Great video! I've also used Sikaflex Self Leveling sealant for sealing these cracks/gaps. It'll do cracks/gaps up to 1 1/2" wide (use backer rod, in addition, if needed). Because it's self-leveling I don't need to tool the bead to get it smooth, plus it's paintable and UV resistant.
I love learning...anything. I found this video very informative and answered the exact questions I had. Hope to learn more from you as I go through more of your videos. Thank you for doing such a wonderful thing sharing your knowledge!
I live in Glendale ,c😂 it is hot in the 100s at moment but I am repairing my old mans house. similar brick and cement structure like in the video . I need that type of foam ! I have a Lowes or a homepot stores here ! Would they carry the foam ?whats the name of the bottle and tube?? I need it badly =( this is simple great video others make it hard to understand but patience is key :)
Very nice and thanks! If this tip can protect your house during a Michigan winter, a NorCal winter is a piece of cake in comparison and this trick will help significantly.
This worked great for me. Cheap, took no time at all and now my basement doesn't leak along the driveway side. Now to tackle the other side of the house. O.o
Skippy Mcflappy Thanks, but in the meantime I found similar item on ZORO.COM. They are $7.62/12 oz. can. I initially ordered 7, but the girl, Jen was nice enough to give me a 15% discount 9without having to wait for my coupon via e-mail) and I got 8 of them for less than the original 7. They have a 30 day money back guarantee with free shipping and a one year warranty.......just in case you need more. OH and free shipping over $50.
Any time you cannot find a product send an email to staff@mrhardware.com and in a day (sorry when we are busy, or two) we will ship anywhere in the continental USA.
this is a good instructional video and I think the polystyrene foam which expands 2 - 3 times its original volume once dry makes a better watertight seal than the regular caulking silicone . Its best to wear gloves when applying as the stuff is very sticky and hard to get off your skin. The product sold here in NZ comes with a pair of plastic gloves .
I’ve been watching videos using the backer rod. I need to repair exactly what you have-- cracks between my house and the driveway. Which way would you say is the most cost effective and will give the best results-backer rod or foam with roof tar caulk? As soon as we have another dry day, I’m ready here in Detroit to water proof my basement from the outside and then inside with drylock extreme. Great video-most informative and easy enough for a not so handy woman.
Hello Mr. Hardware, I added the foam then applied the roof tar and I have a really rough surface and finish. Is there anything I can do to smooth it out?
Very informative! What's the best approach to prepare the work area if there's a decades old sealing job already in place that has deteriorated (mainly, a crack runs along its length), rather than one that's never been sealed before?
Are usually take a flat blade lawn edger or ice scraper so I can go along the area on my feet and drive whatever is there either scrape it off or drive it down into the crack. Get it down 1 inch and a half or more and then you can foam and caulk over that.
Thank you for all the information! I’m from SCS and remember Gilbert’s Hardware. I just bought a house in Rochester, and have a bunch of things around the house I don’t like the looks of, even though I had a great inspector, and it passed with just a few minor issues that I’m taking care of. I’m scared of water damage because I got very ill from a water damaged condo. I now have a garage that floods in one place when it rains, and the huge driveway on the other side was just poured in the spring. It cost the former owner $13,000, and I don’t think he even knew it leaked. I’m going to get this and try it. But, what is the chalk you recommended for after? I’m a single, tiny woman, but I’ve always been handy, thank God!!! I wish I lived closer to your store so I could come in regularly and ask questions. I love hardware stores!
This is giving me some inspiration. I live in the upper midwest and get some brutal winters. I have been using Super Seal Pli-Stix on my asphalt driveway for a few years. Works great until Winter comes and shifts everything around and then have a bunch of open cracks again. Might give black sprayfoam a try in the deeper cracks and then the Pli-Stix over the top of that but the hot melted Pli-Stix might melt the spray foam as well. Any advice for Asphalt cracks?
The foam is a waterproof flexible long term filler, which is then coated with any caulk, urethane, latex caulk or tar. Which ever color or product fits the situation.
@@MrHardware1 they make backing rod if its a wide/deep joint just saying that foam is more difficult to take out in ten years when the sealant failed or reverted i would not advise to use a latex outdoors
@@bakedpagan4674 I'm not taking old foam out. After years of the concrete moving I may have to add more to fill any gaps caused by movement of the slabs. Backer rod is not waterproof and there are some great latex caulks although I prefer urethane also.
