tested and it works i used 12v 7amp with a dipping motion, worked better then 6v 0.5amp everyone say so much about that actually burns for some reason :D
YT biases success and monetized content. Your also limited to certain social circles within the site in order to manage SEO and traffic (these are simple empirical observations as YT will never fully disclose how they manage SEO). The way to circumvent these conditions is to look for users with publicly listed subscriptions/likes/real playlists. I'm not monetized, so I have nothing to gain in telling you, my subscriptions are publicly listed, as are all of my playlists. I use playlists as a form of notes on things I find helpful and interesting. My playlists are intended for my own personal use, but they are organized alphabetically and cataloged. I specifically look for small CC's and people that contribute to free and open source projects. -Jake BTW Thriftstore Hacker -I just Sub'd ;)
Thanks for subscribing. I have made just under $500 for two years of videos. I don't mess with the AdSense stuff much nor do I care due to UA-cam paying so little. I would really like to make 150k to pay all my debts off and do an outrageous season of videos but unless someone with very deep pockets funds it I don't see it happening. Currently videos are being posted when I get the time to do them. It's a hobby of playing with random junk that I like to share with others and I'm ok with that.
ThriftStore Hacker I don't hold it against anyone if they want to monetize. It's certainly your right, just like it's everyone's right to choose what they watch. If someone goes crazy with ads I just won't watch unless they are doing something really remarkable. I was referring to the difficult task of finding people that post first source, nonmonetized content. For instance, Tom W. is on UA-cam and has posted videos about KiCAD software (open source schematic and pcb design software). If someone new to KiCAD searches on YT for info or tutorials, the results are dominated by CC's that have monetized content. However, it took ages before I came across Tom's posts. Tom is one of the 3 software developers that work for CERN (European Nuclear Energy Program) and were tasked with improving KiCAD. His uploads aren't beginner's tutorials, but they explain the functional aspects that make KiCAD really useful. That's the kind of stuff that is hard to find. When I see someone that is looking for more advanced content, (usually this is what someone implies when they say they are 'trying to find smaller CC's), I try to reach out because I've experienced a similar frustration. Personally I see some duality in the utility of UA-cam. I think of YT as both a great source of educational entertainment, and a place to share more advanced interests, like an 'Intellectual Instagram.' The entertainment side is much more monetized and the main demographic target of YT SEO. That's just my $0.02. My comments weren't intended as a negative opinion of others that chose to monetize, but instead were an observation of the difficulty of finding some of the best sources available due to the inherent bias necessary for successful CC's, and a successful site in general. -Jake
I know from welding zinc, when you try to remove the zinc with a Tiger Paw or a Flapper disc, the zinc is removed visually but the zinc is still there and you still can't weld to it so you have to use a hard rock gringing disc and really dig into it, to reach the bare metal in order to weld to it, so i would try sand blasting the parts and see if you get better results.
The zinc will take the copper but not too well. Grinding it down to bare metal would help a lot. When I get some more funds I plan on plating a beach cruiser bike for the local steampunk convention. Should be fun.
what i like is how the parts came out brightly plated,,usually my parts come out with what looks like a matt rusty copper that has to be brushed off but looks brilliant once brushed off
@@LEO-xo9cz i think the first few minutes it gives a nice shiny coat but if left longer it goes into mud ,,each exp was different and i dont remember ,been a while
The only drawback is that on the copper electrode a greenish-blue non-conductive layer grows during the electoplating. It is copper hydroxide (patina), which can be dissolved by vinegar, or scraped with steel wool. The latter is time-consuming and very exhausting.
Hi dear friend first of all thumbs up for this video so I learned how to do cooper electroplating which is awesome thanks Ok I have a question about gold plating process any idea that you can share THANKS
if that washer was zinc coated then you should not have brushed it off with the dremel,,this is why it did not look so good,i think zinc acts as a good bond for copper juts like nickle which is better
i still dont know how this seems to be working because its just a water solution with no acid to help strip but it seems to work kinda,maybe your current is high enough thats why?
It will work without acid like vinegar. Already tried it but he forgot one thing is to nickel plate it first to clean out any debris or foreign substance currently in the metal which is why it doesnt completely electroplated and current is kinda low which is why it is slow.
Which wire goes where positive to copper or negative to copper and when you first started what went to what? Did both wires go to copper or did one go to a different metal?
Connect a piece of copper to each wire first, leave it in solution for about 45 minutes, this makes the electrolyte. Then remove the copper from the negative wire and connect the piece of metal you want to plate. It's also better to mix baking powder in warm water.
