better to start the generator and let it stabilize before you turn on any of the breakers. Then turn the breakers on one at a time.
I was always told (by master electrician boss), to start the genset first, let it stabilize for a minute, then start adding loads. Also, avoid stopping the genset with a load attached.
Excellent point
You are aware that you don’t have a 9500watt Wgen you have a 7500 watt unit and a 9500 watt Wgen has a 50 amp outlet. You wouldn’t have to gat a 12000 watt Wgen to have a 50 amp outlet. What did you do about having a bonded neutral Wgen? Is your service panel compatible with that? Or did you change the ground wiring in your gen.
Okay, so you have a gasoline powered generator. How much gasoline do you have on hand to run the generator? In a power outage, it's possible that you won't be able to get gasoline because it takes electricity to run a gasoline station. You stated that you have a gas furnace, shouldn't you be using a tri fuel generator so you can utilize your natural gas supply?
Yes, I should have bought a tri-fuel generator yesterday, but I needed one quick and Lowes only had the dual-fuel.
Always start generator first to warm up first turn breaker on after that never have breaker on when starting generator
Got the same setup generator at my house. 2 years now with several outages, and westinghouse works as i hoped. Perfect. You will be happy with your purchase.
Have you ever tried to use it in the cold? I've seen some reviews that is VERY hard to start in the cold, just asking cause I'm really considering buying this generator soon, I live in south texas
@@arnoldmartinez6973 I have noticed with my 9500watt/12500 peak westinghouse if it is colder it is a little harder to start. It does have an automatic choke, but you can manually choke it also which can help. I run a 50 amp setup, I wouldn't recommend the 30 amp because it may put you too close to the limit depending on what circuits you want to run. With a 50 amp, we run all the criticals and the central air conditioning without a problem.
I have an interlock kit and 50A 125/250V NEMA 14-50R female receptacle on the outside of my house. Although my generator only has a L14-30R outlet. That means I need a cord with male plugs on both ends. Should I switch out the female receptacle on the house and make it a male inlet? Otherwise I have to use a special adapter cord that has L14-30P to 14-50P. Thoughts? Thanks.
I was hoping to save up for a permanent natural gas generator, but I think you've convinced me to give this a go. How far from the panel can the 30/50A inlet be? Our panel is in our basement nowhere near the driveway. If we wanted to run it out the back near the telecom panel, then we'd need to drag the generator quite a ways. Doable in rain, notsomuch in a deep snowfall.
Also humorous that the 50A parts in your list are currently cheaper than the 30A parts. My mind is made up!
I had to make my own 50amp extension cord from my shed to my panel. IIRC it's 80 feet.
My inlet box is on the backside of my house. My panel is on the side of my house near the front. My lines are buried in PVC, and I have a 15' cord running from my generator to the inlet box.
Gas is perfect for short term power outages. Big ice or hurricane, earth quake or SHTF the natural gas is off. Then you still need this.
Where I live, that thing would have been stolen before you got it plugged in. If you plan to run one of these for a more than an hour and live in a place like I do, find a way to bolt it to the ground.
When powering a house, it is important to unbond the generator's neutral from ground to comply with the National Electrical Code.
@user-id1bf1us8w yes it creates objectionable current since there are now two paths back to the source with both being bonded.
How do you keep it from being stolen if it's in front of the house? Maybe a stupid question, but is it possible to leave it in the garage and leave it partially opened and some sort of exhaust or fan to push the gases out?
Better than the caulk idea is a white paint hobby pen.
I put bright orange stick-on dots next to the couple breakers that need to be turned off when on generator.
0:30 why not just close your garage door on the genny sitting closer to the house?
In an actual outage I will close the door with the extension cord running under the closed garage door. 👍
You need a GenTent or something similar to cover up the generator and protect it from rain
Thanks
I got a similar setup installed earlier this year for a total of around $2K. That includes the 50A inlet, generator, 50 ft generator cord, and natural gas tie-in. As long as I can get gasoline, propane, or don't run out of natural gas, I'll have electricity in an outage. I really should get a generator shed.
Nice setup 👊
Which generator are you using
@@SamJones1337 Firman T09275, but Costco usually has Firman generators for a couple hundred bucks less than the manufacturer.
This video's premise is powering your house in case of natural disaster.
That said, given the lessons we learned from Hurricane Katrina and the various riots from that, you should also discuss how to *secure* your critical, valuable, life-supporting generator. Consider tethering it to a pole or your car with a chain or heavy rope so it does not get stolen by the desperate and unprepared.
