Ford E450 RV how to change spark plugs, coils and air filter for maintenance
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- Опубліковано 30 гру 2017
- I made a video i couldn't find online of me changing out spark plugs on my 2004 ITASCA #RV that is a #Ford #E450 6.8L. This is very similar to other engines like E350
Let me know if you have any questions, Thanks for watching.
I'm an experienced mechanic, having performed almost all of the maintenance and repair on my family's vehicles for almost 50 years (God, am I really that old!?) but have never worked on the V10 in an E450 before. While I would have eventually figured out which nuts, clamps and brackets needed to be removed to facilitate access to the coils and plugs, this video is a *huge* timer saver for someone without prior experience with this particular engine/chassis combination. Kudos to Always_How_To's for a superbly helpful video!
Greatly appreciated. I have a 2002 same engine and getting to take on this adventure.
No check engine light.
But engine has a miss or stutter going up hills or when od kicks in.
What a guy! When I saw this mess I almost said forget it, but your video was step by step...terrific. My ignition coils did not come off easily, only two came out "normally", the others split up and as you know, not easy to remove after the top is gone. I improvised a noose with a zip tie and was able to pull out the bottom part of ignition boot after lubricating thoroughly. Thanks for explaining so clearly and enabling the rest of us.
I’m going to tackle the spark plugs in my own 2006 E-450 v10 soon, and this video has been so helpful! Other videos and forum posts were just destroying my confidence, so I’m happy I came across someone who could explain things so calmly and in an organized way. I LOVE YOU!
Well Greg I am glad my video helped you out in tackling your own RV maintenance, and that my message was delivered well. Thanks for your comment!
Good job man! I've worked as a mechanic over the years and have done a few of these the only thing I would suggest is to use compressed air and blow out the plug holes before removing the spark plugs just incase there's dirt in them this way it won't end up in the cylinder 👍
great tip.
Yep that's the first thing that came to mind too. Clean out that dust and dirt before you start and as you remove things. I would love to know if there is a cabin airfilter somewhere on these.
Very informative. Very patient in your explanation of your steps to remove as well as re-install spark plugs and coils!
Thank You Man. I just both a 2007 E450 and i totally need to change sparks and coils. you just save me $300 to $400
Replaced the coils on our 2007 Itasca. This video made the job manageable. Shop quoted me $1600 plus parts. Bought OEM Motorcraft coils for around $400 and saved a ton. Coach is running like a champ. Thanks!
I’m glad to hear the video helped you out!
Thanks Always. Watching your video gave me the confidence I needed to tackle the job as well as nice visuals. Most of the youtube videos I see are woefully incomplete with more talking than good shots of the actual engine and parts. You did a great job, which I know takes a lot of time and effort. I tried to wash everything well before I started but the right side of the engine has so many lines and cables, it's hard to get it clean. My rig is 18 years old and looking at the plugs, I could tell 3 of the 10 had already been replaced. I was getting a #9 misfire code, which prompted the tune up. Don't have a lot of miles (under 50K) but of course 18 years is 18 years. I did use anti-seize grease on the plugs and yeah, dialetric grease on the plug end of the coil pack. Two of my old coil pack boots separated from the spring wire and I had to use plumbing pliers to grip the boot to suck it out of the plug hole. Didn't realise just how deep the plug holes were. Once I removed the plastic covers that hold the wires above the plug and injector wires, I used a rope to wrap around the wires to pull them out of the way (and tied it off) to give me decent access to the plugs. I would say it's not a very accessible engine and I rubbed a bit of skin off my arms and hand backs reaching in. It's not a simple job and I got frustrated a couple times. It would be good not to be on a tight timetable. I quit and came back more than once over three days of a few hours each day. The middle plug on the left side is blind and I had to use a mirror to tighten down the screw that holds the coil pack in place. Now that I've done the job once, I would be able to cut my time in half. Experience is the greatest teacher but your video gave me enough info to have faith I could do it. All in all saved me quite a bit of money and the rig runs smoothly. Thanks again.
