Pro Tipp: Constant Current works better then Constant Voltage and low Current takes longer, yes but it will be more even and precise. I do Nickelplating for a living. And no i can´t plate your parts because I am not allowed to take any random stuff, we dont do that. We plate grinding tools for CNC-Precisiongrinding. As pointed out in the Video for best Results Clean Parts are the most difficult part of the plating.
@@bittech1 set the voltage higher and then set the current limit and the power supply will adjust the voltage down to whatever is necessary to maintain the current. If the voltage is limited and isn't high enough to push the set current, it'll just maintain the voltage at a lower current. It all comes down to the resistance of the electrodes/electrolyte. The higher the resistance, the more voltage you need for a particular current and vice versa
A lot of the talk about experimenting and “you might want to try” wouldn’t be necessary if you use current control of the plating. mA per square mm remains a constant if you want reproducible results with varying conductivity or concentration of solution. You power supply has that feature. This has been a very good introduction to plating, thanks.
Two suggestions: 1) Plating isn't about voltage, it's about current. 2) Always use magnetic stirring, or put multiple sacrificial electrodes at different locations, otherwise the plating WILL be uneven.
Reading your comment figured out you know aot about chrome plating, I want to chrome plate copper pipe about a Metre in length. How do I go about doing it
Timestamps since this is a long boi: 00:33 - Intro 02:30 - Materials 06:30 - Making the Electrolyte 12:50 - Cleaning 14:56 - Acid Pickle 16:54 - Plating Intro 18:33 - Plating Method 23:30 - Final Thoughts
Ami not right in thinking there are extreme dangers if someone tries stainless steel? If the electrodes go around the wrong way do you not get toxic gasses? Might need a warning about that.
@@sonoflysystrata2 Alex, the presenter, had warned about the matter; at the introduction about performing the experiment at a highly ventilated area. Common sense depicts the fact.
Thank you for sharing your video , I really enjoyed it, I restore vintage carpenters plane's and vintage tools , so I wanted to try out some nickel plating, I will try it out a few times on less important things first just to get the hang of it, best wishes from a vintage Carpenter.
Great video, very thorough instructions and good pacing. You may want to add that nickel compounds are carcinogenic so gloves might be good idea even before you get to the acid.
@@eliwohl8734 Nickel is way too heavy and stable as an atom to leave in the form of vapours, the only vapour you are smelling is the acetic acid from the vinager
It's also illegal pretty much everywhere to 'pour it down the drain' if you find you don't want to store solution as it's toxic waste. I've been told it's also pretty easy to find source of contamination back to exact house and courts like to 'set an example' so fines can be quite high.. Where I used to live there was a Rexel plant about 4 miles away. I knew a plater there who said they would dump waste into river, pay fine and re-stock with fish every few years as it was still cheaper than paying for correct treatment and disposal. I'm guessing someone in local government found out or courts did some research as the fines got much much higher the 4th or 5th time they ended up in court (something like £2,000 initially to around £20,000 before plant closed down in 1990's)
Thank you! I recycle household plastic containers for plating/anodizing. Glass breaks too easily. Anything HDPE, which has the #2 recycling arrow. An under bed storage tub fits very large items😎
I really liked your video!! Im into restoring an old motorcycle and one thing i want to do is to nikel plate some of it's screws, so this comes really handy to see. Thanks!
Was staring and the bit-tech logo when I realize the 0's and 1's in the logo are 16 binary bits that gives you a HEX code of 554B which in turn converted to ASCII characters "UK"
sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow forgot the login password. I love any tips you can give me
@Raylan Camden i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
For even better results you could try and find a big ring or even a hollow cylinder of nickel as the anode which could help with a more even finish and the shadows you mentioned
Using a aeration device like the ones that make bubbles in the fish tank, but only the air tube only. This will keep the solution moving. Or using the they stir pad you mentioned? Although you didn't use it in the Nickel Plating process.
I am not sure if I missed the beginning but cleaning a simple bolt, remove paint, wire wheel and run a thread tap over it once as thread gain a very tiny amount I guess like 0.003" but many bolts have rolled threads that make them thick. A tap, cute threads and are loose. Thoughts? Thanks! DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired. (Note; I do like the "Yellow Chromate Conversion" that required a good zinc plate as the truck is a 1967 for fasteners and other items to plate. Thanks again!
Great video, but at point 21:00, your supply shows no current. Is it even on at that point? Also, you keep talking about voltage, but isn't it the current that matters? When I tried this, with a fixed voltage, the current varied greatly just by moving the pierced close to each other.
I did high chrome plating for 10 years there is a lot of little tricks but there's not too much you can do to avoid thicker quantities of your plating materials towards the end or corners of the work you're trying plate covering the ends of material your trying to plate with aluminium or lead tape will bleed off excess copper nickel Chrome whatever the solution you're working with.