My cracks are very small relative to yours. I think if I used the foam, the vast majority of it would be excess. Could I just use sikaflex to fill the small crack and call it a day? Thank you so much for your video!
Thanks Mr. Hardware - quick question, will this adhere to asphalt driveways? Or just concrete? I have been searching and searching but can't seem to find good sealing products that will adhere to asphalt. Thanks!
If you can get the black Landscaper foam, it is waterproof and you don’t need two different products. As of today my store still can’t purchase any, the manufacture isn’t delivering, go figure..
If I lay a bead of the landscape foam down, but decide not to cut/trim it (not exposing the open cells), do I still need to apply tar or is that step really only necessary when the foam cells have been cut open?
They are many manufacturers, the important thing is that it is a break off knife. That allows you to flex the blade and get a smooth cut pretty level w/ the cement.
Hello! I am two weeks out to my closing date (yay!) but its already cold and rainy in Minnesota. I really want to seal up the space between foundation and driveway before the snow hits, but all I can do for now is wait two weeks and watch the weather. I'm probably overthinking this, but how important is it for the ground underneath the concrete to be dry? If it rains a little, how many days should I wait? I'm excited to try this out, if possible!
I would not worry about trapping a little bit of water in the concrete because it is going to drain down do your towels around the basement. As long as it’s not soaking wet I’d go ahead and do it myself.
it rained really hard in michigan today and last night and all the water came in from wall in basment by neighbor's driveway so I'm going to steal it just like you did today or tomorrow hope it works
If it is warm it will expand, but not adhere to the wet surface all that well. Be sure the concrete is pitched away from the house. If water accumulates next to the house it will find a way through the foam and the caulk.
Mr. Hardware, your help would be greatly appreciated.... I used your video and sealed around my foundstion as there were gaps. I did foam and the polyurethane caulk. Unfortunately, it looks really ugly, but the gaps are sealed and waterproof. Any tips/suggestions for getting caulk off cement?
Paint remover may soften the caulk so you can scrape it off. A heavy duty wire wheel may do the job also. Call the 800 number on the caulk and see what they recommend on their product.
Because it is flexible and waterproof, and I use caulk or tar, not cement to cover it. Cement and mortar aren’t flexible so when frost or moisture cause the sidewalk or driveway to move, even a little, they break up and fail usually within a year.
It won’t flex with the concrete seeing as it moves up to 1 inch in a season but the house will not. The foam is a cushion that is waterproofer and flexible. It can move but stays waterproof longer than most other solutions.
I used Dewitt’s roof tar, the foam is Touch n Foam exterior landscape foam. Neither product is that important, any minimal expanding foam, trimmed, and then covered with any decent cock is still a great job that should last over 10 years.
Sorry, the foam first to fill the crack inorder to save caulk. The black foam is used when I don't have time to go back and caulk because the black foam is uv save. The typical foam will rot in the sun thus requires a covering, hense the caulk.
@@MrHardware1 I don’t really want to put the wood back. It’s ugly. I was thinking if I can’t rio it all out to, chip away an inch or so, fill with foam and then top it like you did. OR using that self leveling stuff.
+Yellowknight888 Yellow, the aerosol foam is more waterproof than backer rod, which is barely waterproof. But the silkaflex is a great product, I would place this method a close second.
So what exactly do I need to seal outside garage foundation where water is sipping through? I have concrete on the side of garage with slope towards garage so when it rains all water goes towards foundation.
No easy cure, the concrete needs to be re-pitched to send water away from the building. Otherwise you have to build a drain system to capture the water and pump it away.
We had the same problem. We Installed a french drain the length of our garage, and that drained into a dry well. Tedious…but easy enough to do and no more water in our garage.
Yes, I use roof tar or caulk to polish the job, or I need something to protect the 'Non landscape' foam that is more common to find. I use colored caulks also.
You can use the minimal foam, then cover it with a caulk of the color that matches the surrounding area. Forget the landscaping foam if it is going to be covered and protected from the sun.
Blair, thanks for the video. About how long does this last? I live in Michigan and worry about the freeze thaw and it breaking away from the block wall. Thank You!
I use a 'cheepo' zip knife. One with 7 break-off blades. Be careful but you can flex it so you can cut the foam close to flush with the cement. I'm using Touch n Foam, the minimal expanding model.
all due respect, this is why-where-how most basements leak/seep, may get some mold, efflorescence inside ua-cam.com/video/5dpGpiB7kQI/v-deo.html She already tried sealing along driveway-house and added very long downspout ext's. Block wall, driveway side ua-cam.com/video/Tq_o7C6KMUA/v-deo.html
Hey Blair, DeWitt doesn't distribute to by town and I need something quickly at my local home Depot, is there an equivalent at homedepot.com? Please share a link. Thanks!