Used a similar copper zinc thing with a simple food grade acid on a few flint lock's barrels for a flat darker gray very Corrosion restant affect and molton salts passivated most the other steel bits. This Base solution is INTERESTING to "ME"and could have desired knock on effects? Going to try soon on an UGLY Dead parts supper cheap trade 1911 slide
Now if only one of us could come up with an easy way to plate glass with metal films. Let's face it optical grade glass isn't cheap. I've tried things like sputter coating it in a vacuum jar. I've tried chemical processes too. See the thing is, I need first surface mirrors for some optical experiments I've been working on. I've had several lasers over my life from ruby to gass and even a few decent diode lasers. Combining beams is one of those holy grail things in that field. I figured out how to make a decent device but I need first surface mirrors for it to work. I've seen lots of videos about others doing it. I just don't have the same success. The biggest problem is keeping the shop clean. It is by most standards but it's not "clean room" clean. While I can get away with fixing hard drives and working on other optical equipment like when my camera's lense somehow get's that annoying flake of dust on the inside of the lense somehow... The point being that you can mess up the finish if you even breathe on the glass let alone touch it at all. Tricky stuff...
You'd think that would work right? It doesn't though. Leaded glass doesn't conduct like we think it should. In fact it takes some pretty high voltage to get anything to pass through it. No, lately I've been experimenting with broken LCD panels. The problem is that they aren't completely coated. They just metalize the contact area for the pixel matrix.
When you vaporize a metal wire with high current in a vacuum, it will coat everything inside with a layer of metal. I forget what its called but basically the metal vapors condense on the surfaces and turns solid. Another alternative is fire brazing where you paint on a mercury almalgum and then use a torch to burn away the mercury leaving the metal behind.
richard vaughn I have seen this on a few UA-cam videos. I think Cody's Lab or Periodic Videos did it. I will look into trying the method but my funds for projects are very low. If I can find a way to do it cheap I will post it.
ExStatic Bass have you tried the chemical method used to make mirrors? Its something like silver nitrate and an acid of some sort that draws the silver out of solution.
is that a solid copper plate? because it looked like bare white metal when oxidised,,can you simply grind it back to its original finish ,also can this be done using brass or gold necklace to gold plate? will it rub off easly with youir fingers or it depends on how many layers got put on and how long it took?
yes yes i think i just learned keeping everything clean in the process produces better results,,i have tried on a 9v bat and tried doing a quarter but this gunky stuff built up fast on it and burns and just rubbed off but what i did started noticing is my small alligator clip that was holding the part actually came out looking great after several attempts of doing the quarter,,the clip after cleaning the gunk out actually had a lovely even coat of id say a good amount of microns as its hard to rub off or scratch,it turned out amazing when putting a regular clip next to it,even coated between the small teeth and the small screw on it ,so im puzzled why it worked there but not on the quarter,,im thinking it must be either the plating on the clip or the quarter are different or it could be i did not properly clean the quarter? i never cleaned the clip to begin with so i assume whatever its originally plated with(i guess nickel of some kind) it did the job,but i have to keep trying ,this time im using a small dime and i cleaned it with jewelry cleaner and made it look like a mirror problem is i did not wash it with water but simply wiped it and started the process,hopefully the cleaner wont affect it like skin oils might,also my 9v may have died down to the perfect current right now lol i had no idea how long a batt can last doing this but its slow now with very little bubbles but the dime is getting browned like normal,,but its a learning and exp curve each time ,so just keep at it
i used vinegar and salt last time and i guess i can put some lemon juice or citric acid in there as well,,this time i used a jewelry cleaner and its been in the bath almost 2 hrs now and so far the dime has a nice copper pale coat on it and not some brown dark crapp like before,,so far so good but we shall see,,im still wondering why i failed before with the quarter and yet the clip came out good? could it be the plating finish on the clip has anything to do with it? also does a porous metal surface help? i saw a guy directly copper plating aluminium without any zinc or nickel pre strike
Pour it outside in Nature. Metals are from the nature so they are compounds from Nature, that blue color is the same color when coagulated and made sapphire, green one is emerald, ruby red etc... It's gonna become either metal or mineral
I Have Done The Same . With Around 5 V Voltage And Two Copper Electrod Connected With Lead Acid Battry . And Kept The Solution For Around 3 Hours But There Is No Change In Its Colour . Does It Means That The Process Is Not Going Correctly ?
@@neutronpcxt372 hey that's not good I think you may have to many amps is it clear or foggy I did similar and idk what I made it will plate tho just polish it a little after cause it will be black
I wouldn't drink it because of the copper. I think the only risk with the way I make the solution is hydrogen gas from electrolysis. I'm not a scientist and cannot tell you the full facts.
In order to chrome plate on steel you need to copper plate the steel, then nickel plate the copper and finally chrome plate the nickel. I suggest finding a copy of something like "The players handbook." Be really careful as the chrome solution and rinsed are very hazardous.
A quick question. My first attempt at copper plating steel (or some sort of steel alloy) failed horribly. Then I read or saw that in order to copper plate steel it needed to be nickel plated first. I since have ordered a nickel anode to use, going on that bit of information. Then I see another vid of someone copper plating a steel hammer with no need for nickel. What am I missing and what am I doing wrong? What I am trying to plate is a float bowl off of a generator that rust bigtime on the inside when generator is dormant.(rust then plugs the main jet and generator will not run) Whatever alloy is it... magnets stick to it... so it certainly has an iron content. When I did the plating procedure it all looked like it was doing just fine...….. turning the float bowl a dark red. Taken out of solution an wiping it down... ALL of the red wiped off. Zero plating. Id appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. Thanks...