@@googlefirstnanegooglelastn1203 I'd like to have a visual of what you're talking about, using aluminum or lead tape, I don't quite understand how this would be done.
23:59 seems this is how gold plating is done. First copper, then nickel, then the gold sticks to it perfectly. However, nickel became unpopular for jewelry. Nickel allergy is a common cause of allergic contact dermatitis - an itchy rash that appears where your skin touches a usually harmless substance. Nickel allergy is often associated with earrings and other jewelry. So I don't know what happens when gold is plated upon nickel if this still is bad for the skin?
I just found out about your channel some days ago and man, you are so talented! I'm learning a lot and loving your explanations on basically everything you do. Probably won't ever do any of them because I lack the skills but you rock!
Ah! A fellow American. We all lack skills. How do you build skills? 🤔 You gotta start somewhere, don't you? Nobody ever started off as an expert in anything. Even this guy started off as a beginner at some point.
Thought of using a round nickel disc in the base connected to your thin (high surface area) anode pieces? This would ensure fragments continue to be conductive.
Thank you sir. How about the nickel ingot sir, can use to anode and cathode to make a solution. And can you tell me what is the use of nickel ingot? Thank you
@@jhorossposter5893 Nickel is used as the "sacrificial item".... that gives off metal ions that are then plated onto the item you want to plate (the brass or copper in this case). My suggestion is to ensure a high degree of free nickel ion presence and to ensure that as the thin nickel pieces break apart they still remain electrically connected as the anode.
Might want to explain one reason for wearing gloves aside from messing with chemicals is to keep fingerprints from depositing on the part. My understanding is they will easily show up on the finished part. It shouldn't be an issue due to cleaning before plating but it's cheap insurance.
I am interested in electroplating a design that's been etched. Would leaving my toner on the initial part keep the nickel from adhering to the sections I desire to remain brass, or would I be better off just sanding the nickel off? My main concern with option two is that it may cause flaking.
No expert, just curious, what did you do? I guess etching fluid is way more aggressive than this so the toner would work? Or Nail polish, remove with acetone afterwards? I don't think you can easily remove the layer after it is plated.
Thanks for nice education. Do you know what kind of material I can use that doesn't react and interfere with the solution. I want to hang down thick pieces of nickel in the bath and I guess copper-wire will interfere with the nickel solution.
Question... Ran the process to create an acetate similar to above. About 300ml household vinegar. Half tsp table salt, fully dissolved. DC power set to 20v/4amp. Cathode/Anode 25×100×1mm. Came back about an hour later. Cathode almost completely dissolved. Solution is clear, *not green*. Bottom of jar filled with dendrites.
Right. He could have built a "basket" of the thin nickel anodes connected by a copper ring at the top rim. Platimg a coin or something would be a bit redundant with a 360° anodes but that could easily be changed for the part.
@21:00 why was the current zero? the meters look like they have milliamp resolution, less than 1mA over what must be several square centimeters seems very low for many plating operations. I can imagine that on a cheap supply the last digit might be fake, but less than 10mA is not much either.
I was thinking the same thing. In fact I have the same power supply and just checked it across a 400 ohm resistor. With the current set to 1-milliamp (0.001 amps) and the voltage cranked up over 3 volts the power supply enters constant current mode and, indeed, does display 0.001 amps... at 1.8 volts average, once it warmed up ( it bounces around a bit, +/- 0.15v). Was 2.35 volts when first turned on. So, the last digit does work. Well, it read out a number, which can be set. A quick bit of ohms-law math reveals the current displayed is in error by ~400% (current x resistance = volts, .001 amps x 400 ohms = 0.4 volts; I'm reading a voltage almost 5 times higher). The actual current is 0.004 amps (4 milliamps, not 1 milliamp). The resistor is actually 466 ohms. And the actual volts are 1.81 average. So the volts reads out good. I would like to see what the voltage goes to with the volts set to 32v and the current set to 0.001 amps. Time to open up the power supply and see if it can be calibrated. Edit: No calibration potentiometers inside. Looks to be firmware calibration only. I did check the error at higher current and the error in the current display seems to be consistant. It's reads 3-millamps low at 1-milliamp set, and 2.5 milliamps low at 400-milliamps set. So that's only a 0.6% error at 400 milliamps. Very acceptable.
Could you use a PC power supply for the plating process? They have 12V and 5V rail, so you could use the 12V to set up the solution and the 5V for the plating itself...
Power supply is any thing that supplies power. Alex the presenter , spoke about this briefly at the introductory opening lecture. He said you could also use a phone charger also. You need to watch the segment many times to understand. Take care and be safe.
