Having done this job numerous times between the Meteor and the Classic (and a Himalayan as well), I wanted to tell you what a brilliant job you did making the video with little more than a few pictures as a guide. Your descriptions of how things came apart or went together were spot-on. It isn’t a particularly difficult job but it does require patience and attention to detail - I had the same little oil seepage the first time I did it. Your video should give anyone the confidence to give it a go themselves. A tip ‘o the hat to ya!
Many thanks for your comments. I'm really not an expert at this, but it is great to hear from someone experienced who knows how to do the job properly, say that it was OK. Many thanks and Ride Safe👍
Yes, an excellent video mate. You did mention cleaning and lubricating the chain. Would you be interested in doing a follow up video detailing how you carry this out? The centre stand will certainly come into its own for this job.
Thank you, I don't understand why manufacturers produce bikes without a centre stand, to be honest it was one of the things that put me off the new BSA goldstar As for a video, I guess I could but it really is simple. I'm not sure there would be that much interest, it's all detailed in the owners book. Undu one nut and pull the wheel back using an Allen key by the same amount on each side till you have about 1" of play Retighten the nut. Spray with lube. Done Ride Safe👍
Cracking video Keith, nice to hear someone admit they are an enthusiastic amateur as opposed to all of the “experts” out there, glad you only had a minor setback with the gasket, easy done, all the best buddy 👍
Hi Keith, I really enjoyed that video, well done and saved a few quid, thank you. Re the lost nut, may I suggest that when you remove a nut and bolt you thread the nut back on the bolt. no mix ups and harder to misplace. A little bit of grease on the long seat bolts will help in future removal. Edward
Edward, Why didn't I think of that? I did say I wasn't a pro! But after all these years and numerous bikes, I should of worked that one out. I struggled to find a spark plug spanner and another commenter said, there's one in your tool roll under the side panel! Every days a learning day. Ride safe buddy 👍 Thanks for watching.
I habitually use copperslip on every thread, it's heat proof so no issues around brakes and the engine. Buy the stuff in a pot meant for tyre fitters, it's way cheaper than a tube!
Great review of the service Keith, very well explained, I had my 300 mile service done at the dealership, but did an additional oil change at home at 1100 miles. ( not specified in the service schedule, but kind to the engine I think) but will have a go at the 3000 service. stay safe🦄
Hi Pete, I'm not sure about that. I wouldn't really recommend it to a complete newbie but if you have just a bit of an idea it is something that is definitely a possibility. There may be warranty implications and if that's something that is a concern leave it to them. Ride safe mate👍
Thank you for a brilliant and inspiring video. I have the classic 350 too and she is due her first service. I have been thinking should I / shouldn’t I do it. So to start with its a 75 mile journey to the dealers must as you say be ,left overnight for it to be cold etc and just shy of £ 300. So again like you I am a competent amateur mechanic so let’s give it a go. Thanks for the inspiration keep the videos coming and ride safe.
The amount of liquid gasket attaching the silicon rocker gasket in the factory, is telling. It's difficult to know whether the silicon gasket has fit perfectly by eye alone, as you found out. I removed all the factory liquid gasket with a wooden tool, taking care that all engine cavities were blocked with rag. Depending how much liquid gasket was applied at assembly, this could prevent a clean fit of the new or re-used gasket. Because re-fitting the rocker cover involves a certain amount of tweaking that could displace the gasket, I apply tiny blobs of liquid gasket at the corners of the silicon gasket. Some people find this unnecessary. Here's the thing: even allowing for the fact I am not a professional mechanic with intimate familiarity with every aspect of the J-series engine, the above task is a fiddly, time-consuming job if done properly. Anecdotes suggest pricing for this service vary substantially. One account even said the shop only charge for an oil change, as no one would pay for the labour involved in tappet adjustment at a first service. Another said the garage go by ear as to whether adjustment is necessary. These may not be representative of the approach of British Royal Enfield service agents, but as you say, if you do it yourself you know it has been done to your own standards.
Many thanks for posting,and moving forward your hints and tips to perhaps making the job a bit easier next time. I agree it is a bit fiddly and this maybe off putting for some. Ride Safe. 👍
Great video, I like your style of admitting you're an amateur, same with me, but I've been adjusting the tappets etc on my 1960 BSA A7SS since 1967. Never attempted to do the servicing on my Japanese "plastic rockets" in the past or my 2017 Bonnville except oil changing. But other than removing the tank (unknown quantity the first time) it's one of the reasons I'm buying a RE Classic like yours. They seem to be like the bikes of yesterday and at my age (2nd childhood? 😂) thats what I want. Thanks for a down to earth video, its given me info on removing the tank without doing any damage and checking the rocker box gasket properly.
