Just found your channel bloke, great to see an Aussie with such depth of knowledge. Will be following your progress, motor looks like it’s going to go hard
Hi. Some question to you regarding the ARP 2000 studs: - What is the total length of the stud ? - How long is the M11x1.5 treads (block end)? - How long is the 7/16" treads ( nut end) ?
You’re doing exactly what I’m doing. Filled my block drilled it all off that. I’m nervous with drilling the head and it being 100% centered. I don’t want to lift my head. Can you help?
I presume you are referring to the holes for the NS300L inserts. That kit comes with a locating dowel to centre the drilling guide over the existing hole. Shown about 1min40sec in this video. ua-cam.com/video/NHy07sjwnCg/v-deo.htmlsi=ZTNMVGkEpNLls26a
@@MicahDornbusch ok, I cover the head drilling part about 34 mins into that same video (to centre the 11mm hole drilled in the head). Then the M11 corner studs is going to centre the head on the block. ua-cam.com/video/NHy07sjwnCg/v-deo.htmlsi=xaYhShFZyOSPOsGc
After drilling, cutting, filing and hitting it (leftover piece) I have no concerns about the strength. The current world fastest N54 is an epoxy closed deck (8.16s 1/4 mile).
You guys have dirt cheap machine work available to you. I can't even find a shop to do basic chevy motors. Much less anyone I would trust with a BMW. Especially the ones with coated cylinders like N52. So, I have a couple motors sitting around that I can't do much with.
Which part of the world are you in? I thought the prices I paid in Australia for machine work (decking, facing, honing) was very reasonable, but the US$750 for replacing valve guides and cutting seats seemed less reasonable (but still acceptable).
You’re absolutely right about you paying top dollar for the valve cover. They all come from the Same manufacturer. But dude cmon stop being dramatic about the valve cover, like come on man you’re complaining about small ass nipples/dots that don’t affect the performance of the valve cover what so ever lol. I personally would recommend these over the OEM plastic ones. There’s many pros when it comes to running an aluminum valve cover. These are best for top mount single turbo guys. valve cover won’t warp, and since it’s aluminum you can paint/powder coat it any color to your liking! I’ve personally installed 15+ of these and haven’t had 1 issue/complaint. Just use a OEM valve cover gasket.
@@ST.G8x interesting. ECS agreed that the quality didn’t meet their standards and gave me a full refund and let me keep the VC - it’s still in its box on the shelf. There was metal flakes and swarf coming off it everywhere, and it was severely warped. I agree that top mount ST guys need an aluminium cover but that’s not me.
@@DarkePeak maybe you got a bad one, but like i said I’ve installed a lot of these and also has sold a lot. Not 1 issue or complaint. I’ve heard some people complaining about them being warped. But in reality they just didn’t bolt it down correctly. With these valve cover you have to go in a star pattern and go over them 3 times, also I wouldn’t use those plastic shims they come with for the bolts.
Just found your channel bloke, great to see an Aussie with such depth of knowledge. Will be following your progress, motor looks like it’s going to go hard
Thanks 👍
Great video of the build , inspiration for me to get back into mine! Thanks!
Thanks, what are your build plans?
Awesome video Mark 👍
Heck ya mark!
Hi. Some question to you regarding the ARP 2000 studs:
- What is the total length of the stud ?
- How long is the M11x1.5 treads (block end)?
- How long is the 7/16" treads ( nut end) ?
I will take a measurement for you on the weekend
Total length 152mm
M11 thread: 36mm
7/16 thread: 24mm
@@DarkePeak Thank you, it looks like the ARP stud used
is ATP5.975-2B (Total length: 151.765 mm)
Hmmm, an alternative might be ARP ATP5.950-2LUB (Total length: 151.130 mm),
this also have longer threads.
You’re doing exactly what I’m doing. Filled my block drilled it all off that. I’m nervous with drilling the head and it being 100% centered. I don’t want to lift my head. Can you help?
I presume you are referring to the holes for the NS300L inserts. That kit comes with a locating dowel to centre the drilling guide over the existing hole. Shown about 1min40sec in this video. ua-cam.com/video/NHy07sjwnCg/v-deo.htmlsi=ZTNMVGkEpNLls26a
I already drilled and put the inserts in. I’m talking about drilling the head and keeping g the head centered on the block
@@MicahDornbusch ok, I cover the head drilling part about 34 mins into that same video (to centre the 11mm hole drilled in the head). Then the M11 corner studs is going to centre the head on the block.
ua-cam.com/video/NHy07sjwnCg/v-deo.htmlsi=xaYhShFZyOSPOsGc
Nice build t what compression are you running ?
@@avimedina6562 about 10.1:1. The Mahle 10.2:1 pistons presume you take a lot off the deck/head.
how strong is the epoxy? im deciding between this type of epoxy or the defcon aluminum paste
After drilling, cutting, filing and hitting it (leftover piece) I have no concerns about the strength. The current world fastest N54 is an epoxy closed deck (8.16s 1/4 mile).
@@DarkePeak thanks for the info, this epoxy is def more user-friendly than aluminium paste
You guys have dirt cheap machine work available to you. I can't even find a shop to do basic chevy motors. Much less anyone I would trust with a BMW. Especially the ones with coated cylinders like N52. So, I have a couple motors sitting around that I can't do much with.
Which part of the world are you in? I thought the prices I paid in Australia for machine work (decking, facing, honing) was very reasonable, but the US$750 for replacing valve guides and cutting seats seemed less reasonable (but still acceptable).
You’re absolutely right about you paying top dollar for the valve cover. They all come from the Same manufacturer. But dude cmon stop being dramatic about the valve cover, like come on man you’re complaining about small ass nipples/dots that don’t affect the performance of the valve cover what so ever lol. I personally would recommend these over the OEM plastic ones. There’s many pros when it comes to running an aluminum valve cover. These are best for top mount single turbo guys. valve cover won’t warp, and since it’s aluminum you can paint/powder coat it any color to your liking! I’ve personally installed 15+ of these and haven’t had 1 issue/complaint. Just use a OEM valve cover gasket.
@@ST.G8x interesting. ECS agreed that the quality didn’t meet their standards and gave me a full refund and let me keep the VC - it’s still in its box on the shelf. There was metal flakes and swarf coming off it everywhere, and it was severely warped. I agree that top mount ST guys need an aluminium cover but that’s not me.
@@DarkePeak maybe you got a bad one, but like i said I’ve installed a lot of these and also has sold a lot. Not 1 issue or complaint. I’ve heard some people complaining about them being warped. But in reality they just didn’t bolt it down correctly. With these valve cover you have to go in a star pattern and go over them 3 times, also I wouldn’t use those plastic shims they come with for the bolts.
Just casually picking up main bearings in Israel 🤣
Haha. Yes, just 3 days after Iran fired 300 drones and missiles.