Hi id like your imput on nickel plating the inside of a motor cycle steel petrol tank ? Older classic bikes often suffer with rust from the ethenol in newer fuels and old fuel being left for long periods of time. ,obviously the rust will be removed first .all the best bob
Maybe a daft question, but can you use a car battery charger for a power source? Excellent tutorial as well. I'm just a retired hobbyist restoring things like storm lanterns etc
Yes, many people use a battery charger at 6 volts although lower voltages can and are often used. Amperage is the important thing though, there are formula's of amperage needed for surface area being plated, it won't be adjustable using battery charger. I don't think it's possible to use a modern automatic 'smart' battery charger, you need the old style 'dumb' ones which often have a high and low charge rate.
I have been trying to find out about Nickel plating, and most have been wannabe 16 yr old ****holes without a clue- so refreshing to find someone with actual knowledge of doing this process. Many Thanks, I am now going to go through all your vids to see what else I can gleen at the ripe old age of 75! btw jus ordered some Chinesium nickel from the usual reprobates in the sub continent, and a mixer ma toatsies Rabbit stirrer from Mr bezos himself! Ta fella!
I imagine you could reduce the risk of shadows (especially when plating complex geometries) by using more than one anode placed around the rim of your electroplating bath, so that all parts of it are "illuminated" equally
He could use multiple rods with 3D printed holders just like the one he uses, and connect them all with copper wire. It would allow customizable configurations for more complex parts and would be easy to do.
I used a car battery and the thin strips of nickel to make the solution. I have a charger for the car battery but its one of those roll around kind and takes up a lot of room at the bench, so the battery is easier for me. Stripped a old charging wire to hang things from and used a paper coffee filter for the bits. I think in total I spent something like $15 for the vinegar and strips to make the solution. For the container I just used the plastic vinegar jug. Cut a slit in the bottom side and put one strip in it. Filled with hit glue to seal it. In the top side I made a window for a nickel strip mesh I made and lowered it in. The battery connections hold nicely because one can rest on the bottom of a bowl I put the jug in (just in case) and the other clips the plastic and anode up top.
the anode (not the thin nickel anodes), the round one that you used when you started electroplating. The one that looked like it was ade to hang on the lip of a beaker. Where can i find those, what is the manufacturer, what material was it made from, and how much are they?
Very interesting and informative explanation of the process. Well done. Have you tried using citric acid for pickling? I use it for cleaning up small parts after silver soldering to remove residues. Any thoughts please?
Very Interesteresting. !! In some case I need to block a certain area in one peace of metal from being plated. Such as motorbike exhaust pipe, how to do this efficiently?
I've been using the same solution for months now, by using a nickel anode you are constantly replenishing the nickel, my concentration has gone from "Gatorade to Emerald, and plating time has been cut in half...caution, I plate onto copper, never introduce ANY other metals into your solution because contamination will ruin the batch. Keep a lid on it and it'll last indefinitely.
I have followed the instructions, but when it came to the actual plating bit, all I got was a brownish sludge attached to the cathode ( item being plated). What am I doing wrong?
Very informative and interesting. I am a hobbyist. I would greately appreciate if you could share how Nickel Foam coating can be done on steel plates? I guess the process would be more or less the same.
Very good tutorial. I notice you use 5% (food grade) vinegar here. Is it better or worse to use a higher concentration? I usually get hold of 35% (meant as cleaner) where I live.
Thanks for the informative video it sorts a lot of potential problems out. I have a question that you may be able to help with. I need to brass plate some small plastic model parts, obviously I need to paint with a conductive coating first. Do I need to copper plate, then nickel plate before I brass plate. Your advice will be appreciated. Thanks, Chris.
hello will this work for zamak? i have a firearm wich has some parts in zamak such as trigger hammer and other small parts lately I've noticed that those parts have become very dull in color and im wondering if i can plate them in nickel to get that beautiful shine back
Im trying to coat old bolts have soaked them in vinegar and removed the rust and ultrasonic cleaned them and then picked them but rust appears after would wax n grease remover or methylated spirits instead of distilled water it makes it rust
Hi, any idea on how to estimate the amount of materials required for a particular surface area? Or I suppose, how do you know when the plating solution is exhausted?
I've never added salt to my solution. What I do use is canning vinegar or the 5% acetic acid. It seems to start plating nickel almost immediately without turning the blueish green color. Using 5 volts and polishing the parts to a mirror finish beforehand leads to the best results, don't forget to degrease the part before dropping into solution.
Are there alternatives to the HCL acid, like acetone etc. for cleaning? I am just uncomfortable with keeping strong acid around. Thank you for the video!