Thank you and thanks for commenting. You will love the Classic 350. It's not trying to pretend to be something it isn't, it's been developed over a very long time and I think you'll love it. Ride Safe👍
Great bit of info mate Bet it was the Exhaust valve that was out . Had the same thing one good one out. Cant say I had any hiccups . Pressed the yellow button and the fuel pipe came off easy. Agreed two bolts off the coil swing it out the way. Also unclipping the grey plug at the back of cover makes it way easier to remove/replace As with Stuart Filingham's post removed all that black goo and let the gasket be free . Found if I seat it on the head and then mount the cover as no gravity for it to drop. It's only a splash feed so making it oil tight was fine. Done it twice 300 miles amd 2000 in the last two years ( 1500 mile oil changes is just my personal thing). These J series are designed as a easy to maintain engine
Keith - great instruction delivered in the form of a story. As for the gasket - some people claim that only removing it from the head and placing it in the groove of the cover guarantees the correct connection - it is difficult to disagree with this, although then the use of a new gasket is probably necessary. Oil change - I see that you didn't drain the 200 ml from the drain plug using wrench no. 17 - maybe it's worth doing it - what do you think about it? Thank you for the wonderful material and greetings from Poland. Jack
Thanks for that Jack. I did get the 200 ml out, but I probably didn't show it 🤔 I'm not sure why, it was a while ago now. Thanks for your thoughts and Ride safe mate👍🇵🇱🇬🇧
Keith, the video you posted about luggage has the comments disabled, I think you have uploaded it as suitable for children and it’s not allowing comments 👍
@@shottostravels You will certainly be able to save money, if you do all your own servicing during the warranty period. In the event of any sort of any major issue though, the dealer is very likely to refuse the claim. That being the case, unless its not possible to get the bike to a dealer, home servicing probably isnt that great an idea?
Thanks for commenting. There is actually 3, a normal sort of sump plug and a small oval plate that is held on with two bolts that has a small plastic strainer in it. Ride safe👍
Morning Shottos, job well done, I have about the same skill power as you definitely lose a nut or two and definitely struggle undoing the connections under the tank. I chickend out and took it back to the dealer. Well done 😊
Thank You. I'm quite pleased with how it went, even with the slight "issue". The thing is, that I found really good, was that I could really take my time. Lots of good music and numerous cups of tea. I really enjoyed it. ( Lots of reallys there!) I think I might get myself a bike lift now just to make accessibility a bit easier in the future. Thanks again and Ride Safe 👍
Great video! Thanks for pointers. On question I haven’t been able to find an answer for: does the fuel tank need to be completely empty before it’s removed?
That was a lovely watch mate, you've got the knack on camera! Great to see. Honest down to earth biking - nice one, keep it up and thanks!
That's very kind, Thankyou.
Ride safe mate👍
Having done this job numerous times between the Meteor and the Classic (and a Himalayan as well), I wanted to tell you what a brilliant job you did making the video with little more than a few pictures as a guide. Your descriptions of how things came apart or went together were spot-on. It isn’t a particularly difficult job but it does require patience and attention to detail - I had the same little oil seepage the first time I did it. Your video should give anyone the confidence to give it a go themselves. A tip ‘o the hat to ya!
Many thanks for your comments. I'm really not an expert at this, but it is great to hear from someone experienced who knows how to do the job properly, say that it was OK.
Many thanks and Ride Safe👍
Yes, an excellent video mate. You did mention cleaning and lubricating the chain. Would you be interested in doing a follow up video detailing how you carry this out? The centre stand will certainly come into its own for this job.
Thank you, I don't understand why manufacturers produce bikes without a centre stand, to be honest it was one of the things that put me off the new BSA goldstar
As for a video, I guess I could but it really is simple.
I'm not sure there would be that much interest, it's all detailed in the owners book.
Undu one nut and pull the wheel back using an Allen key by the same amount on each side till you have about 1" of play
Retighten the nut.
Spray with lube.
Done
Ride Safe👍
Great video and excellent description 👍 Very enjoyable and informative. Cheers
Thanks for commenting.
Glad you found it worth watching.
