You know what’s impressive about your videos, Joe? (I mean, besides the awesome instructional info!) You do this UNSCRIPTED and without a hundred edits! You speak concisely like you’ve been teaching classes on this for years. I think that really shows your expertise on the subject matter. Thanks, bud! Keep up the great work.
Wow, thanks so much! We are really making an effort to provide some good content for you guys, and are glad you are enjoying the videos. The words of encouragement means alot to us and are truly appreciate!
Love your Peanut Butter mix all the way from Down Under again - once again your insight and knowledge is priceless. The stage prep work materials are what was my demeaner in the past (I never thought about the next stage and was racing against cure time). Once again thanks and keep up the great videos.
Glad you are enjoying the vids! Yes, proper preparation makes all the difference with this kind of work for sure. Thanks for watching from Australia 🇦🇺
I can hear you loud and clear the mask works really great when you are doing a video 👍 i hope it's working good for you an you can breathe well with the mask on i know no some make are hard to breathe when it's on
Boatworks Today's channel helped me a lot with my project but your videos would've been much more beneficial as they address the specific things I was doing, minus the actual transom core replacement.
I think it's always good practice to include the "slang" term for the products you're working with. On forums and across the industry/hobby you're going to have people using the slang terms for most of the work they're doing. Another good one that I haven't heard you use when you're working with the NAPA strand filler is "KITTY HAIR". Amazing ascension CPT JOE. 25k. Remarkable to say the least. Keep up the hard work it's going to pay off.
My wife and I purchased a boat last fall, and to my dismay, the transom is rotted out. I don't have the cash to take it in and have it replaced, so I'm trying to figure it out myself. I got all of the rot taken care of, and in the process of getting the new one made to be installed. I apologize if this has already been spoken about......but after applying the epoxy to the sandwiched plywood, do you use fiberglass on the side of the transom that contacts the fiberglass skin on the boat, or do you only fiberglass the inside, nearest the motor (I/O)? I just wanna be sure that all my work isn't in vain. Thanks,
We usually glass the inside of the transom core with several layers of 1708 on all surfaces. Transoms are a high load and high stress area that need lots of fiberglass reinforcement, so be sure to use plenty. We have some videos of us glassing in the transom on our 29 in our boatbuilding series here on the channel that might be interesting to you.hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Capt Joe, As a old Mako 232 owner your tutorials are so valuable to me. Thank you so much, world class instruction! Im rebuilding the rear floor access hatch, old wood removed, should I poly peanut butter the new wood then layer 1708/mat over that? I need to reinforce between access plates where us 200+ lb dubbas keep stepping. TIA - Mike in Maine.
Glad the videos are helpful! You could bed the new wood in a putty, or you could put down a couple layers of csm that has been wet out, and bed the wood into that. I would probably put a couple layers of 1708 on it, but more if you think it might need it. Nothing wrong with going heavy duty on something like that. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Hatch rebuild came out great! I stripped the hatch down to a shell, taped outside edges, whetted inside and laid in pre-cut matt strips/pieces, rolled out air, placed primed plywood "puzzle pieces" on matt, filled in spaces and gaps between wood with peanut butter, laid 1708 on top, top layer finished with wax additive, rolled air, clamped edges and weighted center. Rock solid! Just need to drill out screw channels thru wood, fill, and drill again. Thanks for your channel Joe, could not have done it with out it. - Mike
Capt. Joe, very nice video. It would be nice if you made a video on making the clamp. I have a concept, but not sure I understand all of the details. Also, Bills on THT with Lightning Yachts has mentioned that when working with wood adding cotton fibers to the "peanut butter" mix aids in the bonding strength. I originally thought the microfiber 403 blend was even smaller glass fibers, but now not sure. Are the fibers in the 403 blend cotton? It stands to reason looking at the description on the West Systems website, but they don't spell out what kind of fibers they are.
We will be uploading a video detailing the clamps very soon for you guys. I am not sure what kind of fibers are in the filler. I will try to find out. Thanks for watching!
Hi there, I am fiberglassing a concrete pool shell and made an error on one of the walls. We sanded off the problem area and are trying to repair the issue are but the shell of the fiberglass wall is holding air. Is this the technique you would use in that situation?