You can use black exterior caulking or gray cement caulk. Neither will react with the foam, I'm not an expert on the big box products because so often they don't meet our expectations.
hi Blair Basement foundation is concrete and walkway is asphalt. Will the landscape foam adhere to both surfaces? Also will the foam waterproof without roof patch on north side of house? Thanks much.
The fact you still answer the questions in your comments of your videos. I love seeing that, especially since you uploaded this a long time ago!
Great video! I've also used Sikaflex Self Leveling sealant for sealing these cracks/gaps. It'll do cracks/gaps up to 1 1/2" wide (use backer rod, in addition, if needed). Because it's self-leveling I don't need to tool the bead to get it smooth, plus it's paintable and UV resistant.
I did same 1 year ago and have to replace it; didn’t last long. I wonder if tar will work better. Need something long-lasting.
Black foam, awesome, will buy some tomorrow. Thanks for the vid.
I love learning...anything. I found this video very informative and answered the exact questions I had. Hope to learn more from you as I go through more of your videos. Thank you for doing such a wonderful thing sharing your knowledge!
Mr Hardware, well done! I am off to the store to get some landscape foam and roofing tar!!!
Keep that basement dry!
this is a brilliant tip. I'm going to use your technique in front of my garage and around the steps Thank you very much.
The roof tar drys hard enough to walk on except in extreme heat. If you live in a hot hot area use the polyurethane crack filler to cover the foam.
I live in Glendale ,c😂 it is hot in the 100s at moment but I am repairing my old mans house. similar brick and cement structure like in the video . I need that type of foam ! I have a Lowes or a homepot stores here ! Would they carry the foam ?whats the name of the bottle and tube?? I need it badly =( this is simple great video others make it hard to understand but patience is key :)
I just called ALL the stores and no one has a black foam. Can you give us an answer +Blair GIlbert?
You bet! $7.99 a can, 10% less if buying 6 or more. Hope you live in the area cuz shipping is extra. We don't have Gilbert's Prime yet.
Nice informational tip. Your instructions and nicely paced and clear.
Very nice and thanks! If this tip can protect your house during a Michigan winter, a NorCal winter is a piece of cake in comparison and this trick will help significantly.
Just what I was looking for, thanks! Great video, Gilbert's rocks!
Good Video. Listing your store's product #s of the items you used will be more helpful. Thanks again for the video.
This worked great for me. Cheap, took no time at all and now my basement doesn't leak along the driveway side. Now to tackle the other side of the house. O.o
What's the name of the BLACK FOAM.........I CAN'T FIND IT ANYWHERE!!! TY.
Skippy Mcflappy Thanks, but in the meantime I found similar item on ZORO.COM. They are $7.62/12 oz. can. I initially ordered 7, but the girl, Jen was nice enough to give me a 15% discount 9without having to wait for my coupon via e-mail) and I got 8 of them for less than the original 7. They have a 30 day money back guarantee with free shipping and a one year warranty.......just in case you need more. OH and free shipping over $50.
One of our many happy customers!! Thanks Blair
Touch N Foam makes it, I bet it is not in big box stores. Us little guys know it well.
Any time you cannot find a product send an email to staff@mrhardware.com and in a day (sorry when we are busy, or two)
we will ship anywhere in the continental USA.
I could be incorrect, but it looks like the material becomes porous after it cures and you cut it, then you have to reseal the exposed texture.
He uses the roof mastic at 5:10 to seal it
this is a good instructional video and I think the polystyrene foam which expands 2 - 3 times its original volume once dry makes a better watertight seal than the regular caulking silicone . Its best to wear gloves when applying as the stuff is very sticky and hard to get off your skin. The product sold here in NZ comes with a pair of plastic gloves .
Thank you
Thanks for the informative video ! I liked & suscribed.
Awesome Information!
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much! This is exactly what I need. I appreciate the info on the process and materials to use.
Great technique thank you..!
Thank you Blair, I found this very helpful. I tried using just silicone but did not work. Now to try the expanding foam idea.
I like to demo products that are readily available.
Great information thank you for sharing
We are glad to help, Blair and Tim
I’ve been watching videos using the backer rod. I need to repair exactly what you have-- cracks between my house and the driveway. Which way would you say is the most cost effective and will give the best results-backer rod or foam with roof tar caulk? As soon as we have another dry day, I’m ready here in Detroit to water proof my basement from the outside and then inside with drylock extreme. Great video-most informative and easy enough for a not so handy woman.