Acetone is good for cleaning oils, grease, and dirt, but you need an acid to remove oxidation. You could consider citric acid if you want something more gentle to activate your surface.
i have made 2 nickle solutions seperatly Yet both have come out beetrooty colour def not green everyone has? using vinegar and salt as shown. is it perhaps volt/amps too high /low, i,m using a fully adjustable unit thanks for your input , Al
I made a batch of about 1 gallon of nickle solution but it's not working so good, seems like it won't coat the bolts..I've tried different voltage, acid bath parts..but doesn't seem to transfer to the parts,,any advice on what to check?
Whoa! Did you manage that? One comment mentioned “brush plating.” I know nothing but would love to hear what you found out about that. I presume that you would need to remove all prior rust first.
25:01 Small Correction: Stainless steel must be Nickel plated prior to Copper plating - contrary to what you said. This is because iron (steel) and copper are quite far away on the reactivity series. Thus Nickel plating is used as an intermediary step.
So I'm thinking of doing this for some older game consoles so as that their stock aluminum cooling blocks can use liquid metal to interface with the IHS. Will this nickel plating process work with aluminum heat sinks?
I really want to do this to the drinking water faucet I have to match my polished nickel plated kitchen faucet, but I'm super worried this isn't going to work because I am having a hard figuring out the interior of this faucet since it has a TDS display screen in the body of th faucet. Hoping someone else here has done something similar.
Great video, very thorough. Would this work for silver plating? And how would you go about only plating part of it, for example if you had a bronze skull with horns and you only wanted to plate the horns is there something you can use to prevent the rest of it from plating?
Just mask off parts you do not want plated. Either keep only the horns in the plating solution, or simply mask them off with say a coat of something like plasti dip or even spray paint.
great vid, just to point out at 25:13 you misspoke and just got the order backwards. To coat stainless steel in copper you must first plate it in nickel. Copper will not adhere to stainless steel without the base coat of nickel not the other way around
Nope, the biggest expense by far is a DC power supply if you want full control, everything else is very affordable. Even then, you can use an old phone charger much of the time as they operate usually within 5V. Best bit is once you've made the electrolyte, you can keep it around and plate at will.
Pro Tipp: Constant Current works better then Constant Voltage and low Current takes longer, yes but it will be more even and precise. I do Nickelplating for a living. And no i can´t plate your parts because I am not allowed to take any random stuff, we dont do that. We plate grinding tools for CNC-Precisiongrinding. As pointed out in the Video for best Results Clean Parts are the most difficult part of the plating.
Martin Brieger That’s a handy point. I had hoped to do exactly that but it seems the unit I chose is voltage controlled rather than current :/
@@bittech1 set the voltage higher and then set the current limit and the power supply will adjust the voltage down to whatever is necessary to maintain the current. If the voltage is limited and isn't high enough to push the set current, it'll just maintain the voltage at a lower current. It all comes down to the resistance of the electrodes/electrolyte. The higher the resistance, the more voltage you need for a particular current and vice versa
@@bittech1 as @Jamie Foster pointed out, solution is crank the voltage up as high as possible and just set the current as high as you want.
Do you have a recommended device ?
I need some help I do that for living to iam Egyptian and I need help alot please
A lot of the talk about experimenting and “you might want to try” wouldn’t be necessary if you use current control of the plating. mA per square mm remains a constant if you want reproducible results with varying conductivity or concentration of solution. You power supply has that feature. This has been a very good introduction to plating, thanks.
Two suggestions: 1) Plating isn't about voltage, it's about current. 2) Always use magnetic stirring, or put multiple sacrificial electrodes at different locations, otherwise the plating WILL be uneven.
Reading your comment figured out you know aot about chrome plating, I want to chrome plate copper pipe about a Metre in length. How do I go about doing it
you actually dont need any current. Caswell has a new electroless way of plating. it works.
Timestamps since this is a long boi:
00:33 - Intro
02:30 - Materials
06:30 - Making the Electrolyte
12:50 - Cleaning
14:56 - Acid Pickle
16:54 - Plating Intro
18:33 - Plating Method
23:30 - Final Thoughts
If you put them in the description youtube will automatically display them in the "progressbar"
@@janek-96 Yes, IF the timestamps start at 00:00.
Add these time stamps into the description a long wit 0:00 and take advantage of the time line chapter functionality youtube has
Ami not right in thinking there are extreme dangers if someone tries stainless steel? If the electrodes go around the wrong way do you not get toxic gasses? Might need a warning about that.
@@sonoflysystrata2 Alex, the presenter, had warned about the matter; at the introduction about performing the experiment at a highly ventilated area. Common sense depicts the fact.
Thank you for sharing your video , I really enjoyed it, I restore vintage carpenters plane's and vintage tools , so I wanted to try out some nickel plating, I will try it out a few times on less important things first just to get the hang of it, best wishes from a vintage Carpenter.