Hi joe, Bill from Colorado area. Firstr off, thank you for all the videos. GREAT content. I have so many questions becasue this is my first go with working with epoxy andmy boat. The three big ones I have now is: 1. My new transom. I believe you said we should coat the back of the wood with resin before installing. Did you mean to apply and let dry and then do the peanutbutter and clamp into place or coat both places one after the other and then clamp together? 2. Drilling the 45 degree weep holes. Does that damage the intergrety of the transom? I get the reason but am struggling with drilling holes in it after all the work I put into making it. 3. My ski locker, what would you recomment for coating the ski locker after installing the new stringers. There was carpet in there previously but that just seems like a bad idea for trapping water and moisture. Appreciate your work.
I have a 1992 champion bass boat that has some screws left in the transom from old transducers I think. The holes are below the water line. I was wondering if you would suggest the best product to fill the holes. I don't believe the repairs will be very easily seen. Thanks for making the videos! They are interesting, informative, and hopefully useful in the near future.
Epoxy or vinyl Ester based product would be best for below the waterline. Just be sure there is no water or moisture in the screw holes before filling. I hope to do a video on this topic soon for you guys. Thanks for watching!
Hey, you guys are lifesavers in saving the family boat. A question, can you please write the optimal mix in ML (milliliter) per compound? I do not have expoi with the pump, but I could get a good of 403 and 406 (I skip the coloring) thanks!
I've been watching now for about 6 months, gotta say, I've learned a lot. Getting ready to restore a 72 Mako 20 I acquired for cheap. This boat was registered in 72 and never again. Cannot say how long it was used but I believe only 2-3 years. It sat in an open lot for the rest of its life. It needs a deck for sure and the transom is bowed just a little so I will replace it too. Other than that its really in good shape minus the cracks in the gel coat from the sun. My problem is the Plywood to replace with. I live in Las Vegas and it is not easy getting good wood here. Any suggestions on a good plywood for this boat? I like coosa but it is way to pricey for me. (The boat will eventually make a trip to Baja California and some fishing a long the southern California coast. I will be putting a Suzuki 140 on it when finished.) Thanks in advance
Sounds like a good project boat for sure! I would just do some searches online for some marine plywood suppliers. You should be able to find something. Coosa is pricey, but it is consistently good stuff. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Kevin, An epoxy filler can be used true, our question is dependant on certain truer criteria; this is the decision making flow truest 1) Is the hole structural, non structural, and or subjected to other extremes I.E. heat, chem, abrasion etc. 2) Dimensions What is the shape, depth, size of the hole. 3) Cosmetics. 4) Time and cost Color matching, bleed through, texture.. Keep going back and reviewing Marks videos he keeps teaching specifically what you need to know. Finally, No this filler matrix in many cases wouldn't be reasonable And yes you can put it in a hole.
Yes you could, but not a very large one. Probably something up to a 1/2 inch or so. The area you are filling would need to be well prepped first. Be sure it is clean, dry and sanded or drilled out first.I have another video here on the channel that discusses different fillers and there application as well, you might find it interesting. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Can you believe it 2 in 1 day? Awesome So last video blush was cleaned up, no sanding over the top of the cleanup before this bond? Lastly for now, can more layups of epoxy be applied without letting the epoxy fully cure then blush cleanup. is there a time frame? Joe I could go on perhaps you have plans on covering that topic. Thanks BTW That 29!
Glad you are enjoying the vids! You can always sand more if you wanted to, but the scotch Brite scuffing should be just fine. And yes, you can add layers while there is still a tack on the surface. I will be making a video on laying up some glass with epoxy on the new demonstration piece very soon. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I am about to put my cosa transom in, should we use epoxy to glue it in or polyester? Also what would have the strongest bond? The cosa is covered with 1708 and polyester resin
Both materials could be used, and they both have pros and cons. We usually bed Coosa board in several layers of csm wet out with polyester resin when we are building new boats. Epoxy peanut butter can be good when installing a new core in a older boat. You just have to decide which one you are more comfortable working with. I hope this helps and best of luck with your project.