I honestly haven't got this completely figured out yet and plan to release another video this month. One thing I have noticed, if you use very low voltage and amperage and go really slow the results are much better.
If I remember correctly the E_0 of Cu is around 0.54 V. I don't think that voltage affects the rate, but current does. So theoretically, you could do this with just one triple a battery.
@@ThriftStoreHacker thanks for responding on such an old video! good to see that you are very engaged with your viewers. I just subscribed and i hope to see the video soon! cheers.
Shunkawakan Okawingha I'm not sure. I have so many questions on this video about plating I guess I have to revisit it soon. If you try let me know your results.
I've used pre-1982 pennies as my copper source for plating. I think it's a copper-zinc alloy? The zinc will not plate out as it's more reactive than hydrogen and will stay in solution.
@@ThriftStoreHacker thanks I have been meaning to try it. I pound copper and I use Nitric Acid to clean up the fire scale after annealing. It never accured to me to save the "wash". Also thanks for getting back, I know now that I am not 86ed, from UA-cam. It's nice that you share neet stuff.
If you don't want to burn through batteries, go look for an old power supply next time you're in a thrift store. Most of them will only run 4/5 volts, and they're already DC, so you can "plug and play".
@@kiaas ok but i always thought you need some acid to get this thing going so it helps strip the metal ,also peroxide acts like a catalyst to help create the electrolyte solution but i never seen water and bs alone,,funny his water color is blue mine is usually always turning green but it works
@@ARCSTREAMS bases (which make alkaline solutions) do the same thing as acids, in this regard. Chemistry isn't my forte, but both acids and bases can be used to make soluble compounds that'll plate metals, as both can be Corrosive. vinegar will make copper acetate and baking soda will make basic copper carbonate, as the copper-bearing electrolyte here. They'll have different oxidation states on the copper so different colors.
@@ARCSTREAMS don't plate stainless steel the electricity will leech the chromium out of the stainless and will be floating around in your water. When you stick your little hand in there to retrieve it you'll be getting a dose of heavy metal poisoning( not talking about Motley Crue) and then you'll be sick.
i appreciate your concern but not so sure what you are saying is really that credible and hazardous ,,also as a welder of SS there is more danger there from the fumes i breath at work than doing this ,but we wear masks ,gloves and have over head vacuum ventilation
how long did it take to get blue? i tried with bs and water and nothing happens,,i also tried with salt and vinegar but after 30 min i do not see any change ,however once i put a few drops of hydrogen peroxide it activates the blue color and starts?
@@ARCSTREAMS It took me about 2 hours before the solution went a bit blue. If you want faster results, use copper electrodes with bigger surface area, meaning wire will work very well, and a higher volume of water. Otherwise, you may get metallic copper deposit on the cathode, and WILL contaminate the solution.
@@ARCSTREAMS Too fast oxidation will actually create metallic copper(Cu3+, or even Cu4+ if current is stupid high), which is an oxide. The copper we want to be plated is Cu2+, and the production of Cu3+ on the cathode will result in a thin black coating on the copper, making the plating very thin and fragile.
yeah but he uses a few chems that are hard to get a hold of and im looking to see if there is an easier way and less harmful using things you find around the house ,,i can still get muratic acid and amonia etc but hcl and sulfuric or nitric acid is just too much bother,,surely there must be a simpler solution that can strip the gold off some bracelet i can use but i need to research more ,not like i can juts mess around with gold like its a disposable metal lol ,,say what about gold bond? lol
@@ARCSTREAMS You can always try a different method. Plasma Coating ua-cam.com/video/EMzRZ4gXQ-0/v-deo.html However this is just as hard and dangerous...
i dont see how copper was striped in your solution which has no acid in it? it dont matter about the current,,water and sodium bicarbonate will make an electrolyte but wont strip
I have been trying to recreate this solution today and not getting much luck. I wonder if the bits of pipe im using are not pure enough copper, or too old of baking soda, or something in my water supply is throwing it off. I tried adding vinegar but it just reacts with the baking soda and bubbles. Kinda driving me crazy but i will figure it out. *headdesk*
yeah sometimes getting these solutions to work is tricky,i made a Ni solution and it was green which tells me it worked but when i tried plating a copper penny it did nothing but bubbles,,idk what i did or did not do but eventually it worked and started plating the penny ,,but mixing bs and vinegar will neutralize the solution,idk why ppl do that for? you need an acidic solution for it to work,idk how your bs worked last time,maybe because there was some salt in the bs which helped and you used lots of it,,,im going nuts now trying to copper plate this metal cross i made a long time ago,i striped it down to bare metal and Ni plated it and then Cu plated it,unfortunately it did not plate 100% there were small patches ,i had to redo it over several times and for some reasons the patch areas are not bonding with the Cu,pissing me off and driving me nuts as to why? but the Cu platting looks nice and thick when i looked at the edge of those patches with my magnifying glass i can see a pretty solid thick coat edge of the Cu
@@ARCSTREAMS hey! I figured out how to make the solution. Use a lot of baking soda. I put the two copper plates in water and added baking soda until the plates started lightly bubbling. After about an hour of running on my usb powered setup the solution started turning blue! Im currently waiting for any excess soda to settle in the bottom of the jar and will pour off the solution into a fresh container to plate with. I will try to put out a video tomorrow.