Excellent walk through!! Very helpful and concise. lots of horror stories about this process and broken plugs. This is a great reassurance that it's not scary. :-} One thing I like to use on the plug threads is a dab of anti-seize. It really helps the next time you need to remove them.
Good job and video. I appreciate the lack of foul language and an intelligent, calm narrative. I own the E-350, hoping that when this sort of work is required I can easily remove the seats for more room.
Thank you very much, I appreciate the feedback. Hopefully it helped you.
I had an '89 E350 snd found I had to drop the passenger side wheel to get to the last plug....jsut a suggestion if you're struggling
Thanks for a fine job and description of this work. I have the same E450 so when the time comes you have already taken the mystery out of the equation.
Thank you so much sir! You are wonderful to share this with people! Great video!
Thanks for the great video and especially mentioning the sizes of the screws and bolts! Thank you so much!
This video got me there. Thank you. Thank you thank you. Thank you. It sucked. About 6 hours of labor for me with hick ups.
thank you for this video, it is very descriptive & straight to the point on how to, Thanks again for showing the process & all the headaches along the way with it, Thumbs up!
Excellent video, thanks. Your easy go9jng, relaxed narrative helps us have a moment to absorb each step.
Thanks for the feedback, glad it helped you out.
I found your video for a friend who has a check engine code for a bad #2 coil on his F-350 Mini Winnie. He's been trying to figure out how to replace the front coil through the tailpipe...I mean doghouse. Very helpful, and great job with the one handed video and repair.
Excellent video! thank you for taking the time.
Thank you! Couldn’t find I tune up video with the box style. Don’t need it yet but good to know I can do it now that I’ve seen how you did it .
Thank you for the video. I have been dreading doing this service myself and now feel more comfortable doing it.
THANKS for the excellent video. It'll make changing mine out easier and a great reference if I have to split the work up over a couple of days.
Thanks so much. I was planning on doing this to my 2005 E-450 RV but chickened out. I learned a bunch of stuff and am now inspired. Thank you!
So my RV recently started idling poorly and the OBD is showing mis-fires on cylinder #3, which is the middle of the passenger side. Our RV only has 17K miles and sits most of the time, so no where near 100K but the sitting around all winter is likely doing bad things, Planning to tear down and remove just #3 and have a look. In watching other videos I'm also going to blow some compressed air down the hole before removing the plug. I've also heard oil can leak down from the valve cover and foul the coil. Really curious to get in there now and figure out what's up. Will let you all know!
Thanks for making this video!
Thanks so much. I just got a class C with the same engine. I've done plugs in one or two cars before but still a novice. I'm going to dig in tomorrow and check my plugs!
Sounds like you just saved me around $1000. Thanks!
I got one of these things and it's needing plugs. I am so glad Ford engineers make sure consumables that require regular maintenance are placed so that you need to take the whole vehicle apart to get to them. If you went into a Ford V10 engine plant, you would have seen the assembly line beginning with a bunch of spark plugs hanging from a conveyor line. They then proceed to hang the rest of the engine on the plugs. I am surprised they didn't put the oil filter inside the engine block. Not just picking on Ford. I had a '77 Buick Regal (gawd, what a POS). Back plug on the right bank required jacking the engine up to get to it. That or cutting an access hole in the fender well. Had a Dodge Tradesman van that would have fuel pump failures every 2 years or so. After dropping the fuel tank the second time, I pulled up the carpet and installed a hatch in the floor for fuel pump access.
Good bit of info....These style motors are subject for debri falling on top of the Plug after removing the Boot. You need to use compressed air to clean the area out good. Blowing it out good before you put a Spark Plug Socket is crucial!!!
Good tip
Thanks!
Great video man! I have an e450 class c as well.. plan on doing plugs this weekend.
Great vid, thank you. I have a 2016 e450 mobility van I have converted to a work van. I need to do some work on it and this helps a lot. Thanks.
Awesome step by step... cheers
Thank you for this valuable information!!!👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
No problem, I’m glad to hear it helped you out!
great video thanks for taking the Tim to post it
THANK you soooooo much for posting this.