Can hear you just fine with the new mask. Be safe, wear the mask so you can make more videos! Haha. Do you have to gelcoat over the peanut butter or is that only for cosmetics? (I was thinking of using some for screw hole repairs on an unfinished surface)
Glad you guys could hear me well with the new mask! Yes, you could use peanut butter epoxy blend for filling screw holes, and since it's epoxy we wouldn't usually use gelcoat since it is a polyester. But a marine grade paint would be just fine. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I'm thinking most professionals in most cases would replace the damaged area:1️⃣ Is the wood cosmetic or structural in nature? However, to do so in both scenarios the repair becomes experimental not professional: My experience from a dozen UA-camrs videos is that many try to become experienced and fail. Sampson boat and Sailing Magic Carpet are prime examples. I share the same question to: Mainly because I believe that some damaged wood could be made super dooper but the process needs to address biological, fungal, bacterial, pesticides, arsenic, and a wide range of testing.
We would usually replace rotten wood, but there are some products out there that are supposed to be able to bring rotten wood back. I think these products are made more for cosmetic and not structural applications. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
Us diy boat builders really appreciate these videos !
Glad to help, and thanks for watching!
You know what’s impressive about your videos, Joe? (I mean, besides the awesome instructional info!) You do this UNSCRIPTED and without a hundred edits! You speak concisely like you’ve been teaching classes on this for years. I think that really shows your expertise on the subject matter.
Thanks, bud! Keep up the great work.
And of course, the camera work is great! Thanks Logan!
Wow, thanks so much! We are really making an effort to provide some good content for you guys, and are glad you are enjoying the videos. The words of encouragement means alot to us and are truly appreciate!
Sounds good with the new mask!
Thanks for the feedback!
The vents are an awesome idea your family would have made some high quality boats over the years👍🇦🇺
Glad you thought so, it works really well. Thanks for watching!
Love your Peanut Butter mix all the way from Down Under again - once again your insight and knowledge is priceless. The stage prep work materials are what was my demeaner in the past (I never thought about the next stage and was racing against cure time). Once again thanks and keep up the great videos.
Glad you are enjoying the vids! Yes, proper preparation makes all the difference with this kind of work for sure. Thanks for watching from Australia 🇦🇺
Capt Joe and fish bump family Thanks again for sharing knowledge of these products Capt Joe nice job with the mixology !
Our pleasure! Thanks so much for watching!
Loud and clear! Be safe!
Awesome, thanks!
My gosh, the angled hole thing would have been a huge improvement to my transom on the 12’ skiff build… thanks for the great content!
Glad to help, thanks for watching!
I am really excited to watching the next video on this mini project
Coming soon! Thanks for watching
ontario canada. I enjoy being present in your shop. Its how i feel when i watch. engadged!
Awesome! Thank you!
Joe don’t let it bother you about repeating you do it for new viewers and it’s a great thing to get it in some of are thick skulls lol
Thanks for thoughts on that! I am glad you guys are enjoying the videos
Your Sound is clear.
By the way:. You are great. Thank you for spending your time on is.😊😊
On us
Thank you! I appreciate you guys watching!
Looking forward to the next step!
Great, it's on the way very soon!
best boat channel on UA-cam!
Wow, thanks so much!!
Great video Joe! Interesting tips learned on creating and working with this material. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! I really appreciate you watching and commenting!
I can hear you loud and clear the mask works really great when you are doing a video 👍 i hope it's working good for you an you can breathe well with the mask on i know no some make are hard to breathe when it's on
Great, thanks so much!
Great content as usual. Very helpful on my upcoming to do list for finishing my boat build. Much love from Maryland❤❤❤.
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching!
Boatworks Today's channel helped me a lot with my project but your videos would've been much more beneficial as they address the specific things I was doing, minus the actual transom core replacement.
Glad the videos are helpful! Best of luck with your project!
Great information
Glad it was helpful! I appreciate you watching!
👍 Another good one 🍻thanks Joe
Glad you enjoyed it
I think it's always good practice to include the "slang" term for the products you're working with. On forums and across the industry/hobby you're going to have people using the slang terms for most of the work they're doing. Another good one that I haven't heard you use when you're working with the NAPA strand filler is "KITTY HAIR". Amazing ascension CPT JOE. 25k. Remarkable to say the least. Keep up the hard work it's going to pay off.
Thanks for the suggestion, I will try to include more of that for you guys! As Always, I truly appreciate you watching and commenting!
Excellent work! From trinidad
Thanks for watching all the way from Trinidad!
This channel is great!
Thank you very much, glad you are enjoying it!