glad to hear it worked for you,i tried it for an hour and saw no discernible color change ,how much bs did you use? according to the poster he says the key is putting lot of bs
is your solution still blue after having used it or has it turned green? mine all start blue but once i try to plate things it turns greenish,,,also you will never get copper to plate on aluminium,,it needs to be nickle plated first then copper and aluminium is very difficult to plate even with nickle,,the copper will probably wipe right off
This man is trying to teach your ass something. Shut up and be thankful. Well that came out wrong..........Not really meaning it in a an asshole way, but you know what I'm saying.
tested and it works i used 12v 7amp with a dipping motion, worked better then 6v 0.5amp everyone say so much about that actually burns for some reason :D
Thanks for the Video . Regards from Namibia
exactly the channel ive been looking for. youtube makes it so hard to find the lil guys.
Thanks! I will have more videos soon.
YT biases success and monetized content. Your also limited to certain social circles within the site in order to manage SEO and traffic (these are simple empirical observations as YT will never fully disclose how they manage SEO). The way to circumvent these conditions is to look for users with publicly listed subscriptions/likes/real playlists.
I'm not monetized, so I have nothing to gain in telling you, my subscriptions are publicly listed, as are all of my playlists. I use playlists as a form of notes on things I find helpful and interesting. My playlists are intended for my own personal use, but they are organized alphabetically and cataloged.
I specifically look for small CC's and people that contribute to free and open source projects.
-Jake
BTW Thriftstore Hacker -I just Sub'd ;)
Thanks for subscribing. I have made just under $500 for two years of videos. I don't mess with the AdSense stuff much nor do I care due to UA-cam paying so little. I would really like to make 150k to pay all my debts off and do an outrageous season of videos but unless someone with very deep pockets funds it I don't see it happening. Currently videos are being posted when I get the time to do them. It's a hobby of playing with random junk that I like to share with others and I'm ok with that.
ThriftStore Hacker
I don't hold it against anyone if they want to monetize. It's certainly your right, just like it's everyone's right to choose what they watch. If someone goes crazy with ads I just won't watch unless they are doing something really remarkable.
I was referring to the difficult task of finding people that post first source, nonmonetized content. For instance, Tom W. is on UA-cam and has posted videos about KiCAD software (open source schematic and pcb design software). If someone new to KiCAD searches on YT for info or tutorials, the results are dominated by CC's that have monetized content. However, it took ages before I came across Tom's posts. Tom is one of the 3 software developers that work for CERN (European Nuclear Energy Program) and were tasked with improving KiCAD. His uploads aren't beginner's tutorials, but they explain the functional aspects that make KiCAD really useful.
That's the kind of stuff that is hard to find. When I see someone that is looking for more advanced content, (usually this is what someone implies when they say they are 'trying to find smaller CC's), I try to reach out because I've experienced a similar frustration.
Personally I see some duality in the utility of UA-cam. I think of YT as both a great source of educational entertainment, and a place to share more advanced interests, like an 'Intellectual Instagram.' The entertainment side is much more monetized and the main demographic target of YT SEO.
That's just my $0.02. My comments weren't intended as a negative opinion of others that chose to monetize, but instead were an observation of the difficulty of finding some of the best sources available due to the inherent bias necessary for successful CC's, and a successful site in general.
-Jake
I’m
I know from welding zinc, when you try to remove the zinc with a Tiger Paw or a Flapper disc, the zinc is removed visually but the zinc is still there and you still can't weld to it so you have to use a hard rock gringing disc and really dig into it, to reach the bare metal in order to weld to it, so i would try sand blasting the parts and see if you get better results.
The zinc will take the copper but not too well. Grinding it down to bare metal would help a lot. When I get some more funds I plan on plating a beach cruiser bike for the local steampunk convention. Should be fun.
You'll find that the smoother and shinier that the part is before you start, the nicer the part will be plated afterwards.
what i like is how the parts came out brightly plated,,usually my parts come out with what looks like a matt rusty copper that has to be brushed off but looks brilliant once brushed off
My question too. Have tried this with copper sulphate too and had the same issue.
@@LEO-xo9cz i think the first few minutes it gives a nice shiny coat but if left longer it goes into mud ,,each exp was different and i dont remember ,been a while
@@ARCSTREAMS What amperage are you using?
@@LEO-xo9cz i was using an adapter and they vary from .5 A to more or less and i used resistor to have lower setting
That’s usually because of too high voltage.
Now this is what I'm talking about very well done man 🤩👍
Zinc plate on top of the copper layer then heat it and you get a brass plating. the "lead" weights on wheels nowadays tend to be zinc.
The only drawback is that on the copper electrode a greenish-blue non-conductive layer grows during the electoplating. It is copper hydroxide (patina), which can be dissolved by vinegar, or scraped with steel wool. The latter is time-consuming and very exhausting.