Heavy rope? Seriously?
We are slowly reverting back to a third world country status. Ridiculous.
Billions to ukraine but the powergrid nah its fine....
lol using a generator 3 days out of the year is not third world country status
Isn’t there a way to measure the maximum amp draw of your house over a month to see what is needed to power it? This idea of trying to estimate the power of your appliances leaves lots of room for error.
Pretty sure that generator is NOT supposed to be out in the rain but perhaps it is. I bought the bigger (13,500) Westinghouse version that specifically calls out not exposing to rain or snow. I was initially bummed to learn that but decided to locate it inside an old unused concrete storm shelter a few steps out our back door. That will protect from the elements as well as deaden the sound while it is running.
My manual says do not run in the rain. Which is what I've always believed. I wonder if it happened to be raining when he wanted to do the video.
great video and thanks for the link to moving circuit breakers. Question: My panel is not properly labeled. What is the best way to identify circuits? I suspect some of the wiring supplies different parts of the house. For example it looks like my outside outlets and my kitchen are all on the same circuit.
There are circuit tracers that you can plug a transmitter into an outlet and touch each breaker with the receiver to find the match. Or the old fashioned way is to turn on everything and start flipping breakers. It’s good to hav3 a few helpers rather than running around by yourself, but it can be done. Of course, this interrupts each circuit, so things like clocks, computes, and alarms systems will be affected. I carry a light bulb with a plug adapter to test outlets so that critical devices can be powered off properly.
Suggestion for a backup circuit... If you have a garage with garage door openers should be backed up. Many garage door openers have a battery backup so it's not much of a load except to recharge the batteries.
Quick tip! You should not start or stop a generator if it is under load, meaning if it is running anything.
Thanks for calling that out and thanks for the feedback.
My push button start 3.5KW 120v Pure Sign Wave Inverter Gas Generator WILL cold start under full load; and shut down under full load.... Done it dozens of times. My Solar Battery driven 3.5KW PSW Inverter will too. Can switch from Grid to Solar Inverter fast enough my big PC's never skip a beat. Make sure you but a Pure Sign Wave Inverter Generator. I don't even touch my Main Panel.
@dwmcever It is not the generator that can be harmed it is electric motors and appliances that can be harmed. You always should cut power to the house using the generator's main breaker (unless you have a transfer switch) and then stop the generator. Likewise, start the generator with the breaker off and then, once it is up to speed, send power to the house.
I Really Want to SEE you do Generator modification in Reducing Noise Level....🤣👍😅
Out in the rain like that? Just asking for problems.
it certainly doesn't appear that the generator is an "inverter" generator. Is it? And what about your sensitive power using appliances., computer maybe. Something I've always wondered about.
Did it develop any rust from rain exposure?
The interlock is the absolute best approach other than a full standby generator, but a full standby generator only really works where there is natural gas. We have had two serious long duration power outages where I live (Texas) and the 4 day outage two years ago was brutal. I swore I would never be out of power for days again so I put in an interlock and a 5KW generator. This will not run my AC, but my summer outages then to be short (2-3 hours at most). The last ice storm knocked out power for 3.5 days, and I was one of the only people in the neighborhood that had a generator. I lived a normal life. Since then, 5 of my neighbors have put in interlocks and bought 5KW generators. They may never use them, but the know that if they needed power during a long freeze, they won't have to worry.
Try installing an Easy Start Flex unit from Micro-Air on your AC condenser. A portable generator can't handle the in rush amperage when the compressor engages.
wrong wrong wrong..should of had the generator already runny before switching on loads one by one allowing generator to stabilize after each load added
Thanks for the feedback 👍
We bought a 12K (Duramax 1200) dual-fuel gen (on Gas, 10+K on propane) on Amazon when they had the Prime sale last year (~$1400 regular price)...
That is a great setup and for a great price. Thanks for sharing.
hey nice video! FYI your order of operations is not the best. You should make sure all the breakers are off until after the generator is plugged in and running, then turn the breakers that you would like to use. Most devices and appliances are sensitive to under or over voltage. As the generator ramps up and down on start up and shut down, this can create an imprper supply voltage to the equiptment you are powering. Plus starting the generator under load is not good for the generator. Unless it is a generator inverter then it really doesn't matter but none the less it is good practice to be safe.
This is how i do it.