The foam is waterproof, backer rod is not. A can of minimal expanding foam is $5.99, worth the price to me.
Hello Mr. Hardware,
I added the foam then applied the roof tar and I have a really rough surface and finish. Is there anything I can do to smooth it out?
Very informative! What's the best approach to prepare the work area if there's a decades old sealing job already in place that has deteriorated (mainly, a crack runs along its length), rather than one that's never been sealed before?
Are usually take a flat blade lawn edger or ice scraper so I can go along the area on my feet and drive whatever is there either scrape it off or drive it down into the crack. Get it down 1 inch and a half or more and then you can foam and caulk over that.
You should use backing rods as well. I wouldn’t use that roof sealant there. They sometimes fail.
Thank you for all the information! I’m from SCS and remember Gilbert’s Hardware. I just bought a house in Rochester, and have a bunch of things around the house I don’t like the looks of, even though I had a great inspector, and it passed with just a few minor issues that I’m taking care of.
I’m scared of water damage because I got very ill from a water damaged condo. I now have a garage that floods in one place when it rains, and the huge driveway on the other side was just poured in the spring. It cost the former owner $13,000, and I don’t think he even knew it leaked.
I’m going to get this and try it. But, what is the chalk you recommended for after?
I’m a single, tiny woman, but I’ve always been handy, thank God!!!
I wish I lived closer to your store so I could come in regularly and ask questions. I love hardware stores!
The good thing is you can use any caulk to cover the foam. I use some that are more flexible, some for color. Don't let that slow you down.
Mr. Hardware Thank you so much! 🌿
This is giving me some inspiration. I live in the upper midwest and get some brutal winters. I have been using Super Seal Pli-Stix on my asphalt driveway for a few years. Works great until Winter comes and shifts everything around and then have a bunch of open cracks again. Might give black sprayfoam a try in the deeper cracks and then the Pli-Stix over the top of that but the hot melted Pli-Stix might melt the spray foam as well. Any advice for Asphalt cracks?
I’ve used foam first, any kind will work, then cover with/oil-based roof tar in a caulking gun for the longest life of the repair.
Mr Hardware, would I be able to fill larger/deeper gaps with this, how about driveway cracks? Great video!🙂 Thank you
Of course. the foam expands to fill almost all cracks. Take your time with narrow ones!
Thank you! It’s going to be my next project. 🙃
why not just use a urethane caulk instead of a sponge material?
The foam is a waterproof flexible long term filler, which is then coated with any caulk, urethane, latex caulk or tar. Which ever color or product fits the situation.
@@MrHardware1 they make backing rod if its a wide/deep joint
just saying that foam is more difficult to take out in ten years when the sealant failed or reverted
i would not advise to use a latex outdoors
@@bakedpagan4674 I'm not taking old foam out. After years of the concrete moving I may have to add more to fill any gaps caused by movement of the slabs. Backer rod is not waterproof and there are some great latex caulks although I prefer urethane also.
I have a gap between the foundation and the driveway. I don’t know if i should go with this method or use backer rods?
My cracks are very small relative to yours. I think if I used the foam, the vast majority of it would be excess. Could I just use sikaflex to fill the small crack and call it a day? Thank you so much for your video!
Of course, the foam is to reduce the amount of caulk required.
Thx 🙏
Thanks Mr. Hardware - quick question, will this adhere to asphalt driveways? Or just concrete? I have been searching and searching but can't seem to find good sealing products that will adhere to asphalt. Thanks!
This stuff sticks to EVERYTHING, usually me the best. lol
Why do we need 2 different products? Would one not have been sufficient?
If you can get the black Landscaper foam, it is waterproof and you don’t need two different products. As of today my store still can’t purchase any, the manufacture isn’t delivering, go figure..
How long before I can cut the foam?
I was in Gilberts to get the foam and caulk Monday, great service!
It usually cures hard in one to two hours. The thicker the longer to cure hard and not cut gooey.
If I lay a bead of the landscape foam down, but decide not to cut/trim it (not exposing the open cells), do I still need to apply tar or is that step really only necessary when the foam cells have been cut open?
The tar is more cosmetic when I trim the foam, not necessary.
Good question!
Mr. Hardware, what tool are you using to smooth the liquid tar along the joints?
I use a paint stick, cheep and disposable.