My wife and I purchased a boat last fall, and to my dismay, the transom is rotted out. I don't have the cash to take it in and have it replaced, so I'm trying to figure it out myself. I got all of the rot taken care of, and in the process of getting the new one made to be installed. I apologize if this has already been spoken about......but after applying the epoxy to the sandwiched plywood, do you use fiberglass on the side of the transom that contacts the fiberglass skin on the boat, or do you only fiberglass the inside, nearest the motor (I/O)? I just wanna be sure that all my work isn't in vain.
Thanks,
We usually glass the inside of the transom core with several layers of 1708 on all surfaces. Transoms are a high load and high stress area that need lots of fiberglass reinforcement, so be sure to use plenty. We have some videos of us glassing in the transom on our 29 in our boatbuilding series here on the channel that might be interesting to you.hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Capt Joe, As a old Mako 232 owner your tutorials are so valuable to me. Thank you so much, world class instruction! Im rebuilding the rear floor access hatch, old wood removed, should I poly peanut butter the new wood then layer 1708/mat over that? I need to reinforce between access plates where us 200+ lb dubbas keep stepping. TIA - Mike in Maine.
Glad the videos are helpful! You could bed the new wood in a putty, or you could put down a couple layers of csm that has been wet out, and bed the wood into that. I would probably put a couple layers of 1708 on it, but more if you think it might need it. Nothing wrong with going heavy duty on something like that. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thank you very much, advice taken. Best of luck fishing this year, if it ever stop raining! - Mike
@@fishing_guy4431 You are very welcome, and best of luck to you also!
@@FishBumpTV Hatch rebuild came out great! I stripped the hatch down to a shell, taped outside edges, whetted inside and laid in pre-cut matt strips/pieces, rolled out air, placed primed plywood "puzzle pieces" on matt, filled in spaces and gaps between wood with peanut butter, laid 1708 on top, top layer finished with wax additive, rolled air, clamped edges and weighted center. Rock solid! Just need to drill out screw channels thru wood, fill, and drill again. Thanks for your channel Joe, could not have done it with out it. - Mike
Love your content. Keep it up!
Thanks so much, I appreciate it!
And Portugal to...😊
Thanks for watching all the way from Portugal 🇵🇹
Capt. Joe, very nice video. It would be nice if you made a video on making the clamp. I have a concept, but not sure I understand all of the details.
Also, Bills on THT with Lightning Yachts has mentioned that when working with wood adding cotton fibers to the "peanut butter" mix aids in the bonding strength. I originally thought the microfiber 403 blend was even smaller glass fibers, but now not sure. Are the fibers in the 403 blend cotton? It stands to reason looking at the description on the West Systems website, but they don't spell out what kind of fibers they are.
We will be uploading a video detailing the clamps very soon for you guys. I am not sure what kind of fibers are in the filler. I will try to find out. Thanks for watching!
Hi there,
I am fiberglassing a concrete pool shell and made an error on one of the walls. We sanded off the problem area and are trying to repair the issue are but the shell of the fiberglass wall is holding air. Is this the technique you would use in that situation?
Hi joe, Bill from Colorado area. Firstr off, thank you for all the videos. GREAT content. I have so many questions becasue this is my first go with working with epoxy andmy boat. The three big ones I have now is: 1. My new transom. I believe you said we should coat the back of the wood with resin before installing. Did you mean to apply and let dry and then do the peanutbutter and clamp into place or coat both places one after the other and then clamp together? 2. Drilling the 45 degree weep holes. Does that damage the intergrety of the transom? I get the reason but am struggling with drilling holes in it after all the work I put into making it. 3. My ski locker, what would you recomment for coating the ski locker after installing the new stringers. There was carpet in there previously but that just seems like a bad idea for trapping water and moisture. Appreciate your work.
What kind of adhesive do you recommend for gluing PVC or hypalon tubes?
Epoxy is pretty hard to beat when it comes to gluing or bonding things together. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
What's the ratio of resin to hardener?
I have a 1992 champion bass boat that has some screws left in the transom from old transducers I think. The holes are below the water line. I was wondering if you would suggest the best product to fill the holes. I don't believe the repairs will be very easily seen. Thanks for making the videos! They are interesting, informative, and hopefully useful in the near future.
Epoxy or vinyl Ester based product would be best for below the waterline. Just be sure there is no water or moisture in the screw holes before filling. I hope to do a video on this topic soon for you guys. Thanks for watching!