1. Turn off Main Breaker and all branch circuits
2. Start generator let it warm up while doing the next steps (make sure it is within your cords reach)
3. Roll out your cord then plug female side in first to back feed plug, then male end to the generator side
4. Go to the electrical panel. turn on the generator back feed breaker.
5. One by one turn on critical circuits starting with the largest loads first. (if you are familiar with what the circuits draw) The size of the breakers don't reflect the actual load of each circuit.
6. Reverse this process when grid power is restored.
7. Be safe out there
Perfectly said
3.4.23 Scott, great video and thanks for making it. I have the Westinghouse dual fuel 9500df running watts and 12500 peak watts. It has the 50amp plug and a 30amp plug. I have installed a 50amp box.
This is my question: If you are running electronics inside the house what would the THD (total harmonic distortion) be and is it going to cause any damage?
I’m no pro but I think for most electronics you would want THD under 5% and Westinghouse claims 3%, so if that holds true should be good.
I believe that generator has a bonded neutral. If you're hooking it to the house, you need to unbond it. You can only have one bonded neutral, and that's at the main disconnect panel.
Yes I’m concerned that people don’t know this. It would create objectionable current in a ground fault situation
Yes, this is exactly what I was thinking as I watched the video. Right on the generator plate it states that the neutral is bonded to the frame. Using a generator in this fashion, where it is a non-separately derived system, requires the removal of the neutral/frame bond (floating neutral), and a ground rod for the generator frame. Of course, millions of people use a generator in this fashion without issue, but it is nevertheless an unsafe practice, as you create an unsafe condition during a fault. Generator manufacturers should make it more easy to bond/unbond the neutral from the frame. Note: If you have a transfer switch that interrupts the neutral as well as the phase connections to utility, then the generator SHOULD have its neutral bonded to the frame, this being a separately derived system.
@@sigcrazy7 I agree with everything you say except for the ground rod. If you're plugging it into the house, the entire system is grounded with a ground rod at the panel.
@@whirlyblades Yes, I get that. I believe it’s an OSHA requirement to drive a rod on a separately derived system. Maybe NEC as well. It’s a moot point anyway, since no homeowner does so. I’d bet that 99% of DIY portable generators powering houses have their frame bonded. People figure if it works, carry on.
@@sigcrazy7the generator is grounded through the 4 prong cord, which connects to the houses grounding rod. Using a separate grounding rod can actually be dangerous in some rare instances. Don’t ground the generator just use the 4 prong cord- safe!
I had just done this a few months before the Texas freeze in February 2021 as well as converted my generator to natural gas. My 10 KW generator powered my entire house for two days. It was business as usual other than spotty internet due to not having fiber at the time and low water pressure, nether that had anything to do with the generator. I got a hard start kit for my AC and I can run that too plus power the whole house if I have any outages in warm weather. Just have to make sure if I'm using say the microwave to turn off the coffee maker or toaster. I also have a surge protector with a 3 minute delay on my fridge and deep freezer. The AC has a 5 minute delay. I have a gas dryer, water heater, stove and furnace. I don't turn any breakers off.
I thought I needed the soft start? Why the hard start? Thanks
@@aldairsworld3314 both accomplished the same thing, hard start is cheaper. It has a potential relay and puts a capacitor in line during the start up to give it a boost. A soft start slowly ramps the compressor up.
Does that have a binded or floating neutral? I have a bonded neutral and as soon as I turn in a circuit the generator cranks up to max RPM even if it's only running 1 led bulb. I'm thinking I need to convert the generator to a floating neutral. Thoughts?
If it is a conventional generator (not an inverter generator), it must run at rated speed regardless of load in order to generate at the required 60 Hz.
I thought you could not use a generator like this to power sensitive electronics? Couldn't you mess up stuff like a HE furnace, and other electronics? I actually had one like this, but switched to an inverter because it is a lot cleaner. I watch your channel all the time and am very confused by this?
That's exactly what I discovered after purchasing the exact same generator. It has a very noisy sine wave. Some electronic equipment may be equipped with some form of power filter, I would be careful using it to power sensitive equipment.
I like the brand of Champion for generators. I bought one of their 2022 EFI 10500 starting watts (perfect sine wave). It is a beast, BUT I learned that it is not just sine wave that you have to look at, but the THD% (amount of noise). The one I got and the one in this video I think have upwards of a ~20% THD which can mess up sensitive electronics. The invertor generator I got (still Champion) is both a perfect sine wave and
Some of these non-inverter generators are capable of THD
@@donrichitt Good info, thank you for the reply!