Are there any concerns with using tar caulk in this way? Does it soften or run in heat?
How wide a gap will that foam fill? Mine is much wider than this one in your video.
@@barrypenobscott9882 there is no limit, each pass can fill 1 1/2”. However over 2” gap may require other attention. Where is the driveway going?
What I'd the brand of the knife and where can I buy it?
They are many manufacturers, the important thing is that it is a break off knife. That allows you to flex the blade and get a smooth cut pretty level w/ the cement.
Why not just use backer rods?
@@barrypenobscott9882 it’s not waterproof. A gap filled with/foam is.
Hi Mr Hardware! My father thinks that Flexseal could also perform the same function. Do you have an opinion on Flexseal for sealing this kind of gap?
Flex seal is one of many good products for this project
Will the foam work with asphalt adjacent to house? If not, can you make a recommendation? Thanks!
Definitely, any flexible waterproof sealer will work well. The foam is one of the best though.
Hello! I am two weeks out to my closing date (yay!) but its already cold and rainy in Minnesota. I really want to seal up the space between foundation and driveway before the snow hits, but all I can do for now is wait two weeks and watch the weather. I'm probably overthinking this, but how important is it for the ground underneath the concrete to be dry? If it rains a little, how many days should I wait? I'm excited to try this out, if possible!
I would not worry about trapping a little bit of water in the concrete because it is going to drain down do your towels around the basement. As long as it’s not soaking wet I’d go ahead and do it myself.
it rained really hard in michigan today and last night and all the water came in from wall in basment by neighbor's driveway so I'm going to steal it just like you did today or tomorrow hope it works
Can you apply this when the ground is wet? I'm having flooding issues and want something I can use right away. Thanks!
If it is warm it will expand, but not adhere to the wet surface all that well. Be sure the concrete is pitched away from the house. If water accumulates next to the house it will find a way through the foam and the caulk.
Mr. Hardware, your help would be greatly appreciated....
I used your video and sealed around my foundstion as there were gaps. I did foam and the polyurethane caulk.
Unfortunately, it looks really ugly, but the gaps are sealed and waterproof.
Any tips/suggestions for getting caulk off cement?
Paint remover may soften the caulk so you can scrape it off. A heavy duty wire wheel may do the job also. Call the 800 number on the caulk and see what they recommend on their product.
Question: why would you use the foam, if your going to put a layer of cement overtop the foam?
Because it is flexible and waterproof, and I use caulk or tar, not cement to cover it. Cement and mortar aren’t flexible so when frost or moisture cause the sidewalk or driveway to move, even a little, they break up and fail usually within a year.
Why not use concrete and cement ?
It won’t flex with the concrete seeing as it moves up to 1 inch in a season but the house will not. The foam is a cushion that is waterproofer and flexible. It can move but stays waterproof longer than most other solutions.
@@MrHardware1 thank you so much for explaining. Also for making this video.
@@MrHardware1 my gap is just above 1 inch. Can I still use the above method you mentioned?
@@svddwd For sure, that is one of the best features.
Mr Hardware is that work for my ASPHALT driveway?
You bet!
Will this work between concrete and asphalt?
yup, perfect for it
I followed these steps on Saturday. It’s Tuesday and the tar is still not hard. Any ideas?
I would guess it may depend on the brand of the tar. In order to make it safe to walk on a sprinkle sand on it, it also lightens the color.
Do you recommend waterproofing the concreting too?
Well, I'm waterproofing the sidewalk to the building, and I do all the cracks that are perpendicular to the building also.
What did you use for the caulk gun and whats the name of it and what was the name for the foam you use that you
I used Dewitt’s roof tar, the foam is Touch n Foam exterior landscape foam. Neither product is that important, any minimal expanding foam, trimmed, and then covered with any decent cock is still a great job that should last over 10 years.
Thank you
In the beginning of the video it looked like you caulked then used the black foam the caulked again? I am confused please reply...
Sorry, the foam first to fill the crack inorder to save caulk. The black foam is used when I don't have time to go back and caulk because the black foam is uv save. The typical foam will rot in the sun thus requires a covering, hense the caulk.
The Touch N Foam Landscape foam is hard to find in my area, would the Great Stuff Pond & Stone foam be a good alternative?
It sure is, but if it is not uv save be sure to cover it.
@@MrHardware1 covering it with the Dewitt roof cement?
@@donteturner66 Perfect, we love Dewitts, out of Detroit, eh?