Great video, very thorough instructions and good pacing. You may want to add that nickel compounds are carcinogenic so gloves might be good idea even before you get to the acid.
How about a mask for the vapors?
@@eliwohl8734 Nickel is way too heavy and stable as an atom to leave in the form of vapours, the only vapour you are smelling is the acetic acid from the vinager
It's also illegal pretty much everywhere to 'pour it down the drain' if you find you don't want to store solution as it's toxic waste.
I've been told it's also pretty easy to find source of contamination back to exact house and courts like to 'set an example' so fines can be quite high..
Where I used to live there was a Rexel plant about 4 miles away. I knew a plater there who said they would dump waste into river, pay fine and re-stock with fish every few years as it was still cheaper than paying for correct treatment and disposal.
I'm guessing someone in local government found out or courts did some research as the fines got much much higher the 4th or 5th time they ended up in court (something like £2,000 initially to around £20,000 before plant closed down in 1990's)
Thank you!
I recycle household plastic containers for plating/anodizing. Glass breaks too easily. Anything HDPE, which has the #2 recycling arrow. An under bed storage tub fits very large items😎
This is the best plating tutorial on the net.
i could not stop staring at this mans mustache, it is BEAUTIFUL.
I really liked your video!! Im into restoring an old motorcycle and one thing i want to do is to nikel plate some of it's screws, so this comes really handy to see.
Thanks!
In planting process what kind of anode matarial use
In this situation nickel must be used. You must use the same material that the plating fluid is saturated with.
Was staring and the bit-tech logo when I realize the 0's and 1's in the logo are 16 binary bits that gives you a HEX code of 554B which in turn converted to ASCII characters "UK"
Bravo.
sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot the login password. I love any tips you can give me
@Reuben Justice Instablaster :)
@Raylan Camden i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Raylan Camden It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
For even better results you could try and find a big ring or even a hollow cylinder of nickel as the anode which could help with a more even finish and the shadows you mentioned
Definitely the best UA-cam video on this subject that I've seen...and I've seen a lot of them!
Using a aeration device like the ones that make bubbles in the fish tank, but only the air tube only. This will keep the solution moving. Or using the they stir pad you mentioned? Although you didn't use it in the Nickel Plating process.
At 7:24, you inadvertently played the first few notes of "Mary Had a Little Lamb" when you tapped the beaker with the nickel.
How would the acidic content of the vinegar effect the process?
I am not sure if I missed the beginning but cleaning a simple bolt, remove paint, wire wheel and run a thread tap over it once as thread gain a very tiny amount I guess like 0.003" but many bolts have rolled threads that make them thick. A tap, cute threads and are loose. Thoughts? Thanks!
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
(Note; I do like the "Yellow Chromate Conversion" that required a good zinc plate as the truck is a 1967 for fasteners and other items to plate. Thanks again!
Great video, but at point 21:00, your supply shows no current. Is it even on at that point?
Also, you keep talking about voltage, but isn't it the current that matters? When I tried this, with a fixed voltage, the current varied greatly just by moving the pierced close to each other.
Electroplating sure is easy, but getting an uniform surface finish can be pretty hard. I'm exited to see your results!
E5
I did high chrome plating for 10 years there is a lot of little tricks but there's not too much you can do to avoid thicker quantities of your plating materials towards the end or corners of the work you're trying plate covering the ends of material your trying to plate with aluminium or lead tape will bleed off excess copper nickel Chrome whatever the solution you're working with.
@@googlefirstnanegooglelastn1203 I'd like to have a visual of what you're talking about, using aluminum or lead tape, I don't quite understand how this would be done.
Thanks for taking the time to explain how to plate.
Instant subcription. You made the process clear as mud for a beginner like me. Can't wait to have more time to check out your other videos.
23:59 seems this is how gold plating is done. First copper, then nickel, then the gold sticks to it perfectly. However, nickel became unpopular for jewelry. Nickel allergy is a common cause of allergic contact dermatitis - an itchy rash that appears where your skin touches a usually harmless substance. Nickel allergy is often associated with earrings and other jewelry. So I don't know what happens when gold is plated upon nickel if this still is bad for the skin?
Hello. Does the acidity of the vinegar play a role? I have normals with about 5% acidity and essence with 25% acidity.
I just found this. Yes old video but kudos, I love the attention to detail and I subscribed because of this vid.
Did you ever get to try brighteners with this solution?
The best plating instructional vid on youtube. Thank you for all the great detail!!
by far the best video on the subject - thank you
I just found out about your channel some days ago and man, you are so talented! I'm learning a lot and loving your explanations on basically everything you do. Probably won't ever do any of them because I lack the skills but you rock!
