If you've been watching OO Bill's videos then you've learned from the best. He recently fixed my Hornby Doublo crimson-livered Coronation Class "City of London", which was a childhood icon of mine. This model, made in 1958 and acquired in the late 1970s by my late father for us to enjoy together, is now running as well as the day it left the factory. Good luck with your new channel.
Hi, Very well done on sorting the good old 37 and its running well so I am impressed how you are learning about this hobby the only uncomfortable bit was the oil so to get very small drops of oil take a paper clip unravel it so its straight and push it into a wine cork and then put a small amount of oil in a container dip it in and thats afar safer way to oil your trains. Cheers Robert.
Hey Robert, thank you for stopping by again, yes very uncomfortable 😣 my heart stopped when it poured out 😂 I will do that in future thank you for that top tip!
Back in the day, Hornby used to sell small bottles of (Shell branded) oil with a thin piece of metal - rather like a straightened paper clip - pushed into a cork to be used for applying the smallest drop of oil onto the lube points.
Since I came across 00Bill, I learned from him and then started servicing all my engines and even 'new' second hand ones I've bought since. All in all, I've serviced about 30 locos and brought a lot back to life that hadn't been run since the 80's!! I even bought a complete non runner from my local second hand shop for £10 and it just wouldn't move when I tried it straight from the shop. 1 Hour later, I'd brought it back to life as a good runner! The servicing is the part I enjoy most of all.
Wow you’ve done some serious work there Clive, yes Bill is really a fantastic way to learn, he’s basically covered everything British in some way or shape so cross checking against his work is easy. 💪 I’m glad you enjoy it too, I find myself losing hours trying to bring them back to life, but they are some of the happiest hours 😊 Cheers Hylt
@@Proper_Chuffed Thanks. The good thing is, he's serviced engines that I've since bought, or had already got, so checking the exact same model he's serviced, while I service mine, is really helpful.
@@clivegoodwin8931quite so, every time I get a “new” loco in need of a service the first thing I do is go to OO Bills channel 😂 thank goodness for him!
Opening with toothpicks is pretty brutal on old models. I use clear plastic sheet from bits of packing that was getting binned. Ease out the body and slip the plastic into the areas where the clips live. It puts less strain on the body being bent out.
hi hilton ... i recently aquired a hornby class 37 weathered edition ... to start with it ran great ... i was told it hadnt been used for over 10 years ... the loco is like new ... the problem then happened it made a noise and i lost drive ... on inspection it had chewed some teeth from the smaller drive cog ... just waiting for my new cogs to arrive to see it can be resolved ...
Hi Mark, that sounds like a massive hassle, I am sorry you had such an issue with yours. Hope the replacement gear sorts out the issue for you. Best regards, Hylt
The screaming is usually solved by a small drop of oil behind the small cog on the motor spindle. Well done for getting it sorted. The Ringfield motor is usually very reliable. Enjoyed watching . Thanks for showing. Regards Paul.
To lubricate the motor bearings I'd suggest using a mix of sewing machine oil and technical petroleum jelly grease. It's less runny and there's less risk of oil reaching the brushes or windings.
You can use technical petroleum jelly grease for the cogged wheels and axle transmission. You can use it to lubricate axle pick-ups etc. For the rotor bearings just put a small drop of sewing machine oil mixed with petroleum jelly in a 50/50 ratio.
Thank you so much Kevin, that is great info there 😊 I was wondering, do numbers usually go in those squares on the front? Sorry I don’t know the correct terms 😅
@@Proper_Chuffed yes numbers and letters go in the boxes known as headcodes an example would be 1A50 for express passenger and 7E40 for freight, there are plenty of pictures online with these locos displaying the headcodes after 1st January 1976 the four digit headcodes were abolished, hope this was helpful
@@kevinblakeman8858 very helpful thank you Kevin. I would like to add numbers then to mine but perhaps money better spent buying a new unit altogether 😅 thank you though
Not watched the video, but all I used to do was use a drop of suitable (oil that won't damage the plastic) oil on the motor bearings,/drive shaft. That usuallt solved the issue!
Thank you for the kind words, this video is a bit older and I realize I should have done the reassembly 😂 I will make sure to do so when I next have a video like this
You may have found a tiny drop of oil on the opposite end of the spindle to the gear end might have been enough. However, well done for going the full distance in your servicing of the motor. Be careful not to use too much oil. Otherwise, it can get on the commutator and brushes, which is not a good thing to happen at all. You also have to be careful with the type of oil to use. Nowadays, 3 in 1 is not recommended.