Interesting, does it turn back into elemental copper or does it dissolve in the vinegar as copper acetate? Or both??
Thankyou i need to cover solder barks on copper will give a go
Nice video. Simple and direct. I'm from Malaysia btw and I will not post in my language. Too much of a trouble for you to translate it lol.
Rusdhi Mohamad Thank you for posting in English. Google translate can only do so much. Lol.
Hi, how to plate silver on copper pieces?
Hi dear friend first of all thumbs up for this video so I learned how to do cooper electroplating which is awesome thanks
Ok I have a question about gold plating process any idea that you can share
THANKS
What is the chemical equation of the reaction?
Try using some sandpaper on the electrodes. The water should turn blue when it has copper in it. Did you add some baking soda?
HOW MANY CONCENTRADE BAKING SODA BY WATER AND USING RISAL VOLTAGE ?
If I want to do this to bolts you think I could use just a shot glass to do one bolt at a time
Sir when I was electroplating carbon was depositing on my cathode plate what can be the reason
if that washer was zinc coated then you should not have brushed it off with the dremel,,this is why it did not look so good,i think zinc acts as a good bond for copper juts like nickle which is better
Can you help me with doing nickel coating at home with home essentials like the copper please
I once tried this and found that the smaller the current the better the finish.
Why not use table salt or Epsom salt As electrolyte?
Cooper Sulphate?
Will this work on none metal items that are painted with graphite or conductive paint?
yes
So is it water mixed with baking Soda then put electrical current with copper submerged
Yes.
I thought the HAHa was for his hanger 😂😂😂
the pin on the alligator clips almost always have zinc plate
i still dont know how this seems to be working because its just a water solution with no acid to help strip but it seems to work kinda,maybe your current is high enough thats why?
It will work without acid like vinegar. Already tried it but he forgot one thing is to nickel plate it first to clean out any debris or foreign substance currently in the metal which is why it doesnt completely electroplated and current is kinda low which is why it is slow.
How about lead?
Can you de plate the silver from a hard drive platter and then use that to plate something else?
Maybe, I'm not sure. If you want to see some really cool metal refining videos check out Sreetips channel.
did you pre clean or prep the nickle coin first?
Yes, always do this.
Which wire goes where positive to copper or negative to copper and when you first started what went to what? Did both wires go to copper or did one go to a different metal?
Connect a piece of copper to each wire first, leave it in solution for about 45 minutes, this makes the electrolyte.
Then remove the copper from the negative wire and connect the piece of metal you want to plate.
It's also better to mix baking powder in warm water.
Filtered sea water should work just fine without playing additional chemicals?
Good idea, but I'm 250mi from salt water.
Magnetically attracted metals will coat faster.
3:55 ... NOTHING disturbs science! :-D
It’s nice to know you can do it simple and not use acid ?
A cheap battery charger with 6v & 12v setting will work for power that plugs in.
Used a similar copper zinc thing with a simple food grade acid on a few flint lock's barrels for a flat darker gray very Corrosion restant affect and molton salts passivated most the other steel bits. This Base solution is INTERESTING to "ME"and could have desired knock on effects? Going to try soon on an UGLY Dead parts supper cheap trade 1911 slide
Now if only one of us could come up with an easy way to plate glass with metal films. Let's face it optical grade glass isn't cheap. I've tried things like sputter coating it in a vacuum jar. I've tried chemical processes too. See the thing is, I need first surface mirrors for some optical experiments I've been working on. I've had several lasers over my life from ruby to gass and even a few decent diode lasers. Combining beams is one of those holy grail things in that field. I figured out how to make a decent device but I need first surface mirrors for it to work. I've seen lots of videos about others doing it. I just don't have the same success. The biggest problem is keeping the shop clean. It is by most standards but it's not "clean room" clean. While I can get away with fixing hard drives and working on other optical equipment like when my camera's lense somehow get's that annoying flake of dust on the inside of the lense somehow... The point being that you can mess up the finish if you even breathe on the glass let alone touch it at all. Tricky stuff...
ExStatic Bass sounds like a good idea to experiment with. I will do some reading. Maybe use a lead glass.
You'd think that would work right? It doesn't though. Leaded glass doesn't conduct like we think it should. In fact it takes some pretty high voltage to get anything to pass through it. No, lately I've been experimenting with broken LCD panels. The problem is that they aren't completely coated. They just metalize the contact area for the pixel matrix.
When you vaporize a metal wire with high current in a vacuum, it will coat everything inside with a layer of metal. I forget what its called but basically the metal vapors condense on the surfaces and turns solid.
Another alternative is fire brazing where you paint on a mercury almalgum and then use a torch to burn away the mercury leaving the metal behind.
richard vaughn I have seen this on a few UA-cam videos. I think Cody's Lab or Periodic Videos did it. I will look into trying the method but my funds for projects are very low. If I can find a way to do it cheap I will post it.