Great video but how do you never get dirty
Haha, lots of practice, and tyvek suits! Thanks for watching
Hey, you guys are lifesavers in saving the family boat. A question, can you please write the optimal mix in ML (milliliter) per compound? I do not have expoi with the pump, but I could get a good of 403 and 406 (I skip the coloring) thanks!
I've been watching now for about 6 months, gotta say, I've learned a lot. Getting ready to restore a 72 Mako 20 I acquired for cheap. This boat was registered in 72 and never again. Cannot say how long it was used but I believe only 2-3 years. It sat in an open lot for the rest of its life. It needs a deck for sure and the transom is bowed just a little so I will replace it too. Other than that its really in good shape minus the cracks in the gel coat from the sun. My problem is the Plywood to replace with. I live in Las Vegas and it is not easy getting good wood here. Any suggestions on a good plywood for this boat? I like coosa but it is way to pricey for me. (The boat will eventually make a trip to Baja California and some fishing a long the southern California coast. I will be putting a Suzuki 140 on it when finished.) Thanks in advance
Sounds like a good project boat for sure! I would just do some searches online for some marine plywood suppliers. You should be able to find something. Coosa is pricey, but it is consistently good stuff. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
For the sake of engagement 😊
Thanks so much!
Could you use that mixture to fill a hole??
Kevin, An epoxy filler can be used true, our question is dependant on certain truer criteria; this is the decision making flow truest 1) Is the hole structural, non structural, and or subjected to other extremes I.E. heat, chem, abrasion etc. 2) Dimensions What is the shape, depth, size of the hole. 3) Cosmetics. 4) Time and cost Color matching, bleed through, texture.. Keep going back and reviewing Marks videos he keeps teaching specifically what you need to know. Finally, No this filler matrix in many cases wouldn't be reasonable And yes you can put it in a hole.
Yes you could, but not a very large one. Probably something up to a 1/2 inch or so. The area you are filling would need to be well prepped first. Be sure it is clean, dry and sanded or drilled out first.I have another video here on the channel that discusses different fillers and there application as well, you might find it interesting. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Awesome thanks I'm really new to epoxy there is so much to absorb
Did you use epoxy for the transom on the 2900
No, the 29 is all done in iso polyester resin. Thanks for Watching!
Can you believe it 2 in 1 day? Awesome
So last video blush was cleaned up, no sanding over the top of the cleanup before this bond?
Lastly for now, can more layups of epoxy be applied without letting the epoxy fully cure then blush cleanup. is there a time frame?
Joe I could go on perhaps you have plans on covering that topic.
Thanks
BTW That 29!
Glad you are enjoying the vids! You can always sand more if you wanted to, but the scotch Brite scuffing should be just fine. And yes, you can add layers while there is still a tack on the surface. I will be making a video on laying up some glass with epoxy on the new demonstration piece very soon. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thanks
I am about to put my cosa transom in, should we use epoxy to glue it in or polyester? Also what would have the strongest bond?
The cosa is covered with 1708 and polyester resin
Both materials could be used, and they both have pros and cons. We usually bed Coosa board in several layers of csm wet out with polyester resin when we are building new boats. Epoxy peanut butter can be good when installing a new core in a older boat. You just have to decide which one you are more comfortable working with. I hope this helps and best of luck with your project.
Can hear you just fine with the new mask. Be safe, wear the mask so you can make more videos! Haha.
Do you have to gelcoat over the peanut butter or is that only for cosmetics? (I was thinking of using some for screw hole repairs on an unfinished surface)
Glad you guys could hear me well with the new mask! Yes, you could use peanut butter epoxy blend for filling screw holes, and since it's epoxy we wouldn't usually use gelcoat since it is a polyester. But a marine grade paint would be just fine. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Can rotten wood be re-hardened with epoxy?
I'm thinking most professionals in most cases would replace the damaged area:1️⃣ Is the wood cosmetic or structural in nature? However, to do so in both scenarios the repair becomes experimental not professional: My experience from a dozen UA-camrs videos is that many try to become experienced and fail. Sampson boat and Sailing Magic Carpet are prime examples. I share the same question to: Mainly because I believe that some damaged wood could be made super dooper but the process needs to address biological, fungal, bacterial, pesticides, arsenic, and a wide range of testing.
We would usually replace rotten wood, but there are some products out there that are supposed to be able to bring rotten wood back. I think these products are made more for cosmetic and not structural applications. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
💚🇬🇧🌱
Thanks!
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!