I have a 07 mobile pet grooming business that has NEVER had it done as it was too expensive in the shops.
I was desperate to get it done, so now I'm attempting myself.😊🤣🥺
I am glad to hear this video helped you out. Thanks
Hell yeah that was just awesome 👍🔧😎
From my own research, it looks like 28 is the recommended torque, with NO anti-seize. FYI for anyone who's curious.
Thank You very much. I’m inspired and educated.
Great video, Thank you.
Thank you for this video!
Thanks for the video bro helped out a lot thank you very much
Thank you very much. Pretty pricing to have a shop do it for you. I will get geared up to do ours now that you have given some confidence.
Great video, thanks for sharing!!
Thanks for watching!
Perfect, you just saved me $$$
Great video
👍👍 great job thanks for the video
Great video.
Good job. Will be tackling my 2016 Ford E-450 soon, showing a P0300 code, 66,000 miles.
Thank you, Good luck!
Nice job. The only thing I would have done different was to use a Wells or Motorcraft Ignition coil. The cheap ones will let you down in short time. I use a lot of different parts on my 2000 V-10 but have learned the hard way not to scrimp on FMC coils.
Ford coils are garbage. I lost two on a 2018 v10 with 17k miles. Know many people with different fords and same complaint. Coil sitting on plug gets mighty hot.
very helpful . thank you
This is a good video to show whats involved.
I would say the plugs in the V10 are platinum plugs Fords say 100k before they need changing. With the possible plug issues on these Triton engines. I myself would wait till close to that before i want to open up that can of worms.
I ran and maintained my last Ford van I used to tow a trailer with the 5.4 Triton motor I never had a single issue and waited till 100k then changed the plugs. It always ran fine. Now I have 04 motorhome with 40k miles pm V10 garage kept I plan on waiting till 100K unless it starts running rough. I would used motorcraft platinum plug as well as coils when I get to that day.
Great video. It almost seems straight-forward, but those v10 triton engines are a PITA. Thanks for the step by step though. Helps identfy and elminiate problems.
Very helpful.
Great Job Thanks
TWO thumbs up my friend. Thanks for sharing this.
For sure, I’m glad it helped you. Have you started your repairs yet?
@@FreshGresh024 Now that winter is behind us, I'm about to do the job in few days from now. Just waiting for the parts to come in. Thanks again.
Good job.
THANK YOU!!!
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Changing the coils is an unnecessary expense unless you are throwing a check engine light which will tell you the cylinder number. They do weaken over the years but as long in spec the check engine light won't come on. During a tune up you can buy just the boots with the spring which you saw in the last cylinder if your boots are in poor shape. Then again they can be reused if no signs of cracking or dry rotted. But if you have plenty of money have at it. :)
All bolts are metric on this engine which some correspond close with standard. 5/16 = 8mm. 5/8 = 16mm.
Last tip, trying to focus close up on your camera touch the object on your screen and your camera should autofocus.
Thanks for the video.
Thank you!!
Great video. One thing not mentioned, the heads are aluminum. Be VERY careful torquing down the new plugs. Overtighten them & you will strip the threads. Then you have to ream the hole and Helicoil the heads.
Kona Golden how tight? What’s the spec?
Great job! I think all the hardware is metric so 5/16 is actually the same as 8mm.
este compa si sabe!!
Might help to state the parts numbers that you used, good job!
Thanks
My question is i got one like that how I can drain air out of the slide piston because I closed and I let the switch go the slide star going out
I’ve got pretty much the same rig with forty thousand miles on it. I really wouldn’t expect the coils to need replacing but curious how many miles you had between changes and did your mileage go up st all? I don’t think I can get over ten if I drove it off a cliff!
Good morning. I have an important question, I have a 1999 Ford E450 (6.8 V10 Triton) motorhome in Spain and when I went to check in the workshop, we did not find the VIN number on the chassis. I only see the VIN under the front glass, but I need to know where the VIN etched on the chassis is located.
Could you tell me where the VIN is located on the chassis?
Thanks.