ExStatic Bass have you tried the chemical method used to make mirrors? Its something like silver nitrate and an acid of some sort that draws the silver out of solution.
is that a solid copper plate? because it looked like bare white metal when oxidised,,can you simply grind it back to its original finish ,also can this be done using brass or gold necklace to gold plate? will it rub off easly with youir fingers or it depends on how many layers got put on and how long it took?
Im using a copper plate from an old computer. If you keep the plate clean it works better.
yes yes i think i just learned keeping everything clean in the process produces better results,,i have tried on a 9v bat and tried doing a quarter but this gunky stuff built up fast on it and burns and just rubbed off but what i did started noticing is my small alligator clip that was holding the part actually came out looking great after several attempts of doing the quarter,,the clip after cleaning the gunk out actually had a lovely even coat of id say a good amount of microns as its hard to rub off or scratch,it turned out amazing when putting a regular clip next to it,even coated between the small teeth and the small screw on it ,so im puzzled why it worked there but not on the quarter,,im thinking it must be either the plating on the clip or the quarter are different or it could be i did not properly clean the quarter? i never cleaned the clip to begin with so i assume whatever its originally plated with(i guess nickel of some kind) it did the job,but i have to keep trying ,this time im using a small dime and i cleaned it with jewelry cleaner and made it look like a mirror problem is i did not wash it with water but simply wiped it and started the process,hopefully the cleaner wont affect it like skin oils might,also my 9v may have died down to the perfect current right now lol i had no idea how long a batt can last doing this but its slow now with very little bubbles but the dime is getting browned like normal,,but its a learning and exp curve each time ,so just keep at it
@@ARCSTREAMS you may want to clean the coins with vinegar or lemon juice. That should help them plate faster.
i used vinegar and salt last time and i guess i can put some lemon juice or citric acid in there as well,,this time i used a jewelry cleaner and its been in the bath almost 2 hrs now and so far the dime has a nice copper pale coat on it and not some brown dark crapp like before,,so far so good but we shall see,,im still wondering why i failed before with the quarter and yet the clip came out good? could it be the plating finish on the clip has anything to do with it? also does a porous metal surface help? i saw a guy directly copper plating aluminium without any zinc or nickel pre strike
Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)? Surely you mean Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate)? It's cheaper & far more effective...
What is one supposed to do with the blue solution when finished working with it?
Pour it outside in Nature. Metals are from the nature so they are compounds from Nature, that blue color is the same color when coagulated and made sapphire, green one is emerald, ruby red etc... It's gonna become either metal or mineral
I Have Done The Same . With Around 5 V Voltage And Two Copper Electrod Connected With Lead Acid Battry . And Kept The Solution For Around 3 Hours But There Is No Change In Its Colour . Does It Means That The Process Is Not Going Correctly ?
Wait, are you plating in an acid/base?
If not, that means you are just creating a chloride solution, which is quite toxic.
@@neutronpcxt372 hey that's not good I think you may have to many amps is it clear or foggy I did similar and idk what I made it will plate tho just polish it a little after cause it will be black
Ive Made So Much Coper Sulfate That I Made A LOT Of Copper Powder, Like, A LOT !
¿Can you electroform using iron and sodium hydroxide(baking soda)?
S hydroxide is lye
Plating has been around 1000s of years Egypt gold plated some items :-) :-) :-)
Can u electroplate stuff with silver?
Yes, but you need some cyanide :/
Is this solution poisonous like if you were to use vinegar?
I wouldn't drink it because of the copper. I think the only risk with the way I make the solution is hydrogen gas from electrolysis. I'm not a scientist and cannot tell you the full facts.
In order to chrome plate on steel you need to copper plate the steel, then nickel plate the copper and finally chrome plate the nickel. I suggest finding a copy of something like "The players handbook." Be really careful as the chrome solution and rinsed are very hazardous.
A quick question. My first attempt at copper plating steel (or some sort of steel alloy) failed horribly. Then I read or saw that in order to copper plate steel it needed to be nickel plated first. I since have ordered a nickel anode to use, going on that bit of information. Then I see another vid of someone copper plating a steel hammer with no need for nickel. What am I missing and what am I doing wrong? What I am trying to plate is a float bowl off of a generator that rust bigtime on the inside when generator is dormant.(rust then plugs the main jet and generator will not run) Whatever alloy is it... magnets stick to it... so it certainly has an iron content. When I did the plating procedure it all looked like it was doing just fine...….. turning the float bowl a dark red. Taken out of solution an wiping it down... ALL of the red wiped off. Zero plating. Id appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. Thanks...
I honestly haven't got this completely figured out yet and plan to release another video this month. One thing I have noticed, if you use very low voltage and amperage and go really slow the results are much better.
If I remember correctly the E_0 of Cu is around 0.54 V. I don't think that voltage affects the rate, but current does. So theoretically, you could do this with just one triple a battery.
Thanks for the info. I may take another run at this project next week.
@@ThriftStoreHacker thanks for responding on such an old video! good to see that you are very engaged with your viewers. I just subscribed and i hope to see the video soon! cheers.