Thank you so much for that feedback, and noted, going forward I will be very aware of that when I next encounter a ringfield. I am genuinely very grateful for this kind of info, thanks Jeffrey 🙌 so much to learn 😅
I rebuild these things with all the sloppy play taken out and a proper bearing at each end of the armature. They might as well be a different motor the amount of difference it makes. The way Hornby built them they were as good as worn out to start with. Just imagine that running super smooth and virtually silent to get some idea of what they are like when I've finished with them.
Probably the best way to do it, unfortunately I’m no where near that skill level, nor do I have the resources readily available to do that 😅 thanks for the comment 💪
Tim: do you reset the gears/bearings, and install pickups? Time has disarmed my participation in this part of our interest area, but I still hope one day to re-specify one of those old 'pancake' designs, huge task that it is. It should be possible to establish pickup on both sides of five axles, the sixth carrying traction tyres (probably Marklin) on both wheels, reset the gears so as to increase bearing life. Also, probably the five slot armature supplied with (I believe) a version of the 'Brit' might be available as a spare part from Hornby????????? and might be retro-fittable (Spalcheque hated that) to this motor. Don't forget to exhaustively test anything worked on for heat buildup. Huge task, but these locos just might have the makings of something way beyond what they were built as. Lastly, your comment on the armature play is of interest. '00 Bill' reported loosening the face plate on (I think?) the first version of the Brush 4, to stop armature binding. Seems like we need to be aware of insufficient 'headspace' and be ready to shim it out. Very much enjoyed your comment. Poor old Robert must be wondering what he has started. Peter
Oiling it is only temp fix....this motor only has one Bush on the armature which is a problem when the plastic case wears causing resonance...you need to make a bush to go in this side as I did and it fixed the problem.....why they only put one bush on the shaft is mad ...
green was the first livery they wore from 1960 onwards they were built till 1965 which was 4 yrs before the end of steam and green ones would have still been running into the early 70s
I work in a model shop that sells 2nd hand trains and im the repairer of these trains and fix and service them. I can take a ringfeild motor apart in my sleep you should of stripped it totally popped the brass gear off and took the full motor armature out just because they'd be years of debris in the armature housing too.
That’s a very cool job. Yeah I should have, however I’m really new to all of this and am learning as I go, thank you for the tip, I’ll try do it better next time. 💪
@@Proper_Chuffed your messing with 50 to 60 year old tech and magnets that are not as powerful as they once were. so you either buy a remagitizer or try neodymium magnets to bring life back to it. but pete's spares in the UK have just brought modern replacements out OObill has just done a review of two of them. £28.50 of one 🙂
@@andofthedrew5171 to be very honest with you, I don’t think I’ll go anywhere near Triang again after this 😂 but yes, saw Bills video, looks like a great solution to that problem 🙌
Hey Terry, thanks for that, I didn’t realize, I actually thought they were connection points too, this is good to know, they still haven’t proven to cause any issue, but now I know they can be removed without issue should problems arise, thank you so much for this!
If you've been watching OO Bill's videos then you've learned from the best.
He recently fixed my Hornby Doublo crimson-livered Coronation Class "City of London", which was a childhood icon of mine. This model, made in 1958 and acquired in the late 1970s by my late father for us to enjoy together, is now running as well as the day it left the factory.
Good luck with your new channel.
Thank you. Yes I find his content super enjoyable, he’s a real expert 😊 thanks for the wishes and I appreciate the support
Hi,
Very well done on sorting the good old 37 and its running well so I am impressed how you are learning about this hobby the only uncomfortable bit was the oil so to get very small drops of oil take a paper clip unravel it so its straight and push it into a wine cork and then put a small amount of oil in a container dip it in and thats afar safer way to oil your trains.
Cheers Robert.
Hey Robert, thank you for stopping by again, yes very uncomfortable 😣 my heart stopped when it poured out 😂 I will do that in future thank you for that top tip!
Yes, less is more when lubricating locos
@@stephendavies6949 definitely 😂 made a bit of a mess but the lesson is learnt
We've all done - and sometimes continue to do - it!
Back in the day, Hornby used to sell small bottles of (Shell branded) oil with a thin piece of metal - rather like a straightened paper clip - pushed into a cork to be used for applying the smallest drop of oil onto the lube points.
