Hey Mark Heyward. Thanks for your in depth review! We found it interesting as well how it had the tendency to dull out drill bits and saws quicker than aluminum itself. Our epoxy itself does expand at the same rate as aluminum, and while this held true and accurate, we both observed is that it does have the tendency to fall on its face at temperatures >150c. That being said, if your engines getting that hot, you have bigger issues ;). Even after these intense heat cycles, it does return back to its initial state, retaining original compressive strength properties. Typical use at 100c will be no issues at all. All in all, great job with the review. Looking forward to seeing how it does in your engine, as well as the other reviews/tutorials as mentioned at the end of your video!
I'm wondering how to make such a epoxy in my country which we can't easily buy such a thing from you guys, is there any help to make such a thing for my engine? formula or sth can ending up in such a thing? (no offense but in Iran there's impossible to find such a thing or even ordering it)
I've use Devcon Liquid Metal products with similar success. Currently have over 10 years on my built RB block running around 800whp. They do products for steel and aluminium to match the thermal expansion coefficient of the block your using it in. These metal resins use low thermal expansion aggregate suspension in the resin to reduce its expansion rate to match the block. So they contain silicon, titanium etc. Which is why they kill your drill bits.
to make that even stronger you add metal filings mixed with the epoxy, have the ration 80% metal and 20% epoxy use brake disc machine fillings, just go to any mechanic that resurfaces discs and he'll have heaps and it's free get the fillings that using a bucket and sopie water degrease the filings this will make everything way stronger than epoxy alone-that epoxy can get soft when hot, with metal it won't
@@GTRliffe my coolant temps haven’t exceeded 100C on the track or 106C in traffic jam on a warm day, so I doubt the epoxy is getting soft. Anyway, I doubt metal filings would change the hardness/consistency of the epoxy since it’s not chemically reacting with it. Products like fibreglass get tensile strength from the fibres but that is no benefit for compressive type of forces that the epoxy in the block needs to withstand.
Whats the temperature coefficient on that particular epoxy ? I would live in fear not knowing wether the bores are getting ovaled by the epoxy pressing on it.
@@DarkePeakno need. This epoxy actually is Nordbak Loctite. It’s for backing machinery. It enters a glass transition phase and softens at the temps your coolant sees. So this one works well in aluminum. There are a few others used in aluminum but I haven’t figured out the “high end” one. I did use this stuff in my sleeved block
@@DarkePeakalso it’s good that this one is softened. You don’t want some epoxy that’s hard and rigid. If the epoxy doesn’t expand as fast as the aluminum (which is not easy to find), then the aluminum would crack and break. That’s what happens when you concrete fill an aluminum block. Instead softening helps to support the aluminum, and importantly helps with vibration. It’s the vibration that kills the more open deck modern aluminum blocks. Even if you welded a block solid, you can get cracking just from residual stress. So you want the epoxy to play nice with the aluminum, while supporting it
What you saw it being harder to break when you boiled it and it was still hot, is just as you said it became tougher. Counter intuitively, toughness comes from a softened core in metals for example. It just allows the material to take more stress before breaking
Hey Mark Heyward. Thanks for your in depth review! We found it interesting as well how it had the tendency to dull out drill bits and saws quicker than aluminum itself.
Our epoxy itself does expand at the same rate as aluminum, and while this held true and accurate, we both observed is that it does have the tendency to fall on its face at temperatures >150c. That being said, if your engines getting that hot, you have bigger issues ;). Even after these intense heat cycles, it does return back to its initial state, retaining original compressive strength properties. Typical use at 100c will be no issues at all.
All in all, great job with the review. Looking forward to seeing how it does in your engine, as well as the other reviews/tutorials as mentioned at the end of your video!
do you have data on the strength at 100°C?
@@AKAtheA100c is well within operating temperature of the epoxy
@@GarianWraps what I was asking was more about how much support does the epoxy actually provide
@@AKAtheAup to 20,000psi
I'm wondering how to make such a epoxy in my country which we can't easily buy such a thing from you guys, is there any help to make such a thing for my engine? formula or sth can ending up in such a thing? (no offense but in Iran there's impossible to find such a thing or even ordering it)
I've use Devcon Liquid Metal products with similar success. Currently have over 10 years on my built RB block running around 800whp. They do products for steel and aluminium to match the thermal expansion coefficient of the block your using it in.
These metal resins use low thermal expansion aggregate suspension in the resin to reduce its expansion rate to match the block. So they contain silicon, titanium etc. Which is why they kill your drill bits.
to make that even stronger you add metal filings mixed with the epoxy, have the ration 80% metal and 20% epoxy
use brake disc machine fillings, just go to any mechanic that resurfaces discs and he'll have heaps and it's free
get the fillings that using a bucket and sopie water degrease the filings
this will make everything way stronger than epoxy alone-that epoxy can get soft when hot, with metal it won't
@@GTRliffe my coolant temps haven’t exceeded 100C on the track or 106C in traffic jam on a warm day, so I doubt the epoxy is getting soft. Anyway, I doubt metal filings would change the hardness/consistency of the epoxy since it’s not chemically reacting with it. Products like fibreglass get tensile strength from the fibres but that is no benefit for compressive type of forces that the epoxy in the block needs to withstand.
Good vid found helpfull only thing is didnt show expansion rates for tepms
Most of the epoxy has a glass transition temperature between 80-105 celsius.
Whats the temperature coefficient on that particular epoxy ?
I would live in fear not knowing wether the bores are getting ovaled by the epoxy pressing on it.
There's a comment from the seller that offers some insight. Should be the first comment.
Send me some samples and I will compression test them in our test machine up to 100kN in Melbourne
Wow! That’d be great. Please send me an email with your contact details so we can discuss: in54ne.aus@gmail.com
@@DarkePeakno need. This epoxy actually is Nordbak Loctite. It’s for backing machinery.
It enters a glass transition phase and softens at the temps your coolant sees.
So this one works well in aluminum.
There are a few others used in aluminum but I haven’t figured out the “high end” one. I did use this stuff in my sleeved block
@@DarkePeakalso it’s good that this one is softened. You don’t want some epoxy that’s hard and rigid. If the epoxy doesn’t expand as fast as the aluminum (which is not easy to find), then the aluminum would crack and break. That’s what happens when you concrete fill an aluminum block.
Instead softening helps to support the aluminum, and importantly helps with vibration. It’s the vibration that kills the more open deck modern aluminum blocks.
Even if you welded a block solid, you can get cracking just from residual stress. So you want the epoxy to play nice with the aluminum, while supporting it
What you saw it being harder to break when you boiled it and it was still hot, is just as you said it became tougher. Counter intuitively, toughness comes from a softened core in metals for example. It just allows the material to take more stress before breaking
Devcon works great !
Its called a exothermic reaction 😮😊 it creates its own heat just like fiberglass an polyurethanes all are exothermic resins 😮😅