Great Video, I wouldn't know where to start, this video helped a lot, it showed me everything that I need to do, step by step. Thank you, I like the helpful comments from viewers as well. God Bless you. Out of curiosity, I bought a Ford CNG E450 and its been maintained on a regular basis up until when it was parked a year ago to be replaced by a newer bus, on acceleration the bus has trouble gaining speed over 45 miles an hour, can you give me some thoughts on that?
Glad it helped, it would be a little hard to diagnose anything just know the trouble gaining speed. Sorry Willie
Good job and nicely done video. A note of caution to all. After removing the coils, blow out the spark plug access cavity prior to removing the spark plugs. Use Motorcraft plugs only and put some anti-seize paste on the spark plug threads and torque to 25 ft lbs. If you use the Ford torque specs, (about 13 ft lbs), you'll have spark plugs blowing out of the cylinders. Also, use Ford coils. Shop around online for the best prices for these parts. Most of the dealers are a rip-off.
The blowout issue was resolved in an update to the cylinder heads
@@markv5227 Stupid question. Where are the cylinder heads?
@@MinisterRedPill Hi, like where on the engine? The cylinder heads are on either side of the engine. If you get to 6:52 in the video, you see the cylinder head cover, that black boxy looking thing. Plugs go into the cyclinder heads, one per cylinder. Ford had an issue with the engine pressure and maintenance stripping out the threaded plug holes. Bad thing.
I checked with the dealer. My RV has 40,000 miles on it and I've not had to change the plugs yet. I change oil, transmission filter and fluid, checked brakes, etc. Spark plugs are supposedly good for longer.
@@markv5227 mine is a 99 with 47k and need to replace plugs 4&9 but I'm gonna replace them all and the coils
@@MinisterRedPill If you're going to do one, might as well do all the plugs. You should talk to the Ford dealer about the coils. Unless yours is misfiring or something, you have to decide if it's worth it. I can tell you that some are difficult to get to and that may be the incentive to do the whole thing and probably not have to do it again until 100K
Any idea what is that device inside of the air filter box, one that you showed at 5:05 disconnected plug? It's not a MAF i believe.
Great video, I have a 2003 I’m thinking about doing the plugs soon, I just wish I could find an exact torque for the plugs, it seems to be all over the place, I have heard everything from as low as 11 foot pounds to 28.. access doesn’t look as terrible as some say though with doing the removal of what you showed in the video. Thanks for posting
Thank you very much for posting this.
I’ve been quoted a lot of money for this job, as well.
I have a 98 Ford 6.8 v1 Triton.
57k miles.
May I ask how many you have and how many miles you went before having to change them
Again? you mentioned not having changed them
In four years. I presume you put a lot of miles on your rig.
Anyway, thank you. Nice work.
I predict early myself always blow out all the dirt from the plug holes before removing the plugs Keith foreign particles some falling into the cylinders plus I use anti-seize on all the plugs because I've known for getting hot and season in the motor so the next time I change them it'll be easier
Where did you buy the ignition coils, and part number?!!!
My 1997 ford minnie winnie motorhome will crank but not start. Has new fuel filter. The pump works good. Not sure what else could be wrong. It doesn't seem to have spark to start but it cranks
Thanks for the very informative video. About how long did it take to do?
Glad it helped, only about three hours. A lot cheaper then taking it to the shop.
Best video I have seen on this topic. Very impressive job! I have '02 engine. There is a lot of chatter about problems with the plugs in these engines being blown out. Not enough threads, aluminum heads, inserts required, etc... Ford even has a rebuild kit for the plugs retapping plug threads. Any comments on the plug issue?
Aethelwulf Freawine Thanks I appreciate it. I haven’t had that happen to me or heard about it, I guess I have just gotten lucky.
Great video. Nice job explaining. One question, though: where you buying parts to keep cost around $100? The 10 ignition coils are going to run me at least $200.