Is there an advantage to doing it this way than with the cell foam backer rod and quik crete or some other self leveler?
This is watertight where backer rod is to save caulk but relies on the caulk for waterproofing. Longer lasting job.
@@MrHardware1 This is the comment I was looking for. The seal looks better and it looks much easier to use than the backer rod.
So I have a wood threshold between my driveway and house and in my driveway seams. Should I remove enough of it as possible before applying the foam?
If you could remove it, foam it, and replace it I say yes
@@MrHardware1 I don’t really want to put the wood back. It’s ugly. I was thinking if I can’t rio it all out to, chip away an inch or so, fill with foam and then top it like you did. OR using that self leveling stuff.
I have heard people suggesting using becker rod and then silkaflex seal, is your method equal or better in effectiveness?
+Yellowknight888
Yellow, the aerosol foam is more waterproof than backer rod, which is barely waterproof. But the silkaflex is a great product, I would place this method a close second.
I just found water in my basement due to the el Nino rains and my cracked driveway. Does the concrete need to be dry before I patch it?
+Kimberly T
Yes, the foam will barely adhere to a wet surface. Wait for a dry day, or after 3 dry days to install the foam.
So what exactly do I need to seal outside garage foundation where water is sipping through? I have concrete on the side of garage with slope towards garage so when it rains all water goes towards foundation.
No easy cure, the concrete needs to be re-pitched to send water away from the building. Otherwise you have to build a drain system to capture the water and pump it away.
We had the same problem. We Installed a french drain the length of our garage, and that drained into a dry well. Tedious…but easy enough to do and no more water in our garage.
Can you recap it?
Yes, I use roof tar or caulk to polish the job, or I need something to protect the 'Non landscape' foam that is more common to find. I use colored caulks also.
Do I caulk first then foam or foam then caulk?
The foam is the pre-filler so you can caulk over it
Would this be good when I’m insulating a exterior wall
I use it to fill all cracks I can before drywalling. I used it to 'weld' foam together when insulating or building stuff.
Mr. Hardware thanks I’m insulating a porch with Sheetrock and besides normal insulation I want something for all the cracks appreciate your help
Where do you buy the landscape foam , non of the stores has it , Home Depot dose not have it .
You can use the minimal foam, then cover it with a caulk of the color that matches the surrounding area. Forget the landscaping foam if it is going to be covered and protected from the sun.
Do you recommend Touch 'n Foam Landscape foam or would any Brand black landscape foam do?
I like them all, it’s all about what you can purchase locally.
@@MrHardware1 It's not available where I am. I will try another brand Thanks for the reply. Good answer
Blair, thanks for the video. About how long does this last? I live in Michigan and worry about the freeze thaw and it breaking away from the block wall. Thank You!
I usually ;have to touch it up every few years. The better the job the less the concrete moves from the frost, the longer it will last.
What kind of knife is being recommended @ 4:26? What is the brand of the foam?
I use a 'cheepo' zip knife. One with 7 break-off blades. Be careful but you can flex it so you can cut the foam close to flush with the cement. I'm using Touch n Foam, the minimal expanding model.
Thank you.
all due respect, this is why-where-how most basements leak/seep, may get some mold, efflorescence inside ua-cam.com/video/5dpGpiB7kQI/v-deo.html She already tried sealing along driveway-house and added very long downspout ext's. Block wall, driveway side ua-cam.com/video/Tq_o7C6KMUA/v-deo.html
Anderson, please don't spam my site.
I agree w/you, interior drain systems only undermine the footings causing more wall failures, cracks.
Hey Blair, DeWitt doesn't distribute to by town and I need something quickly at my local home Depot, is there an equivalent at homedepot.com? Please share a link. Thanks!
+Sh Za
You could use any roofing caulk, check to be sure it doesn't react w/the foam.
+Blair Gilbert - How do you know if the roof caulk will not react with the foam? What is the name of the foam? TY.
You can use black exterior caulking or gray cement caulk. Neither will react with the foam, I'm not an expert on the big box products because so often they don't meet our expectations.
Go latex if you aren't sure. Can't go wrong that way. Blair
hi Blair
Basement foundation is concrete and walkway is asphalt. Will the landscape foam adhere to both surfaces? Also will the foam waterproof without roof patch on north side of house? Thanks much.
that foam sticks to EVERYTHING!!! Mostly me, and you do not have to cover the black foam to protect it or make it waterproof.
WHAt's the name of the black foam............?????????
landscape foam, got mine at a true value.
Don’t do it, use (Sika flex)