Ride safe mate👍
Cracking video Keith, nice to hear someone admit they are an enthusiastic amateur as opposed to all of the “experts” out there, glad you only had a minor setback with the gasket, easy done, all the best buddy 👍
Thanks very much. Much appreciated. I need some sunshine now so I can get out and enjoy it. Ride safe Mike👍
Hi Keith, I really enjoyed that video, well done and saved a few quid, thank you. Re the lost nut, may I suggest that when you remove a nut and bolt you thread the nut back on the bolt. no mix ups and harder to misplace. A little bit of grease on the long seat bolts will help in future removal. Edward
Edward, Why didn't I think of that? I did say I wasn't a pro!
But after all these years and numerous bikes, I should of worked that one out.
I struggled to find a spark plug spanner and another commenter said, there's one in your tool roll under the side panel!
Every days a learning day.
Ride safe buddy 👍
Thanks for watching.
I habitually use copperslip on every thread, it's heat proof so no issues around brakes and the engine. Buy the stuff in a pot meant for tyre fitters, it's way cheaper than a tube!
Well done Lad , Exactly why I really like the Enfields , Total cost of ownership is unbeatable. 🙏🏻👍🏻😊
Love it, a long time since someone called me Lad. I couldn't agree more. Ride safe! 👍
Ha Haa , Guess it gives both our age group away...!! 😂@@shottostravels
Great review of the service Keith, very well explained,
I had my 300 mile service done at the dealership, but did an additional oil change at home at 1100 miles. ( not specified in the service schedule, but kind to the engine I think) but will have a go at the 3000 service. stay safe🦄
Hi Pete, I'm not sure about that. I wouldn't really recommend it to a complete newbie but if you have just a bit of an idea it is something that is definitely a possibility. There may be warranty implications and if that's something that is a concern leave it to them.
Ride safe mate👍
Thank you for a brilliant and inspiring video. I have the classic 350 too and she is due her first service. I have been thinking should I / shouldn’t I do it. So to start with its a 75 mile journey to the dealers must as you say be ,left overnight for it to be cold etc and just shy of £ 300. So again like you I am a competent amateur mechanic so let’s give it a go. Thanks for the inspiration keep the videos coming and ride safe.
Thanks for your input. It's easy.follow this, ua-cam.com/video/GVy81dMEMuw/v-deo.htmlsi=iIZ4a6IUKULpcZhZ. 👍
The amount of liquid gasket attaching the silicon rocker gasket in the factory, is telling. It's difficult to know whether the silicon gasket has fit perfectly by eye alone, as you found out. I removed all the factory liquid gasket with a wooden tool, taking care that all engine cavities were blocked with rag. Depending how much liquid gasket was applied at assembly, this could prevent a clean fit of the new or re-used gasket. Because re-fitting the rocker cover involves a certain amount of tweaking that could displace the gasket, I apply tiny blobs of liquid gasket at the corners of the silicon gasket. Some people find this unnecessary.
Here's the thing: even allowing for the fact I am not a professional mechanic with intimate familiarity with every aspect of the J-series engine, the above task is a fiddly, time-consuming job if done properly. Anecdotes suggest pricing for this service vary substantially. One account even said the shop only charge for an oil change, as no one would pay for the labour involved in tappet adjustment at a first service. Another said the garage go by ear as to whether adjustment is necessary. These may not be representative of the approach of British Royal Enfield service agents, but as you say, if you do it yourself you know it has been done to your own standards.
Many thanks for posting,and moving forward your hints and tips to perhaps making the job a bit easier next time. I agree it is a bit fiddly and this maybe off putting for some.
Ride Safe. 👍
Very nice garage chat video! Well done!
Many thanks Thunderbolt!
I appreciate your support.
Ride Safe👍
Thank you for the insight! I 'll be doing this soon as well.
A pleasure, ride safe👍
Excellent video Keith 👍 Very well explained. Well done.
Thanks for your support, it's appreciated. Ride Safe👍
Good to see another Staffordshire channel 👍
Thanks, when's this weather going to improve?
Ride safe mate👍
(subscribed👍)
Great video, I like your style of admitting you're an amateur, same with me, but I've been adjusting the tappets etc on my 1960 BSA A7SS since 1967. Never attempted to do the servicing on my Japanese "plastic rockets" in the past or my 2017 Bonnville except oil changing. But other than removing the tank (unknown quantity the first time) it's one of the reasons I'm buying a RE Classic like yours. They seem to be like the bikes of yesterday and at my age (2nd childhood? 😂) thats what I want. Thanks for a down to earth video, its given me info on removing the tank without doing any damage and checking the rocker box gasket properly.