Ah! A fellow American. We all lack skills. How do you build skills? 🤔
You gotta start somewhere, don't you? Nobody ever started off as an expert in anything. Even this guy started off as a beginner at some point.
Yaaas I can finally nickel electroplate at home! I’ve always wanted to do this.
You can also use this as a basis for brush plating btw, I didn't cover it in the vid for the sake of sanity though.
@@bittech1 Hey mate why didn't you made a GPU block though? I have been waiting for that kind of video forever 😆
"Whatever pH that is in there...."
A true mastery of the GSE, this one.
Hi, can we electroplating very very thick until it is like metal rod itself ?
Thought of using a round nickel disc in the base connected to your thin (high surface area) anode pieces? This would ensure fragments continue to be conductive.
Thank you sir. How about the nickel ingot sir, can use to anode and cathode to make a solution. And can you tell me what is the use of nickel ingot? Thank you
@@jhorossposter5893 Nickel is used as the "sacrificial item".... that gives off metal ions that are then plated onto the item you want to plate (the brass or copper in this case).
My suggestion is to ensure a high degree of free nickel ion presence and to ensure that as the thin nickel pieces break apart they still remain electrically connected as the anode.
Might want to explain one reason for wearing gloves aside from messing with chemicals is to keep fingerprints from depositing on the part. My understanding is they will easily show up on the finished part. It shouldn't be an issue due to cleaning before plating but it's cheap insurance.
I am interested in electroplating a design that's been etched. Would leaving my toner on the initial part keep the nickel from adhering to the sections I desire to remain brass, or would I be better off just sanding the nickel off? My main concern with option two is that it may cause flaking.
No expert, just curious, what did you do? I guess etching fluid is way more aggressive than this so the toner would work? Or Nail polish, remove with acetone afterwards? I don't think you can easily remove the layer after it is plated.
You know this guy knows what he’s talking about with a moustache like that
Thanks for nice education. Do you know what kind of material I can use that doesn't react and interfere with the solution. I want to hang down thick pieces of nickel in the bath and I guess copper-wire will interfere with the nickel solution.
Question... Ran the process to create an acetate similar to above. About 300ml household vinegar. Half tsp table salt, fully dissolved. DC power set to 20v/4amp. Cathode/Anode 25×100×1mm. Came back about an hour later. Cathode almost completely dissolved. Solution is clear, *not green*. Bottom of jar filled with dendrites.
Hi, can you use those nickel plated steel strips for 18650 spot welding as nickel plating electrodes? Thank you
does a 6% solution of acetic acid work as well? That is a lot easier to get ahold of where I live than plain white vinager
Had a thought, what if you used an anode ring with the cathode/part in the center to prevent shadowing?
Right. He could have built a "basket" of the thin nickel anodes connected by a copper ring at the top rim. Platimg a coin or something would be a bit redundant with a 360° anodes but that could easily be changed for the part.
Helo sir, that round bar anode is that a stainless steel? Or what kind of metal is that
Around 7.25 you almost played Mary had a lillle lamb 😊
Cannot be unheard 😅
@21:00 why was the current zero? the meters look like they have milliamp resolution, less than 1mA over what must be several square centimeters seems very low for many plating operations. I can imagine that on a cheap supply the last digit might be fake, but less than 10mA is not much either.
I was thinking the same thing. In fact I have the same power supply and just checked it across a 400 ohm resistor. With the current set to 1-milliamp (0.001 amps) and the voltage cranked up over 3 volts the power supply enters constant current mode and, indeed, does display 0.001 amps... at 1.8 volts average, once it warmed up ( it bounces around a bit, +/- 0.15v). Was 2.35 volts when first turned on.
So, the last digit does work. Well, it read out a number, which can be set. A quick bit of ohms-law math reveals the current displayed is in error by ~400% (current x resistance = volts, .001 amps x 400 ohms = 0.4 volts; I'm reading a voltage almost 5 times higher). The actual current is 0.004 amps (4 milliamps, not 1 milliamp). The resistor is actually 466 ohms. And the actual volts are 1.81 average. So the volts reads out good.
I would like to see what the voltage goes to with the volts set to 32v and the current set to 0.001 amps.
Time to open up the power supply and see if it can be calibrated.
Edit: No calibration potentiometers inside. Looks to be firmware calibration only. I did check the error at higher current and the error in the current display seems to be consistant. It's reads 3-millamps low at 1-milliamp set, and 2.5 milliamps low at 400-milliamps set. So that's only a 0.6% error at 400 milliamps. Very acceptable.
Thanks... Very informative... Well done!
Do you happen to know if steel can be plated onto steel?... Say, to fill in some pitting?
Thanks again...