Also be sure that every sensitive consumer electronic is on a quality, high voltage-amp UPS like a Tripp-Lite (PCs, TVs, modem/routers, etc).
Bad tittle. Westinghouse has been around for over 100 years and you call it an "Amazon" generator.
Is it really necessary to have the generator that far out? NO.
I've used the caulking idea to make the numbers more legibl (I sometimes have trouble reading the stamped numbers) At my work, we have our lighting circuits marked the handles of those breakers with a yellow paint pen to make them more legible.
Interesting option. Pros: The savings (A Big Pro) Cons: Setup before running, can't run that much, but you can get by. Biggest fear: Power outage, loud generator next to a lit up house, is that thing going to be there in the morning?
why not? i have plenty of firearms!! and im not scared to use them either!
In real trouble neighbors need to cooperate and not to get political but firearms will be critical.
I have a smaller Champion dual fuel inverter/generator that I keep connected to a battery tender in a storage box on the back deck - a much more secure location. It's way quieter than any gasoline generator and can run all night on just one bbq tank. From the street you can't even tell it's there running as it is placed under a table with a tarp draped over the table and the table is under a gazebo. It's safe from rain and passers by. It is only capable of 110 volts, but it's plenty of power for the furnace, refrigerator, freezer etc. Plus, full propane tanks can be kept for years as long as you keep them out of the rain.
You have any adverse problems from running the generator in the rain?
Some people put a little tent/shed/cover over it especially if it is going to be outside on a regular basis.
I guess you can also invest on an automatic transfer switch if you happen to do a permanent generator install, that’s the case for bigger buildings.
Love the tip on caulking the numbers on the panel. I never thought of that!
Paint marker works just as well without the caulk mess. You could even use different colors to mark out different circuits for different times of the day.
@@wildbill23cor a Sharpie marker ...
Excellent video and setup!
My only suggestion would be to consider converting the generator to run on natural gas, if you have gas on your property and if your meter location is workable. It's a straightforward conversion on this generator (basically - replace the existing regulator with a larger one). You'll have an endless fuel supply and won't have to worry about old gasoline fouling your carburetor or fuel lines.
Those whole home generators are temping but a little pricy
@@ryanvandy1615 My thoughts as well. I don't have very many power issues where I live, hardly anything over an hour without power, so one of those standby generators is way out of my budget for the use it would ever seem to get....honestly it would do its weekly or monthly test and that would probably be the highlight of its career LOL. Usually the outages we get here in southern Idaho are just enough to need to reset all the clocks in the house and wait for the satellite receiver to initialize LOL.
One of those generators would, however be much more critical to someone that relies on any sort of electrical medical equipment that needs 24/7 power, and you really wouldn't be wanting or be able to drag out a generator, and cord, and all that mess.
I'd love to have one of those standby generators, but yep, they're expensive, and it wouldn't be utilized nearly as often as it would need to be in order to gain anything from it.
This is much too complicated for the average consumer.
If anything, people have a small generator and a few extension cords , maybe a 5 gallon gas jug (if that).
Our house is on solar, I run a 6500 watt Honda to charge batteries if no sun.
What type of battery setup do you have installed? I am starting to look at solar and battery backup now.
I just want something smaller that can run a tv and PS4 with no noise. Something that can last an entire day without power. Maybe enough to plug in a small fridge too.
I like to one N done buy things. Maybe i can even take it camping. Something i can recharge when power is available too.
A lot more expensive but this is what I have now for that type of setup amzn.to/3oHanOk
You're a youtuber with a PC and do video editing I am guessing. Does that PC run ok on this generator? Thanks
Hello Scott, My Name Is Fidel And I Have A Few Questions That I Need Your Opinion On, I'm In The Process Of Purchasing A Portable Generator And I Want To Make The Right Choice #1. Is Westinghouse A Good Brand Generator Compared To The Champion Brand? #2. What's Your Opinion On A Dual Fuel Generator? #3. Just Curious As To Why You Didn't Run The 50 Amp Outlet From Your Westinghouse Generator Into Your Home Having A 200 Amp Service Panel? Thanks For Your Opinions Scott Love Your Videos...👍🏼
I did this to my moms house over 20 years ago but I installed a transfer switch.
I have the 9500/12000 and run my entire house, HVAC 3 ton, 2 Mini Splits, 2 refrigerators, 1 Freezer, along with Lights and Tvs, Its only the 2 of us so we do use only lights in the room we are in, FYI I did put a Soft Start in the AC
Nice setup, I have the same thing ;-) I was wondering, is there some kind of device that can installed on the grid mains to detect when the grid comes back online so I know when to unhook the generator. I know I could use a transfer switch, but was wondering if there was something simpler that would light up a small light or trigger a relay or something? Thanks!