Troy McConaughey Aamazon has the 10 pack of coils for 45 bucks
I usually buy name-brand coils (Hitachi, Denso, NGK, etc.) from Rockauto and those brands are usually cheaper than factory parts and are good quality. The Motorcraft coils are $29 at Rockauto. I would not buy the Amazon or Ebay coils unless you are in a gambling mood. I once bought an Ebay ignition control module and it was DOA.
Nice video. I have a 2005 Winnebago with the same engine. I am curious what the torque settings are for the plugs, seems to all over the board. What setting did you use? Thanks.
burns rafferty I too found multiple torque settings online but I cant remember which one I actually used. I know that doesn’t help. Thanks for watching
Was told 18lbs torque on the plugs with a swath of antisense on the thread. Resist overtightening as these engines are famous for stripped out and blown out plugs.
Is 20 lbs torque on spark plugs good
Whats the location of the EGR valve?
Tengo una falla con esa camioneta me parpadea el foco del overdrive y el código que me marca es p0742 pero no logro detectar que es
I will be blowing out the spark plug cavities prior to removing plugs to avoid debris falling into the plug holes.
Hi where is the egr valve located
Do you have other videos of this Winnebago camping or using the rv I'm wanting to get one just like this one trying to do some homework (Research)
No videos camping or using them just fixing them. Sorry.
so, how long did it take you to do this job yourself? I am thinking about tackling it, but depends on how much of pain and time it really is going to take me.
Hey, so this project took me about three hours start to finish. it wasn't too bad to complete just the tight spaces changing 3-4 of the plugs.
I just bought a 2002 class c rv. Ford 450 v10 also. It only has 28000 miles. Do you think I should do a tune up on it? Or what should I look for to know if I need to
You should get anything like this double checked once it comes into your possession lol
If no records, check error codes then change all the fluids and check the rear diff fluid level, wait on other engine expenses till you see an engine light or code. DIY-Add sumo springs (bump stops) , use the blue color on the front. In the rear see if it has air bags or super duty leaf springs, if not add sumo springs there also. It will stop the heavy body roll. Check tire date codes if over 7yrs and change them to all steel sidewall tires. This is especially needed if you max out the rear axle 9.6k lbs, which is easy to do with full tanks and gear. Traveling at 70 will blow an older tire and take out your rear basement cabinets. RV shop coach repairs are a bad experience everywhere. Get steel valve stems(camping world) installed at any tire shop but you provide the stems. These extended stems have curves that let the stems pop out of the wheel holes for you to mount a TPMS on them. Manage tires like your life depends on it (cause it does). PSI rises much higher on RVs, more then even the tire or chassis support staff understands. This is the smart money updates to do for the chassis. On the Coach reseal any questionable exterior caulk immediately and read up on maintenance of your appliances. Happy trails!
I have a 1998 Itasca Spirit, same engine. Like others, I was curious why you changed the coils? My Chev pickup went 219,000 miles and it had original coil paks when I traded it in.
Before I bought the Coachmen Catalina from the current owner, they had the dealer research the code on the one of the cylinders and they recommended replacing the coil pack when they replaced the plug, which they did before i took it home. The horror of this job is the labor to get to the individual plugs which are deep down in the block. So replacing the coil pack when you replace the plug makes a lot of sense. If you don't have any misfires, no need. If you do then replacing the coil pack when you do the plug makes a lot of sense. Tearing everything down to get to the plugs for this job means being safe (not wanting to the do this job very much). I also replace all my plug wires when I do regular plugs in my Jeep, which is analogous to the boots on the coil packs in this rig. To do the boot without the coil isn't smart. To do the plug without doing the boot and coil, is chancy. To do both is an investment, especially for people who do their own labor and want to avoid doing it again. The dealer likely wouldn't do everything because it's so bloody expensive at the dealer (they would only do the cylinder that's failing) but investing your own time as labor means investing in parts to save your labor down the line and doing them all with coil packs to be more secure. I can see both sides but if I'm going to spend my time doing this job, believe me I'm doing the coil packs as well as the plugs so I won't be worrying about it again for years.