Is it possible to plate tin with this same process?
nice. can I use this technique for my motorcycle restoration project, with vinger
Could you use a PC power supply for the plating process? They have 12V and 5V rail, so you could use the 12V to set up the solution and the 5V for the plating itself...
Power supply is any thing that supplies power. Alex the presenter , spoke about this briefly at the introductory opening lecture. He said you could also use a phone charger also. You need to watch the segment many times to understand. Take care and be safe.
Hi id like your imput on nickel plating the inside of a motor cycle steel petrol tank ? Older classic bikes often suffer with rust from the ethenol in newer fuels and old fuel being left for long periods of time. ,obviously the rust will be removed first .all the best bob
This video just gave me deja vu, I felt like I was back in 3rd year chemistry lol, love the content.
Maybe a daft question, but can you use a car battery charger for a power source? Excellent tutorial as well. I'm just a retired hobbyist restoring things like storm lanterns etc
Yes, many people use a battery charger at 6 volts although lower voltages can and are often used.
Amperage is the important thing though, there are formula's of amperage needed for surface area being plated, it won't be adjustable using battery charger. I don't think it's possible to use a modern automatic 'smart' battery charger, you need the old style 'dumb' ones which often have a high and low charge rate.
I have been trying to find out about Nickel plating, and most have been wannabe 16 yr old ****holes without a clue- so refreshing to find someone with actual knowledge of doing this process. Many Thanks, I am now going to go through all your vids to see what else I can gleen at the ripe old age of 75! btw jus ordered some Chinesium nickel from the usual reprobates in the sub continent, and a mixer ma toatsies Rabbit stirrer from Mr bezos himself! Ta fella!
Wouldn't it be possible to put more anodes (around the beaker-instead of a large one) in order to mitigate shadows - with the part in the middle?
that would definiately work - keeping the solution moving would also assist.
More good fun for the diy inclined :). I'm envious of your workshop.
Thanks for the time stamps
I imagine you could reduce the risk of shadows (especially when plating complex geometries) by using more than one anode placed around the rim of your electroplating bath, so that all parts of it are "illuminated" equally
I would imagine so
Rely ferfect and decent way to explane......
Best tutorial I've seen, thanks
could you make a ring anode, that would be the same diameter as a glass beaker, would that kind of an anode prevent shadowing?
He could use multiple rods with 3D printed holders just like the one he uses, and connect them all with copper wire. It would allow customizable configurations for more complex parts and would be easy to do.
I used a car battery and the thin strips of nickel to make the solution. I have a charger for the car battery but its one of those roll around kind and takes up a lot of room at the bench, so the battery is easier for me.
Stripped a old charging wire to hang things from and used a paper coffee filter for the bits.
I think in total I spent something like $15 for the vinegar and strips to make the solution.
For the container I just used the plastic vinegar jug. Cut a slit in the bottom side and put one strip in it. Filled with hit glue to seal it.
In the top side I made a window for a nickel strip mesh I made and lowered it in.
The battery connections hold nicely because one can rest on the bottom of a bowl I put the jug in (just in case) and the other clips the plastic and anode up top.
the anode (not the thin nickel anodes), the round one that you used when you started electroplating. The one that looked like it was ade to hang on the lip of a beaker. Where can i find those, what is the manufacturer, what material was it made from, and how much are they?
can you use citric acid instead of vinegar?
Very interesting and informative explanation of the process. Well done. Have you tried using citric acid for pickling? I use it for cleaning up small parts after silver soldering to remove residues. Any thoughts please?
Also any tips for 3D prints as a base paint to use?
Thank you sir, this is an excellent tutorial and can't wait to try it myself.
Very Interesteresting. !!
In some case I need to block a certain area in one peace of metal from being plated.
Such as motorbike exhaust pipe, how to do this efficiently?
wounder how 1000V 8A will go (string of solar panels )
Where did you get your anode holder? I have looked all over for them.
You can use the solution many times, how do You determine if solition is still good? Can you mix new solution with old one? Thx
It’s always best practice to keep them separate and not transfer an possible contamination.
I've been using the same solution for months now, by using a nickel anode you are constantly replenishing the nickel, my concentration has gone from "Gatorade to Emerald, and plating time has been cut in half...caution, I plate onto copper, never introduce ANY other metals into your solution because contamination will ruin the batch. Keep a lid on it and it'll last indefinitely.
I have followed the instructions, but when it came to the actual plating bit, all I got was a brownish sludge attached to the cathode ( item being plated). What am I doing wrong?
Does the power supply come with the cables?
a magnetic stirer may be useful?
If I wanted to protect something very well do I do copper nikle then for decorative silver or gold?
Very informative and interesting. I am a hobbyist. I would greately appreciate if you could share how Nickel Foam coating can be done on steel plates? I guess the process would be more or less the same.