Since I came across 00Bill, I learned from him and then started servicing all my engines and even 'new' second hand ones I've bought since. All in all, I've serviced about 30 locos and brought a lot back to life that hadn't been run since the 80's!! I even bought a complete non runner from my local second hand shop for £10 and it just wouldn't move when I tried it straight from the shop. 1 Hour later, I'd brought it back to life as a good runner! The servicing is the part I enjoy most of all.
Wow you’ve done some serious work there Clive, yes Bill is really a fantastic way to learn, he’s basically covered everything British in some way or shape so cross checking against his work is easy. 💪 I’m glad you enjoy it too, I find myself losing hours trying to bring them back to life, but they are some of the happiest hours 😊
Cheers
Hylt
@@Proper_Chuffed Thanks. The good thing is, he's serviced engines that I've since bought, or had already got, so checking the exact same model he's serviced, while I service mine, is really helpful.
@@clivegoodwin8931quite so, every time I get a “new” loco in need of a service the first thing I do is go to OO Bills channel 😂 thank goodness for him!
Opening with toothpicks is pretty brutal on old models. I use clear plastic sheet from bits of packing that was getting binned. Ease out the body and slip the plastic into the areas where the clips live. It puts less strain on the body being bent out.
Agreed Kelly, I have since learnt to use a plastic card, won't be making that mistake again, but thank you for pointing this out! Hylt
hi hilton ... i recently aquired a hornby class 37 weathered edition ... to start with it ran great ... i was told it hadnt been used for over 10 years ... the loco is like new ... the problem then happened it made a noise and i lost drive ... on inspection it had chewed some teeth from the smaller drive cog ... just waiting for my new cogs to arrive to see it can be resolved ...
Hi Mark, that sounds like a massive hassle, I am sorry you had such an issue with yours. Hope the replacement gear sorts out the issue for you. Best regards, Hylt
Really enjoyed this, good stuff 💪
Thanks very much, I’m glad you enjoyed it, I am still so very new to all of it, so it’s awesome to know I’m doing something right 😅
The screaming is usually solved by a small drop of oil behind the small cog on the motor spindle. Well done for getting it sorted. The Ringfield motor is usually very reliable. Enjoyed watching . Thanks for showing. Regards Paul.
Hey Paul, thank you so much for stopping by 😊 thanks for that, I really appreciate that tip. Good to know they’re so reliable too 👍
To lubricate the motor bearings I'd suggest using a mix of sewing machine oil and technical petroleum jelly grease. It's less runny and there's less risk of oil reaching the brushes or windings.
Good to knowz Where would the petroleum jelly go? Right onto the central axle?
You can use technical petroleum jelly grease for the cogged wheels and axle transmission. You can use it to lubricate axle pick-ups etc.
For the rotor bearings just put a small drop of sewing machine oil mixed with petroleum jelly in a 50/50 ratio.
Enjoying your videos, Hilton. M
Thank you Michael, I really appreciate you stopping by ☺️ have a fantastic day.
Hylt
The split headcode class 37 you have was first released by Hornby in 1986
Thank you so much Kevin, that is great info there 😊 I was wondering, do numbers usually go in those squares on the front? Sorry I don’t know the correct terms 😅
@@Proper_Chuffed yes numbers and letters go in the boxes known as headcodes an example would be 1A50 for express passenger and 7E40 for freight, there are plenty of pictures online with these locos displaying the headcodes after 1st January 1976 the four digit headcodes were abolished, hope this was helpful
@@kevinblakeman8858 very helpful thank you Kevin. I would like to add numbers then to mine but perhaps money better spent buying a new unit altogether 😅 thank you though
Not watched the video, but all I used to do was use a drop of suitable (oil that won't damage the plastic) oil on the motor bearings,/drive shaft. That usuallt solved the issue!
That’s what I thought too, and it certainly did the trick 👍
Hi just found the site good content m8 i thought it was going to show about to how you put it back together aswell?
Thank you for the kind words, this video is a bit older and I realize I should have done the reassembly 😂 I will make sure to do so when I next have a video like this
Never ever had a brush come out with the springs alway had to tap then out to replase then
Yes it seemed to give way too easily! 😅
You may have found a tiny drop of oil on the opposite end of the spindle to the gear end might have been enough. However, well done for going the full distance in your servicing of the motor. Be careful not to use too much oil. Otherwise, it can get on the commutator and brushes, which is not a good thing to happen at all. You also have to be careful with the type of oil to use. Nowadays, 3 in 1 is not recommended.