@@MlKEJ the thing about a specific cylinder misfire it can be a coil, fuel injector or a vacuum leak to that cylinder. The first thing I do is swap the suspected coil with another coil and see if the code moves too. If it does you know the coil is bad. If the code doesn't move than the fuel injector is most likely bad. Then I'll take a stethoscope and listen to the injector. But if a shop looked at the trim on advanced diagnostics they most likely have it narrowed down. One of the main reasons home mechanics are doing this is trying to save money. Coils are expensive.
@@ronmitchell8929 I hear you. Ford coils are very expensive. After market coils not so, in fact they are affordable enough to do the whole job for under $50 and have Amazon have them at your door in two days. After I swapped everything out, I looped all the wiring up to make getting to the plugs and coils a lot easier and I have spare coils. The middle cylinders are tough to get to, so you hope any new failures will be on either end, or close enough thereto. I am now also independent of needing to have the thing taken to a dealer for this code, wherever I am. Not recommending this to everybody, for sure. My pain, my choice. Not doing it the "right" way means I get to define what's right for me, not everybody. When I screw up, it's my pain.
I wish you made some on the fuel filters. I have the same vehicle & am trying to locate the fuel filters to change them. I can only find videos on DIESEL! Can you tell me where they are?
Hey Lisa, I haven't tackled that job I need to and might make a video of this. Thanks
Why did you only greased the end of the plug boots I meant that's not the part that sticks the inner part of the boat sticks to the plug and they seized up I like to smear the grease with a Q-Tip up inside and keeps them from the season up
Do you have a video where you replace the alternator
No, I haven't had to replace an alternator on a RV yet. Those aren't too hard to replace, just time consuming.
I need mirror link like this gz
I wouldn't replace all 10. These coil on plugs can last the life of the vehicle. If one goes bad there are a lot of videos that will narrow it down to the bad one.
If he has over 100k miles on the engine, I don't blame him for replacing the coils. I think these coil on plugs are more susceptible to failure due to the heat transfer from the engine and spark plugs. I had three of these coils (on plug) fail in my 350z and I only had 60k miles on that car. After the third coil failed, I just replaced all of the old remaining coils. BTW, the coil pack in my Ford Windstar failed at 70k miles. That was just one of many parts to fail on that minivan and none of the failures were due to lack of maintenance. The failures were due to low quality parts used by Ford.
Great video but I suggest using a top-quality coil because the aftermarket cheap China junk can break down and be bad right out of the box won't last long I've installed them on least Ford Triton motors they usually not good for more than one year
Better yet, I wouldn't change the coils unless they are bad to begin with.
5:57, now it is a good time to spray some throttle cleaner. Don’t forget every oil change to add some sea foam to the fuel tank. Quantity to use? Follow the directions on the bottle, duh!
Is that an 04 chassis? You're kinda lucky to not have to worry about the late 05+ plugs breaking off in the head. Im jealous.
I have a '97 E-350 with 435,000. I have had number 4,9, and I forget the other pop out of the head. Daily driver, and needs a tune up. I have had it since '99.
Hey, you have social media at all? I’ve got a 76 Itasca and wanted your opinion on an issue I’m having.
Hey, no social media. I just make videos for fun because I have learned a ton from others videos. If you have a questions about another RV let me know I might be able to help.
Thanks
@@FreshGresh024 Got my headlight switch fixed now turn signals not working.
Really should be putting a dab of anti-seize on those new plugs when they go in ..
Copper anti seize for heat!
Unless I was having a miss or throwing a code I would have never replace the coils I wouldn't let the factory ORD motor company stuff on it because it's better equipment plugs need to be change coils don't unless they miss
Nicely done vid, but for the non-mechanic types please quit stating fastener sizes in fractional. They're ALL metric. Yes some metric will crossover, yes you might be missing the correct wrench/socket - but the chassis was made in 2004, not 1974 - the only place you may find SAE fasteners is in the ITASCA part of the build.
Nice work but he could have cleaned up the air duct before reinstalling it. He also forgot to mention how important it is to blow out the spark plug shaft with air pressure before removing the spark plugs, they are usually full with dirt and crap.