Thank you and thanks for commenting. You will love the Classic 350. It's not trying to pretend to be something it isn't, it's been developed over a very long time and I think you'll love it.
Ride Safe👍
Great bit of info mate
Bet it was the Exhaust valve that was out .
Had the same thing one good one out.
Cant say I had any hiccups .
Pressed the yellow button and the fuel pipe came off easy.
Agreed two bolts off the coil swing it out the way.
Also unclipping the grey plug at the back of cover makes it way easier to remove/replace
As with Stuart Filingham's post removed all that black goo and let the gasket be free .
Found if I seat it on the head and then mount the cover as no gravity for it to drop.
It's only a splash feed so making it oil tight was fine.
Done it twice 300 miles amd 2000 in the last two years ( 1500 mile oil changes is just my personal thing).
These J series are designed as a easy to maintain engine
Thanks for your input, I agree. You sound much more ' qualified' than me. You're correct, it was the exhaust valve.
Ride safe👍
Great video look forward to next one.
Thankyou, Ride Safe👍
Keith - great instruction delivered in the form of a story. As for the gasket - some people claim that only removing it from the head and placing it in the groove of the cover guarantees the correct connection - it is difficult to disagree with this, although then the use of a new gasket is probably necessary. Oil change - I see that you didn't drain the 200 ml from the drain plug using wrench no. 17 - maybe it's worth doing it - what do you think about it? Thank you for the wonderful material and greetings from Poland. Jack
Thanks for that Jack.
I did get the 200 ml out, but I probably didn't show it 🤔
I'm not sure why, it was a while ago now.
Thanks for your thoughts and Ride safe mate👍🇵🇱🇬🇧
RE themselves have an instructional video on 350 servicing.
Indeed they have, I think in most markets around the world they encourage it, thanks for commenting. Ride Safe 👍
Keith, the video you posted about luggage has the comments disabled, I think you have uploaded it as suitable for children and it’s not allowing comments 👍
Many thanks for that Mike, much appreciated. Hopefully I'll get the hang of this, eventually!
Thanks Again. Ride Safe👍
Is the warranty likely to be affected by home servicing?
Hi, Thanks for commenting. Have a look at my other video on this very subject.
Ride safe👍
@@shottostravels You will certainly be able to save money, if you do all your own servicing during the warranty period.
In the event of any sort of any major issue though, the dealer is very likely to refuse the claim.
That being the case, unless its not possible to get the bike to a dealer, home servicing probably isnt that great an idea?
Thanks for sharing your opinion.
Ride safe.👍
Great video, very clear 👍.One question, did I hear you mention you removed both bolts from underneath the engine (sump plug and gallery nut/plug)?
Thanks for commenting. There is actually 3, a normal sort of sump plug and a small oval plate that is held on with two bolts that has a small plastic strainer in it.
Ride safe👍
Morning Shottos, job well done, I have about the same skill power as you definitely lose a nut or two and definitely struggle undoing the connections under the tank. I chickend out and took it back to the dealer. Well done 😊
Thank You. I'm quite pleased with how it went, even with the slight "issue". The thing is, that I found really good, was that I could really take my time. Lots of good music and numerous cups of tea. I really enjoyed it. ( Lots of reallys there!) I think I might get myself a bike lift now just to make accessibility a bit easier in the future.
Thanks again and Ride Safe 👍
Great video! Thanks for pointers. On question I haven’t been able to find an answer for: does the fuel tank need to be completely empty before it’s removed?
Thanks for commenting. No. The fuel tank doesn't have to be empty before removing.
Ride safe👍
@@shottostravels Thank you sir! Just waiting form my Gunmetal Grey Classic to be delivered. My first bike! Looking forward to more of your videos!
@@BTeamHooligan hey, how fantastic is that? Keep me posted how you get on with it. I think you'll love it.
Ride safe👍
What kind of thoughts did you have at the german cemetry ?
Sad thoughts of wasted young lives. Still going on today. Do we never learn anything?
Ride safe mate👍
Just for next time…. There is a spark plug socket in your bikes tool kit 👍
Oh yes , of course there is. I told you I wasn't a professional! Ride safe👍
Just wondering if you do the first service does it void manufactures warranty
Thanks for commenting, have a look at my other video on this very subject if you like. Ride Safe 👍