Thank you so much for that feedback, and noted, going forward I will be very aware of that when I next encounter a ringfield. I am genuinely very grateful for this kind of info, thanks Jeffrey 🙌 so much to learn 😅
I rebuild these things with all the sloppy play taken out and a proper bearing at each end of the armature. They might as well be a different motor the amount of difference it makes. The way Hornby built them they were as good as worn out to start with. Just imagine that running super smooth and virtually silent to get some idea of what they are like when I've finished with them.
Probably the best way to do it, unfortunately I’m no where near that skill level, nor do I have the resources readily available to do that 😅 thanks for the comment 💪
Tim: do you reset the gears/bearings, and install pickups? Time has disarmed my participation in this part of our interest area, but I still hope one day to re-specify one of those old 'pancake' designs, huge task that it is. It should be possible to establish pickup on both sides of five axles, the sixth carrying traction tyres (probably Marklin) on both wheels, reset the gears so as to increase bearing life. Also, probably the five slot armature supplied with (I believe) a version of the 'Brit' might be available as a spare part from Hornby????????? and might be retro-fittable (Spalcheque hated that) to this motor. Don't forget to exhaustively test anything worked on for heat buildup. Huge task, but these locos just might have the makings of something way beyond what they were built as. Lastly, your comment on the armature play is of interest. '00 Bill' reported loosening the face plate on (I think?) the first version of the Brush 4, to stop armature binding. Seems like we need to be aware of insufficient 'headspace' and be ready to shim it out.
Very much enjoyed your comment. Poor old Robert must be wondering what he has started.
Peter
Oiling it is only temp fix....this motor only has one Bush on the armature which is a problem when the plastic case wears causing resonance...you need to make a bush to go in this side as I did and it fixed the problem.....why they only put one bush on the shaft is mad ...
green was the first livery they wore from 1960 onwards they were built till 1965 which was 4 yrs before the end of steam and green ones would have still been running into the early 70s
Brilliant! Thanks very much for this info, I think the green is definitely the most handsome livery on the 37, not a big fan of that blue
lol , blue is the era i model ,, for nostalgic reasons as it was when i worked on the railways in signal boxes@@Proper_Chuffed
@@shakeyhandsshedmodelrailwa2494 wow that’s really cool that you worked in signal boxes, I can imagine it was a very enjoyable albeit stressful job? 😅
it was back in the days when stress was something you found in metals , we were all fairly laid back and there were more trains@@Proper_Chuffed
😂 stress was found in metals. Love that. I can imagine you must have enjoyed it very much, I am green with envy. What a wonderful anecdote
I work in a model shop that sells 2nd hand trains and im the repairer of these trains and fix and service them. I can take a ringfeild motor apart in my sleep you should of stripped it totally popped the brass gear off and took the full motor armature out just because they'd be years of debris in the armature housing too.
That’s a very cool job. Yeah I should have, however I’m really new to all of this and am learning as I go, thank you for the tip, I’ll try do it better next time. 💪
@@Proper_Chuffed and avoid old tri-ang stuff I hate anything to do with there motors but i have to fix them too 😂🤣
@@andofthedrew5171 it’s funny you mention that, I’ve actually just done one and it was a total nightmare 🤣
@@Proper_Chuffed your messing with 50 to 60 year old tech and magnets that are not as powerful as they once were. so you either buy a remagitizer or try neodymium magnets to bring life back to it. but pete's spares in the UK have just brought modern replacements out OObill has just done a review of two of them. £28.50 of one 🙂
@@andofthedrew5171 to be very honest with you, I don’t think I’ll go anywhere near Triang again after this 😂 but yes, saw Bills video, looks like a great solution to that problem 🙌
It is indeed a beaut...👌
Thank you so much 😊
Hi, those middle wheels are only there to make the numbers up and don't do anything electrical, so they are not fixed.
Hey Terry, thanks for that, I didn’t realize, I actually thought they were connection points too, this is good to know, they still haven’t proven to cause any issue, but now I know they can be removed without issue should problems arise, thank you so much for this!
@@Proper_Chuffed - commonly known as 'dummy' wheels. Purely freewheeling on the tiny spindles (one is attached to the faceplate through the hole)
instead of cocktail sticks to remove the body, try cut up pieces of an old credit card
Great tip, thank you very much for that!
Alternatively plectrums for guitars work very well.
Solid advice thank you 😊
Eeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!
Exactly 😂