Great question…
Is there an answer?
Great point
Search for "Reliance Controls PowerBACK Meter" There are other brands and devices but this is a good example
80% Breaker Rating Rule?
If you have a branch circuit supplying nothing but ?continuous loads,? then the minimum conductor size must have an ampacity of 125% of the load ? 210.19(A)(1) ? and the overcurrent protection must be 125% of the load ? 210.20(A). Therefore, the breaker must be loaded to no more than 80% of its rating. so a 30 amp breaker is good for 24 amps 30 x 80 % = 24 amps same for 20 amp 50 amp 100 amp
Really important people realize that most portable generators have bonded neutrals. So by hooking into your main service panel, where the neutral and ground are also bonded, you’ve now created two paths back to the source (objectionable current) and that’s a code violation. You’d either have to unbond the generator when you hook into your home, or add a transfer switch that isn’t bonded. If you take the jumper out that bonds your generator, just realize that if you go to use it portable it now has no path back to the source in a ground fault situation. That’s why portable generators are usually bonded, they are assumed to be used in the field apart from a main panel.
Edit: I went with the same setup as you with a portable and an interlock kit. I just pulled the jumper and made sure to keep it with the generator in case I need to use it on the go.
I'm glad someone else said this besides me. Mine has a floating neutral so, if I ever run it as a standalone, I'm gonna need a jumper, which I don't have. But I don't really see where I'd need it that way, but you never know.
@@whirlyblades same here. I’ve never really had need for a generator on the go but doing it this way saves a lot of money over a permanent install. I just hope people do the research on properly doing this
I fashioned a bonding jumper using a 240 volt 30 amp plug with the neutral and ground prongs jumpered, which I keep tethered to the Gen. The retores the generator's neutral-to-ground bonding. If I ever do run the generator stand alone I'll just be using its 120 volt receptacles anyway. Note: Jumpering at the 120 volt receptacle will likely trip its built-in GFCI.
@josephknapick5307 Thanks for the tip. I just made a 30 amp 240v plug myslef. Good call!!
Is my electrician in St. Louis trying to pull on me? When I asked if he could install a 50 amp generator Inlet box with interlock, he said that wasn’t up to code and I would need a separate subpanel with the critical circuits I wanted for the inlet box to power. I said that sounded like a transfer switch and I did not want that. He said no it’s not a transfer switch and said it had to be done that way because of code. He tried to give me a reason I couldn’t hook my inlet box to my main directly because my main was a 200A board and since I was only hooking up a 50a inlet…..can you help?
With that size generator why wouldn’t you flip on all the breakers and be judicious on what you use? That’s the purpose of having an interlock.
Agree. If you CAN power the whole house then do it.
I have a doubt, my generator is a predator 7250 mx 9000 watts generator, with 30 amps max. My electric stove is a 50 amp...could I run just one burner?
Maybe I missed it, but did you talk about the bonding? Should it be changed to floating bond? I have the very same generator and have added my interlock and plug, but the interlock keeps the neutral and ground bonded at the box. The generator is bonded as well. Code says you must have only one bonding.
I purchased the exact same generator as my backup power source. I purchased the optional automatic ST Switch but don't use it as I'm utilizing the 50 amp outlet and the inlet box with the interlock kit. You can also purchase the automatic ST switch to power appliances from the 30amp outlet. When plugged into the grid, when the power goes out, the Switch sends a signal to the generator to start it. When the grid power is restored, the automatic switch powers down the generator. This is a very nice generator with plenty of power to power my whole house. Thankfully the only major appliances that draw a lot of power are the refrigerator, furnace, microwave and AC unit. Thanks for the tutorial video.
Thanks for the feedback now just need a major power outage 😂
@@EverydayHomeRepairs lol same here. But at least we're both prepared, along with others who've commented.
As a professional electrical contractor, I install a LOT of these set-ups. I will NEVER install the inlet inside of the garage (unless there is absolutely no other option. I've only done that once). CO2 kills more people every year than you would believe. While the current homeowner might be smart enough to properly run the generator, he might sell the house to an idiot, who buys the cheapest short cord, runs a generator inside the garage, and kills his family. Installing the inlet outside of the garage at least decreases that possibility (I hope).