Have you tried to Silver Plate using this electrolysis process
No, but I will look into it. May require stronger chemicals.
does this work with brass instead of copper? I want to coat a steel object in brass
I don't think you call electroplate brass because it's an alloy.
You can plate copper and then plate zinc on top and you will end up with a brass
Would this work for brass since it's partially made of copper?
Shunkawakan Okawingha I'm not sure. I have so many questions on this video about plating I guess I have to revisit it soon. If you try let me know your results.
Brass is typically copper-zinc alloy, you'll need an electrolyte solution that'll be compatible with both metals
I've used pre-1982 pennies as my copper source for plating. I think it's a copper-zinc alloy? The zinc will not plate out as it's more reactive than hydrogen and will stay in solution.
You can plate copper and then plate zinc and you will get brass
Could we use copper wire for electrode ?
Yes
sir, can i used brass plate or bronze plate in this procedure?
roger cada I'm not sure. Try it out and let me know :)
No brass and bronze are alloys, you will pull out the zinc or copper from the brass or tin and copper from the bronze
I had the same issue.
Shouldn't bubbles be coming off the copper bar ..? I don't know for sure, so?
If you get the perfect voltage/amperage you won't have many bubbles. More power, more bubbles.
@@ThriftStoreHacker thanks I have been meaning to try it. I pound copper and I use Nitric Acid to clean up the fire scale after annealing. It never accured to me to save the "wash".
Also thanks for getting back, I know now that I am not 86ed, from UA-cam.
It's nice that you share neet stuff.
Nickel plate first, then copper plate.
Is it that process which makes the copper so much warmer in colour?
Is that best in your experience?
got anything better to suggest?
That is way I was surprised that the copper was not taking to the washer he thought was nickel.
If you don't want to burn through batteries, go look for an old power supply next time you're in a thrift store. Most of them will only run 4/5 volts, and they're already DC, so you can "plug and play".
maybe try adding some kind of acid to it like even vinegar would help
from my understanding, alkaline solutions can work better for shine and evenness on the right choice of metals.
@@kiaas give example of an alkaline solution for this
@@ARCSTREAMS bases such as baking soda for one, washing soda is a bit stronger. I'm not sure what else is suited for plating.
@@kiaas ok but i always thought you need some acid to get this thing going so it helps strip the metal ,also peroxide acts like a catalyst to help create the electrolyte solution but i never seen water and bs alone,,funny his water color is blue mine is usually always turning green but it works
@@ARCSTREAMS bases (which make alkaline solutions) do the same thing as acids, in this regard. Chemistry isn't my forte, but both acids and bases can be used to make soluble compounds that'll plate metals, as both can be Corrosive. vinegar will make copper acetate and baking soda will make basic copper carbonate, as the copper-bearing electrolyte here. They'll have different oxidation states on the copper so different colors.
....Using Root Killer is a way faster method I find is better!
I though an acid was better?
Do you really expect Harbor Freight batteries to do anything?
You need more current.
The jar is the glass one
Well there was me thinking it was cement
I always fail, the cathode gets super dark but never shiny even when I polish it afterwards. Anyone can advise the noob I am?
Try lowering the voltage. Should help.
Try to use a lower voltage source, like 1,50-3,3V.
@@neutronpcxt372 Thanks I will try that
@@chongtak Yeah. Otherwise, you are going to make making copper oxide, which can't dissolve in basic solutions.
Try the flower pot method look on yt for it
have you tried plating ss with this solution?
Yes .plz tell mee how to do copper plating on statue? ?
who said anything about statue?
@@ARCSTREAMS don't plate stainless steel the electricity will leech the chromium out of the stainless and will be floating around in your water. When you stick your little hand in there to retrieve it you'll be getting a dose of heavy metal poisoning( not talking about Motley Crue) and then you'll be sick.
i appreciate your concern but not so sure what you are saying is really that credible and hazardous ,,also as a welder of SS there is more danger there from the fumes i breath at work than doing this ,but we wear masks ,gloves and have over head vacuum ventilation
Is it poiseness
No, it is not poisonous.
how long did it take to get blue? i tried with bs and water and nothing happens,,i also tried with salt and vinegar but after 30 min i do not see any change ,however once i put a few drops of hydrogen peroxide it activates the blue color and starts?
It took about 45min to make the solution. Im currently working on a new video with the whole process to clarify any issues
well can you clarify the one i just said?
@@ARCSTREAMS It took me about 2 hours before the solution went a bit blue.
If you want faster results, use copper electrodes with bigger surface area, meaning wire will work very well, and a higher volume of water.
Otherwise, you may get metallic copper deposit on the cathode, and WILL contaminate the solution.
what do you mean it will contaminate? if its copper to copper i dont understand why there would contamination
@@ARCSTREAMS Too fast oxidation will actually create metallic copper(Cu3+, or even Cu4+ if current is stupid high), which is an oxide.
The copper we want to be plated is Cu2+, and the production of Cu3+ on the cathode will result in a thin black coating on the copper, making the plating very thin and fragile.
Will Aluminim also plate
Abri Van Wyk I don't know. I will look into it.
do you have a simple method to make a gold plating solution?