Very good tutorial. I notice you use 5% (food grade) vinegar here. Is it better or worse to use a higher concentration? I usually get hold of 35% (meant as cleaner) where I live.
Thanks for the informative video it sorts a lot of potential problems out. I have a question that you may be able to help with. I need to brass plate some small plastic model parts, obviously I need to paint with a conductive coating first. Do I need to copper plate, then nickel plate before I brass plate. Your advice will be appreciated. Thanks, Chris.
I want to plate my exhaust tip I welded, it's a little bulky I'll have to use a plastic bin, would a car battery work for this?
hello will this work for zamak? i have a firearm wich has some parts in zamak such as trigger hammer and other small parts lately I've noticed that those parts have become very dull in color and im wondering if i can plate them in nickel to get that beautiful shine back
What about plastic plating? Do I have to apply a conductive paint to it or there's another method for plasic?
Im trying to coat old bolts have soaked them in vinegar and removed the rust and ultrasonic cleaned them and then picked them but rust appears after would wax n grease remover or methylated spirits instead of distilled water it makes it rust
What the current you need to have it on and for how long.? So my copper piece beed to be shinny for the nickle can be shinny ?
Hi, any idea on how to estimate the amount of materials required for a particular surface area? Or I suppose, how do you know when the plating solution is exhausted?
I've never added salt to my solution. What I do use is canning vinegar or the 5% acetic acid. It seems to start plating nickel almost immediately without turning the blueish green color. Using 5 volts and polishing the parts to a mirror finish beforehand leads to the best results, don't forget to degrease the part before dropping into solution.
Are there alternatives to the HCL acid, like acetone etc. for cleaning? I am just uncomfortable with keeping strong acid around. Thank you for the video!
Acetone is good for cleaning oils, grease, and dirt, but you need an acid to remove oxidation. You could consider citric acid if you want something more gentle to activate your surface.
i have made 2 nickle solutions seperatly Yet both have come out beetrooty colour def not green everyone has? using vinegar and salt as shown. is it perhaps volt/amps too high /low, i,m using a fully adjustable unit thanks for your input , Al
I made a batch of about 1 gallon of nickle solution but it's not working so good, seems like it won't coat the bolts..I've tried different voltage, acid bath parts..but doesn't seem to transfer to the parts,,any advice on what to check?
What happens if there is paint on the surface of the metal to be plated.
Super quality presentation of a fascinating subject !
What is the chance of heavily zinc plating the underside of a new lawn mower deck?
Whoa! Did you manage that? One comment mentioned “brush plating.” I know nothing but would love to hear what you found out about that. I presume that you would need to remove all prior rust first.
What is added to make the nickel plating bright?
Nice video !!! Some years back I nickel plated some Pennie’s do you by chance know how to reverse the effect any info will be much appreciated
25:01 Small Correction: Stainless steel must be Nickel plated prior to Copper plating - contrary to what you said.
This is because iron (steel) and copper are quite far away on the reactivity series. Thus Nickel plating is used as an intermediary step.
So I'm thinking of doing this for some older game consoles so as that their stock aluminum cooling blocks can use liquid metal to interface with the IHS. Will this nickel plating process work with aluminum heat sinks?
I really want to do this to the drinking water faucet I have to match my polished nickel plated kitchen faucet, but I'm super worried this isn't going to work because I am having a hard figuring out the interior of this faucet since it has a TDS display screen in the body of th faucet. Hoping someone else here has done something similar.
I like that chill music
Thank you for the knowledge that is shared and I hope you are always healthy and always successful
What if you put in an aquarium bubbler to agitate the fluid?
best video about plating thank you
Great video, very thorough.
Would this work for silver plating?
And how would you go about only plating part of it, for example if you had a bronze skull with horns and you only wanted to plate the horns is there something you can use to prevent the rest of it from plating?
Just mask off parts you do not want plated. Either keep only the horns in the plating solution, or simply mask them off with say a coat of something like plasti dip or even spray paint.
instead of buying nickel anodes can I use metal that is already coated?
Couldn't you use multiple anodes to come at the part from all sides?
great vid, just to point out at 25:13 you misspoke and just got the order backwards. To coat stainless steel in copper you must first plate it in nickel. Copper will not adhere to stainless steel without the base coat of nickel not the other way around
i've been wondering about this is it fairly expensive?
Nope, the biggest expense by far is a DC power supply if you want full control, everything else is very affordable. Even then, you can use an old phone charger much of the time as they operate usually within 5V. Best bit is once you've made the electrolyte, you can keep it around and plate at will.
bit-tech thanks i'll give it a go for sure just got a DC power supply
Hi, question, can I use acetone and a ultra sonic cleaner? I don't have access to the acid