I don't. I think Codys Lab has done a few videos on gold plating.
yeah but he uses a few chems that are hard to get a hold of and im looking to see if there is an easier way and less harmful using things you find around the house ,,i can still get muratic acid and amonia etc but hcl and sulfuric or nitric acid is just too much bother,,surely there must be a simpler solution that can strip the gold off some bracelet i can use but i need to research more ,not like i can juts mess around with gold like its a disposable metal lol ,,say what about gold bond? lol
@@ARCSTREAMS You can always try a different method.
Plasma Coating
ua-cam.com/video/EMzRZ4gXQ-0/v-deo.html
However this is just as hard and dangerous...
@@ARCSTREAMS sulfuric acid = battery acid, go to a battery store, they'l sell it ...
@@KeesHessels you sure because 100% sulfuric acid burns metal
electroplating forming into a mold
try welder at low amperage, like 20A
Dude the Baghdad Battery is about 2000 years old.
Yeah, I couldn't recall how old it was so I went with hundreds to be safe. It's just a lot of hundreds.
Ya ya dont need fans ya just need an open window hydrogen evaporates at almost 22 metres per second....
A 50/50 mix of vinagar and Hydrogen peroxide works much better.
I will try that. Thanks.
Does a copper plate cuts( reduces the lighting) light of torch lighter
i dont see how copper was striped in your solution which has no acid in it? it dont matter about the current,,water and sodium bicarbonate will make an electrolyte but wont strip
I have been trying to recreate this solution today and not getting much luck. I wonder if the bits of pipe im using are not pure enough copper, or too old of baking soda, or something in my water supply is throwing it off. I tried adding vinegar but it just reacts with the baking soda and bubbles. Kinda driving me crazy but i will figure it out.
*headdesk*
yeah sometimes getting these solutions to work is tricky,i made a Ni solution and it was green which tells me it worked but when i tried plating a copper penny it did nothing but bubbles,,idk what i did or did not do but eventually it worked and started plating the penny ,,but mixing bs and vinegar will neutralize the solution,idk why ppl do that for? you need an acidic solution for it to work,idk how your bs worked last time,maybe because there was some salt in the bs which helped and you used lots of it,,,im going nuts now trying to copper plate this metal cross i made a long time ago,i striped it down to bare metal and Ni plated it and then Cu plated it,unfortunately it did not plate 100% there were small patches ,i had to redo it over several times and for some reasons the patch areas are not bonding with the Cu,pissing me off and driving me nuts as to why? but the Cu platting looks nice and thick when i looked at the edge of those patches with my magnifying glass i can see a pretty solid thick coat edge of the Cu
@@ARCSTREAMS hey! I figured out how to make the solution. Use a lot of baking soda. I put the two copper plates in water and added baking soda until the plates started lightly bubbling. After about an hour of running on my usb powered setup the solution started turning blue! Im currently waiting for any excess soda to settle in the bottom of the jar and will pour off the solution into a fresh container to plate with. I will try to put out a video tomorrow.
glad to hear it worked for you,i tried it for an hour and saw no discernible color change ,how much bs did you use? according to the poster he says the key is putting lot of bs
is your solution still blue after having used it or has it turned green? mine all start blue but once i try to plate things it turns greenish,,,also you will never get copper to plate on aluminium,,it needs to be nickle plated first then copper and aluminium is very difficult to plate even with nickle,,the copper will probably wipe right off
so you are only using BS( a base) and no acid solution? how is the copper stripping off the plates and going into the solution then??
I assume the electrical charge is stripping the copper off into the solution.
yeah i guess so,,but usually they use acidic solutions and i think its because it helps strip better or make a better conductive electrolyte
baking soda is a base, you need an acid
Lets test that goggle translate :))
Habla vous deutch ?
Your Spanish, French, German angers the translator. LOL Speaks you German!
spanish french and german??
5:50. I'm sure I've read that Copper is the best substrate for Nickel Plating. That's odd.
WHY THE WATER IS BLUE
Watch video between 2min and 3min. The water contains copper from running power through the solution with two copper electrodes.
@@ThriftStoreHacker Hah, thanks, I do not understand pretty well everything. Hi from Serbia great clip
This video could be done in 1 minute
Buddy you could have used copper sulphate you would have the results in maximum 2 minutes
I have done it both ways. This is just a more DIY way to do it with random junk.
@@ThriftStoreHacker can you make a video on homemade pyrotechnics plz
what 's the blue color water , what ingredient has been mixed ?
Glance Khan the blue color is the copper in the water.
36,169 views um um
Im amazed it has this many views. I guess i should revisit this video and do some updates.
steel needs to be plated with zinc before it will take copper
ha ha. text
Dude get on with it stop repeating yourself you're talking way too much just explain to us how to do it and move along
This man is trying to teach your ass something. Shut up and be thankful.
Well that came out wrong..........Not really meaning it in a an asshole way, but you know what I'm saying.
You're easy to please because it doesn't look 'nice', it looks like crap!
Sorry But The Commentary IS SO BORING